CLUB PROCEEDINGS

THE HIMALAYAN JOURNAL
RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB
EDITED BY
KENNETH MASON

^c To encourage and assist Himalayan travel and exploration, and to extend knowledge of the Himalaya and adjoin¬ing mountain ranges through science, art, literature, and sport?

VOLUME IX
1937

OXFORD
AT THE CLARENDON PRESS
LONDON : HUMPHREY MILFORD

 

THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

 

President:
H.E. SIR HARRY HAIG.

Vice-Presidents:
A. H. LLOYD, ESQ.
G. B. GOURLAY, ESQ.

Honorary Secretary:
CAPTAIN G. R. T. WILMOT.

Honorary Local Secretaries:
KASHMIR. MAJOR K. C. HADOW.
F. LUDLOW, ESQ,.
CHAMBA. LT.—COL. H. S. STRONG.
KUMAUN. CAPTAIN R. J. LAWDER.
GARHWAL. P. MASON, ESQ.
DARJEELING. J. W. KYDD, ESQ.
EASTERN SECTION. MRS. H. P. V. TOWNEND.

Honorary Editor:
LT.—COLONEL KENNETH MASON.

Honorary Treasurer:
A. H. BYRT, ESQ.

Committee:

W. ALLSUP, ESQ,. CAPTAIN E. ST. J. BIRNIE DR. A. M. HERON. COLONEL C. G. LEWIS. J. S. H. SHATTOCK, ESQ.

J. B. SHEARER, ESQ. E. O. SHEBBEARE, ESQ. DR. P. C. VISSER. K. L. H. WADLEY, ESQ. LT.—COL. J. L. R. WEIR.

 

Additional Members of the Balloting Committee:

J. G. ACHESON, ESQ. CAPTAIN J. F. BLACKDEN. L. R. FAWCUS, ESQ,. MAJOR J. R. FOY. J. S. HANNAH, ESQ,.

LT.—COL. SIR S. HISSAM-UD-DIN. A. A. MARR, ESQ,. BRIGADIER A. L. M. MOLESWORTH CAPTAIN G. S. NANGLE. MAJOR G. H. OSMASTON.

 

Reprinted from the original edition
published by Oxford University Press,
Indian Branch, on behalf of the Himalayan Club
by arrangement with the publishers.

 

The Ninth Annual General Meeting of the Himalayan Club was held in the Army Head-quarters Officers' Library, Imperial Secretariat, New Delhi, on Wednesday, the 24th February 1937, at 9.15 a.m. Mr. A. H. Lloyd, Vice-President, was in the Chair.

The Report of the Honorary Secretary, Major E. A. L. Gueter- bock, who is retiring from the post, was presented and accepted. This Report, which had been circulated to Members before the Meeting, is printed below.

The Club Accounts for the year 1936 were presented by the Honorary Treasurer, Mr. A. H. Byrt, and confirmed. Mr. Byrt gave a detailed statement regarding the financial position of the Club, which was considered strong. The Officers, Members of the Committee, and Additional Members of the Balloting Committee for the year 1937 were elected, and Messrs. A. F. Ferguson & Co. were reappointed Auditors to the Club.

 

Report on the Work of the Club in the Year 1936

By the Honorary Secretary

Membership.—The increase in membershiphascontinued although again this year a large number of members have been struck off the Club roll for non-payment of subscriptions. Sixty new members were elected during 1936, while there were 6 deaths and 4 resignations. Seventeen members were struck off the Club roll owing to their subscriptions' being in arrears.

The membership now stands at 428, an increase of 33 over last year.

Many members still fail to give their home address whilst on leave or change of address at home or in India. The Honorary Secretary has many copies of the Himalayan Journal 1936 in his possession marked 'on leave', 'left India'.

Honorary Members.—The Committee elected Brigadier-General the Hon. C. G. Bruce an Honorary Member of the Club and Mr. A. E. Jones an Associate Member. Mr. Jones is a great authority on Himalayan birds, butterflies, &c. Letters of appreciation were received by the Honorary Secretary from both gentlemen.

Obituary.—We mourn the death of several members of the Club:

Mr. Douglas Freshfield, who was a founder member. (Mr. Fresh- field died in 1934, but his death was only reported to the Honorary Secretary early in 1936.)

