THE EIGHT-THOUSANDERS

A RECORD OF ASCENTS, 1950-1979

T. H. BRAHAM and D. F. O. DANGAR

  1. MOUNT EVEREST (8848 m — 29,028 ft)
  2. K2 (8610 m — 28,253 ft)
  3. KANGCHENJUNGA (8598 m — 28,208 ft)
  4. LHOTSE (8511 in — 27,923 ft)
  5. MAKALU (8481 m — 27,825 ft)
  6. DHAULAGIRI (8167 m — 26,795 ft)
  7. MANASLU (8156 m — 26,760 ft)
  8. CHO OYU (8153 m — 26,750 ft)
  9. NANGA PARBAT (8125 m — 26,660 ft)
  10. ANNAPURNA I (8091 m — 26,545 ft)
  11. GASHERBRUM I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m — 26,470 ft)
  12. BROAD PEAK (8047 m — 26,400 ft)
  13. SHISHA PANGMA (GOSAINTHAN) (8046 m — 26,398 ft)
  14. GASHERBRUM II (8035 m — 26,360 ft)

 

 

1 MOUNT EVEREST (8848 m — 29,028 ft)

(All ascents by South Col and SE ridge unless otherwise stated)

1. 1953 May 29 E. P. Hillary, Tenzing Norkay.
British expedition.
2. 1956
May 23
May 24
Swiss expedition.
J. Marmet, E. Schmied.
A. Reist, H. R. von Gunten.
3. 1963
May 1
May 22
May 22
American expedition.
J. Whittaker, Nawang Gombu.
B. Bishop, L. Jerstad.
T. Hornbein, W. Unsoeld
by W ridge; 1st traverse and 1st traverse of an 8000-er.
4. 1965
May 20
May 22
May 24
May 29
Indian expedition.
A. S. Cheema, Nawang Gombu. Sonam Gyatso, Sonam Wangyal.
C. P. Vohra, Ang Kami.
H. S. Ahluwalia,
H. C. S. Rawat, Phu Dorje.
5. 1970
May 11
May 12
Japanese expedition.
T. Matsuura, N. Uemura.
K.Hirabayashi,Sherpa Chotare.
6. 1973
May 5
May 7
Italian expedition.
R. Carrel, M. Minuzzo, Lapka Tenzing,
C. Benedetti, V. Epis,
F. Innamorati, Sonam Gyaltzen
7. 1973 Oct. 26 Japanese expedition.
H. Ishiguro, Y. Kato.
1st post-monsoon ascent.
8. 1975 May 16 Japanese women's expedition.
J. Tabei, Ang Tsering.
1st ascent by a woman.
9. 1975 May 27 Chinese expedition.
Darphuntso, Hgapo Khyen, Hou Sheng-fu, Kung Pasang, Lotse, (Mrs.) Phanthongg Samdrup, Sodnam Norbu, Tsering Tob- gyai.
1st ascent from the North (Tibet) via N col and NE ridge.
10. 1975
Sept. 24
Sept. 26
British expedition.
D. Haston, D. Scott.
1st ascent by SW face.
P. Boardman, Pertemba. by SW face.
11. 1976 May 16 British Army expedition.
M. P. Lane, J. H. Stokes
12. 1976 Oct. 7 American expedition.
13. 1977 Sept. 15 South Korean expedition.
Ko Sang Don, Pemba Norbu.
14. 1978
May 3
May 8
May 11
May 14
Austrian expedition.
H. Bergman, W. Nairz, R. Schauer, Ang Phu.
P. Habeler, R. Messner.
1st ascent without oxygen.
O. Oelz, K. Reinhardt.
F. Oppurg.
15. 1978
Oct. 14
Oct. 16
Oct. 17
German expedition.
H. Engl, H. Hillmaier, J. Mack.
R. Allenbach, S. Hupfauer, W. Klimek,
W. Rutkiewicz, Ang Kami, Ang Dorje, Mingma Tsering.
B. Kullmann, G. Ritter.
16. 1978 Oct. 15 French expedition.
J. Afanassieff, K. Diemberger, N. Jaeger P. Mazeaud.
17. 1979
May 13
May 15
Yugoslav expedition.
A. Stremfelj, J. Zaplotnik. from Lho La via W shoulder and W ridge.
S. Belak, S. Bozic, Ang Phu.
18. 1979
Oct. 1
Oct. 2
West German expedition.
H. von Kanel, G. Schmatz, H. Warth, Pertemba, Lakpa Gyalsen.
N. Banks, T. Fischbach, R. Genet,G. Kampfe. (Frau) H. Schmatz, Ang Jambu, Ang Phurba, Sundare.

