EXPEDITIONS 1976-1979

  1. 1976 GARHWAL
  2. 1977 GARHWAL
  3. KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  4. LADAKH
  5. HINDU KUSH
  6. 1978 SIKKIM
  7. NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
  8. NEPAL (Post-Monsoon)
  9. GARHWAL
  10. HIMACHAL PRADESH — KULU — LAHUL — CHAMBA — SPITI
  11. KASHMIR — KISHTWAR LADAKH
  12. KARAKORAM
  13. HINDU KUSH
  14. 1979 SIKKIM
  15. NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
  16. Post-Monsoon
  17. GARHWAL
  18. KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  19. KASHMIR- LADAKH- KISHTWAR
  20. KARAKORAM
  21. HINDU KUSH

 

 

1976 GARHWAL
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Kalindi (6102 m - 20,020 ft) The Mountaineers Bombay C. D. Danthi Climbed 3.6.76

 

 

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1977 GARHWAL
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 a) Pt. 6166 m(20,230 ft) on Seta Glacier
b) Kalindi
Indian Amulya Sen 1st ascent
2. Bamba Dhura (6334 m - 20,780 ft) Himalayan Association, Calcutta Manik Bannerjee 1st ascent 3.10.77 via south ridge

 

 

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KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. KarchaParbat(6270 m - 20,572 ft) Irish - 1st ascent 19.9.77
2. Mulkila(6517 m - 21,380 ft) Japanese Y. Watanabe Climbed 10.10.77
3. Gangstang(6162 m - 20,218 ft) Japanese S. Suzuki Climbed 26.9.77
4. a) Phawrarang (6359 m-20,864 ft)
b) Pt. 5355 m (17,570 ft)
Indian Army Col. Balwant Sandhu 1st ascent 15 & 17.6.77
1st ascent 19.6.77

 

 

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LADAKH
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Kun(7087 m - 23,250 ft) Swiss Hans Schell Climbed (skied from summit)

 

 

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HINDU KUSH
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Kohe Bandaka (6414 m) Spanish A. Martin Climbed
2. M7 (6224 m) (Mandaras Valley) Spanish E. Civis Climbed via NW buttress
3. Noshaq (7492 m) Spanish E. Font Climbed

 

Note : The bulk of 1977 expeditions have been listed in H. J., Vol. XXXV, Ed.

 

 

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1978 SIKKIM
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Pandim(6691 m-21,953 ft) Durgapur Mountaineering Association, West Bengal P.Mukherjee Attempted

 

 

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NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Everest (8848 m - 29,028 ft) OEAV Austrian Wolfgang Nairz Climbed via South Col. 3,8 & 14.5.18. R. Messner and P. Hebler were first to climb without oxygen
2. a) Kangchenjunga South Peak (8474 m - 27,803 ft) Polish Himalayan Expedition Piotr Mlotecki 1st ascent 19.5.78
3. b)Kangchenjunga Central Peak (8478 m- 28,817 ft)
Makalu(8481 m - 27,824 ft)
West German Dr H. Warth 1st ascent
Climbed via French 1955 route
4. Yalungkang (8420 m - 27,625 ft) Spanish Joseph Piera Climbed 18.5.78 via SW face
5 Jannu(7710 m - 25,294 ft) American John Roskelley Attempted
6. Pumori(7145 m - 23,442 ft) Hiroshima Shudo University Expedition Teruhiko Nagato Climbed 8.5.78 SW ridge
7. Annapurna IV (7525 m - 24,688 ft) Korean Alpine Club Chun Byung Koo Climbed 23.4.78 via NW ridge
8. Annapurna South (7219 m - 23,683 ft) Sagamino Alpine Club, Japan Kuniaki Yamada Attempted
9. Dhaulagiri I (8167 m - 26,795 ft) Tokyo Alpine Club T. Amemiya Climbed 10 & 11.5.78 via S Pillar
10. Dhaulagiri II (7751 m - 25,429 ft) Nagoya Alpine Club, Japan Y. Ogawa Climbed 8.5.78 via E ridge
11. Churen Himal (7371 m - 24,184 ft) Japanese Dr Yasuo Abe Attempted
12. Manaslu (8156 m - 26,760 ft) American G. E. Porzak Attempted
13 Himalchuli (7893 m - 25,895 ft) Japanese Y. Ogata Climbed 6 & 7.5.78.
14 Jethibahurani (6940 m-22,770 ft) Shiushu University K. Yamado Climbed via E ridge 27.4.78
15. Annapurna I (8091 m-26,545 ft) Karntner Austrian Expedition Ernst Gritzner Attempted
16. Annapurna II (7937 m-26,041 ft) Austrian/ German Johann Scharnagle Attempted
17. Putha Hiunchuli (7246 m-23,774 ft) West German Dieter Steigleiter Attempted
18 Tukuche (6920 m-22,703 ft) Italian Franco Nembrini Attempted

