Himalayan Journal vol.34
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.34

Publication year:
1976

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EVEREST SOUTH-WEST FACE CLIMBED
    (Doug Scott)
  2. THE FRENCH EXPEDITION TO PUMORI (7,145 m.), 1975
    (Gerard Sighele)
  3. TREKKING IN NEPAL HIMALAYA - LANGTANG VALLEY
    (Rajendra Desai)
  4. DHAULAGIRI II -EAST RIDGE, 1975
    (Yoshio Kameyama)
  5. FIRST ASCENT AND TRAGEDY ON DHAULAGIRI IV, 1975
    (SHIRO NISHAMAE)
  6. TALUNG, 1975
    (A. J. S. GREWAL)
  7. ACCOUNT OF THE EXPLORATION OF TONGSHIONG GLACIER AND THE ZEMU GAP (19,230 ft.)
    (By J. K. BAJAJ)
  8. ACCOUNT OF AN ATTEMPT ON GUICHA PEAK (20,100 ft.)
    (P. C. S. RAUTELA)
  9. PHOKSUMDO LAKE
    (SUMANT SHAH)
  10. NORTH NANDADEVI BASIN AFTER FORTY YEAR
    (KIYOSHI SHIMIZU)
  11. THE ASCENT OF NANDADEVI AND NANDADEVI EAST, 1975
    (BALWANT S. SANDHU)
  12. KALANKA, 1974
    (MIKE TOWNEND)
  13. ASCENTS OF BANDARPUNCH (6,316 M.), 1975
    (L. P. SHARMA)
  14. THE I.M.A. EXPEDITION TO GANG CHUA AND LEO PARGIAL, 1974
    (JAGJIT SINGH)
  15. ACROSS KUGTI AND CHOBIA PASSES
    (K. C. PRASHAR)
  16. ON SKIS ACROSS ROHTHANG
    (RUPENDRA KUMAR SHARMA)
  17. KISHTWAR 1975
    (ROB COLLISTER)
  18. POLISH ASCENTS OF GASHERBRUM II AND III, 1975
    (JANUSZ ONYSZKIEWICZ)
  19. MY ESCAPE FROM GASHERBRUM II
    (LOUIS AUDOUBERT)
  20. VICTORY AND TRAGEDY ON BROAD PEAK, 1975
    (J. FERENSKI and K. GLAZEK)
  21. MOUNTAINS OF THE THUI GOL
    (DAVE BROADHEAD)
  22. SHAKLHAUR, 1975
    (DR. MARIAN BALA)
  23. AVALANCHE SEARCH TODAY
    (WALTER F. LORCH)
  24. EXPERIENCE WITH RESCUE TRANSCEIVERS
    (PETER S. LAWTON)
  25. THE GAURISHANKAR QUESTION
    (OVE SKJERVEN)
  26. BIRDS OF SWAT AND GILGIT
    (R. J. ISHERWOOD)
  27. HEAD INJURIES
    (BRAD FRANCIS)
  28. THE COLDER YOU ARE, THE WARMER YOU'LL BE
    (ELLIS LADER)
  29. THE SECOND SWEDISH EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA, 1975
    (DR. S. UNGERHOLM)
  30. EXPEDITIONS TXIMIST TO EVEREST 1974
    (J. X. LORENTE ZUGUZA)
  31. LHOTSE, 1975
    (RICCARDO CASSIN)
  32. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK-SOUTH-WEST RIDGE, 1974
    (TSUNEO SUZUKI)
  33. CHUREN HIMAL, 1974
    (HIROAKI YAMADA)
  34. TRISUL, 1975
    (MICHAEL CLARKE)
  35. DUNAGIRI, 1975
    (JOE TASKER)
  36. THE SILVER GOD MOUNTAIN (MULKILA) 1975
    (WARWICK DEACOCK)
  37. THE SPANISH EXPEDITION TO MANALI, 1975
    (JAIME MATAS)
  38. BRITISH EXPEDITION TO THE NOSHAQ REGION, 1974
    (ERIC ROBERTS)
  39. THE SPANISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO SARAGHRAR, 1975
    (RAMON BRAMONA RAMS)
  40. PURWAKSHAN VALLEY HINDU KUSI1. 1975
    (M. POPKO)
  41. THE 1975 NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYA EXPEDITION
    (PAUL BEAN)
  42. OBITUARY
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  45. CLUB PROCEEDINGS 1975

