Mountain | Expedition Leader | Remarks | |||
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LADAKH | |||||
1 | 3aser Kangri (25,170 ft.) | Indian | Maj. H. V. Bahuguns | Attempted; climbed 4 outlying unnamed summits of 20,145 ft.; 20,300 ft.; 21,610 ft.; 22,500 ft.; |
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2 | Phunangma (22,272 ft.) | Indian | Maj. R. C. Naidu | 1st ascent 4.8.70 Repeated 5.8.70 |
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KULU-LAHUL-CHAMBA | |||||
1 | Mulkilla (21,380 ft.) |
National Defence Academy Exp | Ft. Lt. K. P. Venugopal | Climbed by all members 1.7.70 | |
2 | Pk. 2.1,130 ft. (Bara ShigrI Gh] |
PATHIKRIT, Calcutta, Ladies' Exp. | Mrs. S Guha | 1st ascent 21.8.70 | |
3 | Dharmasura (White Sail) (21,148 ft.) |
Delhi Mountaineering Assoc. | Lt.-Col. P. P. S. Cheema | 3rd ascent 31.5.70 | |
4 | Menthosa | British Service-men Exp. | Capt. S. Bemrose | 1st ascent . 13.10.70 | |
5 | Hanuman Tibba | Indian Ladies | M. C. Usha Climbed | Climbed 5.10.70 | |
6 | Consolation Peak f (18,600 ft.) (near Deo Tibba) |
Y.H.A. of Gujarat | Two-member team | Climbed 11.5.70 | |
7 | Mukar Beh (19,910 ft.) (from Rai Ghar Gl.) 'Sophia Pk.’ (c. 19,469 ft.) (in Kudy Gl.) Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft.) (from the west) Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.)) |
Jochi Univ., A.C. | Ryujiro Kanda | Attempted 1st ascent 17.9.70 Climbed 19.9.70 Climbed 7.10.70 |
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GARHWAL | |||||
1 | Jogin I (21,210 ft.) Jogin III (20,065 ft.) |
N.I.M., Uttar-kashi | Lt.-Col. J. C. Joshi | 1st ascent 22.6.70 2nd ascent 22.6.70 |
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2 | Jogin I (21,210 ft.) Jogin II (20,208 ft.) |
Indian | A. Sen | Attempted | |
3 | ManaParbat (22,970 ft.) (in Gangotri region) | Mountaineers' Club, Calcutta |
B. N. Raksbit | Climbed 8.10.70 | |
4 | Bethartoii Himal (20,840 ft.) | Climbers' Club, Bombay | R.G.Desai | Attempted; Climbed Bethartoii South (20,730 ft.) 4.6,70 |
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5 | Trisul (23,360 ft.) | Climbers' Club, Bombay— . Ladies' Exp. . |
Miss Meena Agrawal | Climbed 4.6.70 | |
6 | Trisul (23,360 ft.) | Indo-Tibet Border Police Exp. |
Hukum Singh | Climbed 10.7.70 | |
7 | Nanda Devi (25^645 ft.) | Gujarat Sports Council | N. Purohit | Attempted | |
8 | Nanda Khat | Giri Vihar, Bombay | A.R. Chandekar | Attempted | |
9 | Panch Chuli (22,650 ft.) | N.C.C. Exp | Hukum Singh | Chanchal Mitra | |
BHUTAN | |||||
1 | Chomolhari (23,997 ft.) ' | Indo-Bhutanese Exp. | Lt.-Col. N. Kumar | 2nd ascent 23.4.70 | |
NEPAL | |||||
1 | Everest (20,028 ft.) | Jap.Mt.Evere st Exp. | Saburo Matsukata | Climbed 11.5.70 and 12.5.70. Also attempted S-W face route |
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3 | Lhotse Shar (27,504 ft.) | TYROLIAN LHOTSE EXP., 1970 | SIEGFRIED AEBERLI | 1st ascent 12.5.70 | |
4 | Annapurna I (26,545 ft.) | British-Nepalese Army Annapurna Exp. |
