Himalayan Journal vol.45
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.45

Publication year:
1989

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. AN INITIATION TO THE SURVEY OF INDIA
    (MAJ GEN R. C. A. EDGE)
  3. WHICH IS THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD ?
    (ARDITO DESIO)
  4. KUARI, SATOPANTH AND NOSTALGIA
    (AAMIR ALI)
  5. FOUR AGAINST THE KANGSHUNG
    (ED WEBSTER)
  6. MENLUNGTSE
    (CHRIS BONINGTON)
  7. CHO OYU, 1988
    (FERNANDO GARRIDO)
  8. NANDA DEVI
    (CHARLES S. HOUSTON)
  9. IN FAMOUS FOOTSTEPS
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  10. PURBI DUNAGIRI, 1987
    (J. K. PAUL and S. N. DHAR)
  11. GIANT SUBDUED - HARDEOL, 1978
    (S. P. MULASI)
  12. CENTRAL GARHWAL AND KUMAON
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  13. A PEAK BAGGER'S GUIDE TO THE EASTERN KISHTWAR
    (SIMON RICHARDSON)
  14. ZANSKAR VIA THE SARICHEN LA
    (WILLIAM McKAY AITKEN)
  15. FIRST ASCENT OF RIMO I (7385 M) INDO-JAPANESE JOINT EXPEDITION,
    (HUKAM SINGH)
  16. OLDI COMES ALIVE
  17. THREE PAIRS OF BOOTS
    (HENRY OSMASTON)
  18. NORTHEAST RIDGE OF EVEREST, 1987 EXPEDITION
    (DOUG SCOTT)
  19. SUMMER AND WINTER IN THE NW KARAKORAM, 1988
    (LINDSAY GRIFFIN)
  20. FIRST CLIMB TO THE CONWAY SADDLE
    (ARDITO DESIO)
  21. CLIMBS OF INDO-TIBET BORDER POLICE
    (S. P. CHAMOLI)
  22. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  23. IN MEMORIAM
  24. BOOK REVIEWS
  25. CORRESPONDENCE
  26. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1988

CLIMBS OF INDO-TIBET BORDER POLICE

S. P. CHAMOLI

THE INDO-TIBET BORDER POLICE (I.T.B.P.) is basically a mountain force working in close proximity of the Greater Himalayan range. Ever since its inception this force has systematically carried out a meticulously worked out intensive programme of moulding every member of the force into a veritable mountaineer. Rock climbing course is a must for all I.T.B.P. jawans: and those who show special aptitude are given higher institutionalised training - both inside as well as outside the I.T.B.P. This theoretical knowledge is given claws and teeth by sending the I.T.B.P. boys to explore the Himalaya, to acquire first hand knowledge.

The year 1970 really marked the flowering of mountaineering in this force when I.T.B.P. started organising its own expeditions to various Himalayan peaks, especially those which were considered to be technically difficult and had remained unclimbed, In order to measure and assess the extent to which the I.T.B.P. mountaineers had been able to imbibe and assimilate the techniques and skills taught to them. The start was made with the Trisul expedition under the leadership of Hukam Singh in 1970 and to date I.T.B.P. has climbed a total 44 peaks out of which 25 are first ascents.

In the field of white water rafting also, I.T.B.P. mountaineers after climbing Saser Kangri III made a maiden rafting venture through the Shyok river in 1986 under the leadership of S. P. Chamoli.

I.T.B.P. climbers have also participated in various joint expeditions and distinguished themselves by contributing to the success of the main expeditions. Some of these major joint expeditions are: Ski-Trisul sponsored by the I.M.F. in which Hukam Singh participated, Saser Kangri II Indo-Japanese expedition under the leadership of Hukam Singh alongwith 9 members of T.T.B.P., Nun (I.T.B.P.-I.A.F. Expedition) under the joint leadership of Chait Singh in which two members of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak, Nanda Devi expedition sponsored by I.M.F. in which Sonam Palzor of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak, Rimo I Indo-Japanese .joint expedition sponsored by the I.M.F. under the leadership of llukam Singh in which three members of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak. Joint Indo-New Zealand Himalayan Traverse Expedition sponsored by I.M.F. under the leadership of S. P. Chamoli of I.T.B.P. successfully trekked the entire Himalaya from Kangchenjunga in the rust to the Karakoram in the west and covered more than 5000 km and crossed more than 106 high passes between 3000 m and 6300 m. I.T.B.P. has also made great contribution to the success of 1965 Indian Everest expedition which was successful in putting 9 members on top of the Everest under the leadership of Capt. M. S. Kohli who was at that time Commandant of I.T.B.P. Sonam. Palzor of I.T.B.P. has also climbed Everest in the next successful Indian expedition in 1984.

