Himalayan Journal vol.34
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.34

Publication year:
1976

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EVEREST SOUTH-WEST FACE CLIMBED
    (Doug Scott)
  2. THE FRENCH EXPEDITION TO PUMORI (7,145 m.), 1975
    (Gerard Sighele)
  3. TREKKING IN NEPAL HIMALAYA - LANGTANG VALLEY
    (Rajendra Desai)
  4. DHAULAGIRI II -EAST RIDGE, 1975
    (Yoshio Kameyama)
  5. FIRST ASCENT AND TRAGEDY ON DHAULAGIRI IV, 1975
    (SHIRO NISHAMAE)
  6. TALUNG, 1975
    (A. J. S. GREWAL)
  7. ACCOUNT OF THE EXPLORATION OF TONGSHIONG GLACIER AND THE ZEMU GAP (19,230 ft.)
    (By J. K. BAJAJ)
  8. ACCOUNT OF AN ATTEMPT ON GUICHA PEAK (20,100 ft.)
    (P. C. S. RAUTELA)
  9. PHOKSUMDO LAKE
    (SUMANT SHAH)
  10. NORTH NANDADEVI BASIN AFTER FORTY YEAR
    (KIYOSHI SHIMIZU)
  11. THE ASCENT OF NANDADEVI AND NANDADEVI EAST, 1975
    (BALWANT S. SANDHU)
  12. KALANKA, 1974
    (MIKE TOWNEND)
  13. ASCENTS OF BANDARPUNCH (6,316 M.), 1975
    (L. P. SHARMA)
  14. THE I.M.A. EXPEDITION TO GANG CHUA AND LEO PARGIAL, 1974
    (JAGJIT SINGH)
  15. ACROSS KUGTI AND CHOBIA PASSES
    (K. C. PRASHAR)
  16. ON SKIS ACROSS ROHTHANG
    (RUPENDRA KUMAR SHARMA)
  17. KISHTWAR 1975
    (ROB COLLISTER)
  18. POLISH ASCENTS OF GASHERBRUM II AND III, 1975
    (JANUSZ ONYSZKIEWICZ)
  19. MY ESCAPE FROM GASHERBRUM II
    (LOUIS AUDOUBERT)
  20. VICTORY AND TRAGEDY ON BROAD PEAK, 1975
    (J. FERENSKI and K. GLAZEK)
  21. MOUNTAINS OF THE THUI GOL
    (DAVE BROADHEAD)
  22. SHAKLHAUR, 1975
    (DR. MARIAN BALA)
  23. AVALANCHE SEARCH TODAY
    (WALTER F. LORCH)
  24. EXPERIENCE WITH RESCUE TRANSCEIVERS
    (PETER S. LAWTON)
  25. THE GAURISHANKAR QUESTION
    (OVE SKJERVEN)
  26. BIRDS OF SWAT AND GILGIT
    (R. J. ISHERWOOD)
  27. HEAD INJURIES
    (BRAD FRANCIS)
  28. THE COLDER YOU ARE, THE WARMER YOU'LL BE
    (ELLIS LADER)
  29. THE SECOND SWEDISH EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA, 1975
    (DR. S. UNGERHOLM)
  30. EXPEDITIONS TXIMIST TO EVEREST 1974
    (J. X. LORENTE ZUGUZA)
  31. LHOTSE, 1975
    (RICCARDO CASSIN)
  32. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK-SOUTH-WEST RIDGE, 1974
    (TSUNEO SUZUKI)
  33. CHUREN HIMAL, 1974
    (HIROAKI YAMADA)
  34. TRISUL, 1975
    (MICHAEL CLARKE)
  35. DUNAGIRI, 1975
    (JOE TASKER)
  36. THE SILVER GOD MOUNTAIN (MULKILA) 1975
    (WARWICK DEACOCK)
  37. THE SPANISH EXPEDITION TO MANALI, 1975
    (JAIME MATAS)
  38. BRITISH EXPEDITION TO THE NOSHAQ REGION, 1974
    (ERIC ROBERTS)
  39. THE SPANISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO SARAGHRAR, 1975
    (RAMON BRAMONA RAMS)
  40. PURWAKSHAN VALLEY HINDU KUSI1. 1975
    (M. POPKO)
  41. THE 1975 NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYA EXPEDITION
    (PAUL BEAN)
  42. OBITUARY
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  45. CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1975

THE 1975 NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYA EXPEDITION

PAUL BEAN

PAUL BEAN, wife Dawn Bean, Mike Hosted, Mike Anderson and Terry Funk (Swiss) arrived in Kabul on 15 June after a slow and eventful drive along the now well-known Himalayan Highway. Formalities were quickly dealt with and we took our transit north to the end of the surfaced road at Kunduz and 4 days later we had covered the 150 miles of advenutre to Eshkashem.


