BEYOND THE ROHTANG

DAN TAYLOR

OUR light expedition into Lahul in the summer of 1965 started with greater aims than we achieved. [Originally, we had hoped for several more climbers.] We had wanted to climb the peaks around the Bara Shigri Glacier, particularly those on the west, but permission for this area was refused. However, we were permitted to go to the Chota Shigri Glacier. In spite of early difficulties, we climbed two of the principal summits of the Chota Shigri and three rock pinnacles, all previously unclimbed.

Beyond the Rohtang Pass, my climbing partner, Sohan Singh, and I jeeped east to Chettru Village. The jeep road crosses there to the north side of the Chandra River, while we had to follow the south bank, a day's trek to the Chota Shigri. In crossing the torrent of the Humpta ford, one of our porters was swept off his feet. I was barely able to reach him but together we struggled to the bank. At this point, our Kangra porters left us, but we were able to find Tibetan refugees for the rest of the carry. The trek to Base Camp crosses five glacial streams that have either to be forded or crossed by detouring to the snow bridges at least a mile upstream. The two difficult streams to ford are the Humpta and the Shaskum. Base Camp was pitched at 12,500 feet in a glade sheltered by boulders and supplied with a spring.

In reconnoitring the Chota Shigri, Sohan and I decided to climb an attractive peak overlooking the valley. An early start, and hard climbing brought us by 8 a.m. to the base of our intended peak, Ring Mo, or Chota Shigri III (17,500 feet). For several hours, we cut our way up an ice-field, finding no real difficulties until it became impracticably steep, then we traversed to the rock ridge on the right. This ridge led to a snow shelf which led to Cols on the east and west of Ring Mo. The summit was another 1,500 feet above us, first being a steep snow wall and then rock.

The near vertical snow wall was so soft that steps would not hold my weight. Up to this point, Sohan had been climbing strongly, but he did not want to try the next section. It seemed just feasible, so I decided to go on alone. In places where steps crumbled, I found that I could climb by thrusting the full length of my ice-axe shaft into the snow, and then pulling myself up to a precarious foothold. Repeating the process, I then plunged my ice-axe in higher and again pulled myself up the sheer slope. As I came to the top of the wall, I saw that what had seemed to be a snow wall was actually a tall slab of snow peeling away from the mountain. The danger of an avalanche was constantly increasing during my forty-five minute climb, both because of my added weight and due to the increased softening by the sun. Quickly then, I stepped across the three- foot crevasse that separated the snow wall from the rock-face of the mountain. I was forced to use crampons for the rock work. Working my way up several rock-faces that ranged up to a severe grade five, I reached a chimney which led to the summit. At 3 p.m. I was at the top.

Sketch-map of Chota Shigri

The snow wall had been softened by the afternoon sun ; therefore, the increased danger of an avalanche made it safer to descend the other side of Ring Mo. It was a route we had not reconnoitred, but it seemed from above to be less difficult. I slipped twice during the descent, but neither time did I get hurt. The second time, my fall stopped uncomfortably close to a three hundred-foot drop. The long snow-field of the morning was now a direct route home and we glissaded for over a mile, as we finished what was not only the first ascent of Ring Mo, but also an unintentional solo traverse.

Two days later, in order to have a closer view of the Bara Shigri, we climbed a pinnacle that jutted up from the rock ridge that separated Base Camp from the Bara Shigri peaks. Because it was technically more challenging, Sohan and I climbed it from the Bara Shigri side. This, at 16,000 feet, was the lowest of a group of three rock pinnacles at the end of the Chota Shigri range.

We had now been in the area three weeks and the rest of our party was due to arrive. To save the others the trek from Chettru, we decided to build a jhula, or Tyrolean traverse, across the Chandra River. We hoped that the others could travel by jeep until opposite Base Camp and then cross over the Chandra by means of the jhula.

Well belayed by Sohan, I tried to swim the Chandra, but could not make even ten of the one hundred and twenty feet of glacially cold turbulent water. After several attempts, we managed to throw a rope across to the opposite bank. Four hours later, with the help of Tibetan refugees on the other bank, the slack was taken out of the rope and we felt that we had a strong and safe jhula. Snapping myself into both a seat sling and a chest harness, I pushed off hand over hand. Half-way across, my weight stretched the rope and I was caught by the current of the Chandra. I was sucked down into an eddy of the river which twisted me around tightening the sling around my chest. Finally when my chest seemed ready to collapse, the chest harness broke. With the relief of pressure, I was able to pull my head above the water, to breathe and finish the crossing. The jhula eventually proved unsatisfactory and we gave up the idea.

RING MO, CHOTA SHIGRI III AND CHOTA SHIGRI IV FROM THE NORTH. ASCENT ROUTE WAS WESTERN RIDGE FROM UPPER SNOW-FIELD. DESCENT WAS THE EASTERN RIDGE (ON LEFT)

NORTH END OF THE BARA SHIGRI RANGE FROM THE WEST. PICTURE TAKEN FROM THE THREE ROCK PINNACLES ON CHOTA SHIGRI I

After several days, the other members of the party arrived, my father, brother, sister, and three high-altitude porters Wangyal, Angchuck and Tashi. Of the three, Wangyal was the best climber. The whole party then climbed all three rock pinnacles at the end of the Chota Shigri ridge. The pinnacles ranged from 16,000 to 16,500 feet, and provided us with an excellent view of the Bara Shigri.

The northernmost peak of the Bara Shigri, at 18,500 feet, seemed both accessible and challenging. We called it Hung-Go. Wangyal and I left Base Camp the following morning to establish a camp as high as possible. Climbing up the north-western ridge all day, we pitched our tent in a snow-field somewhat below 18,000 feet. The next day we continued up. As we had suspected the day before, the ridge we were climbing was considerably more difficult than the adjacent north-eastern ridge. Whereas the north-western ridge had three jagged tooth-like sub-peaks, all above 18,000 feet, the north-eastern ridge was smooth all the way up, not presenting the difficulties Wangyal and I were now encountering. At several points there were patches of verglas ; at others there was rotten rock, and all the snow was soft. My problems were compounded by my boots. I was again wearing the bulky, ⁴ Micky Mouse' Korean Boots. The only advantage of these boots is that one's feet cannot get frost-bite, in fact they constantly sweat. For technical climbing they are no good, because they give no grip and there is just too much boot to fit into footholds. After the first pinnacle was traversed and the second scaled, we faced a steep drop. With the third pinnacle yet to go, it seemed unwise to continue the technically difficult rock-climbing, made more hazardous by my big foot pods. I suggested returning and Wangyal gladly accepted.

It was the middle of July when I left Manali and John Banon's fine care. It was the third week in August when we returned. Beyond the Rohtang, the monsoons had troubled us for less than half an hour, and we had enjoyed perfect climbing weather.

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