Himalayan Journal vol.33
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.33

Publication year:
1975

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. WHAT GEORGE EVEREST DID
    (JOHN MARTYN)
  3. SOME RECENT TRENDS IN MOUNTAINEERING MEDICINE
    (DR. ARNOLD PINES)
  4. MT. EVEREST, 1972
    (DR. KARL HERRLIGKOFFER)
  5. LHOTSE, 1973
    (RYOHEI UCHIDA)
  6. AMERICAN DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION 1973
    (LOUIS F. REICHARDT)
  7. TUKCHE, 1974
    (YOSHIO OGATA)
  8. MANASLU, 1974
    (K. SATO, N. NAKASEKO, T. KUROISHI)
  9. LAMJUNG HIMAL, 1974
    (DICK ISHERWOOD)
  10. GANGAPURNA, 1974
    (TOSHIO NOSHI)
  11. PUTHA HIUNCHULI, 1972
    (TADAAKI SAHASHI)
  12. HIMAL CHULI, 1974
    (A. BONICELLI AND N. CALEGARI)
  13. THE FIRST ASCENT OF KANGBACHEN, 1974
    (K. OLECH)
  14. THE ASCENT OF SERKU DHOLMA AND EXPLORATION OF THE EAST AND SOUTHEAST AREAS OF PHOKSUMDO TAL, 1973
    (EIJI KAWAMURA, M.D.)
  15. THE ASCENT OF KANJERALWA, 1973
    (FUMIHITO WATANABE)
  16. A TREK TO RARA DAHA LAKE WEST NEPAL, 1972
    (SUMANT R. SHAH)
  17. MOUNTAIN BY MOONLIGHT -THE ASCENT OF CHANGABANG, 1974
    (BALWANT SINGH SANDHU)
  18. THE ASCENT OF UJA TIRCHE, 1974
    (SHYAMAL CHAKRABORTY)
  19. RESCUE ON DEVTOLI, 1974
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  20. THE ASCENT OF CHAUDHARA, 1973
    (SUBHASH DESAI)
  21. HOMAGE TO SASER KANGRI, THE 'YELLOW MOUNTAIN', 1973
    (CMDR. JOGINDER SINGH)
  22. THE ARMY MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION HIMACHAL PRADESH EXPEDITION 1973
    (MAJOR J. W. FLEMING)
  23. THE A.M. A. ROUTE ON INDRASAN, 1973
    (CAPTAIN HENRY DAY)
  24. THE FIRST ASCENT OF BRAMMAH, 1973
    (CHRIS BONINGTON)
  25. PEAKS, PASSES AND PHABRANG, 1974
    (JOHN ALLEN)
  26. SOUTH PARBATI, 1973
    (ROB COLLISTER)
  27. RAKAPOSHI (7788 m.) 1973
    (K. M. HERRLIGKOFFER)
  28. WAKHAN, 1971
    (BRUNO TUSCAN)
  29. THE JURM VALLEY MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION, 1973
    (DR. ARTURO BERGAMASCHI)
  30. TIRICH MIR, 1973
    (JOSE MA MONTFORT)
  31. THE SOLOTHURNER HINDU KUSH EXPEDITION, 1973
    (OTTO ZBINDEN)
  32. QUIET CRISIS IN THE HIMALAYA
    (A. D. MODDIE)
  33. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  34. OBITUARY
  35. BOOK REVIEWS
  36. CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1973

EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

THE NANGA PARBAT - 1970 CONTROVERSY

By Soli S. Mehta

IN the Himalayan Journal Vol. XXXI-1971, I had published an article "Odyssey on Nanga Parbat" by Reinhold Messner. The article as received from the translater appeared to be of some human interest and to an extent exciting from the mountaineering point of view. Little did I realise that there was raging at that time a tremendous controversy involving the law courts and a display of the most ugly face of mountaineering to the public.

Recently I received a letter from Dr. Karl M. Herriigkoffer and I quote an extract verbatim:

"In the edition of 1971, volume XXXI, page 275, there is especially the article "ODYSSEY ON NANGA PARBAT", written by Reinhold Messner, of great interest to us. I want to inform you that this account by Reinhold Messner is not in accordance with the true facts which was found out and stated during several judicial hearings, and after that the publication was forbidden. In order to give both sides an equal chance we would recommend to publish certain parts from my book "KAMPF UND SIEG AM NANGA PARBAT", in which most of the expeditions-members described their impression about the real facts, in the same form as you published the article by Reinhold Messner.

As far as the book review of "DIE ROTE RAKETE AM NANGA PARBAT" by Reinhold Messner is concerned, I want to inform you that according to judgment of the court of justice also the publication of this book is forbidden, and I ask to make this known. I also ask you to publish a book review of my book "Kampf and Sieg am Nanga Parbat" in the same form as the one of Reinhold Messner's book. For this purpose I will send one copy of my book to you. It is written in German but we will mark the important parts so that a translation would not cause too great a difficulty for you.

In a series of court cases Reinhold Messner had accused Dr. Herrligkoffer on a variety of charges - these involved everything from faulty equipment, inadequate medicines, no insurance of members to bungling the administration of the expedition, callous behaviour towards Reinhold's medical treatment, neglect of courtesy to his family in connection with his brother Gun ther's death, too early giving up the search for the Messner brothers and not conforming to the Pakistan Government's expedition rules.

The Bavarian State Court was unable to find sufficient proof to substantiate any of Messner's accusations and in recent judgments have forbidden him to continue this line of action by word or in print.

