EXPEDITIONS 1981-1983

  1. 1981 NEPAL
  2. 1981 GARHWAL
  3. 1982 SIKKIM
  4. 1982 GARHWAL
  5. 1982 KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  6. 1982 KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
  7. 1982 KARAKORAM
  8. 1982 CHINA
  9. 1983 BHUTAN — SIKKIM
  10. 1983 NEPAL (Winter 1982-1983)
  11. 1983 NEPAL (Pre-monsoon)
  12. 1983 NEPAL (Post-monsoon)
  13. 1983 NEPAL (Winter 1983-1984)
  14. 1983 GARHWAL
  15. 1983 KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  16. 1983 KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL (Winter)
  17. 1983 KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
  18. 1983 KARAKORAM
  19. 1983 CHINA
  20. Garhwal (1982)
  21. Chamba (Himachal Pradesh) (1968)

 

 

1981 NEPAL
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Chulu West (6584 m) (a) Canadian
(b) Austrian
K. O'Connell
R. Scheitl
C 15/10
C 15/10Y
2 Chulu (6625 m) Austrian R. Scheitl C 16/10

 

 

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1981 GARHWAL
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Kalanka (6921 m) British Nick Kekus A

 

 

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1982 SIKKIM
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Kangchengyao (6889 m) Indian Army Maj V. Singh 1st Ascent 2/10

 

 

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1982 GARHWAL
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Devistan I (6678 m) (a) Indian Ladies
(b) W. German
S. Gangotri
B. Neubaur
C
C
2 Shivling British Nick Kekus A
3 Nanda Devi (7891 m) Australian M. Rheinberger A
4 Dunagiri (7066 m) (a) Spanish
(b) Spanish
M. Castellsaguo
A Luna
C 7/9
A
5 Bharte Khunta (6578 m) W. German A. Wisner A
6 Gangotri I(6672 m) Japanese Y. Matsumoto A
7 Gangotri III(6577 m) British Ian Haig A
8 Bhagirathi II Japanese M. Sugiara C
9 Kalindi(6102 m - 20,020 ft) Indian V. Gangal C
1O Nanda Khat(6611 m) Japanese S. Sadamura A
11 Satopanth(7075 m) (a) W. German
(b) Japanese
O. Zaha
K. Toya
A
C 30/9
12 Kalanka W. German K. Schrag C 28/9
13 Changabang(6864 m) Australian C. Nottle C 5/10
14 (a) Rishi Kot(6236 m)
(b) Hanuman(6075 m)
Spanish -Canadian A. Luna C 19/18
C 15/8
15 Bhagirathi III(6454 m) British B. BartonA. Fyffe C 8/10
16 (a)Kirti Stambh(6270 m)
(b) Kharchakund
Scottish R. Lindsay 1st Ascent
17 Thalay Sagar(6904 m) (a) British
(b) Spanish
J. V. Anthoine
G. Sewaro
A
A
18 Bhrigupanth(6772 m) Japanese K. Yamakura C 21/9

 

 

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1982 KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Dharamsura(6555 m) Scottish A. N. Ridley C 26/7
2 CB 10(Tara Pahar)(6227 m) Japanese T. Shimoi C NE ridge
3 CB 13(6264 m) Japanese O. Sekiguchi C
4 CB 31(6096 m) Japanese Y. Munemori C
5 CB 14(6079 m) Japanese T. Ito 1st Ascent11/9
6 CB 33(6172 m) Japanese K. Meguro A
7 Menthosa(6443 m) Irish S. McGuireC. Collins A
8 Papsura(6451 m) Japanese T. Sasaki A
9 Peak 6011 m(Spiti-Pin valley) Indian M. Prakash A
10 CB 9(6108 m) Japanese Y. Nishikawa A
11 Angdu Ri(5952 m) (a) Indian
(b) Japanese
K. Khadalia
T. Muchizuki
CC
12 KR4(6340 m) British Army Lt Col R. Hardy 1st Ascent8/10

 

 

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1982 KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Nun(7135 m) (a)French
(b)German
(c)German
(d)Japanese
O. Pierre
G. Schulz

N. Katsuyama
C
C
C
C
2 White Needle(6556 m) (a) Indian
(b) Taiwanese
Daljit Singh
W. H. Hsung
C
C
3 Pinnacle Peak (6930 m) W German W. Spindler C
4 Kun(7087 m) (a) French
(b) Indian
C. Jaccoux
Mandip Singh Soin
C 29/8C
19/7 Solo
5 Janam(6392 m) (Kar nala Dutch C8/10

