CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1978

The Fiftieth Annual General Meeting was held on 20 December 1978 at Scindia House, Ballard Estate, Bombay 400038. The following names were proposed and elected at the meeting:

OFFICERS
President A. D. Moddie
Vice-Presidents N. D. Jayal
R. E. Hawkins
K. K. Guha
Honorary Treasurer A. B. Ghoshal
Honorary Secretary J. C. Nanavati
Honorary Local Secretaries
Nepal M. J. Cheney
India :
Almora N. B. Parekh
Calcutta Nitai Ray
Darjeeling E. D. Avari
Delhi Sudhir Sahi
Kulu John Banon
Pakistan Col. E. Goodwin
Australia& New Zealand W.M.M. Deacock
Austria DrA. Diemberger
Czechoslovakia V. Smida
Great Britain V.S.Risoe, M.B.E.
Japan Y. Mita
Italy Prof. Ardito Desio
Spain Jose Paytubi
Switzerland E. A. Bolinder
West Germany Hans-Dieter Greul
U.S.A. : East A. J. Kauffman
Mid-West A. D. Black
West Nicholas Clinch
Members of Committee
F. C. Badhwar, O.B.E. Dr P. A. Naik
J. T. M. Gibson, O.B.E. K. N. Naoroji
Harish Kapadia G. Ramchandani
Capt. M. S. Kohli, I.N.,A.V.S.M. P. A. Shah
M. H. Mehta Cdr. Joginder Singh
Additional Members of Balloting Committee

R. E. Hotz

Dr H. V. R. lengar

Prof. C. K. Mitra

Other Appointments

Hon. Editor .. . . S. S. Mehta

Hon. Asstt. Editors .. .. R. E. Hawkins

Harish Kapadia

Hon. Librarian .. .. S. Sahi

Hon. Equipment Officers .. .. Hon. Secretary at Bombay and Hon. Local Secretaries at Calcutta and Delhi

It is with deep regret that we record the death of the following members :

Mr C. R. Agar (L. 1937)

Mr E. V. B. Britter (L. 1950)

Mr J. W. Green (O. 1951)

Edward M. Groth (O. 1935)

Maj. K. C. Hadow (L. 1929, O.M.C. 1927)

Mr. B. N. Tattersall (O. 1952)

Donation

The total expenditure on the Golden Jubilee Celebrations at Bombay, Calcutta and Delhi amounted to Rs. 31,251. The Club is grateful to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation for granting a donation of Rs. 7,500 towards the Jubilee expenditure. The sale of photographs at Bombay exhibition brought Rs. 4,305 leaving net outgoings on account of Jubilee expenditure Rs. 19,446.

Grindlays Bank Mountain Scholarship

Through the good offices of our Committee Member, M. H. Mehta, an appeal was made to Mr K. Warner, Regional Director*, South Asia, Grindlays Bank Ltd, for constituting a scholarship to deserving young persons for training in mountaineering in India. The Grindlays Bank Ltd have accordingly donated Rs. 50,000, the investment income from which will be utilized for granting 'Grindlays Bank Mountain Scholarships'. Detailed rules concerning the said scholarship schemo have been formulated, the salient features being -

The Scholarships will be awarded :

(a) for the purpose of training at any recognized mountaineering institute in India ;

(b) to give assistance to individuals for exploration, study (ecological, zoological, botanical, geological or sociological) or climbing in the Himalaya and adjoining mountain ranges.

The scholarships will be open to deserving persons between the ages of 18 and .45 years. In accordance with the current Foreign Exchange regulation, a 'Scholarship' can be awarded only to Indian Nationals resident in India.

Income-tax Exemption

In addition to the exemption under Section 80G of the Income- tax Act, the Club has secured an exemption under Section 10 (23). Thus, all income of the Club will be exempt from tax as the Club has been approved by the Government of India as an organization promoting an approved sport.

Sectional Activities

Golden Jubilee celebrations at Bombay, Calcutta, Delhi and London are reported in Vol. XXXV. Other activities for the year are mentioned below r

Bombay

27 July : Harish Kapadia showed slides covering Passes, Places and People, during his 375 kilometre trek in North-East Nepal during May 1978. The trek covered the 'Sherpa Trail' from Kathmandu to Solu Khumbu and to Darjeeling.

