THE INDO-TIBET BORDER POLICE (I.T.B.P.) is basically a mountain force working in close proximity of the Greater Himalayan range. Ever since its inception this force has systematically carried out a meticulously worked out intensive programme of moulding every member of the force into a veritable mountaineer. Rock climbing course is a must for all I.T.B.P. jawans: and those who show special aptitude are given higher institutionalised training — both inside as well as outside the I.T.B.P. This theoretical knowledge is given claws and teeth by sending the I.T.B.P. boys to explore the Himalaya, to acquire first hand knowledge.
The year 1970 really marked the flowering of mountaineering in this force when I.T.B.P. started organising its own expeditions to various Himalayan peaks, especially those which were considered to be technically difficult and had remained unclimbed, In order to measure and assess the extent to which the I.T.B.P. mountaineers had been able to imbibe and assimilate the techniques and skills taught to them. The start was made with the Trisul expedition under the leadership of Hukam Singh in 1970 and to date I.T.B.P. has climbed a total 44 peaks out of which 25 are first ascents.
In the field of white water rafting also, I.T.B.P. mountaineers after climbing Saser Kangri III made a maiden rafting venture through the Shyok river in 1986 under the leadership of S. P. Chamoli.
I.T.B.P. climbers have also participated in various joint expeditions and distinguished themselves by contributing to the success of the main expeditions. Some of these major joint expeditions are: Ski-Trisul sponsored by the I.M.F. in which Hukam Singh participated, Saser Kangri II Indo-Japanese expedition under the leadership of Hukam Singh alongwith 9 members of T.T.B.P., Nun (I.T.B.P.-I.A.F. Expedition) under the joint leadership of Chait Singh in which two members of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak, Nanda Devi expedition sponsored by I.M.F. in which Sonam Palzor of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak, Rimo I Indo-Japanese .joint expedition sponsored by the I.M.F. under the leadership of llukam Singh in which three members of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak. Joint Indo-New Zealand Himalayan Traverse Expedition sponsored by I.M.F. under the leadership of S. P. Chamoli of I.T.B.P. successfully trekked the entire Himalaya from Kangchenjunga in the rust to the Karakoram in the west and covered more than 5000 km and crossed more than 106 high passes between 3000 m and 6300 m. I.T.B.P. has also made great contribution to the success of 1965 Indian Everest expedition which was successful in putting 9 members on top of the Everest under the leadership of Capt. M. S. Kohli who was at that time Commandant of I.T.B.P. Sonam. Palzor of I.T.B.P. has also climbed Everest in the next successful Indian expedition in 1984.
RECORD OF I.T.B.P. CLIMBS 1970-1988
S.No. | Peak Height Leader | Summiters | Date |
---|---|---|---|
1. | Trisul (7120 m) Hukam Singh | Hukam Singh Mohinder Singh B.T. Lama Hirdey Ram Ang Chottar |
10 July 1970 |
2. | Ladakhi (5342 m) D.D. Malhotra | D.D. Malhotra Y.C. Khanna Parma Nand Purtemba Onkar Chand Mohinder Singh Bhagat Chand Lopsang Panchi Ram Nawang Tshering Mitamber Dr Agarkar |
13 Sept. 1970 |