Countering all this, Dr. Herrligkoffer has been able to ban Messner's book "Die Rote Rakete am Nanga Parbat" (which was reviewed in HJ Vol. XXXI-1971) and has sued him for breach of expedition contract which prohibits members from publishing or printing anything on their own without permission (this is to protect other publishing contracts entered into by the expedition in exchange of financial assistance). Dr. Herrligkoffer also obtained Court orders impounding various issues of the "Alpinismus", "Der Spigel" and "Suddeutsche Zeitung" which carried articles in contravention of the above rule.

I am afraid I find it particularly sad and futile to go into the details that have been provided and as a totally neutral bystander ask my readers to note the bare facts of the controversy which had best be forgotten. But one thing stands out clearly -if this kind of development and wrangles are to be a more common feature of expeditions to great mountains then a degree in law will have to be an essential criterion for team membership! As a climber I would normally be careful in choosing my companions and leader before I decide to join the expedition - during the expedition the team work and the leader's orders are more important than my personal ambitions and foibles - after the expedition I would rejoice in the friendships made or strengthened and if that is not the case then I would decide not to climb with them any more, shut up, and hold my peace.

CHITRAL, 1971

By W. Stefan
1 JULY 1971: Met Harold Nave and Dieter Eger, my Austrian friends in Peshawar.

4 July: Travelled from Chitral to Kuragh (44 miles), in a hired jeep, via Utul (8,500 ft.).

6 July: Walked over the Zani An (12,200 ft.) with the help of Utul porters to Shagram (9,200 ft.), and persuaded them to carry on to the next suitable camping ground - Chor Baisum (12,600 ft.).

7 July: Moved up the Tirich Glacier to the Istor-o-Nal B.C. of the Yugoslavian Expedition of 1971. Paid off most of the porters who refused to carry further. Commenced transport of loads to the B.C. for Noshaq (Babu Camp - 15,200 ft.).

During the next tw7o days established a camp on the glacier plateau under the Ghul Lasht Zom south ridge at 18,400 ft.

13 July: Climbed Ghul lasht Zom via the south ridge which we approached over a snow slope, reaching the summit at 3 p.m.

After a day's rest we climbed Ghul Lasht Zom south (20,800 ft.) by an early route in five hours from the camp. Descended to B.C.

17 July: Established camp at 17,300 ft. on the right bank of the glacier coming from the col between Noshaq and Nobaisum Zom.

20 July: Set up Camp I at 20,600 ft. on the lower part of a crevasse in the middle of the steep slope leading to the rocky ridge which we selected for the ascent of Noshaq.

22 July: Reached the ridge by 9-30 a.m. - good climbable granite and slate pitches. Camp II at 23,200 ft. at the upper end of the rocky ridge.

23 July: In three hours reached the top of Noshaq Myani (c. 24,300 ft.) over a snow ridge. Another hour over a plateau and a gentle slope covered with rocks brought us to the main summit of Noshaq (24,580 ft.).

Broke up Camp II on the way down and reached Camp I by 4 p.m.

24 July: Persuaded Dieter to climb Aspe Safed I before descending to B.C. Harold remained at the Camp. In two hours we reached the col between Aspe Safed and Noshaq. A ridge of very bad rock led us to the top (c. 21,400 ft.).

We descended from Camp I later that afternoon over glacier and the next day found us at Babu Camp.

Nosaq from South showing route of ascent.

Nosaq from South showing route of ascent.



KAGHAN, 1972

By W. Stefan

STARTING from Tunga-Gali Trevor Braham, Frieder Ho- flin, my wife and I reached Naran after an adventurous landrover drive in the afternoon of the 17 June 1972. Here,

Norman Norris with his wife Jean joined us and our party was complete.

18 June: We left early his morning for the Saif ul Mulk lake. Trevor and I left before 6 a.m. for the first reconnaissance after a night in an empty room of the still closed Rest House. Passing the partly ice-covered lake we followed the Saif ul Muluk Katha (valley) and reached a suitable camping site at about 12,000 ft. after 3 hours' walk. We marked the site for our friends and climbed up to the col between the Saif ul Muluk Glacier and the west Siran Glacier (appr. 14,000 ft.). We decided to put up a camp on the west Siran Glacier and to try Siran II from there.

20 June: We established a camp on the Siran Glacier. In the meantime Trevor climbed a small peak above our camp together with Sultan, the only porter who stayed with us for the night. 21 June: Norman had trouble with his knee, so he and Jean remained at the Base Camp. The others shifted to the Siran Glacier.

22 June: Not far from the tent a steep snow face leads up to the plateau under the north-west slope of the summit. After two hours climb with crampons over steep neve we stood on an open saddle at appr. 15,000 ft. The weather seemed to hold out and we followed the north-west slope to the top of Siran II which we reached at 10 a.m. (16,445 ft.) . We found a broken bottle on the last rocks of the south-west ridge which was most likely the route taken by the two young British climbers during the first ascent in 1964. At 12-30 p.m. we were back at the camp.

23 June: It should have been a day off, but we all climbed a small peak (approx. 14,500 ft.) above our Base Camp.

24 June: Frieder and I left for Mali ka Parbat while our friends were packing up. On a spur on the west face we established a camp at appr. 14,000 ft., protected against falling stones and ice. Since the first ascent by Willoughby and Price in 1940 Mali ka Parbat has not been climbed again, though the north peak 17,135 ft. was climbed in 1967.

25 June: At 6-15 a.m. we started from the tent already roped. Steep snow and ice slopes led us to a rocky barrier over which we reached the upper snow field at appr. 15,500 ft. After a short rest we climbed in two hours to the saddle between Mali ka Parbat main and north peak. Higher up we found hard ice under the soft snow. From the snowy top we had to climb down 13 to a col and continue over a rocky ridge to the main summit 17,356 ft. (12-45 p.m.).

27 June: Trevor had instructed Sultan to return from Naran to the Base Camp. He arrived early the next morning and had to carry most of our luggage down. We traversed the col to the Siran Glacier and picked up the tent, which we left behind after our Siran II climb. After a lot of effort we managed to level a small platform for our tent, on a rocky island, at the foot of the unclimbed Siran I.

