EXPEDITION NOTES

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
LADAKH
1 3aser Kangri (25,170 ft.) Indian Maj. H. V. Bahuguns Attempted;
climbed 4 outlying unnamed summits of
20,145 ft.;
20,300 ft.;
21,610 ft.;
22,500 ft.;
2 Phunangma (22,272 ft.) Indian Maj. R. C. Naidu 1st ascent 4.8.70
Repeated 5.8.70
KULU-LAHUL-CHAMBA
1 Mulkilla
(21,380 ft.)
National Defence Academy Exp Ft. Lt. K. P. Venugopal Climbed by all members 1.7.70
2 Pk. 2.1,130 ft.
(Bara ShigrI Gh]
PATHIKRIT, Calcutta, Ladies' Exp. Mrs. S Guha 1st ascent 21.8.70
3 Dharmasura
(White Sail) (21,148 ft.)
Delhi Mountaineering Assoc. Lt.-Col. P. P. S. Cheema 3rd ascent 31.5.70
4 Menthosa British Service-men Exp. Capt. S. Bemrose 1st ascent . 13.10.70
5 Hanuman Tibba Indian Ladies M. C. Usha Climbed Climbed 5.10.70
6 Consolation Peak f (18,600 ft.)
(near Deo Tibba)
Y.H.A. of Gujarat Two-member team Climbed 11.5.70
7 Mukar Beh (19,910 ft.)
(from Rai Ghar Gl.)
'Sophia Pk.’ (c. 19,469 ft.)
(in Kudy Gl.)
Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft.)
(from the west) Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.))
Jochi Univ., A.C. Ryujiro Kanda Attempted
1st ascent 17.9.70
Climbed 19.9.70
Climbed 7.10.70
GARHWAL
1 Jogin I (21,210 ft.)
Jogin III (20,065 ft.)
N.I.M., Uttar-kashi Lt.-Col. J. C. Joshi 1st ascent 22.6.70
2nd ascent 22.6.70
2 Jogin I (21,210 ft.)
Jogin II (20,208 ft.)
Indian A. Sen Attempted
3 ManaParbat (22,970 ft.) (in Gangotri region) Mountaineers' Club,
Calcutta
B. N. Raksbit Climbed 8.10.70
4 Bethartoii Himal (20,840 ft.) Climbers' Club, Bombay R.G.Desai Attempted;
Climbed
Bethartoii South
(20,730 ft.) 4.6,70
5 Trisul (23,360 ft.) Climbers' Club, Bombay— .
Ladies' Exp. .
Miss Meena Agrawal Climbed 4.6.70
6 Trisul (23,360 ft.) Indo-Tibet
Border Police
Exp.
Hukum Singh Climbed 10.7.70
7 Nanda Devi (25^645 ft.) Gujarat Sports Council N. Purohit Attempted
8 Nanda Khat Giri Vihar, Bombay A.R. Chandekar Attempted
9 Panch Chuli (22,650 ft.) N.C.C. Exp Hukum Singh Chanchal Mitra
BHUTAN
1 Chomolhari (23,997 ft.) ' Indo-Bhutanese Exp. Lt.-Col. N. Kumar 2nd ascent 23.4.70
NEPAL
1 Everest (20,028 ft.) Jap.Mt.Evere st Exp. Saburo Matsukata Climbed 11.5.70 and 12.5.70.
