(All ascents by South Col and SE ridge unless otherwise stated)
1. | 1953 | May 29 | E. P. Hillary, Tenzing Norkay. British expedition. |
2. | 1956 | May 23 May 24 |
Swiss expedition. J. Marmet, E. Schmied. A. Reist, H. R. von Gunten. |
3. | 1963 | May 1 May 22 May 22 |
American expedition. J. Whittaker, Nawang Gombu. B. Bishop, L. Jerstad. T. Hornbein, W. Unsoeld by W ridge; 1st traverse and 1st traverse of an 8000-er. |
4. | 1965 | May 20 May 22 May 24 May 29 |
Indian expedition. A. S. Cheema, Nawang Gombu. Sonam Gyatso, Sonam Wangyal. C. P. Vohra, Ang Kami. H. S. Ahluwalia, H. C. S. Rawat, Phu Dorje. |
5. | 1970 | May 11 May 12 |
Japanese expedition. T. Matsuura, N. Uemura. K.Hirabayashi,Sherpa Chotare. |
6. | 1973 | May 5 May 7 |
Italian expedition. R. Carrel, M. Minuzzo, Lapka Tenzing, C. Benedetti, V. Epis, F. Innamorati, Sonam Gyaltzen |
7. | 1973 | Oct. 26 | Japanese expedition. H. Ishiguro, Y. Kato. 1st post-monsoon ascent. |
8. | 1975 | May 16 | Japanese women's expedition. J. Tabei, Ang Tsering. 1st ascent by a woman. |
9. | 1975 | May 27 | Chinese expedition. Darphuntso, Hgapo Khyen, Hou Sheng-fu, Kung Pasang, Lotse, (Mrs.) Phanthongg Samdrup, Sodnam Norbu, Tsering Tob- gyai. 1st ascent from the North (Tibet) via N col and NE ridge. |
10. | 1975 | Sept. 24 Sept. 26 |
British expedition. D. Haston, D. Scott. 1st ascent by SW face. P. Boardman, Pertemba. by SW face. |
11. | 1976 | May 16 | British Army expedition. M. P. Lane, J. H. Stokes |
12. | 1976 | Oct. 7 | American expedition. |
13. | 1977 | Sept. 15 | South Korean expedition. Ko Sang Don, Pemba Norbu. |
14. | 1978 | May 3 May 8 May 11 May 14 |
Austrian expedition. H. Bergman, W. Nairz, R. Schauer, Ang Phu. P. Habeler, R. Messner. 1st ascent without oxygen. O. Oelz, K. Reinhardt. F. Oppurg. |
15. | 1978 | Oct. 14 Oct. 16 Oct. 17 |
German expedition. H. Engl, H. Hillmaier, J. Mack. R. Allenbach, S. Hupfauer, W. Klimek, W. Rutkiewicz, Ang Kami, Ang Dorje, Mingma Tsering. B. Kullmann, G. Ritter. |
16. | 1978 | Oct. 15 | French expedition. J. Afanassieff, K. Diemberger, N. Jaeger P. Mazeaud. |
17. | 1979 | May 13 May 15 |
Yugoslav expedition. A. Stremfelj, J. Zaplotnik. from Lho La via W shoulder and W ridge. S. Belak, S. Bozic, Ang Phu. |
18. | 1979 | Oct. 1 Oct. 2 |
West German expedition. H. von Kanel, G. Schmatz, H. Warth, Pertemba, Lakpa Gyalsen. N. Banks, T. Fischbach, R. Genet,G. Kampfe. (Frau) H. Schmatz, Ang Jambu, Ang Phurba, Sundare. |
C. Chandler, B. Cormack.
1. | 1954 | July 31 | Italian expedition. A. Compagnoni, L. Lacedelli. by SE (Abruzzi) ridge. |
2. | 1977 | Aug. 8 Aug. 9 |
Japanese expedition. S. Shigehiro, T. Shigehiro, T. Takatsuka. by Italian route. M. Hiroshima, M. Onodera, Y. Yamamoto, Ashraf Aman. |
3. | 1978 | Sept. 7 Sept. 8 |
American expedition. L. Reichardt, J. Wickwire. by NE ridge and E face; without oxygen. R. Ridgeway, J. Roskelley. |
4. | 1979 | July 12 | Tyrolese-German expedition M. Dacher, R. Messener.by Italian route; without oxyzen. |
70. Mulkila massif from the glacier. Mulkila IV and V on the extreme left. American expedition led by Del Young. Illustrated Note 10.