Mr. W. S. Talbot, i.c.s. (retired).

Dr. J. Hutchison, our local Secretary in Chamba.

Mr. W. M. O'Hara, killed in an aeroplane accident in West Australia.

H.H. Sir Shuja-ul-Mulk, Mehtar of Chitral.

Major J. B. P. Seccombe, who was killed in action on the North- West Frontier on the 25th November 1936.

Candidates for Membership.—The committee discussed the question of 'Agents' (in the Kashmir sense of the word) joining the club in their personal, and not professional, capacity. This matter rests finally in the hands of the Balloting Committee under the Articles of Association of the Club. The committee realized that the Honorary Secretary was often asked to recommend 'Agents' to leaders of expeditions and that his choice would be embarrassed if he had to show preference for members of the club. It was decided that the Honorary Secretary should therefore discourage such candidates on these grounds.

General activities of the Club.—The Himalayan Club has attained a position of considerable importance and responsibility in the organization of large expeditions. Foreign climbing parties use the Club as a clearing-house for information, and several members of these large expeditions have joined the Club. All expeditions which require Sherpa or Bhutia porters are to a great extent dependent on the Eastern Section's arrangements at Darjeeling; the provision of liaison officers is another matter in which the Club assists foreign expeditions. Finally the Club performs valuable service as an unofficial method of approaching the Government of India in such matters as finding out whether certain expeditions would be allowed, customs regulations, policy governing the duties of liaison officers, &c.

The Club has a special position in the organization of Everest expeditions, as it has a representative on the Mount Everest Committee¹ and subscribed both as a club and individually to the last expedition.

Other important activities of the Club include the compilation of route books, dissemination of topographical information, provision of equipment, maintenance of a hut, and putting prospective climbers or travellers in touch with one another.

The secretarial work involved has necessitated the provision of a small paid staff in the Eastern Section.

Himalayan Mountaineering in 1936.—The year 1936 was memorable not only for the number of expeditions and the diversity of nationalities involved but also for the results achieved. The failures on Everest and Gasherbrum I are to be regretted but they are counterbalanced by successes on Nanda Devi, Siniolchu, Simvu, and Nanda Kot. A few years ago Nanda Devi was considered inaccessible.

 

Major Expeditions in i 936. Mount Everest.—The Glub subscribed a total of Rs. 4,645, of which Rs. 2,000 was paid from club funds. Most of the balance was obtained through the personal efforts of the late President, Sir Herbert Emerson. A letter of grateful thanks was received from the Mount Everest Committee.

The failure of the expedition to reach the summit aroused widespread sympathy and many suggestions for improvements in tactics. The Club Committee have put forward certain views to be advanced by Major-General R. G. Wilson, the Club's representative on the Mount Everest Committee.

Nanda Devi.—This peak was climbed by an Anglo-American party led by Professor T. Graham Brown. The party had to do most of their own porterage between higher camps. The summit was reached by Mr. Odell and Mr. Tilman on the 29th August. The Honorary Secretary sent a telegram of congratulations and received a letter of thanks from the leader.

Siniolchu and Simvu.—Herr Paul Bauer's party succeeded in climbing Siniolchu and the North Peak of Simvu, both difficult ascents.

Gasherbrum I ('Hidden Peak'), Karakoram.—A large French party, led by H. de Segogne, attempted Gasherbrum I. Bad weather and the difficulty of establishing a porters' route up the rocky spur leading to the upper parts of the mountain forced them to abandon the attempt. By the request of the organizers of the expedition, the Himalayan Glub provided a liaison officer, Lieut. N. R. Streatfield, r.a.

Nanda Kot.—The first Japanese expedition to the Himalaya was led by Mr. Hoha and succeeded in reaching the summit of Nanda Kot. A telegram of congratulations was sent on behalf of the Club and one of thanks received.¹

Central Himalayan Geology.—According to press reports, important geological discoveries were made in the Badrinath area by a Swiss expedition consisting of Drs. Arnold Heim and A. Gansser.

Eastern Himalayan Biology and Botany.—Messrs. F. Ludlow and G. Sherriff spent several months in the Eastern Himalaya once more, and it is understood collected some interesting specimens.

