PEAK 36, SALTORO KARAKORAM A MOUNTAINEERING ANALYSIS

JOHN HUNT AND JAMES WALLER

1. APPENDIXES - INDEX
2. APPENDIXES I - PLAN AND EQUIPMENT
3. APPENDIXES II - STORES AND RATIONS
4. APPENDIXES III
5. APPENDIXES IV - TRANSPORT
6. APPENDIXES V - PHOTOGRAPHY
7. APPENDIXES VI - RECORD OF TEMPERATURES

 

(The following analysis of the authors' attempt on Peak 36, in the Saltoro Karakoram, during June 1935, should be studied together with the account of the climb which was published in Himalayan Journal, vol. viii, 1936. The text below is by John Hunt, the Appendixes by James Waller.)

The summits of Peak 35 (25,280 feet) and Peak 36 (25,400 feet)¹⁴ lie on a great ridge whose approximate orientation is NW.-SE. From the southern side of this ridge a tremendous rock-face falls some 10,000 feet towards the Sherpigang glacier, while the northern side, less steep and, in general, heavily glaciated, falls to the basin of the Peak 36 glacier, directly south of the junction of this glacier with the Siachen. From the summit of the lower peak the ridge descends precipitously towards the north-west in a series of steps occasioned by the strata, but the south-east continuation maintains a gentle gradient almost throughout its length. Except for two prominent buttresses thrown out on the N. and NE. sides of the peak, there are no other ridges.

The Approaches.

From the south the natural approach to the foot of the south face is by the Kondus Nala and the Sherpigang glacier, three of whose feeder glaciers flow directly from the foot of this precipice.

From the north the Peak 36 glacier may be reached by ascending the Siachen glacier through the greater part of its length, and thus access is gained to the northern and eastern sides of Peak 36. As the natural approach of any expedition from Kashmir will be from the south, however, the problem of reaching the Peak 36 glacier from this direction has to be faced. There are three alternative routes:

1. Via the Bilafond La (18,000 feet), whence a descent can be made of the Lolofond glacier to the Siachen, and the latter ascended until its junction with the Peak 36 glacier. A further tedious ascent of the latter will then be necessary to reach the foot of Peak 36. It will be seen that this is a long route, involving a difficult and expensive line of communications.
2. Via the Bilafond La, whence a crossing of the Bilafond Wall must be made, by one of two possible cols, to reach the basin of the Peak 36 glacier. This is a fairly direct approach, but the Bilafond Wall, easy of access from the Bilafond pass, falls very steeply on to the Peak 36 glacier, its average height being over 1,000 feet. A route down this side, probably in ice and including the passage of a berg- schrund, could hardly be made passable for local coolies.
3. The Sherpigang glacier has a tributary glacier on its eastern flank, which, in a series of bends or 'arms', skirts round the SSE. base of the mountain, from the actual foot of the SE. ridges. By crossing the end of this ridge the Bilafond Wall is soon reached at the point where it abuts into the east face of Peak 36, and at this point a technically simple descent can be made to the Peak 36 glacier.

The course taken by this glacier, first revealed by our No. 1 reconnaissance (Waller and Da Tondrup), offers the most direct and the least difficult route to the only vulnerable points of Peak 36, and is therefore the route which we strongly recommend to future parties. It is, however, free of neither difficulty nor danger.

The second 'arm' of this glacier, whose nullah is known locally as the Likah, contains a considerable ice-fall (2,500 feet), up which coolies should not be taken. It can be avoided by taking to the true right (W.) bank, and reaching a col (Likah col, 18,000 feet) whence a steep descent of some 700 feet is made on to the easy upper reaches of the Likah glacier, and above the head of the ice-fall.

 

This col will normally be heavily corniced on its far or east side, and though the uniformity of the slope below is broken by outcrops of rock, its general angle makes it a troublesome place for coolies, and the difficulty and the element of danger are increased when conditions are bad. A long fixed line is necessary for this passage. We were caught by a blizzard during the descent of this slope, and it was five days before all the loads were brought down from the col. Future parties are advised to carry all the loads down, and not to attempt throwing or lowering under any circumstances; the irregularities of the slope are against such tactics.

Although the technical difficulties of the ascent are at an end after circumventing the ice-fall, it may be dangerous after crossing the foot of the SE. ridge. The eastern face is broken some 2,000 feet above its base by an almost uninterrupted line of ice-cliffs, which are in a continual state of disintegration, and their base, from the foot of the SE. ridge to the Bilafond Wall, and round the edges of the Peak 36 glacier, will be found strewn with ice-blocks.