Our chosen area lay one long tiring day south up the Darrahe Khaspak and then into the Darrahe Qalat. The valley terminates in a glacier below the north face of Sad Ishtragh.

During the first 10 days bad weather prevented us from doing anything ambitious but we did manage to check the existing map (Polish Expedition Survey, J. Wala) and explore the many side valleys for potential climbs. During the reconnaissance period we made the minor first ascents of Wala 37 (4350 m.) and Sakhe Safed (4872 m.). We also discovered an ice pass at 4885 m. that leads from the head of the Darrahe Qalat into its easterly neighbour the Darrahe Syarpalas. Later the pass received its first traverse in the opposite direction. The weather cleared on 18 July and before descending to Eshkashem on July 27 we made the following first ascents using a camp in the head of the Darrahe Qalat then a bivouac below the peak itself.

Kohe Nova (Wala 93) 5200 m. East Face.-P. Bean, D. Bean, 19 July.
Kohe Barabar (Wala 94) 5050 m. South Couloir-P. Bean, D. Bean, 20 July.
Kohe Akhery (Wala 98) 5100 m. North Face-M. Hosted, T. Funk 24 July.

Then from a bivi above Base Camp the second ascent of Kohe Habib (Wala 107) West Ridge-P. Bean, M. Anderson, 24 July.

We stayed in Kabul to give the monsoon time to end (it didn't) and arrived in the Kulu valley to find the area looking very damp. John Darling and Ernie Shield flew out to join us. Mike Anderson left us and Dawn had to stay in the valley due to some mysterious illness. We were also joined by local Sherpa Rinzing who proved to be an excellent companion.
We had chosen the East Tos glacier as our second expedition with approach via the Parbati valley. The area lies east of Indrasan and south of the Bara Shigri.

Leaving Kulu on 2 September we drove up on the local bus in miserable weather to the roadhead at Kasol then in very easy stages to Base Camp at the snout of the dirt choked Tos glacier. The monsoon went on so long that we began to think it would run into winter. For over 3 weeks we were mainly base bound but did manage to get a camp stocked up with 2 weeks food on the East Tos glacier below White Sail. We also made minor first ascents of 2 peaks to the east and west of base camp as well as making interesting observations of the beautiful little group of peaks to the south of the East Tos glacier. Camp 1 was finally occupied on 20 September and after one false start due to bad weather John Darling, Ernie Shield and Paul Bean made the first ascent of Tiger Tooth (5880 m.). It involved 2 Bivi Camps, one at the head of the East Tos glacier and one over a ridge we called the barrier in the upper Tichu glacier basin. The route then went up to a col and up the peak's west ridge. 11.00 a.m. 28 Septem¬ber grade AD. On 30 September Mike Hosted, Terry Funk and Rinzing left a camp above on icefall made the first ascent of a peak they named Angdu Ri (5800 m.) grade AD. Its the westerly peak of a pair that stand between White Sail and Pt. 20495 and the route gained a col between the peaks then followed the east ridge to the summit which was reached at 3.30 p.m. To finish the expedition off John and Rinzing made the first ascent of a peak East of and adjoining point 20495 which John named Ringzing height 4880 m. grade D inf. They left the bivi camp, climbed up steep slopes to a col then in terrible snow conditions up the West ridge to the summit which they reached at 12.00. The ascent marked the start of a deterioration in the weather and an attempt on a peak above and east of Robert col by Mike and Terry failed through deep snow and an approaching storm. Base Camp was left and the expedition reached the Kulu valley on 12 October.

