NEWSLETTER 62 (2008-2009)

THE HIMALAYAN CLUB COMMITTEE, 2009
(Founded on 17th February, 1928)
OFFICERS
President	Suman Dubey
Vice Presidents	Tanil Kilachand
	Col. Ashok Abbey
	Ravi Singh
Hon. Secretary	Vijay Crishna
Hon. Treasurer	Ajit Bam
Members of the Committee
Divyesh Muni	Motup Chewang
Harish Kapadia	Deepak Bhimani
M. S. Soin	Rishad Naoroji
Cdr. S. Dam	S.P.Mahadevia
Rajesh Gadgil	Dr. R. Godbole
Additional Members of Balloting Committee
Monesh Devjani	Maninder Singh Kohli
Manik Banerjee	Ravindra Apte
President Emeritus	J. C. Nanavati
Hon. Local Secretaries:
India
Almora	Himanshu Pandey
Bangalore	Deepak Arya
Darjeeling	Dorjee Lhatoo
Delhi	Maninder Kohli
Jammu & Kashmir	Sat Paul Sahni
Manali	Mahavir Thakur
Mumbai	Jasmine Hegde
Kolkata	Jhelum Chaudhury
Shimla	Deepak Sanan
Leh	Motup Chewang
Pune	Dr. Raghunath Godbole
Ranikhet	Krishnan Kutty
Nepal	Elizabeth Hawley
Pakistan	Nazir Sabir
Australia	Garry Weare
France	Claude Gardien
New Zealand	John Nankervis
Great Britain	Martin Scott
Japan	Yoshio Ogata
Spain	Jose Paytubi
South Africa	Dr. S. A Craven
Korea	Bae Seung Youl
Switzerland	Eric Bernhardt
Sweden	Ake Nilsson
U.S.A.	Donald Goodman
	Nicholas Clinch
	Paddy Iyer
Hon. Editor	Harish Kapadia
Hon. Asst. Editors	Nandini Purandare
	Rajesh Gadgil
Hon. Librarian	Group Capt. V.K. Sashindran
Hon. Asst. Librarians
Mumbai	Rajendra Wani
	Rajesh Gadgil
Kolkata	Chandra Shekhar Ghosh
Hon. Equipment Officer Rajendra Wani
Hon. Asst. Equipment Officers
Kolkata	Debraj Dutta
Web Master	Rajan Rikame
E Letter Editors	Jasmine Hegde
	Maninder Kohli
	Rama Goel
E Group Moderator	Cdr. K. B. Singh
	Divyesh Muni
Hon. Archivist	Dr Ravi Mariwala
Patrons of The Himalayan Club
Chief of Army Staff
Ambani, Anil
Godrej, Adi
Mallya, Vijay
Trivedi, Kunj
Bajaj, Niraj
Mahendra, Anand
Honorary Members of the Himalayan Club
Aitken, Bill	McNaught-Davis, Ian
Ali, Aamir	Matsuda, Yuichi,
Band, G.C.	Moddie, A.D.
Bernhardt, Eric	Nakamura, Tamotsu
Bonington, Sir Christian, C.B.E.	Nangle, Col. F.E.
Braham, T. H.	Nyka, J.
Diemberger, Kurt	Ogata, Yoshio
Gill, Dr. M. S.	Otsuka, Hiroyoshi
Gombu, Nawang	Pettigrew, Robert
Guha, K. K.	Ramchandani, Gulab
Herzog, Maurice	Scott, Doug
Houston, Dr. C.S.	Singh, Gurdial
Inada, Sadashige	Streather, Lt. Col. H.R.A., O.B.E.
Kohli, Capt., M.S.	Venables, Stephen
Lawford, R.	Westmacott, M.H.
Lhatoo, Dorjee

Major Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya in 2008

Harish Kapadia

New ascents, high peaks, exploration of new areas and most importantly, challenging climbs by Indian mountaineers - all were part of the 2008 season in the Indian Himalaya. This year will be remembered for some energetic climbs and a rather settled weather.

Totally 65 foreign expeditions climbed in India. Since IMF has opened a liaison office at Leh to collect fees locally, Stok Kangri has become their most profitable peak- with 21 official ascents. Counting this with Indian teams and unofficial team climbing, this peak will be in record books for the most climbed peak above 6000 m! Three French guides climbed Rangrik Rang, a high peak in Kinnaur. They wanted to repeat the Indo-British route of 1994 on this peak. But when they found plenty of fresh snow that made the route difficult they traversed over the summit of nearby Mangala peak, reached the summit of Rangrik Rang late in the evening. Spending 10 hour night on the summit they reversed their route. This is what you can do if you are 22 years old as they all were, have trained in the Alps and have drunk French wine! The original route, now with settled snow, was their next aim. But bureaucracy intervened and LO refused for two routes to be climbed at same rates!

Kishtwar area, once a paradise for challenging mountains was closed due to terrorism in Kashmir. The routes from the valley were too dangerous to approach from. A British-Canadian-American team tried to approach Kishtwar-Shivling from north, crossing Umasi la. But a small incident en route scared porters and they refused to descend into the valley. According to their observation terrorists were watching them and they do not like any nationalities! So Kishtwar will have to wait till things improve.

Another show of energy was on Chong Kumdan II. This virgin 7000 m peaks had beaten two expeditions previously, both from the east. The Indian-French team approached from south over high pass and finally reached the long summit ridge. After a camp on the high ridge they traversed to summit and back making it a long day. Perhaps this was , both, the longest approach and longest climb in recent years.

There were worthy climbs in Garhwal too. Conrad Anker and friends climbed Meru Shark's Fin despite bad weather, Mick Fowler challenged Vasuki Parvat by a daring route and the Japanese climbed Kalanka by north face. But the iconic climb was on the high and well know peak of Kamet by a two-member Japanese team. They acclimatised on the 'normal' route and established supplies for return. Then in one push they climbed the steep southeast face to the summit and returned by the normal route. With most of climbing above 7000 m this expedition too can enter the fitness race with others as above.

