TREKKING IN KASHMIR

H. STEYSKAL

where to go when you want to spend your holidays in the mountains of India ? Being foreigners we could not think of trekking in those areas we desired most of all, i.e. behind the present inner line where one can come close to the giants of the Great Himalaya. Remained the Kulu Valley, the Chamba area and Kashmir. Incidentally, a sentence of an article in the Himalayan Journal helped us to decide. R. L. Holdsworth in his survey, 'Moderate Mountains for Middle-aged Mountaineers wrote in H.J., Vol. XXV, 1964, about Kashmir and that he climbed Mt. Haramukh, a genuine snow mountain of nearly 17,000 feet, in one day by the easiest route from the Gangabal Lake. This short remark appeared very inviting to me as well as to my wife, both of us approaching the sixties. We wanted to see that mountain which, by the way, seemed to be rarely visited. We also hoped to set our foot on the snows of other mountains in Kashmir at the same time. The only remaining problem was to find an English-speaking local guide for the approach to Mt. Haramukh since maps of Kashmir were not available.

When the heat in Rajasthan became oppressive at the end of May 1969, we left for Srinagar. By some lucky coincidence we became acquainted with a young man named Yousuf Chapri who offered to arrange the trek to Mt. Haramukh. After a chat with his father, Gaffara Chapri, who turned out to be a well-known guide of the old times we agreed upon a meeting on 12 June at Naranag, a minute hamlet in a side valley of the Sind River, where we could park our car.

But first we spent a few days in Gulmarg hoping to become acclimatized to higher altitudes than the plains of Rajasthan. To the disappointment of innumerable horsemen, we trudged every day to some higher situated spots. The snow was still deep on the slopes of Apharwar (4,400 m.) above Khilanmarg (3,200 m.), but hard enough to make the climb quite easy. Across the Kashmir Valley at our feet, Mt. Haramukh showed its bastionlike silhouette and at about 45 degrees to the left of it, Nanga Parbat offered a splendid view of its ice-clad slopes.

From Gulmarg we drove to Sonamarg (2,670 m.) for a visit to the Thajiwas Valley—the valley of glaciers. Strolling along the roaring Sind River in the late afternoon sun and admiring the beautiful mountain sceneries around us, we approached the bridge on the road to Baltal at the exit of the hamlet. Here we had to turn since the bridge marks the beginning of a restricted area. Next day, before the daily rush of visitors from Srinagar arrived by bus, we walked leisurely the comfortable path around the NW-spur of Zabnar towards the Thajiwas Valley. It was a beautiful morning. The way led first through meadows abundant in small blue lilies. On our left, the dark green of firs and pines swept down the inclines. The further we went the more impressive rose Thajiwas Peak (4,800 m.) behind the green slopes in front of us. A grey pyramid against a blue sky, covered in its central part by glittering ice, watching over the entrance to the valley. We passed by the first snow-field—the goal of all pony-riding visitors—and soon grass and stones gave way to a continuous snow-field. We climbed steadily up in the valley, wandering to and fro to find the easiest way in snow which resembled the frozen waves of a choppy sea. The view on our right was magnificent. A chain of peaks, each more than 4,500 m., bordered the valley, interspersed with glaciers and icefalls, with dark ridges of rock leading to the summits. After a few hours' march in splendid solitude we reached the end of the valley. A steep snow slope rose in front of us, leading to a col (4,300 m.) between Valehead Peak (4,700 m.) and Mosquito Peak. Meanwhile dark clouds had cropped up in the north-west. We turned back and soon thunder was rumbling. We reached Sonamarg as the first drops were falling.

The next day, 11 June, we followed the road to Srinagar as far as Kangan bus-station. From there a narrow but rather good road leads up into the Wangat Valley. Climbing steadily we passed through Wangat village and reached Naranag after four more kilometres. There are only a few houses scattered in the valley, a small unfurnished rest-house being among them. We installed ourselves there, prepared some food and then strolled around amongst the ruins of a very old temple which we found at a stone's throw from the rest-house. Towards evening, Yousuf arrived with three riding ponies, two pack-ponies and three horsemen. A great welcome, more food, coffee, tea and cigarettes! Early to bed and early up next morning. Packing the horses took some time but about 8 a.m. we were setting out for Mt. Haramukh (' Face of Hara', i.e. Siva), the first horse trek in our life. Preparations for mountaineering in the European Alps had been a little different.

