Himalayan Journal vol.34
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.34

Publication year:
1976

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EVEREST SOUTH-WEST FACE CLIMBED
    (Doug Scott)
  2. THE FRENCH EXPEDITION TO PUMORI (7,145 m.), 1975
    (Gerard Sighele)
  3. TREKKING IN NEPAL HIMALAYA - LANGTANG VALLEY
    (Rajendra Desai)
  4. DHAULAGIRI II -EAST RIDGE, 1975
    (Yoshio Kameyama)
  5. FIRST ASCENT AND TRAGEDY ON DHAULAGIRI IV, 1975
    (SHIRO NISHAMAE)
  6. TALUNG, 1975
    (A. J. S. GREWAL)
  7. ACCOUNT OF THE EXPLORATION OF TONGSHIONG GLACIER AND THE ZEMU GAP (19,230 ft.)
    (By J. K. BAJAJ)
  8. ACCOUNT OF AN ATTEMPT ON GUICHA PEAK (20,100 ft.)
    (P. C. S. RAUTELA)
  9. PHOKSUMDO LAKE
    (SUMANT SHAH)
  10. NORTH NANDADEVI BASIN AFTER FORTY YEAR
    (KIYOSHI SHIMIZU)
  11. THE ASCENT OF NANDADEVI AND NANDADEVI EAST, 1975
    (BALWANT S. SANDHU)
  12. KALANKA, 1974
    (MIKE TOWNEND)
  13. ASCENTS OF BANDARPUNCH (6,316 M.), 1975
    (L. P. SHARMA)
  14. THE I.M.A. EXPEDITION TO GANG CHUA AND LEO PARGIAL, 1974
    (JAGJIT SINGH)
  15. ACROSS KUGTI AND CHOBIA PASSES
    (K. C. PRASHAR)
  16. ON SKIS ACROSS ROHTHANG
    (RUPENDRA KUMAR SHARMA)
  17. KISHTWAR 1975
    (ROB COLLISTER)
  18. POLISH ASCENTS OF GASHERBRUM II AND III, 1975
    (JANUSZ ONYSZKIEWICZ)
  19. MY ESCAPE FROM GASHERBRUM II
    (LOUIS AUDOUBERT)
  20. VICTORY AND TRAGEDY ON BROAD PEAK, 1975
    (J. FERENSKI and K. GLAZEK)
  21. MOUNTAINS OF THE THUI GOL
    (DAVE BROADHEAD)
  22. SHAKLHAUR, 1975
    (DR. MARIAN BALA)
  23. AVALANCHE SEARCH TODAY
    (WALTER F. LORCH)
  24. EXPERIENCE WITH RESCUE TRANSCEIVERS
    (PETER S. LAWTON)
  25. THE GAURISHANKAR QUESTION
    (OVE SKJERVEN)
  26. BIRDS OF SWAT AND GILGIT
    (R. J. ISHERWOOD)
  27. HEAD INJURIES
    (BRAD FRANCIS)
  28. THE COLDER YOU ARE, THE WARMER YOU'LL BE
    (ELLIS LADER)
  29. THE SECOND SWEDISH EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA, 1975
    (DR. S. UNGERHOLM)
  30. EXPEDITIONS TXIMIST TO EVEREST 1974
    (J. X. LORENTE ZUGUZA)
  31. LHOTSE, 1975
    (RICCARDO CASSIN)
  32. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK-SOUTH-WEST RIDGE, 1974
    (TSUNEO SUZUKI)
  33. CHUREN HIMAL, 1974
    (HIROAKI YAMADA)
  34. TRISUL, 1975
    (MICHAEL CLARKE)
  35. DUNAGIRI, 1975
    (JOE TASKER)
  36. THE SILVER GOD MOUNTAIN (MULKILA) 1975
    (WARWICK DEACOCK)
  37. THE SPANISH EXPEDITION TO MANALI, 1975
    (JAIME MATAS)
  38. BRITISH EXPEDITION TO THE NOSHAQ REGION, 1974
    (ERIC ROBERTS)
  39. THE SPANISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO SARAGHRAR, 1975
    (RAMON BRAMONA RAMS)
  40. PURWAKSHAN VALLEY HINDU KUSI1. 1975
    (M. POPKO)
  41. THE 1975 NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYA EXPEDITION
    (PAUL BEAN)
  42. OBITUARY
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  45. CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1975

ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK-SOUTH-WEST RIDGE, 1974

TSUNEO SUZUKI

The Gamagori A. C. Expedition
Members: T. Suzuki (leader), T. Nakase, A. Yokota, J. Suzuki, M Suzuki, M. Yamazaki, K. Ishikawa, T. Murase (doctor) and Capt. Hari Bahadur Karki (L. O.)Sirdar Ang Tsering.

We left Pokhara on 7 March and after eight days set up our Base camp on a lateral moraine on the Kyumron glacier at 4200 m. near the French B. C. of their post-monsoon 1970 expediton to the same mountain.

Our initial aim was to tackle the south-west ridge higher up after traversing the glacier, but since it was in an extremely unstable condition we diverted westwards straightaway and set up camp 1 on a snowfield under the first rock peak (see sketch map) on 19th March at a height of 4800 m. Here again the face of the rock peak was so steep that we chose to climb the easier rock wall to our right, over ice slopes and drop down to a subsidiary glacier without losing too much height, and established Camp 2 (5400 m.) April after having been tent-bound by bad weather for six days in Camp 1.

Climbing the rotten ice slopes from Camp 2 we arrived on the south west ridge proper and on 3 April reached the snow peak (5650 m.)

Down below, aseries of catastrophes visited the Base Camp.On 4 April an avalanche from the South ridge destroyed 6 tents, injuring the liaison officer and a Sherpa. Considerable amount of personal equipment, food and medicine was also lost. The following day climbers from Camps 1 and 2 descended with available equipment and food. A small party was sent to Kyumron and Fokhara villages for more food to replace what was lost, and set up the second Base Camp at a lower height. On 7 April another avalanche from the south ridge buried all our tents though no one was injured-the snow-dust covered the valley for 1000 meters !

The next day we retreated further down to the terminal moraine and set up our third Base Camp.

On 11 April we resumed our climb and set up Camp 3 on a ledge at 5600 m. to the north of the snow peak. Above this was a 100 m. rock wall (which we surmounted) culminating towards three ice peaks nicknamed 'Three Sisters'. We were so exhausted that we stopped at the 6000 m. ice peak. From there the ridge narrows to a sharp rock and ice ridge and finally an ice overhang snow wall at 6400 m.

The weather now started really turning for the worse-we had only three fine days throughout the expedition. On 1 May we abandoned the attempt and returned to Kyumron.