Himalayan Journal vol.34
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.34

Publication year:
1976

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EVEREST SOUTH-WEST FACE CLIMBED
    (Doug Scott)
  2. THE FRENCH EXPEDITION TO PUMORI (7,145 m.), 1975
    (Gerard Sighele)
  3. TREKKING IN NEPAL HIMALAYA - LANGTANG VALLEY
    (Rajendra Desai)
  4. DHAULAGIRI II -EAST RIDGE, 1975
    (Yoshio Kameyama)
  5. FIRST ASCENT AND TRAGEDY ON DHAULAGIRI IV, 1975
    (SHIRO NISHAMAE)
  6. TALUNG, 1975
    (A. J. S. GREWAL)
  7. ACCOUNT OF THE EXPLORATION OF TONGSHIONG GLACIER AND THE ZEMU GAP (19,230 ft.)
    (By J. K. BAJAJ)
  8. ACCOUNT OF AN ATTEMPT ON GUICHA PEAK (20,100 ft.)
    (P. C. S. RAUTELA)
  9. PHOKSUMDO LAKE
    (SUMANT SHAH)
  10. NORTH NANDADEVI BASIN AFTER FORTY YEAR
    (KIYOSHI SHIMIZU)
  11. THE ASCENT OF NANDADEVI AND NANDADEVI EAST, 1975
    (BALWANT S. SANDHU)
  12. KALANKA, 1974
    (MIKE TOWNEND)
  13. ASCENTS OF BANDARPUNCH (6,316 M.), 1975
    (L. P. SHARMA)
  14. THE I.M.A. EXPEDITION TO GANG CHUA AND LEO PARGIAL, 1974
    (JAGJIT SINGH)
  15. ACROSS KUGTI AND CHOBIA PASSES
    (K. C. PRASHAR)
  16. ON SKIS ACROSS ROHTHANG
    (RUPENDRA KUMAR SHARMA)
  17. KISHTWAR 1975
    (ROB COLLISTER)
  18. POLISH ASCENTS OF GASHERBRUM II AND III, 1975
    (JANUSZ ONYSZKIEWICZ)
  19. MY ESCAPE FROM GASHERBRUM II
    (LOUIS AUDOUBERT)
  20. VICTORY AND TRAGEDY ON BROAD PEAK, 1975
    (J. FERENSKI and K. GLAZEK)
  21. MOUNTAINS OF THE THUI GOL
    (DAVE BROADHEAD)
  22. SHAKLHAUR, 1975
    (DR. MARIAN BALA)
  23. AVALANCHE SEARCH TODAY
    (WALTER F. LORCH)
  24. EXPERIENCE WITH RESCUE TRANSCEIVERS
    (PETER S. LAWTON)
  25. THE GAURISHANKAR QUESTION
    (OVE SKJERVEN)
  26. BIRDS OF SWAT AND GILGIT
    (R. J. ISHERWOOD)
  27. HEAD INJURIES
    (BRAD FRANCIS)
  28. THE COLDER YOU ARE, THE WARMER YOU'LL BE
    (ELLIS LADER)
  29. THE SECOND SWEDISH EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA, 1975
    (DR. S. UNGERHOLM)
  30. EXPEDITIONS TXIMIST TO EVEREST 1974
    (J. X. LORENTE ZUGUZA)
  31. LHOTSE, 1975
    (RICCARDO CASSIN)
  32. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK-SOUTH-WEST RIDGE, 1974
    (TSUNEO SUZUKI)
  33. CHUREN HIMAL, 1974
    (HIROAKI YAMADA)
  34. TRISUL, 1975
    (MICHAEL CLARKE)
  35. DUNAGIRI, 1975
    (JOE TASKER)
  36. THE SILVER GOD MOUNTAIN (MULKILA) 1975
    (WARWICK DEACOCK)
  37. THE SPANISH EXPEDITION TO MANALI, 1975
    (JAIME MATAS)
  38. BRITISH EXPEDITION TO THE NOSHAQ REGION, 1974
    (ERIC ROBERTS)
  39. THE SPANISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO SARAGHRAR, 1975
    (RAMON BRAMONA RAMS)
  40. PURWAKSHAN VALLEY HINDU KUSI1. 1975
    (M. POPKO)
  41. THE 1975 NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYA EXPEDITION
    (PAUL BEAN)
  42. OBITUARY
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  45. CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1975

THE SILVER GOD MOUNTAIN (MULKILA) 1975

WARWICK DEACOCK

'T'HE International Mountaineers' Meet at the Himalayan Moun- taineering Institute in May 1973 served, as with all convoca¬tions of mountaineers, to release a plethora of ideas.

I laid plans to ascend Mount Tharkot in 1975 but circumstanccs led to this being changed to Mulkila in Central Lahoul. M 4 as the peak is otherwise called was the destination chosen as it was the biggest. However, nature decreed otherwise and we ascended M 5-not that M 4 did not receive some very serio attempts (good Rum Doodle stuff!).

This was the first Australian Himalayan expedition and a broad aim could be that of exposing the climbers from Down Under to the needs of Up Yonder. With Mount Kosciusko at 7326 feet being our highest hill, altitude posed new problems although probably the cold was no worse than what our southern climate offers.

Australians hit the mountain scene with a rather unfortunate hang after the War when transmitting their competitive aggres hi oils from the sports field and proceeded to kill themselves on fount Cook, the biggest peak in the New Zealand alps. Sub¬sequently the New Zealand Alpine Club grasped the nettle of responsibility and courses of instruction were offered which have now proliferated to three private, commercial climbing schools. Kor the past ten years Australians have learned safe mountaineer¬ing and attitudes whilst a percentage of British and European migrants have seeded their own European alpine experience.

In 1967 the first feelers of Himalayan mountaineering set forth and recently it became obvious that the scene was set for the mountaineers to try their luck on the big ones. Mulkila seemed to me to meet our moderate needs.
From the roadhead at Darche, the Base Camp at 14,200 feet was reached on the third day; thence Camps 1 to 3 were established at 16,700 feet, 18,200 feet and 18,700 feet. From here a steep ridge climb to the main M 4 ridge proved inhospitable and new, loose (snow drove the climbers to establish several fixed ropes on a mixture of ice and loose rock. Camp 4 at 19,400 feet was a 2-man tent half on a cornice, and an assault pair backed by 6 supporters made fruitless forays on 'silky snow lying on stacked saucers'- to roughly interpret their descriptions. Climbers carried loads of 50-60 lbs. to Camp 3 and acclimatised rather fast and very well.

As time passed and our departure date loomed, it became obvious that the M 4 ridge, if it went at all, could accommodate but a fraction of our forces. Emulating General Buller, who when asked how to win, growled in answer 'More men', I threw in the big battalions and six climbers polished off M 5, a mountain¬ous-looking mountain with a summit of saucers, the top 20 feet of which none dared to tread.

The expeditioners paid their own way and no sponsorships or grants were sought and although I cannot claim to have planned It all on the back of an envelope, it can be said that we had a page kit list and a few "seldom newsletters" prior to departure. We numbered 14 in all, including 3 ladies, and it was altogether a very civilized holiday in congenial surroundings, stemming from a lew beers two years before in Darjeeling.

On return, in Darjeeling, we were entertained by the Himalayan Club and I proposed an Indo-Australian expedition in 1977.
We all had a lot of fun and no-one got hurt-so I suppose it was a success !