EXPEDITION NOTES, 1969

Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
NEPAL
1. Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft.) American M. Shor Attempted
2. Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.) Austrian R. Hoyer Attempted
3. Churen Himal (24,184 ft.) Italian P. Consiglio Attempted
4. Peak 29 (25,705 ft.) Japanese S. Sumiyoshi Attempted
5. Annapurna I (26,545 ft.) German L. Greissl Attempted
6. Annapurna II (26,041 ft.) Yugoslav A. Kunaver 2nd ascent 22.10.69
7. Annapurna IV (24,688 ft.) Czech V. Trochaska 5th ascent 7.10.69
8. Tukche Peak (22,703 ft.) Swiss Dr. G. Hartmann Climbed 10.5.69 and 13.5.69
9. Kanjiroba Himal Main Peak (22,580 ft.) British J. Tyson Attempt and exploration
10. Gurja Himal (23,599 ft.) Tomari Mountaineering Club, Japan   Climbed 1.11.69
11. Kande Hiunchuli (c. 21,000 ft.) in Patrasi Himal, West Nepal Kobe Univ.   Attempted
12. Everest (29,028 ft.) Japanese   Filming and skiing in western cwm and SW. face
GARHWAL
1. Tharkot (20,010 ft.) Climbers' Club, Bombay H. Kapadia Attempted
2. Tharkot (20,010 ft.) Mountaineers' Club, Bombay S. Choudhuri Attempted
3. Gangotri III (21,578 ft.) M.S. Univ., Baroda J. Elavia 2nd ascent 10.6.69
4. Gangotri III (21,578 ft.) N.I.M., Uttarkashi Maj. Surat Singh 3rd ascent 20.6.69
5. Pk. 20,684 ft. (in Chaturangi glacier) Gangotri Gl. Exploration Committee, Calcutta Dr. S. R. Choudhuri Climbed 7.10.69
6. Nanda Bhanar (20,568 ft.) Sherwood College, Naini Tal K. P. Sharma Attempted
7. Pk. c. 19,200 ft. in the Gangotri region Small team Dr. G. R. Patwardhan Climbed May 1969
8. Abi Gamin (24,130 ft.) Gujerat State Council of Sport H. N. Patel 4th ascent 6.7.69
9. South Lampak (20,750 ft.) Mountain Lovers' Association, Asansol P. Chakraborty 1st ascent 21.9.69
KASHMIR
1. Haramukh (16,872 ft.) Regional Eng. College, Srinagar S.R. Khan Climbed 1.9. 69
KULU-LAHUL-CHAMBA
1. Duphao Jot (20,011 ft.)
Baihali Jot (20,602 ft.)
Menthosa (21,140 ft.)
Phabrang (20,250 ft.)		 Indo-British Expdn. Maj. H. V. Bahuguna Climbed 25.5.69
Climbed 27.5.69
Attempted
Attempted
2. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft.) Japanese Expdn. Dr. I. Morimoto Climbed 6.6.69 and 8.6.69
3. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft.) Gujerat All Ladies' Expdn. Miss D. Saher Climbed 18.6.69
4. Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.) Japansese A. Okuyama Climbed on 24.5.69 and ski'd from summit to B.C.
5. Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.) Italian G. Tenti Climbed May 1969
6. Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.) Sainick School, Lucknow Maj. P. P. S. Cheema Climbed 6.9.69
7. Pk. 21,760 ft. (Bara Shigri Gl.) 'Pathikrit' Women Climbers' Association, Calcutta Miss D. Sinha Details n.a.
8. Gepang Goh (19,259 ft.) Japanese Expdn. H. Narita Climbed 28.9.69 (1st ascent)
9. Ali Ratni Tibba (18,013 ft.) Scottish Expdn.   details n.a.
KARAKORAM
1. Malubiting North Pk. (6,843 m.) Malubiting West (7,459 m.) Polish Karakoram Expdn., 1969 R. Szafirski Climbed 8.10.69
2. K.6 (23,890 ft.) Italian Alpine Club of Abruzzi L. Barbuscia Attempted
3. Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft.) Czech I. Golfy Attempted
HINDU KUSH
1. Qazi Deh Valley
Kharposht-e-Yakhi' (5,689 m.)
Asp-e-Safed I (Main Pk.-6,507 m.)
Asp-e-Safed South (6,450 m.)
Asp-e-Safed II (West of I) (6,220 m.)
Gumbaz-e-Safed (c. 6,800 m.)
Rakh-e-Daroz (5,690 m.)
