Gorge Country in Southeast Tibet and Mountains in Sichuan

Tamotsu Nakamura

DURING THE AUTUMN 2008 expedition to the borderland of Tibet, throughout a 40 day journey, God blessed me with finest weather except a couple of days in Sichuan. The following is a report of the expedition.

Objective of expedition

1. Southeast Tibet - Exploration of Dungri Garpo 6090 m in Deep Gorge Country

No one has accessed this massif from the west and so photos were not available. A name and height of the peak 'Dungri Garpo' are seen only on a map of 1:2,500,000 - 'Map of Mountain Peaks on the Qinghai- Xizang (Tibet) Plateau, published in China.' A huge mountain range named as Nu Shan, watershed of which is shared by the Mekong and Salween rivers, runs north to south, forming three mountain massifs in the heart of the deep gorge country of the Hengduan mountains; from the north (1) Dungri Garpo massif (2) Damyon massif (3) Meili snow mountains.

Dungri Garpo massif is located on the Mekong-Yu Qu (tributary of Salween river) divide north of Damyon massif. The main peak of Dungri Garpo (6090 m) is in E-98°20' and N-29°17'. According to local villagers, 'Dungri' means conch horn in Tibetan. The Damyon and Dungri Garpo are a northern extension of the Nu Shan range and the Meili snow mountains are the southern extension.

On the north of the Dungri Garpo massif is an unnamed peak (6070 m), then you see the main peak of Dungri Garpo (6090 m), Jiamutongnan (5925 m), several 5700 - 5800 m rock peaks and Longgequji Puzhong (c. 6000 m) which is close to the main summit of Damyon^[1] (6324 m). To unveil the main peak of Dungri Garpo and the unnamed 6070 m peak was a principal target of our exploration.

2. Sichuan - exploring 6079 m peak called Ren Zhong Feng, south of Minya Konka

There are 250 unclimbed 6000 m peaks in Nyainqentanglha East and Kangri Garpo of East Tibet, but only a few 6000 m peaks remain virgin in Sichuan West Highland. These are as follows:-

(1) Yangmolong (6060 m) east of Batang - Japanese first attempted the south face in 1991 and then approached the north face in 2003, and a party of Dave Wynne-Jones attempted it in 2007.

(2) Xiannairi (6032 m) of Gongga Xueshan in Daocheng County - Japanese attempted it in 1989. Since then no party attempted it and now the Daocheng County local government does not give climbing permits due to environmental protection needs.

(3) Nyambo Konka (6114 m) in Minya Konka massif and a couple of satellite peaks in the massif - Situation being confirmed by the author from the Sichuan Mountaineering Association.

(4) Unnamed (6079 m) peak tentatively named as Ren Zhong Feng south of Minya Konka - Reconnaissance is an objective of Autumn 2008 expedition.

The above 6079 m peak also appears on the same map of 1:2,500,000, Map of Mountain Peaks on the Qinghai-Xizang (Tibet) Plateau. Ren Zhong Feng is one of a few unclimbed 6000 m peaks in Sichuan. However, no record of exploration and reconnaissance has been reported and no photos are available. This peak is located at E-101°25' and N-29°18'.

In addition, an unclimbed pyramid of Xiaqingla (5470 m) of Daxue Shan range northwest of Danba town in the Dadu river basin is another target in Sichuan.

Highlights of the expedition

1. Discovery of Dungri Garpo 6090 m - 1st stage

A problem arose in Yangjing (the Tibetan name is Yakalo) on the way from Deqen (now famous for the Meili snow mountains) to Markam, a junction of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and Yunnan-Tibet Highway. Yanjing is reputed for salt-wells with an 800 year history. These hot springs are currently being developed as a resort. However, the road north of Yanjing along the Mekong river is notorious because of dangerous landslides that often stop traffic. We were forced to stay for four days at the Yangjing hot springs due to dreadful falling rocks.

Availing ourselves of free time, we visited Yangjing Church. The region of Yangjing (Yakalo) is the only Christian village inside Tibet, where Father Tornay, a Swiss St. Barnard Missionary, was pastor before he was forcibly driven out and later ruthlessly shot to death by warrior lamas in 1949. They were on the way toward Lhasa crossing a high pass on the Mekong-Yu Qu Divide (Martyr in Tibet, The Heroic Life and Death of F. R. Maurice Tornay by Robert Loup, David McKay Company, Inc. NY, 1956). When I first came to Yangjing in 1993, the church was in an ordinary Tibetan house, but in 15 years it has moved in newly constructed large buildings. A couple of bells had been donated by Japan in 1974. At present there are 200 Tibetan followers and religious services and events regularly take place.