 

 

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2 K2 (8610 m — 28,253 ft)

C. Chandler, B. Cormack.

1. 1954 July 31 Italian expedition.
A. Compagnoni, L. Lacedelli. by SE (Abruzzi) ridge.
2. 1977
Aug. 8
Aug. 9
Japanese expedition.
S. Shigehiro, T. Shigehiro, T. Takatsuka. by Italian route.
M. Hiroshima, M. Onodera, Y. Yamamoto, Ashraf Aman.
3. 1978
Sept. 7
Sept. 8
American expedition.
L. Reichardt, J. Wickwire. by NE ridge and E face; without oxygen.
R. Ridgeway, J. Roskelley.
4. 1979 July 12 Tyrolese-German expedition
M. Dacher, R. Messener.by Italian route; without oxyzen.
Mulkila massif from the glacier. Mulkila IV and V on the extreme left. American expedition led by Del Young.

70. Mulkila massif from the glacier. Mulkila IV and V on the extreme left. American expedition led by Del Young. Illustrated Note 10.

Mulkila IV (left) and V from Camp 1. Camp 2 was at the base of bergschurnd under N face of Mulkila V.

71. Mulkila IV (left) and V from Camp 1. Camp 2 was at the base of bergschurnd under N face of Mulkila V. Highest point reached 19,500 ft. Illustrated Note 10.

 

 

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3 KANGCHENJUNGA (8598 m — 28,208 ft)
1. 1955
May 25
May 26
British expedition.
G. C. Band, J. Brown, from the SW.
N. Hardie, H. R. A. Streather.
2. 1977 May 31 Indian expedition.
Major Premchand, Nima Dorji. by NE spur and N ridge.
3. 1979 May 16 British expedition.
P. Boardman, D. K. Scott, J. Tasker. from the NW to N Col, thence by N ridge; without oxygen.

 

 

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4 LHOTSE (8511 in — 27,923 ft)
1. 1956 May 18 Swiss expedition.
F. Luchsinger, E. Reiss. by NW face.
2. 1977
May 8
May 9
May 11
German expedition.
H. von Kanel, H. Warth, Urkien Tsering. by NW face direct.
G. Sturm, P. Vogler, F. Zintl.
M. Dacher, M. Lutz, P. Worgotter, W. Worgotter.
3. 1979
May 5
May 10
Austrian expedition.
W. Axt, H. Ladreiter.
B. Klausbruckner, I. Exnar by Swiss route.
4. 1979
Oct. 7
Oct. 8
Oct. 9
Polish expedition.
A. Heinrich, J. Kukucza. by Swiss route, without oxygen.
A. Czok, J. Skorek
J. Baranek, A. Bilczewski, S. Cholewa, R. Niklas.