CAPT. HENRY DAY | 2nd ascent 20.5.70 from the north | |
5 | Annapurna I (26,545 ft.) | British Annapurna South Face Exp. |
CHRIS BONINGTON | 3RD ASCENT 27.5.70, FIST UP THE SOUTH FACE . |
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6 | Annapurna III (24,787 ft.) | JAP. WOMEN'S ANNAPURNA III EXP. |
EIKO MAYAZAKI | Climbed 19.5.70 | |
7 | Annapurna IV (24,688 ft.) | KANSAI UNIV. A.C. | MASAHIRO KAWAKITA | Climbed 25.4.70 | |
8 | Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.) Dhaulagiri VI (23,845 ft.) |
KANSAI MOUNTAINEERING CLUB |
TETSUYA NOMURA | Climbed 17.4.70 | |
9 | Churen Himal East Peak (24,184 ft) |
KOREAN A.C. | KIM JUNG SUP. | Climbed 29.4.70 | |
10 | Himal Chuli NE.Peak (21,314 ft.) |
NETHERLANDS NEPAL EXP., 1970 |
J. A. Noordijk (climbing leader J. F. Saltet) |
Climbed 5.5.70, 6.5.70, 7.5.70 and 8.5.70 Climbed |
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11 | fukche West JBeak (22,244 ft) |
WASEDA UNIV. | HISAO YOSHIDA | 30.4.70 1ST ASCENT | |
12 | BUDDA (21,890 FT.) | KEIO UNIV. | YASUHIKO ISO | 1st ascent 2.5.70 | |
13 | Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft.) | DOSHISHA UNIV. | TOKUFU OHTA | 2nd ascent 20.10.70 | |
14 | Aannapurna South (23,683 ft.) |
CHAMONIX FRENCH EXP. | GERARD DEVOUASSOUX | 2ND ASCENT 27.10.70 (1ST ASCENT I BY SOUTH FACE ROUTE) |
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15 | PEAK 29 (DAKURA) (24,652 FT.) |
' OSAKA UNIV. | SHOTARO MIZUNO | 1st ascent 19.10.70 | |
16 | DHAULAGIRI IV (25,133 FT.) DHAULAGIRI VI (23,845 FT.) PK. 7,150 M. (C. 23,459 FT.) (UNNAMED PEAK/ IN THE AREA, LYING BETWEEN 'JUNCTION PK.' (7,108 M.) AND DHAULA VI) |
FUKUOKA A.C. | MICHIHIKO OGATA | Attempted 2nd ascent 1.11.70 1st ascent 25.10.70 |
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17 | PK. 21,978 FT. (WEST OF THE FRENCH COL IN THE HIDDEN \ VALLEY) (LOCAL NAME IS SAID TO BE 'SITA CHUCHURA’) |
NIPPON UNIV., A.C. | Kiyoshi Seita | 1st ascent 26.10.71 | |
18 | KANJIROBA (22,580 FT.) HHMHNAMMIWMNBRIJ |
OSAKA CITY UNIV. | KAZUHISA JOHKEI | 1st ascent of the South Peak, which is the highest in the Kanjiroba Himal, 7.11.70 |
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19 | NAMPA HIMAL (22,162 FT.) | MANCHESTER UNIV. | JOHN ALLEN | Attempted | |
20 | Churen Himal (24,184 ft.) | Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka | Takashi Serizawa | Climbed: Central Peak 24.10.70 and 26.10.70; West Peak 28.10.70 —all first ascents |
*
The summiters H. Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering died on their way down from a fall between Camps V and IV. The mountaineering world has yet to lay down the law on the recognition of ascents where the summiters are involved in fatal accidents before reaching any of the team members—the French on Nanda Devi comes easily to mind. The Japanese in this instance would have a better case than the French who were never seen again. For full article see the present issue of the H.J.—ED.