Also attempted
S-W face route
3 Lhotse Shar (27,504 ft.) TYROLIAN LHOTSE EXP., 1970 SIEGFRIED AEBERLI 1st ascent 12.5.70
4 Annapurna I (26,545 ft.) British-Nepalese
Army Annapurna Exp.
CAPT. HENRY DAY 2nd ascent 20.5.70 from the north
5 Annapurna I (26,545 ft.) British Annapurna
South Face Exp.
CHRIS BONINGTON 3RD ASCENT 27.5.70,
FIST UP THE SOUTH FACE .
6 Annapurna III (24,787 ft.) JAP. WOMEN'S
ANNAPURNA III EXP.
EIKO MAYAZAKI Climbed 19.5.70
7 Annapurna IV (24,688 ft.) KANSAI UNIV. A.C. MASAHIRO KAWAKITA Climbed 25.4.70
8 Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.)
Dhaulagiri VI (23,845 ft.)
KANSAI MOUNTAINEERING
CLUB
TETSUYA NOMURA Climbed 17.4.70
9 Churen Himal East Peak
(24,184 ft)
KOREAN A.C. KIM JUNG SUP. Climbed 29.4.70
10 Himal Chuli NE.Peak
(21,314 ft.)
NETHERLANDS
NEPAL EXP., 1970
J. A. Noordijk
(climbing leader J. F. Saltet)
Climbed 5.5.70,
6.5.70, 7.5.70 and
8.5.70 Climbed
11 fukche West JBeak
(22,244 ft)
WASEDA UNIV. HISAO YOSHIDA 30.4.70 1ST ASCENT
12 BUDDA (21,890 FT.) KEIO UNIV. YASUHIKO ISO 1st ascent 2.5.70
13 Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft.) DOSHISHA UNIV. TOKUFU OHTA 2nd ascent 20.10.70
14 Aannapurna South
(23,683 ft.)
CHAMONIX FRENCH EXP. GERARD DEVOUASSOUX 2ND ASCENT 27.10.70
(1ST ASCENT I BY
SOUTH FACE ROUTE)
15 PEAK 29 (DAKURA)
(24,652 FT.)
' OSAKA UNIV. SHOTARO MIZUNO 1st ascent 19.10.70
16 DHAULAGIRI IV (25,133 FT.)
DHAULAGIRI VI (23,845 FT.)
PK. 7,150 M. (C. 23,459 FT.)
(UNNAMED PEAK/ IN
THE AREA, LYING
BETWEEN 'JUNCTION PK.'
(7,108 M.) AND DHAULA VI)
FUKUOKA A.C. MICHIHIKO OGATA Attempted
2nd ascent 1.11.70 1st
ascent 25.10.70
17 PK. 21,978 FT.
(WEST OF THE FRENCH
COL IN THE HIDDEN \
VALLEY) (LOCAL NAME IS
SAID TO BE 'SITA CHUCHURA’)
NIPPON UNIV., A.C. Kiyoshi Seita 1st ascent 26.10.71
18 KANJIROBA (22,580 FT.)
HHMHNAMMIWMNBRIJ
OSAKA CITY UNIV. KAZUHISA JOHKEI 1st ascent of the South
Peak, which is the
highest in the Kanjiroba
Himal, 7.11.70
19 NAMPA HIMAL (22,162 FT.) MANCHESTER UNIV. JOHN ALLEN Attempted
20 Churen Himal (24,184 ft.) Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka Takashi Serizawa Climbed: Central Peak 24.10.70 and
26.10.70; West Peak
28.10.70 —all first ascents