Mountain
Expedition
Leader
Remarks


EXPEDITIONS 1973
HINDU RAJ
Kakhari
(19,262 ft. - 5871 m.)
Pt. c. 5150 m.
Pt. c. 5250 m,
Austrian Karl-Heinz
Boss CLIMBED 16.8.73 CLIMBED 7.7.73 CLIMBED 9.7.73


NEPAL (KHUMBU REGION)

Mera (c. 21,120 ft. 6437 m.)
Small
French Party
- 2nd ascent Oct. 1973



EXPEDITIONS 1974 NEPAL
1. Urkinmang
(20,100ft.-6126m.) (Langtang Himal)
2.Rokapi (Nampa South; 22,408 it.- 6830 m.)
3. Peaks in the Hidden Valley
a. Parbat Agratal (19,324 ft.- 5890 m.) (2 1\4m. E. of Tongu Pk.)
b. Parbat Talpari (20,400 ft.- 6218 m.) (1\2m. N of Agratal)
c. Stupa (20,673 ft, 6301 m.) 3\4 m. NE of Talpari)
d. Parbat Rinchen (20,352 ft.- 6023 m.) (1 m. E of Agratal)
e. Paschimi Him- parkhal (20,571 ft.- 6270 m.) (2 m. SE of Hongde)
f) Purbi Him parkhal (20.443 ft.- 6231 m.) SE of Paschimi Himparkhal
g) Kasturi Parbat (19,531 ft. -5953 m.) (1 m. N of Dhampus pk.)
h) Chattan Pyra-mid (19,023 ft. - 5798 m.) (2 m. NE of Kasturi Parbat)
i) Tashi Kang III (20,112 ft.- 6130 m.) (3 1\2 m. N of Dhampus Pk.)
Small American party


British team


Small team
-


-


G. Hauser


2nd ascent 18.11.74


Attempted


Climbed 25.4.74

Climbed 25.4.74

Climbed 25.4.74

CLIMBED 24.4.74

Climbed 24.4.74




Climbed 28.4.74

Climbed 28.4.74


Climbed 28.4.74

Climbed 28.4.74




Pks. a)-d) lie N of Gegar khola; Pks e) and f) lie S of (Gegar khola; Pks. g) - i) lie E of Hidden valley.
KARAKORAM

1. K 12 (24,503 ft.- 7469 m.)

2. Sherpi Kangri (24, 212 ft.-7380 m.)

3. Mango Gusor (c. 20,600 ft.- 6279 m.)

4. Pt. 19,958 ft. (Lower Baltoro gl.)

5. Sia Kangri (central Summit) (c. 24,000 ft.- ' 73l5 m.)


6. Pk. 6394 m. (Broad pk. grp.)
(NE of Sela Pass)
7. Pk. 5230 m. Pk. 5650 m (Sumaiyar Bar gl.
-Malubiting grp.) Pk. 5410 m. (6 m. NE of Malubiting)
8. Toshain II (19,500 ft.-5944 m.) l0 1\2m. SW of Naga Parbat

9. Pumari Chhish


10. Shispare (24,997 ft.-7619 m.) Pt. 7090 m. Kyoto Univ. Expdn.


Kobe Univ. Expdn.

A mixed
Team

Group deHaute
Montagne
Small
Austrian
Team


Ichikawa
A.C. Expdn.


C.A.I. Bologna
Section



Small
American
Team
Austrian

Polish-German
Academic Expdn. G. Iwatsubo


T. Tanaka



-

J. Frehel

W. Stefan




T. Arioka







W. Unsoeld


A. Furtner

J. Kurczab Climbed 30.8.74


Attempted


Attempted

Attempted by S byttress

Climbed 11.7.74





1st ascent 15.7.74
Climbed 20.7.74 Climbed 21.7.74
Climbed 23.4.74

1st ascent Aug. 1974


Attempted

Climbed 21.7.74 Climbed 21.7.74





HINDU KUSH
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Urkinmang
(20, 100 ft.-6126 m.)
(Langtang Himal) Small American Party ___ 2nd ascent 18. 11. 74
2 Rokapi
(Nampa South; 22, 408 ft,-6830 m.) British team __ Attempted
3 Peaks in the Hidden Valley
(a) Parbat Agartal
(19, 324 ft.- 5890 m.)
(2 ½ m. E. of Tongu Pk.) Small Team G. Hauser Climbed 25.4.74
(b) Parbat Talpari
(20 ,400 ft.- 6218 m.)
(1/2 m. N of Agartal) Climbed 25.4.74
c) Stupa
(20 673 ft.- 6301 m.) ¾ m. NE of Talpari) Climbed 25.4.74
d) Parbat Rinchen
(20 352 ft.- 6023 m. )(1m. E of Agartal) Climbed 24.4.74
e) Paschimi Himparkhal
(20, 571 ft.- 6270 m.)
(2 m. SE of Hongde) Climbed 24.4.74
f) Purbi Himparkhal
(20,443 ft,- 6231 m.) 7/8 m. SE of Paschimi Himparhkal) Climbed 24.4.74
g) Kasturi Parbat
(19, 531 ft.- 5953 m.) (1 m. N of Dampus pk.) Climbed 28.4.74
h) Chattan Pyramid
(19,023 ft.- 5798 m.)
(2 m. NE of Kasturo Parbat) Climbed 28.4.74
i) Tashi Kang III
(20,112 ft.- 6130 m.) (3 ½ m. N of Dhampus Pk.) Climbed 28.4.74
Pks. A) -d) lie N of Gegar khola; Pks e) and f) and lie S of Gegar khola; pks. G) -i) lie E of Hidden valley.