28 June: We left the Camp at 5-30 a.m. In an hour we reached the col between Siran I 8c II. As we climbed a steep couloir covered with hard neve left of the south ridge followed by a snow slope, we were already in fog. The orientation, was difficult, but we still managed to find an easy route through the rocky face, dividing the lower and the upper part of the ridge. Over a snow slope and a granite ridge, we reached the rocky summit, the highest of the Siran peaks (16,505 ft.) at 8-15 a.m. At 11-30 a.m. we were back at the tent. Before we managed to pack up our rucksacks, snowfall started, and we had to walk through the Siran Nar (valley) under heavy rain for 31- hours before we reached the shepherds' huts at Siran. 29 June: We visied the Khaba Nar in the morning before descending towards Buttakuncli. The next day we walked back to Naran as the road was still blocked through avalanches and landslides.


KOHE BANDAKA, 1973

Hindu Kush Expedition of the Jungmajmschaft section of D.A.V.

By Ulrich Kamm

Members: Ulrich Kamm (leader), Ulrich Eberhardt, Peter Fortsch, Gunther Hennemann, Norbert Menzel, Hildegarcl Zilbauer.

IN the middle of July we started for our distant destination -Afghanistan. From Kabul, we went on to Kunduz, and from there in a three days' trip by a hired lorry via Faizabad to Hazara e Said. After half a day of negotiations with the horse- drivers we came to an agreement about the fee for the pack- animals. In six days time, when we had to change the animals twice; we reached our Base Camp in Sakhi valley, at the bottom of Koh-e-Bandaka, at a height of 4100 m.

The weather being permanently fine, we achieved several excellent alpine climbs during the following two and a half weeks. Firstly, I must mention the second ascent (but first ascent of the north ridge) of Koh-e-Bandaka. n. (6725 m.) by Eberhardt and Hennemann, in eight days' time, 20 to 28 August, 26 August on top. This is a rather difficult route, as the rocks are very brittle. Menzel and Fortsch failed in climbing the main

summit (6843 m.) along the western ridge (usual route) at an altitude of 6500 m., because of sickness. They succeeded, however, in achieveing the first ascent of the south peak (6030 - 50 m.) of P. 6044, combined with a crossing, and the second ascent of the north peak (6044 rn.). 29 August to 2 September, 31 August on top. Miss Zilbauer wras the first woman to reach the main summit of the Koh-e-Bandaka (6843 m.), together writh myself. This was the thirteenth ascent of this mountain. We did the ascent over the western ridge, 20 to 26 August, 24 on top. When descending, we were forced by darkness to pass the night at an altitude of 6700 m. in a bivouac. One week later the two of us also succeeded in doing the eighth climb of Koh-e-Ka-Safed (6192 m.) from 29 August to 4 September, 2 September on top. When climbing, we had to fight through almost two meter high neve penitente. Finally, Miss Zilbauer and I made the first ascent of the highest summit of the Iblar mountains, namely, P.5638, from 29 August to 4 September, 1 September on top. After these successful ascents we started our long way home, satisfied and in good health.

(Photo. U. Kamm) 	North ridge of Kohe Bandaka North on the left.

(Photo. U. Kamm) North ridge of Kohe Bandaka North on the left.



Kohe Ka Safed seen from c. 5,700 m. The ascent was by the ridge on the left.   (Photo: U. Kamm)

Kohe Ka Safed seen from c. 5,700 m. The ascent was by the ridge on the left. (Photo: U. Kamm)



(Photo: U. Kamm)  The twin summits of Pt. 5,638, the highest in the Iblar range

(Photo: U. Kamm) The twin summits of Pt. 5,638, the highest in the Iblar range




FIRST WINTER ASCENT OF NOSHAO, 1973

By Andrzej Kus

A WINTER ascent of a high peak can be most certainly classed as an outstanding feat, Noshaq (7492 m.) and its surrounding area has been a favourite ground for many first ascents over different routes, but expeditions in the winter are few and none of them had success until this Polish H.K. Expedition.

The members comprised A. Zawada (leader), M. Bundy, B. Czechowski, R. Dmoch, M. Fijalkowski, W. jedlinsky, J. Koisar, J. Mierzejewski, T. Piotrowski and L. Wozniak.

The expedition established Base Camp at 3420 m. on the Pud Ghar meadows in the Qadzi Deh valley on 21 January. Five high camps were set up along the normal route via the west shoulder of Noshaq. Camp V was established at 6700 m. by Zawada and Piotrowski on 12 February.

To avoid strong winds, they climbed upto late in the evening next day and reached the summit by moonlight at 23-30 hours on 13 February. Theromometer read 48°C. The average temperatures at lower camps in the night were~~35°C. The climbers also discovered some remains of the 1971 Bulgarian tragedy near Camp V.

MIR SAMIR, 1973

The Tiroler H. K. Jubilee Expedition

By Hans Penz

ON 2 June we left Kabul for Dasht-Rewat. After Dehe Parian we took the diversion through Wuryaj valley into the Canak valley. We set up our B.C. at 4600 m. and set up another high camp at 5150 m.

On 14 June Schillfahrt, Haid and myself started climbing the first pillar and reached its top - working through the evening to reach the snow-couloir - returning to the high camp.

The next day we again traced our path of the previous day and reached the top of the couloir across the first pillar. From here we started our climb and reached the summit at 17-30 hrs. During the night we returned directly through the couloir.

The south-west pillar of Mir Samir (5809 m.) afforded a delightful climb on excellent rock and exposure.