 

 

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NEPAL (Post-Monsoon)
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
19. Everest German/ French Dr K. Herrlig- koffer M. Pierre Mazaud Climbed 14, 15, 16 & 17.10.78
20. Makalu Polish J. Kurczab Attempted
21. Jannu British R. A. B. Car- rington Climbed 21.10.78
22. Nuptse (7879 m-25,850 ft) British Doug Scott Attempted
23. Ama Dab lam (6856 m-22,495 ft) French Jean Clemenson Attempted
24. Annapurna I American Women's Expedition Arlene Blum Climbed 15.10.78 via N face
25. Annapurna II British R. Isherwood Attempted
26. Annapurna III (7555 m-24,787 ft) American S. Van Meter Attempted
27. Manaslu Japanese S. Shimizu Attempted
28. Peak 29 (7514 m-24,652 ft) Japanese F. Tanaka Attempted
29. Dhaulagiri I Japanese S. Tanaka Climbed via S face to SE ridge 19 & 20.10.78
30. Dhaulagiri I French Y.Pollet- Villard Attempted
31. Langtang Lirung (7239 m-23,750 ft) Nepales Japanese Akira Ban Climbed 24.10.78
32. Parbil (Ganesh IV) (7102 m-23,302 ft) Nepalese / Japanese S. Toyoda Y. Thapa Climbed via S face and SE ridge 22.10.78
33. Nilgiri South Peak (6839 m-22,439 ft) Shinshu University, Japan K. Mitsui 1st ascent via E ridge 11.10.78
34. Dhaulagiri II Kyoto Alpine League, Japan Y. Omishi Attempted
35. Tukuche Nagai Alpine Club, Japan T. Kurosawa Attempted
36. Putha Hiunchuli German Alpine Club Gunter Strum Climbed 8, 12 & 19.10.78
37. Annapurna South Peak Meiji University Expedition, Japan T. Kohno Climbed 16 & 17.10.78
38. Tilicho(7132 m-23,400 ft) French Roger Emin 1st ascent via E ridge 10.10.78
39. Pumori Swiss Romolo Nottaris Climbed 18, 19 & 22.10.78
40. Makalu II (7640 m-25,066 ft) French B. Ferrier Climbed via Makalu Col 22.10.78
41. Api (7132 m-23,399 ft) Italian Renato Moro Climbed 16.10.78
42. Himalchuli British John Cleare Ian Howe! Attempted Climbed NE Peak
43. Kangdeshar(6190 m-20,308 ft) British L. Griffin R. Everett Climbed 1st ascent via N face

 

 