Other Expeditions. MalikaParbat (Kagan Valley).—Messrs. R. G. and J. G. Orgill made the second ascent (?) of this mountain.

Lama Anden and Lachsi.—Flt.—Lt. R. K. Hamblin and Mr. J. R. G.

Finch attempted Lama Anden but were driven down by impossible snow conditions. They were finally stopped on Lachsi by a gap in the west ridge at about 20,000 feet. They brought back some interesting topographical information.

South of Dras (.Ladakh).—Major E. Gueterbock and Mr. E. H. Marriott did some new small climbs in the region of the Machai peak and the Shangsha basin, and made a sketch-map of a poorly surveyed district.

Karpo La, Donkhya La, &c.—Gapt. Sams, r.e., of the Survey of India, made a long tour of northern Sikkim, sketching, taking photos, and making topographical notes. He thinks he has discovered the position of the Karpo La.

Guicha La, Z^emu Gap, and Talung Valley.—Mr. Tilman crossed the Guicha La, explored the approach to the Zemu Gap, and made his way into the Tista valley via the difficult Talung valley.

Borum La, Sebo La, &c.—Mrs. Townend and Mrs. O. M. Martin crossed the Borum La from the Lachung valley into the Lachen valley, the Sebo La back again to Mome Samdong (the site of the new hut), and from there made their way eastwards over a snow col into the Sebo Chu valley.

Simvu and the Zemu valley.—Mr. Marco Pallis and party attempted to climb the north-east peak of Simvu, but did not succeed in reaching the summit.

Fluted Peak and Peak near the Pyramid.—Messrs. J. B. Harrison, J. K. Cooke, and F. Spencer Chapman climbed a peak near the Pyramid, which they suggest should be called 'The Sphinx', and also reached the top of the Fluted peak.

Lama Anden and Chomiomo.—Mr. M. W. White spent six weeks in Sikkim. He hoped to try Lama Anden, but was foiled by heavy snow. He attempted Chomiomo from the south-west, but found it impossible. He then crossed the Sebo La to Mome Samdong and the Borum La back into the Lachen valley.

Lhonak La and Lhonak Chu Valley.—Mr. and Mrs. O. M. Martin, Dr. and Mrs. W. A. Jenkins, Mr. and Mrs. H. P. V. Townend, and Mr. A. Wooller crossed the Lhonak La in deep snow, and abandoning the plan of crossing the The La into the Zemu Chu valley, because of unusually early snow, they made their way down the beautiful valley of the Lhonak Chu instead.

Donkhya La, Gordamah Lake, and Sebo La.—Messrs. J. Leslie, J. B. Morrison, and E. Catto did some weeks' minor rough climbing round these regions, making the recently completed Himalayan Club Hut their base.

Dzongri and the Guicha La.—Messrs. H. C. W. Bishop, A. T. Taylor, F. D. C. Sumner, and friends visited Dzongri and the Guicha La.

Zemu Valley.—Mr. E. G. Marklew spent some time in the upper part of the Zemu valley doing a reconnaissance for a possible climb in the future.

Expeditions in 1937: German.—Dr. Karl Wien will lead a German expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1937.

Miscellaneous.—Lieut. H. B. Hudson, 15th Punjab Regiment, Thai, N.W.F.P., hopes to do a trip to the Kohistan border and passes from the Kagan range to Kashmir and across the Pir Panjal. He hopes to start in April and would be pleased to hear from members who wish to join the party. He further states that he hopes to be going to Tibet with the Trade Agent's escort next year and, if so, will be able to put up people who are going there on trek. He will be at Gyantse.

Lieut. J. Waller, R.A. Mess, Jhansi, would like a companion for a single climb in June, July, and August. Complete party to be 2 climbers with a few porters.

Expeditions in 1938.—In 1938 there will probably be a German expedition to Kangchenjunga, a French expedition to Gasherbrum I, and a Japanese one to the Karakoram. In all probability the Himalayan Glub will be asked to select liaison officers. Any member who would like to be considered should send in his name to the Honorary Secretary.

Darjeeling Porters.—The General Meeting held on the 21st February 1936 decided the rules for the employment of high-altitude porters, leaving all details to the Eastern Section. Applications for porters should be addressed to the Honorary Local Secretary, Darjeeling, Mr. J. W. Kydd.¹

Eastern Section.—There are now 106 members in the Eastern Section, most of them resident in Calcutta. Five more applications for membership have just been received.