A detour can be made to avoid much of this danger, but the only easy passage of the Bilafond Wall is at its junction with the mountain face, and at this point avalanches are particularly active. At least three falls of colossal dimensions occurred here during our stay, one of which we witnessed; not only did the debris sweep both sides of the col by which we crossed, but the mass of ice-blocks poured out into the level basin of the Peak 36 glacier for a distance of over 500 yards. For this reason, this col can never be used as a regular coolie route, which means that, if the Likah route is taken, the Base Camp of an expedition cannot be on the Peak 36 glacier. As the exposure to ice avalanches is experienced soon after crossing the SE. ridge, it is felt that the site of our Base Camp, at the head of the Likah glacier and at the foot of the rocks of the SE. ridge itself, is an ideal one.

Route of Ascent.

The NW. ridge, descending from the summit of Peak 36, need not be considered as a climbing proposition at that altitude. Apart from its general angle and exposure, which would make it difficult to establish camps on it, the strata lie to the climber's disadvantage.

No more promising is the south face, an imposing rock precipice, which, though relieved by bands of snow, indicating changes in gradient, would not be climbable in the Himalaya. The only vulnerable features of the mountain are, in fact, the SE. ridge and the E. (or ENE.) face.

Attention is at once drawn to the attractive slope of the SE. ridge, curving down from the summit of Peak 36 until about 1,500 feet above its foot. Here its uniformity is interrupted by some 300 feet of crumbling ice-cliff (corresponding with the line of ice-cliffs continuing from this point along the east face), below which it terminates, in about half a mile, in an arete of red granite. The existence of this ice-cliff, which we actually watched breaking away during our stay at the base, makes it inevitable that the ridge can be used only above this point. It would in the Alps be an ice problem of the first magnitude, without the added difficulty of altitude and camps. An attempt to reach the head of the rock arete immediately below the cliff I lowed that considerable labour in step-cutting would be entailed, ind therefore ropes fixed for coolies, before the crucial pitch was reached; and ice is tough at that height. Moreover, the possibility of the ice-cliff falling away during or after the passage of the party rules it out as a route.

There remains, therefore, the problem of striking the SE. ridge above the ice-cliffs. As explained, this is not feasible on the southern side, but the solution lies in the face falling on to the Peak 36 glacier. After crossing the Bilafond Wall, and skirting the foot of the face for about a mile, the base of a great shelf of ice is reached, some 2,000 feet in height and projecting into the glacier basin. Above this shelf is the only break in the line of ice-cliffs between the SE. ridge and the NE. buttress, and it was at the higher end of the shelf that our Camp V (20,000 feet) was pitched. For some 2,000 feet above the shelf the ground, corresponding with the line of ice-cliffs on either hand, is very steep and broken, and it is here that most of the technical difficulties are met. Above 22,000 feet the angle eases, the crest of the SE. ridge is reached, and the way to the summit clear. I feel certain that this route, practicable in 1935, may alter considerably and frequently. The existence of three immense vertical crevasses splitting the steepest slope encountered (800 feet, some of it being steeper than 60 °), leads me to suspect that this section is likely to disappear, and with it the key to the climb. Immediately above it we found our track, made during the reconnaissance on the previous day, swept by a large fall of seracs—another instance of disintegration and change. On the other hand, the same forces which bring about these changes may make the same line easier, or, in closing that line, open up a route elsewhere. However it may be, I should not expect, another year, to be faced with passages in any way similar to those by which we ascended in 1935.

Weather and Snow Conditions.

Our first experience of bad weather was during the reconnaissances which took place from the 14th to the 20th May. Only one of these days, the 18th, was clear, snow, wind, and cloud making much of the work trying and difficult on the remaining days. Another period of bad weather, from the 20th to the 23rd May, was followed by only two fine days, the 24th and 25th, by which time we had established Camp II below the Likah col. A blizzard started about midday on the 26th, forcing us to make an involuntary camp in an exposed position on the Likah col, and this continued for five days (26^1-31 st incl.), causing severe discomfort, disorganizing the lowering of loads from the col to the glacier, and burying certain equipment, not to be recovered, under some three feet of fresh snow.

Between the 1st and 8th June we were treated to fair weather, but it was noticed that this invariably deteriorated about midday, by which time heavy clouds had rapidly blown up from the south, and snow fell for an hour or so every afternoon, sometimes not ceasing until evening. This was, of course, a serious handicap to our work, and curtailed an attempt by Waller and myself on the SE. ridge.