 

*

The summiters H. Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering died on their way down from a fall between Camps V and IV. The mountaineering world has yet to lay down the law on the recognition of ascents where the summiters are involved in fatal accidents before reaching any of the team members—the French on Nanda Devi comes easily to mind. The Japanese in this instance would have a better case than the French who were never seen again. For full article see the present issue of the H.J.—ED.

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
KARAKORAM
1 NangaParbat (26,660 ft.) German Exp. K. Herrligkoffer Climbed by the Rupal Face
27.6.70 & 28 6.70
2 K-6 (23,890 ft.) Austrian Kara-koram
Exp.
E. Koblmuller Climbed 17.7.70
HINDU KUSH
1 Qazi Deft Valley
Asp-e-Safed I N (6,450 m.)
Noshaq (West and Main Pks.) (7,492 m.)
Rakh-e-Myani I (West) (Wala 91 c. 5,200 m.)
Rakh-e-Myani II (East) (Wala 92 c. 5,200 m.)
Asp-e-Safed I (6,450 m.),
II (c. 6,400 m.)l and
III ( (c. 6,380 m.) J Noshaq (West) (7,250 m.)
Kharposht-e- Yakhi (5,689 m.),
Osterreichisc he 5 H.K.
Exp., 1970
Gunther Virt Climbed 27.7.70
Climbed 15.8.70
1st ascent 19.8.70
Traversed from I to II (1st ascent)
19.8.70 Traverse of I-II-III 24.8.70
& 25.8.70. 1st ascent I of III
Climbed 20.8.70 Climbed 27.8.70
2 Kharposht-e-Yakhi (5,689 m.)
Noshaq (Main Pk.) (7,492 m.)
Tiroler H.K. Ski Exp.,
1970
R. Schulz Climbed 11.7.70 f Climbed 25.7.70
3 Mandaras Valley
Koh-e-Keshni- khan (C.
6,750 m.) Koh-e-Kalat (c.
5,600 m.) i
'Exploration -70'Ost.
Forschungs Exp.
R. De Grancy Climbed 11.8.70
Climbed 9.8.70
4 Chhap Darrah—Ishmurgh Valley Biomedizini sche H.K.
Exp., 1970
Roman Zink  
  Koh-e-Brendel (5,207 m.)
(South of Wala . 364)
    1st ascent2.9.70
  Koh-e-Larissa (6,157 m.)
(Wala 355)
    1st ascent 4.9.70 and 5.9.70
  Shir Kohl I (6,392 m.)
(Wala 354),
    3rd ascent (6.9.70)
  Shir Koh II (6,370 m.) and
Shir Koh III (6,135 m.)
Koh-e-Hevad (6,849 m.)
    5th ascent 9.9.70,
  Koh-e-Arusi-e-Nele
(6,124 m.)
    6th ascent 10.9.70
  Koh-e-Dusti (Main Pk.
6,435 m.)
    1st ascent 6.9.70
  Koh-e-Dusti (West Pk.
6,380 m.)
    1st ascent 11.9.70
4th ascent 11.9.70. First traverse
from West to East
5 Pegish Valle Prager Badhakshan Exp. Vaclav Lachout  
  Koh-e-Kabul (5,269 m.)
(near j Wala 302)
    1st ascent 19.7.70
  Koh-e-Praha j (5,420 m.) (near     1st ascent 27.7.70
  Wala 302) Pegish Zom I
(6,269 m.) (Wala 294)
    Climbed 26.7.70,
1.8.70 and 3.8.70
  Pegish Zom II (6,167 m.)
(Wala 305)
    Climbed 1.8.70
6 La Langar Valley
Langar Peaks
French H.K. Exp., 1970 D. Van De Velde Attempted, but climbed only the Forepeak (6,170 m.)
7 Mandaras Valley
Koh-e-Nadir i Shah (6,814 m. Gruber)
(Wala 137)
2nd Yugoslav
H.K. Exp., 1970
Lojze Steblaj Climbed 31.7.70 and 1.8.70
  M2 = Naser-e Khusrow
Tsuka (6,350 m.)
    Climbed 5.8.70
  Koh-e-Keshni- khan (C. 6,750 m.)     Climbed via M2 12.8.70 and
13.8.70
8 Darrah-e-Mulaw Valley
Koh-e-Kunj (5,752 rri.)
Marmar-Koh (5,620 m.)
Scottish H.K. Exp.,
1970
R. Alan North 1st ascent 9.8.70
1st ascent 9.8.70
  Koh-e-Crystal (5,700 m.)
Koh-e-Farda (5,420 m.)
Koh-e-Parrendah (5,637 m.)
Scottish H.K. Exp., 1970 R. Alan North 1st ascent 11.8.70.
1st ascent 11.8.70
1st ascent 15.8.70
  Arroos-Koh (5,555 m.)
Koh-e-Jumjum- ma (5,430 m.)
Koh-e-Sassi (5,316 m.)
Shak-e-Kabud (6,190 m.)
Pk. 5,590 m.
    1st ascent 15.8.70
1st ascent and traverse 17.8.70
1st ascent 20.8.70
2nd ascent 22.8.70
2nd ascent 23.8.70
9 Darrah-e-Mulaw Valley
Koh-e-Mulaw (5,750 m.)
Koh-e-Barf (5,870 m.)
(5,797 m. on Frey’s map)
Koh-e-Cousin (5,790 m.)
(5,751m. on Frey’s map)
Shak-e-Kabud (6,190 m.)
Tur London (5,752 m.)
Akita H.K. Exp., 1970 Kenji Hirasawa 1st ascent 29.7.70
1st ascent 1.8.70
1st ascent 3.8.70
Attempted
Attempted
10 Darrah-e-Pinawi
Pk. 5,753 m. (north)
Pk. 5,800 m.
Pk. 5,900 m.
Pk. 5,753 m. (south)
Pk. 5,635 m.
Ohtsu A.C.,
Shiga Prefecture Exp., 1970
Yoshitada Kiuchi 1st ascent 12.7.70
1st ascent 22.7.70
1st ascent 22.7.70
Attempted
Attempted
11 Darrah-e-Buyso- wuk
Pk. 5,050 m.
Pk. 5,304 m.
Pk. 5,370 m.
Pk. 5,255 m.
Gamagoori
Yama no Kai, 1 Aichi
Prefec- 1 ture Exp., 1970
Tsukasa Nakase 1st ascent 16.7.70
1st ascent 21.7.70
1st ascent 22.7.70
1st ascent 24.7.70
  Darrah-e-Paghar
Koh-e-Paghar (5,606 m.)
Paghar East (5,550 m.)
Pk. 5,414 m.
1st ascent 30.7.70
1st ascent 25.7.70
1st ascent 30.7.70
   