Mountain | Expedition Leader | Remarks | |||
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KARAKORAM | |||||
1 | NangaParbat (26,660 ft.) | German Exp. | K. Herrligkoffer | Climbed by the Rupal Face 27.6.70 & 28 6.70 |
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2 | K-6 (23,890 ft.) | Austrian Kara-koram Exp. |
E. Koblmuller | Climbed 17.7.70 | |
HINDU KUSH | |||||
1 | Qazi Deft Valley Asp-e-Safed I N (6,450 m.) Noshaq (West and Main Pks.) (7,492 m.) Rakh-e-Myani I (West) (Wala 91 c. 5,200 m.) Rakh-e-Myani II (East) (Wala 92 c. 5,200 m.) Asp-e-Safed I (6,450 m.), II (c. 6,400 m.)l and III ( (c. 6,380 m.) J Noshaq (West) (7,250 m.) Kharposht-e- Yakhi (5,689 m.), |
Osterreichisc he 5 H.K. Exp., 1970 |
Gunther Virt | Climbed 27.7.70 Climbed 15.8.70 1st ascent 19.8.70 Traversed from I to II (1st ascent) 19.8.70 Traverse of I-II-III 24.8.70 & 25.8.70. 1st ascent I of III Climbed 20.8.70 Climbed 27.8.70 |
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2 | Kharposht-e-Yakhi (5,689 m.) Noshaq (Main Pk.) (7,492 m.) |
Tiroler H.K. Ski Exp., 1970 |
R. Schulz | Climbed 11.7.70 f Climbed 25.7.70 | |
3 | Mandaras Valley Koh-e-Keshni- khan (C. 6,750 m.) Koh-e-Kalat (c. 5,600 m.) i |
'Exploration -70'Ost. Forschungs Exp. |
R. De Grancy | Climbed 11.8.70 Climbed 9.8.70 |
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4 | Chhap Darrah—Ishmurgh Valley | Biomedizini sche H.K. Exp., 1970 |
Roman Zink | ||
Koh-e-Brendel (5,207 m.) (South of Wala . 364) |
1st ascent2.9.70 | ||||
Koh-e-Larissa (6,157 m.) (Wala 355) |
1st ascent 4.9.70 and 5.9.70 | ||||
Shir Kohl I (6,392 m.) (Wala 354), |
3rd ascent (6.9.70) | ||||
Shir Koh II (6,370 m.) and Shir Koh III (6,135 m.) Koh-e-Hevad (6,849 m.) |
5th ascent 9.9.70, | ||||
Koh-e-Arusi-e-Nele (6,124 m.) |
6th ascent 10.9.70 | ||||
Koh-e-Dusti (Main Pk. 6,435 m.) |
1st ascent 6.9.70 | ||||
Koh-e-Dusti (West Pk. 6,380 m.) |
1st ascent 11.9.70 4th ascent 11.9.70. First traverse from West to East |
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5 | Pegish Valle | Prager Badhakshan Exp. | Vaclav Lachout | ||
Koh-e-Kabul (5,269 m.) (near j Wala 302) |
1st ascent 19.7.70 | ||||
Koh-e-Praha j (5,420 m.) (near | 1st ascent 27.7.70 | ||||
Wala 302) Pegish Zom I (6,269 m.) (Wala 294) |
Climbed 26.7.70, 1.8.70 and 3.8.70 |
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Pegish Zom II (6,167 m.) (Wala 305) |
Climbed 1.8.70 | ||||
6 | La Langar Valley Langar Peaks |
French H.K. Exp., 1970 | D. Van De Velde | Attempted, but climbed only the Forepeak (6,170 m.) | |
7 | Mandaras Valley Koh-e-Nadir i Shah (6,814 m. Gruber) (Wala 137) |
2nd Yugoslav H.K. Exp., 1970 |
Lojze Steblaj | Climbed 31.7.70 and 1.8.70 | |