 

 

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1982 KARAKORAM
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Gasherbrum II (8035 m) (a) Austrian
(b) French
(c) W German—Austrian
H.Rott
J. M. Gosselin
Dr Gerd Brummer & Dr N. Wolfe
C 10/6
A
A
2 Broad Peak (8047 m) (a) Austrian
(b) W German
Hans G. Frick
P. Golggner
A
C23/7
3 Broad Peak North(7600 m) Italian Renato Casarotto A Solo
4 Masherbrum (7821 m) W German Dr V. Stallbohm A
5 Kunyang Chhish(7852 m) (a) Japanese
(b) French
I. Nakamura
P. Pujot
A E ridge
A N ridge
6 Latokll(7077 m) Spanish G. Lateo A
7 Latok I(7143 m) British Rab Carrington A
8 GasherbrumI (8068 m) German J. Strum C
9 K2(8610 m) Austrian A. Twitner A
10 Savoia Kangri (7263 m) Czech Z. Lukes A
11 Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) (6960 m) British P. Nunn A
12 Babuli Mo Tin (c. 60U0m) French P. Cordier
J. Havrin
1st Ascent
13 Nanga Parbat (8125 m) (a) Swiss
(b) Swiss
(c) W German
(d)French
H. Neve
Y. Seigneur
S. Worner
P. Mazaud
A
A
C
C
The west face of Kang Guru (6981 m — 22,904 ft) was climbed by a Yugoslav-expedition on 12 October 1982.

Illustrated Note 11
The west face of Kang Guru (6981 m — 22,904 ft) was climbed by a Yugoslav-expedition on 12 October 1982. The party was led by V. Mesaric. This was the original route of the first ascent. One member made a ski descent from 6800 m. Photo: Marijan Cepelak

Minapin (7266 m) also known as Diran was climbed by the Swiss expedition leader Ruth Steinmann on 30 june 1983 with Edi Furrer.

Illustrated Note 12
Minapin (7266 m) also known as Diran was climbed by the Swiss expedition leader Ruth Steinmann on 30 june 1983 with Edi Furrer. Ascent was repeated next day by Andreas and Feliks Muller. Both ascents were via north face and west ridge. This was the third ascent of Diran, first climbed in 1968 (Austrian) and 1979 (Spanish). Photo: Ruth Steinmann

Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
14 (a) Ganalo(6606 m)
(b) Ganalo West(6400 m)
Spanish A. Landas A
C

 

 

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1982 CHINA
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Gongga Shan (7590 m) (a) Japanese
(b) German
H. Saito
E. Herren
A
A
2 Everest Dutch A. Stuart A
3 Changtse(7550 m) Austrian E. Geyer
Dr H. Tauscher
1st Ascent
16/10
4 Shisha Pangma (801 m) Japanese Dr M Hara C
5 Porong Ri (7294 m) Japanese T.Ito 1st Ascent 14/5
6 (a) Pt 6310 m
(b) Pt 6630 m (Kongur massif)
Oundle School U.K. J. Lee C
7 Mustagh Ata (7546 m) (a) Japanese
(b) German
K.Yabuki
M. Schuck
C
C

 

 

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1983 BHUTAN — SIKKIM
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 (a) Jichudrake(c. 7000 m)
(b) Seepchu kang (c. 5200 m)
Tohan ClubTokyo J. Tabei A
C 19/20/5
2 Tserim Kang(c. 7000 m) (Chomoiahri range) Austrian E. Ratheiser 1st Ascent
3 Pauhunri(7125 m) Indian Army Capt A. S. Sadashiva C from NW
4 Jongsong (7474 m) Indian Army Capt A P. Singh 2nd Ascent
5 Kabru Dome The Himalayan Club M.H. ContractorR. Antia A

 

 

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1983 NEPAL (Winter 1982-1983)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Ama Dablam German R. Siegust A
2 Kwangde(6194 m) (a) American
(b) Japanese
Jeff Lowe
D. Breashears
S. Ikuta
C Nface
C NE ridge
3 Pumori S. Korean N.S.W00 C S ridge
4 Keryolung(6681 m) Japanese — Nepalese N. Nagotoshi C NE face
5 Manaslu Japanese N. Yamada A
6 Fluted Peak (6501 m) Japanese Y. Imai A
7 Pharchamo (6273 m) Japanese H. Hasegawa A