The second blizzard started on the 9th, and continued for four days (9th-i2th incl.). We had a typical half-clear day on the 13th, when Brotherhood rejoined us from the Bilafond.

A very clear morning on the 14th June decided us to proceed to Camp IV (at the foot of the shelf on the Peak 36 glacier). By 2 p.m., however, it was snowing, and by evening a blizzard was in progress. This continued uninterrupted till about midday on the 16th, when a sudden clearing permitted a short reconnaissance towards the lip of the shelf. The party concerned (Hunt and Pal ten) ploughed waist-deep in new snow, all of it in a dangerous condition on sleeper slopes, and an avalanche was dislodged. Light snow-fall then set in, and it was not clear when half the party set out on the 17th to establish Camp V; indeed, snow fell heavily until about 11 a.m., almost persuading them to give up the attempt. It cleared completely that evening, and the 18th and 19th were perfect days. We were at Camp VI by the evening of the 19th, in high hopes of reaching the summit next day. During this period the wind blew steadily from the east. The morning of the 20th was cloudless, but a change was noticed at about 11 a.m.⁴ A rim of clouds was seen rising beyond the Great Karakoram, and from then onwards conditions rapidly deteriorated. Clouds were seen blowing up over the SE. ridge from the south, and pouring over the Bilafond Wall into the Peak 36 glacier basin. Shortly before reaching the ridge we were met by blinding snow, and clouds were by now all round us. This was the prelude to the fourth blizzard, which set in during the night of the 20th, and continued, as far as we could judge, till the 24th.

It was noticeable that, in the periods of fair weather, the afternoon snow-storms affected only the south side of the peak, from which direction all the bad weather came. Practically the only completely clear days we had were 8th June, when Waller and I camped on Peak 36 glacier (heavy clouds surrounded the peak, but we were unaffected), and 18th and 19th June, during the assault.

Snow Conditions.

The conditions resulting from the two-days' blizzard which held us up in Camp IV could hardly have been worse. The fact that the prevailing wind, and that which brought all our bad weather, blew from the south, resulted in a very heavy snow deposit on the northern and eastern sides of the mountain. It no doubt also accounts for the glaciated condition of this face of Peak 36, in contrast to the bare, rocky aspect of the south face.

The state of the snow on the 17th and 18th June, when we moved to Camp V and continued the route further up the face, falls into a category described by G. W. Young in Mountain Craft. His words fit so exactly both its nature and the manner in which we struggled up it, that I quote:

Frothy snow, neither powdery nor wet ... is safe at almost any angle if it lies on a good sub-surface. But it is infinitely laborious. A step takes us up to our waist or shoulders. Progress is only possible by flogging a furrow up it with forearms and shins, which leaves a trail like an ecstatic sea-serpent. Some relief may be got by slapping down the shaft of the axe flatwise above us and crosswise to the line of advance, and pulling up on it as on a horizontal bar.

It only remains to add that we experienced these conditions between 18,000 and 22,000 feet, that certain slopes were inclined at rather more than 60and that we carried loads of 20 lb. each. On one slope, immediately above Camp V, the snow lay about 15 inches deep on ice. To have cleared the whole surface in order to cut steps in the ice would have been terribly exhausting work, but on the other hand it was only by levering with the arms forced up to the shoulder in the snow above him, that the leader was able to progress upwards without breaking through each step.

On the 19th, while moving up ground already tracked the day before, we dislodged two wind-slab avalanches. The depth of one was not more than eight inches, and this knocked over only the second man; but the other slide was a more serious affair, its blocks being at least a foot thick. Between these occurrences we had, of necessity, to pass over wind-slabbed snow which, though it bore us on the ascent that day, had of its own accord avalanched by the time of our descent some 30 hours later.

Above Camp VI the ground was, in a few places only, steep enough to avalanche, but we had to make one upward traverse on a steep slope in a thoroughly dangerous condition—it fortunately held. The height of this wind-slabbed slope was about 23,000 feet; and as it was under the lee of the SE. ridge it was sheltered from the wind blowing from the south.

The great interest of these details lies in the fact that wind-slab conditions had set in during the night of the 18th June, although no new snow fell during that time, and, as we could see from our tracks of the day before, there was not much deposit of blown snow. A wind sprang up during the night in question, which disturbed us in Camp V, and it therefore appears that the layer of snow deposited during the blizzard of the 14th to 16th June, though unquestionably safe on the 18th, was rendered unsafe by the superficial hardening action of the wind. Certainly wind action had very markedly altered the surface of the slopes up which our tracks had been made the day before.