We also climbed four other peaks in the neighbourhood including a first ascent of the west ridge of Salkafar (5180 m.) - this stands close to and south-west of Mir Samir. Members: H. Penz (leader), Dr. T. Ljubanovic, P. Schillfahrt, A. Haid and W. Venier.

Mir Samir showing route of ascent

Mir Samir showing route of ascent



MANASLU, 1973

THE team comprised James Garcia Orts (leader), A. A. Pacheco, S. R. Martinez, M. A. Silio, C. S. Fontan, C. M. Repiso, J. L. Martine, A. M. Rascon, L. M. Rodrigo, L. B. Durand, G. B Garcia and P. D. Miguel.

We left Kathmandu on 7-9-73 - arrived at Sama village on 19-9-73 and established Base Camp at 4350 m. During the next week or so we progressed upwards along the original Japanese route placing Camp I (5150 m.) on the 22nd and Camp II (5600 m.) on the 29th of September. We prepared the route upto 6100 in. where we dumped some gear and provisions.

Then followed bad weather - Camps I and II were both enveloped in avalanches but were luckily unmanned at the time as all of us were at Base Camp. By the time the weather cleared around mid October, it was time to go home. We returned to Kathmandu on 20 October,

PUMORI. 1975

By Shigeyuki Nakamura

OUR Base Gamp was established on 7 April at 5300 m. just under the south face. Camp I was set up the next day at 5800 m. on the glacier that leads to the col on the south ridge,, using about 350 m. of fixed rope the col was reached (6200 m.) and Camp II established on it-13 April.

The south ridge was fixed with almost 600 m. of rope and the difficult ascent along this rock ridge progressed till we put up Camp III at a height of 6520 m. on 25 April.

From here the climb along the ridge continued and another 300 m. of rope were fixed upto the junction of the south ridge with the third rock spur that abuts the south face. On 30 April N. Shimosaka and T. Shingeno bivouacked at 7060 m. (altimeter reading) and at 07-33 hours on 1 May reached the sum mit of Pumori.

The weather which was good uptil now began to break and further ascents to the summit could not be attempted. The two ummiters were also compelled to bivouac again before reaching Camp III on 2 May.

Members: S. Nakamura (leader), T. Mochizuki, T. Mizuno, f. Nakamura, T. Shigeno, Y. Kanoh, K. Yamamoto, S. Kimura, K. Nagura, N. Shimosaka, H. Imanishi, E. Watanabe and M. Terada.

Pumori, South ridge on left.

Pumori, South ridge on left.




DHAULAGIRI III, 1973

By Klaus Schreckenbach

WE reached Pokhara in early September after four weeks of driving in a lorry and a mini bus. We went to Jomson in eight days and in another five days, with mules and yaks, we moved through the snow-free passes of Sangclala (5000 m.), La- Su (5300 m.) and Mu-la (5800 m.) to the Base Camp (4000 m.) below Mukut on the north of Dhaula Himal (21-9-73). On 27 September, the important Camp II (5300 m.) was pitched after we had crossed the difficult Chorten ridge. Camp I was situated further north of it at about 5000 m. Further camp-building was prevented by heavy snowfall that continued for ten clays. There was, in all, more than two metres of snowfall and three of our party in Camp II were engulfed in snow due to an avalanche. After two days of very slow and streneous walk we reached a suitable place for Camp III (5850 m.) . We built there a snow-cave for protection against wind and cold. After another day of bad weather, a group of three men reached Camp III on 15 October. Then in a forced climb they reached 7000 m., a height - difference of 1100 m., and bivoucked in the open. Flanked with ice, the west ridge of Dhaula III rose very steeply. Though our route appeared somewhat illogical, the gradual upward slant of this huge slope saved us from the difficulties in the neighbouring glacier and made it possible for us to cover a big distance to Camp I.

Two people climbed down while Saler built a snow-cave as Camp IV on the foot of the west ridge of Dhaula III. Schreckenbach and Habert went ahead of him at Camp IV on the next day. A defective cooker and a stormy weather compelled us to decide either to attack the peak immediately or to climb down. So, on 20 October a group of 3 people started off for the summit. A hurricane-type storm blew and, as a result, a huge amount of snow piled up on the ridges in flag-like shapes. However, the sky was cloudless and the condition of the snow was good. The planned climb along the west ridge was, however, rendered impossible by the storm. Therefore, they climbed through the rocky south-west wall in the fall line of the summit. At 12-30 p.m. three members of the group together stood on the summit. But the storm allowed them a stay of only 10 minutes. Through the whirlpool of the snow storm that raged, the surrounding peaks could be seen as though through a veil. After an unpleasant night in Camp IV without food and drink, they climbed down the next day to Camp II. The following day, Hiller, Gizycki, Sussmilch and Sirdar Norbu reached Camp IV. On 23 October they also stood on the summit and made our success complete. They could mave along the west ridge in windless weather.

Members: K. Schreckenbach (leader), G. Habert, H. Saler, K. Sussmilch, P. von Gizycki, K. Hiller and B. Schreckenbach.

Looking back at Dhaula IV from near the summit of Dhaula III

Looking back at Dhaula IV from near the summit of Dhaula III



GANGSTANG, 1973

By Subash Roy
2
28 August: Started trekking from Keylang - set up first transit Camp at about 11,200 ft. The second Transit Camp was on the east bank of Billing Lumpa Nalla at roughly 13,000 ft.

30 August: Set up Base Camp at 14,000 ft. and waited for two members to recover from illness.

2 September: Established A.B.C. at about 16,000 ft. and on the following day we set up Camp I at 17,500 ft. After negotiating a rocky face and a ridge we put up our last Camp at 18,700 ft. on the 4th.

5 September: K. Aclitya, three H.A.P.s and myself launched the summit attempt at 5 a.m. At about 10 a.m. we reached the foot of the final snow-cone and to avoid an avalanche point, turned left towards the west. The last 1,000 feet was a 60° slope which we attacked directly. At 12-55 p.m. we were on the summit.

