THE MOUNTAINS SOUTH OF DRAS

MAJOR E. A. L. GUETERBOGK

E. h. Marriott and I wished to indulge in some mild mountaineering during our two months' leave in 1936, but neither of us could get away except in July and August. As these months are usually subject to the full effects of the monsoon, we had to choose as dry an area as possible and decided to go north of the main range in Kashmir. Ease of access from roadhead was desirable in order that the least time might be wasted in trekking. The mountains immediately south of Dras fulfilled these conditions, and also promised some exploratory interest, as they are said in Routes in the Western Himalaya, vol. i, to be inaccurately mapped. The surveyor had shown considerable glaciation in this area in spite of its location beyond the full effect of the monsoon, and we expected that there would be some interest from the technical climbing point of view.

A somewhat cursory investigation¹ into previous visits to this area revealed that probably nobody but hunters had been there since the original survey party over seventy years ago, except one hurried survey party early in the War. There was nothing but the quarter- inch map, 43N, to indicate the best approaches. As a number of inaccuracies were subsequently found in the representation of the higher regions on this sheet, the prismatic compass and aneroid sketch-map which we made is reproduced with this paper. References will be made to this sketch-map unless otherwise stated. When references are made to the quarter-inch map, the sheet number will be mentioned in brackets.

We offer an immediate apology for the names on the sketch-map. The cartographer is faced with a problem rather worse than that which confronted Adam and Eve. They, at any rate, had a free hand in naming things. But the cartographer's imagination is curbed by fear. In this area some names already exist, either on the map, or in books, or as known to local inhabitants. Unfortunately certain names on the map, such as Tapshah (43N), were quite unknown to the local inhabitants. To make things still more difficult, it was a rare occurrence for two inhabitants to have the same name for the same place. In the last resort, deprived of even this local assistance, we judged by appearances, did our best, and tried to get our ideas translated into the vernacular in accordance with the procedure indicated in the recent Survey of India instructions.¹

 

We were quite unable to find any 21,000-foot peak as mentioned in Neve's Thirty Tears in Kashmir, and infer from Survey of India data that the Machai peak (point 19,620 on map 43N) was meant. This is one example of mountain elusiveness. We came across another case, namely an intersected point, 17,605, near the Bobang pass, which peak, it is regretted, appears to be near the bottom of a valley about 14,000 feet above sea-level.

The Survey of India kindly gave us a sheet showing trigonometrical stations, intersected points, &c., with greater accuracy than they are on map 43N. There was no difficulty in fixing most of this sheet on the ground or on the quarter-inch map, as the greater part of our area was shown on it as 'a perfect and absolute blank'. That is to say, the Survey of India had no reliable data about the Shangsha basin, several spot heights given on map 43N being considered uncertain. No blame can be attached to the Survey authorities, who can do no more than their finances permit. The remarkable thing is the accuracy with which the deep valleys into which surveyors actually penetrated are mapped.

We started off with the assumptions that

1. points on the survey sheet were correct unless flagrantly at variance with our observations;
2. failing the survey sheet, spot heights on the map 43N were correct as regards location and height, provided they agreed fairly well with our observations;
3. our own compass resections and aneroid readings had to be adjusted accordingly.

Aneroids are notoriously flattering instruments for the mountaineer, and we invariably reduced our observed heights according to local conditions, such as comparison with spot heights on the map or survey sheet. The normal reduction was from 200 to 400 feet, but on one occasion, with an obviously falling barometer, we reduced our height by 600 feet.

As neither Marriott nor I was feeling very tigerish we engaged two porters from Darjeeling, Tashi Tendrup and Ang Tempa. They were most useful, not only when moving light camps but also in carrying our rucksacks on climbs.

On arrival at Dras we walked up to a green col, Lamochan La, 14,000 feet, about 1J miles north-west of point 14,850, and saw the Ghumchand valley to the south. Although we later found many herdsmen and cattle in this valley, the local lambardar assured us that no surveyor had ever been in it. Faced, therefore, with the prospect of pure exploration and unable to get more than five coolies, we decided on a reconnaissance up this valley for a few days. The coolies, though few in number, were good.

