THE LUNKHOS

DR. A. DIEMBERGER

[Another excellent chronological review by Dr. A. Diember- ger—the sketch-map has been copied from Dr. Diemberger's drawings, by us—Editor.]

There are four Lunkhos:

1. Lunkho-i-Hawar (former Lunkho East = Lunkho II).
   No. 331 Wala.* Height: Wala = 6,872 m.; Gruber = 6,895 m.
2. Lunkho-i-Dosare (former Lunkho West = Lunkho I).
   No. 320 Wala. Height: Wala - 6,868 m.; Gruber = 6,902 m.
3. Lunkho-i-Kucheck (Little Lunkho, east of Hawar).
   No. 369 Wala. Height: Wala = 6,354 m. (unclimbed until 1969).
4. Lunkho-i-Maghreb.
   No. 321 Wala. Height: Wala = 6,450 m.

Ascents of Lunkho-i-Hawar:

1. 1967. East Peak and Eastern Central Peak (Main Peak).
   First ascent: Japanese team starting from south (Chitral).
2. 1968. Western Central Peak (Austrians stated that the
   Central Peaks have the same height). 13.8 first ascent (Austrians Grimmlinger, V. D. Hecken, Hintermayer, Pressl; Yugoslavians Sazonov, Stane Belak). 17.8 second ascent (Austrians Habrel, Koblmuller). They did not climb East or Eastern Central Peak. The Austrians and Yugoslavians started from north Khandud Valley, Wakhan.
3. 1968. Scottish team (I. G. Rowe, R. A. North) reached
   a point of the western part of Lunkho-i-Hawar. There are some towers and little peaks (western peaks). The point (peak ?) reached lies a quarter of a mile west of the Western Central Peak. The team started from the Ishmurgh Valley, Wakhan. They climbed to the ridge, dividing the Ishmurgh and the Khandud Valley, and along that ridge to the Lunkho-i-Hawar (western peaks), on 3 September 1968.

* Mag. Jng. Jerzy Wala, Krakow, the Polish specialist and cartographer, on his latest map of high Hindu Kush has numbered the peaks 1-569 ; he has also given the names of Lunkho I-III. Lunkho-i-Mgahreb was named in 1968.

LUNKHOS FROM SOUTH

LUNKHOS FROM NORTH

Ascents of Lunkho-i-Dosare:

It is the highest of all Lunkhos. The western peak is higher than the eastern peak.

1. 1967. Attempted by a German party, starting from south
   (Chitral).
2. 1968. East and West Peaks:
   4.8 first ascent (Austrians Grimmlinger, Habrel, Koblmuller; Yugoslavians Draslar, Stupnik, starting from north Khandud Valley, Wakhan).
3. 1968. West Peak (Main Peak):
   20.8 second ascent (Polish Klausnicer, Olech, Palczew- ski, Strupczewski, starting from north Yamit Valley, Wakhan).

Ascents of Lunkho-i-Maghreb :

1. 1968. Main Peak.
   11.8 first ascent (Polish Strupczewski, Wojnarski; Italians Nusdeo, Oppio, Pizzocolo).
   20.8 second ascent (Polish Czechowski, Pawlowski, Radeo, Skupisz, Wojnarski, starting from Yamit Valley, Wakhan).
2. 1958. North-east Peak.
   10.8 first ascent (Austrians Habrel, Koblmuller, starting from the Khandud Valley, Wakhan).

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