Himalayan Journal vol.34
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.34

Publication year:
1976

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EVEREST SOUTH-WEST FACE CLIMBED
    (Doug Scott)
  2. THE FRENCH EXPEDITION TO PUMORI (7,145 m.), 1975
    (Gerard Sighele)
  3. TREKKING IN NEPAL HIMALAYA - LANGTANG VALLEY
    (Rajendra Desai)
  4. DHAULAGIRI II -EAST RIDGE, 1975
    (Yoshio Kameyama)
  5. FIRST ASCENT AND TRAGEDY ON DHAULAGIRI IV, 1975
    (SHIRO NISHAMAE)
  6. TALUNG, 1975
    (A. J. S. GREWAL)
  7. ACCOUNT OF THE EXPLORATION OF TONGSHIONG GLACIER AND THE ZEMU GAP (19,230 ft.)
    (By J. K. BAJAJ)
  8. ACCOUNT OF AN ATTEMPT ON GUICHA PEAK (20,100 ft.)
    (P. C. S. RAUTELA)
  9. PHOKSUMDO LAKE
    (SUMANT SHAH)
  10. NORTH NANDADEVI BASIN AFTER FORTY YEAR
    (KIYOSHI SHIMIZU)
  11. THE ASCENT OF NANDADEVI AND NANDADEVI EAST, 1975
    (BALWANT S. SANDHU)
  12. KALANKA, 1974
    (MIKE TOWNEND)
  13. ASCENTS OF BANDARPUNCH (6,316 M.), 1975
    (L. P. SHARMA)
  14. THE I.M.A. EXPEDITION TO GANG CHUA AND LEO PARGIAL, 1974
    (JAGJIT SINGH)
  15. ACROSS KUGTI AND CHOBIA PASSES
    (K. C. PRASHAR)
  16. ON SKIS ACROSS ROHTHANG
    (RUPENDRA KUMAR SHARMA)
  17. KISHTWAR 1975
    (ROB COLLISTER)
  18. POLISH ASCENTS OF GASHERBRUM II AND III, 1975
    (JANUSZ ONYSZKIEWICZ)
  19. MY ESCAPE FROM GASHERBRUM II
    (LOUIS AUDOUBERT)
  20. VICTORY AND TRAGEDY ON BROAD PEAK, 1975
    (J. FERENSKI and K. GLAZEK)
  21. MOUNTAINS OF THE THUI GOL
    (DAVE BROADHEAD)
  22. SHAKLHAUR, 1975
    (DR. MARIAN BALA)
  23. AVALANCHE SEARCH TODAY
    (WALTER F. LORCH)
  24. EXPERIENCE WITH RESCUE TRANSCEIVERS
    (PETER S. LAWTON)
  25. THE GAURISHANKAR QUESTION
    (OVE SKJERVEN)
  26. BIRDS OF SWAT AND GILGIT
    (R. J. ISHERWOOD)
  27. HEAD INJURIES
    (BRAD FRANCIS)
  28. THE COLDER YOU ARE, THE WARMER YOU'LL BE
    (ELLIS LADER)
  29. THE SECOND SWEDISH EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA, 1975
    (DR. S. UNGERHOLM)
  30. EXPEDITIONS TXIMIST TO EVEREST 1974
    (J. X. LORENTE ZUGUZA)
  31. LHOTSE, 1975
    (RICCARDO CASSIN)
  32. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK-SOUTH-WEST RIDGE, 1974
    (TSUNEO SUZUKI)
  33. CHUREN HIMAL, 1974
    (HIROAKI YAMADA)
  34. TRISUL, 1975
    (MICHAEL CLARKE)
  35. DUNAGIRI, 1975
    (JOE TASKER)
  36. THE SILVER GOD MOUNTAIN (MULKILA) 1975
    (WARWICK DEACOCK)
  37. THE SPANISH EXPEDITION TO MANALI, 1975
    (JAIME MATAS)
  38. BRITISH EXPEDITION TO THE NOSHAQ REGION, 1974
    (ERIC ROBERTS)
  39. THE SPANISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO SARAGHRAR, 1975
    (RAMON BRAMONA RAMS)
  40. PURWAKSHAN VALLEY HINDU KUSI1. 1975
    (M. POPKO)
  41. THE 1975 NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYA EXPEDITION
    (PAUL BEAN)
  42. OBITUARY
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  45. CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1975

CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1975

The forty-seventh Annual General Meeting was held at Crescent House, Ballard Estate, Bombay 400 038. The following names were proposed and elected at the meeting :

President .. A. D. Moddie
Vice-Presidents . . Capt. M. S. Kohli, I.N., A.V.S.M.
K. K. Guha N. D. Jayal
Honorary Treasurer M. Tandon
Honorary Secretary .. J. C. Nanavati

Honorary Local Secretaries :
Bhutan John Tyson
Nepal M. J. Cheney
India :
Almora N. B. Parekh
Darjeeling E. D. Avari
Bombay Hon. Secretary
Calcutta A. B. Ghoshal
Delhi S. Dubey
Kulu J. Banon
Pakistan Col. E. Goodwin
Australia Maj. W. M. M. Deacock
Austria Dr. A. Diemberger
Great Britain V. S. Risoe, M.B.E
Japan Y. Mita
Spain Jose Paytubi
Switzerland E. A. Bolinder
U.S. A.---East A. J. Kauffman
U.S.A.-Midwest A. D. Black

Members of Committee
F. C. Badhwar, O.B.E. R. M. Khatau K. N. Naoroji
J. T. M. Gibson, O.B.E. G. Ramchandani B. W. Ritchie
Comdr. Joginder Singh H. B. Kapadia