We were unfortunate to lose faithful porter Sonam Ladakhi who was drowned while cross the Billing Lumpa Nalla during the return trip - this greatly dulled the edge of satisfaction one would have on a happy holiday.

SPANISH ANNAPURNA EXPEDITION, 1974

By Jose - Manuel Anglada

WE reach Pokhara on 9 March and wait one week to recruit porters and rearrange loads.

Pokhara to Chhoya - 7 days. The Thulobugin pass into the Mristi Khola is snow-bound and most of the porters refuse to go further.

After a lot of ferrying with a reduced strength of porters, B.C. is established on 4 April, Camp I is placed at 5200 m. on the main glacier. On 16 April Camp II is set up about a mile from the north face of Annapurna - it is removed and re-erected in a crevasse after an avalanche blast has knocked it down. From Camp II the north ridge of Annapurna east is followed, and at 6500 m. Camp III is established on that very ridge, on 22 April. The Sherpas refuse to go further than Camp II and the three who are persuaded to do so only carry loads of 10-12 kg. while all the members carry double that weight.

On 24 April, the route is explored upto 6900 m. and some provision and equipment dumped there. On 26 April, Camp IV is established at 7150 m. - Anglada, Civis and Pons stay the night - the rest return to Camp III and act as support. On the 28th, the three summiters establish Camp V at 7490, and the next day leave at 7 a.m. for the summit. They follow the ridge leading direct to Annapurna east. At midday a short electric storm and a snow storm with winds slows down the advance but the weather improves later. They reach the summit at 9 p.m.--there is no wind at all - the moon gives them sufficient light to see the sanctuary and all the neighbouring mountains. The temperature is - 38°C.

The bivouac on their way down when the moon disappears at 4 a.m. - finally reaching Camp V at 6 a.m. on 30 April: later that day they sleep in Camp IV. All return to B.C. by 3 May. the first eight thousander for Spanish mountaineering.

Members: J. M. Anglada (leader), E. Civis, J. Pons, J. Perez, M. Martin, E. Blanchard, M. Anglada, A. Villena and


Annapurna East and route of ascent.

Annapurna East and route of ascent.



ANNAPURNA II, 1974

Expedition of the D.A.V. - Section Oberland

By Ulrich Kamm

1974 was the 75th Anniversary year for the Section Oberland and we hoped celebrate this occasion with a Himalayan venture.

Our equipment was brought to Nepal overland by Huttl, Leutgab and myself - the rest met us in Kathmandu having flown out.

We left Kathmandu on 11 March and started walking from Dumre (on the Kathmandu-Pokhara road). Our B.C. was placed at S600 m. up the Salatang Khola overlooking the north side of the Annapurna II and IV massif.

Camp I was established by 22 March at the bottom of an overhanging wall of rock at 4200 m. Camp II was at 5050 m. on a large plateau. Camp III required some fixed ropes on the way and which ran along the northern ice pillar lying at 40°-50°. Blizzards slowed down progress and the camp was established only on 6 April. After setting up Camp IV (6950 m.) a week of bad weather held us up. Gruber, Huttl and Leutgab finally reached the crest connecting Annapurna II and IV and established Camp V at 7370 m. (26 April).

As they could not look along the 2 km. ridge to the summit of Annapurna II, they climbed nearby Annapurna IV (7525 m.) in the easy hour to investigate and determine the route. That evening the Sherpa Sirdar informed the laision officer over the walkie-talkie of our ascent. The liaison officer ordered a halt to further progress - this was confirmed three days later by the Foreign Ministry who ordered the total cancellation of the expedition -- this, more than the fine and ban which followed, was the greater punishment, as the weather turned ideal and we would have surely reached our target. We left B.C. on 8 May and during the ten days' march to Dumre our porters had a brawl one night, and on another morning struck work.

Members: P. Bednar (leader), U. Kamm (dep. leader), Dr. P. Weidenthaler, U. Eberhardt, H. Centner, G. Gruber, PL Huttl and F. Leutgab.

Camp IV with West ridge leading to Annapurna II.

Camp IV with West ridge leading to Annapurna II.



PEAK 29 SOUTH-WEST WALL, 1974

By Yoshikazu Furukawa

THE first time we looked at the formidable South-west Wall of Pk. 29 was in a photograph taken in 1961 by the Osaka University Expedition led by G. Shinoda which was at the time searching for a route to the summit.

Base Camp was sited at the tip of Tulangi Glacier on 3 March, at a height of 12,140 ft. From the study of photographs we had expected the Wall to yield to some weaknesses in its defence and allow us a fairly easy passage atleast as far as the South Peak (at the top of the Wall at 24,279 ft.) - we had planned our climbing gear accordingly.

Our Camp II was established on 15th March at the foot of an ice ridge at 16,405 ft. The ice ridge reared up another 2,625 ft. in a knife edge of hard ice and steep rock, which required progressing upward only by striding it with legs dangling on either side. This upset a lot of our calculations - rock pitons and snow anchors were totally useless and only ice pitons could be used. Progress became slow and laboured and especially above Camp III the difficulties increased, with no place to site camps. With a great deal of effort we constructed Camp IV on 27 March at a height of 19,030 ft., just below an overhang - stonefalls now adding to our problems.

The route continued upwards in the same vein in one mighty continuous sweep - no possible camp sites could be gleaned. Much more time than we had at our disposal would be required to tackle this brilliant and challenging problem. I think that the post monsoon would be a safer period to tackle this Wall - ice pitons would not get loose in the rising temperatures and the autumn cold would keep the loose rocks firmly fixed. One needs to be prepared to meet ice rather than snow, all the way to the top.