KARAKORAM

1 K 12 (24, 503 ft.- 7469 m.) Kyoto Univ. Expdn. G. Iwatsubo Climbed 30.8.74
2 Sherpi Kangri (24,212ft.-7380m.) Kobe Univ. expdn. T. Tanaka Attempted
3 Mango Gusor (c.20,600 ft-6279m.) A mixed team - Attempted
4 Pt. 19,958 ft. (Lower Baltoro gl. Group de Haute Montagne J.Frehel Attempted by S buttress
5 Sia Kangri (Central summit) (c.24,000 ft.-7315m.) Small Austrian Team W. Stefan Climbed 11.7.74
6 Pk. 6394m. (Board PK.grp.)
(NE of Sela pass) Ichikawa A.C Expdn. T. Arioka 1st ascent 15.7.74
7 pK.5230 m. PK.5650m (Sumaiyar Bar gl. -Malubiting grp.)
PK. 5410m. (6 m. NE of Malubiting) C.A.I. Bologna Section A. Bergamashi Climbed 20.7.74
Climbed 21.7.74

Climbed 23.4.74
8 Toshain II (19,500 ft.-5944m.) 10 1/2m. SW of naga Parbat Small American Team W.Unsoeld 1st ascent Aug. 1974
9 Pumari Chhish Austrian A. Furtner Attempted
10 Shispare (24,997 ft.-7619m.)Pt.-7090m. Polish-German Acadamic expdn. J. Kurczab Climbed 21.7.74
Climbed 21.7.74

HINDU KUSH

1 Lagh Sor (Atak Zom) (6087 m.) Pt. 5420 m. (W of Lagh Sor) C.A.I. Pinerola Section E. Genero Attempted
Climbed 11, 14 and 17.8.74
2 Thiu I (6660 m.) Unpyo A.C. Tokyo T. Miyoshi Climbed 27.7.74
3 Thiu II (6523 m.) Small British Party R. Rutland Attempted
4 Koyo Zom (6972 m.) Pt. c. 6035 m. (E of Koyo Zom) Small British Team C. Brown Climbed 18.8.74
1st ascent 6.8.74
5 Tirich West III (c. 7400 m.) Groupe Unniversitaireed Montagneet ski G. Lucazeau and B. Amy 1st ascent 30.7.74
1.8.74
6 Tirich West III
Irg Zom (6875 m.) Swiss Team A. Strickler 2nd ascent 6.8.74
Repeated 11.8.74
Climbed
7 Tirich West III (c. 7400 m.)
Tirich West II (c. 7500 m.)