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GARHWAL
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Hardeol(7151 m-23,460 ft) Indo-Tibet Border Police S. P. Mulasi 1st ascent 31.5.78
2. Dunagiri (7066 m-23184 ft) Australian P. Cocker 4th ascent via SW ridge 30.5.78
3. Kalanka. (6931 m-22,740 ft) British B. D. Barton Climbed via SE flank 11.10.78
4. a) Bhartekhunta (6578 m- 21,580 ft)
b) Kedar Dome (6831 m- 22,410 ft)
Indian Air Force Sq. Ldr.V. P. Singh 1st ascent 5.5.78
Climbed 7.5.78 and skied down to camp at 13,500 ft
5. a) Nanda Devi (7817 m- 25,645 ft)
b) Pt. 6895 m (22,623 ft)
Czecho- slovakian V. Starcala Attempted
Climbed 7.6.78
6. Nanda Devi East (7434 m-24,391 ft) Welsh D. Hopkins Attempted
7. Matri (6721 m-22,050 ft) I.I.S.C.O, Sports Association, Burhanpur J. Mitra Climbed, May
8. Saptasringi (5054 m-16,584 ft) Bombay Ladies L. Oza Expedition   Climbed 26.6.78
9 Dunagiri American K. Ketron Climbed 18.10.78 both summiters killed during descent
10 Nanda Devi American M. Clarke Climbed 21.6.78
11. Nanda Devi East Japanese M. Nishimoto Attempted
12. Devistan I & II (6678 m-21,910 ft) American T. A. Mutch Climbed
13. Srikanta (6133 m-20,120 ft) Mountain Lovers Association, Asansol M. Sengupta 1st ascent
14. Chaturangi (6393 m-20,975 ft) Assam Mountaineering Association Bhagat Singh Climbed
15. Jogin III(6116 m-20,065 ft) Holiday Hikers Club, Bombay A. R. Chandekar Climbed
16. Bandarpunch (6315 m-20,720 ft) St Stephen's College, Delhi P. M. Das Climbed
17. Manda II (6501 m-21,330 ft) Mountain Lovers Association, Asansol Tushar Sarkar 1st ascent
18. Mandir Parbat (6559 m-21,520 ft) Indian Sisir Ghosh Attempted Climbed Pt. 19,960 ft
19. a) Mana (7272 m- 23,860 ft)
b) Kamet (7756 m- 25,447 ft)
Trekkers' Guild, Calcutta Amiyo Mukherjee Attempted
Attempted
20. Chotakhaga Jaladri (5974 m-19,600 ft) Indian G. R. Patbordhan Climbed
21. Avalanche Peak (6443 m-21,140 ft) Climbers Group Calcutta - Attempted
22. a) Kedarnath (6940 m- 22,270 ft)
b) Kedarnath Dome (6831 m- 22,410 ft)
Indo-Tibet Border Police Y. C. Khanna Climbed and skied down from both the peaks, June
23. Mrigthuni(6855 m-22,490 ft) Parvatarohi, Bombay R. Singh Climbed, October
24. Mrigthuni Italian G. Rinaldo Climbed, September
25. Trisul II (6690 m-21,949 ft) British Army Royal Engineers Maj.M .W. H. Day Climbed. Completed Yugoslav route on W rib of Trisul I on 21.6.78. Did not proceed to summit for want of permit
26. a) Trisul II
b) Trisul I (7120 m- 23,360 ft)
Japanese S. Inoda 2nd ascent. Climbed from Trisul Glacier, Climbed
27. Changabang (6864 m-22,520 ft) Anglo-Polish John Porter Climbed. 1st ascent via S buttress route
28. Nanda Devi British Terry King Attempted
29. a) Lampak(6181 m-20,280 ft)
b) Pt. 6325 m (20,751 ft)
Indian Army Col. Prem Lal Kikrety Climbed 20.9.78
1st ascent 20.9.78
30. Koteshwar (c. 6035 m- c. 19,800 ft) Diganta A. K. Roy Choudhary Climbed 29.9.78
31. Bauljuri (5922 m-19,430 ft) Eastern Railway Scouts, Calcutta P. C. Bhatta-charjee Climbed 28.6.78
32. Deoban (6855 m-22,490 ft) Indian Civil Services Vijay Devashar Attempted Attempted
33. Dunagiri Polish Z.Rubinowska Attempted
34. Shankalpa (5928 m-19,450 ft) Mountaineers Youth Ring, Calcutta M. K. Bandoyo- Climbed padhyaya  

 

 

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HIMACHAL PRADESH — KULU — LAHUL — CHAMBA — SPITI
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Kinnaur Kailash (6474 m-21,240 ft) Parachute Regiment Capt K. V. Kumar 1st ascent 13.6.78
2. Menthosa (6444 m-21,140 ft) Kings' School, Ely, U.K. D. Challis Climbed. Five other peaks also climbed
3. C B 11 ' (6044 m-19,830 ft) Japanese M. Matu- sushima climbed
4. a) M6 (6182 m-20,283 ft)
b) Minar (6172 m- 20,250 ft)
British Sq. Ldr. E. J. M. Thomas Climbed6&7.7.78 Climbed 24.6.78
5 Ram Jak (6318 m-20,730 ft) Parachute Regiment   Attempted
6 Ali Ratna Tibba (5490 m-18,013 ft) Explorers and Adventurers, Bombay Ravi Kamath Climbed, June
7 Rubalkang (6187 m-20,300 ft) Add-venture Bengal A. Moitra Climbed, September
8 Papsura(6451 m-21,164 ft) Japanese M. Masuda Attempted
9 Mulkila 5 (6400 m-20,998 ft) American C. F. Moore Attempted
10 Mon Peak (Dhaula Dhar) (4610 m-15,124 ft) The Mountaineers Bombay Harish Kapadia Attempted
11 K.R. 4(6340 m-20,802 ft) Swiss P. A. Jaunin Attempted
12 Dibibokri Pyramid (6408 m-21,025 ft) British Dick Hewitt 1st ascent September
13 Pt. 6294 m (SW of Baihali Jot) (20,650 ft) Meiji University T. Sakamoto 1st ascent 27.9.78
14 a) Prow (5556 m~ 18,230 ft )
b) Shudra Pahar (c. 5486 m- c. 18,000 ft)
c) Tara Pahar (5930 m- 19,456 ft)
d) Deception Peak (Bispeer Pahar) (6019 m- 19,750 ft)
e) Angdu Ri (5944 m- 19,500)
f) Dharamsura (White Saib (6446 m- 21,148 ft)
g) Sentinel Peak (c. 5639 m- c. 18,500 ft)
h) Morning Peak (5364 m- 17,600 ft)
i) Robert's Peak (5865 m- 19,243 ft)
j) Devachen (6187 m- 20,300 ft)
English N. Groves 1st ascent 9 & 10.5.78 1st ascent