With a total of 57 expeditions during the year, the Indian teams were not too far in terms of excellence in climbs. Thalay Sagar, up to now preserve of strong foreign teams, received Indian climbers for the first time. A small team from Bengal reached the summit. Similarly Tirsuli West was climbed for the second time by an Indian expedition. This high peak in earlier years had defeated several strong teams. Maiktoli south face, Srikanta and Manirang were other high peaks climbed by the Indian teams. This is a very welcome sign and it is hoped that new breed of young mountaineers in future will explore climbing without fixed ropes and support by Sherpas, as it was done this year.

Along with climbers there were teams which either climbed in new areas and opened new valleys for the future. The Irish teams explored Gramang Bal in Kinnaur and climbed in the Debsa valley of Spiti. Two Indian teams took on challenges of Nya Kangri and Plateau Peak. Both are challenging peaks in the Eastern Karakoram region and will take some strong teams to challenge it in future.

On the historic trail was a British team, exploring to reach the Zemu Gap and planning for it first crossing. Their route from high Guicha la to the Talung valley was not without difficulties. But ahead lay the icefall and the approaching bad weather stopped their movements. However this needs to be done and hopefully some team will return here to reach the Zemu Gap, a first after H. W. Tilman.

This list covers important expeditions to the Indian Himalaya in 2008

UTTARAKHAND

KUMAUN HIMALAYA

Changabang (6866 m)

Team: Czech Republic. Leader: Michal Bernard

From 7th to 17th September 2008, six members of the Czech team attempted the west face of the peak. They reached up to 6100 m but had to give up because heavy snowfall made further climbing hazardous.

Kalanka (6931 m)

Team: Japanese. Leader: Fumitaka Ichimura

The team consisting of the leader (30 years), Yusuke Sato (27 years) and Kazuki Amano (31 years) completed a new route on Kalanka's north face. After enduring a short spell of bad weather, they started from base camp on 14th September. They had to stay three nights at 6600 m on the face due another spell of bad weather. They finally reached the summit on 22nd September and returned to base camp on 24th September.

They had the permission to climb Changabang (6866 m) also, but abandoned it, as they were exhausted after climbing the Kalanka north face.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Tirsuli West (7035 m)

Team: Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Leader: Gautam Dutta

The team of 12 climbers with some high altitude supporters followed the same route of the first ascent. by team from Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in 2001. They fixed the entire route from base camp till near the summit. They established four camps and the highest camp (Camp 4) was at 6630 m. On 12th June 2008, Amresh Kumar Jha, Debraj Dutta, Goutam Saha, K Wallambok Lyngdoh, Mohan Lal, Subrata Chakraborty and three high altitude supporters Phurba, Tashi and Dorjee Sherpa reached the summit. It was second ascent of the mountain, which has been attempted several times earlier.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Maiktoli (6803 m)

Organisers: Indian Mountaineering Foundation.

Leader: Col Vijay Singh, VSM

As Maiktoli lies on the southern rim of the Nanda Devi sanctuary and it can be attempted only from outside the sanctuary walls, i.e., the south face. A Japanese team first climbed this route in 1977. On the same route in 1992 four climbers from an Indian expedition from Almora, Uttarakhand died by a fall from the ridge. The Almora team again attempted the route in 1995 without success.

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation team of nine climbers followed the same route. They totally fixed 880 m of rope but the route they found to be very steep. In bad weather reached 6200 m on 10th September. Knowing the history of the deaths on the south face, the leader very wisely called off the expedition.

GARHWAL HIMALAYA

GANGOTRI AREA

Thalay Sagar (6904 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Basanta Singha Roy

This was a team of 9 members with four Sherpas from Daijeeling that attempted this high and challenging peak. Proceeding from Gangotri to Base camp at Kedar tal was established. From here they followed the west ridge and they established Camp 3 (summit camp) at 6400 m with fixing ropes en route. The summit camp was the junction of snowy west ridge which connects Jogin group of peaks and vertical rock wall of Thalay Sagar. On 29th August they fixed ropes for 550 m ahead towards the summit, almost within 100 m of the summit. After sitting out snowfall on the 31st they started for the summit at 4 am on 1st September. They followed the fixed ropes and climbed the final 100 m of steep gradient snow slopes to reach the summit at about 8 am.

This was the first ascent of Thalay Sagar by an Indian team. Summiteers were Basanta Singha Roy and Sherpas Pasang, Pemba and Phurba Gyalgen.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Meru (6660 m)

Team: Korean. Leader: Se Joon Kim

The Korean team of three climbers climbed a new direct route on the north face of Meru in the month of July 2008. On 13th July, the leader with Wang Jun Ho and Kim Tae Mam reached the summit at 6.40 p.m.

Meru Central (6550 m)

Team: American. Leader: Conrad Anker

The peak is also known as Shark's Fin due to its peculiar shape. The American team of three climbers reached just 100 m below the summit on 3rd October and had to turn back because of further difficulties and exertion. They sat out heavy snowfall from 18th to 24th September.

Shivling (6184 m)

(1) Team: Swiss. Leader: Nellen Michael

All the three climbers of this Swiss team successfully reached the summit by the traditional west ridge. On 28th May 2008 the leader with Simon Schydrig and Wellig Diego climbed to the top at 5.00 p.m.

(2) Team: Korean. Leader: Boun Hyun Park

The five members Korean team climbed the traditional west ridge. The leader with Young Jik Yoo and Seon Tae Jang reached to the summit on 31st May, just three days after the Swiss expedition. The Koreans also attempted Meru but could reach up to 5900 m. Because of heavy snow they could not climb further on Meru.