10 August : Prof. A. R. Chandekar gave a slide-illustrated talk on 1978 Jogin III expedition which climbed the 20,065 ft peak.

28 August : With the kind courtesy of the British Council, the

film 'Everest the Hard Way' was screened. The film depicts Chris Bonington's successful expedition in 1975.

18 September : Mrs Leela Dayal exhibited objects of art and craft to show the affinity between the art and culture of South East Asia and the Himalayan region. The exhibition remained open for two days. It was held under joint auspices with the Row Dayal Trust.

20 December: J. C. Nanavati showed slides of the successful 1966 Indo-British expedition to Hanuman Tibba.

Delhi
21 May : A reception was held at the Austrian Embassy to felicitate Reinhold Messner and Peter Habler who were returning after climbing Everest without oxygen.

3 June : Lute Jerstad spoke on 'Upper Ganges Boat Expedition 1977' accompanied by slides. The expedition came down in rubber boats from Alaknanda through Chamoli to Deo Prayag.

CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1979
The Fifty-first Annual General Meeting was held on 15 February 1980, at Scindia House, Ballard Estate, Bombay 400 038. The following names were proposed and elected at the meeting :

OFFICERS

President A. D. Moddie

Vice-Presidents N. D. Jayal

R. E. Hawkins

K. K. Guha

Honorary Treasurer A. B. Ghoshal

Honorary Secretary J. C. Nanavati

Honorary Local Secretaries

Nepal M. J. Cheney

India :

Bombay Vivek Matthai

Calcutta Nitai Ray

Delhi Sudhir Sahi

Garhwal Lt. Col. B. S. Sandhu

Kulu John Banon

Kumaon N. B. Parekh

Kashmir Sat Paul Sahni

Sikkim E. D. Avari

Pakistan Col. E. Goodwin

Australia & New Zealand Maj. W. M. M. Deacock

Austria Dr A. Diemberger

Czechoslovakia V. Smida

Great Britain V. S. Risoe, M.B.E.

Japan Y. Mita

Italy Prof. Ardito Desio

Spain Jose Paytubi

Switzerland E. A. Bolinder

West Germany Hans-Dieter Greul

UA.S. : East A. J. Kauffman

West Nicholas Clinch

Members of Committee


F. C. Badhwar, O.B.E. S. P. Mahadevia

C. D. Danthi M. H. Mehta

J. T. M. Gibson, O.B.E. K. N. Naoroji

Harish Kapadia P. A. Shah

Capt. M. S. Kohli, I.N., AVSM Cdr. Joginder Singh

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

R. E. Hotz

Dr H. V. R. Iengar

Prof. C. K. Mitra


Other Appointments


Hon. Editor Harish Kapadia

Hon. Asst. Editor R. E. Hawkins

Hon. Librarian S. Sahi

Hon. Equipment Officer C. D. Danthi

Hon. Asst. Equipment Officers Nitai Ray, Calcutta

Sudhir Sahi, Delhi

It is with deep regret that we record the death of the following members :

Sir Percy Wyn-Harris, K.C.M.G., M.B.E (L. 1972)

Rev. L. C. J. Moules (O. 1945)

Maj. R. H. Sams, R.E. (L. 1934)

H. W. Tilman (H. 1934)

Thrity Birdy (O. 1974)

Dr W. G. Archer, O.B.E. (L, 1939)

Rohini Bhuyan (O. 1969)

Hon. Membership
Trevor Braham was elected as Honorary Member of the Club in May 1979. Mr Braham was Hon. Secretary of the Club during the years 1950-55 and served on the Committee in 1956 and again, from 1967 to 1974. He was also Hon. Librarian in 1957 and Hon. Editor of the Himalayan Journal during 1957-59. He served as Vice President of the Club from 1959 to 1965. After leaving India, Mr Braham continues his keen interest in the well being of the Himalayan Club which he has served in various capacities for nearly a quarter century.

