Chong Kumdan II

Paulo Grobel

First Ascent

AN INDIAN FRENCH expedition has scored a notable coup by making the first ascent of one of the relatively few remaining unclimbed 7000 m peaks in the Indian Himalaya; Chong Kumdan II (7004 m) in the East Karakoram.

A French guide from La Grave, Paulo Grobel, combined a team of French clients with a group of Indian instructors for an expedition to the bureaucratically complex and geographically remote East Karakoram. Climbing in this military restricted region, close to the war-torn Siachen glacier, is only possible for a foreign expedition if jointly organised with Indian mountaineers.

The isolated Chong Kumdan group was well-explored in 1991 by an Indian British expedition that climbed a total of 10 peaks, including the first ascent of the highest, Chong Kumdan I (7071 m). This team approached first along the Shyok river and then west up the long Chong Kumdan glacier. During the expedition joint leader Harish Kapadia investigated an approach to the Nup la (c. 6250 m), the col at the head of the glacier immediately south of Chong Kumdan II. Huge crevasse fields barred his way, making an approach to CK II both difficult and lengthy. A later foray to the north side of this peak showed no easy route and it was the only major summit in the group not attempted.^{^[1]}

Starting from BC on the Mamostong glacier to the col

Mamostong Kangri.

South Terong glacier. ‘French Pass’ is right extreme of the picture.

In 2007, an Indian American team returned to the Chong Kumdan glacier with CK II as its main goal. Again, huge gaping crevasses and towering seracs barred access to this high, unclimbed peak and the team turned to CK I, where they made the second ascent via a new route.^{^[2]}
That same year, I led a commercially organised expedition to Mamostong Kangri (7576 m), a peak south of the Chong Kumdan group, making a successful ascent from the south. I realised that from Mamostong base camp there was a long but feasible glacial route north, crossing several high cols, which would lead to the Nup la and south ridge of CK II. In 2008 I decided to put this idea to the test.

At the beginning of August, our team left the 4900 m Mamostong base camp and with the help of a number of high altitude Ladakhi porters, moved slowly, but more or less continuously, towards our goal. After nine days the expedition had crossed one previously unnamed col to the South Terong glacier, traversed north and crossed a second pass to gain the upper reaches of the Chong Kumdan glacier. Taking time out near the second col, we climbed a previously virgin summit of more than 6000 m, naming it 'HMI Peak' (the Indian members of our expedition came from Darjeeling's Himalayan Mountaineering Institute).

Descending from the main summit of Chong Kumdan II

Close up of Chong Kumdan I (7071 m) from the summit of Chong Kumdan II

View of main summit of Chong Kumdan II from the long summit ridge

Looking down to Mamostong glacier and Camp 2 from Mamostong Col.

Looking down to the South Terong glacier.

At this point most Indian mountaineers and the porters returned, leaving four French and two Indians to continue towards CK II.

Eleven days after leaving base camp, Camp 8 (6550 m) was placed above the Nup la on the south ridge of CK II. The ridge sported four separate summits and on the following day all members of the team (Indians - Samgyal Sherpa and Konchok Thinless; French - Sebastiano Audisio, Paulo Grobel, Bernard Meurin and Dominique Ravot) reached the most southerly summit, which they named 'Chong Kumdan Mont Blanc'. The following morning, day 13, after leaving base, Audiso, Grobel and Ravot crossed another summit ('Cima Daniela') to reach the main summit.

View of Mamostong col from Camp 2.

Ridge to the main summit of Chong Kumdan II (right).

Descent was rapid and in two and a half days all climbers were reunited at Mamostong base camp. Although the technical difficulties were modest (AD for the final section with the steepest part reaching the Nup la), this was a highly committing journey through complex and often delicate terrain. Our adoption in recent years of a slow but steady ascent from base camp, where relatively small daily height gains allow for good acclimatisation, seems to be paying off.

Summary :

First ascent of Chong Kumdan II (7004 m), a remote mountain in the East Karakoram area, by a Indo-French team in August 2008. Main summit was reached by Sebastiano Audisio, Paulo Grobel and Dominique Ravot (French)

See http://www.paulo-grobel.com/05_expes/Fiches_PDF/cr_chong_kumdan.htm for many pictures and text in French

[1] See HJ. Vol. 48, p. 97.

[2] See HJ. Vol. 62, p. 141.