(3) Team: Iceland. Leader: Arnar Emilsson

The Iceland expedition of five climbers attempted the west ridge but was unlucky with the weather. They reached up to Camp 3 (6000 m) after fixing ropes all the way from Camp 2. There was heavy snowfall and they could not climb the overhanging route ahead. There were avalanches on both sides of the route so they backed out. Returning in bad weather conditions, they insisted on clearing all the ropes fixed by them.

Sudarshan Parvat (6507 m)

Team: Japanese. Leader: Toshio Yamagiwa

The Japanese team followed the east ridge route, which was pioneered by the Indian French expedition in 1981. They established two camps on the way and the top camp was at 5800 m. S. Kazama, N. Suzuki and K. Hirano with guides Laxman and Wallambok reached the summit on 19th August 2008.

Vasuki Parvat (6792 m)

Team: British. Leader: Mick Fowler

Two alpinist, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, attempted the west face of the 'King of Serpents' (Vasuki). It was a new route but they could reach up to 6400 m only. Mick describes his experience as follows: 'We tried the buttress line catching the sun and reached a point about two-thirds of the way up just at the foot of the snowy section catching the sun. I think we might have completed the technically hardest climbing but earlier spell of bad weather meant that we did not acclimatise as well as I would have liked and we just ground to a knackered halt going slower and slower (and feeling we were getting more and more wobbly) at about 6400 m. It was also surprisingly cold to the extent that we could not use bare hands on rock.'

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Srikanta (6133 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Anand Mali

The expedition approached the mountain from Jangla village near Uttarkashi on the Gangotri road. They established two camps on the mountain at 5200 m and 5600 m. On 12th September 2008, five climbers reached the summit of this sparsely visited mountain. The last successful attempt was in 1997. Anand Mali with Tekraj Adhikari and Krishna Dhokle and two high altitude supporters Gyalbu and Pasang reached the top after 16 days of efforts. Kalyan Kadam, the fourth member reached up to summit camp. They fixed about 1100 m of rope between their top camp and the summit.

CENTRAL GARHWAL

Kamet (7756 m)

(1) Team: Japanese. Leader: Hazuya Hiraide

The two-member Japanese team of Hazuya Hiraide and Ms Kei Taniguchi climbed the formidable southeast face of Kamet in the autumn of 2008. They set up their base camp on 1st September. They acclimatized by climbing till Mead's Col on the normal route. There was heavy snowfall between 18 to 24 September. Climbing a direct line on the southeast face from 29th September, they reached the summit at 10:00 a.m. on 5th October and they descended to Camp 3 (6600 m) on the normal route. On 6th October, they were down to Camp 2 (5500 m) and reached base camp on 7th October. This was the first ascent of the southeast face (commonly called east face) and they are the first Japanese summiteers of Kamet. Just before this expedition, Hiraide had summited Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak in Karakoram.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

(2) Team: Japanese. Leader: Isao Hidehiko

Just before the above mentioned spectacular ascent, another Japanese team of seven climbers attempted Kamet in the pre-monsoon season. They took the normal route. On 12th June, they could reach Camp 4 at 6050 m, which was their high point. They had a curious case when soles of seven new shoes they were using came off !! They were trying these new shoes for a possible attempt of Everest later. We do not know the brand of the shoe manufacturer !!

Nilkanth (6596 m) - Correction regarding 2007 ascent

The Himalayan Club had sponsored an expedition to Nilkanth in Garhwal in2007, organised by its Kolkata Section. The expedition leader AVM (Retd) A K Bhattacharyya reported that the team had reached the summit of Nilkanth after a difficult climb. As doubts were expressed regarding the authentication of this climb the Himalayan Club appointed Mr Jagdish Nanavati, (President Emeritus) as Ombudsman. On examination of details and photographs the Himalayan Club Managing Committee accepted the report of the Ombudsman and concluded that the summit of Nilkanth was not climbed by this expedition.

Hence record of ascent of this peak should be corrected.

The Ombudsman's Report is available on the website of the Himalayan Club at www.himalayanclub.org
(Article HJ Vol. 65)

HIMACHAL PRADESH

KINNAUR

Rangrik Rang (6553 m)

Team: French. Leader: Ferron Odilon

Three young mountaineers (all 22 years) from France completed the second ascent of this beautiful mountain in Kinnaur. They followed a long route over Mangla peak to the col with the main peak and followed it to the summit. The leader with Rumebe Jeremy and Audibert Slvoin reached the summit. The climb was completed in only two days reaching the top on 1st October in the late evening (7.30 pm). They bivouacked on the summit for 10 hours, and returned to their top camp on 2nd October late in the evening.

The original route, followed by the 1994 Indian British expedition led by Sir Chris Bonington and Harish Kapadia, climbed directly from the glacier to the co, This was the intended route of the French alpinists. But because of heavy snowfall, they found this route dangerous and hence followed the alternate longer route to the summit. All three French climbers are mountain guides by profession.

Gramang Bal (6248 m)

Team: Irish. Leader: Seamus O'Hanlon

Gramang Bal is located towards northwest of peak Sesar Rang and east of Morang village in the Kinnaur Himalaya. This Irish expedition of five members approached the peak from Morang and followed Paltha - Khokpa nala to Timchhe glacier. They experienced good weather and explored the valley thoroughly but did not climb the peak because water supplies at their base camp dried up. They had received information about the area from veteran Irish mountaineer Paddy O'Leary who had been to this area in 1993. Unfortunately this information was no longer valid due to terrain changes and approach to the mountain had now become dangerous. They surveyed northwest aspects of the mountain and thought that the west ridge would be possible for future attempt. They reached a high point at 4800 m during the expedition.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Manirang (6593 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Dr. Anjan Choudhury

This high peak is situated on the border of Kinnaur and Spiti areas of Himachal Pradesh. A 10 member team climbed it after establishing three high camps. They climbed via Manirang pass and placed the summit camp at 5734 m. Shushanto Mondal, Tapan Mukherjee with two high altitude supporters reached the summit on 12th September 2008.