By the courtesy of Dr. A. M. Heron and other members of the Geological Survey of India, the equipment has been kept in their office, mostly in different members' personal rooms. With the increased stock and use of equipment, it has become apparent that it was inconvenient to continue the arrangement, and application was made to the Central Committee for permission to rent a room for the Club. It was not easy to find a suitable place, as it had to be centrally situated in order that the officers of the Glub as well as members could get to it quickly, and at the same time it was necessary to have some space where tents could be aired and pitched. On his return from leave Dr. Heron kindly arranged that a portion of a godown on the ground-floor of the Geological Survey office should be put at the disposal of the Himalayan Club. This offer has been gratefully accepted by the Eastern Section Committee.

 

The Eastern Section branch of the Library is also housed at the Geological Survey Office.

The Porters' Register and issue of Himalayan Club Chit Books has been continued most successfully; it is gratifying that members of both major and minor mountaineering expeditions have found this system useful. Our thanks are due to them for the help they have given in sending in photographs and reports of their porters. Every porter is now allotted a number; and a small brass disk, with H.C. and the number on it, is issued to each of them. Reports received about the Darjeeling porters have, with very few exceptions, been most satisfactory. Some of the new untried young Sherpas who went on the French expedition did extraordinarily well, as they did also on Mount Everest and with Herr Paul Bauer. There is great keenness amongst the porters to go to Nanga Parbat next year with the German expedition.

There have been several Club dinners and lectures during the year. Captain Kingdon Ward dined with the Club on the 27th December 1935 and gave an interesting account, illustrated by excellent slides, of his recent travels in Tibet. On the 20th January 1936 Mr. Cooke gave an account of his ascent of Kabru, after a dinner at which he and his wife were the guests of honour. During February there were two after-dinner lectures. Capt. Gregory showed slides illustrating the journey from Srinagar to the Shy ok glacier and at the same time gave some interesting hints on mountain photography, on the 10th February. A few days later, on the 13th, Capt. Davie showed a film, a large part of it in colour, of a tour through Bhutan, on which he accompanied His Excellency Sir John Anderson. This lecture was held at the house of the Royal Asiatic Society of Bengal, by the kind permission of the Council, and over a hundred members and guests were present.

Mr. Ruttledge was good enough to spare his only evening in Calcutta, the 15th July, on his return from Mount Everest, to dine with the Club and tell us about the expedition. Major Morris, Mr. Kempson, and Mr. Wigram were also present at the dinner.

Herr Paul Bauer kindly brought with him from Germany, at our special request, slides of his two attempts on Kangchenjunga in 1929 and 1931. He dined with the Club on the 5th August and gave us a most interesting lecture. Unfortunately his companions had not arrived, so could not be present.

On the 14th September Mr. John Auden gave a splendidly illustrated lecture on 'Glaciers'.

A new venture for the Eastern Section was made on the 24^th February when an Exhibition of Photographs was held, by the kind permission of the Geological Survey of India, in their Lecture Room. About 250 photographs were exhibited, the larger number of them being of Sikkim and Eastern Tibet. Over 100 people attended the Exhibition, and, by special request and the kind consent of Dr. Heron, it was left open all the week, and several people visited it. Dr. Heron, Vice-President of the Himalayan Club, gave a dinner before the Exhibition to Mr. Ruttledge and other members of the Mount Everest expedition who had just arrived from England.

The Club Hut at Mome Samdong has been built and was made use of by some members this autumn. It is hoped that the second hut will be built next year. Rai Sahib Faqir Ghand Jali, State Engineer of Sikkim, with the approval of H.H. the Maharaja, arranged for the building of the hut and has promised to do the same for the next one.

There have been a great many parties both climbing and trekking in Sikkim this year. There is no doubt that the equipment is of value in helping members to arrange these expeditions, and such requests are increasing each year, from members visiting both Sikkim and Kashmir.

It has been a great pleasure to members of the Club to meet so many travellers and mountaineers, to entertain them and to put them up.