Additional Members of Balloting Committee
R. W. Hotz Dr. H. V. R. Iengar Prof. C. Kc Mitra
Other Appointments
Hon. Editor .. S. S. Mehta
Hon. Librarian .. S. Sahi
Hon. Equipment Officer, Hon. Secretary at Bombay and Hon, Local Secretaries at Calcutta and Delhi


An Extraordinary General Meeting was held after the above A.G.M. at the same place to amend the Rules with a view to in¬troduce Associate membership in place of student membership. Under the amended Rules persons betweem the ages 17 and 35 years will be eligible for becoming Associaates for a period upto 7 years within which they should attain full membership. It is hoped that more and more younger persons, including students, would be able to join the Club under this category and enjoy the facilities offered by the Club.
Mountain Huts
With increasing costs of porterage and consequent burden im¬posed on smaller trekking and climbing grroups, greater need is felt for setting up suitable mountain huts in the higher regions in Himalaya. A small Sub-committee of: the Club considered several alternative sites bearing in mind the present facilities. However, the erection and maintenance ozf mountain huts were at present beyond the resources of the Club. On the recommend- dation of the Sub-committee the President suggested following sites to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, who had shown interest in the matter.
(1) Lake Camp below Black P'eak
(2) Bhyundhar Valley (Valley of Plovers)
(3) Tapovan near Gaumukh
(4) Bakria Khagi in the region of Dodital
With the kind assistance of the Swiss Emlfoassy, a detailed design of a mountain hut was also forwarded to the I.M.F.
Environment and Ecology
A Sub-committee was set up to promote conservation of Himalayan Environment and Ecology.
Our Member, Mr. C. R. Bailey attended the UNESCO (MAB-6) Conference at Kathmandu on the impact of Man on Mountains.
Air India called a Seminar on 3rd September on Himalayan Travel when many Members of the Club participated including Mr. A. D. Moddie, President, Mr. J. C. Nanavati, Hon. Secretary, Brigadier Gyan Singh, Mr. Gurdial Singh, Comdr. Joginder Singh and Mr. K. P. S. Sharma. Capt. M. S. Kohli, our Vice-President, who was with Air India, had taken the initiative to organise the Seminar.
Mr. A. D. Moddie, our President, in his forthright address warned the Seminar that over enthusiasm to "develope" mountain region for tourism may disturb the delicate balance of mountain ecology and may prove disastrous to the economy of the region in the long run.

CORRECTIONS, VOLUME XXXIII
P. 28 - line 4, read 'crest' instead of 'rest'
P. 30 - line 19, read 'Andy Harvard' instead of 'Andy Hardvard' pe 34™.line 10, read 'Ang Phurba' instead of 'Aug Phurba' P. 36 - line 18, read 'proximity' instead of 'promity' pe 36 __ line 24, read 'some momentos' instead of 'the some moments'
p. 54 -line 8, read 'Chuling Khola' instead of 'Chulin Khola' P. 74 -line 4, read 'Norbu Kang' instead of 'North Kang' p. 87 - line 9 from below, read 'Shrike' instead of 'Shirke' p. 88 -line 9 from below, read 'joined' instead of 'jonied' p. 88 - line 10 from below, read 'Devinder Jeet Singh' instead of 'Devinder Teet Singh'
P. 92 line 4 from below, read 'survive' instead of 'service'
P. 97 - line 6, read 'Bidyut' instead of 'Bidyat' P. 100 -line 23, read 'Murray' instead of 'Murray* P. 108 -line 16, read 'Nim Dorje' instead of 'Nim Dorke' P. 123 -line 23, read 'tent-shaped' instead of 'ten-shaped' P. 129 -line 7 from below, read 'Rohtang' instead of 'Rontang' P. 132 -line 7 from below, read 'shallow' instead of 'shall' P. 135 - footnote 6, read 'Umga' instead of 'Umba' P. 136--last line, to be read as last line on Page 137 P. 145 - line 6 from below, read 'rope' instead of 'hope' P. 159 - line 12, read 'Bruno Tuscan' instead of 'Bruno Tuscani' P. 159 - line 4 from below, read 'Qazi-Deh' instead of 'Qui-Deh' P. 162 - line 9, read 'Kohe Tez' instead of 'Kobe Tez' P. 174 - line 1, read '333 km' instead of '333 m* P. 192 -line 9, read 'Lasht' instead of 'Iasht' P. 209 -line 15, read 'J. Holnicki-Sculz' instead of 'J. Holnicki- Szulo'
P. 209 - line 17, read 'H Borchers' instead of 'H Borchess' P. 210 - line 6, read 'Holnicki-Sculz' instead of 'Holnick-Szale' P. 221 -item 16, read 'Shartse' instead of 'Shertse' P. 221 -item 21, read '27923 ft' instead of '27293' P. 222 - item 25, read 'Unpiyo' instead of 'Unplyo' P. 222 - item 9, read '19930 ft' instead of '19980 ft' P. 222 -item 10, read 'Devtoli' instead of 'Devotli' P. 224 - line 11 from below, read 'Soltoro' instead of 'Solotoro' P. 225 - line 3 from below, read 'chendzonga' instead of 'chenzonga'
P. 234 -line 16 from below, read 'Brahms' instead of 'Brahma' P. 236 -line 19 from below, read 'Jongsong' instead of 'Jongsang*
Printed in India by P. P. Bhagwat at Mouj Printing Bureau, Khatau Wadi, Bombay 400 004 and published by S. S. Mehta for Himalayan Club at P.O. Box 1905, Bombay 400 001.

THE HIMALAYAN JOURNAL
Volume XXXIV has been printed on the paper supplied by
THE BALLARPUR INDUSTRIES LIMITED
Thapar House, 124 lanpath New Delhi 110 001
Himalayan Club is grateful for their kind assistance.