71. Mulkila IV (left) and V from Camp 1. Camp 2 was at the base of bergschurnd under N face of Mulkila V. Highest point reached 19,500 ft. Illustrated Note 10.
1. | 1955 | May 25 May 26 |
British expedition. G. C. Band, J. Brown, from the SW. N. Hardie, H. R. A. Streather. |
2. | 1977 | May 31 | Indian expedition. Major Premchand, Nima Dorji. by NE spur and N ridge. |
3. | 1979 | May 16 | British expedition. P. Boardman, D. K. Scott, J. Tasker. from the NW to N Col, thence by N ridge; without oxygen. |
1. | 1956 | May 18 | Swiss expedition. F. Luchsinger, E. Reiss. by NW face. |
2. | 1977 | May 8 May 9 May 11 |
German expedition. H. von Kanel, H. Warth, Urkien Tsering. by NW face direct. G. Sturm, P. Vogler, F. Zintl. M. Dacher, M. Lutz, P. Worgotter, W. Worgotter. |
3. | 1979 | May 5 May 10 |
Austrian expedition. W. Axt, H. Ladreiter. B. Klausbruckner, I. Exnar by Swiss route. |
4. | 1979 | Oct. 7 Oct. 8 Oct. 9 |
Polish expedition. A. Heinrich, J. Kukucza. by Swiss route, without oxygen. A. Czok, J. Skorek J. Baranek, A. Bilczewski, S. Cholewa, R. Niklas. |
1. | 1955 | May 15 May 16 May 17 |
French expedition. J. Couzy, L. Terray. by N face. J. Franco, G. Magnone, Gyalzen Norbu. J. Bouvier, S. Coupe, P. Leroux, A. Vialatte. |
2. | 1970 | May 23 | Japanese expedition. Y. Ozaki, H. Tanaka by SE ridge. |
3. | 1971 | May 23 | French expedition. B. Mellet, Y. Seigneur, by W pillar. |
4. | 1975 | Oct. 6 Oct. 8 Oct. 10 Oct. 11 |
Yugoslav expedition. S. Belak, M. Manfreda. by S face. J. Azman, N. Zaplotnik V. Groselj, I. Kotnik. J. Dovzam. |
5. | 1976 | May 24 | Czechoslovak expedition. M. Krissak, K. Schubert, J. Camprubi1 by SW pillar. |
6. | 1978 | May 1 May 10 May 21 |
International expedition H. Warth, Ang Chepal. by French route. H. von Kanel, K. Landvogt, Ang Temba. K. Diemberger, Nawang Tenzing. |
(First four and seventh ascents by NE Col and NE spur)
1. | 1960 | May 13 May 23 |
Swiss (international) expedition. K. Diemberger, P. Diener, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert, Nima Dorje, Nawang Dorje. M. Vaucher, H. Weber. |
2. | 1970 | Oct. 20 | Japanese expedition. T. Kawada, Lhakpa Tenzing. |
3. | 1973 | May 12 | American expedition. L. Reichardt, J. Roskelley, Nawang Samden. |
4. | 1976 | May 4 | Italian expedition. S. Simoni, G. Zortea. |
5. | 1978 | May 10 May 11 |
Japanese expedition. T. Kobayashi, T. Shigeno. by left hand pillar of S face. Y. Kato, S. Shimizu, H. Yoshino, Ang Kami. by Central pillar of S face. |
6. | 1978 | Oct. 19 Oct. 20 |
Japanese expedition. T. Miyazaki, H. Tani, A. ITbe. by S face and SE ridge. S. Suzuki, N. Yamada, Nawang Yonden. |
7. | 1979 | May 12 | Spanish expedition. I. Aldaya, F. Garayoa, G. Plaza, J. Pons, Ang Rita. |
Footnote
1. | 1956 | May 9 May 11 |
Japanese expedition. T. Imanishi, Gyalzen Norbu. from the E. M. Higeta, K. Kato. |
2. | 1971 | May 17 | Japanese expedition. K. Kohara, M. Tanaka. by W wall |
3. | 1972 | April 25 | Austrian expedition. R. Messner. by S face. |
4. | 1973 | April 22 | German expedition. S. Hupfauer, G. Schmatz, Urkien Sherpa. by new route on E face. Japanese women's expedition. M. Mori, N. Nakaseko, M. Uchida, Jambu Sherpa. |
6. | 1975 | April 26 | Spanish expedition. G. B. Garcia, J. R. Martinez, Sonam Sherpa. by E ridge. |
7. | 1976 | Oct. 12 | Iranian-Japanese expedition. J. Assadi, J. Kageyama, Pasang. from the E. |