EXPEDITIONS TXIMIST TO EVEREST 1974

J. X. LORENTE ZUGUZA

(This article was sent to the editor through the kindness of Servicio General de Information de Montana, Barcelona.)
Members : J. I. Lorente Zugaza (Leader and doctor), A. Bidarte, L. Abalde Alzuart, A. Alonzo Diez, J. Cortaz; Larrea, L. I. Domingo y Uriarte, J. C. Fernandez de Torre, R. Gallardo Senosiain, R. Kirch Ugarte, F. Lusarre Grumeta, L. M. Saenz de Olazagoitia, F. Uriarte Camera A. A. Vallejo Rosen, J. Villar Gurruchaga, F. Larruquert Aguirre (camera-man) and A. Lerma Harrero (camera man).

IT was 3 March by the time we got our expedition stores equipment flown to Lukla and our acclimatization could commence. We halted at Thyangboche and at Pheriche to duct our acclimatization camps-these lasted for three we during which all the members climbed easy summits or points ranging up to 5400 m.

On 25 March we established our Base Camp at 5380 m. Lha Tensing, our Sirdar,, had promised his wife that he would go past the Khumbu icefall and that he would direct She activity from the Base. He had been to the summit already the Italians, and we respected his wishes and appointed ano Sirdar for the higher camps.

Opening the icefall route commenced on 27 March and eight days before Camp 1 could be established in the western Cwm at 6100 m. We took the precaution of stopping all activity in the icefall by 11 a.m. every day. The route was fixed 1500 m. of rope and aluminium bridges totalling 60 m. Some 100 wooden planks were later used during the course of the expedition to readjust routes and cross crevasses which had widen While we were provisioning Camp 1 we also simultane explored the route to Camp 2 at 6440 m. and which we into the Advance Base Camp-we made this camp as comfortable as possible. The route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 is the between any Everest camps. We set up Camp 3 (6950 13 April but due to the proximity of the avalanches which past,, the Sherpas avoided sleeping in it, prefering to carry from Camp 2 to Camp 4 (7450 m.) on the Lhotse wall. The weather which had been excellent uptill now, changed on our arrival in camp 4 on 22 April, and stopped all activity on the Lhotse face we, however, used this opportunity for fully supply¬ing 2 and 3.

On 4 May we established Camp 5 on the South Col. The weather had been a cause of worry-the A.I.R. broadcasts of special weather bulletins indicated constant wind speeds between 100 and 160 k. p.h. The Head Lama of Thyangboche monastery also predicted this year (of the wooden tiger) as dry and windy predictable true, since we believe that it was the first Everest expedition which arrived at its Base Camp site without treading on snow.

Everything was now ready-all camps equipped and on 12 May under rather poor conditions Camp 6 was erected at a height of 8530 m. on the south-east ridge. The next day the summit team waited from 3 a.m. to 10 a.m. for the violent wind to subside instead it got worse and mist and snow was added to the misery. The best thing to do was to retreat to the South Col which they did without oxyze n so as to leave the maximum supply in Camp 6.

All was not lost; we had enough strength to send two more 2 man ropes the two ropes left the lower camps a day apart and joined forces at the South Col-one of the members' oxygen equipment jammed and he reached the Col thoroughly exhausted his place was taken by the strongest available Sherpa. They waited at the south Col for four days before realizing that the monsoon had hit the mountain-very reluctantly the attempt was abonded.