Noshaq (Main Pk-7,492 m.)
Noshaq (West Pk.)
Shingeik Zom II and III (over 7,220 m.)
(West of Shingeik Zom);		 Osterreicische H.K. Expdn., 1969 W. Axt. Climbed 6.8.69
Climbed 9.8.69
Climbed 10.8.69
1st ascent 10.8.69
2nd ascent 10.8.69
Climbed 12.8.69
Climbed 19.8.69
Climbed 19.8.69
1st ascent 20.8.69
2. Kharposht-e-Yakhi (5,689 m.)
Noshaq (Main Pk.-7,492 m.) and West Pk.
Koh-e-Sang (c. 5,550 m.) (SE. of Kharposht-e- Yakhi)		 American Austrian Expdn., 1969 Dr. R. Hechtel Climbed 30.7.69 and 1.8.69
Climbed 11.8.69 and 13.8.69
1st ascent 18.8.69
3. Mandaras Valley
Pk. 6,224 m. (Wala 132 = M.7)
Koh-e-Keshnikhan (c. 6,750 m.)		 French H.K. Expdn., 1969   1st ascent 21.7.69
Climbed 1.8.69
4. Pk. c. 5,400 m. (Wala 141) Expdn. of the Club Montagnard I’Androsace, Geneva   1st ascent
5. Shakhawr Valley
Koh-e-Shakhawr (7,116 m.)		 Expdn. Frangaise en H.K., 1969 J. P. Paris Climbed 20.8.69 and 22.8.69
6. Pegish Valley
Koh-e-Farzand (Wala 308- 6,190 m.)
Pk. 6,096 m. (Wala 306)		 Gifu Univ. Afghanistan Expdn., 1969 Y. Hirabayashi No detail
1st ascent
7. Ishmurgh Valley
(West branch)
Pk. 6,380 m. (Wala 354)		 Hiroshima Univ. Alpine Club of Medical Dept. T. Hirai Climbed 5.8.69
8. Khandud area
Koh-e-Khandud } (5,541 m.)
Koh-e-Ghor ( (4,805 m.) )		 H.K. Expdn. of the Ost. Touristen- klub W. Stangl. 1st ascent 19.7.69
1 st ascent 19.7.69
9. Chitral
Tirich Mir (25,263 ft.)
Little Tirich (20,869 ft.)
Ausher (Owir I) (17,333 ft.)		 British Army Assoc.
Expdn., 1969		 Maj. J. A. Fleming Climbed 21.7.69
1st ascent 5.7.69
Climbed 22.6.69
10. Tirich Mir (25,263 ft.) Fukuoka Mount. Assoc. H.K. Expdn., 1969 D. Suematsu Attempted
11. Dirgol Zom (6,778 m.) Little
Dirgol Zom (6,550 m.)
Wife' Pk. (c. 6,000 m.)		 Expdn. 'Chitral', 1969, Italy R. Varvelli Climbed 6.8.69
1st ascent
8.8.69
1st ascent 29.7.69
12. Istor-o-Nal Main
Pk. (7,403 m.)
Istor-o-Nal South
Pk. (7,303 m.)
Istor-o-Nal SE.
Pk. (7,365 m.)
'Rock Pinnacle'
(c. 7,200 m.)		 Expdn. Barcelona al H.K., 1969 J. M. Anglada 1st ascent12.8.69
1st ascent 12.8.69
1st ascent12.8.69
Climbed 11.8.69
From the Ano Gol branch of Upper Tirich Gl.
Ghul Lasht Zom III (Wala 74—6,361 m.)
Apollo XI Zom (6,101 m.) (East of Ghul Lasht Zom III)
Asp-e-Safed South (6,450 m.)
Cataluna Zom (6,060 m.) (West of Asp-e-Safed)		 Expdn. Barcelona al
H.K., 1969		 J. M. Anglada 1st ascent 28.7.69
1st ascent 26.7.69
1st ascent 31.7.69
1st ascent 31.7.69
13. Istor-o-Nal (7,403 m.) Kansai Gakuin Univ. A.C. H.K. Expdn., : 1969 A. Nomura Attempted
14. Noroghi Khuh glacier Muhi Zom (Wala 334—6,442 m.) Sanin Branch of J. A.C. H.K. Expdn., 1969 S. Fujii 1st ascent 27.7.69
2nd ascent 28.7.69
15. Chi Ghari glacier
Rahozon Zom North (Wala 398—6,502 m.)
Rahozon Zom South (6,535 m.)
between Chi Ghari and Anoshah glaciers
CI (4,600 m.)
