The Himalaya As recorded by Harish Kapadia, 1987 - 2009.

The best news of the year 2009 is that Indian government has opened 100 new peaks for climbing!  Though the notification came in early 2010 the process was undertaken throughout the year 2009. It is almost after 17 years that a number of peaks have been  opened to climbers.  All the peaks are in Zanskar and Ladakh area. Many of them are along the road which runs Kargil-Sankoo   to Padam.  It passes Panikhar, Parkachik, Ringdom, Pensi la to reach Padam.  South of this road lies several smaller  valleys which are on watershed between Zanskar and Kishtwar. The peaks lie in

New ascents, high peaks, exploration of new areas and most importantly, challenging climbs by Indian mountaineers- all were part of the 2008 season in the Indian Himalaya. This year will be remembered for some energetic climbs and a rather settled weather.

Totally 65 foreign expeditions climbed in India. Since IMF has opened a liaison office at Leh to collect fees locally, Stok Kangri has become their most profitable peak with 21 official ascents. Counting this with Indian teams and unofficial team climbing, this peak will be in record books for the most climbed peak above 6000 m! Three French guides climbed

The year 2007 saw reduced mountaineering activity in the Indian Himalaya. An important reason is the stiff charge enforced by two state governments whose states contain large numbers of peaks i.e. Sikkim and Uttarakhand. In addition to expedition fees imposed by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, these two states insist on additional fees and stiff conditions which have put off many climbers. As a result there was not a single expedition to the east. (Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh) and very few expeditions to Uttarakhand areas.

There were totally 113 expeditions (61 Indian and 52 foreign). Of these, about 70 expeditions were to

Climbing expeditions to the Indian Himalaya appears to be at a standstill. Overall there were reduced numbers of teams, both from foreign countries and Indian teams. More than that it was reduction in number of peaks being attempted, specially the challenging peaks and routes, that is more evident. One of the main reason is the unrealistic fee structures and rules by State governments that has deterred climbers. The climbing activity was at much reduced scale in Uttarakhand (formerly Uttaranchal) and nil in case of Sikkim.

Trekking in the Himalaya has grown by leaps and bounds and more Indians enjoy the range

Overall 46 Foreign and 47 Indian expeditions climbed in the Indian Himalaya during the year. This was overall, a lower figure than the normal number of expeditions during  a year. Amongst the foreign expeditions, more that half climbed the  usual peaks like Kun, Kedar Dome, Nun and others.  Many of the expeditions  faced bad weather in mid September and some had to give  up due to poor snow and ice conditions in early October. Amongst the high peaks attempted, Changabang and Kamet, now open for foreigners, and Nanda Devi East were important ascents. The leader of the Italian expedition to

While the world is opening its doors to mountaineers and mountain lovers, the news from the new Uttaranchal state in India are distressing. The state contains some of the most beautiful areas in the Indian Himalaya with peaks like Nanda Devi, Kamet, Shivling and several others.  The Uttaranchal State has imposed severe restrictions on climbing and imposed special royalty charges for mountaineers to pay. (Minimum US $ 1400) This is addition to charges payable to the Indian  Mountaineering Foundation. Moreover a special and separate permission (red tape!) is to be obtained from the officials in the state, forest department

The total number of expeditions to the Indian Himalaya remained almost the same that is 110 as compared to 108 in the year 2002. 75 Indian and 35 foreign expeditions climbed here, but only about 43 expeditions were to notable peaks and these have been covered here. Again, there was a drop in the number of foreign teams to climb in the Indian Himalaya  – only 35 expeditions climbed here in 2003.  This should be a cause for concern for the authorities – is any one listening? Drop in quality of climbing is also worrying, not many spectacular or new

In the year 2002 there were 108 expeditions to the Indian Himalaya. Out of these 73 were Indian expeditions, and 53 were to notable peaks and which have been covered here. There was a drop in number of foreign teams to climb in the Indian Himalaya and only 35 expeditions climbed here in 2002. Many popular areas like Nun-Kun in Zanskar, Kishtwar and entire Kashmir valley remained closed for mountaineers due to security concerns. Climbs Amongst notable climbs were two first ascents: Padmanabh (7030 m) – by the Indian-Japanese team, Suj Tilla West (6373 m)- by the two member

There were celebrations galore for mountaineers and mountain lovers. Year 2001 began with ‘Millennium celebrations’ and ended with plans for the celebrations for the ‘International Year of the Mountains.’

The new Millennium celebrations began when the Himalayan Club invited three surviving ‘Tiger Sherpas’ at a special gathering in Mumbai. This was a fitting honour to the last three living recipients of the Himalayan Club Tiger Badge. They were Ang Tsering (nearly 100 years in age), Nawang Gombu and Tobgay Sherpa.

The Himalayan Club, fulfilling its historic role, awarded the “Tiger’s Badge” to those Sherpas who had achieved outstanding success in mountains.

This year was marked by several good expeditions and ascents of new peaks in the Indian Himalaya. Amongst the leading climbs in the Garhwal were the ascents of Nilkanth, a new line of ascent on Shivling by the Germans and the Korean ascents of Mukut Parvat East and Abi Gamin. A British team visited the Arwa valley again and made a fine ascent of Arwa Spire. Indian teams climbed Sudarshan Parvat, Chaturangi and Sri Kailash.

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation organized two small budget expeditions to Burphu Dhura. The second expedition made the first ascent of the main peak.

In Himachal the first