Dirgol Zom (6787 m.) Italian duo B. Re and G. Machetto
3rd ascent 19.8.74
Traverse from Tirich West III down to col and 1st ascent of T. W. II 19.8.74
Climbed
8 a) Kohanha West (6309 m.- W 421.1) (Kohe Qala Ust) Ak. Klub Alpinistyczny and Stoleczny Climbed
b) Pt. 5542 m. (w 426) Klub Tatranski Climbed
Pt. 5235 m.(N of W 426)
c)Pt. 5235 m. (N of W 426) Climbed
d) Pt. 5471 m.( W 413) Climbed
e) Pt. 5534 m.(W 414) Climbed
f) Pt. 5150 m. (E of W 414) Climbed
g) Pt. 5411 m. Climbed
h) Noshaq (7492 m.) Climbed
9 a) Kohanha East (6300 m.)
(Wala 421.2) Klub Wysokogorsky Szczecin T. Rewaj Climbed 18.8.74
b) Makhrute Safed
(c. 5850 m.) Climbed
c) Kohe Awal (5229 m.W. 450) Climbed 9.8.74
d) Kohe kadium (5250 m. W. 455) Climbed 10.8.74
e) Sakhe Kuchek (5409 m. W 448)
Traverse over the three summits 18 and 19.8.74
f) Rakhe Hart (5450 m.)
g) Sakhe Lagar (5480 m.)
h) Makhrute Syah (5740 m. W 424) Climbed 25.8.74
i) Sakhe Pomeriana (5815 m. W. 225) Climbed 25.8.74
j) Kohe Sast Payan (5503 m.W. 433) Climbed 26.8.74
k) Dandane Sast c. 5300 m. W. 434) Climbed 26.8.74
l) Kohe Hoshk (c. 5300 m. between W. 433 and W. 434) Climbed 26.8.74
10 Kohe Urgent (7038 m) Klub Prezewodnikow Gorskich P.T.T.K. R. Koziol Climbed 22.8.74
11 Noshaq (7492 m) a) Small British expedition
b) Combined American, Spanish, Swiss and German G. Harder
E. Roberts
B.R. Gregory
Mr. Cuevas
Mr. Ruf Solo 16.8.74
Solo 17.8.74
Solo 25.8.74
Solo 25.8.74
Solo 26.8.74
12 Paghar and Nagargai vallrys
a) Pt. 5754 (wrongly named Kohe Pagar by the Japanese__ according to Wala the peak by that name already exists on the left side of the valley Studenckie Kolo Prezewodnikow Gorskich
S. Z.S.P. W. Winiarski Climbed 27.8.74
b) Kohe Salagya East 95350 m.) Climbed 27.8.74
Poloksho-I Garbi (5272 m.) Climbed 27.8.74
d) Sakhe Anjuman (6026 m.) Climbed 28.8.74
e) Kohe Nagagia (5653 mn.) Climbed 30.8.74
f) Sase Tez (5512 m.) Climbed 31.8.74
g) Kohe Ogaki (5585 m.) Climbed 31.8.74

13. Kohe bandaka Zerago (Zerago Peak) -correction-in H.J. Vol. XXXIII page 216 and ascent of the peak has been listed. Mr. Jeff Dozier states that the peak that was climbed lies at the head of the zerago glacier at the point where the glacier coming north from Bandaka Tawika joins the ridge which comes north and then east to enclose the Zerago glacier. They did not climb Zerago Pk(5907 m.) (originally climbed by the Japanese in 1970), which lies on the east side of the cieque on the latter ridge. Mr. Dozier explains that there is a 650-foot drop from the summit of their peak to the col on thr east ridge of Bandaka South. (Ref. A.A.J.)

EXPEDITIONS 1975
NEPAL (pre-monsoon)

1 Everest (29,028 ft- 8848 m.) Japanese Ladies Expdn. E. Hisano Climbed 16.5.75
2 Everest (29,028 ft- 8848 m.) Chinese Climbed 27.5.75 from the north
3 Lhotse (27,923 ft.- 8511 m.) Italian R. Cassin
Attempted
4 Nuptse (25,726 ft.- 7841 m.) British and Nepali Army Expdn. Maj. J. Fleming Attempted
5 Pumori (23,443 ft,- 7145 m.) French J. Lescure Climbed 30.4.75 by the SW ridge
6 Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft.-8167 m.) Tokyo
Metropolitan Him. Expdn. S. Amamiya Attempted by S ridge
7 Dhaulagiri II (25,429 ft.-7751 m.) Tokyo Nohko Univ. Expdn. N. Kobayashi Attemped along SW ridge
8 Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.-7660 m.) Mting. Fed. of Osaka T. Nomura 1st ascent 9.5.75
9 Dhaulagiri V (2-1,992 ft.-7618 m.) Okayama Univ Expdn.
E. Susuki 1st ascent 1.5.75
10 Yalungkang
(27,625 ft.-8420 m.) German Austrian team S. Aeberli
2nd ascent 9.5.75 repeated on 12 and 13.5.75
11 Annapurna I (26,545 ft.-8091 m.) Austrian G. Gunter Attempted along SE ridge
12 Peak 29
(24,652 ft.-7514 m.) Hyogo Mting. Assoc. H. Meeda Attempted along E ridge
13 Baudha
(21,890 ft.-6672 m.) Hirosaki Overseas C.C. S. Kikochi Attempted
14 Churen Himal (21,184 ft.-7371 m.) Meiji
Univ. A.C. S. Nakajima Climbed W summit via W ridge 13.5.75
15 Manaslu (26,760 ft.-8156 m.) Spanish J. G. Orts Climbed 26.4.75
16 Himal Chuli (25,895 ft.-7893m.) SenshuUniv. A.C.
H. Komi Attempted
NEPAL (post-monsoon)
17 Everest (29,028 ft. 8848 m.) British
C. Bonington Climbed by the SW Face 24.9.75, repeated on 26.9.75
18 Makalu
(27,824 ft.-8481 m.) Yugoslav A. Kunaver Climbed by the S Face 6.10.75 repeated on 8. 10 and 11.10.75
19 Annapurna South Pk. (23,683 ft. 7219 m.) Sendai A.C. Y. Sasaki Attempted
20 Churen Himal Hohkei (24,184 ft.-7371 m.) S. Ohtsuka Climbed West summit by W ridge 25.10.75
21 Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.-7660 m.) Kamoshika Dojin K. Takahashi 2nd ascent 19.10.75 repeated 20 and 21.10.75
22 Kanjiroba
(22,580 ft.-6882 m.) Getsuryo Kai A. Takigucli Attempted
23 Konde East Pk. (19,991 ft.-6093 m.) Nepali- Japanese Climbed 17.10.75
24 Jannu (25,294 ft.-7710 m.) New Zealand P. Farrel Attempted by N face