Climbed 14.5.78
Climbed 22.5.78 E Ridge and also NW face
Climbed
Climbed
1st ascent 3 & 6.6.78
Climbed 4.6.78
Climbed 5.6.78
2nd ascent via NW face
15 Dharamsura (White Sail) Ladies Expedition, Calcutta Rama Sen Gupta Climbed 3.10.78
16 a) Lion (6126 m- 20,000 ft)
b) Pt, 6020 m (19,750 ft)
Jadavpur University, Bengal A.B.Choudhary Climbed 5.10.78
Climbed 2.10.78
17 Menthosa New Delhi, Indian B. K. Gupta Attempted
18 Phabrang (6172 m-22,250 ft) Dongun Mountain Club, Japan N. Tsutsumi Attempted via N face

 

 

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KASHMIR — KISHTWAR LADAKH
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Kolahoi (5425 m-17,799 ft) Indian S. K. Mehta Attempted
2. Kolahoi Indian V. S. Mahajan Climbed, June
3. a) Nun (7135 m-23,410 ft)
b) Kun
Indian Army and Border Security Force Lt. Col. P. P. S. Cheema Climbed 25.6.78
Climbed 3.7.78 Repeated ski-descent of Saudan
4. Nun Japanese Masato Oki Climbed 22.8.78
5 Harmukh (5142 m-16,872 ft) Ladies Expedition, Bombay P. Irani Attempted
6 Brammah I (6416 m-21,050 ft) British A. Wheaton Climbed September
7 a) Kun
b) White Needle (6556 m- 21,510 ft)
Czeckoslo- vakian Jan Jursa Climbed September
Climbed
8 Arjuna (6230 m-20,440 ft) British Ron Rutland Attempted
  Brahmasar (5334 m-17,500 ft) British C. Graham Climbed
  a) Puita (6000 m- British 19,685 ft) British L. Griffin Attempted
  b) Pt. 18,864 ft (5750 m) (S of Barnaj III)     Climbed Also climbed three peaks in Chiring valley
11 Pt. 6120 m (20,079 ft) (in Mimoling Group, Ladakh) German H. Karasek Climbed.Also seven other peaks nearby

 

 

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KARAKORAM
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 K2 (8610 m-28,250 ft British Chris Bonington Attempted
2 Nanga Parbat (8125 m-26,660 ft) Austrian R. Messner Climbed solo via Diamir face, a new line
3 K2 American J. Whittaker Climbed 7 & 8.9.78
4 Baintha Brakk (Ogre) (7385 m-23,900 ft) Shiznoka Tohan Club, Japan Y. Katsumi Climbed
5 Latok II* (7077 m-23,220 ft) British Paul Nunn Attempted
6 Latok III (6852 m-22,508 ft) Japanese M. Hara Attempted
*Note : As per the revised heights—Ed.
7 Broad Peak (8047 m-26,400 ft) French Y. Seigneur Climbed 4.6.78
8 Batura II (7730 m-25,316 ft) Japanese M. Nishiguri 1st ascent via SW face 6.7.78
9 Haramosh (7406 m-24,299 ft) Japanese K. Shimakata 2nd ascent
10 Ghent (NE) (c. 7342 m- c. 24,089 ft) Japanese H. Kobayashi Climbed 1st ascent
11 Gasherbrum V (7321 m-24,020 ft) Japanese R. Babaguchi 1st ascent 1 & 2.8.78
12 Passu (7257 m-23,810 ft) Pakistani- Japanese Maj. M. Hussain Lt. I. Fukura Climbed
13 Ganchen (6462 m-21,200 ft) Japanese T. Shibazaki 1st ascent. Also Climbed Pt. 6447 m.
14 Latok I (7143 m-23,436 ft) American George Lowe Attempted
15 Gasherbrum II (8035 m-26,360 ft) Austrian- German Georg Brosig Climbed solo by Brosig
16 Gasherbrum IV (7925 m-26,000 ft) British Mo Anthoine Attempted
17 Trinity Peak (6616 m-21,707 ft) Japanese S. Takahashi Climbed SW Peak
18 Pt. 6447 m (WNW of K6) (21,152 ft) Japanese A. Ishimora 1st ascent 17.8.78
19 Choktoi I (6166 m-20,229 ft) British David Putts Attempted
20 Bakhor Das (c. 5791 m- c. 19,000 ft) British Women's Expedition Jackie Anthoine Attempted
21 Spantik(7027 m-23,055 ft) Japanese Y. Murata Climbed 6 & 9.8.78
22 Spantik Japanese N. Nakumura Climbed 8.8.78
23 Chumik (6754 m-22,180 ft) Japanese A. Tokushima Attempted
24 Hachindar Chhish (7152 m-23,500 ft) Japanese H. Midorokawa Attempted
25 Nanga Parbat- N. Peak (6816 m-25,644 ft) Czecho slovakian M. Sajnoha 1st ascent
26 Nanga Parbat German Albert Krauss Attempted
27 Nanga Parbat Austrian Rudolf Wurzer Climbed 23 & 28.8.78
28 Batura (7785 m-25,540 ft) Italian A. Stefanelli Attempted