C2 (4,320 m.)
between Anoshah and Kach glaciers
Koh-e-Anoshah (Wala 382—c. 5,500 m.)		 H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 4.8.69
1st ascent 6.8.69
1st ascent 29.8.69
1st ascent 26.9.69
2ndascent 10.8.69
A2 (5,600 m.)
Shah Gol		 H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 10.8.69
PI (5,444 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 19.8.69
P2 (5,730 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 20.8.69
P3 (c. 6,000 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 20.8.69
P4 (5,500 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 20.8.69
S7 (5,155 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 13.8.69
S5 (5,200 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 14.8.69
S6 (5,300 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 14.8.69
S4 (c. 5,000 m.) H.K. Expdn. H.G. Bergland Rudolf and Helga Lindner 1st ascent 22.8.69
Kohistan Zom     1st ascent 22.8.69
16. Hindu Raj
Koyo Zom (6,872 ) m.)		 Expdn. of the Tokyo S. Ogasawara Climbed 21.7.69
17. Thui II area
Pachen Zom
(19,600 ft.)
Pk. 17,500 ft.
Pk. 18,500 ft.
Pk. 18,000 ft.
Thui II (c. 21,500 ft.)		 British Hindu Raj Expdn. R. J. Isherwood 1st ascent 15.8.69
1st ascent 8.8.69
1st ascent 15.8.69
1st ascent 16.8.69
Attempted
Himalayan Journal 29
Editor: Soli S. Mehta Published Year: 1969
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
    (SOLI S. MEHTA)
  2. RENNELL AND THE SURVEYORS OF INDIA
    (G. F. HEANEY)
  3. INDIA UNDERGROUND
    (S. A. CRAVEN)
  4. AFTER EVEREST—THE FUTURE OF INDIAN MOUNTAINEERING
    (ASHOKA MADGAVKAR)
  5. THE ISWA KHOLA HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1969
    (J. P. WARD, M.B., F.R.C.S.)
  6. KOYO ZOM, PECHUS ZOM, GAINTHIR CHISH, GAHKUSH, DAS BAR ZOM AND OTHER PEAKS OF HINDU RAJ, 1968
    (ALBERT STAMM (O.A.V.))
  7. HINDU KUSH EXPEDITION OF THE MOUNTAINEERING TOURIST GROUP GRAZ, 1968
    (HEINZ BADURA)
  8. DIRAN, 1968
    (RUDOLF PISCHINGER)
  9. WAKHAN, 1968
    (HENRI AGRESTI)
  10. WAKHAN CORRIDOR AND LUNKHO, 1968
    (ALES KUNAVER)
  11. THE DESCENT OF LUNKHO
    (DR. R. A. NORTH)
  12. NORTH KOHISTAN, 1968
    (R. COLLTSTER)
  13. A VISIT TO THE USHNU GOL (NE. CHITRAL), 1968
    (M. H. WESTMACOTT)
  14. ON THE BANKS OF RAKTAVARN GLACIER, 1968
    (G. R. PATWARDHAN)
  15. RETURN TO KANJIROBA, 1969
    (JOHN TYSON)
  16. TREKKING IN KASHMIR
    (H. STEYSKAL)
  17. A WALK THROUGH THE GREAT HIMALAYAN AND ZASKAR RANGES FROM KISHTWAR TO LEH (LAD AKH), 1968
    (SHEO RAJ SINGH)
  18. THE INDO-BRITISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION—1969
    (MAJ. H. V. BAHUGUNA)
  19. THE SUNDER DUNGA-THARKOT (20,010 ft.) EXPEDITION, 1969
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  20. THE AMERICAN DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION, 1969
  21. THE FOURTH ASCENT OF TIRICH MIR WEST,1 1969
    (CAPTAIN HENRY DAY)
  22. AUTUMN UNDER MALUBITING
    (ANDRZEJ KUS)
  23. BARCELONA HINDU-KUSH EXPEDITION, 1969
    (JOSE-MANUEL ANGLADA)
  24. THE PROBLEM OF ISTOR-O-NAL
    (DR. A. DIEMBERGER)
  25. THE SARAGHRAR PEAKS
    (DR. A. DIEMBERGER)
  26. THE LUNKHOS
    (DR. A. DIEMBERGER)
  27. EXPEDITION NOTES, 1969
  28. MOUNTAINS ABOVE 7,300 M. (23,950 FT.)
  29. OBITUARY
  30. BOOK REVIEWS
  31. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1969