It is hoped that Mr. Gourlay will continue to serve on the Eastern Section Committee till he leaves Calcutta at the end of February, and Mr. Gee and Mr. Cooke till they go on leave in the spring. Mr. Auden is away from Calcutta till he goes on leave, so he will not be able to serve. Mr. E. O. Shebbeare retired from the Eastern Section Committee at the end of 1935 on leaving Bengal, and Mr. P. G. Duncan on going on leave. Mr. Gardiner joined the Committee when he undertook to edit the Eastern Section Route Book. He is carrying on with this work at Dehra Dun. Mrs. H. P. V. Townend will be on leave from the 24th March till the end of October 1937. No one has at present been appointed to act in her absence.

Library.—During the year under review 126 books were issued to members as compared with the 73 issued during 1935. The rise in the issue of books is perhaps due to the fact that an up-to-date edition of the catalogue of books in the library was prepared and circulated to the members at the beginning of the year.

We added 34 books during the year, out of which 13 were purchased from the library funds and 21 were received as presentation copies. Our thanks are due to all those who have been taking interest in the library and sending complimentary copies of their publications.

A list of such books is being published separately as Supplement 1936 of the Club Library Catalogue. The Supplement includes for the convenience of members an Appendix giving the dates of publication of such books as were omitted in the original Catalogue.¹

About 50 books were selected and transferred to the Himalayan Club Library, Eastern Section. The number mostly consisted of duplicate books and those particularly dealing with the Eastern Himalaya. A list of these and other books in the Eastern Section Library is also included in the Supplement.

Journal.—The Committee again desire to congratulate Colonel Mason, the Honorary Editor, on the high standard that the Journal is maintaining.

Any members requiring extra copies or back numbers of the Journal should write to the Clarendon Press, Oxford, or the Oxford University Press, Nicol Road, Bombay. Members are requested not to ask the Honorary Secretary for Journals as no copies are held by him.

Himalayan Bibliography.—An interesting note appears in Die Alfien, xii (7), for July 1936. M. Marcel Kurz has made out a list of publications issued between 1933 and 1935 dealing with Himalayan travel and climbing. A full list up to 1933 is contained in Himalaya-Bibliographie, published by the 'Alpenvereins Bucherei' at Munich. Copies have been ordered for the Club Library. A supplementary list of references is given in the Die Alpen of October 1936, vol. xii, no. 10, p. 400.

Himalayan Nomenclature.—The following letter No. d. o. 291 -T, dated the 1st October 1936, has been received from Brigadier H. J. Couchman, d.s.o., m.c., Surveyor-General of India.

'As you are perhaps aware, the question of the entry of names invented by explorers and others for peaks and other features of the mountain systems to the north of India on maps published by the Survey of India is one on which there has been occasional controversy.

' The practice of the Survey of India in the past has been that no names should be entered on its maps, of areas for which it considers itself responsible, unless they have been found to be of local or at least indigenous origin. It has admittedly departed from this practice in the case of Mount Everest, but it will be generally agreed that the highest mountain in the world is entitled to special treatment, especially when the result was so euphonious. In the absence of a local or indigenous name, the old practice was to allot a symbol, usually a letter and a number. This practice has, however, been abandoned on our maps for many years except in the case of K² which, as probably the second highest mountain, is perhaps also entitled to special treatment.

 

' This practice has had two results, one favourable, the other unfavourable. The favourable result is that there has been no temptation to give personal names to peaks, the embarrassment of selection of the person to be so honoured has been avoided, and the situation, not unknown, of the name of a peak being changed because the reputation of its owner had lessened, has not occurred.

‘The Survey of India will always be grateful to its predecessors for this result.

'The unfavourable result is that owing to absence of local or indigenous names in these sparsely inhabited areas our maps are undoubtedly deficient in names. With the ever-increasing growth of Himalayan travel this defect is becoming of increasing prominence.

'The position has therefore been examined, and it has been decided that the embargo on invented, other than personal, names, should be removed.

‘Invented names will be accepted by the Survey of India for its maps taking into consideration the following points:

1. Lack of local names in the vicinity.
2. Suitability of the names.
3. When applicable, the degree of currency among climbers and explorers that they have already obtained.
4. Personal names will not be accepted.