SPITI

Kanamo (5975 m)

Team: British Royal Navy. Leader: Andrew Wagstaff

The name of this peak implies 'White Hostess' and this easy peak welcomed a large team of the Royal Navy. The peak is situated near Shilla and Chau Chau Kang Nilda peaks and now easily approached by road from Kaja.

On 6th September 2008, all members except one from this dozen strong Royal Navy team reached the summit of Kanamo. They climbed southwest ridge of this small but attractive mountain in the Spiti Himalaya. They had warm, sunny weather except on the summit day!

Lhakhang (6250 m)

Team: British. Leader: Michael John Borroff

Six senior citizens (60+) from the Yorkshire Ramblers Club accompanied the leader to attempt this mountain in Spiti during the post-monsoon season of 2008. They established their advanced base camp on the lateral moraines on the west of the Dhhun glacier, which allowed detailed reconnaissance of northwest face of Lhakhang. But un-seasonal and wide spread snowfall on Lhakhang and all peaks in the northern Spiti caused them to abandon the climb. They reached 5660 m while exploring the glacier.

Khhang Shiling (6360 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Anath Bandhu Ghosh

In 2004, a team led by Mumbai climber Divyesh Muni, first climbed Khhang Shiling in the Khamengar valley of Spiti. The present team of six members followed the same route of the first ascent. They established their summit camp at 5950 m. On 1st August 2008 Raj Kumar Dhara with two high altitude supporters reached the summit.

P. 6135 m (Debsa nala)

Team: Irish. Leader: Gerard Galligan

A three member Irish team entered the Debsa nala in the western Spiti establishing base camp at Thwak Debsa. After exploring the surroundings. They climbed an Unnamed Peak of 6135 m, on Upper East Debsa glacier. They suggested the name Ramabang (peak of Rama) for this peak. On 22nd June 2008 the leader with Darach O'Murchu and Paul Mitcell, climbed the southwest ridge to reach the summit. This is the first ascent of the peak. Later the expedition crossed a high pass at head of Bauli Khad (Debsa valley) to the Parvati valley.

KULLU - LAHAUL-ZANSKAR

Menthosa (6443 m)

Team: Italian. Leader: Bruno Moretti

The Italian team of 10 climbers was not successful on Menthosa. But they climbed four other peaks in the area. The summits of P. 6046 m, P. 5770 m, P. 5760 m and P. 5577 m were reached in the month of September 2008.

Dharamsura (White Sail) (6446 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Barun Mazumdar

Dharamsura (Peak of good), located near Manikaran in the Kullu valley of Himachal Pradesh, is also known as White Sail due to its shape. The four member team followed the normal route and established four camps. Their summit camp was placed at 6400 m, from where on 26th July 2008 Arindam Jana and Sujit Bag with high altitude supporters Pasang Phutar and Phurba Sherpa reached the summit.

Papsura(6451m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Prosenjit Mukherjee

This expedition consisting of seven members reached 200 m short of summit on Papsura (peak of evil), a higher neighbour of Dharamsura. On 11th June 2008 they stopped their climb due to verglass on rock. They were also short of necessary rock anchors and fixed ropes thus decided to give up.

Sanakdank Jot (6044 m) (as per survey of India 6360 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Dr. Ujjal Ray

The seven member team reached Tandi situated on the confluence of Chandra and Bhaga rivers and entered Shipting nala. They approached this peak in Lahaul area from the Shipting glacier. On 30th August 2008, Rajib Bhattacharjee, Surajit Bhowmik and Bibhas Ganguly with high altitude supporters Madanlal Thakur and Neelu Negi started at 3.30 am from camp 2 at 5050 m and reached the summit.

Shinkun East (6081 m)

Team: Himalayan Club. Leader: Subrata Chakraborty

A team of seven member climbed in the area of Zanskar, near the popular trekking route across Shinkun la (formerly Shingo la). The base camp was at Chuminakpo at 4650 m. One more camp was set up at 5190 m. They reached top of an unnamed point 5912 m on 9 September and established their summit camp on this point.

On 10th September starting from the summit camp they carefully negotiated a cornice and two rock-bands (about 70 m each). Then they traversed another rock-band and reached the ice slope. The final stretch was of an easy gradient leading to the summit. The summiteers were leader with Debraj Dutta, Jayanta Chattopadhay, Goutam Saha, Rudra Prasad Halder and HAP Harsh Thakur.

P. 6184 m (Jankar nala)

Team: British. Leader: Stuard Alexander MacDonald

The peak is located north of Gangstang. The nine member team approached the mountain from Jankar nala turning southwest from Kuddu for the base camp. Massive snowfall on 19th and 20th September made progress difficult. One of the members, Jamie Emberson, suffered multiple fractures in upper arm and shoulders and was evacuated by helicopter on 26th September. The team reached the high point at 5900 m on 29th September 2008 before calling the attempt off.

CB - 13A (6240 m)

Team: Polish. Leader: Pawel Krawczyk

The peak is situated in the Chandra Bhaga range of Lahaul area and is often visited by the climbers. The Polish team consisting of three members was unsuccessful in reaching the summit. On 13th August 2008, one climber, Mariusz Baskurzynski reached the junction of north and east ridges at 6000 m, which was the high point of the expedition. The northeast ridge was complicated due to loose rocks and they decided to turn back.