Pk. 29- South west wall and route attempted

Pk. 29- South west wall and route attempted



THE AUSTRIO-GERMAN LHOTSE EXPEDITION, 1974

AND THE ASCENT OF SHARTSE

By Kurt Diemberger

THE original intention was to scale Lhotse from the Khum- bu side by a new route, but the objections raised by the Spanish expedition to Everest was upheld and an alternative was offered by the Nepalese authorities. This was to attempt the peak from the east - from the Barun Glacier. This would entail a high ridge route encampassing the ascent of three high peaks on the way - Shartse (7502 m.), Peak 38 (7589 m.) and Lhotse Shar (8383 m.) the south ridge of Shartse itself is 4 km. long.

We flew to Tumlingtar; on 18 March and reached the Barun valley by a 160 km. march through the Aran and across Kongen La (4300 m.) B.C. was established at 5400 on the south moraine the upper Barun Glacier at 5400 m.

We found the east ridge far too steep and full of wild towers. The south ridge also has these difficulties but higher up, at about 6700 m,, the technical problems appeared to ease and only a 100 m. rock barrier at about 7200 m. poses as a hurdle.

We pitched Camp I at about 5750 m. on the upper edge of the glacier basin on 13 April. Camp II was established just below Barun La (6220 m.). During the next three weeks we try and place a string of camps - Camp III at 6400 m. - Camp IV at 6500 m. - Camp V at 6800 m. on 8 May. s Then follows bad weather and storms which bury most of the camps. It is 18 May and the Austrians have given up their attempt in nearby Makalu. Hermann Warth, Sherpa Nawang Tenzing and I climb to Camp III. The next day we re-erect Camp IV in a niche. Nawang Tenzing remains at this Camp while we proceed to Camp V on 20 May, which is reached after an emergency bivouac in a storm only on the 21st. On 22 May a bivouac tent serves for Camp VI at 7100 m.

On 23rd May we have a 15 hour day - reaching the summit of Shartse at 13.45 hrs. The exploration is complete - a clear view of the ridge route to Lhotse can be seen. Much good luck to him who can go further.


SHISPARE CLIMBED, 1974

The Polish - German Karakoram Expedition

By Janusz Kurczab

Members: J. Kurczab (leader), L. Cichy, M. Dabrowski, M. Grochowski, J. Holnicki-Szulo, P. Kintopf (doctor), R. Marcjoniak, A. Mlynarczyk, M. Piatkowski, J. Po- reba, M. Albanus, H. Bleicher, H. Borchess and H. Oberhofer.

SHISPARE (7619 m.) lies in the Batura Mustagh region. A preliminary recce revealed that the most promising route lay along the east ridge which can be attained by moving over the vast pillar sloping down to the Pasu Glacier.

We arrived by truck at Pasu village in the Hunza valley - sited at the mouth of the Pasu and Batura Glacier. Base Camp was established on 28 June on the lateral moraine of the Pasu Glaceir after having crossed the Batura Glacier over a ridge called Patundas (4200 m.).

Camp I was set up on 30 June at 4850 m. at the foot of the rock pillars. After overcoming considerable technical difficulties (rock climbing upto IV) necessitating 1500 m. of fixed rope, Camp II was set up at 5700 m. During this period Borchers had a lucky escape when he fell of the rock and plunged 500 m. down to the glacial slope - be sustained only minor injuries and was brought safely to Base. On 10 July, Camp III was set up at 6250 m. after gaining the crest dividing the Pasu and Ghulkin Glaciers.

On 20 July, 8 members left Camp III and climbed the slopes of Shispare upto 6750 m. where they established Camp IV. The next day they set out for the summit. By noon they reached a 14 snow plateau (c. 6900 m.) between Shispare and an unnamed summit (7090 m.), J. Kurczab climbed solo to this unnamed peak - reaching it at 4-30 p.m. (we named it Ghenta Peak - "Ghenta"-Bell). The remaining seven members reached Shispare summit at 6-30 p.m. along a good snow slope at 45°. The summiters were Bleicher, Cichy, Groehowski, Holnick-Szalc, Mlynarczyk, Oberhofer and Poreba.

Unfortunately, the second summit attempt had to be called off when an avalanche 200 m. above Camp II swept Albanus and Borchers off and the latter was burried in one of the crevasses - his body could not be found.

The Base was wound up on 2 August and we returned to Pasu across the lower part of the Pasu Glacier which was more convenient than the one leading across Patundas and the Batura Glaciers.

as seen from the North. The route of ascent ied via the ridge on the left sky line.

as seen from the North. The route of ascent ied via the ridge on the left sky line.



KALINDI PEAK (20,020 ft.)

In H. J. Vol. XXXII, page 103, ascents of 'Kalindi 19882 ft. and 'Suvarna 20020 ft/ were reported in an article by G. R. Patwardhan. He and the leader of the expedition, K. G. Sambhus now write :

"Mr. j. C. Nanavati had studied the photographs of our 1971 Kalindi Expedition, of Himalayan Federation's 1973 Expedition, of Poona-Kirkee Bharat Scout Expedition 1974 and of Prof. C. K. Mitra's 1975 Expedition. All the expeditions were in the same region that of our 1971 Expedition had moved in. After a study Mr. J. C. Nanavati came to the conclusion that the peaks climbed by us were not Pt. 20020' northwards of Kalindi Khal on the main Bhagirathi-Alaknanda divide as we thought but were two rocky features on a high spur dividing Kalindi glacier at its head.

"We have studied these photographs. Our error initially was the misidentification of Pt. 20280' as Pt. 21140' 'Avalanche Peak'. And so the summitters of our expedition mistook a higher part of the Kalindi glacier as the Kalindi Khal itself and they climbed two points towards the north-west on a rocky divide. These were definitely not Kalindi 20020' nor 20280 footer. We are convinced of the error of identification by our expedition and wish to set the record straight as above."