' Suitability is difficult to define, but entirely fanciful or humorous names will not be acceptable. Well-known English names of peaks, such as those in the Karakoram and the Sikkim Himalaya, will be considered for adoption at once.

'You will no doubt agree that this change in policy should be brought to the notice of travellers, and I would request your assistance in doing so, either by publication of this letter or by a reference to its contents.

'The Survey of India will be grateful to past, present, and future explorers for any suggestions they may care to make. As regards the language of the names we should prefer that English names be confined to the more popular climbing centres. In the lesser-known regions explorers are requested to suggest names freely after consultation with their local guides or coolies—Nalas, cols, glaciers, and peaks may be named after some local pasturage or other existing name, or may be invented with reference, say, to shape, colour, or some other distinctive feature. Such names should normally be given in the local vernacular and should be pointed out to the local people so that they may the more rapidly gain currency. English names should be given sparingly in areas which are likely to be unimportant from a mountaineering point of view.

'Explorers are requested to report their proposed names with sketches or annotated copies of Survey of India maps to me either direct or through you. In sending in reports full details should be given of the reasons for the proposed names, with meanings in English, and the local language adopted.’

Himalayan Route Books.—The Club has now taken over full responsibility for the printing and issue of all future editions of Himalayan Route Books. When taking over the copyright the Club also purchased for Rs. 500 the remaining stock of vol. i. In order that this will not be a dead loss to the Club, the Committee hopes that purchasers will be found for this volume at Rs. 1/8 per copy.

Editors have been asked to produce their manuscript by October 1937 to the co-ordinating editor. It is intended to publish the route books in a handy form for use as guide books and of a .size which will allow them to be carried in a pocket.

Miscellaneous.—Mr. Eric Ship ton gave an interesting lecture in Simla, under the auspices of the Himalayan Club and United Service Institution, on the Reconnaissance Expedition of 1935 and the Everest Expedition of 1936. He traced the history of the attacks on Everest from the earliest expedition and his most interesting lecture was warmly received.

In view of the many changes to the Club rules the Committee has decided to reprint and issue a copy to each member.

Members out of India should remember that the annual subscription, with effect from the 1st January 1937, is ten shillings.

Mr. P. Mason, i.c.s., Deputy Commissioner, Garhwal, has kindly consented to furnish information to any members travelling in that district. He is often on tour, so quick replies should not be expected. The Committee much appreciate Mr. Mason's offer.

On the departure of Major E. A. L. Gueterbock, the Honorary Secretary, to England in January 1937 the Committee appointed Captain C. R. T. Wilmot in his place under Rule 38.

Employment of Porters through the Himalayan Club

Rules have now been laid down by the Central Committee and by the Committee of the Eastern Section of the Himalayan Club for the employment of porters. A list of registered porters is kept by the Eastern Section, and registered porters are in possession of numbered disks and ^£chit books' issued by the Glub. In the interests of all it is to be hoped that travellers will co-operate in adhering to the letter and spirit of the rules. At the end of the rules are published an advisory list of porters' kit for high altitudes and sample scales of rations for porters and others. Copies of these rules and lists can be obtained from the Honorary Secretary of the Glub or the Honorary Secretary, Eastern Section.

(r) Rules for the employment of high-altitude porters for journeys in the Himalaya (passed by the Central Committee of the Himalayan Club, 1936)

1. On receipt of written applications specifying the number of high-altitude porters required and the probable duration of their engagement, the Himalayan Glub will do its best to assist members and others to engage porters. Applicants will be held to agree that the Club incurs no legal responsibility whatever towards either party to the contract.
2. The Club is interested in keeping rates for porters to reasonable amounts, and it therefore stipulates that those who seek its assistance will not only undertake to see that porters are provided with full equipment but will also contract with them for suitable rates of pay, rations, and compensation.
3. Suitable rates of pay, rations, compensation, and scales of equipment will be laid down by the Eastern Section, Himalayan Glub, in accordance with local conditions.

(2) Regulations laid down by the Eastern Section (in accordance with Rule 3 above)

1. Porters must be paid reasonable travelling expenses from and to Darjeeling.
2. Up to the snow-line rates for porters are 12 as. a day, with full rations, or R. 1 without rations.
3. Above the snow-line porters should be paid R. 1 and full rations.
4. Compensation should be paid to the porters or their next of kin for injury or death resulting from participation in an expedition at the following rates:

(a) Injury: Partial or whole loss of a finger or toe-Rs. 30 for the first, and Rs. 10 for each other finger or toe.