GARHWAL

1 Nanda Devi (25,645 ft.-7817 m.) Nanda Devi East (24391 ft.-7434 m.) Indo-French R. Pollet Villard Climbed 16.6.75
Climbed 16.6.75

2 Trisul (23,360 ft.-7120 m.) Seattle Garhwal Expdn. M.Clarke Climbed 9.6.75

3 Trisul (23,360 ft.-7120 m.) American - Climbed 4.9.75
4 Dunagiri (23,184 ft.-7066 m.) British Duo R.M.Renshaw,
J.Tasker Climbed alpine style by the SE face
5 Banderpunch (20,720 ft.-6315 m.) N.I.M. Adv. Course
trainee & instructors Col. L. P. Sharma Climbed 15.5.75 by the boys
Climbed 19.6.75 by the girls
6 Devistan I (21,910 ft.- 6678 m.) Iwate Sangaku Kyokai S. Watanabe Climbrd 24.5.75
7 7. Bamchu
(20,680 ft.-6303 m.) Pt. 6992 m.
(at the northern extremity of the N. Rishi) gl.)
Pt. 6911m, W of Pt. 6992 m.) Him. Japan Mting. Assoc. K. Shimizu Climbed 20.9.75

1st ascent 27.9.75
repeated 28.9.75


Climbed 2.10.75
8 Nanda Ghunti East Pk.
(c. 20,014 ft.- 6100 m.) Shinshu Univ. A.C. K. Sugimoto Climbed 6.10.75
9 Hardeol
(23,460 ft.-7151 m.) I.T.B.P __
Attempted
10 Mrigthuni
(22,490 ft.-6855 m.) Climber's Club, Serampore Climbed 21.9.75





KULU AND LAHOUL
1 Mulkila (21,382 ft. 6517 m.)
M 5 (19,456 ft.- 5930 m.) W. Deacock Attempted
Climbed
2 M 6 (20,283 ft.- 6182 m.) American L. Jerstad Climbed 26 and 27.6/75
3 Mukerbeh (19,910 ft.-6069 m.) Ladies Expdn. Mrs. M. C.
Usha Climbed
4 Mukerbeh
(19,910 £t.-6069 m.)
Manali Pk. (18,600 ft.-5669 m.) Him. Enjoyers Assoc. Chittaranjan S. Das Climbed 22.9.75


Climbed 22.9.75
5 Dea Tibba
(19,687 ft.-6001 m.) Ladies Expdn., Bombay
Miss L. Patil
Climbed 6.10.75
6 East Tos glacier :
a) "Tiger Tooth" (5880 m.) North of England Him, Expdn. P. Bean 1st ascent 20.9.75
b) Pt. c. 5800 m. ("Angdu Ri") 1st ascent 30.9.75
c) Pt. c. 5880 m. (lying E of and adjoining Pt. 20,495 ft.) 1st ascent


KASHMIR, KISHTWAR AND LADAKH

1 Brahma II (21,080 ft.-6425 m.) Sapporo A.C K. Keiryo Climbed 15.9.75
2 Brahma II (21,080 ft.-6425 m.) British R. Collister Attempted and exploration
3 Sickle Moon (21,569 ft.-6574m.) Jap. Defence Army Expdn F. Yuki Attempted