Shib Shankar (6011 m)

Team: Japanese. Leader: Shoji Sakamoto

The Japanese team of five members successfully climbed this mountain in the Pangi valley. The peak is located at the head of the Dharwas in the Lujai nala. The peak stands near Sersank pass on the Pangi-Zanskar divide. It was attempted by a British expedition in 2006. The mountain is surrounded by many hidden crevasses. On 19 July 2008, Kazuo Kozu, Hidetaka Lizuka and Miss Reiko Maruyama with three high altitude supporters reached the summit.

LADAKH AND EASTERN KARAKORAM

Rimo I (7385 m) Correction regarding 2007 ascent

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation organised an expedition to high peak of Rimo I in the east Karakoram in 2007. The team leader Major K. S. Dhami reported that the team, including himself, reached the summit in poor weather. They had followed the same route as of first ascent by the Indo-Japanese expedition in 1988. However on examination of details and photographs the IMF Authentication Committee concluded that the summit of Rimo I was not climbed by them.

Hence record of ascent of this peak should be corrected.

Kishtwar Shivling (6000 m)

Team: American- British- Canadian. Leader: Kevin James Alfred Thaw

This international expedition of thee climbers could not even reach the base of the mountain as their porters refused to carry loads over Umasi la and they had to turn back. Despite desire by climbers to visit this area it still remains a difficult destination, and sometimes dangerous place to visit.

Pologongka (6632 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Karuna Prasad Mitra

The team reached Pologongka pass and followed the south ridge. It was the same route as followed by the 1998 British expedition. The three member Indian team achieved the first ascent of the mountain. On 27th August 2008, Dipankar Ghosh and Bhagwan singh Thakur reached the top.

Chalung (6546 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: J S Gulia

The team approached this mountain in the Rupshu valley from Sumdo Ribil. After establishing base camp at 5200 m and a high camp at 5900 m they decided to tackle the west ridge to reach the top. On 29th June 2008, the leader with Gaurav and Amardeep along with two high altitude supporters Fateh Chand and Pyare Lal reached the summit at 1.00 p.m. This was overall second ascent of the peak and first by the west ridge. A Japanese team achieved the first ascent of this mountain in 1997.

Nya Kangri (6480 m)

Team: The Himalayan Club. Leader: Divyesh Muni

Nya Kangri is a beautiful pyramid shaped peak of the Arganglas valley in the Eastern Karakoram range. It dominates the entrance to the valley. A four-member team attempted the peak in June-July 2008. The team established base camp at Phonglas on the right of the Argan nala at 4600 m. The attempt was made from the southwestern side. A higher camp was established on the south slope at 5400 m. The approach to the south ridge was from a 700 m gully flanked by a rocky ridge on one side and a huge hanging glacier on another side. On 26

June, the team opened a route through the gully and fixed four rope lengths till height of 5800 m. Next two days it snowed heavily and the entire region was plastered with snow. Since the snow remained loose and unconsolidated, the slope became prone to slab avalanche and the attempt was called off.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Saser Kangri IV (7410 m)

Team: Indian. Leader: Samir Sengupta

From Panamik this 26 members team approached the Phukpoche glacier to their base camp. Ahead they placed two camps on the west ridge of the peak. They reached up to 7000 m on Saser IV on 5th August. Terrain difficulties defeated further movements. The team has left heavy amount of equipment at their Camp 2.

Chong Kumdan II (7004 m)

Team: Indian- French.

Leader: Chewang Motup Goba and Paulo Grobel

The joint team comprising of 12 members approached the mountain by a more direct route. First they entered the Mamostong valley and crossed the northwest ridge of the Mamostong Kangri across a high col to reach the South Terong glacier. From the glacier they climbed to Nup Col overlooking the Chong Kumdan glacier. They gained the south ridge of Chong Kumdan II and reached the summit. They accomplished the first ascent of one of the last unclimbed seven thousand meter peak in the Eastern Karakoram. On 20th August, the main peak was climbed by Konchok Thinless, Samgyal Sherpa, Maurine Bernard, Raiot Dominique, Paul Grobel and Sebastiano Audisio.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Plateau Peak (7287 m)

Team: Indian Mountaineering Foundation.

Leader: Wing Commander N. K. Dahiya

IMF organised an expedition of 11 members to this virgin seven thousander in the Eastern Karakoram. The team approached the mountain from Panamik in the Nubra valley in northern Ladakh.

Base camp was set up on the Phukpoche glacier at 3950 m where they reached on 26th July 2008. The members had to ferry loads between road head and advanced base camp (4875 m), as very few porters were available.

From ABC they climbed the southwestern slopes to reach the west ridge and established Camp 1 at 5650 m. They continued on the west ridge fixing ropes on the way. Camp 2 was to be established at 6400 m from where they had planned to attempt the summit. They fixed 1100 m of fixed rope which was not sufficient, so 7 climbing ropes were also fixed. Bad weather and unconsolidated snow defeated the attempt. They reached 6900 m on 3rd August 2008 before turning back.

Zemu Gap (5891 m)

The expedition was organised by Colin Knowles.It's objective was to link together two treks - the 'Goecha La' trek which leaves from Yuksom and terminates at the Goecha La, and the 'Green Lake' trek, which follows the Zemu Chu from Lachen to the eponymous Green Lake, and back. To make the connection it would be necessary to cross the Talung Glacier, gain the Tongshiong Glacier and cross the Zemu Gap (Zemu La) - a breche on the South-East ridge of Kanchenjunga, before descending down to the Zemu Glacier and thus to the Green Lake.

The Zemu Gap (5891m) has a remarkable place in mountaineering history. The northern approach, via the Zemu Glacier, is relatively straightforward, and documented visits include Dr. A. M. Kellas (May 12th, 1910), John Hunt (November 18th 1937) and H. W. Tilman (July 9th 1938). Tilman then crossed the gap, experiencing some interesting adventures on his descent from the Talung Glacier.