 

This reconnaissance showed us several things. First, unless there are continuous snow beds, it is far better to go over the Lamochan La, i.e. east of point 14,364 (Lamochan Rocks), rather than round the west of them. Secondly, without almost continuous snow-bridges, progress up the valley to the stream junction at point 12,297 (43N) would be most laborious. Thirdly, there are good camp sites about half a mile north of point 12,297 (43N) on the west bank and near the snout of the Namadanra glacier on the east bank on a broad flat shelf near a spring, there being ample fuel at the former but none at the latter site. Fourthly, a cairn on the Brilpah glacier below the last ice-fall indicated a previous visitor. Fifthly, and partially erroneously, the peaks, with the exception of Karpolakpa, appeared uniformly inaccessible. The bases of other peaks seemed to be defended by difficult ice-falls denying access to the higher parts of the glaciers by steep and rotten cliffs or by snow liable to avalanche. We were to revise this opinion later (see Appendix, Climbing Notes).

We returned to try to climb Karpolakpa. After a reconnaissance up the Jarakhesh glacier for a couple of miles to see the north face of Machai peak, we established a camp at 16,200 feet on the west side of the upper basin of Brilpah glacier. From here we started for Karpolakpa, but the attempt failed owing to unexpectedly bad ice conditions on the mountain and equally unexpected absence of condition on the part of ourselves.

This trip did, however, yield one peak, Soh, which Tashi Tendrup and I climbed from the Rekesha glacier on the north. The upper basin of this glacier had been seen from Karpolakpa Rocks to be delightfully easy of access by a route on the north side of the lowest ice-fall. Owing to the prevalence of crevasses, we festooned ourselves with a doubled rope and loops in the approved fashion. We had given our Darjeeling men some instruction in this method of roping and the extrication of a man from a crevasse, but it is doubtful how much of the drill would have been remembered in an emergency.

From our higher viewpoints it appeared that certain other peaks are climbable without undue difficulty or danger, viz. most of those west of Soh, which can be reached from the Rekesha glacier. Tahpoh glacier, the next glacier to the south, would yield good climbing if a camp could be established above its lowest ice-fall, a matter of some difficulty. A further reconnaissance up the Jarakhesh glacier and to the ridge between Furba and Jarakhesh showed that some smaller peaks there would provide interest.

It was disappointing to find that Machai peak is on all sides as inaccessible as any peak of that height could be. Would-be suicides might don crash helmets and try the western gully leading up to a triangular gendarme 100 feet below the summit. The only safe and easy part appeared to be above this triangular gendarme. On other sides the mountain is even less accommodating. The north-east ridge provides a passable imitation of Kangchenjunga, and the German climbers' siege-tactics might be employed on that ridge, the bottom of which may easily be attained by a long trek from the Umba La.¹ The north face consists of organ-pipes of steep rock and ice, continually swept by avalanches. The east and south-east ridges and the east and south faces are set up at an appalling angle and covered with a mass of decaying rock pinnacles.

The northern aspect of the ridge from point 18,719 to the saddle at Kamboh Pir, while presenting a truly magnificent mountain wall, was uninviting to us after our failure on Karpolakpa, and we decided to see what its southern side looked like. We therefore trekked over the Umba La to Kargi, two miles north of Suru (43N), and found that the tributary joining the Suru river there was called the Shang- sha. Nobody had heard of Tapshah (43N), which locality is nowadays called 'Astana' and contains a stone said to have been sat on by our Lord.

We obtained twenty-eight good coolies at Kargi from a local official, who might have stepped out of an ancient Assyrian stone carving, and was said to be in charge of the res or obligatory provision of transport and supplies. Now, as far as we knew, res was confined to the 'Treaty Road' to Leh, and we had heard of no res in the Suru area. The diversion of 'Treaty Road' res coolies to other tasks is not permissible, and we wished to be careful not to transgress the rules. So we inquired where the res road led to, and were told 'to Nun Kun'. We trust that the Kashmir authorities will not mind our having diverted res coolies from that busy thoroughfare.

The route up the Shangsha valley to Astana may be easy when there are many snow-beds, but it provided a distinctly difficult two days for laden coolies as we found it. The Shangsha basin is a favourite summer grazing-ground for sheep and goats. The herds migrate elsewhere for the winter. Most of them go by the Wardwan to the Jhelum valley or to Jammu. Several routes exist over the southern or western walls of the Shangsha basin, but none of them are very easy, and all, we were told, are more difficult than the route from Kargi. The chance of losing animals during their move from the Shangsha basin did not induce shepherds to part with their beasts very cheaply. Sheep were cheaper than goats, possibly because goats provide milk or because more casualties are likely to occur to sheep.