RECORD OF I.T.B.P. CLIMBS 1970-1988
S.No. Peak Height Leader Summiters Date
1.Trisul (7120 m) Hukam Singh Hukam Singh

Mohinder Singh

B.T. Lama

Hirdey Ram

Ang Chottar
10 July 1970
2. Ladakhi (5342 m) D.D. Malhotra D.D. Malhotra

Y.C. Khanna

Parma Nand

Purtemba

Onkar Chand

Mohinder Singh

Bhagat Chand

Lopsang

Panchi Ram

Nawang Tshering

Mitamber

Dr Agarkar
13 Sept. 1970
3.Shiti Dhar (Friendship) (5294 m) D.D. Malhotra D.D. Malhotra

Y.C. Khanna

Parma Nand

Purtemba

Onkar Chand

Mohinder Singh

Bhagat Chand

Lopsang

Panchi Ram

Tek Bahadur

Nawang Tshering

Raj Lai

Mitamber

H.C. Pant Dr

Agarkar
17 Sept. 1970
4.Kagbhusand (5830 m) J.S. Negi J.S. Negi

Nafe Singh

Mingur Sherpa

Ang Chottar
17 May 1971 Second ascent
5. Rajrambha

(6537 m)

J.C. Ojha
J.C. Ojha

M.S. Panwar

Lakpa Tshering

Lakpa

Mohan Chandra

Sundev Singh

Fateh Singh

Prahlad Singh

Pritam Singh

Jeewan Ram
11 July 1971 First ascent
6. Gangotri III

(6577 m)

N.C. Tripathy
Sohan Lal

Nim Puttar

Ang Puttar
26 June 1971
7. Gushu Pishu (5672 m) A-K. Janar-dhanan A.K. Janardhan

T.S. Bhangu

Roshan Lal Bihari Lal D.S. Chadlha

K.L. Khurana

Bhim Singh

Shiv Nath

Milka Singh

Sukhram

Ram Prakash
14-15 Sept 1971 First ascent
8. Kedar Dome (6831 m) R.S. Verma R.S. Verma

Swaran Singh

B.T. Lama

Narain Singh

Hirdey Ram

Nim Puttar

N. Thandup
15 Sept. 1971
9.Leo Pargial (6791 m) K.C. Mehra K.C Mehra

Onkar Chand

Amar Singh

Jai Singh

Garib Dass
20-24 Sept. 1971
10. Unnamed Peak (Kagbhusand Range) (6096 m) Hukam singh Hukam Singh

Nafe Singh

Lakpa

Mingur

Prahlad Singh

Ramesh Chandra

Dil Bahadur

Prem Singh

Man Bahadur
10 June 1972 First Ascent
11. Bhagirathi II (6512 m) TST.C. Tripathy Sohan Lal

L.P. Semwal

Narayan Singh

Tej Bahadur Gurang

Nim Puttar

Ang Puttar

Pooran Singh

Kunwar Sing
15 June 1972
12. Unnamed Peak(Ganesh

Parbat Range) (6495 m) R.K. Khanna
An B.T. Lama

Ang Chottar

Puran Singh

Kundan Singh
23 July 1972 First ascent
13. Unnamed Peak (Tirsuli Range) (6098 m) M.S. Panwar M.S. Panwar

Dharam Dass

Lakpa Sherpa

Sunder Singh

prahlad Singh

Ramesh Chandra

Mohan Chandra

Basant Ballabh

Kundan Singh

Puran Chand
3 July 1972 First ascent
14. Kanglacha(Ladakh) (6254 m) Y.C. Khanna Y.C. Khanna

Balbir Singh

Fauzdar Singh

Dawa Temba

Punchok Rabgias

Budhiman

Pasang Namgial
7 July 1972
15. Unnamed Peak(Pangong Range) (6190 m) R.C. Anand R.C. Anand