The Gap only really sprung to prominence when H. W. Tilman became suspicious about a claimed ascent from the southern (Talung) side by Captain Boustead on May 8th 1926. Tilman went to investigate and failed to climb it from the southern side on May 13th 1936. His suspicions seemed justified as Captain Boustead's account did not fit with his experience. However, unbeknown to both there was a prior claim to the first ascent from the south by Mr N. A. Tombazi, in 1925. He had mounted a photographic expedition to the area. Regrettably he had not taken any photographs as the weather had been unfavourable.

However none of these protagonists had gone on down to the Zemu Gap, so the first true South to North crossing of the La was still awaiting. Since that time the only other documented visit to the La from the south was by a group from A. J. S. Grewal' Talung Expedition in 1975. They, like Tilman, warned of the difficulties to be faced -they were prevented from crossing the Gap 'by two big open crevasses approx. 40 ft in width' just 200ft short of the col. '...it is clear that the Gap can be reached if one goes prepared to bridge the two crevasses.'

The expedition members were Adrian O'Connor from Leicester, and Colin Knowles and Jerzy Wieczorek from Bristol, all of whom are members of the Red Rope Club.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

The Burma Hump

During World war II, flights that took off from Assam for Kunming in China had to cross the high ridge in the eastern Arunachal Pradesh, nicknamed as the 'Burma Hump'. These non-pressurised old planes had to fly at night and in a circuitous route to avoid attention by Japanese. More than 1000 planes crashed on these high mountain areas. Not many crash sites are located as yet. An American team with support of Indian Air Force was permitted in this border area of the Siang valley. After many difficulties they located one of the crash sites at high altitude. These eastern areas are likely to see more such expeditions in the future.

(Article HJ Vol. 65)

Other News

During 2008 two prime organisations in Indian celebrated their anniversaries. The Himalayan Club completed 80 years and celebrations included lectures, outings to Himalaya and Western Ghats and screening of a film made especially for the occasion. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation too celebrated Golden Jubilee by a meeting with the Prime Minister of India and releasing a special audio-visual show.

H.C.S. Rawat, a descendent from the family of Pundit explorers of Milam, passed away this year. He had climbed Everest and had served in various administrative capacities at the IMF.

The Canadian author Bernadette Macdonald made a winning habit as she won the Himalayan Club Kekoo Naoroji Book Award for the second successive year. She had won it for Brotherhood of Rope (2007) and now for Tomaz Humar (2008).

The environment issues are also being discussed in India. Many glaciers are receding and impact of tourism on mountain areas is a concern. But major effect on the range is by building of roads in the deep Himalayan valleys. India perhaps has the highest and longest network of roads anywhere in the mountain areas. But such development generally comes in conflict with environmental conservation. A peculiar situation is developing in Himachal Pradesh where roads have been a requirement for the defence forces and for improving the lives of local communities. A classic case is a road from Spiti to Kinnaur.

The normal road from Chandigarh- Shimla-Kinnaur to Kaja (Spiti) takes a long turn to the east and then enters Spiti, covering more than 450 km With better technology, a shorter road has been built in Spiti till the border of Kinnaur, where it has to descend through the Bhaba valley to join the old highway. The Bhaba valley is thickly wooded, beautiful and is a part of the Pin-Bhaba National park. The road to and from Spiti has to travel about 30 km in this valley to link up with the Pin valley and Spiti. As much of the road will cut through the wooded area, permission to build it has not been forthcoming. People of Spiti and Kinnaur want this road desperately. With fuel prices rising, they point out, it makes economic sense to build the road, which will reduce the distance to Kaja by almost 115 km. The local produce can reach Chandigarh markets in a day which will be beneficial for the local economy. The villagers voted out a legislator who was against building the road (for other political reasons - not to protect the enviromnent!) and new representative has promised to fulfil the wishes of the people. It is a classic conflict; men vs environment, with issues of politics, democracy and protection of nature intertwined.


THE HIMALAYAN CLUB MEET AT LEH, LADAKH

The Himalayan Club, with a view to promote an interest and involvement in environmental issues, organised a meet at Leh in August 2009. It was organised by our Local Secretary Motup Chewang and sponsored by Rimo Expeditions, Leh. The event included a series of lectures on topics such as conservation of the environment, ecology, high-altitude acclimatisation, mountain cultures, and the Siachen glacier. Eminent mountaineers, scientists, environmentalists, ecologists and experts on the subjects participated in the seminar to suggest strategies to save the heritage of the Himalaya and address issues related to of global warming.



The Hon. Chief Minister of Jammu and Kashmir, Mr. Omar Abdullah, inaugurated the seminar and released three publications on the subject of acclimatisation and precautions to be taken at high altitudes. These included 'Healthy in the High Himalaya' (for trekkers and climbers), 'Stay Healthy at High Altitude' (for tourists) and a CD, 'Handbook of High Altitude Medicine ' that will be distributed widely.





Addressing the function, Omar Abdullah said, 'We have to look for ways to safeguard the green wealth of the State by all means. Our water bodies, glaciers, forests, fauna and flora are under constant threat by our own uncalled- for interference with nature. If this trend is not reversed the life process on our blue planet will come to a standstill'. He praised the Himalayan Club for organising this seminar and underscored the need of such seminars and workshops regularly across the State. He saw the film 'Himalayan Club at 80'.

The Minister for Tourism, Nawang Rigzin Jora, the Chairman, LAHDC, Leh, Chering Dorje, the MOS, Tourism, Aslam Wani, Political Advisor to Chief Minister, Devender Singh Rana, the Executive Councilors of LAHDC, former Union Minister, P. Namgyal, MLA, Nubra, Tsetan Namgyal and DC, Leh were present on the occasion.

Day One : 28th August 2009 Medicine

1. Dr. Tsering Norbu - he is a well known physician from Leh and an authority on medical issues in Ladakh. He spoke about new diseases cropping up in Ladakh and how to prevent them. He also discussed medical researches being carried out in Ladakh.