Surely this brings into question the whole accepted theory as to the formation of wind-slabs? I should like to know what Mr. Arnold Lunn would have to say about this, for the slopes in question were not sheltered from the wind (the wind was blowing from the east till the 20th June and the whole surface was exposed to it); nor had there been any considerable new deposit on slopes which had been safe on the 18th.

On the Likah and Peak 36 glaciers, owing to the frequent snow-fall, typical spring conditions (marble-crust, &c.) were hardly met with. There were normally about three inches of new-fallen snow on a hard, or breakable, crust.

Conclusion.

Up to a height of over 22,000 feet the ascent of the east face of Peak 36 may be considered to be a snow and ice expedition of the first order. The formation of this face gives but small latitude in the line of advance; the severe angle of some of the slopes renders them troublesome in some conditions, dangerous in others. Moreover, this ground is considerably crevassed, and, as we experienced, exposed to falls of seracs from the bordering ice-cliffs, at one point at any rate. We found it advisable to fix one line on the slope giving access to the lip of the shelf (which, besides being very steep, was cut by an improperly bridged schrund), and another to simplify the descent of an immense crevasse which gave us some trouble below Camp VI. Parties establishing a Camp VII, and therefore bringing more porters over the difficult ground between V and VI, will certainly need to fix other ropes as well. Though crampons were not used on the assault itself, I feel that the long slope immediately above Camp V may well be in ice in settled weather conditions, in which case they might be useful. On the other hand, as steps would have to be cut in any case for porters, I think they do not justify the risk of frostbite entailed.

There is no doubt that four camps are required between the foot of the face and the summit, unless conditions are so much improved as to enable a future party to carry Camp VI at least 800 feet above the site taken by us. Waller's plan, excellent in every detail, allowed for this Camp VII, as also for two successive assaults on the summit, and a proper system of support from each camp. His calculations were upset by the weather, and the scheme was modified to an attempt from Camp VI, and by one assault party only, for this reason alone. As events proved, the change was entirely justified, but it must be clearly understood that in normal conditions it would be foolish to attempt to reach the summit from a camp placed below 23,000 feet; for it must be remembered that, in addition to vertical height, there is, as on Everest, a considerable horizontal distance to be covered.

 

 

APPENDIXES
INDEX

Boots ....	136	High-altitude ration .	139
Boots, non-freezing	136	Mattresses	136
Boots—temporary coolies .	137	Nails ....	136
Camera ....	141	Plan ....	134
Camps, detail of	135	Photography	141
Gash carried	140	Provisions	139
Cinema camera, sub-standard	142	Rations, high-altitude	139
Clothing—Europeans.	137	Rations, porters	139
Clothing, maximum worn .	137	Skis ....	137
Clothing—cooks, porters, coolies	137	Sledge . . .	138
Cooking equipment .	138	Sleeping-bags .	136
Costs ....	140	Snow-shoes	138
Crampons	137	Stores and rations	138
Equipment	135	Tents, comments on .	135
Exposure, photographic	142	Temperatures .	143
Exposure guide.	142	Transport	140
Films and filters	142	Transport, notes on .	141
Frost-bite....	136	Transport scale, table of	140
Fuel . . . .	138	Wages ....	140
Goggles ....	137	Windproofs	136

 

 

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APPENDIXES I
PLAN AND EQUIPMENT

i. Plan

In attempting to climb Peak 36 in 1935 the special points of the climbing plan were:

1. As small a party as possible (four Europeans and two Darjeeling porters).
2. The party was organized to carry out the plan effectively at the minimum cost. First-rate equipment only was used, and plans were made for a long stay on the mountain.
3. Base Camp was pitched at the head of the approach glacier instead of its foot.
4. Normal fresh food up to and including Base Camp (18,300 feet). Live sheep, eggs, and vegetables were taken up, but after a month on the mountain the quality had greatly deteriorated.
5. Little transport, with few stores, luxuries, and comforts. This entailed living on the country to a certain extent on the approach march, and almost entirely so during the return journey.
6. A minimum of porters and coolies above Base Camp. Two Darjeeling porters only for the assault. Therefore exceptionally light equipment and a scientific, Arctic-type, high-altitude food ration of between 1 lb. and 1J lb. a man a day.