 

The Shangsha valley as far as Astana, and all its tributaries even above Astana, are remarkable for their narrowness and the steepness of their sides. Reconnaissances up the Piados and North Refsah ravines showed that the establishment of a high camp and progress to the upper portions of mountains in that area would be hindered by difficult ground. The ravine to the east of the Piados Nala, viz. the Umba Nala, offered an easy route along continuous snow-beds once the bottom of the gorge had been turned by convenient marmot tracks over the western containing spur. But, though progress is easy for some distance, this ravine leads to the very difficult south-east face of Machai peak or to the less interesting-looking mountains¹ overlooking Umba. The Shangsha glacier was more promising. It is easy to get on to and forms, in fact, a normal shepherd's route from the Wardwan during the early summer before the crevasses are open.

We had established our camp at Astana on what proved to be a windy shelf, and future parties would do better to ford another two streams and camp at the foot of the Shangsha glacier. We moved a light camp up to a very convenient site, a shelf at 14,800 feet on the north side of the lower ice-fall of the West Shangsha glacier. Though outside the moraine, this camp site is safe, provides a considerable measure of shelter from the persistent west wind, and is near a good spring. There is no fuel near by.

From here we climbed the Sai Needle, gaining the Sai Needle glacier by scree slopes on the east side of its steep tongue. The final pyramid is steep but climbable without difficulty by its east ridge on snow or rocks. There was hardly a cloud in the sky and the peak proved to be an excellent viewpoint.

Our attention was then turned to North Krowa peak, which appeared to offer comparatively few difficulties, except that of distance, and to give us a good view of the peaks on either side of the East Shangsha glacier. After a reconnaissance of the route through the crevasses of the West Shangsha glacier, we made an attempt on the peak, starting at 3.15 a.m. A thunderstorm in the Wardwan during the night and general signs of poor weather did not offer a hopeful prospect. There were some vilely treacherous crevasses on the covered glacier above the final ice-fall, and, in view of low clouds pouring over the surface of the pass, between point 18,234 and Drubgan peak, we retreated below the dangerously crevassed area for breakfast. Some slight improvement in the weather and the discovery of a route for the descent which would avoid these crevasses, tempted us up the West Shangsha glacier to its head. Here we found that this glacier rises from a col, the Krowa Pir, on the far side of which rock precipices fall to the East Shangsha glacier. We gained a shaly shoulder on the ridge from this col to North Krowa peak, but by that time it was too late to tackle the remaining 800 feet of unstable-looking rock-towers which lead up to the summit of that peak.

 

We had, however, reached an interesting viewpoint, and saw that the East Shangsha glacier rises from a comparatively low snow col, from which another glacier probably falls on the far side towards a steep tributary leading into the main Shangsha valley, about half a mile west of our first camp in the Shangsha (i.e. one mile west of a birch-wood marked by two trees on map 43N). The south wall of the East Shangsha glacier is a fine sight, a continuous barrier of steep rock or ice some 3,000 feet high.

During the whole of this day, clouds were boiling up from the Wardwan against this barrier wall and against point 19,590. Sometimes tongues of mist would sweep over the pass between point 18,234 and Drubgan peak up the West Shangsha glacier. Yet we were almost continuously in sunshine some 1 ½ miles from the edge of the bad weather. A double halo round the sun at midday warned us of approaching storms and we hurried back to camp.

The following day was observed as a day of rest. The weather was glorious, but we had had a sun halo in the Ghumchand valley which had brought bad weather after forty-eight hours. We were, therefore, not too optimistic about a repeated attempt next day on North Krowa peak.¹

We had rejected the possibilities of tackling a badly stone-scarred though fairly short (500 feet) gully leading from the West Shangsha glacier to a reddish part of the ridge from Marpola to North Krowa peak about half a mile from the latter. It is in our opinion preferable to gain this ridge from an easy col just east of Marpola (a brown Summit) and go along the ridge.