M2 = Naser-e Khusrow Tsuka (6,350 m.) |
Climbed 5.8.70 | ||||
Koh-e-Keshni- khan (C. 6,750 m.) | Climbed via M2 12.8.70 and 13.8.70 |
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8 | Darrah-e-Mulaw Valley Koh-e-Kunj (5,752 rri.) Marmar-Koh (5,620 m.) |
Scottish H.K. Exp., 1970 |
R. Alan North | 1st ascent 9.8.70 1st ascent 9.8.70 |
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Koh-e-Crystal (5,700 m.) Koh-e-Farda (5,420 m.) Koh-e-Parrendah (5,637 m.) |
Scottish H.K. Exp., 1970 | R. Alan North | 1st ascent 11.8.70. 1st ascent 11.8.70 1st ascent 15.8.70 |
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Arroos-Koh (5,555 m.) Koh-e-Jumjum- ma (5,430 m.) Koh-e-Sassi (5,316 m.) Shak-e-Kabud (6,190 m.) Pk. 5,590 m. |
1st ascent 15.8.70 1st ascent and traverse 17.8.70 1st ascent 20.8.70 2nd ascent 22.8.70 2nd ascent 23.8.70 |
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9 | Darrah-e-Mulaw Valley Koh-e-Mulaw (5,750 m.) Koh-e-Barf (5,870 m.) (5,797 m. on Frey’s map) Koh-e-Cousin (5,790 m.) (5,751m. on Frey’s map) Shak-e-Kabud (6,190 m.) Tur London (5,752 m.) |
Akita H.K. Exp., 1970 | Kenji Hirasawa | 1st ascent 29.7.70 1st ascent 1.8.70 1st ascent 3.8.70 Attempted Attempted |
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10 | Darrah-e-Pinawi Pk. 5,753 m. (north) Pk. 5,800 m. Pk. 5,900 m. Pk. 5,753 m. (south) Pk. 5,635 m. |
Ohtsu A.C., Shiga Prefecture Exp., 1970 |
Yoshitada Kiuchi | 1st ascent 12.7.70 1st ascent 22.7.70 1st ascent 22.7.70 Attempted Attempted |
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11 | Darrah-e-Buyso- wuk Pk. 5,050 m. Pk. 5,304 m. Pk. 5,370 m. Pk. 5,255 m. |
Gamagoori Yama no Kai, 1 Aichi Prefec- 1 ture Exp., 1970 |
Tsukasa Nakase | 1st ascent 16.7.70 1st ascent 21.7.70 1st ascent 22.7.70 1st ascent 24.7.70 |
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Darrah-e-Paghar Koh-e-Paghar (5,606 m.) Paghar East (5,550 m.) Pk. 5,414 m. |
1st ascent 30.7.70 1st ascent 25.7.70 1st ascent 30.7.70 |
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12 | Koh-e-Bandaka (6,843 m.) | Nagasaki Univ. Bandaka Exp., j 1970 |
Yoshinori Ichise | Climbed 14.8.70 | |
13 | West Parun Valley Pk. 5,740 m. ' ('Parun Spear') |
Mt. YariHuty Party, 1970 | Minoru Murata | Climbed 30.6.70 | |
Pk. 5,611 m. Pk. 5,510 m. Pk. 5,375 m. Pk. 5,515 m. Pk. 5,420 m. SE. of Bandaka Pk. 5,907 m. ('Zerago Peak') |
Climbed 2.7.70 Climbed 2.7.70 Climbed 3.7.70 Climbed 5.7.70 Climbed 1 5.7.70 1st ascent 17.7.70 |
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14 | Mir Samir (5,809m.) | (a) Chukyo A.C. (b) Meijo Univ |
(a) Shigeo Handa (b) Kohtaro Ohyama (SEE ALSO item 25) |
Climbed 21.7.70 | |
