Disteghil Syr (7885) 1982, (by Joaquim Prunes)
THE APPROACH march start at Nagar. On 26 June Nagar-Khaltor (4 h), Khaltor-Buyukhair (4 h), Buyukhair-Hispar (4 h), Hispar Gurbun (2.30 h), Gurbun-Bulumbat (4 h), Bulumbat-Bularung (2.30 h), on 1 July. From Bularung to base camp (6 h). We used 6 days to carry all baggages with several porters from Hispar.
Base camp was established on 8 July and Camp 1 at same time. Base camp was on the right moraine of Kunyang glacier at 4450 m. * Camp 1 is set just below the south face of main peak at 5000 m. We work more than one week in bad weather, and on 19 July Camp 2 was set at 5900 m. The route followed a couloir at right of Stefan route. From Camp 2 the route follows same as of the first ascent. Camp 3 was established on 22 July at 6600 m. On 23 July all members are back in base camp. From Camp 3, three members open the route to Camp 4 while other two come back to Camp 2. Next day (30 July) the three members set up Camp 4 at 7250 m. On 31 July they left Camp 4 at 8 a.m. and following the route of first ascent, at 2.50 p.m. two of them (Ramon and Jaume) J reached the top. The third one (Toni) waiting for them at the col, 50 m below the top.
On 3 August all the members are in base camp, and next day we begin return march, following the same itinerary.
Fixed ropes were used between Camp 1 and Camp 2 (800 m). From Camp 2 to Camp 3 (350 m) and from Camp 3 to Camp 4 (150 m). We did not use oxygen.
From 20 July to the end the weather was very good: too hot during the journey. End June to 19 July was generally bad weather. The snow condition was iced between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and last couloir near summit.
We made the second ascent of Disteghil Sar main peak (7885 m) by the Austrian route of 1960. Variation between 5000 to 5900 m.
Members: Josep Aced, Ramon Biosca, Toni Bros, Jaume Matas, Josep Paytubi (deputy leader), Joaquim Prunes (leader).
Italian Expedition to Hispar Zone, 1983 (by Arturo Bergamaschi)
The expedition consisting of twenty members from Italy operated in the Hispar zone during the month of July 1983. It was led by Prof Arturo Bergamaschi.
The aim of the expedition was two-fold:
— To climb the Disteghil Sar South, 7450 m, from the southern slope.
— To continue the research in hemorchageology started; in the earlier expeditions.
Departure from Bologna for Rawalpindi
Arrival in Rawalpindi.
It took six days to clear the supplies and equipment through customs which having arrived in Karachi with Russian airlines, was not forwarded to Rawalpindi.
Departure Jor GUgit with a.'.large bus; 34 hours to cover (8ipHm of the road which connects Rawalpindi with Gilgit.
Trip to Nagar with 3 jeeps arid 4 tractors.
Hiring of porters. The Mir of Nagar advised us to use groups of 20 porters with their leader and a general supervisor, thus solving the problems which will inevitably come up during the trek.
We accepted the proposal which proved to be half effective.
We signed the contract in the presence of the Mir, Rs 90 daily, food included, for 9 days — 8 for walking and one for rest.
Start of the trek with 81 porters arid 5 leaders; It Was immediately evident that the progress will be very slow and we don’t walk more than 5 or 6 hours per day.
Arrival at the village of Hispar. Two and a half days should have been sufficient; we took four tiays. The path is to" th« trwe right of the Hispar river; rendered difficult by the heat, the hazards of constantly falling rocks and the lack of clear drinking water unless one accepted to drink the brownish water of Hispar river.
Arrival at base camp, 4550 m.About half hour from the base camp the porters ask for an extra payment of 2 days claiming that thepath fblloiyed had been very dangerous. If we don't accept, they won't proceed any further. It's a terrible day; it's snowing and we are in the middle of the Kunyang glacier between the drifts and strong streams all of which force us to accept.
Setting up of the base eampi It snowed almost all day on the 12th.