 

2. Equipment

Detail of Camps

Camp	Height (approx.) (not measured)	Date of occupation	Tentage and where obtained
	feet
I	14,000	May 24	*Tarpaulin covered Sangar.
II	17,000	May 26	1 large coolie shelter.
III	18,000	May 27	No permanent tents.
IIIa	17,300	May 28	No permanent tents
		(½ Party)	(5 days’ blizzard).
		June 1
		(½ Party)
Base	18,300	June 4	*3 Meade tents for Europeans.
		(climbers)	1 Meade for porters.
		June 8(remainder)	1 Whymper for stores and
			1 European.
			1 Coolie shelter for cook.
			2 large coolie shelters.
IV	18,200	June 14	2 Meades (from Base Camp). Tents for Camps V and VI.
V	20,000	June 17	§3 8-lb. Burns tents.
		(½ party)	1 Aero-wing Mummery.
		June 18
		(rest)
VI ,	22,300	June 19	2 8-lb. tents from Camp V.
Attempt on Summit		June 20	Reached 24,500 feet.

 

Himalayan Club, Eastern Section, equipment on loan,
j" Kashmir General Agency, Srinagar, on hire.
Silver and Edgington, Eastcheap, London.
§ Robert Burns of Manchester.

 

Comments on Tents.

1. Doors not snow-proof. Sleeve entrances of Burns tents admirable, with the additional advantage of enabling tents to be joined together, end to end.
2. Windows useless and not snow-proof.
   
3. Ventilators unsatisfactory, noticed more in smaller than larger tents. Suggest half-cone ventilator, opening downwards, at the two ends of the tents above the entrances, and with a window inside the cone, so that the window can be laced into double overlaps.

Tent-pegs.

1. V section sheet iron, i-inch sides, 1 foot over-all length; 2 annas each in the Srinagar Bazaar. A general-utility peg, light, and strong enough for snow, but not for ice.
2. Ice piton 8 inches long for ice.
3. 30-inch bamboo pole for soft snow.

Only (a) used on Peak 36.

Sleeping-bags.

Europeans and porters. Double eiderdown type supplied by Burns. Weight 7 lb. The outer bag of oiled material was unsatisfactory owing to condensation; might well substitute a windproof bag. Possible extra 4 inches width advisable for large men.

Cooks. A rezai bag of similar design to Burns eiderdown bag. Weight 20 lb. (approx.). Cost Rs. 25. Satisfactory.

A wolf-skin bag, canvas-covered. Weight 15 to 18 lb. CostRs. 35 without cover. Requires additional blankets on snow. (N.B. This bag was actually used by myself up to 20,000 feet on Nun Kun, without blankets, but was not comfortable.)

Coolies. Twenty army blankets for seven coolies living in one tent. Cost Rs. 2/8 each second-hand in the bazaar in the Plains. Satisfactory.

Mattresses.

‘Li-Lo' pneumatic mattresses. Weight 3I lb. The standard model is apt to puncture, but the makers, C. B. Cow, Streatham Common, London, can provide special mountaineering models, which have been used in the Arctic. The insulation provided by the 'Li-Los' proved excellent, and their light weight and small bulk when deflated made them most easy to carry.

Cork mattresses. Borrowed from the Himalayan Club. Too bulky for higher transport.

Rezai mattresses. Cost about Rs. 5. Too bulky.

Boots.

Type. Probably any good type of Alpine boot i§ adequate. Unlined boots must be big enough to take three pairs of thick socks. Feet are apt to swell, with the result that boots which are big enough to take three pairs of socks at the beginning of a climb are uncomfortably cramped for two pairs at the end.

Nails. Nailing planned to reduce the conduction of heat from the feet proved unsuitable, owing to the penetration of the nails being insufficient to hold them in the soles. As many as 50 per cent, of the nails in a boot were lost during the first day on the moraine.

Non-freezing boots. Non-freezing boots were found unsatisfactory. A hot sun on the snow-fields resulted in permanently moist boots. The leather absorbed moisture which froze, so that although the leather may not have frozen, the result was identical. Wool-lined boots would probably also be unsatisfactory, as they would be difficult to dry out. We did not use them.

Porters. Porters should be given good boots. In our opinion a European- made boot costing at least £1 ioj. is advisable.

Frost-bite. To guard against frost-bite in deep snow Dr. Longstaff advises Wrapping pieces of blanket outside the boots, or making an external blanket boot.

Windproofs.

A good windproof was made from Silver and Edgington's Aero-wing canvas, at a cost of about £1 per suit. It is very light and of small bulk. Caution should be used in the employment of Aero-wing, and for exceptionally high winds a heavier material would be advisable.