The ascent of the northern slope of the valley began immediately. A path trampled by herds of sheep and goats led so steeply upwards through the forest that we pitied the poor ponies and did not mount them. After about two hours we rested for a short while at a big boulder in the forest. Yousuf told us that the locality was called Bold Path. Continuing the climb, we passed the tree-line around midday and arrived at something like the edge of a plateau, Botni Pansan. We proceeded towards Harigund, a narrow passage between some cliffs. From here on the northern slopes of the terrain were covered with deep snow and the ponies had a hard time. Riding was not possible as it had not been most of the time before. We passed by Trankul where shepherds were living in one or two huts and went on towards north-west. Finally, around 4 p.m. we came to a halt. We found ourselves near the base of Mt. Haramukh, below the east face of what seemed to us its southernmost highest top (5,008 m.). The whole range of this mountain extended several kilometres towards north. The ponies could not go further. We were on the crest of a ridge, its southern slope the last bare place before continuous snow-fields two feet deep stretched along the east side of the Haramukh range. I was in a sad mood when we pitched our tents at an estimated altitude of 3,300 m. because it became clear that we could not try Holdsworth's route which was to begin at Gangabal Lake (3,500 m.). The lake is situated at the northern end of the massif, in prevailing conditions still several hours' march from our camp. We were slow and could not cover much distance or height in one day. Yousuf told us that he never before had seen so much snow in this area. In spring 1969 the snowfall was unusually great in Kashmir, and as late as six weeks before our trek.

Anyhow, next day we started towards Gangabal Lake. We stayed for a while on the shores of the frozen Nandkol Lake which lies at the foot of some precipitous walls on the east face of the Haramukh group. Further on our way we experienced some difficulties in crossing Gang ab, the outlet of Gangabal Lake. Around midday we arrived at the southern end of the frozen lake which stretches about 2-3 km. towards the north. Yousuf stayed behind while my wife and I walked along the lake looking for the route Holdsworth might have taken. Since he was alone I guess he might have made his approach from the north end of the lake where there are one or two easier routes on snow-fields. It was impossible to say if they would lead across the range to its invisible west side and from there to one of the summits. To reach them directly from the east did not appear to be an easy task.

As we returned to our camp we tried to avoid the troublesome crossing of Gang ab. We followed its left bank downwards until we could cross at a constriction where Yousuf found an improvized bridge made by shepherds. Our camp was now right above us on the crest of a ridge which we reached after ascending its northern slope.

The next day we visited a pass just beneath the south end of the Haramukh massif. I would estimate its height at 3,900 m. Soft waves in the terrain led up to it from our camp. Ideally suited for skiing we thought while trudging upwards through the glittering snow. Yousuf mentioned after our arrival at the crest that one could descend from there to Chhatargul. We had been curious to know if something of Haramukh's west side could be seen from the pass. Unfortunately, a group of peaks extending north-west barred the view. The south face of Haramukh, however, rose to an impressive height directly above the pass. Opposite to it, not far from us, a nice snow ridge led up to a minor peak of approximately 4,100-4,200 m. height. Yousuf and I climbed it and we got a good view of the small frozen Kaul Sar Lake below us. When we reached the peak we had aimed for, we discovered that the actual summit a little higher than ours was still at some distance, separated from us by a serrated ridge with heavy snow cornices. We did not like this continuation, so after a short rest we descended again to the pass where my wife had been waiting in the warm sunshine. Back in the camp we enjoyed now the third wonderful evening and the splendid panorama which this site offered us. The rays of the setting sun were like arrows flying from behind the huge dark silhouette of Haramukh, flooding the opposite long range of Nau Kan (' nine ears') with its many rocky and snow-clad peaks with golden light.

The following day we returned to Naranag the same way we had arrived. Again the riding ponies were more or less useless to us. While we were breaking up the party down in Naranag, a small military patrol came to see us and soon Yousuf was engaged in a heated argument with them. However, after some time everything seemed to be settled because their leader and Yousuf hugged each other heartily. Later Yousuf explained to us that they were stationed in Naranag and that they had reproached him for his negligence to inform them about our trek.