 

After a start at 2.40 a.m., dawn saw us at the foot of the final ice- fall and we reached our col by 7.15 a.m. The double halo was, however, already doing its work, and clouds came up the Wardwan against the barrier of point 19,590. The ascent of the first gendarme involved if hours' step-cutting, which was hardly essential at that hour of the morning on hard snow but would, we knew, be required for the return journey, when this slope would be steep ice, covered with two inches of slime. The prospect of avoiding all this downhill step-cutting was the only incentive to the leader in his morning labour.

The delay proved to be irreparable. We reached a yellow tower composed, apparently, of partially congealed sawdust which geologists might call sandstone.⁶ By the time we had got half-way down the far side of this tower, it was obvious that we could not reach the summit of North Krowa peak in reasonable time that day, as several further gendarmes still remained to be tackled and no deviation from the ridge was possible.

 

We took the opportunity of examining a route from the Central Shangsha glacier but considered that the snow slopes of the North Krowa peak ridge on that side would be liable to avalanche. Such a route might, however, be possible for a direct descent in an emergency, although the passage of the Central Shangsha glacier ice- fall between Marpola and Sirpola (a grey hill) would be attended by great difficulty.

The bad weather overtook us and we were glad of our ice-steps. We were soaked before we reached camp. A period of monsoon incursion seemed to have set in and it was decided to spend these days trekking round to the Bobang pass (43N) and hope for a peak in that area.

In spite of the warning in Neve's Tourist's Guide to Kashmir that the Bobang pass is rarely practicable for ponies, we took our ponies on and only kept five Suru coolies to help us over bad stretches. These proved sufficient but we did not keep them long enough.

The weather had improved by the time we reached the Bobang pass, and we established a light camp on rather damp earth among the huge granite boulders and slabs 100 feet below the top of the pass on the east side, sending our ponies on the same day to Kon Nag with our heavy baggage.

After a day's rest in cloudless weather we were called at 3 a.m. to find snow falling. Sound sleep then descended on us, and we awoke as the sun's rays struck our camp at 7 a.m. In spite of clouds blowing up from the south and somewhat oblivious of the fact that we were now on, instead of protected by, the main range, we started off for the Bobang peak, immediately south-east of the pass, at 8.15 a.m. Glacier, then rocks, then snow, mist, bergschrunds, and denser mist came our way. With eyes keenly watching for known and unknown cornices, but seeing very little in the mist, we struggled on to a snow summit. The leader approached the edge gingerly and discovered a nice safe snow slope leading gently down the other side. A slight clearing of the mists, however, indicated that the total length of this slope was only three feet and that it ended in an overhanging ice- wall a good 100 feet high. That we had reached the summit was confirmed from our tracks next day.

During our leisurely return to camp that afternoon the weather improved. We had to leave next day, but decided to traverse Retsheriah, an easy-looking mound, before going down the valley. The ascent of loose scree next morning in a bitter north wind was fatiguing, but we were rewarded by a magnificent view on a cloudless day from what must be one of the most easily climbable peaks in the district. Although this mountain is composed entirely of scree, it rises to 17,000 feet above sea-level and is surrounded by five glaciers and so deserves the title of peak.

From here we descended its western ridge some way in order to get a view into a high cwm to the south of South Krowa peak, and then dropped down into the valley to Mushkol, presumably the modern pronunciation of Morsekhol, a place located in Routes in the Western Himalaya, vol. 1, Route 51, as in the Bat Kol valley (map 43N). Mushkol is a luxuriant alp in the side valley leading up to the Bobang pass and a spot much frequented by grazing horses, sheep, &c.

We rejoined our main camp at Kon Nag. Our ponies had had a difficult time in the steep descent on the west side of the Bobang pass, and were to have a worse time next day on the atrocious track along the Bat Kol river at its great bend between Humpet (43N) and Sokhniz (43O). We had dismissed our Suru coolies, and so, with the natural malignity of inanimate objects, loads fell off right and left on that stretch. While good ponies with small, compact, and well- lashed loads can get through without undue difficulties, the ordinary Sind valley pony with yakdans, bedding, &c., balanced on its back in the usual way, and tied down with old string, is hardly suitable for this route. Unfortunately the freezing pain of the Bat Kol fords below Kon Nag, in the early morning, and the constant worry of loads falling off, did not induce that peace of mind required for the full enjoyment of the magnificent scenery in the bend of the Bat Kol valley.