4 Sickle Moon (21,569 ft.-6574 m.) High Alt.
Warfare
School Lt. Col. D. N. Tankha 1st ascent 2.12.75

5 Nun (23,410 ft.- 7135 m.) Nipon Him M. Nishigori Attempted

6 Nun (23,410 ft.- 7135 m.) Swedish __ Climbed 16.9.75 repeated 20.9.75

7 Pt. 19,800 ft, (Kanglacha range, Ladakh) I.T.B.P. __ 1 st ascent May 1975


.
KARAKORAM
1 K 2 (28,250 ft.- 8610 m.) American J. Whittacker Attempted
2 Gasherbrum I (26,470 ft.-8068 m.) duo R. Messner
P. Habeler Climbed alpine style by new route up NW face 10-8-75
3 Gasherbrum I
(26,470 ft.-8068 m.)
Urdok I
(23,950 ft.-7300 m.) Austrian Climbed 11.8.75


Climbed 4.8.75
4 Gasherbrum II (26,360 ft.-8035 m.) French J. P. Fresafond Climbed 18.6.75
5 Gasherbrum II (26,360 ft.-8035 m.)


Gasherbrum III (26,090 ft.-7952 m.) Polish ladies and men teams J. Onyszkiewicz and

W. Rutkiewicz Climbed 4.8.75 3rd ascent
by NW face 1.8.75 repeated 5.8.75
and 12.8.75 by E ridge 1st ascent 11.8.75
6 Broad Pk. .
(middle summit) (26,300 ft.-8016 m.) Wroclaw Karakoram Expdn. J. Ferenski Climbed 28.7.75
7 Trango Tower
(c 20,500 ft.- 6248 m.) British ____ Attempted

8 K I2 (24,503 ft.- 7469 m.) Ichikawa A.C. Y. Yamamoto Climbed 4.8.75
9 K 6 West Pk II
(23,098 ft.- 7049 m.) Toyama Sanyn-kai S. Saegi Attempted

10 Kampire Dior (23,436 ft7136 m.) Hiroshima Yamanokai K. Enda
Climbed 14.6.75
11 Laila (22,921 ft 6986 m.) Hekiryo A.C. T. Ishikawa Climbed9.8.75
12 Latok I (23,439 ft7144 m.) J.A.C.
Tokai Sect M. Hara
Attempted

13 Latok II
(23,321 ft7108 m.) Kyoto C.C. N. Takada Attempted
14 Malubiting
(Central Pk.)
(23,922 ft7291 m.) J.A.C. Iwate Sect J. Kasahara T. Sato 1st ascent 2.8.75
15 Purian Sar
(20,647 ft.6293 m.) Kyoto
Karakoram
Club
S. Hotta
Climbed 7.8.75 repeated 8.8.75
16 Saltoro Kangri
(25,400 ft.7742 m.) Hokuryo A.C S. Yamamoto Attempted
17 Spantik
(23,042 ft.7023 m.) Kohriyama A.C Y. Narita Attempted
18 Teram Kangri I (24,490 ft.7463 m.)
Teram Kangri II (24,300 ft.7406 m.) Shizuoka A.C. H. Katayama Climbed 12.8.75 Climbed
19 Chigolungma gl.__ Italian A. Bergamaschi
a) Pt. 5350 m. (between E Kapaltang and W Marpo glaciers) 1st ascent 21.7.75
b) Pt. c. 6096 m. (heighest in Kapaltang grp.) Attempted
c) Pt. 6005 m. Climbed 3.8.75 by N ridge
d) Pt. 5720 m. (the W Pk. In Berginsho grp.) Climbed 2.8.75 by W ridge
20 Chogolisa
(25,148 ft,-7665 m.) Austrian E. Koblmuller
Climbed SW summit by S face 2.8.75. Repeated 4.8.75
21 Baltoro Cathedral C.A.I.
Belledo
Section G. Fiocchi Climbed alpine style 8.7.75 by SE face and on 10.7.75 by SW ridge
22 K 7 (22,750 ft.- (6934 m.) British duo J. D. Prosser R. Barton Recconnoiter and exploration
23 Ogre (23,900 ft.- 7285 m.) British D. Morrison Attempted Two virgin 20,000-ers were climbed
24 Sherpi Kangri (24,212 ft.-7380 m.)
Chhota Kangri (21,300 ft.-6492 m.)
Pyramid Pk. (21,200 ft.-6462 m,) British D. Alcock Attempted

Climbed

Climbed

25 GILGIT AREA
a) Snow Dome
(5029 m.) (Naltar valley) British R. Collister
Climbed


b) Mehrbani (5639 m.) (Naltar valley) Climbed
c) Pt. 5961 m. (Daintar valley) Climbed
d) Pt. 6885 m. (at head of Kukuay gl.) Attempted



