IN MEMORIAM

KO YOSHIDA (1913-2009)

Ko Yoshida, an honorary member of the Himalayan Club and an ex-council member of the Japanese Alpine Club who has passed away at the age of 96.

Yoshida was born in 1913 and during his early years he worked as a business man and served as an army officer. He started his climbing career when he was a university student and became more active in the field from the 1970s. He scaled many high peaks in the Alps, Africa and Asia. He was a member of the Himalayan Club since 1978. Besides being a successful business executive, he also supported the activities of the world famous adventurer, Naomi Uemura, who was the first man to scale the highest peaks of five continents by using his extensive international connections. Yoshida managed to draw world attention to Uemura. His philanthropic spirit reached beyond alpinism to the Boy Scout movement. In 1993, he was given the Bronze Wolf, the highest medal presented by the World Scout Foundation, for his devoted activities over many years. In 2008, he was honoured by the Scout Association of Japan and presented with the highest award-Golden Pheasant Medal. At that time, he was the Chairman of the Japan Chapter of Baden Powell World Fellowship.

Ko Yoshida passed away peacefully at his home in Tokyo on February 27, 2009. His Majesty King Carl XVl Gustaf of Sweden, who is the President of the World Scout Association, sent flowers to his funeral to express his condolence to his friend Yoshida.

YUICHI MATSUDA

SANATAN BHATTACHARYA (1942-2009)

He was born at Muzzaffarpur and did both his schooling and higher studies from there. In 1962 he was absorbed at SBI, Pusha Branch, Bihar but within couple of years had been transferred to Burrabazar Branch at Kolkata. He learned French and was fond of swimming and Western music.

After doing a few treks in the Himalaya in late Sixties, he completed his Basic and Advance mountaineering courses in 1970 and 1972 respectively. Under the kind patronage of late Dr. M L Biswas the famous pediatrician and former Vice President of the Himalayan Club, The Institute of Exploration was set up at his residence. Sanatan became a member of the Institute and led an expedition to explore the lesser known Bara Shigri glacier. His team members made the first ascent of the peak Central (6285 m) and first Indian ascent to the peak Lion (6126 m) situated at the extreme Northeast of the glacier on 29th and 27th June 1972 respectively.

In 1974, Sanatan formed The Climbers' Group to promote mountaineering and high altitude trekking in his State and also to encourage and assist Rock Climbing Courses conducted by the various mountaineering clubs of West Bengal. In 1975, Climbers' Group organized an expedition to Mrigthuni (6855 m) and Devtoli (6788 m) under his leadership which climbed Mrigthuni on 21 September.

Being his colleague as well as close associate, Netai Ray introduced Sanatan to the Himalayan Club in 1978 and in 1981 Sanatan became the Hon. Asst. Equipment Officer and continued for a year.

In 1981 he penetrated the Panpatia glacier and attempted Parvati Parvat (6257 m) and next an expedition to Central Lahaul and climbed Lacharang peak situated NE of Baralacha pass. To commemorate the 125th anniversary of the first ascent of Shilla (6132 m) by a survey-khalasi in 1860 and also to celebrate The International Youth Year, Sanatan led an expedition to Spiti in 1985 which climbed Shilla on 31 August and a lesser peak Kawu. They also attempted Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303 m) through its SE ridge.

Sanatan had also founded another voluntary Institution namely Rock Climbing School and formulated its own syllabi for basic and advance rock climbing, adventure camping for novices, Leadership and Method of Instruction Courses. Mrs. Sonia Gandhi, the Chairperson of Rajiv Gandhi Foundation took personal interest and released a grant towards founding an adventure library and procuring equipment to develop the adventure activities in this region. Apart from high altitude trekking programs, they also organised mountaineering expeditions to Ashagiri, Indrasan, Ramjak, Dongrimo and climbed Fluted peak (6159 m) in Spiti area of HP.

Besides being a lover of Himalaya, Sanatan was a voracious reader and planned meticulously for every mountaineering venture. In 1988 Himalayan Club observed its 60 glorious years of its existence. Sanatan offered his bank premises at Dalhousie Square where we used to assemble after office hours frequently for making this Diamond Jubilee Celebrations a success.

Sanatan retired from SBI in 2002 but he was not keeping well. On 27 January, 2009 he breathed his last. He was survived by his wife, daughter, son-in-law and a host of friends and well wishers.

I was closely associated with Sanatan for last 40 years though after his retirement his movement was restricted. In his death Himalayan Club has lost one of its valued members and I missed a beloved friend.

May his soul rest in peace.

PRABHAT KUMAR GANGULI

COMMANDER JOGINDER SINGH (1928-2009)

Commander Joginder Singh, a former Naval officer/ITB Police officer / Air India Executive and above all, an eminent mountaineer, peacefully passed away in the early hours of 11 August 2009. He had imbibed the spirit of adventure early in life. Even before embarking on his career, he drove his car from Jalandar to the tip of South India, passing through villages, half-developed roads and wild jungles, tasting all sorts of adventure en route.

I first met him on 8 March, 1954 when both of us landed at INS Venduruthy, Cochin, to start our career in the Indian Navy and became good friends. This friendship kept on growing with years as after 1963, soon after the Sino-Indian War, we moved to the Indo-Tibetan Border police and in 1971, After I was posted to Australia, he did marvelous job in Air India, promoting Himalayan adventures worldwide.

Jogi, as every one lovingly called him, was a warm hearted, sincere and caring friend. As a mountaineer he served the IMF as Honorary Secretary for several years. In 1964, he joined with me the Indian expedition to Nanda Devi East. Jogi's biggest mountaineering achievement however came in 1973 when he led the successful ITB Police expedition to the virgin and difficult peak of Saser Kangri. (25,146 ft). This remains till today the highest virgin peak climbed by an Indian team. Prime Minister Indira Gandhi described his achievement thus:

Through all the tumult and drama of Indian history, the Himalaya have stood firm and tall summoning us to a higher purpose and to the fulfillment of a destiny of which they have been the supreme symbol. These mountains of unsurpassed grandeur have been hallowed by the sublime reflections of saints and sages. They are the cradle of the great river This grand mountain, known as the Yellow Goddess, had defied and thrown back one expedition after another, for many years remaining the highest unclimbed peak of the Himalaya-Karakoram range. Let us remember however that there is no such thing as conquest. While each expedition learns much more from the experience of previous ones, the struggle and the effort remain, and no matter how many climbers reach the top, the climb loses none of its dangers. I am glad to know that this expedition was self-contained, dispensing with the usual retinue of porters which traverse our sub-continent.

In 1977, Jogi and I were both invited by Sir Edmund Hillary to join his 'Ocean to Sky' Jet Boat expedition up the Ganges. Jogi played an important role and by his friendly and pleasant temperament endeared himself to Ed and all members of the Indo-New Zealand team.

For his outstanding services to the nation, he was awarded the honour of Padma Shri. During the past few years he has been devoting his considerable time to promote adventure through 'Mountaineering and Explorers Club' as its Founder President. His sudden demise is a big loss to the mountaineering fraternity of India. He leaves behind his wife Sharda, son Ashish, daughter Sheena and a large number of admirers.

CAPTAIN M.S. KOHLI