Clothing—Europeans.

Type	Remarks
Shetland-wool sweaters Woollen underclothing	3 or 4 each (Lawrie, London).
Woollen socks	3 pairs to wear by day; 2 dry pairs by night + spares.
Thick sweaters	1 each. Wool with the natural oil still present. (Asdoo, Srinagar, Rs. 5.) Heavy for high altitudes.
Woollen gloves	Natural wool (Asdoo). A woollen glove alone is usually adequate, and even if snow-coated it retains the warmth in the hand. Quick wearing, so that spares are very necessary.
Gauntlets	Reinforced windproof material. (Leather freezes.)
Trousers	Anything from cord to ski-trousers, or even grey flannels. Looseness at waist and knees essential. (Worn under wind- proofs.)
Short puttees	Kashmir puttoo. Very elastic.

 

Maximum clothing worn at any one time:

Drill shirt.	Flannel vest.
Long woollen pants and vest.	Windproof suit with hood.
3 pairs socks.	Balaclava helmet.
3 Shetland wool sweaters.	2 pairs gloves.
Cord breeches.	Boots.
Thick sweater.	Remarks

 

Clothing—Cooks, Porters, and Permanent Coolies.

The March	The Climb
1 warm suit.	3 pairs socks.
2 pairs chaplis.	1 or 2 thick sweaters.
3 2 pairs leather socks.	Underclothes. Woollen gloves and gauntlets. Windproofs. Boots.

 

Goggles. Coolies were supplied with sun-glasses costing 5 annas in Srinagar. A Swiss-type goggle would have been more satisfactory.

Boots—Temporary Coolies. They used their own hide boots made locally. Mending material was supplied by us.

Skis. Proved very useful for reconnaissance purposes.

Crampons. Were rarely used owing to the quantity of new snow.

Sledge. Arctic pattern, fitted with ski-runners, proved a failure for the same reason.

Snow Shoes. Canadian pattern were taken but not used.

 

Cooking Equipment.

Up to and including Base Camp: 3 Primus stoves.

For the assault:

1 Demon stove for coolies. 3 No. 80 Meta stoves. 9 Tommy cookers.

 

Fuel

18 gallons kerosene (paraffin): Insufficient owing to forced leaking and having no soldering-tools. A small soldering-iron and some resin-cored solder would have been invaluable. (Weight lb.)

To avoid forced leaking, oil-tins should be opened every 2,000 feet rise. 2 petrol tins in one crate, locked, facilitate this.

50 boxes of 50 Meta tablets.

10 Tommy cookers.

Wood.

Note. Throughout the Kabru climb Mr. Cooke used a small Primus stove, for which he invented an aluminium protective shield, holding two saucepans one above the other. The resulting forced draught economized fuel, and altitude to 22,000 feet seemed to have little effect on the working of the stove.

 

 

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APPENDIXES II
STORES AND RATIONS

1. Stores were bought from the Kashmir General Agency, Srinagar.
2. Our excellent agent during our absence on the climb was Major J. H. Lander, Kashmir Express Co., Srinagar.
3. Stores bought in Kashmir pay Kashmir State duty. Prices in British India should consequently be lower.
4. The following list was designed to last four Europeans for three months' trek. On the way to the mountain (a fortnight) and before the climb (a further 10 days) we lived to a considerable extent off the country, but indulged in such luxuries as bacon, jam, white bread, puddings, and biscuits. Sardines were invaluable as a lunch dish. During the climb as far as Base Camp fresh food, as eggs, mutton, potatoes, and chappatis, was augmented with similar stores. Above Base Camp we lived on the high-altitude ration of 1 to 1 ½ lb. per day per man (eaten by all members of the party including coolies and porters). This was all tinned, and was augmented in Camp IV only by a few tins of tongue, sardines, herrings in tomato, and baked beans —practically our entire stock for the 3 months' trek. As a result of losses in blizzards few stores remained after the climb, and the homeward journey was made living almost entirely on the country. This did not cause much discomfort, as we still had tea, sugar and brown flour were obtainable, and dried apricots made quite a tasty jam. The hill butter, although strong, was found to be edible and to keep excellently (probably owing to its being difficult to distinguish shades of taste in such a flavoured food). In saying that we lived on the country it is not intended to give the impression that we did so in the sense of Shipton and Tilman's Nanda Devi exploration, where the extreme appears to have been reached. The party was actually out from Srinagar for 2 ½ months, while only one member stayed the full 3 months.