 

 

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5 MAKALU (8481 m — 27,825 ft)
1. 1955
May 15
May 16
May 17
French expedition.
J. Couzy, L. Terray. by N face.
J. Franco, G. Magnone, Gyalzen Norbu.
J. Bouvier, S. Coupe, P. Leroux, A. Vialatte.
2. 1970 May 23 Japanese expedition.
Y. Ozaki, H. Tanaka by SE ridge.
3. 1971 May 23 French expedition.
B. Mellet, Y. Seigneur, by W pillar.
4. 1975
Oct. 6
Oct. 8
Oct. 10
Oct. 11
Yugoslav expedition.
S. Belak, M. Manfreda. by S face.
J. Azman, N. Zaplotnik
V. Groselj, I. Kotnik.
J. Dovzam.
5. 1976 May 24 Czechoslovak expedition.
M. Krissak, K. Schubert,
J. Camprubi1 by SW pillar.
6. 1978
May 1
May 10
May 21
International expedition
H. Warth, Ang Chepal. by French route.
H. von Kanel, K. Landvogt, Ang Temba.
K. Diemberger, Nawang Tenzing.

 

 

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6 DHAULAGIRI (8167 m — 26,795 ft)

(First four and seventh ascents by NE Col and NE spur)

1. 1960
May 13
May 23
Swiss (international) expedition.
K. Diemberger, P. Diener, E. Forrer,
A. Schelbert, Nima Dorje, Nawang Dorje.
M. Vaucher, H. Weber.
2. 1970 Oct. 20 Japanese expedition.
T. Kawada, Lhakpa Tenzing.
3. 1973 May 12 American expedition.
L. Reichardt, J. Roskelley, Nawang Samden.
4. 1976 May 4 Italian expedition.
S. Simoni, G. Zortea.
5. 1978
May 10
May 11
Japanese expedition.
T. Kobayashi, T. Shigeno. by left hand pillar of S face.
Y. Kato, S. Shimizu, H. Yoshino, Ang Kami. by Central pillar of S face.
6. 1978
Oct. 19
Oct. 20
Japanese expedition.
T. Miyazaki, H. Tani, A. ITbe.
by S face and SE ridge.
S. Suzuki, N. Yamada, Nawang Yonden.
7. 1979 May 12 Spanish expedition.
I. Aldaya, F. Garayoa, G. Plaza, J. Pons, Ang Rita.

Footnote

  1. Member of an unsuccessful Spanish expedition.

 

 

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7 MANASLU (8156 m — 26,760 ft)
1. 1956
May 9
May 11
Japanese expedition.
T. Imanishi, Gyalzen Norbu.
from the E.
M. Higeta, K. Kato.
2. 1971 May 17 Japanese expedition.
K. Kohara, M. Tanaka. by W wall
3. 1972 April 25 Austrian expedition.
R. Messner. by S face.
4. 1973 April 22 German expedition.
S. Hupfauer, G. Schmatz, Urkien Sherpa. by new route on E face.
Japanese women's expedition.
M. Mori, N. Nakaseko, M. Uchida, Jambu Sherpa.
6. 1975 April 26 Spanish expedition.
G. B. Garcia, J. R. Martinez, Sonam Sherpa. by E ridge.
7. 1976 Oct. 12 Iranian-Japanese expedition.
J. Assadi, J. Kageyama, Pasang.
from the E.
8. 1974 May 4 from the E. First women's ascent of an 8000-er.

 

 

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8 CHO OYU (8153 m — 26,750 ft)

(All ascents by W face)

1. 1954 Oct. 19 Austrian expedition.
S. Jochler, H. Tichy, Pasang Dawa Lama.
2. 1958 May 15 Indian expedition.
Pasang Dawa Lama, Sonam Gyaltsen.
3. 1964 April 25 German expedition.
F. Stammberger, P'hu Dorje II

 

 

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9 NANGA PARBAT (8125 m — 26,660 ft)
1. 1953 July 3 Austro-German expedition.
H. Buhl. from NE (Rakhiot glacier).
2. 1962 June 22 German expedition.
T. Kinshofer, S. Low, A. Mannhardt. by Diamir face.
3. 1970
June 27
June 28
German expedition.
G. and R. Messner. 1st traverse; ascent by Rupal faee? descent by Diamir face. G. Messner was killed on the descent.
F. Kuen, P. Scholz. by Rupal face.
4. 1971 July 11 Czechoslovak expedition.
I. Fiala, M. Orolin. by Rakhiot glacier.
5. 1976 Aug. 11 Austrian expedition.
S. Gimpel, R. Schauer, H. Schell, H. Sturm. by SW ridge.
6. 1978 Aug. 9 Italian two-man expedition.
R. Messner.
by new route on Diamir face.
7. 1978
Aug. 23
Aug. 28
Austrian expedition.
W. Bauer, R. Streif, R. Wurzer.
by Diamir face.
A. Imitzer, A. Indrich.

