The Everest Olympic

Colonel Ashok Abbey

Amongst the mountains of the world, none is perhaps more enigmatic and alluring than Everest. Ever since it was first climbed in 1953, the lure of Everest has is no way diminished with time and it continues to be the most sought after, single mountain summit of the world. Despite frequent outbursts by climbers and environmentalists, against human traffic jams on the mountain and the resultant environmental degradation, humans continue to throng its high ramparts with impunity, virtually oblivious to everything else but their summit objective. Has the mountain become easy over the years, because of a seemingly a high success rate as is popularly perceived or is it a better generation of climbers, well equipped and trained, attempting the mountain, is an issue which can be eternally debated. But unquestionably, the stakes on Everest are very high today. The commercialisation of the mountain is complete, with a lot at stake for the stakeholders, namely the climbers, the clients and their commercial agencies, the Sherpas and the entire mountain community, for whom earnings from the mountain is the primary source of livelihood.

The world 2008 was a landmark year in the history of world sport, for it was the year of the Olympics, the greatest sporting event of the world. As China prepared for the mega Beijing Olympics, little did it strike Chomolungma and the mountaineering fraternity, that the events preceding the Olympic games would affect their climbing attempt on the mountain, as never before. In fact, the events of 2008 delivered a near fate accompli blow and virtually forced the mountain, into conducting it's own mega climbing activity, with its own set of restrictions, rules and regulations.

As the world witnessed the political events unfolding in Tibet 2008, China virtually closed the mountain from the north and hardly any expedition permits were issued. The mountain was kept exclusively for the Chinese Olympic Torch Expedition and security being top priority, the Nepal Tibet Border was sealed. As a result of this move, practically all expeditions from the north of the mountain were cancelled. Consequently a number of expeditions at the last minute also, switched from the north to the south face of the mountain. A situation like this was almost unprecedented, at least in the recent years of the mountain's climbing history. The result was a staggering 44 expeditions to the Everest massif, with 32 teams vying for the summit of Everest alone. This was by far one of the biggest conglomeration of climbers and climbing teams on Everest in a single year - it was the Everest Olympic!

The regulations of climbing on Everest this year were also unprecedented and unique in many ways, with security of the Olympic Torch Expedition being the overriding factor. Expedition leaders were briefed on the terms and conditions for climbing which appeared to be quite stringent, to say the least. No climber, was to proceed beyond Camp 2 before 10 May, 2008. The team was to deposit its complete electronic equipment, which had to be locked up in the police post established at the base camp and used only under supervision. The expedition team had to register daily attendance of it's members and helpers. Teams were forbidden to carry and exhibit any objectionable flags, banners, stickers, pamphlets or any audio visual devices. The liaison officer could check any suspicious looking equipment and could send back the team or any member of the team to Kathmandu. The rules were many and as players of the game, we hoped to do our best and cooperate with the authorities. Finally shedding all our inhibitions, 15 of us including three incredibly strong women and three support members, flew into the fascinating Tensing Hillary Airport at Lukla (2840 m) in the early hours of 4 April. The crisp air of Solu Khumbu was refreshing and the Everest aura was all prevailing!

Lukla is the gateway to Everest. As our team, which was a perfect blend of youth and experience walked through this one street, fast growing mini township, I was flooded with fond nostalgic memories of my 2003 Everest expedition^[1]. With every step, the team rejoiced being in the shadow of the mother goddess of the world! On 02 April at Monjo (2480 m), we entered the Sagarmatha National Park. On 05 April, after acclimatising in and around at Namche Bazar, which as compared to 2003 was now more choked with hotels and lodges, the expedition team reached Tengboche (3860 m). The team here performed a special pooja and prayed at the Everest Memorial Chorten. It was also blessed in person by the venerable Ngawang Tenzing Zangpo Rimpoche, the Abbot of the historic Tengboche monastery. En route to Dingboche (4410 m), we also prayed at the famous Pangboche gompa at the village of Pangboche (3930 m), which is the oldest monastery of the region. We crossed the Thokla pass (4830 m) on 11 April 08, en route to Lobuje (4910 m). On the pass, we paid a silent tribute to the known and the unknown mountaineers amidst numerous memorials, which was a gory reminder of the human lives lost on Everest. We reached Gorakshep (5140 m) or the 'grave of crows' on 12 April. The last lap to the Everest base camp from Gorakshep, was along the south western lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier. The Khumbu glacier itself, in comparison to 2003, seemed to have shrunk in height. Our 'cold coffee' and 'ice cream' (glacial formations) of 2003, had vanished.