3. | Shiti Dhar (Friendship) (5294 m) D.D. Malhotra | D.D. Malhotra Y.C. Khanna Parma Nand Purtemba Onkar Chand Mohinder Singh Bhagat Chand Lopsang Panchi Ram Tek Bahadur Nawang Tshering Raj Lai Mitamber H.C. Pant Dr Agarkar |
17 Sept. 1970 |
4. | Kagbhusand (5830 m) J.S. Negi | J.S. Negi Nafe Singh Mingur Sherpa Ang Chottar |
17 May 1971 Second ascent |
5. | Rajrambha (6537 m) J.C. Ojha | J.C. Ojha M.S. Panwar Lakpa Tshering Lakpa Mohan Chandra Sundev Singh Fateh Singh Prahlad Singh Pritam Singh Jeewan Ram |
11 July 1971 First ascent |
6. | Gangotri III (6577 m) N.C. Tripathy | Sohan Lal Nim Puttar Ang Puttar |
26 June 1971 |
7. | Gushu Pishu (5672 m) A-K. Janar-dhanan | A.K. Janardhan T.S. Bhangu Roshan Lal Bihari Lal D.S. Chadlha K.L. Khurana Bhim Singh Shiv Nath Milka Singh Sukhram Ram Prakash |
14-15 Sept 1971 First ascent |
8. | Kedar Dome (6831 m) R.S. Verma | R.S. Verma Swaran Singh B.T. Lama Narain Singh Hirdey Ram Nim Puttar N. Thandup |
15 Sept. 1971 |
9. | Leo Pargial (6791 m) K.C. Mehra | K.C Mehra Onkar Chand Amar Singh Jai Singh Garib Dass |
20-24 Sept. 1971 |
10. | Unnamed Peak (Kagbhusand Range) (6096 m) Hukam singh | Hukam Singh Nafe Singh Lakpa Mingur Prahlad Singh Ramesh Chandra Dil Bahadur Prem Singh Man Bahadur |
10 June 1972 First Ascent |
11. | Bhagirathi II (6512 m) TST.C. Tripathy | Sohan Lal L.P. Semwal Narayan Singh Tej Bahadur Gurang Nim Puttar Ang Puttar Pooran Singh Kunwar Sing |
15 June 1972 |
12. | Unnamed Peak(Ganesh Parbat Range) (6495 m) R.K. Khanna | An B.T. Lama Ang Chottar Puran Singh Kundan Singh |
23 July 1972 First ascent |
13. | Unnamed Peak (Tirsuli Range) (6098 m) M.S. Panwar | M.S. Panwar Dharam Dass Lakpa Sherpa Sunder Singh Prahlad Singh Ramesh Chandra Mohan Chandra Basant Ballabh Kundan Singh Puran Chand |
3 July 1972 First ascent |
14. | Kanglacha(Ladakh) (6254 m) Y.C. Khanna | Y.C. Khanna Balbir Singh Fauzdar Singh Dawa Temba Punchok Rabgias Budhiman Pasang Namgial |
7 July 1972 |
15. | Unnamed Peak(Pangong Range) (6190 m) R.C. Anand | R.C. Anand Balbir Singh Rabgias Budhiman Tashi Sherpa Chhering Norbu |
20 Sept. 1972 First ascent |
16. | Panchchuli I(6355 m) Hukam Singh | Sohan Lai Mohinder Singh Bhagat Singh Dawa Norbu Prem Singh |
17-18 Oct. 1972 First ascent |
17. | Panchchuli II(6904 m) Mohinder Singh | J.S. Negi Bhagat Singh Lakpa Sherpa Pritman Singh B.T. Lama Nafe Singh Mingur Sherpa Dorjee Sherpa Parma Nand Kanhiya Lai Prem Singh Sher Singh Ang Chottar Nim Dorjee |
26 May 1973 First ascent |
18. | Saser Kangri I(7672 m) Joginder Singh | Y.C. Khanna C.R. Patnayak Sonam Paljor Mohinder Singh S.K. Bali G.S. Bhangu Budhiman Gurung Punchok Rabgias Dawa Rinzing Dawa Tenzing |
6-7 June 1973 First ascent |
19. | Nanda Pal (6306 m) M.S. Panwar | Ramesh Chandra Bhim Bahadur Lakhan Singh Dharam Singh Nate Singh Khem Singh Tika Bahadur Jewan Ram Upper Singh Kundan Singh |
8 July 1973 First ascent |
20. | Balakun (6471 m) Hukam Singh | Hukam Singh Daulat Singh Ang Chottar Puran Singh Dorji |
9 July 1973 First ascent |
21. | Unnamed Peak(Chamba-Lahul range) (5946 m) T.S. Singh | T. S. Singh Paras Ram Kartar Chand Thandup Tsering Devi Ram Harbhajan Singh Multan Singh |
23 July 1973 First ascent |
22. | Unnamed Peak (Lahul) (6111 m) Sukhdev Singh | Sukhdev Singh Nakhu Ram Hirdey Ram Ram Bahadur Nathu Ram Rama Nand Chhering Temba Ringchan Thondup Sonam Ram Pitamber Lal Prem Singh |