 

 

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10 ANNAPURNA I (8091 m — 26,545 ft)

(All ascents by N face except No. 3)

1. 1950 June 3 French expedition.
M. Herzog, L. Lachenal.
2. 1970 May 20 British-Nepalese expedition.
M. W. H. Day, G. F. Owens
3. 1970 May 27 British expedition.
D. Haston, D. Whillans. by S face.
4. 1977 Oct. 13 Dutch expedition.
M. van Rijswick, Sonam Sherpa
5. 1978 Oct. 15 American women's expeditior
I.Miller, V. Komarkova, Chawang Rinzee, Mingma Tsering
6. 1979 April 30 French expedition.
Y. Morin, H. Sigayret. by French route.
7. 1979 May 8 Japanese expedition.
S. Tanaka, Pemba Sherpa.
by Dutch route.

 

 

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11 GASHERBRUM I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m — 26,470 ft)
1. 1958 July 5 American Expedition.
A. J. Kauffman, P. K. Schoening.
by SE spur.
2. 1975 Aug. 10 Two-man expedition.
P. Habeler, R. Messner. by NW face.
3. 1975 Aug. 11 Austrian expedition
R. Schauer, H. Schell, H. Zefferer. by American route.
4. 1977 July 8 Yugoslav expedition.
A. Stremfelj, N. Zaplofiik.
by SW ridge.

 

 

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12 BROAD PEAK (8047 m — 26,400 ft)
1. 1957 June 9 Austrian expedition.
M.Schmuck, F.Wintersteller:
H. Buhl, K. Diemberger. by W spur and N ridge.
2. 1977 Aug. 8 Japanese expedition.
K. Noro, T. Ozaki, Y. Tsuji.
by Austrian route.
3. 1978 June 4 French expedition.
Y. Seigneur.
by Austrian route.

 

 

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13 SHISHA PANGMA (GOSAINTHAN) (8046 m — 26,398 ft)
1. 1964 May 2 Chinese expedition.
Hsu Ching, Chang Chun-yen, Wang FuChou, Chen San, Wu Tsung-yueh, Cheng Tien-liang, Dorji, Minar Trashi, Sodnam Dorji, Tontan. from the N.

 

 

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14 GASHERBRUM II (8035 m — 26,360 ft)
1. 1956 July 7 Austrian expedition.
S. Larch, F. Moravec, H. Willenpart. by SW spur and E ridge.
2. 1975 June 18 French expedition.
M. Batard, Y. Seigneur, by SE spur.
3. 1975
Aug. 1
Aug. 9
Aug. 12
Polish expedition.
L. Cichy, J. Onyszkiewicz,
K. Zdzitowiecki.
by SW rib and NW face.
M. Jahas, A. Lapinski, W. L. Wozniak.,
by Austrian route.
A.Okopinska,H.K. Syrokomska. by Austrian route. First all-women rope to reach an 8000 m summit.
4. 1978 Aug. 9 Austro-German expedition.
G. Brosig. by Austrian route.
5. 1979 June 9 Chilean expedition. L. LucerOj G. Oyarzum by Austrian route
6. 1979
July 31
Aug. 4
Austro-German expedition.
K. Hub, R. Karl, H. Sturm
K. Diemberger, W. Loesch, H. Schell,A. Schwab, W. Weitzenboech, H. Fayyaz.

 

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