After a couple of days in Srinagar we met Yousuf with ponies and men again, this time in Pahlgam for a trek to the Kolahoi glacier. We camped in the upper part of the West Liddar Valley, about 3-4 km. beyond Liddarwat. Next morning we went further up the river, partly leading and partly mounting our ponies, leaving the pack-ponies at the camp. After 6-7 km. the valley widens somewhat, making a sharp right angle bend from north-east towards south-east. There is a place called ‘seven streams' where a number of, at that time, quite fierce brooks, swollen by the thawing snow on sunny slopes, join the Liddar. One of them drenched us up to the thighs when we waded it on pony back. Actually, under those circumstances it would have been better to cross the Liddar River on the snow bridge which is nearby and to proceed on the opposite bank until a primitive bridge allows one to cross back. We tried this alternative successfully on our way back.

The bottom of the valley began to rise now and the snow-fields became larger and larger. Soon we had to leave the ponies and a man behind. We entered the uppermost part of the Liddar Valley, a large snow-clad bowl. In front of us, to the east, rose magnificent twin peaks separated by a glacier from a main peak behind (4,800 m.) while a new valley opened to the right, leading to the northern glacier of Kolahoi. We turned into it and, keeping to the left side, ascended the snow-fields. All the time, Kolahoi Peak (5,400 m.) was visible to the right above us, slowly changing its bold pyramidal form as seen from the north into a more roof-like shape the further we penetrated into the valley. The horizontal stratification of the rocky pyramid was really striking, underlined as it was by the parallel streaks of snow extending all over the mountain. As we approached the large rock island which divides the glacier into a western and an eastern part, we roped together since fissures became visible under the snow cover. We were now just in front of the icefall of the western glacier. The slope increased and we panted heavily. We reached a sort of landing at around 4,000-4,100 m. altitude from where the continuation of our route would lead through a shallow snow valley ascending at a gentle pace towards the south. Since it was about 3 p.m. we decided to return to our camp which we reached just before sunset. The next day we returned to Pahlgam.

This had been our last trek in Kashmir. We had now seen the areas which are usually recommended to the prospective visitor interested in mountain sceneries of Kashmir, add to it then the less frequented Haramukh range. We had not climbed any remarkable peak. We had just been rambling around in shepherds' tracks and on the snows. Thanks to the outfit we had brought with us we could go a bit further than the bulk of tourists do in Sonamarg and Pahlgam. We could enter the silent world of the mountains and we were richly rewarded by their grandeur, loftiness and beauty!

Appendix

For those who plan to go on treks or to climb mountains in Kashmir, a few practical details are worthy of mention.

Expenses will vary considerably with the desired comfort. The short distances between Prospective Base Camps for mountain ascents and the villages connected by bus with Srinagar should not completely exclude that approach which is common in Europe, i.e. to carry outfit and food on one's own back. The same would be true for treks of not more than one week's duration.

Pack-ponies, one for each active member of the party, would offer a second not very expensive alternative. The rates are Rs. 10-15 per pony and day. Riding ponies are optional of course. We found their usefulness rather limited. They would cost somewhat more than pack-ponies.

Fresh and canned food can be bought in Srinagar and Pahlgam. Kangan has a more limited choice and Sonamarg still less.

Foreigners will normally require an English-speaking guide for obvious reasons. He also can save trouble for the party if he organizes the complete set-up—arguments, e.g. with horsemen, are not uncommon-but the expenses would increase considerably. A four days' trek for two people with guide, riding and pack- ponies and horsemen would probably cost not less than Rs.500- 700 including all meals.

Equipment has to be brought to Kashmir. There is nothing on sale, only heavy tents can be hired.

In the areas dominated by Mt. Haramukh and Kolahoi Peak, many summits of 4,500-5,000 m. height can be found. Some of them have certainly been climbed as mentioned in A Climber's Guide to Sonamarg¹ but quite a number are still virgin. They offer rock-climbing and smaller glacier expeditions. It would hardly take more than 2-3 days to reach their bases from Srinagar. This should facilitate further exploration of these areas which undoubtedly deserve to become a playground for young mountaineers.

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