23 August 1973 First ascent |
23. | Vasuki Parbat (6792 m) L.P. Semwal | Ang Puri Ang Puttar Neem Puttar |
2 October 1973 First ascent |
24. | Kakstet (Pangong range) (6442 m) Faujdar Singh | Kehar Singh Thandup Sherpa Chhewang Renzing Sonam Wangdus Labzong Chhetan Nawang Tashi Tsering Thondup Dorje Morup |
22 October 1973 First ascent |
25. | Kedarnath (6940 m) Y.C. Khanna | Y.C. Khanna B.T. Lama Lakpa Sherpa Mingur Sherpa Pritman Singh Parma Nand Budhiman Singh P. Rabgias Prem Dass |
19 May 1974 Second ascent |
26. | Jorkanden (Kinner Kailash) (6473 m) D.S. Malik | H. Lai Wanchoo Thondup Tsering Da Tensing A. Singh Dawa Rinzing |
26 May 1974 |
27. | Shivling (6543 m) Hukam Singh | Hukam Singh Ang Tharkey Pemba Tharkey Laxman Singh Dorjee Pasang Sherpa |
3 June 1974 First ascent |
28. | Unnamed Peak (Sangla Valley) (6446 m) J.C. Rana | 19 Sept. 1974 First ascent | |
29. | M 6 (6182 m) | Neema Tenzing Pitambar Lai O.P. Sharma Paras Ram |
27 Sept. 1974 First ascent |
30. | Chandra Parbat (6728 m) K. C. Mehra | 29 Sept. 1974 | |
31. | Nilkanth (6596 m) S.P. Chamoli | Son am Palzor Kanhiya Lai Sunder Singh Daleep Singh Neema Dorjee |
3 June 1974 Second ascent1 |
Footnote
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32. | Bharte Khunta (6578 m) B.C. Khulbey | 6 June 1975 First ascent | |
33. | Kedarnath and (6940 m) Kedar Dome (6831 m) Y.C. Khanna | S. P. Chamoli, Dy. Leader Bhagat Singh Da Tenjing Prem Dass Balap Singh Surendra Singh Taj war Singh Mohan Singh |
1 May 1978 Climbed and Skied from both summits |
34. | Hardeol (7151 m) S.P. Mulasi | Nima Tenzing Nima Dorjee (Sr.) Thondup Sherpa Kanhiya Lai Dawa Rinzing Prahlad |
31 May 1978 First ascent |
35. | Kamet (7756 m) Sohan Lai | Roshan Lai Ang Tharkey Magan Singh Nima Tenzing Neema Dorje |
14 May 1981 Skied from Meade's Col |
36. | Saser Kangri II (West Peak) (Indo-Japanese) (7518 m) | Phu Dorje T. Smanla Sonam Wandus Sherup Chholdan Hukam Singh |
7 Sept. 1985 First ascent |
37. | Saser Kangri III (7495 m) S.P. Chamoli | Dawa Tsering Budhiman Wangchuk Rabgias Magan Singh Sharup Chholden Tsering Sherpa Furba Sherpa Bihari Lai Neema Dorje Tajwar Singh Chewang Smanla Sher Singh |
15-16 May 1986 First ascent |
38. | Chaukhamba I (7138 m) V.K. Dandona | Dawa Ringzing Neema Dorje Kanhiya Lai Thondup Sherpa A jab Singh Bachan Singh Ashtam Singh |
31 May 1987 |
39. | Durpata (6465 m) S.S. Dahiya | Ang Puri Puran Singh Kundan Singh Bharat Singh |
8 June 1987 | 40. | Unnamed Peak near Chumar (H.P.) (6428 m) P.K. Dhasmana | P.K. Dhasmana T.B. Ghale Sunder Singh |
23 August 1987 First ascent |
41. | Unnamed Peak Pangong Range (Near Chushul) (6725 m) Illam Singh | Chhewang Smanla Sonam Norphal Stenzing Namgayal Tilak Raj Illam Singh Ishey Lundup Dorje Tshening Sonam Tashi Tarsem Singh Janak Singh Dialu Ram |
7-8 Sept. 1987 First ascent |
42. | Mana (7272 m) Harbhajan Singh | Kanhiya Lai T. Smanla Sherup Chholden |
21 May 1988 East face |
43. | Nun (I.T.B.P.-I.A.F. expedition) (7135 m) Chait Singh | Budhiman Mohan Singh Bhim Singh |
18 June 1988 |
44. | Rimo I (Indo-Japanese expedition) (7385 m) Hukam Singh | T. Smanla Kanhiya Lai Dr C. Patnaik Sherup Chholden N.D. Sherpa Y. Ogata Rattan Singh N. Shingo Y. Futamata A. Chatterjee H. Watanabe J. Takahashi |
28-29-30 July 1988 First ascent |