LADIES' LAHOUL EXPEDITION, 1970

[Reprinted by kind permission of the Himavanta and with additional geological notes by the author.]

MISS SUDIPTA SEN GUPTA

THE expedition was organized by Pathikrit of Room 3, Block II, Rabindra Sarobar Stadium, Calcutta 29, to an unnamed virgin peak, 20,130 feet (6,136 m.), subsequently named by us as Lalana. The location of the peak is 32° 14' 5" N. and 77° 33' 20" E. in Lahoul region of Himachal Pradesh near its border with Spiti. Mrs. Sujaya Guha was selected leader. Other members were Miss Kamaia Saha (Quartermaster), Miss Nilu Ghosh (Manager), Miss Shefali Chakraborty (Transport-in-Charge), Dr. Purnima Sharma, and I was the deputy leader.

We left Howrah on 25 July and reached Manali at 9 p.m. on 29 July. It was an unearthly hour, more so, for an all ladies' team. After much deliberations we decided to spend the night in the bus which brought us from Simla. We had to camp at Manali for five days to finalize the arrangements, i.e. to select porters and muleteers, collect climbing equipment and accessories and purchase cereals and a few odd things. We hired 15 mules at Rs.40 each from Manali to Base Camp. We also selected 8 porters including 6 high altitude ones.

On 5 August we left Manali by a one-ton truck and reached Gramphu, on the other side of Rohtang Pass, at 2 p.m. On the following day we trekked 10| miles to Chhatru, 10,800 feet (3,292 m.), and on 7 August we reached Chhota Dara, 12,100 feet (3,688 m.). On 8 August we crossed Chandra river by a rope bridge (jhoola) and it was an unique experience. A steel rope was fixed on pillars on either banks. A cage with a long rope on its far side was suspended from wheels supported by the steel rope. One by one we crossed the Chandra river by the cage and established our Base Camp, 12,700 feet (3,871 m.). To avoid the rope bridge, the mules had to make a long detour via Batal and could not reach Base Camp on the same day. We therefore bivouacked under the open sky.

The camp was NNE of the snout of the Bara Shigri glacier. The glaciers of this area are of dentric type. Several ice caves have formed above the main snout. Melted snow trickled down from these newly formed ice caves to join the main stream through subterranean channels. The glacier was covered with an enormous expanse of moraine Uttered with boulders ranging from tiny pebbles to massive stones, 25 feet (8 m.) high.

Bara Shigri in Spiti language literally means a glacier covered with a thick layer of boulders, so much so that ice is not visible except along the crevasses and in the ablation areas. The boulders are mainly composed of granite gneiss and mica schist with sprinklings of conglomerate quartzite and slate. Constant cracklings and formation of long fissures with bluish ice lent an eerie touch to an otherwise serene atmosphere.

North of our Base Camp there were several conically shaped hillocks of boulders and sand, possibly remnants of an ancient terminal moraine. South of our Base Camp there was a rock exposure of alternate mica schist and quartzose mica schist, in which numerous interesting structural features like boundinage and small-scale buckling folds were visible. The wind was strong and generally blew from NW to SE carrying dust and small particles with it. This was quite a nuisance.

On 9 August, Sujayadi, ⁴ Kamala and myself along with Gyalchhen and Palgoon reconnoitred the area and selected the site for our Advance Base Camp No. 1 at 13,100 feet (3,993 m.) on the Bara Shigri glacier near its junction with the first feeder glacier coming down from the west. Next day the porters went up with loads to dump them at the camp site, and we busied ourselves in repacking food and equipments for higher camps.

It started raining on 11 August, and the weather gradually turned worse. Yet we moved on to Advance Base Camp No. 1. Next day Sujayadi, Kamala, Shefali and myself established Advance Base Camp No. 2 at 13,700 feet (4,176 m.) on Lalana (second feeder) glacier, which came down from Lalana Peak on the west, to join the Bara Shigri glacier. Bad weather and constant rock falls kept us confined in this camp for two days.

15 August was no holiday for us. ⁵ Four porters dumped loads at the site of Camp I, 16,100 feet (4,907 m.), up on the Lalana glacier. On their way back Tchering was hit by a falling ice slab. Although his injury was not serious, he had a nervous breakdown and had to be sent back to Manali after first aid.

On 16 August, Nilu and Purnima came to Advance Base Camp No. 2 and Sujayadi and Kamala went up to Camp I. I joined them on the following day. On the way to Camp I we climbed up a scree wall, a sheer rise of 1,312 feet (400 m.) which led to the snout of the Lalana glacier. The upper layer of the snout was advancing more rapidly than its lower layer. The speed increased progressively from the top downwards till the firm limit, but decreased gradually thereafter. In Bara Shigri glacier, however, the reverse was the case—the bottom moved faster than the top. Possibly the thick mantle of moraine on the upper surface prevented it from keeping pace with the bottom layer.