Club Sponsorship
The Himalayan Club is sponsoring an expedition to Satopanth Glacier for an attempt of Pt 20,587' ('Parvati Parbat') in Garhwal. This is the first expedition to be sponsored by the Club. It is hoped that the Club would provide a base for many such sponsored expeditions to encourage young members in their effort to organize expeditions. Through the sponsorships, the Club provides a recognition to the expeditions which enable them to approach various authorities for necessary permission and other assistance.

Himalayan Journal Vol. 1-15 : Reprints

The reprints of Volumes 1 to 15 are now published by M/s Maruzen Co. Ltd, Tokyo. The printed price of the full set is indicated as 85,000 yen. Members of the Himalayan Club are entitled to a 10% discount on the printed price upon certification of their membership by the Hon. Secretary.

SECTIONAL ACTIVITIES

Bombay
28 February : Dr Pratap V. Katrecha gave a slide-show on 'Landscape and People of Ladakh'.

7 June : Sundarlal Bahuguna spoke on the 'Chipko' movement in Garhwal and Kumaon for the preservation of forests in the Himalayan region.

3 August : Members were invited by 'The Mountaineers' to a slide-show and talk by Harish Kapadia on the Kalabaland Expedition which climbed Chiring We and three other peaks in Kumaon.

24 October : Mahesh Desai gave an account of the North Nanda Devi Sanctuary Expedition, 1979 which attempted Bamchu. The talk was accompanied by extensive slides covering the whole of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary taken from his previous expeditions also.

12 November : Our Honorary Member Trevor Braham spoke to the members on present trends in mountaineering.

Calcutta
Three meetings were arranged during the year as under :-

1. Slide-show in Bhutan Himalaya by Mrs Kamala Mukherjee.

2. Slide-show on Milam Glacier by Deb Kumar Banerjee.

3. Film on Nanga Parbat (Czech) Expedition by the leader, Ivan Galfy.

Delhi
31 January : Two films were screened on 'Mountaineering Training in Austria' and 'Upper Ganges Expedition'.

25 February: Heinrich Harrer spoke on Eiger, Nanga Parbat and Tibet.

11 April: Two films were screened. 'A Hard Course' on Outward Bound School, U.K. and 'The Hardest Way Up' on ascent of Annapurna South Face, 1970.

24 April : Film 'Everest The Hard Way was screened depicting British ascent of Everest via SW. Face. 27 April: Franz Forster-Steinberg showed slides on Kangtega area, East Nepal.

10 May : Lt. Col. Baljit Singh gave an illustrated talk on 'Short

Walks in the Himalaya'.

1 June : Joe Tasker and Georges Bettembourg, spoke on alpine- style ascent of Kangchenjunga.

16 October : Naomi Uemura spoke on his solo journey to North Pole and showed a film on the same.

7 November : Doug Scott showed slides on Kangchenjunga ascent.

London Reunion

The Annual Reunion was held on 27 April at the Oriental Club in London and was attended by 42 members and guests. Alex Mclntyre gave a talk entitled 'An Alpinist in the Himalaya' and described the ascent of the South buttress of Changabang by a four-man Anglo-Polish expedition. The talk was illustrated by some very fine slides. The talk was followed by a dinner with Robert Pettigrew in the Chair.

CORRECTIONS, VOL. XXXV

p. 12 - Line 31, read 'Schneider' instead of 'Schemeider

p. 23 - Line 18, read 'Wiessner' instead of 'Meissner'.

Illustration No. 51 should read 'Tirsuli from Camp 2'.

p. 210 - Author wishes to acknowledge the help of following persons in his survey. C. L. Sah Thulgaria, Anup Sah, Lt Col J. C. Joshi, Dr P. N. V. Kurup, Dr L. D. Kapoor and Dr T. N. Khoshoo.

p. 237 - Line 3, add name of Mukund Bhagwat.

CORRECTIONS VOLUME 36

p. 137 - Line 21, read 'Savoia' instead of 'Savoir'.

Printed in India by P. P. Bhagwat at Mouj Printing Bureau, Khatau Wadi, Bombay 400 004 and published by J. C. Nanavati for the Himalayan Club at P.O. Box 1905, Bombay 400 001.