TIRICH MIR, 1973

JOSE MA MONTFORT

Spanish Expedition to Hindu Kush

By JOSE MA MONTFORT

ON 22 July, the members of the Spanish expedition erected the Base Camp at 4691 m., then, with the help of four porters, they established four high camps at 5300, 5800, 6200 and 6600 m. respectively, on the upper Tirich Glacier.

Uptil now the work had been relatively easy, apart from the acclimatization troubles and problems in keeping the different camps in good condition,

It took us more than seven days to prepare and provide the big face between the Camp IV and the shoulder of the Tirich Mir at 7200 m. It was a hard work in which we employed more than 650 m. of nylon rope.

On 7 August the face was completely ready to be climbed for the first time. A group started to climb up through a difficult chimney of 80 m. completely covered with ice, but these two men had to make a bivouac under it owing to their fatigue and the effects of the altitude.

The next day, 8 August, a second group of three men started the climb and managed to join the first group on a tiny platform. From therefore, four men began to climb the chimney which had grade V difficulty at a height of over seven thousand metres.

The weather had been good uptil then, but in the middle of the climb clouds began to appear and soon a typical storm began.

They went on up along a snow couloir which leads finally to the shoulder, but before reaching this they had to make a second bivouac on a tiny platform of rock. They were now at 7200 m. and the weather conditions became worse. So they have to spend the night out in the open air.

Next day two men had to return to Base Camp because of frostbite in their hands and feet. The remaining group moved up to the shoulder where they established Camp V (7250 m.).

At last, on 10 August, at 3-10 p.m. this group succeeded in setting up the pennants of Pakistan, Spain and Catalonia on the top of the Tirich Mir (7707 m.).

On 11 August another group made the second ascent of Dir Gol Zom (6778 m.), a beautiful mountain of ice and rock.

The same group, on 12 August moved up to the Tirich Mir shoulder and the next day reached the completely white beautiful summit of Tirich Mir West (7487 m.) and another mountain which has been named Manresa Zom (7352 m.)1
Our Club, Centro Excursionists de la Comarca de Bages of Manresa, whose members have been working for long time in organizing expeditions offers all its experience and materials collected during its 68 years of life to all alpinists who are interested.

Members: Jose Ma Montfort (leader), Antonio Bahi, Dr. Aman- do Redondo, Jorge Camprubi, Ramon Majo, Enrique Bonas- tre, Jose Lleonart, Jose Ma Diaz, Juan Frontera and Franz Ludwing.

High Altitude porters: Hayat-Ud-Din (Sirdar), Duraz-Nali-Khan,

Narb Khan, Mer-Haj-Ud-Din and Azib-Ull-Ullah-Shat. Liaison Officer: Mayor Zafer Amed.

* Manresa Zom-Mr. Montfort writes to explain:

"Really, it is not a virgin summit-it is a fore summit of Tirich Mir West (7,481 m.). Its first ascent was made by the same expedition that made the first ascent of Tirich Mir. Nevertheless, as keepsake of our passing over this peak and considering that our expedition has been the first to reach the two summits of Tirich (7,707 m.) and the West (7,487 m.) at the same time, we decided to name this after our dear town of Manresa."


The anticima Manzera Zom (left) and Tirich West (right)

The anticima Manzera Zom (left) and Tirich West (right)