 

In addition to such compensation, a subsistence allowance of Rs. i o per month must be paid to any porter who is incapacitated from work through accident or frost-bite on an expedition, for a period up to a maximum of six months.

(b) Death: Married man—Rs. 500.

Single man—Rs. 200.

(7) Equipment. Each porter should be in possession of the following equipment for work above the snow-line:

(8) Baksheesh. Baksheesh for ordinary good work should be given at the rate of 10 to 15 per cent, of the porter's wages. This may be increased for exceptional cases.

(3) Advisory List of Porter's Kit for High-altitude Climbing

1 pair army or other cheap boots for march out (cost about Rs. 8 to 10) 1 windproof suit with hood, aero-wing canvas or similar material (cost about Rs. 30) Double-quilted sleeping-bag, with kapok or other lining 1 woollen coat 1 woollen or flannel trousers (extra pair if cold) 1 pair puttoo short puttees 1 Balaclava or fur cap (Kashmir pattern) 1 blanket for the march

1 heavy shirt 1 thick woollen vest 1 pair thick pants 2 thick sweaters (good cheap ones are obtainable in Kashmir) (an extra one if very cold) 1 pair European climbing-boots well nailed 2 pairs woollen mitts 1 pair gauntlet windproof mitts or better 1 pair large sheepskin gauntlets 1 pair goggles 1 ice-axe 1 pair crampons (recommended)

The above are in addition to the porter's own incidental clothing.

 

(4) Specimen Lists of Rations for Porters

The following are specimen lists of rations which have been found suitable for Darjeeling porters.

(a) High Altitude.

Everest 1933		Cooke and Waller
Pemmican .	oz 2	Pemmican	Oz2
Meat (tinned)	4	Fresh meat, bacon, hump, bully beef, or tinned meats	6
Tsampa or pea flour	2	Sardines, herrings	2
Biscuits	4	Tsampa, porridge, or biscuit	8
Jam .	4	Sugar-treacle, jam, or chocolate	3
Sweets (assorted)	2	Raisins, prunes, or dried fruit	3
Chocolate .	2	. Ovaltine and tea	1
Ovaltine	2	Milk (Nestle's or dried)	3
Nestie's milk	6	Butter	2
Butter	2
	Total 30		Total 30
Add a small ration of tea and sugar		Alternative rations are given as it is considered beneficial to vary the diet

 

(b) General Climbing and Travel in Sikkim.

	General climbing (G. B. Gourlay)	Travel below 18,000 feet (Nursing Sirdar)
	oz.	oz.
Atta .	8	..
Rice .	20	16
Dal .	4	2
Salt . .	½	1
Ghi .	2	1
Sugar.	½	2
Tea .	½	1
Spices	½	1
	36	24
Fresh meat.	occasionally	occasionally

 

(5) Specimen Lists of Rations for Others

It may be convenient to add here some specimen lists of rations for others who may be engaged for exploration in uninhabited parts of the Himalaya.

All the following will eat fresh meat, and it should be given when available. An occasional distribution of cheap cigarettes is much appreciated, particularly by Gurkhas; and a 'medicinal tot' of rum in filthy weather after a hard day will often put a completely new aspect to an unpleasant situation. (The Honorary Editor takes sole responsibility for this remark.)

All the following rations can be obtained in Srinagar, but it is cheaper to bring up the tea from India, and to obtain the barley satu in Leh or Skardu (for Ladakh and the Karakoram). Tobacco for Ladakhis should be obtained from Skardu; they prefer the local country brand.

	Kashmir Muhammadans Pathans, Punjabis	Ladakhis (.Buddhists and Muhammadans)	Gurkha
			orderlies
	oz.	oz.	oz.
Atta (wheat)	16	16	14
Rice	12	..	12
Dal .	3	..	3
Satu (barley)	..	16	..
Salt....	½	1	½
Ghi ....	2	..	2
Butter	..	2	..
Sugar	2	1	1
Tea. . . .	½	½	½
Tobacco .		½	..
	36	37 ½	33

 

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