Start of the climbing activity. To climb Disteghil Sar South (others also call this mountain Yazghil South) we shall follow the path followed by the Poles in 1980. A group of 10 arrive after having crossed the Kunyang glacier, with equipment and supplies, to a height of 5100 m and set up Camp 1.
A group of 5 proceed past Camp 1 and reach 5250 m beginning the cJimb of an enormpus drift which at present is not in danger of falling. To arrive at the blase of the '^reat drift' it is necessary to cross a heavily erevassed glacier and pass under an enormous hanging glacier with a facade of 400 m, which discharged continuously night and day. The situation appears quite dangerous; we can't see any other solution.
We decide to proceed trying to pass under the glacier during the bouts When presumably it should riot discharge.
It's snowing heavily. We all return to base camp.
The weather clears and remains perfect till the end of the month. We start the climb again. There's continuous activity from the^ base camp to Camp 1. Camp 1 becomes the advanced base camp. Corradini, Ferrari, Moreschini, Nannuzzi, Rampini and Sala attack the 'great drift' and reach 5800 m where Camp 2 is set up.
Corradini and Moreschini stay at Camp 2 while the others descend to Camp 1 and base camp.
Supplies are brought to Camp 2.
27. Kishtwar Shivling (c. 6000 m). Upper part of north face with route and bivouacs marked. Article 17 Photo : Joan Cabau
28. Dick Renshaw returning from the summit of Kishtwar Shivling to the top bivouac, which was on the snow mushrooms beyond the col. Article 17 Photo : Stephan Venables
29. Lenin peak from base camp. Note 1 Photo : Joan Cabau
Bianchetti, Corradini, Ferrari, Moreschini continue to climb and reach the point where the slopes from Kunyang North and Disteghil Sar East meet at 6350 m. A provisional Camp 3 is set up.
Rampini and Sala set up Camp 3 at 6450 m.
Supplies and equipment are brought to the various camps.
The climb to the various camps is made difficult by the soft snow. At any time of the day one sinks upto one's knees.
Bianchetti, Ferrari, Rampini and Sala arrive at the point between Disteghil Sar East and Disteghil Sar South which is at 6900 m. They return to Camp 3 in the evening.
Bianchetti, Ferrari, Rampini and Sala return to 6900 m with tents and supplies for camp 4. Bianchetti, Ferrari and Sala leave Camp 4 early in the afternoon and reach the top of Disteghil Sar South (7450 m) at 8 hrs. In the last part of the climb the group is faced with a strong, freezing wind. They return to Camp 4 and the following day descend to Camp 1.
Corradini and Moreschini join Rampini at Camp 4.
Corradini and Moreschini climb Disteghil Sar East (7700 m). Botto Piero and Nannuzzi leave from Camp 3 and after a short stop at Camp 4 reach the top of Disteghil Sar South. After reaching the top the climbers descend to the lower camps in order to give the others the possibility of making the climb.
Casolari and Poli reach Rampini at Camp 4.
Casolari, after having traversed to the north of Disteghil Sar South, reaches the point between Yazghil North and Disteghil Sar South. He proceeds on snow and after having passed a rather heavy mist, reaches the top of Yazghil North (7400 m), a first ascent. Poli and Rampini, reaching the point between Yazghil North and Disteghil Sar South, climb Disteghil Sar South by the east slope — a new route.
Start of break-up of camps;
All the supplies and equipment are at base camp. We prepare for the return.
Arrival at Nagar early afternoon. In the evening we reach Gilgit with jeeps and tractors.
From the base camp to Nagar it took three and a half days but we paid for ten and a half days. The intervention of the Mir calmed the porters who had made impossible demands.
The climbing activity was also directed towards the mountains which dominate the base camp.
Tiziana peak 5050 m with 3° difficulty (Calza — Mairani) Cue-ciolo peak 5030 m with 4° difficulty (Benedetti) Ornella peak 5050 m with 5° difficulty (Benedetti — Nannuzzi).