 

 

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HINDU KUSH
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Shakhaur (7116 m) Czechoslovakian S. Talla Climbed. Also 10 other ascents in the valley
2 Noshaq American S. Moomaw  
3 a) Noshaq Konstanzer H K.Expedition H Wienzierle Climbed. 1st Ascent via N wall Climbed
  b) Kharposhte- Yakhi (5697 m) Germany   Climbed
  c) Roch-e-Daroz (5695 m)     Climbed
  d)Asp-e-Safed (6450 m)     Climbed
4 Thui II (6523 m) British N. P. Tritton 1st ascent 4.8.78
5 Istor-o-Nal (7403 m) Japanese K. Nishi Climbed
6 a) Tirich Mir East (7692 m) Polish- Yugoslav S. Rudzinski Climbed 10.8.78
  b) Bindu Gul Zom (6340 m)     Climbed 10.8.78
7 Tirich Mir East Polish Henryk Bednarek Attempted
8 a) Little Tirich Mir (6361 m) Alpine Club of Canada A. Richard C. Buston Attempted
  b) Owir VII (c. 5639 m)     Climbed 14.9.78
9 Noshaq Spanish C. Iribarren Climbed
10. a) Asp-e-Safed Spanish   Climbed
  b) Kharposht-e- Yakhi     Climbed

 

 

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1979 SIKKIM
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Siniolchu (6887 m-22,597 ft) Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute, Sikkim Sonam Wangyal Climbed 18, 20, 21 & 25.5.1979
2. Simvo (6811 m-22,347 ft) National Cadet Corps, Indian Maj. Pushkar Chand 1st ascent of SE. Peak, 27.5.79
3. Sugar loaf (6440 m-21,128 ft) Himalayan Association, Calcutta Himanshu Ghosh Attempted
4. a) Pandim Diganta, S. N. Dhar Attempted
  b) Gocha (6118 m-20,075 ft) Calcutta   Attempted

 

 

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NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Everest Yugoslavian Tone Skarja Climbed 13 & 15-5-79
2 Lhotse(8511 m-27,293 ft) Austrian Erich Vanis Climbed 5 & 10.5.79
3 Ama Dablam American Roger Brown Tom Frost Climbed 22, 25 & 30.4.79
4 Thamserku (6608 m-21,680 ft) Japanese S. Kimura Climbed 22.4.79
5 Kangtega (6809 m-22,340 ft) Japanese K. Yuda Climbed 21.4.79
6 Kangchenjunga (8598 m-28,208 ft) British Doug Scott Climbed 16.5.79
7 Jannu Czechoslovakian Ivan Galfy Attempted
8 Numbur (6954 m-22,815 ft) Nepalese-Swiss Jacques and Pasang Lama Attempted
9 Gaurishankar (7150 m-23,460 ft) American- Nepalese Per Temba and A1 Read 1st ascent 8.5.79
10 Annapurna I French Jean Louis Georges Climbed 30.4.79
11 Annapurna I Japanese H. Yagi Climbed 8.5.1979
12 Fang (7650 m-25,089 ft) Austrian Josef Mayerl Attempted
13 Nilgiri Central (6940 m-22,770 ft) Alpine Club of Matsuyama, Japan Maskai Aoki Climbed 30.4.79 & 1.5.79
14 Tilicho Japan Tomari Expedition I. Saeki 2nd ascent 25 & 26.4.1979
15 Manaslu Italian Alpine Club L. Massarotto Attempted
16 Dhaulagiri I Spanish Navarrean Expedition Gregario Ariz Climbed 12.5.79
17 Dhaulagiri I Swiss-French Sylvain Saudan Attempted
18 Annapurna South Polish J. Pietkiewiez Climbed 2.5.79 A new route on western face
19 Peak 29 (7514 m-24,653 ft) Polish Ryszard Szafirski Climbed 18.5.1979
20 Nampa (6755 m-22,162 ft) American William Roos Attempted

