THE FIRST ASCENT OF MOUNT PARVATI, 1968

MARINO TREMONTI

[The Tremonti Expedition to Punjab Himalaya, sponsored by Societa Alpina Friulana—Udine Section of Club Alpino Italiano].

On 10 June I had the luck to reach, together with all the members of our party, one of Kulu Valley's most desired summits—Pk. 21,760 feet (6,633 m.)—which in honour of the goddess of the valley was named ‘Mount Parvati’

The group, in addition to myself, consisted of my good friends and Alpine guides Ferdinando Gaspard and Armando Perron of Valtournanche and Claudio Zardini and Lorenzo Lorenzi of Cortina d'Ampezzo. But in every Himalayan expedition the mountaineers are not the only ones to be considered, for there are others who also contribute effectively to its success ; so I wish to mention here some of those who gave us considerable help. Besides the President of the Societa Alpina Friulana (Udine Section of CAI), the President of Roman Delegation of CAI, Dr. Datti, the Italian Foreign Ministry, the Italian Embassy in Delhi, especially the Indian Foreign Ministry, the Indian Embassy in Rome, the District Commissioner of Kulu, the President and the Honorary Secretary of Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Mr. H. C. Sarin and Mr. R. M. Chakravarty, and the very good friend Comdr. M. S. Kohli—leader of the successful 1965 Indian expedition to Everest; to all, hearty thanks and so also to Air- India and their very kind and efficient staff in Rome and Delhi for their valuable support in every circumstance so that we always felt ourselves surrounded by friends ; and finally I remember all the people we met on the trip, who on all occasions displayed great hospitality and made our stay among them most agreeable.

We left Italy on 20 May and on the 28th marched from Bhuntar in the Beas Valley up the Parbati Valley with 16 mules, 9 quintals of baggages, 3 Sherpas and a shikari (the last named not being really necessary, as we discovered later and who turned out quite expensive as he required a personal porter!).

We halted at Kasol and Pulga, and on the 31st the luggage passed on the backs of 46 porters (the porters here do not carry more than 20 or 22 kg.). Nights were spent at Kirganga and at Tundabuj, and on 2 June we crossed the Parbati river over a snow bridge and entered the Dibibokri Nala, in the very middle of a snow-storm ; the main" body of the porters put down their loads on a small pasture about an hour away from the place where we intended to put our Base Camp. We were able, never¬theless, to keep four porters with us for a further day and with their help, after many trips to and fro, we established the Base Camp at about 4,000 metres at a place where, seven years before, friends of the Rome Section of the Club Alpino Italiano had camped.³

The Dibibokri Nala branches out in four subsidiary valleys, occupied by as many glaciers: first, beginning from left going up is the west glacier and there two peaks which have been climbed up till now: Rubal Kang (6,150 m.) by Snelson in 1952, and the very difficult and superb Lai Quila (6,340 m.) by Aletto and De Riso of the Consiglio Expedition of 1961. The second is No. 2 glacier and from this Consiglio reconnoitred the west ridge of our peak but found it impossible ; in this basin they had reached three cols. The third is the Main glacier at the head of which was our peak, and in this basin none of the peaks had been climbed but three cols had been reached. The fourth and last is the Ratiruni glacier and in this valley Snelson had climbed in 1952 a peak of 5,852 metres.

About our objective, the highest peak of the Kulu-Lahul water¬shed, we knew only this:

1. Roberts says: Later in that holiday we went up the Parbati and looked at Peaks 21,760 feet (6,633 m.) and 21,350 feet (6,507 m.), but neither seemed safely climbable from the Kulu side/ (AJ., Vol. 53, p. 324.)
2. Snelson wrote: ' The Main glacier was formed by the union of two branches beneath a most frightening rock wall which rose the summits of Peak 21,760 feet (6,633 m.), the Dibibokri Pyramid (c. 21,000 ft.= 6,400 m.), and Peak 21,350 feet (6,507 m.), all without a hope of a route to their tops.' (H.J., Vol. XVIII, 1954, p. 112.)
3. Holmes in 1956 crossed a col south of the Dibibokri Pyramid, descending with great difficulty, took a photo of our peak, but he does not consider the possibilities of a future ascent of it.
4. In 1961 the expedition of the Rome section of the Club Alpino Italiano was the first to attempt the peak, by its west ridge, but Consiglio considered it impossible. (R.M. CAI, 1962, p. 339). (H.J., Vol XXIV, 1962-63, p. 87.)
5. Pettigrew, who is best acquainted with this area, published facing p. 79 of A.J., Vol. 70, No. 310, a photo of the north side of Peak 21,760 feet (6,633 m.)9 and after some considerations judged the east and west ridges more accessible than the faces, but an attempt on it from either end would require a strong party with sustained support and, most advisedly, an expert in logistics'.