 

Ration supplied to Porters

½ lb. tea.	2 ½ lb. dal.
½ lb. salt.	4 lb. atta. (This figure is incorrect.)
10 lb. sugar.	35 packets cigarettes.
10 lb. rice.	Spices and meat.

 

Porters were rationed by us, the cook buying food as he needed it and bringing the book to the climber in charge for initialling. This list has been made out direct from the cook's book, and consequently cannot be relied on. It is supposed to represent one porter's food for one month.

2| oz. 2 oz.

i oz. 3i oz. 4! oz. 2J oz. ij oz. i oz. 1 oz.

High-Altitude Ration

Chocolate (Rowntree's Super-Creamy) .	2 ½ oz
Butter............................... ...... . .	2 oz
Syrup or treacle . . . .	½ oz
Raisins..... . . . . .	3 ½ oz
Ginger nut biscuits . . .	4 ½ oz
Cream powder (Glaxo) . . . .	2 ½ oz
Cheese (Glaxo Silver Bud Cheddar) . .	1 ¼ oz
Bacon ..... . . . . .	¾ oz
Sugar ..... . . . . .	1 oz

 

Notes on the High-Altitude Ration

1. Total daily ration weighs 1 lb. to 1J lb., as eaten in practice.
2. The food is mostly cold and needs little cooking.
3. Daily ration gives about 3,000 calories per man.
4. The ration is not intended to be used for a longer continuous period than a fortnight. (In practice it is monotonous and a week seems long enough.) If weight is not of prime importance other foods should be added to give variety.
5. Ginger nuts as the sole biscuits become wearisome, besides making difficult the job of spreading 2 oz. of butter and J oz. of treacle daily.
6. Treacle is preferable to Colden Syrup as it is very much less likely to freeze.
7. Porters had an additional ration of 3 oz. tsampa daily.
8. The ration kept the party in excellent health. Its lack of bulk is advantageous to tired men.

 

 

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APPENDIXES III
1. WAGES

Darjeeling Porters. Below Camp I: 12 annas a day.

Above Camp I: R. 1 a day.

Coolies.

For the march .... . .	½ anna a mile. Baksheesh at 2 annas per 20 miles.
Temporary coolies on the climb	R. 1 a day (for 3 days' work).
Permanent coolies on the climb	12 annas a day to Base Camp. R. 1 a day, higher.
Baksheesh on climb . . .	One-third pay.
Village Lambadars for arranging transport:	12 annas to R. 1.

 

(Cash carried by party: Rs. 2,200.)

2. COSTS

The cost of an expedition of this sort should not be more than Rs. 2,000 per European member, including all personal kit and simple photographic and scientific apparatus, but exclusive of rail and steamer fares. A saving can sometimes be made by obtaining remission of Indian customs duties. This does not appear to be simple for climbers resident in India, although the privilege is sometimes granted to expeditions visiting the Himalayas from Europe.

 

 

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APPENDIXES IV
TRANSPORT

Table to Show the Scale of Transport Employed

(i) The approach march.	70 coolie loads of 50 lb. each.
(2) The climb to Base Camp.	50 loads of 40 to 50 lb. 1 month's normal stores, and 3 weeks' high-altitude ration.
Camp I to Camp II.	50 coolies.
Camp II to Camp III.	25 coolies in 2 relays.
Camp III to Camp IIIa.	Loads lowered by rope, mostly by the 4 Europeans and 2 Darjeeling porters.
Camp IIIa to Base Camp.	7 local coolies; 2 porters; 4 Europeans. Coolies worked 1 week, porters 3 days, Europeans 1 day.
(3) The assault above Base.	14 days' food, and 5 days for reconnaissances
Base to Camp IV.	Europeans, 5 coolies, 2 porters.
Camp IV to Camp V.	Europeans, 3 coolies, 2 porters, in 2 relays.
Camp V to Camp VI.	3 Europeans, 1 coolie, 2 porters.

 

Notes

* The approach march.

General.