 

 

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Post-Monsoon
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
21 Everest Swabian Expedition West Germany Dr Gerard Schmatz Climbed 1 & 2-10.1979
22 Everest British Doug Scott Attempted
23 Lhotse Silesian Expedition Dr A. M. Bilczewski Climbed 4 & 9.10.79
24 Nuptse British Doug Scott Climbed 20.10.79
25 Ama Dablam Swiss Reymond Renaud Climbed 21,22,23.10.79
26 Ama Dablam New Zealand Expedition Peter Hillary Attempted
27 Ama Dablam Austrian Wolfgang Nairz Attempted
28 Kangtega British R A. B. Carrington Attempted
29 Makalu II German G. Lenser Climbed 9,12 & 15.10.79
30 Dhaulagiri I Polish Dr G. Malaczynski Attempted
31 Dhaulagiri II Dhaulagiri III (7715 m-25,312 ft) Dhaulagiri V (7618 m-24,992 ft) Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition Mrs Michiko Takahai Traverse of three peaks completed on 17 & 18.10.79
32 Putha Hiunchuli German S. Hupfeuer Pit Schubert Climbed 18, 19, 20.10.79 and 3 & 7.11.1979
33 Tukuche French Rene Collet Climbed W peak 22.10.79
34 Annapurna I American Bob Wilson Attempted
35 Annapurna II British Paul Moores Attempted
36 Annapurna III British Ron Rutland Climbed 6.11.79
37 Annapurna IV (7525 m-24,688 ft) Spanish Basque Expedition M. Zabaleta Attempted
38 Fang Italian A.Bergamaschi Attempted
39 Nilgiri North (7061 m-23,167 ft) Seppyo Alpine Club, Japan K. Ishikawa Attempted
40 Nilgiri Central Himeiji Gakaya Alpine Club, Japan T. Nishimura Attempted
41 Manaslu Argentine V. Guillerma Attempted
42 Manaslu North (7157 m-23,482 ft) Kekonose Expedition Czechoslovakia U.Drupicka Climbed 16 & 18.10.79
43 Himalchuli American Skip Homer Attempted
44 Gaurishankar British Peter Boardman Climbed S. peak 9.11.79
45 Numbur Norwegian Arne Naiss Attempted
46 Kanjiroba (6882 m-22,580 ft) Fukuoka Alpine Club Japan A. Incuoga Climbed 4.11.79
47 Ganesh II (7150 m-23,460 ft) Japanese- Nepalese T.Ohmori Climbed 19,20, 21.10.79
48 Himalchuli Japanese Ladies Expedition   Attempted

 

 

