SOUTHWATERSHED OF THE AFGHAN HINDU KUSH, 1967-70

JACK DOZIER (A.A.C.)

THROUGHOUT the four summer months, the south-flowing water- shed of the Afghan Hindu Kush universally enjoys warm windless, precipitation-free days. Climbers seeking 6,000-metre peaks on a tight vacation schedule can confidently budget their assault time without allowing the 50 per cent weather leeway advisable in the Himalayas and Karakoram, and without facing the ridiculous gauntlet involved in the Pakistan Kush where the entry permit is issued or denied at the Chitral boundary (after the expedition has travelled 8,000 miles in anxious trepidation)

During precise 28-day periods (low air excursion fare time limits) in the June to September months of 1967, 1968, 1969 and 1970, I have led successive expeditions of six to ten Americans into that portion of the Afghan Hindu Kush lying on or south of the Indus – Oxus devide, and adjacent to the Afghan-Pakistan boundary.

The access is by motor from Kabul (after clearance of the necessary Nuristan entry permits through Afghan Tourist Organization, Kabul, who also process the required mountaineering permit by mail.

Walking commences at the roadheads on the Pech or Basheal rivers. The Pech roadhead is only 4,200 feet and the porters are weak slow and lazy. Bargimatal, the roadhead on the Bashgal lies at 6,000 feet, the porters are good, and higher up (at the 10,000-foot level villages of Loluk and Pacygramon the westward tributary, Skouri Oul-also called Pragh) the porters arestrong and willing to go on moderate ice to 18,000 feet

The snowline is near 16,000 feet, high trails are plentiful, and forests and green valleys are a delightful contrast to the parched environment found north of the Indus-Oxus divide The sixthousanders have been climbed one or more times (by Europeans driving overland to the
Kush). But scores of first ascent? are available at the 5,500-metre level.

Unlimited amounts of unleavened bread are available at the villages and small quantities of chickens, eggs, goats and mutton may be purchased. All staples and most civilized foodstuffs are on hand at Kabul, but high-altitude freeze-dried items must be brought along on the plane (small tariff on food imports, none on climbing gear).

Afghanistan

[Reprinted from Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal II by W. Frey]

1. KOTAL ANJUMAN, 4,400 M.
2. KOTAL PIW, 4,700 M.
3. KOTAL RAMGUL, 4,700 M.
4. KOTAL KULAM
5. KOTAL WERAN, 4,700 M.
6. KOTAL SUDRIMBIDA
7. KOTAL PUTSIGRAM, 4,850 M.
8. KOTAL PARSHUI, 5,150 M.
9. KOTAL TOGHW
10. KOTAL MONDAL, 4,950 M.
11. KOTAL DORA, 4,510 M.
12. MACH AN, AC. 5,000 M.
13. LUTKHO AN
14. KOTAL MUNJAM, 3,950 M.

The faces and ridges are granitic at intervals, but 90 per cent of the climbing is on moderately solidified metamorphic rock, particularly suitable for nuts and slings. The brilliant sun is bothersome at lower altitudes and at times creates large areas of extremely tiring nieves penitentes, as well as softening the ice slopes during the afternoons (without, however, creating numerous avalanches, or extreme rock-fall).

In 1967 we failed in a weak effort to scale the unclimbed north face of Koh-e-Tundy (20,100 ft.) (6,121 m.). This face comprising 4,500 vertical feet of high-angle snow and ice is probably the finest ice climb in the area. Returning in 1968 we quite easily made the second ascent of Koh-e-Tundy, via, the unclimbed south face from near the village of Pacygram. The route is varied rock, ice and snow but never more difficult than moderate class IV. Arriving in the summit well burdened with 120 kilogrammes of camera equipment, we made the first synchronized sound movie of high-ailtitude climbing, which appeared as a one-hour documentary on national television in the U.S., viewed by 23,000,000 persons and fondly received by the fast-growing cult of backpackers and climbers in the States.

An ambitious combination of hiking and climbing in 1969 led us up the Pech to Ishtivi, quarrelling all the way with the weakest porters in Asia. From Ishtivi the alleged climbers, led by me and composed of McKinley summitman Les Wilson, Himalayan veteran Ray Jewell, and two returnees from the prior climb of Koh-e-Tundy, went over the unknown Kotal (Pass) Putsigram (16,000 ft.) (4,850 m.) direct to Pacygram on the Skouri Oul for an attempt on the once-climbed Koh-e-Marchech (21,000 ft.) (6,435 m.). Moving fast (too fast) to the 18,000-foot col between Marchech and the precipitous Shakh-e-Kabud (21,000 ft.) (6,400 m.) the gay climb was brought to a sobering end by the sudden onset of acute pulmonary edema in Ray Jewell (from slight nausea at dinner to a blue coma at dawn). All turned to in a hurried evacuation featured by long solitary carries down 4,000 feet of ice and talus by Les Wilson and Perry Mann.

The ' hikers' in 1969 took the easy pass, Kotal Weran (15,000 ft.) (4,700 m.) into the Munjan river, down the Munjan through dusty villages then by trail over Kotal Parshui (17,000 ft.) (5,150 m.) towards Pacygram. Four of these inexperienced men, led by George Barnwell, made a startling second ascent of Koh-e-Parshui (19,400 ft.) to the south of the Pass, and then descended through the dark night without parkas or good sense, recognizing crevasses when the lead man, groping through the black, fell in and thus tautened the rope. After four hours' sleep, Barnwell was up again at dawn to make a solo first ascent of Peak 5,585 metres (18,324 ft.), a rock scramble immediately north of Kotal Parshui.

Once again, primed with television camera and sound equipment, we returned in 1970 to lay siege to Koh-e-Marchech (21,000 ft.) (6,435 m.). A steady ascent to the west col at 18,000 feet was accomplished by eight sturdy porters from Loluk and Pacygram villages. From there the climbers shouldered the heavy loads and went up the moderate class V north-west ridge. A sleepless night's bivouac at 19,000 feet eliminated the older men at the 20,000-foot mark the following day, but the younger men climbing on one rope, comprised Jeff Dozier (leader), Carl Smith, Perry Mann and Glen Denny, pressed on. Carrying over 50 kilogrammes of camera gear, and climbing without oxygen, fuel, tents or sleeping-bags, the four men bivouacked at 20,500 feet en route to the summit. Reaching the top the following afternoon (3 August) on steep rock and final severe ice ridge, the quartet descended to the same bivouac and suffered through a cold and thirsty night. The next day the dehydrated men rapelled with care and increasing lethargy down the north-west ridge to a joyful rendezvous at 19,500 feet with expedition leader Jack Dozier climbing solo in a forlorn effort to alleviate what was feared to be a catastrophe. The summitmen, rejuvenated with California orange juice, scampered down 89000 feet the next day to be met by congratulatory villagers playing welcome drums and offering barbecued goat and delicious cheese.

Shakh-e-Kabud (6,400 m.) North east face

Koh-e-Marchech (6,435 m.) North West shoulder

Koh-e-Tundy (6,121 m.) North face

Kon-e-Tundy (6,121 m.) South east face

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