It may be clarified that Pt. 20,020 ft. is known as Kalindi Peak being NW of Kalindi Khal 19,510 ft.

EXPEDITIONS 1971 TO 1974

To make this section as comprehensive as possible some expeditions as ur back as 1971 are also noted. The bulk however takes in 1973 and 974 - Editor.

EXPEDITIONS 1971
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
KULU
1 i Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft.-5,928 m.) American climbed 11.7.71 from the West (Ravi river) and South ridge
HINDU KUSH
1. Mir Samir Ulster B, Slader Climbed in July 1971 by two new routes - by S.W. couloir and by -S.W. face
EXPEDITIONS1972

NEPAL
1. Kangde-Ri (East Peak) (19,991 ft. 6,093 m.) Kankarmu (c. 19,000 ft.) lying South of Kongde- Ri Allgau-Kempten Sekt. of D. A.V. First ascent

Solo ascent by F. Dursehmidt
2. Jaluntse

(19,390 ft.-5,910 m.)
1st ascent 21.3-72, Solo by H. Storck
Jalungkang (18,865 ft.-5,750 m.) Zirgokang (18,983 ft.-5,786 m.) Chadirgo

(18,242 ft.-5,560m.) Kadakomago (19,849 ft.-6,050 m.)

Singkar

(20,544 ft.-6,262 m.) 20,647 ft. (6,293 m.)
German team from Munich in the Rolwaling Himal - Climbed 28.3.72

Climbed 28.3.72

Climbed 28.3.72 1st ascent by N.W. face Climbed by S.W. ridge

Climbed
3. Chobutse (21,982 ft.-6,700 m.) Pt. 17,389 ft. 5,300 m.)

lying N. of Kang Pom Ri . Pt. 20,177 ft. (6,150 m.) lying S. of Takargo Pimu (20,670 ft.- 6,300 m.) Chugimago (c. 20,660 ft.- 6,287 m.)
German team in the Rolwaling Himal W. Weinziegrl

9
Climbed 24.4.72

Climbed 12.4.72

Climbed 6.5.72

repeated 7.5.72

Climbed 7.5.72 Attempted
GARHWAL
1. Pk. 19,082 ft. lying

S. of Tharkot
Team from Calcutta P.Chowdhury

1 ?
Climbed 15.10.72
KULU
1. Pk. 20,101ft. in

Parbati Valley
Univ. of Aston,

Birmingham
- Attempted
KASHMIR
1. Tuliyan Pk.

(15,900 ft.)

Shiva (16,500 ft.) )

Vishnu (16,700 ft.)

Brama (16,300 ft.)
American & Kashmiri team - Climbed

All climbed from the N. from a camp

above Shishnag Lake
HINDU KUSH
1. Qadzi Deh Valley Kharposhte Yakhi

(5,698 m.) Aspe Safed I

(6,507 m.) Noshaq (West)

(7,250 m.) Noshaq (main)

(7,492 m.)
Norwegian H. K. Expdn. D. Isles Climbed 25 and 26.7.72

Climbed1.8.72 Climbed 8.8.72

Climbed 11.8.72
2. Qadzi Deh Valley

Kharposhte Yakhi

(5,698 m.)

Aspe Safed I

(6,507 m.)

Noshaq (middlfe

Summit)

(c. 7,400 m.)

Noshaq (main)

(7,492 m.)
American

H. K. Expdn.
D. J. Graber
Climbed 7.8.72
Climbed 14.8.72
Climbed
Climbed 12.8.72
3. Qadzi Deh Valley

Kharposhte Yakhi

(5,698 m.)

Aspe Safed I

(6,507 m.)

Noshaq (main)

(7,492 m.)
Italian

H. K. Expdn.
B. Tenti
Climbed
Climbed
Climbed 11 and
15.8.72
4. Urgunte Bala Valley

Pt. 5,700 m. (E. of

Wala 582)

Kohe Avval

(5,800 m.)

Akher Chagh

(7,020 m.)
Polish

H. K. Expedn.
R. Koziol Climbed 2/5/ 15.8.72

Climbed 10/15.8.72

by W. ridge

Climbed 21.8.72

and 5.9.72 by
Direttisima up

N.W. face

Climbed 28.8.7

by new route

by N. ridge

Climbed 5.9.72
Kohe Tez

(7,015 m.)

Shayoz Zom

(6,905 m.)
5. Ishmurg Valley Kohe Academica (5,300 m.) Kohe Anosha (5,550 m.)

Kohe Spartakiada

(5,200 m.)

Kohe Setara

(6,060 m.)

Kohe Bakhera W.

(6,240 m.)

Kohe Bakhera E.

(6,270 m.)

Lunkho-e Kuchek

(6,430 m.)

Kohe Ariana

(6,130 m.)

Kohe Hevad

(6,849 m.)
Swiss

H. K. Expdn.
W. Giger 2nd ascent 12.7.72 2nd ascent 15/16.7.72 2nd

Ascent 17.7.72

2nd ascent

22.7.72 (first by

S. ridge)

1st ascent

28.7.72

1st ascent

29.7.72

1st ascent

11.8.72

2nd ascent

15.8.72

5 th ascent

19.8.72
6. Kohe Keshnikhan (6,755 m.) Swiss A. C. H. K. Expdn. M. Ebnetter Climbed 16.7.72 and on 17.7.72 by a new route' up N.E. ridge
7. Agram Valley, Wakhan Kohe Degoll (5,240 m.) Kohe Tanhaa (5,140 m.) Kohe Nan malum (5,360 m.) French

H. K. Expdn.
D. Reqnaud Climbed Climbed Climbed
8. Kohe Baba (5,140 m.) French - Climbed on 18 and 19.8.72
(Also climbed by the Tokyo Metropolitan Univ. team)
9. Mir Samir