 

This was our sum knowledge, and we decided to try the climb¬ing by the south to a col of one of the two ridges but, lacking in more exact information, we had to go and have a look for ourselves.

Without losing much time, on 4 June, in the mist, we put up our Camp I on a moraine island at the beginning of the Main glacier at 4,600 metres. While the Sherpas went down to Base Camp for further transportations, we got ready to continue the advance and next day, going up the Main glacier beyond the big bend until just below our mountain, we pitched Camp II at 5,100 metres, well away from any faces that might discharge avalanches. We now realized that our peak was very high and, as we yet thought, it would be necessary to have a third camp.

We rejected the left side of the south slope which we had hoped would be more easy but now saw would be exposed to avalanches. We then decided to try on the right side to reach the north col of the Dibibokri Pyramid, to put a Camp III and then to traverse along the very long ridge that goes to the east shoulder.

We returned to Camp I the same day, and on 6 June went down to Base Camp for our final preparations, while Sherpas carried loads to Camp II.

We now considered this as the moment for a resolute attack. On 7 June, in good weather, we climbed to Camp I; on the 8th to Camp II, and next day we pitched Camp III on the Dibibokri Col (5,950 m.), above a steep wall of patches of snow and dangerous rocks (if we had equipped this route to make it safe for loaded Sherpas we would have lost much time). The col is narrow and heavily corniced on the Parahio side, and very steep also on the Main glacier side. We put up two very small tents.

At 4 a.m. on Monday, 10 June, we started along a broad ridge that led to the east shoulder; after leaving the rocks at Camp III we were to be on snow and ice for the rest of the way.

The hanging glacier of the east shoulder is cut by two large crevasses. We got over the first on the right, cutting steps in the bare ice ; turning to the west, the second crevasse was reached and overcome on the left, and finally we got to the main ridge that runs from the shoulder to the summit. The part from the second crevasse to the ridge was more difficult and dangerous than anything we had experienced below ; on very steep ice is a layer of unstable snow; delicate step cutting (2 pitons) in equilibrium above 1,400 metres of wall. The ridge which is long, steep and narrow with a cornice on the north side (so we keep to the Main glacier side) was crossed with difficulty and finally it culminated at the summit that we reached at 12.30 p.m. The tension of hours of effort came to an end, in a little hollow dug out of the steep southern slope we shook hands. We were all emotionally moved and happy. The eyes of hard Gaspard became wet: he recalled that 55 years ago his father and Piacenza were the first to climb Kun (7,096 m.) in the Kashmir Himalaya. I say a few words to remind us that our moment of triumph is the result of the combined efforts of all five of us.

The view is spoiled by clouds and thick mist towards the west and north, but towards the south the enchanting brilliance of the Parbati ice peaks, and eastwards the monotonous, endless succession of ridges of Spiti (mountains that all seem composed equally of oblique layers of black rocks and white snow), present a fantastic picture. In front of us is the mighty Dibibokri Pyramid ; 1,450 metres below are the tents of Camp II on the snowy Main glacier. We are on the highest peak of the valley, we feel as if we are really on goddess Parvati's throne; but the stay cannot continue: at 2 p.m. we begin the descent; the snow on the steep ridge is always unreliable; two safety rappels bring us again to the upper crevasse, where we had a rest, and, at 7 p.m. when it was already dark, we were all back at Camp III.

On 11 June we awoke among the ice-embroideries that enamel the inside of our tents ; removed the camp, in the mist; taking advantage also of three 90 metres rappels, across the rock and ice wall we go down to the snowy plateau of the Main glacier and to Camp II, where we are welcomed by the smiling and happy Sherpas, who in the meantime had continued to supply the higher camps with provision against the eventuality of our first attempt failing.

After a clear sunset the weather grows worse in the night, and next day it is snowing and cold. The 13 June brings wonderful weather, but now the mountain reminds us of its power- a roar wakes us at 7.30—an avalanche, perhaps two kilometres wide, has swept the south wall (which was not on our route), but we can see that on the ridge our footsteps have disappeared as a result of the previous day's snow-slide. We consider that we have climbed at the right moment, for any delay would have confronted us with impossible conditions. Perron's comment is 'La chance a la canaille!' and mine more aulic ‘Audentibus fortuna iuvat'.

We go down at Camp I, and in the evening, after much wandering to find our way across the glacial streams now in flood, to Base Camp.

The Sherpas then dismantled the high camps and on Monday, the 17th, 25 porters came up to transport the baggage. Return down the valley; through flowery pastures, shady forests, pictur-esque villages and luxuriant meadows was like a trip in an earthly paradise. Then the dusty road began, and everything changed. On 20 June we were at Bhuntar and on the 30th we arrived home.

In retrospect it seems there had been no efforts, dangers, troubles ; we remember only the deep satisfaction that followed the attainment of the summit we had longed for; but suddenly the memory veils itself in melancholy; that beautiful moment has lasted an instant, now it is nothing!

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