The area we had visited fulfilled our expectations of providing many good climbs at low altitudes. It is, moreover, easily accessible either via Dras, as we went, or from Humpet via the Drubgan valley. A party using the latter approach must, however, arrange beforehand for the provision of Suru coolies at Humpet and must anticipate difficulties in crossing the pass between point 18,234 and Drubgan peak late in the season. Such a route provides the quickest way of establishing a camp high up on the West Shangsha glacier.

A study of meteorological records during the seven weeks of our journey reveals that we were lucky in that July and August 1936 were dry months in Kashmir. But we did enjoy the protection from the monsoon afforded on our south by the main range and other mountain masses. On both occasions when we were trying North Krowa peak this protection was very real and stopped bad weather at an extremely short distance from us for long periods. On the other hand, when bad weather did occur and the monsoon broke through, clouds and precipitation occurred far to the north, there being no appreciable difference in cloud-level as far north as Machai peak. On these occasions the monsoon storms appeared to come up the Wardwan valley from the south or down the Gamru valley (43N) from the west, i.e. over the Zoji La. In all cases we received considerable warning of the approach of bad weather, sometimes as much as two days'. Except during such incursions of the monsoon, skies were generally clear and there was a noticeable absence of clouds hanging about the sides and summits of peaks. Fair-weather clouds kept very high.

The total cost of the journey from Srinagar and back was about Rs. 2,200. Our party contained one bearer, a cook, a cook's mate, and a sweeper and the two Darjeeling men, whose fares from and to Darjeeling are included. Transport charges, when off the Treaty Road, were paid at 14 annas per pony per day's work or 7 annas per day's rest plus baksheesh. Suru coolies were paid at 12 annas per day and given no money baksheesh. This was not so popular as paying 8 annas per day plus 4 annas baksheesh which is what we did at Dras. We promised such a high wage to our Suru coolies in order to be certain they would come up again to Astana to evacuate our camp from the Shangsha valley. We had great difficulty in getting Suru men to accept silver four-anna pieces.

Supplies are scanty and expensive at Dras, where they are sold at government nerrick rates. The only supplies available in the Shangsha valley are sheep and goats. A sheep costs from Rs. 3 ½ to 6 ½ there Supplies available in the Suru valley include sheep, chickens, eggs, and peas, at reasonable prices. Wild rhubarb is often obtainable, especially in the Ghumchand valley. Sattu, made of barley, is obtainable at Dras and Suru and appears to be the same thing as the tsampa obtained at Darjeeling.

We had been warned that the local inhabitants would require vast quantities of Epsom salts. The demand for this commodity was, however, not very heavy. Their chief requirements seem to be matches, and dressings for septic wounds.

APPENDIX

Climbing Notes

The area visited can be divided into three parts:

1. The Ghumchand basin.
2. The Shangsha basin.
3. The Bobang area.

The general difficulty is, as usual, to get on to the base of one's mountain. Avalanche and snow conditions will naturally vary with circumstances.

A. Ghumchand basin.

(Note: Ghumchand, Karposhama (tr. 'White Stones'), and Namadanra are local names.)

Machaipeak (19,620 feet). Difficult and dangerous. Best route—camp at 14,200 feet on east side of snout of Namadanra glacier. Scree and rock nullahs lead up to a very steep gully on the west of the mountain. This Western gully' is scree, partially covered with snow. Probably best to climb on to the north-west ridge which leads up to a triangular gendarme 100 feet below the summit. Route is well visible from Soh (plate 5).

(Note: 'Machai' is presumably a local name, but is not in current use near Dras.)

Karpolakpa (18,800 feet) (tr. 'White Arms'). Route 1. Camp at west corner of upper basin of Brilpah glacier. Easy scree and snow to Karpolakpa Rocks; then along ridge. Rock gendarme looks rather difficult and above it is an awkward ice knife-edge and bergschrund below steep upper snow slopes. Two more bergschrunds higher up were bridged in July 1936. The top is steep.

Route 2. A narrow snow or ice ridge leads up from the col between the Karpolakpa and Brilpah. The ascent to this col from the Brilpah glacier is steep snow and showed avalanche tracks. The top 200 feet are of very steep rock.

Both routes well visible from Brilpah glacier and Karpolakpa Rocks (plate 3).