 

 

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1983 NEPAL (Pre-monsoon)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Annapurna II (7937 m) American H. Gsellman A
2 Annapurna IV (7525 m) Japanese Y. Yamano C 9/5
3 Ama Dablam (6856 m) (a) Austrian
(b) Belgian — Swiss
A. Haid
N. Hubert
C 12/4
C
4 Baruntse North (7057 m) Dutch I. Ubbink C
5 Changla Nepalese — Japanese K. Endo A
6 Chamar Nepalese — Japanese Y. Miyashire A
7 (a) Chotatse (6440 m)
(b) Taboche (6542 m)
British W. Dark A
A
8 Cho Oyu (8153 m) Austrian R. Messner C
9 (a) ChuluWest
(b) Gusang (6511m)
Japanese H. Nihei A
C 28/4
10 Dhaulagiri I (8167 m) Polish W. C. Szymanski C 18/5
11 Everest (8848 m) American — German G. Lanser C 7/5
12 Gangapurna (7454 m) Austrian R. Amann A
13 Gaurishankar (7145 m) (a) Japanese
(b) Polish
M. Tomita
T. Preytner
A
A
14 Himlung (7126 m) Japanese — Nepalese T. Yoshino A
15 Hiunchuli (7893 m) Polish T. Piotrowski A
16 Jongsong Czech A. Skarja A
17 Jannu (7710 m) French H. Sigayret C 29/4
18 Kang Guru (6981 m) German B. Schefrer A
19 Kangchenjunga (8598 m) (a) Austrian
(b) W German
H. Schell
H. Warth
C
A
20 Langtang Lirung (7239 m) American R. Harwood A
21 Lhotse Shar(8383 m) Italian G.Riva A
22 Makalu (8481 m) (a) American
(b) Belgian
R. Matous
W. Panis
A
A
23 Makalu II (7640 m) American J. Mueller A
24 Manaslu (8156 m) Yugoslav V. Maroevic A
25 Manaslu North British Army Maj D. Keelan C 10/5
26 Pumori (7145 m) American D. Mclntyre A
27 Tukuche(6920 m) Japanese H. Yamamoto C

 

 

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1983 NEPAL (Post-monsoon)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Ama Dablam (a) Swiss
(b) French
G. Bumann
R. Renaud
C
C
2 Annapurna I (8091 m) (a) Italian
(b) Yugoslav
(c) S Korean
G. Lafranconi
A. Streufelj
A. Chang-Yol
A
A
A
3 Annapurana II (a) S Korean
(b) Australian
S. Mo-Gung
T. Macarthey-Snape
A
C 8/10
4 Annapurna III (7555 m) (a) Australian
(b) British
J.Chester
Nick Kekus
A
A
5 Annapurna IV Austrian — Swiss A. Weinsensteiner C 7/10
6 Churen Himal (7317 m) German G. Haider A
7 Chobuje Austrian E. Gritmer A
8 Cho Oyu Nepalese — Italian T. Kingendrath A
9 Dhaulagiri I Japanese T. Hasegawa A
10 Gaurishankar Yugoslav S. Gankar A
11 Dhaulagiri IV (7268 m) Canadian A. Sole C 11/10
12 Baruntse French R. Mandin A
13 (a) Baruntse North (7057 m)
(b) Makalu II
French F. Faure Cc
14 Everest (a) Japanese
(b) Japanese
(c) American
H. Kawasura
H. Yoshiro
J. Sano
C 8/10
C 8/10
A
15 Glacier Dome (7063 m) (a) Austrian
(b) French
W. Nairz
B. Muller
C
A
16 Ganesh IV (7102 m) American R. Ranson A
17 Ganesh II Polish J. Majer A
18 Gangapurna (a) American
(b) Yugoslav
C. Sinclair
S. Belak
A
C 27/10
19 Himlung Japanese — Nepalese J. Kurotaki C 27/10
20 Himalchuli Japanese A. Takabayashi A
21 Hiuncui (6411 m) American E. Simonson C 9/10
22 Numbr (6954 m) Spanish A. Fernandez A
23 Kangtika American S. Brimmer A
24 Kangchenjunga (a) French
(b) Swiss
P. Beghin
D. Bertholet
C 17/10 Solo
C
25 Kang Guru Japanese Prof N. Ueno C
26 Lhotse (8511m) Japanese K.lakahashi C
27 Lhotse Shar Canadian R. Marshall A
28 Langtang Ri Japanese — Nepalese R. Nishioku C 8/10
29 Makalu (a) New Zealand — Australian
(b) Japanese
Peter Hillary
M. Sukushia
A
A
30 Manaslu (a) S Korea
(b) German
(c) Austrian
Young Ho Huh
G. Haerter
W. Studer
C 22/10 Solo
A
A
31 Nilgiri North (7061 m) Australian Z. Zaharias C
32 Ngosumba Kang(7806 m) Japanese K. Chigoto A