15 | Dir Gol Malgiri Zom I (5,579 m.) Malgiri Zom II (5,550 m.) Malgiri Zom III (5,520 m.) Tirich Mir (7,706 m.) |
Tiroler H.K. Exp., 1970 | Kurt Pittracher | Climbed 21.7.70 1st ascent 21.7.70 1st ascent 21.7.70 Attempted via S. Glacier Pk. |
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16 | Tirich Mir (East) | Deutsche H.K. Exp., 1970 | S. Rausch | attempted by SE. Spur | |
17 | Darban Valley M 8 (6,530 m.) Marianne Zom (6,390 m.) (Wala 119) |
Spedizione Comasca 'Pakistan 70' |
Reno Zocchi | 1st ascent 18.7.70 Climbed 11.7.70 |
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18 | Upper Tirich Glacier Ghul Lasht Zom East (6,611 m.) Ghul Lasht Zom South (c. 6,400 m.) Dertona Peak (6,100 m.) Peak on SW. ridge of Istor- o-Nal (probably West I) |
Exp. Sektion Garmisch-Partenkirchen / and Sektion Munich of D.A.V. |
Climbed 21.8.70 Climbed 21.8.70 Climbed 20.8.70 Climbed 30.8.70 |
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19 | Kotgaz Glacier Noghor Zom (5,935 m.) (Wal£ 278) Pegish Zom II (6,167 m.) |
Yokohama San- ryokai H.K. Exp., 1970 |
Miki Yanagishima | Climbed 25.7.70 Climbed 1.8.70 |
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20 | Hindu Raj Bashkargolo Zom (5,400 m.) shporili Zom (c. 5,900 m.) |
H.R. Exp. of Keio Univ. | Takeshi Funaki | 2nd ascent 6.8.70 Attempted |
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21 | Thui I (6,660 m.) Pk. 4,850 m. (west side ; Panarilio Gl.) j |
Unpyo Club H.R. Exp., 1970 | Takaaki Asaga | Attempted Climbed 14.7.70 | |
22 | Rinzho Gel Pk. 5,100 m. ('Ajudi Zom') Pk. 5,500 m. ('Aldokh Zom') Gordoghan Gol Gordoghan Zom (6,240 m.) Sohnyoan Glacier Sohnyoan Zom (5,625 m.) |
Todorei Party H.R. Exp., 1970 | Chuji Sato | 1st ascent 14.7.70 1st ascent 17.7.70 The highest point reached 27.7.70 by this team and the Hosei Univ. Exp 1968 was the shoulder of the peak. 1968 momenta found by this Exp. Climbed 2.8.70 |
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23 | Buni Zom South Shupel Zom East (5,923 m.) Pk. 5,265 m. |
Chiba Univ. of Tech. Exp., j 1970 |
Ken Kariyama | 1st ascent 1.8.70 1st ascent 5.8.70 |
|
24 | Manali Glacier Pk. 5,020 m. Pk. 5,550 m. |
H.K. Exp. of OAV JGM Bregenz OAV |
Heinz Koors | Climbed 20.8.70 Climbed 25.8.70 |
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25 | Swat Kobistan Falak Sar 1 (5,918 m.) |
Meijo Univ. Party, 1970 | Kohtaro Ohyama | Climbed 19.8.70 | |
26 | Upper Gabral Valley Piers II (c. 5,500 m.) (5,334 m. acc. to N.K. Exp. 1968; |
Gifu Mount. Assoc. Exp., 1970 |
Masaru Tsuzuki | 1st ascent 21.6.70 | |
27 | Exploration of Buni Zom area Laspur Valley, Thalo An, Manali An, Badwal An to Chitral via Kalkot, Dir and Lowarai Pass |
Toyama Ladies' Reconn. Exp., 1970 |
Tomoko Arimoto |