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GARHWAL
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. a) Chiring We (6559 m-21,520 ft) The Mountaineers Bombay Harish Kapadia 1st ascent 10.6.79
  b) Bamba Dhura     2nd ascent 5.6.79
  c)'Kalabaland Dhura'(6105 m-20,030 ft)     1st ascent 6.6.79
  d) 'Shankalpa' (5928 m-19,450 ft)     3rd ascent 9.6.79
2 Bamchu (6303 m-20,680 ft) Giri Vihar, Bombay Mahesh Desai Attempted
3 Jogin III Indian Institute of Technology, Bombay Vasant Limaye Attempted
4 Deoban St Stephen's College, New Delhi Capt. J. Mann Attempted
5 Pt. 20,230 ft Swetvam Glacier (6166 m) Holiday Hikers Club, Bombay V. Pandit Attempted
6 Kamet Indian Army Maj. Pratap Singh Climbed 5 & 7.6.79
7 Kedar Dome Indian V. S. Mahajan Climbed
8 Trisul I Indian Ladies N.C.C. Expedition Col. Jagjit Singh Climbed
9 Trisul German W. Jurgen Climbed
10 a) Kalindi
b) Thelu (6001 m-19,690 ft)
Ladies Expedition Bombay K. Saraswathi Climbed
Climbed
11 Thelay Sagar (Phating Pithwara) (6904 m-22,652 ft) American Welsh Canadian John Thackray 1st ascent
12 Vasuki Parbat (6793 m-22,285 ft) N. G. Cleaver Attempted
13 Srikanta Dilsher Singh Virk Climbed 15.10.79
14 Panwali Doar (6663 m-21,860 ft) Nagano Expedition, Japan S Sakamoto Attempted
15 Nilgiri Parbat (6474 m-21,240 ft) Himchakra, Bengal T. Bhatta- charya Attempted
16 Kamet Himalayan Enjoyers' Association, Bengal B. K. Dutta Attempted
17 Bharte Khunta (6578 m-21,580 ft) Ladies Mountaineering Club Bombay Sheila Mandke Attempted
18 Abi Gamin (7356m-24,130 ft) Trekkers Guild, Calcutta Attempted
19 Rataban(6166 m-20,100 ft) Indo-New Zealand Expedition Col B. S. Sandhu Galen Rowell Climbed
20 Kedar Dome The Adventurers Assam P. G. Bhagwati Climbed
21 Devistan III (5944 m-19,500 ft) Indian V. Paranjpe Climbed 8.6.79
22 Sri Kailash (6932 m-22,744 ft) Parvatarohi Bombay Ranvir Singh Attempted Climbed Pt. c. 21,750 ft.
23 Bhagirathi I (6856 m-22,495 ft) French Louis Drouot Attempted
24 Dunagiri French Alain Gautier Attempted
25 Dunagiri Polish G. Benke Attempted
26 a) Dunagini
b) Bugial Koti (5221 m-17.130 ft)
German Dieter Sause Attempted
27 Trisul German EERuff Climbed
28 Trisul Austrian M. Schmuck Climbed
29 Trisul Italian A. Zanotti Attempted
30 Bethartoli Himal (6352 m-20,840ft) Spanish F.J. Ugarte Attempted
31 Devtoli (6788 m-22,270 ft) Tokyo Metropolitan University Expedition Japan F. Konno Climbed
32 Kedar Dome Ordnance — Factory Bengal A. K Ghosh Climbed
33 Kedarnath Eastern Railway Bharat Scouts, Calcutta S. Mitra Climbed
34 Kedarnath Indian Army Maj. S. S. Kahlon Attempted
35 Rudugaira (5819 m-19,090 ft) Indian A. V. Palande Climbed
36 Rudugaira The Monters, Baroda, India P. Mistry Climbed
37 Sudarshan Parbat (6507 m-21.350 ft) Himalayan Association Calcutta U. Ganguly Attempted
38 Ghangabang American D. Gowans Attempted
39 Black Peak (6387 m-20,956 ft) American T. Bielefeldt Attempted
40 Bhagirathi III (6454 m-21,176 ft) Czechoslovakian Z. Lukes Climbed
41 Mnigthuni Spanish A. S. Gardia Attempted
42 Kedarnath Polish Jan Zaunar Attempted
43 Panvali Doar Japan Workers' Alpine Federation K. Kondo Attempted

 

 

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KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
l Deo Tibba (6001 m-19,687 ft) Thane Mountaineers, Bombay Nandu Dighe Attempted
2 Papsura Mountaineers' Club, Calcutta P. K. Ganguly Attempted
3 Mfenthosa, Austrian Gunther Gouber Climbed
4 Deo Tibba Japanese H. Yoshina Climbed
5 Deo Tibba Polish A. Zboinski Attempted
6 C. B. 13 (6230 m-20,440 ft) Scottish J. S. Whaley Attempted
7 C. B. 12 (6248 m-20,500 ft) Hyogo Women's Expedition, Japan M. Yoshimoto Climbed
8 Tara Pahar (6227m-20,430 ft) Ohtani University, Alpine Club, Japan K. Numa Climbed
9 a) Mulkila
b) K.R. I (6157 m-20,201 ft)
Royal Air Force-
Indian Air Force
Wing Com. N. M. Ridley Climbed
10 Dharamsura (White Sail) Toyota Alpine Club K. Tanaka Climbed
11 Dharamsura (White Sail) Australian Peter Allen Climbed
12 Cathedral (6400 m-20,998 ft) Himalayan Association of Japan Y. Yamakura Attempted
13 Mulkila IV (6518 m-21,380 ft) Pune Mountaineers Ladies Expedition, India Usha Bhide Cimbed
14 Shigrila (6230 m-20,440 ft) Giri - Dost. Bengal Bani Bose Attempted
15 Kinnaur Kailash (6474 m-21,240 ft) Indian Army Maj. A. C. Roy Attempted
16 Pinnacle (5029 m-16,500 ft) French G. Rivier Attempted
17 Lindu II(Upper Chandra Basin) (5620 m-18,440 ft) Mountaineers Youth Ring Calcutta M. K. Bandyopadhyaya Climbed

 

 