The stream which originated from the Lalana glacier disappeared under the Bara Shigri glacier, only to reappear from its snout.

The Lalana glacier had a steep gradient and at 15,422 feet (4,700 m.) there was a wide vertical ice wall which we overcame by fixing a 200-foot (61 m.) fixed rope. Then we traversed a 70° slope, cutting steps occasionally. The going was a bit tough with knee-deep fresh snow at places where the gradient was easier. The fresh snow was the result of the previous day's bad weather.

 

On 18 August we set out from Camp I on two ropes, to establish Camp II. A straight route would have been shorter but the crevasses were formidable. We therefore moved NW at first and then turned south through a route criss-crossed with crevasses. The wide crevasses were visible and therefore safe. But the tiny ones were covered with snow and treacherous. The longitudinal crevasses were more common in Bara Shigri, whereas in Lalana the transverse crevasses were more frequent. In many cases the transverse crevasses formed into a crescent shape, the concave side facing the snout. The middle of the valley glaciers moved faster than the margins, where friction with the walls set up couples, resulting in tension-cracks or crevasses. In the Lalana glacier the crevasses were more frequent where the gradient was steep. Crescent crevasses were formed when two sets of crevasses inter¬sected each other. We also came across several ice scarps, probably formed by faulting of either lip along the plane of a crevasse. Moreover, cornices along an ice wall posed another problem and we had to watch our steps.

Finding no suitable spot, we set up our Camp II at 17,000 feet (5,181 m.) in between two monstrous crevasses, a corridor barely adequate for the width of a two-man tent. We pitched two tents facing each other and dared not emerge out of them without tying up ourselves. The site was at the northern end of the rock wall which stood in between Lalana and another feeder glacier further south.

On 19 August we went out to set up our Camp III which was going to be our assault camp. On the way I broke into a snow-covered crevasse. Dangling on the rope I could guess rather than see the bottomless pit, dark and menacing, staring up at me. Fortunately, my rucksack got stuck and I was pulled up by Sujayadi and Gyalchhen. It was knee-deep snow all around and the route was full of seracs and crevasses. Melting of confused intersecting crevasses caused ice seracs to stand like pillars. Seracs were formed by splitting of the glacier surface into cliffs of different sizes with solar heat to mould them. This was clear from the prominent seasonal beddings seen on the seracs.

We established Camp III at 18,000 feet (5,486 m.) by the side of a big ice scarp ENE of the peak. The prominent layers of the scarp were clearly visible like a sedimentary rock with minor faults. The bedded structure of the glacier ice was due to ablation and deposition or concentration of silt in layers within the ice. These bands were mostly horizontal with a few exceptions of slanting dips and gentle undulations. On our south there was a rocky ridge running from east to west. On our west was a rocky exposure with a NE trend, covered with snow at places.

At night it started snowing, aggravated by lashing winds. In the morning we found that the fresh snow was a foot deep. On the 20th we stayed inside the tents and Gyalchhen and Pasang went out to have a look around.

On 21 August Sujayadi woke up at 1 a.m. Tea and cashew- nuts were served at 2 a.m. At 4 a.m. we left Camp III on two ropes for the final assault. Gyalchhen, myself and Sujayadi were on the first rope. Palgoon and Kamala were on the second. Pasang went ahead of us without any rope. We moved up SW to gain the summit ridge along not too steep a slope, though the snow was knee-deep as usual. At 5.30 a.m. we were confronted with a steep ice face with exposed hard ice, which was also an avalanche point. At 18,373 feet (5,600 m.) we found exposed rocks of granite bordering the glacier, and selected a route in between the two. The gradient was as steep as 70°. We had to use fixed ropes and negotiate rock and ice at the same time. The crampons, which were essential on ice, turned into a liability on rocks. At frequent intervals we had to do rock-climbing.

The weather was however ideal, neither too sunny nor very cloudy. The wind was not punitive either. We maintained quite a good pace and gained the summit ridge. Now we turned west and took the eastern face of the peak. When barely 500 feet (152 m.) below the summit we found that all the five lengths of fixed ropes we had, had been used up. We then resorted to belaying each other. The gradient was quite steep with knee-deep snow dotted with huge boulders.

About 10 feet (3 m.) below the summit we waited on a rock for a few minutes. Then we all went up together and stood on the summit of Lalana, 20,130 feet (6,130m.), with reverence at 10.30 a.m. In all-embracing peace and calm we paid our homage to the Himalayas and knelt down to say our prayers. Then a spontaneous outburst of joy broke the stillness. We pitched our flag and offered Khada (ceremonial Tibetan scarf), chocolates and fruit juice to the summit. On a piece of paper we wrote down our names, placed it inside a water bottle and tied it to a boulder.