Everest base camp (EBC), was established on the traditional site of the northern lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier, under the shadow of the southwest ridge emanating from Khumbutse. It was occupied by our team on 14 April, at 5364 m. The EBC was as always an amazing sight. With 44 expeditions attempting Everest and Lhotse, it was a mini township, where high crimes, peculiar to mountain climbing were not exactly uncommon, The multi-coloured tents, national flags of different countries and numerous Buddhist prayer flags, brought to life the otherwise bleak moraine. The nearly two kilometre spread of the EBC could take anything up to 30 to 50 minutes, to traverse from end to end. From an exhibition to a Cyber cafe, from a bakery to mobile Kiosks, EBC had it all! Astronauts, NASA scientists, researchers, soldiers, lawyers, mountain guides to first time and old clients, doctors etc, the EBC was well represented by climbers from all walks of life. It was defacto the Olympic village!

The route ahead of the EBC lay through the badly broken Khumbu icefall. The Khumbu glacier breaks into an icefall, just below the Western Cwm. The icefall, which was a big, unstable arena of seracs, ice-towers, ice-blocks and crevasses, was almost 500 m longer this year, as compared to 2003. From EBC we moved diagonally towards the direction of the west ridge and then traversed back to the centre of the icefall, thus avoiding the middle portion, which was completely broken and dangerous. We negotiated 58 ladders between EBC and Camp 1, spanning all types of crevasses. The Khumbu icefall was and will always remain a daunting place, with a high potential for an accident. Ladder crossings on this unique highway were choke points, which at times led to traffic snarls between climbers, which were not always pleasant. Fortunately excepting for a few minor accidents, the mountain protector was kind. A team of seven dedicated 'Icefall Doctors' of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) maintained the route, for universal use over the icefall. The route was much longer and as complicated, as it was in 2003.

Camp 1 was occupied by members on 26 April, at 5950 m. The camp which was sited at the tip of the Western Cwm, was equi-distant from the West Ridge of Everest and the Nuptse wall. The spread of the camp was also much bigger, due to the number of the expeditions. The route for Camp 1 to Camp 2, was through the heart of the Western Cwm. From the top of the icefall, the cwm took a gentle south easterly direction towards the Lhotse face. The route was riddled with deep chasms - the jaws of death were always prominent by their presence! 15 ladders were negotiated by the team, between Camp 1 and 2. The steep containing walls of the Western Cwm were dangerous and prone to frequent avalanches!

Camp 2 was finally occupied at 6250 m on 27 April, under the towering Southwest Face of Everest. The camp was spread out longitudinally, on a bleak strip of glacial moraine, which took almost 40 to 60 minutes to traverse. There was a scramble amongst the Sherpas to get a good campsite for their respective teams, but at the end of the day there was adequate space for everybody.

As no team was permitted to cross Camp 2 before 10 May, the camp became a stop gap destination, for all expeditions. Climbing beyond Camp 2 was prohibited, till such time the Chinese Olympic Torch Event Expedition climbed the mountain. Soldiers and security personnel were pre positioned at base camp and Camp 2 and Jets carried out regular aerial surveillance. Finally to everyone's relief, the Chinese Olympic Torch Expedition scaled the mountain on 08 May. With 23 days of the climbing season remaining, the Everest Olympic for the climbers had truly begun.

The route to Camp 3 was over the broken icefield, at the head of the Western Cwm, after which the headwall of Lhotse was negotiated to gain the Lhotse face. A steady climb thereafter with blue ice in patches, led to Camp 3 which was occupied on 13 May, at 7400 m. The camp was split into three blobs, with an upper, middle and a lower Camp 3. Climbers shared the fixed rope patiently, which was the only lifeline, on the precarious face. Above Camp 3, the team crossed the Yellow Band. Often referred to as the highest geological default in the world, the band is primarily composed of the sedimentary rocks, which were weakly metamorphosed and over the years have transformed primarily into shale and limestone.

On a mountain like Everest, potential for a disaster is always looming high, especially during movement in the icefall, on the Lhotse face and a traffic jam on the Hillary step. The large number of climbers attempting the summit on a single day, was also a grave cause of concern and it was therefore imperative for the teams to space out, during the final push. A consensus amongst teams on this aspect was difficult and eventually it was the mountain's call and the teams ability to respond it, which eventually dictated the timing, for the summit attempt.

On an 8000 m mountain, good weather is a key factor for success. High winds and low clouds on any mountain can mar any summit attempt and on Everest this was no exception. Leader's final decision- making was based on the excellent weather input, which the team received from National Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasting, (NCMRFW) New Delhi. The weather on Everest was conducive for the summit attempt between 16 to 22 May. The plans now hinged on the stocking of the South Col, which only began on 11 May. The team after completing its acclimatisation phase, moved down from Camp 3 to base camp. The leader however stayed put at Camp 2 along with the Sherpa Sirdar for the stocking of South Col, which was critical for success. South Col was fully stocked by 19 May 08.