 

 

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1983 NEPAL (Winter 1983-1984)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Api Polish T. Piotrowski C 24/12
2 Manaslu Poli h L. Kroniswaski C 11/12

 

 

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1983 GARHWAL
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Bhagirathi II (a) Japanese
(b) Indian
A. Suzuki
H. Mistry
C 115/5 N Face
C 15/6 E Face
2 Shivling (a) Irish
(b) Japanese
IanRea
H. Seki
A
C
3 Bharte Khunta (a) Japanese
(b) Japanese
Y. Morizano
Y. Matsumoto
A S ridge
A
4 Bhagirathi I Japanese Y. Fukudo A N ridge
5 Meru (a) Italian ladies
(b) Scottish
N. Billia
Iain Peter
AN ridge
A
6 Kedaraath (6940 m) Japanese F. Maeda AS face
7 Pk 6507 m (Gangotri) Japanese H. Machida SE ridge
8 KJrti Stambh (a) Indian
(b) British
P. Nagaraj
R. J. Pawsay
A
A
9 Bhrigupanth (a) Taiwanese
(b) Japanese
Huang Lee Chuw Jung
R. Nonaka
C
A
10 Satopanth (a) Japanese
(b) German
(c) Japanese
(d) German
(e) Austrian
(f) Japanese
(g) Hungarian
A. Suzuki
H. Taber
H. Seki
T. Strobl
J. Weber
H. Takahashi
P. Dekaney
C
C
C
C
A
C
A
11 Thalay Sagar (a) Japanese
(b) French
M. Kimura
M. J. Claude
A
A
12 Sudarshan Parbat (6507 m) Japanese H. Machida A
13 Kharchakund (6612 m) Austrian B. Lindonthaler C
14 Bhetiara-ka-Danda (5748 m) German H. Konnerth C
15 Tharkot (0099 m) British S. Wheeler C
16 Nandakhat Japanese Y. Gyata A
17 Kalanag (6387 m) Indian S. K. Mehta C
18 Suli Top (6300 m) Indian P. Tendulkar A
19 Meru North(6692 m) Polish D. Wach C15/9
20 Nilgiri Parbat(6474 m) 1.1. T. Bombay A.Deshpande A
21 Thalay Sagar (a) Polish — Norwegian
(b) British
J. Skorek
J.Anthoine
Joe Brown
C
A
22 Mana (7272 m) I. M. F Col B. Sandhu A
23 a) Kamet(7756 m)
(b) Abi Gamin(7355 m)
Indian Army Col Kumar C
C
24 ShivlingWest (6501 m) British C. Bonington
J. Fotheringham
1st Ascent 18/9
25 24 Bhagirathi I25 (6856 m) British M. Moran C

 

 

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1983 KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Mulkila (M-4)(6517 m) German M.Seebaur A
2 M6 (6182 m) Swiss Asper J. Jacques C 23/6N face
3 Deo Tibba(6001 m) American Fran Morris C
4 Menthosa British David Challis A
5 CB 13A(6264 m) Japanese M. Kudo C
6 Cathedral(6100 m) Japanese K. Sato C
7 KR 4 Japanese S. Toyoda C
8 Phabrang(6172 m) Indian A. Shelat A
9 Devachan(6187 m) Indian - C
10 KR 1 (6157 m) Indian L. Ghosh C 25/7
11 Gangstang(61630 m) Indian H. P. Ray C 15/a
12 Mukerbeh(6069 m) Indian A. Kelkar C 8/9
13 Pk c 6250 m (Chango glacier Kinnaur) Indian S. Saith Y. Zaheer A
14 Kishtwar Shivling (c. 6000 m) British S. Venables D. Renshaw 1st Ascent
15 (a) Lagma(5761m)
(b)Sibu
(c. 5700 m)
(c) Zumto'(c. 5800 m)
(d) 'Tserip'(c. 5980 m)
(e) 'Kawu’
(c. 5910 m)
(f) Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303 m)
(g) Shilla(6111 m)
The Mountaineers Bombay Harish Kapadia 1st Ascent
1st Ascent
1st Ascent
1st Ascent
1st Ascent