2. Dr. Raghunath Godbole - he is a surgeon from Pune, who has a special interest in High Altitude Medicine. He has trekked in different areas of the Himalaya and is Hon. Local Secretary of the Pune Section of the Himalayan Club. His talk covered various issues related to acclimatisation including special steps needed for acclimatisation by tourists, how to prevent high altitude sickness (HAS), and guidelines to travel and trekking agents to help their clients with these issues.

3. Dr. Thomas Hornbein - he is a medical doctor and a well known climber. The 'Hornbein Colouir' on Everest is named after him as he pioneered a route while climbing Everest with the American team in 1963.

With pictures of his historic climb on Everest he spoke about medical problems at high altitudes like Everest and recent research in the field.

Day two : 29th August 2009 Conservation and Environment

1. Jigmet Thakpa, Chief Wildlife Warden at Ladakh, showed stunning pictures of fauna in the state and problems faced by its wildlife.

2. Kate Harris,is a young scientist, explorer, and writer from Canada and is currently a PhD student in the department of Earth, Atmospheric and Planetary sciences at MIT. A Rhodes Scholar, Kate wrote her master's dissertation at Oxford on the history of science, exploration, and geopolitics in the Siachen glacier, and she is passionate about the potential of science as a force for peace in the Greater Himalaya. In her lecture she made a strong plea for scientific study of areas, specially the Siachen glacier.

3. Major General (retd) Randhir Sinh has extensively served in the area and was the Brigade Commander in the Nubra valley. He talked about the army's work in Ladakh and Siachen, with special focus on the army's role in helping the people of Ladakh, steps taken to protect the environment and the role of the army in protecting the borders of Ladakh.

4. Bernadette McDonald, author and climber from Canada was the Director of the Banff Centre for Mountain Culture for almost two decades. She has won many book awards for her publications and she climbs regularly. She spoke, with the aid of films, on the topic "Mountain Communities Learning from Each Other". With her special interest in mountain culture and its people, she compared mountain communities in the world with Ladakh, thus discussing similarities, problems and their solutions.



Day Three : 30th August 2009 Siachen and East Karakoram

1. John Porter is a leading climber from UK and has climbed Chong Kumdan peak in the East Karakoram. He has pioneered climbs on the South Buttress of Changabang, alpine style, among several other challenging climbs. Currently he runs a Mountain Film Festival company. He talked about his climbs accompanied by historic pictures, with a special focus on the mountains of East Karakoram.

2. Harish Kapadia is a well-known explorer and author. He has trekked and climbed in Ladakh since 1980 and visited the Siachen Glacier a couple of times. He is the Hon. Editor of the Himalayan Journal and has received many awards, including the Patron's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society. With the help of stunning visuals, he narrated the history of the Siachen glacier, talked about famous explorers and the start of the India-Pak conflict and the proposal for the Siachen Peace Park.

The seminars were attended by about 150 persons each day; many seniors and young Ladakhis were amongst the audience.

Dr M.S. Gill, Past President of the Himalayan Club was appointed as the Minister for Sports in Government of India, with Cabinet rank. He visited New Zealand and honoured Mrs Hillary, wife of late Sir Edmund Hillary. While visiting Switzerland he had discussions with President of the Swiss Alpine Club, officers of UIAA and senior members of the Himalayan Club. A plan of exchange climbers between two countries and train Indian mountaineering Instructors in Swiss Institutes were dicussed and will be implemented next year.



The Fourth Kekoo Naoroji Book Award.

The Award was won by Bernadette McDonald for second consecutive year. She had won the third K N Award in 2008 for her book Brotherhood of the of Rope. She was presented the Award at Mumbai.

CITATION FOR WINNING ENTRY

McDonald, Bernadette: TOMAZ HUMAR (Hutchinson, London)

This is a truly remarkable account of an extraordinary climber brilliantly portrayed by Bernadette McDonald. Despite the author's admiration for her controversial subject, she presents the facts, the emotions, the analysis, all with impeccable clarity and objectivity.

The book draws the reader into the world and mind of this charismatic individual where everything seems to hang together. Tomaz lives and breathes climbing, especially in the Himalaya where passion and inner strength unite in an exultant harmony with the life force he forever chooses to sorely tempt. Here we have a rare mountainteer unique in understanding that climbing can be a means to explore an inner dimension beyond sporting achievement, enabling him to experience the sovereignty of the human spirit. Tomaz may well prove to be the sport's first true mystic who discovered that climbing has the miraculous potential to yield the ultimate peak of selfhood.

The stubborn courage Tomaz displays in defending his right to be true to himself is sensitively handled and much of his career is about weathering the storms created by reactions to his individualism as about big wall contests against unrelenting weather. What emerges is a mahatma-like character who sticks doggedly to his convictions and in doing so liberates the sport from the pointlessness of its summit fixation.

The device of combining episodes of the Rupal Face rescue with flashbacks to a chronological account within each chapter create the sensation of witnessing a thrilling serial. The gut wrenching snatch of Tomar from certain death by heroic helicopter pilots makes a palpitating climax to an epic outing.

The book's breathtaking descriptions of climbs, perceptive insights into the climber's mind, and strong narrative make it a most satisfying adventure-biography. Despite being pitted against three other

CLUB NEWS

As usual it was an active year, with many Sectional Meetings at Mumbai, Kolkatta, Delhi and London. The Himalayan Journal Vol. 64 was published in October 2008. Three E Letters were published and sent to entire membership and others. E Letter 14: Oct 2008, E Letter 15: March 2009, E Letter 16: July 2009

The Grindlays Bank Mountain Scholarships were awarded to various trainees. Many new books were added to the library.