On 20 May, the team comprising the leader and all eleven members moved up and occupied Camp 3. On 21 May, the team which was in excellent physical condition left Camp 3 at 0530 hrs and took just 4 hours to reach South Col. En route, they crossed the Yellow Band which took just 2 hrs and 25 minutes to negotiate. The summit team, now comprising of nine members was poised at South Col.

On 21 May which was the D Day, the team commenced moving from South Col at 2010 hrs. Almost 6 teams comprising of nearly 80 climbers and Sherpas, were also attempting the summit. The team owing to it's superb physical fitness and endurance, easily outpaced the others and reached the Balcony at 2245 hrs. They touched South Summit at 2345 hrs and by 0230 hrs had crossed the Hillary Step. It was a proud moment, when on 22 May 09 at 0358 hrs, the first member stood on the summit. By 0407 hrs, the whole team had closed in, with their team Sherpas still far behind. Patiently they waited for the first rays of dawn and feasted, on the grand view of the world below them. After spending nearly an hour on the summit, at 0510 hrs the team commenced it's descent. Four members reached South Col by 0710 hrs, taking just about 2 hours for the descent.













The Rescue above South Col

On May 22, 2008 as four members were descending after their successful climb, their attention was drawn to a red sleeping bag, which was lying exposed, below the Balcony. The sleeping bag had a human body inside, which was anchored to a fixed rope. Their curiosity got the better of them. They then went closer, uncovered the face and to their amazement found a man who was still alive, trembling and deliriously gasping for breath. He was tied in his sleeping bag, close to where the late Scott Fisher lay resting.

They immediately unzipped the sleeping bag, cleared his air passage and removed the fixed rope, making him as comfortable as they could under the circumstances. They also gave him the last of their water reserves. Simultaneously, one of the members removed his mask and started administering oxygen to him. His face was bruised and his down suit ripped at several places. His harness was damaged, gloves were torn and he had no oxygen with him. Apparently, he was badly frost bitten. As he gradually came to his senses, he introduced himself as Sultan from Oman. He was member of an International expedition group and was being guided to the summit by a mountain guide. Suffering from acute dehydration and altitude sickness, he had been left behind by his team, who had in all probability given him up for dead.

The four members of the Indian team, immediately started preparing to move Sultan down to South Col. As he was very weak by now and in no condition to move on his own, he had to be guided down the fixed ropes. Fortunately the four Indians, though tired after climbing the mountain at 0358 hrs the same day, were still in good physical shape.

While one member physically moved with Sultan, assisting him in retaining his physical balance, clipping and unclipping him on the fixed rope, the others controlled his descent using descenduers, carabineers and pulleys. Sultan was administered oxygen at regular intervals, He himself put in his best, as it was a question of his survival. It was a herculean effort put in by the four Indian climbers, at that altitude in the death zone and that too without any Sherpa support! Surprisingly, no effort was made by anyone from his own team, to reach out to him from South Col. Finally at 0930 hrs, the Indian team members safely guided him to his team's camp at South Col. His team was overjoyed, but surprised to see him alive and ticking! The Indian team members finally left Sultan at South Col after reuniting him with his team.

In a remarkable display of super high altitude endurance and team work, the South Col camp was wound up the same day and the team descended directly to Camp 2. It was perhaps the only team to accomplish the descent from the summit to Camp 2, as a team in pre monsoon 2008. In deteriorating weather conditions, the team descended to base camp on 23 May, crossing the icefall in near flat light conditions, finally reaching the safe precincts of base camp at 1630 hrs.

In the entire gamut of climbing Everest, it is the mountain environment which is the most threatened. While the base camp site is well preserved because of the stringent rules and effective implementation by the SPCC, anything going to Camp 2 and above, excepting the expensive mountain equipment and oxygen bottles which can be reused, nothing really gets back. At Camp 2 and South Col, signs of non bio-degradable are in plenty. A viable action plan to clean up and preserve the environment is an absolute must, in case the mountain is to be preserved for posterity.

The year 2009, will go down the memory lane of Chomolungma, as a special year - the year of the Everest Olympic. While the climbing season ended on a happy note with many summits, yet the sustainability of the mountain to withstand such human onslaughts in future, puts it's very survival at stake! After being for 55 years at the top of world mountaineering, Everest is unlikely to be vanquished by any contender in the near future. The mother goddess of the world may certainly not be, the be all and end all of climbing, but I have little doubt that for many generation of climbers, it will continue to be the ultimate destination!

Summary:

Expedition: India Snow Lion Everest Expedition 2008

Members: Colonel Ashok Abbey (leader) and 11 climbing members, Captain Rahul Mahajan (Medical Officer) and 2 Support Members.

Date & Time of Ascent: 0358 hours on 22 May 2008 by 9 members including 1 woman.

Route: Southeast Ridge

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[1] See HJ Vol. 60, Article 8