 

 

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1983 KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL (Winter)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Kailash(5656 m) Mani Mahesh range The MountaineersBombay Harish Kapadia A

 

 

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1983 KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Brammah II(6425 m) Indian B. Dass C
2. Haramukh (5143 m) Indian S. Das A
3. Brammah I (6416 m) American M. Kendall A
4. Kang-la-Cha (6150 m) Japanese M. .Iizuka C 12-13/8
5. Arjuna Polish B. Slamo C
6. ZI (6130 m) Japanese F. Maeda A
7. Pt. 6550 m (Zanskar) British B. B. Hope 1st Ascent 24/7
8. Kolahoi (5425 m) (a)New Zealand
(b) Italian
P. Bain
G. Bianchi
C 31/5
C
9. Nun (7135 m) (a)Polish
(b)S Korean
(c) Japanese
(d) Japanese
E. Temlak
K. Hirasawa
T. Razuo
A
C 19/7
A
C
10. Kun (7087 m) (a) Japanese
(b)Austrian
T. Yarazaka
L. Schmuck
A
C
11. D41 (5813 m) Indian R. Antia A
12. Pinnacle Peak (6930 m) French P. Demolombe C 1/9
13. Pk 6550 (Durang Drang glacier Zanskar) British G. Eckersall 1st Ascent 25/7

 

 

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1983 KARAKORAM
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Batura IV (c. 7500 m) Polish W. Wisz C 31/8
2 Mustagh Tower * (7273 m) American M. Kovington A
3 (a) Gasherbram I (8068 m)
b) Gasherbram II (8035 m)
Polish J. Kukuczk
a W. Kurtyaka
C
C
4 Tirich Mir (7706 m) Polish R. Warecki C
5 Broad Peak (8047 m) Polish Laddies A. Gerwinska
K. Palmowska
C
6 Nanga Parbat (8125 m) (a) American
(b) Japanese
(c) Austrian
(d) Japanese
(d) Japanese
(d) Japanese
Rick Wyatt
I. Shinkai
B. Kokuller
O. Kunii
S. Kido
T. Sakahara
A
A
C 17/7
A
C 17/7
A
7 Baintha Brakk II (6960 m) (Ogre II) South Korean Yu-Han-Kyu
Lin-Tok-Yong
1st Ascent
16/7
8 (a) Disteghil Sar South (7450 m)
(b) Disteghil Sar east (77C0 m)
(c) Yazghil North C7 4C0 m)
(d) 'Tiziana* (5050 m)
(e) 'Cucciolo* (5030 m)
(f) 'Ornella' (5050 m)
Italian A. Bergamaschi C
C 26/7
1st Ascent
C
C
C
9 K2 Spanish G. Azriz A
10 Sani Pakush (6885 m) Japanese S. Nakano K. Tsukamoto A
11 Sia-Shish (7040 m) Spanish G. Mallucci C
12 Broad Peak North (7600 m) (a) Italian
(b) German
R. Cassarotto
H. Rudele
C 28/6
Solo A
13 Baintha Brakk (Ogre) (7285 m) French D. Suchet A
14 Rakaposhi (7788 m) French J. C. Legros C

 

 

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1983 CHINA
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Kongur (7719 m) American I. Wade A
2 Celestial Peak (5334 m) American E. Vaill 1st Ascent 8 — 9/10
3 Everest (Kangshung face) American Dr J Morissey C
4 Everest (a) American
(b) Chilean
R. Craig
G. Cyaizxin
A
A
5 K 2 (North Ridge) Italian F. Santon C
6 Shisha Pangma (8046 m) (a) Austrian
(b) American
S. Hupfamer
G. Porzak
C 29/4
C

 

 

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CORRECTIONS
Garhwal (1982)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Nanda Devi (7817 m) Indian P. Chowdhury A (Not climbed)
(See H. J. Vol. 39, p. 212, item 14)

 

 

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CORRECTIONS
Chamba (Himachal Pradesh) (1968)
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
2 (a) Kailash (Mani Mahesh range) (5656 m)
(b)Pt. c. 5180 m (Near Chobu Pass)
IMF Indo-Japanese Ladies Exp.
C
N. Patel (Pandya) A Receed (not 1st Ascent)
(See H.J. Vol. XXVIII, p. 153, item 13)

 

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