(5,809 m.)
American A. Steck Climbed 4.8.72 by new route up S. buttress direct
EXPEDITIONS 1973

MEPAL
Post-monsoon
1. Everest

(29,028 ft.-8,848 m.)
Jap. Mt. Everest Expdn. 1973 R. Hashimoto Climbed 26.10.73 by S. col route S.W. face attempted
2. Annapurna I (26,545 ft.-8,090 m.) Italian G. Machetto Attempted
3. Dhaulagiri III (25,312 £t.-7,7l5 m.) Munich Sekt o£ D.A.V. K. Schreken- bach 1st ascent 20.10.73 Repeated 23.10.73
4. Manaslu

(26,760 ft.-8,156 m.)
Spanish J. G. Orts Attempted
5. Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 ft.-7,246 m.) Yokkaichi A.C. K. Noro Attempted
6. Serku Dholma (20,430 ft.-6,227 m.) Kitasato Univ. Dr. E. Kawa- mura 1st ascent 30.10.73
7. Kangbachen (25,925 ft.-7,902 m.) Rikko Univ. Y. Sakai Attempted
8. Dhaulagiri IV (25,133ft.-7,660 m.) British A. P. Johnson Attempted
9. Parchomo (Rolwaling) (20,730 ft.-6,319 m.) Swedish Climbed Solo by Mrs. L. Karlkvist
10. Hiunchuli Patan (c. 19,600 ft.) (28°55'N, 82°42'E) Oxford Univ. Attempted
GARHWAL
1. Kalindi Pk. (20,020 ft.-6,102 m.) Him. Federation, Calcutta B. Das Climbed 15.7.73
2. Uja Tirche (20.350 ft.-6,203 m.) Him. Assoc., Calcutta S. Cliakra- borty 2nd ascent 15.10.73
3. Vasuki Parbat (22,285 ft.-6,793 m.) I.T.B.P, L.P.

Semwell
Climbed 2.10.78 '
4. Mahalaya Parbat (19,330 ft.-5,892 m.) Small team from Poona G. R.

Patwardhan
Climbed 8.6.73
5. Mandani Parbat (20,320 ft.-6,194 m.) Climbed 10.6.73
KULU - LAHUL - CHAMBA - SPITI
1. Mulkila

(21,380 ft.-6,517 m.)
Swedish R. of

Klinteberg
Climbed 21.9.73
2. Ali Ratni Tibba (18,013 ft.-5,490 m.) British Climbed 4/6.6.73

by W. face Repeated by S.E. ridge
3. Deo Tibba (19,687 ffc.-6,001 m.) Climbed 7.7.73 from North and repeated by traverse from S. to N.
4. Indrasan

(20,410 ft.-6,221 m.)
Br. Army Assoc. Maj. G. Owens 4th ascent 7.7.73
5. Ali Ratni Tibba (18,013 ft.-5,490 m.) Climbed by S. face
6. Consolation Pk. (17,150 ft.-5,227 m.) Climbed 16.0.73
7. Ramchukar (17,400 ft.-5,304 m.) Climbed 18.6 73
8. Jagatsukh Pk. (17,200 ft.-5,243 m.) Climbed 26.5.73
9. Wangyal Pk. (16,400 ft.-5,000 m.) Climbed 27.5.73
10. Menthosa (21,140 ft.-6,444 m.) Climbed on 3/5/7 and 9.6.73
11. Duphao Jot (20,011 ft. 6,099 m.) British Army Assoc. Maj. J. W. Fleming Climbed 23.6.73
12. Baihali Jot (20,602 ft.-6,280 m.) Climbed 24.6.73
13. Gurkha Parbat (c. 19,500 ft.) Climbed 24.6.73
14. Pt. 20,101ft. .

Pt. 19,000 ft.

Pt. 18,700 ft.

Pt. 19,100 ft.

Pt. 19,200 ft.

Pt.18,800 ft.
Small British party in South Parbati area 1st ascent 17/18.9.73 Climbed 14.9.73 repeat 23.9.73 Climbed 15.9.73 by N. face Climbed 18.9.73 by N. ridge Climbed 22.9.73 by N. face Climbed 23.9.73 by N.W. ridge
15. Pt. 19,507 ft. on Chamba-Lahul divide I.T.B.P. T. S. Singh 1st ascent 23.7.73
16. Pt. 20,050 ft in Lahul I.T.B.P. S. Singh Climbed 23.8.73
17. Pt. 21,199 ft. on Spiti-Kinnaur divide near Mani- rang Pass Team from Calcutta A. Sen Climbed 8.10.73
18. Gangstang (20,218 ft.-6,162 m.) Team from Calcutta S. Roy Climbed 5.9.73
HINDU KUSH
1. Kohe Bandaka Zerago

(5,907 m.) also Known as Zerago Peak.
American J. Dozier 2nd ascent 27.8.73
2. Mir Samir (5,809 m.)

Salkafar

(5,180 m.) S.W. of Mir Samir Smerdor (5,150 m.)

Aunar (5,116 m.)
Tiroler H. K. Jubilee Expdn. H. Penz Climbed 15.6.73 by new route up S.W.

buttress; 18.6.73 via couloir

Climbed

Climbed

Climbed
3. Darrah-e-Sakhi
Valley
Kohe Bandaka 2nd ascent
North (6,725 m.) 26.8.73-first by
the N. ridge
D.A.V.
Pt. 6,044 m. (N. Sektion U. Karam 2nd ascent
of Bandaka N) Oberland 31.8.73-first
traverse of the
peak to its S.
Pk. and 1st
ascent of South
Pk. 29.8.73 to
2.9.73.
Kohe Bandaka 1