CHATURANGI EXPEDITION, 1966

SUJIT BOSE

In the month of April 1966 my friend Aloke Sen and I reconnoitred the lower reaches of the Bhagirathi and Satopanth group of peaks standing between the glaciers Chaturangi and Gangotri, near Gaumukh of Garhwal. We had planned a tentative attempt, to climb Bhagirathi I (22,500 feet) but a premature accident and a violent blizzard drove us back ; hence the decision for the Chaturangi Expedition in September 1966. We planned to climb Satopanth, one of the peaks of Bhagirathi Parbat, and to explore the ranges of the mountains lying between the Bhagirathi and Alakananda glacial catchment. Satopanth (23,245 feet) is remotely situated between the glaciers Suralaya, Sundar and the Serac. Its climb is highly technical. The Germans made an unsuccessful attempt on it in the year 1938. But the gigantic dome has never again been climbed.

The team of ‘Calcutta Climbers' consisted of Sujit Bose (leader), Aloke Sen (deputy leader), Amar Roy, Govinda Raj, Deepak Dey, Jay Shankar Sen, P. S. B. Naidu, Rakhal Bhatta- charya (correspondent) and Tarapada Banerji (cine photographer). The Sherpas were Karma, Gyalboo, Pasang Dawa and Wang Choo. They were selected by Mrs. Pem Pem, daughter of Mr. Norgay.

We reached Harsil in late September. The moonlit night walk from Harsil to Gangotri shall always be in my memory. But we could procure only 52 porters where we wanted 75. This delayed us. At Nandanban we realized that the winter chill was already on. However, the Base Camp was established on October 8 at Vasuki Tal (16,200 feet) on the south bank of the Chaturangi Glacier. Camp I was pitched on the Serac Glacier.

But the Serac ice-fall was broken beyond imagination. The deadly tussle with the ice cascade continued for four days until we reached a height of about 20,000 feet beyond Camp III, the last one on the Serac. The northern ridge of Satopanth looked ominous. The great flank leading to the final saddle deceived us half-way up. The hard blue ice crust gave way to uncovered deep, loose, extremely unsteady neve. For three days we fought, knowing it was futile, until we finally gave up on October 18. The winter had already set in. Satopanth should be attempted by at least six tough mountaineers with a lot of ladders, pitons and ropes in August. But the final Knife-edge Ridge may defy all mountaineers. It is one of the most difficult unclimbed major peaks in the Himalaya.

Bhagirathi group of peaks from west

THE GREAT ICE-FALL OF THE SERAC GLACIER ON SATOPANTH (23,245 FEET)

SITE FOR CAMP II ON SATOPANTH IN THE ICE-FALL. FROM LEFT: KARMA, GYALBOO, GOVINDA RAJ AND SUJIT BOSE

Sketch-map of Chaturangi

The approach to Bhagirathi Parbat I was closed by great avalanches covering the valley of the Sundar, so we made an attempt on Bhagirathi II (c. 21,500 feet). Camp I was established on the south-east face on October 20. A recce on October 2.1 proved that a final assault was possible from here, but the entire mountain was bulging with loose fresh snow. On October 20 Govinda Raj, Amar Ray, Sherpas Karma and Gyalboo climbed to the summit (first Indian success on the peak) after a ten hour gruelling climb. I was in the Base Camp recovering from nausea. On the morning of October 23 a porter wakened me from sleep and told me that the summitters had not returned and had been shouting all night. They had not yet been located. Jay was sick, Naidu and Aloke were too small to lift the two giant wrestlers Amar and Raj, Wang Choo had a sprained ankle and Pasang was sick, so I had only Deepak (untrained) and the porters to attempt a rescue. Sher Bahadur, the mate, and his party agreed, but I had to keep strict vigilance. So it was for the first time that the Harsil porters were used for a rescue. Pasang and Aloke directed them on the ground and I on the radio. The summitters were located and Raj was rescued at about 3.30 p.m. He was severely frost-bitten on all his toes and fingers. When rescuers went back to Karma he had passed away.

Climbing down at 6 p.m. the summitters had depended on Karma, the famous Everester (posthumous Tiger, April 1967). While others were negotiating a steep snow slope Karma slipped from behind and went by like lightning. Before anyone could realize it they were all falling. They fell for over 700 feet, rolling on rock and ice on to a bed of ice and snow and stopped. The fall was unnoticed due to a cover of cloud. Amar died while falling, Karma and Gyalboo were seriously injured and Raj was almost unscathed. It was already dark. Gyalboo died at midnight and Karma died at about 3.30 p.m. next day. Raj was brought to Base Camp late in the evening. Next day I wanted to go to rescue the bodies, but the Camp I men returned too late and it started snowing. This continued for five days.

I treated Raj for five days until Indian Air Force helicopters rescued us. I.A.F. doctors congratulated me on successful treatment of Raj and said that amputation was no longer necessary. I was frost-bitten in the toes, but it was not so serious. However, four months later the Mysore doctors amputated a few of Raj's toes.

I guess excessive snow-fall and early winter were responsible for the calamity. Further plans were abandoned.

Amar Roy used to be my intimate friend from college days in the University Rowing Club. He was a brilliant sportsman, State champion at many sports-rowing, swimming, wrestling,, weight-lifting, body-building, etc. A Calcutta University B.Com. and Corporation clerk, he never did anything to displease anybody. His smile shall remain always in my heart. He used to be my most respected friend.

My heart bleeds to this day when I think of Gyalboo and Karma. Loving and friendly, yet great and tough climbers, their experiences were on South Col, Annapurna, Janu, Api, Nanda Devi and many other mountains. On most occasions they were in the final camp.

(The expedition was partially financed by the Defence Ministry of India, Education Department of West Bengal and the Amrita Bazar Patrika. I thank Air Marshal Arjan Singh, Prime Minister Mrs. Indira Gandhi, Defence Secretary Mr. Sarin, Commander Kohli, Chief Ministers of Bengal and U.P. and Shri Atulya Ghosh, M.P., for their encouragement. Finally I shall remain ever grateful to FL-Lt. R. K. Kapoor and Sq. Ldr. Bakhshi who rescued us.)

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