HINDU KUSH
1 Tirich Mir (7707 m.) Dirgol Zom (6778 m.) Sporthaus Eiselin E. Reiser Climbed by 18 members by Czech route on 27.7.75 and 3,8.75 Climbed by 26 members

2 Tirich Mir (7707 m.)

Italian G. Macheto Climbed by Czech route 11.8.75. Repeated by new route via W spur of Tirich West I over the sum¬mit to Tirich Mir (main sum¬mit)
3 Tirich Mir (7707 m) International Expdn M. Saleki climbed
4 Tirich Mir (7707 m.) Polish J. Wala
Attempted by Norwegian
5 Tirich Mir East Pk. (7692 m.) Solo F. Stamberger Died __ lost
6 Saraghrar (7349 m) Spanish J. Colmer Attempted by SW ridge
7 Shakhaur (7116 m)
Kohe Nadir Shah (6814 m) Cracov Acad. A.C. Dr. M. Bela Climbed 8.7.75 E. ridge
8 Darrahe Qalat area: North of England Him. Expdn. P. Bean
a) Pt. 4530 m (W. 37) 1st ascent
b) Sakhe Safed (4872 m) 1st ascent
c) Kohe Nova (5200 mW. 93) 1st ascent 19.7.75
d) Kohe Barabar (5050 m W .94) 1st ascent 20.7.75
e) Kohe Akherey (5100 mW 98) 1st ascent 24.7.75
f) Kohe Habib (W. 107) 2nd ascent 24.7.75
9 Qadzi Deh valley
a) Noshab (West) (7250 m.)

b) Noshab (Central) ( 7400 m.) Expedition. Centre Excurcionista de la Comarca De Bages, Manresa J. Montfort Climbed 22.8.75



Traverse 23.8.75
c) Noshaq (Main) (7 192 m.)
d) Noshaq (East) (7480 m.)
e) Aspe Safed (6450 m.) Climbed 20.7.75
f) kharposhte (5698 m.) Climbed 23.8.75
10 Aspe Safed (6450 m.) French A. Zagdoun Climbed by N wall and traverse from Aspe Safed III to II to I made on 2.8.75 to 4.8.75
11 Kohe Bandaka (6843 m.) Romanian V. Garher Climbed
12 Garmush (6244 m.) Austrian P. Baumgartner Climbed 1.8.75
13 M 6 (6137 m) British P. Holden Climbed by new route up N face
14 Purwakshan valley, Wakhan
a) Pt. 5290 m. Warsaw Mting Club M. Popko 1st ascent 22.7.75
b) Pt. 5325 m. 1st ascent 22.7.75
c) Pt. 4922 m. 1dt ascent 23.7.75
d) Pt 5450 m. 1st ascent 24.7.75
e) Pt 6080 m (Kohe Purwakshan) 1st ascent 26.7.75

f) Pt. 6110 m. 1st ascent 31.7.75 repeated 3.8.75
g) Pt. 5544 m. 1st ascent 1.8.75
h) Pt .c. 5950 m. 1st ascent 3.8.75 on way to Pt. 6110 m
15 a) Kohe Purwak shan (6080 m.) “Exploration Pamir 1975” 2nd ascent
b) Pt. 6101 m. Climbed
c) Kohe Marco Polo (6174 m.) Climbed
d) Kohe Ptukh (5881 m) Climbed
16 Afghan Darwaz Abi Jod valley Poznan Mting Club R. W. Schramm Expolration and ascent of 15 summits


a)
(Kohe
Purwakshan)
b) Pt. 6110 m.
c) Pt. 5544 m.
d) Pt. c. 5950 m.
15. a) Kohe Purwak¬
shan (6080 m.)
b) Pt. 6101 m.
c) Kohe Marco Polo (6174 m.)
d) Kohe Ptukh (5881 m.)
16. Afghan Parwaz- Abi Jod valley
Warsaw
Mting
Club
"Exploration R. de Grancv Pamir 1975"
Poznan Mting R. Wr. Schramm Club
1st ascent 22.7.75
1st ascent 22.7.75
1st ascent 23.7.75
1st ascent 24.7.75
1st ascent 26.7.75
1st ascent 31.7.75
repeated 3.8.75
1st ascent 1.8.75
1st ascent 3.8.75 on way to Pt. 6110 m,
2nd ascent
Climbed Climbed
Climbed
Exploration and ascent of 15

summits