WAKHAN, 1968

Quala Panja Valley : French Expedition

HENRI AGRESTI

[Reprinted from the Alpine Journal]

(Henri Agresti, Isabelle Agresti, Yves Dominoni (climbing party); Lucien Agresti, Renee Agresti)

WE left France on 4 July in two Renault 4s with trailers and established our first Base Camp on 2 August after two days carry. This was only at 3,500 metres on account of difficulties with porters and we subsequently moved it with the help of six porters, in three days, to 4,000 metres on the right bank of the glacier.

We took a further week to establish Camp II on the edge of the plateau (c. 5,000 m.) on account of difficulties in finding the way through a dangerous serac zone, necessitating 100 metres of steep ice-climbing on the edge of the glacier (sections of 70°) on which we subsequently fixed ropes. Once this was done, however, we were able to spend up to 25 days on the two plateaux without going back through the serac zone. During this period Isabelle and Henri Agresti were able to do the following first ascents, sometimes from supplementary camps:

August

August

Apart from four days of violent storm (27-30 August), the weather was adequate for climbing, varying from very good to mediocre. Except for the steep ice-slope below Camp II and a few other short passages, the technical difficulties experienced were not more than AD, though the relatively high altitude and isolation were also important factors. All the names cited—with the exception of Koh-e-James (named and climbed by the Czech expedition, 1965)—have been put forward officially to the Afghan Cartographic Institute.

Interesting remaining possibilities are:

1. Koh-e-Wakhan, which is really a group of at least three summits of 6,400-6,500 m., though it might be more accessible from the next valley (Darya-i-Darrah-i- Eshan).
2. A very beautiful and apparently difficult summit of 6,200 metres between Koh-e-Tirma and Koh-e-Setara.
3. Several summits of minor importance ranging from 5,000 to 6,100 metres.

The Quala Panja Valley marks the end of the main climbing area of the Hindu Kush. To the east, the altitude drops rapidly and only a few isolated fine peaks of 6,000 metres rise above the general level of scarcely 5,000-metre mountains which are much less glaciated than the western parts of the Hindu Kush.

We found on the right bank of our valley at 3,800 metres an ancient site which might well be prehistoric.

WAKHAN: Quala Panja Valley 1968

Photo : I. Agresti

Looking south-west from near summit to koh-e-sarkand the numbers relate to the wala map

Looking east from Kon-e setara

Photo : H. Agresti

On the Summit of Koh-e-Setara (6,030 m.) looking towards south west. Opposite is the gaint wall of Lunkho and on the right is the buttress of Koh-e-Hevad

Photo : H. Agresti

From the col Sud-est, looking east towards the mountains of Yarkhun, Hindraj and the Karakorams

Photo : H. Agresti

Isabelle Agresti on the Summit of Koh-e-James (6,210 m.) In the background is the virgin Pk., 6,164 m.-beyond that is the Wakhan valley-Soviet Pamirs in the far distance

Photo : H. Agresti

Above col est. During our attempt on Koh-e-wakhan

Photo : H. Agresti

On the Summit of Koh-e-Setara (6,030 m.) looking east. In the middle foreground is Koh-e-Rank (5,930 m.) right background shows the two summits of Koh-e-Wakhan, and the co lest, in the left background

Photo : H. Agresti

Photo taken from about 150 m. from camp II, on the Plateau; Koh-e-Abs on extreme right leading down to col SE

Photo : H. Agresti

Koh-e-Uparisina in the Ishmurg valley

Photo : H. Agresti

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