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KASHMIR- LADAKH- KISHTWAR
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Saser Kangri (7672 m- 25,170 ft) Indian Army Col. Jagjit Singh Climbed 22 & 24. 5. 79
2 Nun Climbers & Trekkers Club, Calcutta N. Mullick Climbed
3 a) Nun
b) Kun
Australian G. P. Hausmann Climbed 20.6.79
4 Kun Japanese M. Katagiri Climbed
5 Kun Austrian I. Pichler Climbed
6 Kun Japanese K. Kondo Climbed
7 Kun German B. Franz Climbed
8 Kun Spanish J. C.P. R odriguez Attemped
9 Nun Italian Alberto Re Attemped
10 a) Stok Kangri (5900 m- 19,357 ft)
b) Gup Kangri (5900 m- 19,357 ft)
J & K Mountaineering Club M. A. Laigroo Climbed
Climbed 26.7.79
11 Harmukh Indian Border --- Security Force Climbed 5.7.79
12 Harmukh Rock and Snow Calcutta S. N. Dass Attempted
13 a) Stok Kangri
b) Gulap Kangri (5800 m- 19,030 ft)
c) Parcha Kangri (6030 m-19,785 ft)
German Alpine Club Climbed
Climbed
Climbed
14 Bobang (6009m- 19,715 ft) Japanese T. Ogura Attempted
15 N. 8 (6392 m-20,972 ft) Japanese O. Suzuki Attempted
16 Pt. 6558 m (Kishtwar) (21,516 ft) Konan University Club, Japan K. Bhibuya Climbed
17 a) Sickle Moon (6574 m- 21,569 ft)
b) Brammah I
Japanese Alpine Club K. Denda Climbed
Climbed
18 Brammah II (6425 m-21,080 ft) Welsh J. V. Anthoine Attempted
19 Barnaj II (6290 m-20,637 ft) British Climbed
20 a) Brammah's Wife (5279 m- 17,320 ft)
b) Eiger (6000 m-19,685 ft)
British
British
Anthony Wheaton Climbed
21 Kolahoi Saiya Alpine Club, Japan M. Matsumoto Climbed
22 Pt. 6100 m (Baskar Range) (20,000 ft) Indian Army Maj. Devinder Singh Climbed Also three other peaks

 

 

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KARAKORAM
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 K2 Austrian R. Messner M. Dacher Climbed 12.7.79
2 Gampar Zom (6518 m-21,385 ft) Japanese I Yoshimori Attempted
3 Teram Kangri III (7382 m-24,218 ft) Hirosaki University Japan S. Hanada Climbed
4 Latok II Japanese N. Takada Climbed
5 Latok III Japanese Y. Teranishi Climbed
6 Kunyang Chhish (7852 m-25,760 ft) Japanese K. Echizenya Climbed 11.7.79
7 Dobani (6144 m-20,158 ft) Japanese M. Sherkhan 1st ascent 9.6.79
8 Rakaposhi (7788 m-25,550 ft) Polish- Pakistani Geoff Childs 2nd ascent 1, 2 & 5.7.79
9 a) Paiju N (6754 m-22,160 ft)
b) Choricho (6754m- 22,160 ft)
British Climbed
1st ascent
10 Uli Biaho (6248 m-20,520 ft) American John Roskelley 1st ascent
11 Haramosh Pakistan Army Climbed
12 Gasherbrum II Chilean Climbed
13 Broad Peak Austrian F. Berghold Attempted
14 a) Sia Kangri (7422m- 24,350 ft)
b) Baltoro Kangri III (7310 m- 23,983 ft)
c) Baltoro Kangri IV (7330 m- 24,050 ft)
Kyoto Japan Expedition R. Haya- shibara Climbed
Climbed
Climbed
15 Linksar (7041 m-23,101 ft) Japanese K. Goto Attempted
16 Skamri(6737 m 22,104 ft) Japanese J. Kamer 1st ascent 20.7.79
17 Pumar Chhish (7492 m-24,581 ft) Japanese T. Sasaki 1st ascent
18 Kunyang Chhish N (c 7200 m- c 23,623 ft) Japanese K. Achizenya 1st ascent 11.7.79
19 Lupghar SarCentral (c 7200 m c 23,623 ft) Japanese M. O. Doi 1st ascent 4.8.79

 

 

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HINDU KUSH
  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Ghochhar Sat (6249 m) Shrikarawa Alpine Club, Japan Y. Sugimura Attempted
2 Pt. 6206 m (Between Thui I and II) British Jim Fotheringham 1st ascent
3 Bindu Gol Zom II(6241 m) Kawasaki City Expedition T. Sakahara 1st ascent 15.8.1979

 

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