What a breath-taking spectacle was before us ! An endless sea of peaks with glistening ice-capped crowns was proudly jutting into the azure sky. From the crowned peaks ran down the glaciers like flowing white robes with spotted patterns, made up of crevasses.

The SW ridge of Lalana bent low and then went up again to a dome-shaped peak, 20,554 feet (6,265 m.). The ridge was sharp as a razor s edge and technically difficult to negotiate. The drop was about 656 feet (200 m.) leading to a neve, which probably feeds Lalana glacier with ice. On the west of the dome, a col was clearly visible. The south ridge of Lalana was rocky and near- vertical, from which ran down a tiny glacier to meet the fourth feeder glacier of Bara Shigri.

We spent 90 momentous minutes on the summit and started climbing down at midday. The way down was far more difficult than the way up, specially because we had no fixed rope left for the final stages. It seemed to be a long dreary and cheerless ramble. At times we wondered whether this was the route which had led us to the summit. Probably the thrill and excitement of success made all this difference.

We recovered our fixed ropes and rapelled down one by one. We left two ropes, one karabiner and three ice pitons on the summit ridge. We, however, brought down three ropes and used them again on the steep ice face with exposed rocks, which was an avalanche point. We finally reached Camp III at 5 p.m.

On 22 August, Sujayadi sank into a crevasse while on her way to Camp II. Kamala, Gyalchhen and myself were on the same rope and Sujayadi was promptly rescued. The same evening we reached Advance Base Camp No. 2, where the three other members were anxiously waiting for us. We now joined them for another round of jubilation.

On 23 August, we returned to Base Camp and arranged a grand camp-fire. Next morning Lama Tashi was deputed to get mules from Batal, only eight miles (13 km.) away. But he did not return in the evening, nor the following evening. Funds and provisions were running out with the passing of each day. Desperately long¬ing to return home after a hard-earned success, we embarked on a plan to get the mules positively on 26 August. Sujayadi, Kamala and Shefali, all in yellow windproofs, along with Gyalchhen and Pasang left Base Camp at 9 a.m. for Batal. Nilu, Dr. Sharma and myself were asked to keep everything packed up and ready. We saw them disappear behind the ridge one by one, and that was the last we saw of Sujayadi and Kamala. What transpired afterwards, I gathered from Shefali.

At about 12.30 p.m. they reached Karcha nala, seven miles (11 km.) from our Base Camp. Pasang and Gyalchhen crossed the nala with great difficulty. They told the girls not to cross it, but wait for their return from Batal, which was visible barely a mile (1-5 km.) away. The three members waited for 45 minutes. Then they thought of making an attempt to cross it. Hand in hand they stepped into the water, Sujayadi leading as usual, Kamala behind her and Shefali at the end. The only ice-axe which Shefali was carrying slipped from her hands. She herself slipped immediately thereafter and was carried away by the swirling waters. Before losing consciousness she saw the other two standing in the water and Sujayadi shouting 6 ice-axe, ice-axe Shefali recovered to find herself stuck between boulders close to the bank and about 50 feet (15 m.) from the site of the accident. She pulled herself out of the water and looked around for the other two. But they could not be seen anywhere. She shouted at the top of her voice. But there was no response. Dazed by pain and mental agony she made for the Base Camp.

Meanwhile the high-altitude porters while recrossing the nala on mule-backs saw a windproof slightly above the water. They jumped off the mules and dashed to the spot, which was very close to the site of the accident. They found the body of our leader Sujayadi. Gyalchhen raced to Base Camp at 6.30 p.m. to break the tragic news. We wanted to rush to the scene but were prevented by the porters, as it was already getting dark. Pasang was already there, searching for Kamala and four porters now went down to join him. They returned at 8.30 p.m. with Shefali only. So three porters were sent again, who came back at 2.30 a.m. without any trace of Kamala.

Thus ended tragically our successful expedition. The enormity of our loss made us incapable of savouring our success. Sujayadi died on her beloved mountains and was cremated at Stindri, two miles (3 km.) beyond Keylang. It was revealed from her post¬mortem report that she had died of ‘immediate heart-failure due to shock'. She was neither drowned nor had a scratch, not to speak of any injury. The shock of being a helpless spectator to what she thought was sure death of two of her beloved comrades was too much even for a stout heart as hers. Both of them will live for ever in our hearts and continue to inspire us.

[Sujaya Guha was the wife of Kamal Kumar Guha a member of the Committee to whom goes our most heartfelt condolences—ED.].

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