1. It was planned that the Europeans, assisted only by the two porters, should do their own carrying above Base Camp. This was undoubtedly a mistake, owing to fatigue caused, even with the transport actually employed. Six Darjeeling porters would be an improvement at very little extra cost.
2. The Base Camp position at the head of the Likah glacier was amply justified. The party was independent of communications below Base, resulting in a considerable saving in tentage, and so of weight to be carried.
3. The use of a small number of coolies on the approach march caused no harmful effects in the valleys traversed, as may occur during the passage of a large body of coolies, whose feeding requirements cannot be easily met. The inhabitants are poor and little more than just self-supporting.
4. A small body of coolies is less apt to cause trouble than a large one. Perspnal contact between coolie and employer is more easy to establish; and the motto of fairness with firmness, combined with personal friendship throughout the party (especially with regard to the permanent team on the mountain) is easily attained.
5. It is unnecessary for a small expedition to obtain the services of an agent near the mountain, as all arrangements can easily be made with the villagers themselves. If an agent should be deemed a necessity by an expedition, a local government official (e.g. postmaster) is likely to be reasonably honest. The Missionaries at Shigar and Skardu are charming people, with an incomparable knowledge of the country, and always ready to help.
6. The Zoji La, Deosai Plains, and Gilgit Road are closed during the winter. A saving can be effected by sending all heavy baggage ahead during the previous summer.
7. Double marches can be carried out in the Indus valley area of approach by changing coolies at midday and camping between stages, instead of the normal method of camping at a coolie-changing stage.

 

 

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APPENDIXES V
PHOTOGRAPHY

Camera.

Any good type of hand camera gives good results. A Zeiss Contax or Leitz Leica, with automatic focusing, interchangeable lenses, automatic film winding, focal plane shutter, and using 35 mm. cinema film, is admirable. A comparatively long focal-length lens usually gives the most impressive results, owing to improved perspective.

Films and Filters.

A panchromatic film with a filter makes good photos. A red filter, while rendering the sky too dark, gives the best texture in snow. A yellow filter gives the most 'natural* result, although the increased contrast with a red filter often gives a photograph more expressive of the spirit of the scene. A red filter can often be used with advantage in the Karakoram valleys, where shadows on the great rock walls are thrown into greater relief with the high lights, where the sun meets the faces; while the darkening of the sky to a fairly deep grey tends to emphasize the subject-matter.

Exposure.

A photo-electric meter, used in conjunction with the filter with which the photo is going to be exposed, ensures correct exposure.

A portable dark-room box is valuable in enabling test exposures to be developed on the spot, during rest hours.

Table: Exposure Guide

Circumstances: Month: June. Film: Kodak Panatomic. Time: 10.30 a.m. to 4.0 p.m. Conditions: Normal (i.e. bright sun, figures or tents not too far distant, landscape background).

Normal in Karakoram valleys . . . .	1/100 sec. at f. 11
Normal on snow	1 /200 sec. at f. 22
Distant view with light foreground	¼ normal exposure
Portraits, groups ....	4 times normal
Dull weather .....	4 times normal
But a light mist on snow	Normal

 

All the above are without a filter. A suitable red filter increases the exposure 4 to 10 times according to make and film. A suitable yellow filter with panchromatic film increases the exposure 2 to 4 times.

Sub-standard Cinema Cameras.

It should be realized that the cheap cinema camera is not built for light of such intensity as is found on the Karakoram snows. A deep-red filter, giving an exposure increase of about 10 times, should make all the difference. It is worth noting that, owing to the different emulsion, a red filter which only has a 4-times factor with Panatomic film has a 10-times factor with Kodak Cinema Film (reversible), but a 4-times factor with Supersensitive Cinema Film (reversible). A more expensive type of camera, having variable shutter speeds as well as variable film speeds, as in the Zeiss Movikon and the Kodak Special, may be expected to give the best results.

 

 

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APPENDIXES VI
RECORD OF TEMPERATURES

By Dr. J. S. Carslaw

Date	Camp	Inside tent		Outside tent
		Day	Night	Night
May 23	Khorkondus	..	33	..
24	Camp I	..	25	..
25	Camp I	..	28	..
26	Camp II	..	20	..
27	Camp III	..	10	..
28	Thermometer lost between Camps IIIand IIIA
29
30
31
June 1	Camp IIIA	..	10	2
2	Camp IIIA	..	9	2
3	Camp IIIA	..	10	2
4	Base Camp	..	3	-14
5	Base Camp	..	0	-8
6	Base Camp	..	7	0
7	Base Camp	..	4	-2
8	Base Camp	..	6	-2
9	Base Camp	..	10	-2
10	Base Camp	..	6	-2
11	Base Camp	28	4	-2
12	Base Camp	35	7	0
13	Base Camp	35	8	2
14		No thermometer above Base Camp
15
16
17
18
19
20
21	Base Camp	45	18	10
22	Base Camp	40	10	2
23	Camp I	..	38	32

 

All temperatures in degrees Fahrenheit.

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