Our preliminary plan of exploration was first drawn on a Russian topographical map of 1:200,000 for approaching to Damyon and Dungri Garpo from the north. We kept in mind the two routes starting a caravan from Chudeng village south of Jo Ba la on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway.

Objectives

(1) To reconnoitre Dungri Garpo from two high passes of 5300 - 5400 m on the Mekong-Yu Qu divide tracing an old trade path from Chudeng to Zayi (Dayul) of Yu Qu basin. Early explorers such as a Pundit A-K crossed these high passes, and in winter of 1950, George Patterson also followed this route.

(2) To enter a tributary of the Mekong river from Chudeng to access the north face of Damyon and the east face of Dungri Garpo.

A chief of Chudeng village told us that there was no trail to Damyon from the village and that the high passes to Zayi has already been closed due to deep snow and so horses could not go. He advised us that the only possible approach would be to enter and march up the Hong Qu valley, a tributary of Yu Qu to its headwaters from south to north. Then we turned westwards driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway to enter the Yu Qu, a largest tributary of the Salween river, the mystery river of Tibet.

On 1 November we arrived at Bake village (3320 m) in Yu Qu basin, which was a base for exploration of Durngri Garpo from the western side. On the following day we made a day reconnaissance of the peaks west of Yu Qu. Weather was perfectly fine. We could have nice views of unclimbed 5700 - 5800 m peaks of Geuzong, Minyabaigen and Bumubaideng on the Yu Qu-Salween divide.

On 3 November a caravan with ten horses and five muleteers, was organised and started marching up the Hong Qu, a tributary of Yu Qu. The Hong Qu has a total river length of 50 kms, flowing north to south. The valley is deep, in an S-shape from Bake for seven kilometres, and then becomes wider with conifer trees along the valley but the view is rather narrow. Dungri Garpo was not seen till the final moment. There are summer pastures with temporary cottages for grazing at certain intervals. In two days we reached Camp 2 at 4250 m that was called Munantong. From Munantong a trail was hidden under snow, 50 cms to one metre deep, which forced horses to struggle for a track. We forded streams several times. The horses gasped and sometimes fell down. My colleague was injured, buried under his fallen horse. Our caravan leader was very helpful and cooperated with us so that we might have at least a glimpse of Dungri Garpo. He led the caravan vigorously in spite of deep snow.

On 5 November, after marching for six hours to the headwater from Munantong took us to a very cold and windy point at 4700 m near the snow-covered headwaters of the Hong Qu, From there, thanks to the caravan leader's support, we could first have a look of the west face of stunning Dungri Garpo and summit ridge with steep buttress and hanging glacier. This was the only chance to see Dungri Garpo from the west. However unnamed 6070 m peak north of Dungri Garpo did not appear in our sight.

On the return we entered another branch valley to the north, called Tsobong Qu. This is a wide and beautiful valley, and its headwaters that share watershed of the Mekong and Yu Qu are surrounded by towering rocky peaks of 5700 - 5900 m and a ca. 6000 m peak called Longgequji Puzhong close to Damyon main peak. This area can attract climbers. In particular, Jiamutongnan (5925 m) seems outstanding.





On the way back from Bake the north and east face of Dungri Garpo massif including unnamed 6070 m was photographed successfully in early morning from a high pass (4362 m) on the Sichuan- Tibet Highway between Markam and the Mekong river. Excellent pictures of Damyon massif were taken en route from Yanging to Markam and also from Jo Ba la west of the Mekong river.

After Dungri Garpo we continued a long loop driving from Gorge Country to Sichuan. We crossed a new bridge over the 'River of Golden Sand' (upper Yangzte) at Chubalong and drove from Batang to Shangri la of Yunnan enjoying wonderful view through Litang plateau and Daocheng/Xiangchen counties, which are the heart of west

Sichuan highland. Thanks to fine weather, we could take many pictures of peaks on the Shaluli Shan range such as Xiashe (5833 m), 5838 m peak in Litang plateau, Genyen (6204 m), and three famous holy peaks of Kongga Xueshan; Xiannairi (6032 m), Yangmaiyong (5958 m) and Xiarudoji (5958 m). We saw not only peaks but fascinating scenery of autumn leaves and Tibetan houses in the Xiangcheng county. The Kongga Xueshan had been closed to visitors in 2007 for conservation purposes, but when we entered Daocheng county, it was open to the visitors.