8. | 1974 | May 4 | from the E. First women's ascent of an 8000-er. |
(All ascents by W face)
1. | 1954 | Oct. 19 | Austrian expedition. S. Jochler, H. Tichy, Pasang Dawa Lama. |
2. | 1958 | May 15 | Indian expedition. Pasang Dawa Lama, Sonam Gyaltsen. |
3. | 1964 | April 25 | German expedition. F. Stammberger, P'hu Dorje II |
1. | 1953 | July 3 | Austro-German expedition. H. Buhl. from NE (Rakhiot glacier). |
2. | 1962 | June 22 | German expedition. T. Kinshofer, S. Low, A. Mannhardt. by Diamir face. |
3. | 1970 | June 27 June 28 |
German expedition. G. and R. Messner. 1st traverse; ascent by Rupal faee? descent by Diamir face. G. Messner was killed on the descent. F. Kuen, P. Scholz. by Rupal face. |
4. | 1971 | July 11 | Czechoslovak expedition. I. Fiala, M. Orolin. by Rakhiot glacier. |
5. | 1976 | Aug. 11 | Austrian expedition. S. Gimpel, R. Schauer, H. Schell, H. Sturm. by SW ridge. |
6. | 1978 | Aug. 9 | Italian two-man expedition. R. Messner. by new route on Diamir face. |
7. | 1978 | Aug. 23 Aug. 28 |
Austrian expedition. W. Bauer, R. Streif, R. Wurzer. by Diamir face. A. Imitzer, A. Indrich. |
(All ascents by N face except No. 3)
1. | 1950 | June 3 | French expedition. M. Herzog, L. Lachenal. |
2. | 1970 | May 20 | British-Nepalese expedition. M. W. H. Day, G. F. Owens |
3. | 1970 | May 27 | British expedition. D. Haston, D. Whillans. by S face. |
4. | 1977 | Oct. 13 | Dutch expedition. M. van Rijswick, Sonam Sherpa |
5. | 1978 | Oct. 15 | American women's expeditior I.Miller, V. Komarkova, Chawang Rinzee, Mingma Tsering |
6. | 1979 | April 30 | French expedition. Y. Morin, H. Sigayret. by French route. |
7. | 1979 | May 8 | Japanese expedition. S. Tanaka, Pemba Sherpa. by Dutch route. |
1. | 1958 | July 5 | American Expedition. A. J. Kauffman, P. K. Schoening. by SE spur. |
2. | 1975 | Aug. 10 | Two-man expedition. P. Habeler, R. Messner. by NW face. |
3. | 1975 | Aug. 11 | Austrian expedition R. Schauer, H. Schell, H. Zefferer. by American route. |
4. | 1977 | July 8 | Yugoslav expedition. A. Stremfelj, N. Zaplofiik. by SW ridge. |
1. | 1957 | June 9 | Austrian expedition. M.Schmuck, F.Wintersteller: H. Buhl, K. Diemberger. by W spur and N ridge. |
2. | 1977 | Aug. 8 | Japanese expedition. K. Noro, T. Ozaki, Y. Tsuji. by Austrian route. |
3. | 1978 | June 4 | French expedition. Y. Seigneur. by Austrian route. |
1. | 1964 | May 2 | Chinese expedition. Hsu Ching, Chang Chun-yen, Wang FuChou, Chen San, Wu Tsung-yueh, Cheng Tien-liang, Dorji, Minar Trashi, Sodnam Dorji, Tontan. from the N. |
1. | 1956 | July 7 | Austrian expedition. S. Larch, F. Moravec, H. Willenpart. by SW spur and E ridge. |
2. | 1975 | June 18 | French expedition. M. Batard, Y. Seigneur, by SE spur. |
3. | 1975 | Aug. 1 Aug. 9 Aug. 12 |
Polish expedition. L. Cichy, J. Onyszkiewicz, K. Zdzitowiecki. by SW rib and NW face. M. Jahas, A. Lapinski, W. L. Wozniak., by Austrian route. A.Okopinska,H.K. Syrokomska. by Austrian route. First all-women rope to reach an 8000 m summit. |
4. | 1978 | Aug. 9 | Austro-German expedition. G. Brosig. by Austrian route. |
5. | 1979 | June 9 | Chilean expedition. L. LucerOj G. Oyarzum by Austrian route |
6. | 1979 | July 31 Aug. 4 |
Austro-German expedition. K. Hub, R. Karl, H. Sturm K. Diemberger, W. Loesch, H. Schell,A. Schwab, W. Weitzenboech, H. Fayyaz. |