Brilpah (17,600 feet) (tr. 'Frog'). Easy ridges lead up from cols to north and south; but to reach either col or to climb the west face involves very steep ice or snow and risk of avalanches. Seen from Brilpah glacier and Karpolakpa Rocks (plate 3).

Rekesha (18,452 feet) (tr. 'Striped Mountain') and Karma (17,600 feet) (tr. 'Star'). Appear accessible from Rekesha glacier. Rekesha is probably composed of good rock; its east face has many prominent ribs. These two were seen from Karpolakpa Rocks and Rekesha glacier (plate 2).

Nakpohkhap (17,800 feet) (tr. 'Black Needle'). Appears to be a pyramid composed of black rotten rock. Seen from Rekesha glacier and Soh (plate 2).

Soh (17,200 feet) (tr. 'Tooth'). Climbed 2nd August 1936 by Gueterbock and Tashi Tendrup. Route by Namadanra glacier on western moraine; watch for falling stones in the late morning. Turn lowest ice-fall of Rekesha glacier on north side. Cross glacier, much crevassed. Then up by ridge of bad rock and snow. The peak appears as a prominent tooth when seen from Namadanra glacier (plate 1).

Tahpoh (18,500 feet) (tr. 'Thumb') and other peaks on that ridge. May be reached from Tahpoh glacier between that ridge and the ridge from Soh to Rekesha. Tahpoh is a rocky, thumb-like pinnacle on the ridge.

It is difficult to get up the lowest ice-fall of the Tahpoh glacier. A camp on the glacier above this ice-fall is required. The faces of all peaks on the ridge facing the glacier are dangerous from avalanches, but the ridge is attainable from Kamboh Pir (tr. 'Dry Col').

Seen well from Karpolakpa Rocks.

Point 18,719 (see also under Group B). If the very difficult ice-fall to the north of the peak can be climbed, the peak can be ascended by its steep snow or ice east ridge. It was seen from Soh (plate 6).

Karposhama Peak (18,500 feet) and Nakpola (18,200 feet) (tr. 'Black Mountain'). Karposhama consists of light-coloured rock; Nakpola is black. Steep rock-towers defend all their ridges on the Namadanra sides. Karposhama peak might be climbed from the west. Both were seen from Karpolakpa Rocks and Karposhama peak from Lamochan La as well.

Neigoh (17,000 feet) (tr. 'Fish's Head'). A steep rock gully, scree, and slabs lead up from Ghumchand valley via the west ridge. Seen from the Lamochan La, from where it bears a certain resemblance in profile to the Requin (shark).

Furba (17,400 feet) (tr. 'Wing') and Jarakhesh (16,700 feet) (tr. 'Claw') and other peaks between. Attainable without much difficulty from the Jarakhesh glacier. Route up glacier on eastern moraine. Intermediate peak climbed 3rd August 1936 by Marriott and Ang Tempa. Furba appears as a double summit when seen from the north, and as a broad ridge from the west.

Jarakhesh looks like a claw from the north-west.

B. Shangsha basin.

Point 19,590 (see also under Group C). Route 1. Its long and corniced west ridge appears possible. This ridge can be reached by a snow or ice spur leading down north-west to the West Shangsha glacier. It can be seen well from Marpola ridge (plate 8).

Point 18,234 (^see under Group C). This is marked 17,998 on map 43N.

Its height is more probably 18,234 feet given on survey sheet. It appears difficult from Shangsha side, owing to steepness.

North Krowa peak (18,300 feet). Described in text. The establishment of a camp on the upper West Shangsha glacier should facilitate ascent. Recommended route is along ridge leading from Marpola (plate 8).

South Krowa peak (18,500 feet) {see Group C). The slopes down to the West Shangsha glacier look liable to avalanche (plate 8).

Krowa means 'Corner’. The two peaks are at the corners of the West Shangsha glacier.

Drubganpeak (18,300 feet). Steep at the top. Its north-east and south-east ridges and south face appear climbable under good conditions. It can be seen well from upper West Shangsha glacier.

Drubgan peak is at the head of the Drubgan Nala, a local name (plate 10).

Point 17,250 SSE. of Sai Needle. A broad peak of rotten rock, but at an easy angle on south and east (plate 7).