The Club membership continues to grow beyond 1000 members spread over various parts of the world and consisting of many leading mountaineers. The membership is open to all who are interested in any aspects of the Himalaya and are qualified to be members.

Full details and forms are available from Hon. Secretary, THE HIMALAYAN CLUB CENTRE, 314, Turf Estate, Shakti Mills Lane off E. Moses Road, Mahalaxmi,

Mumbai 400 011, India. Phone: 91-22 2491 2829 , E mail: info@himalayanclub.org, Website: www.himlayanclub.org
(Full details of the activities in 2008-09 organised by the

Himalayan Club and at its sections are available in E Letters).

For Purchase of the Himalayan Journal and Trade Inquiries

contact Oxford University Press 67, C.S.T. Road, Vidyanagari PO, Kalina, Santacruz (E), Mumbai 400 098

Phone: 91-22-2697 3891/92, 2652 1034/35, Fax: 91-22-2652 1133 www.oupin.com
Printed in India by Parkar Arts, 1st floor, India Printing House, G.D. Ambekar Road, Wadala, Mumbai 400 031, Designed by Reflections and published by Vijay Crishna, Hon. Secretary for the Himalayan Club, 314, Turf Estate, Shakti Mills Lane off E. Moses Road, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai 400 011, India.

THE HIMALAYAN JOURNAL

Volume 65

(2009)

(incorporating the years 2008-2009)

Honorary Editor

HARISH KAPADIA

Honorary Assistant Editors

Nandini Purandare Rajesh Gadgil

Assistance

Business

Rishad Naoroji

S. P. Mahadevia

Designer

Aparna Joshi

THE HIMALAYAN CLUB ACTIVITIES Publications

The Himalayan Journal

Published since 1929, it is the most authentic and authoritative reference on the activities in the Himalaya. It covers climbing, explorations, scientific observations and almost all aspects related to the Himalaya. The contributors include some of the best writers and climbers active in the range.

The Himalayan Club Newsletter

Published since 1951 the Newsletter covers the climbs in the Indian Himalaya exhaustively. The other major events in the Himalaya, news and views and details of the Himalayan Club activities are covered.

E Letter

Keeping with the modern trend the E Letter is started since 2005. It is sent electronically through E mails of members and to anyone requesting for it. Edited by young editors, it is sent periodically covering the Club news and current events in the world of mountains.

The Himalayan Club Website : (www.himalayanclub.org)

The exhaustive Web site covers various aspects related to the Club, like activities, articles, application forms, subscription rates and all the news from The Himalayan Club Newsletter and E Letters. The Himalayan Club Yahoo Group is gathering of like minded persons on the Web. Open to all to register and communicate.

Libraries

The Himalayan Club Libraries at New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata

The Himalayan Club houses a large library of books at the India International Center, Max Muller Road, Lodi Estate, New Delhi. Sub-libraries operate at Mumbai and Kolkata. Soli Mehta Library is located at Mumbai.

Events

Annual Lecture Series: Arun Samant Memorial Lectures, Kaivan Mistry Memorial Lectures and Sarat Chandra Das Memorial Lectures.

Annual Seminars are held at Mumbai and Kolkata. Himalayan Club Re-Union of members is held annually at London, Annual Dinner is held in Mumbai, Workshops and Lectures on various Himalayan subjects are held.

Kekoo Naoroji Book Award

The award was started by the Naoroji family in memory of Kekoo Naoroji, Past President and a great supporter of the club. Each year the award is given to an outstanding book on the Himalayan subject, from the entries received.

Sponsorships

Expedition Sponsorship is granted for a worthwhile project by HC members Standard Chartered Bank Mountain Scholarship , Kesarbai Kilachand Scholarship and J. B. Waller Equipment Fund are given to needy students for training.

THE HIMALAYAN CLUB CENTRE

The headquarters of the Club, situated in a central locality, in heart of Mumbai. All are invited to visit and take advantage of the facilities offered and view the displays. It is open every day from 11 a.m. to 6 pm and staff is available to help.

Displays

The Himalayan Club and its officers, including names of current officers. Pictorial history of the Himalaya Club, formation, celebrations, historical events and personalities. The Himalayan Journal and its editors, from 1929 till current date. Himalayan Achievers Galley, those who have excelled in the Himalayan fields with climbs, exploration, literature, writing, studies and travels. Map depicting all 8000 m peaks in the Himalaya, marking their locations on a large map and also showing the countries with the Himalayan Club representatives. Display of Tiger Badge and Himalayan Club Logo, with its meaning and historical importance. Special exhibitions: at present on Nanda Devi and its history, depicting routes into the sanctuary, historical expeditions to the mountains and climbers and explorers associated with the peak. Different mountains will be covered and the display will change from time to time.

Reference Material

Lt Nawang Kapadia Collection :

Map Library - contains a large collection of maps.

Visual Library - contains videos, DVDs on mountains.

Oral Histories - Audio and Video recordings of Himalayan Club members and famous mountaineers. At present, it includes recordings of T.H. Braham, Aamir Ali, Gurdial Singh, Sir Chris Bonnington, Mark Richey, Yoshio Ogata, Tamotsu Nakamura and others.

The Himalayan Club library, Editor's Papers all papers, articles, photos, maps received for the Himalayan Journal are kept in bound albums or on a CD format, with an index. Archives of historical photos, papers and mementos from various historical personalities.

Activities

Meetings and Lectures organized by the Club, including meetings of the Managing Committee are held at HCC.

The HCC is open to all and any member or others are welcome to visit.

Special Events

Special celebrations held by the Club : for the Golden Jubilee (1978) (50th year), 60th year (1988), the new Millennium(2000) and the 75th year (2003) and celebrations for the 80th year (2008).

Special books published by the Club and few of these titles were sent complimentary to entire membership. 80 years on Top film on the 80th year of the club was produced and is available for sale.