12 Koh-e-Bandaka (6,843 m.) Nagasaki Univ.
Bandaka Exp., j 1970
Yoshinori Ichise Climbed 14.8.70
13 West Parun Valley Pk. 5,740 m.
' ('Parun Spear')
Mt. YariHuty Party, 1970 Minoru Murata Climbed 30.6.70
  Pk. 5,611 m.
Pk. 5,510 m.
Pk. 5,375 m.
Pk. 5,515 m.
Pk. 5,420 m.
SE. of Bandaka
Pk. 5,907 m. ('Zerago Peak')
    Climbed 2.7.70
Climbed 2.7.70
Climbed 3.7.70
Climbed 5.7.70
Climbed 1 5.7.70
1st ascent 17.7.70
14 Mir Samir (5,809m.) (a) Chukyo A.C.
(b) Meijo Univ
(a) Shigeo Handa
(b) Kohtaro Ohyama
(SEE ALSO item 25)
Climbed 21.7.70
15 Dir Gol
Malgiri Zom I (5,579 m.)
Malgiri Zom II (5,550 m.)
Malgiri Zom III (5,520 m.)
Tirich Mir (7,706 m.)
Tiroler H.K. Exp., 1970 Kurt Pittracher Climbed 21.7.70
1st ascent 21.7.70
1st ascent 21.7.70
Attempted via S. Glacier Pk.
16 Tirich Mir (East) Deutsche H.K. Exp., 1970 S. Rausch attempted by SE. Spur
17 Darban Valley
M 8 (6,530 m.)
Marianne Zom (6,390 m.)
(Wala 119)
Spedizione Comasca
'Pakistan 70'
Reno Zocchi 1st ascent 18.7.70
Climbed 11.7.70
18 Upper Tirich Glacier
Ghul Lasht Zom East (6,611 m.)
Ghul Lasht Zom South (c. 6,400 m.)
Dertona Peak (6,100 m.)
Peak on SW. ridge of
Istor- o-Nal (probably West I)
Exp. Sektion
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
/ and Sektion
Munich of D.A.V.
  Climbed 21.8.70
Climbed 21.8.70
Climbed 20.8.70
Climbed 30.8.70
19 Kotgaz Glacier
Noghor Zom (5,935 m.) (Wal£ 278)
Pegish Zom II (6,167 m.)
Yokohama San- ryokai
H.K. Exp., 1970
Miki Yanagishima Climbed 25.7.70
Climbed 1.8.70
20 Hindu Raj Bashkargolo Zom
(5,400 m.) shporili Zom (c. 5,900 m.)
H.R. Exp. of Keio Univ. Takeshi Funaki 2nd ascent 6.8.70
Attempted
21 Thui I (6,660 m.) Pk.
4,850 m. (west side ;
Panarilio Gl.) j
Unpyo Club H.R. Exp., 1970 Takaaki Asaga Attempted Climbed 14.7.70
22 Rinzho Gel
Pk. 5,100 m. ('Ajudi Zom')
Pk. 5,500 m. ('Aldokh Zom')
Gordoghan Gol
Gordoghan Zom (6,240 m.)
Sohnyoan Glacier
Sohnyoan Zom (5,625 m.)
Todorei Party H.R. Exp., 1970 Chuji Sato 1st ascent 14.7.70
1st ascent 17.7.70
The highest point reached 27.7.70
by this team and the Hosei
Univ. Exp 1968 was the shoulder
of the peak. 1968 momenta
found by this Exp.
Climbed 2.8.70
23 Buni Zom South
Shupel Zom East (5,923 m.)
Pk. 5,265 m.
Chiba Univ. of Tech.
Exp., j 1970
Ken Kariyama 1st ascent 1.8.70
1st ascent 5.8.70
24 Manali Glacier
Pk. 5,020 m.
Pk. 5,550 m.
H.K. Exp. of OAV JGM
Bregenz OAV
Heinz Koors Climbed 20.8.70
Climbed 25.8.70
25 Swat Kobistan
Falak Sar 1 (5,918 m.)
Meijo Univ. Party, 1970 Kohtaro Ohyama Climbed 19.8.70
26 Upper Gabral Valley
Piers II (c. 5,500 m.)
(5,334 m. acc. to N.K.
Exp. 1968;
Gifu Mount.
Assoc. Exp., 1970
Masaru Tsuzuki 1st ascent 21.6.70
27 Exploration of Buni
Zom area Laspur Valley,
Thalo An, Manali An,
Badwal An to Chitral via
Kalkot, Dir and Lowarai Pass
Toyama Ladies'
Reconn. Exp., 1970
Tomoko Arimoto  

 

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