Sai Needle (17,200 feet). The Sai Needle is near the route to the Sai Nala (plate 7). It was climbed on 15th August 1936 by Gueterbock, Marriott, Tashi Tendrup, and Ang Tempa and is described in the text. The south ridge also looks easy.

Sekiokloma Valley (tr. 'Twisting Nala') and peaks on its west. Some interesting climbing might be had from a camp established up this valley, but no routes were reconnoitred. A good general view may be obtained of them from near Sai Needle.

Point 18,719, Tahpoh and other peaks on this ridge. If a high camp could be established on north side of the Shangsha basin, these peaks appear climbable by generally steep rock ridges and faces. They are seen well from Sai Needle and Marpola {tr. 'Brown Hill').

Karpolakpa and Brilpah (seen from near North Krowa peak at a distance). Very steep and broken rock on the south-east. No reasonable routes on this side.

Point 18,367. Upper parts as seen from near North Krowa peak appear climbable up very steep snow or ice from the north. The establishment of a high camp south of Refsah (tr. 'Cross') is necessary and might be difficult.

Uchenomosom (18,000 feet) {tr. 'Three Sisters'). A triple summit, probably best attained from the col between it and point 18,367.

Point 18,701 {see also under Group C). The face towards the East Shangsha glacier consists of rock precipices and a very steep ice slope 5,000 feet high and badly crevassed. It can be seen well from Krowa Pir (plate 9).

C. Bobang area.

Bobang peak (17,500 feet) and Retsheriah (17,000 feet) {tr. 'Stony Hill'). Climbed by Gueterbock, Marriott, Tashi Tendrup, and Ang Tempa on 26th and 27th August 1936 respectively. Described in text (plate 13).

Icy peak (17,800 feet). Can be climbed by narrow ice ridge from Bobang peak. A rock gendarme may cause difficulty. It was seen well from Retsheriah (plate 13).

Pointed peak (18,000 feet). A difficult and long climb via Bobang and Icy peaks. It was seen well from Retsheriah (plate 13).

Ketpah (17,900 feet) (tr. 'End of Ridge'). Very steep rock precipices on West Bobang valley side deny approach. It can be seen well from Bobang pass.

Point 18,234 (^see under Group B). A steep ridge leads up from the Drubgan Nala; it looks possible when seen from Humpet (43N).

Point 19,590 (see also under Group B). Two routes from the south appear possible.

Route 2—the shorter—is up the east side of the main south glacier to the upper part of this glacier, where a camp would have to be established at about 17,500 feet. Then on to level ridge east of point 19,590 and up very steep ice to summit.

Route 3—long but probably technically easier climbing, via southern ridges and over a subsidiary peak. The establishment of intermediate camps might be difficult.

Both routes were seen well from Retsheriah; the upper part of Route 3 is visible from Humpet.

South Krowa peak and ridges to west and south of it. Attainable from upper part of glacier south of point 19,590 (see that peak's route 2). It was seen from Retsheriah and ridges running west therefrom.

Peaks from Beigoh West to point 18,701. This ridge never drops below 18,600 feet except at one place near point 18,701. The best way of reaching it is by a ridge leading to a depression to the west of Beigoh East. From this depression Beigoh East and White peak to its east could be climbed, but point 18,701 is too far (plate 9). There appears to be no easy route up point 18,701. Ridge is seen well from Bobang pass. The two Beigoh mountains are 'cock's combs' reminiscent of Les Droites and Les Courtes. (Beigoh means 'Cock's Head'.)

Snow and ice conditions. Glaciers were generally bare up to 16,000 feet. Except just above the final ice-fall of the West Shangsha glacier no abnormally treacherous crevasses were found. But in that place several crevasses were covered with dome-sectioned roofs and were distinctly unpleasant.

The depth of new snow below 18,000 feet was small. In the afternoons the surface of steep snow slopes nearly always consisted of a layer of a couple of inches of slimy snow on a hard icy surface. Crampons balled and, without crampons, boot-heels slipped. Such conditions often necessitated step- cutting, unless a way round could be found.

Rest Days. New-comers to the Himalaya, who have only climbed in the Alps, may find as we did that it is advisable to take a day off in a high camp before a climb, rather than to time one's rest days after climbs. Whereas in the Alps the mountaineer goes up in one day to a hut from which he does his climbing, the climber in these parts of Kashmir may have two or more hard days getting to his high camp.

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