THE SARAGHRAR PEAKS

DR. A. DIEMBERGER

[We are indebted to Dr. A. Diemberger for this short review. Notes in brackets have been appended by the editor from references to Sangaku, Vol. LXXII, 1968, and the H.J., Vol. XXVIII, 1967-68—Editor.]

There are seven peaks to the Saraghrar massiff:

1. Saraghrar I (Main) (7,349 m. Wala—195)

The first ascent was by an Italian Expedition led by Fosco Maraini in 1959 from the Niroghi glacier.

The second ascent was made by the two-man team from the Niigata University Mountaineering Club in 1967, climbing from the Hushko glacier. (This expedition called this peak ‘Saraghrar North' and recorded it as 7,338 m. The same height and nomenclature has been published in the H.J., Vol. XXVIII, p. 82, when describing another Japanese ascent of Saraghrar South.)

2. Saraghrar II

3. Saraghrar III

These are secondary peaks on the ridge descending to the Rosh Gol, 7,200 m. to 7,300 m. in height.

The names Saraghrar I, II and III were given by the Italians. (These points can be clearly seen in the photo accompanying the Japanese Expedition article in the H.J., Vol. XXVIII—the second plate between pages 84 and 85.) They are unclimbed (till 1969).

4. Saraghrar North (Punta Alpignano) (7,040 m. Wala—194)

The first ascent was by the 1959 Italian Expedition and was climbed on their way to Saraghrar I, as was the second ascent by the Japanese Expedition in 1967c

5. Saraghrar South (c. 7,300 m. Wala—196)

The first ascent was in 1967 by the Hitotsubashi University Mountaineering Club climbing from the Rosh Gol (see article in the H.J., Vol. XXVIII, 1967-68).

6. Saraghrar East (or South-east) (c. 7,200 m. Wala—197) Unclimbed until 1969.

7. Saraghrar Brink (c. 6,600 m. (?) Wala—198)

First ascent was made in 1967 by a German Expedition climbing from the Niroghi glacier.

In 1958 a British Expedition attempted to climb from the Northern cwm in the Rosh Gol but had to abandon it because of the death of one of the members.

THE SARAGHRAR PEAKS

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