2. Peak 6079 m south of Minya Konka and peaks in Sichuan - 2nd stage

It has long been my subject to unveil 6079 m peak south of Minya Konka. The peak, tentatively named as Ren Zhong Feng is located south of Tianwan river flowing into the Dadu river, one of the major tributaries of the Yangtze river. It is named so as the peak is in the headwater of Gang Gou valley north of Ren Zhong lake. Access is very easy, but only few climbers have paid attention to this peak till today. One of them is John Harlin III, a chief editor of the American Alpine Journal and an author of The Eiger Obsession which has deeply touched me. For exploring this peak, one can reach the base at Caoke hot spring in a day's drive from Chengdu.

We departed from Chengdu on 19 November by a 4WD vehicle driven by Zhang Jiyue, my friend for 18 years, from Sichuan Earth Expeditions Inc. based in Chengdu. On the same day we arrived at Caoke hot spring 1400 m and got a good hotel along the 100 kilometre- long Tianwan rivers. This river flows west and then south of Minya Konka and joins the Dadu river between Ximien and Luding. The valley was full of mist and mountains were totally cloud-draped. We had to stay for four days in the hot spring waiting for good weather. On the fourth day, for a couple of hours in the morning, we got the only chance to take pictures.

On 21 November we went up to a point of 3240 m in Gang Gou (dry valley) north of 6079 m peak and south of Ren Zhong lake (2930 m) a tributary of the Tianwan river, but thick clouds veiled the peak. Even if it is fine, one is unable to see the whole view of the peak from Gang Gou because of location. On 23 November we hurriedly again went up the valley of the Tianwan river to Ren Zhong lake. The valley was so deep that there is no place to be able to see the peak except at one or two points. But we were lucky to avail ourselves of a narrow chance while going up to the lake. The photos thus taken would be of much value. I had earlier written that there was no photo of this 6079 m peak. But actually there is one photo of the northwest face of the massif taken from far away, a high pass west of Minya Konka by Pedro Detjen, publisher of my book Die Alpen Tibets. But the peak in question has remained unidentified until I confirmed it in the autumn of2008.











Apart from the mountain peaks, we were surprised that construction of dams and hydraulic power stations were progressing on a large scale and at terrific speed in the Dadu river basin, both in the main streams and tributaries. Naturally, destruction of environment was seen everywhere along the rivers and valleys. The China government [West Development Drive] policy accelerates construction and destruction as well. A slogan [ To send electricity of the West to the East] is being implemented and executed where hydraulic power stations are possible.





The Dadu river is known as the route of the 'Long March'. A newly refurbished museum was seen at a place where the Red Army crossed the river and marched toward their goal in 1935. The borderland is changing very fast. Towns and villages are a hive of development.

On 24 November we moved northward along the Dadu river for the next target to reconnoitre Xiaqingla (5470 m) of Daxue Shan range in Dang Ling village, 68 kms northwest of Danba. Danba is the 'Valley of Beauties', famous for beautiful females, and it maintains unique Gyalong culture and housing style. Historical stone towers (or defense towers) in the vicinity of Danba also draw the attention of visitors. The Danba county local government is said to have applied to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage to declare this area of stone towers a heritage site.

On 25 November, horse caravan for one day took us from Dang Ling village to Hulu Hai lake at 4170 m located east of Xiaqingla (5470 m) called 'Mountain of Beautiful Goddess', a sharp pyramid soaring to the sky. The peak and glacier lake undoubtedly allure not only climbers but tourists also. The local government is keen to expedite the tourism development of this region.

The final leg of the Stage 2 was the last two days. The weather turned perfectly fine again. In order to take pictures, Jiyue kindly took a long route from Danba to Chengdu via Ja-ra (5820 m) (Haizi Shan), Kangding, Laoyuling hot spring, Xuemenkan pass between Lamo-she (6070 m) Baihaizi Shan (5924 m) and Minya Konka massif. Owing to his arrangements, many stunning pictures have been added to my photo library. Among others, photos of the east face Mt. Edgar (E-Gongga) 6618 m are fantastic, as weather is always bad in this area of Minya Konka massif.

Members :

Tamotsu Nakamura (leader - 73 years), and Tadao Shintani (63). Tsuyoshi Nagai (76) joined for the first stage.

Summary :

Explorations in the Gorge Country in southeast Tibet and mountains in Sichuan in the autumn of 2008.

---

[1] 'Return to Gorge Country 2007' The Alpine Journal vol. 113