Balbir Singh

Rabgias

Budhiman

Tashi Sherpa

Chhering Norbu
20 Sept. 1972

First ascent
16. Panchchuli I(6355 m) Hukam Singh Sohan Lai

Mohinder Singh

Bhagat Singh

Dawa Norbu

Prem Singh
17-18 Oct. 1972

First ascent
17. Panchchuli II(6904 m) Mohinder Singh J.S. Negi

Bhagat Singh

Lakpa Sherpa

Pritman Singh

B.T. Lama

Nafe Singh

Mingur Sherpa

Dorjee Sherpa

Parma Nand

Kanhiya Lai

Prem Singh

Sher Singh

Ang Chottar

Nim Dorjee
26 May 1973

First ascent
18. Saser Kangri I(7672 m) Joginder Singh Y.C. Khanna

C.R. Patnayak

Sonam Paljor

Mohinder Singh

S.K. Bali

G.S. Bhangu

Budhiman Gurung

Punchok Rabgias

Dawa Rinzing

Dawa Tenzing
6-7 June 1973

First ascent
19. Nanda Pal (6306 m) M.S. Panwar Ramesh Chandra

Bhim Bahadur

Lakhan Singh

Dharam Singh

Nate Singh

Khem Singh

Tika Bahadur

Jewan Ram

Upper Singh

Kundan Singh
8 July 1973 First ascent
20. Balakun (6471 m) Hukam Singh Hukam Singh

Daulat Singh

Ang Chottar

Puran Singh

Dorji
9 July 1973 First ascent
21. Unnamed Peak(Chamba-Lahul range) (5946 m) T.S. Singh T.S. Singh

Paras Ram

Kartar Chand

Thandup Tsering

Devi Ram

Harbhajan Singh

Multan Singh

23 July 1973 First ascent
22. Unnamed Peak(Lahul) (6111 m) Sukhdev Singh Sukhdev Singh

Nakhu Ram

Hirdey Ram

Ram Bahadur

Nathu Ram

Rama Nand

Chhering Temba

Ringchan Thondup

Sonam Ram

Pitamber Lal

Prem Singh
23 August 1973 First ascent
23. Vasuki Parbat Ang Puri 2 October 1973
(6792 m) Ang Puttar First ascent
L.P. Semwal Neem Puttar
24. Kakstet Kehar Singh 22 October 1973
(Pangong Thandup Sherpa First ascent
range) Chhewang Renzing
(6442 m) Sonam Wangdus
Faujdar Singh Labzong Chhetan
Nawang Tashi
Tsering Thondup
Dorje Morup
25. Kedarnath Y.C. Khanna 19 May 1974
(6940 m) B.T. Lama Second ascent
Y.C. Khanna Lakpa Sherpa
Mingur Sherpa
Pritman Singh
Parma Nand
Budhiman Singh
P. Rabgias
Prem Dass
26. Jorkanden H. Lai 26 May 1974
(Kinner Wanchoo
Kailash) Thondup Tsering
(6473 m) Da Tensing
D.S. Malik A. Singh
Dawa Rinzing
27. Shivling Hukam Singh 3 June 1974
(6543 m) Ang Tharkey First ascent
Hukam Singh Pemba Tharkey
Laxman Singh
Dorjee
Pasang Sherpa
28. Unnamed Peak 19 Sept. 1974
(Sangla First ascent
Valley)
(6446 m)
J.C. Rana
29. M 6 Neema Tenzing 27 Sept. 1974
(6182 m) Pitambar Lai First ascent
O.P. Sharma Paras Ram
30. Chandra 29 Sept. 1974
Parbat
(6728 m)
K. C. Mehra
31. Nilkanth Son am Palzor 3 June 1974
(6596 m) Kanhiya Lai Second ascent1
S.P. Chamoli Sunder Singh
Daleep Singh
Neema Dorjee
32. Bharte Khunta 6 June 1975
(6578 m) First ascent
B.C. Khulbey
33. Kedarnath and S. P. Chamoli, 1 May 1978
(6940 m) Dy. Leader Climbed and
Kedar Dome Bhagat Singh Skied from
(6831 m) Da Tenjing both summits
Y.C. Khanna Prem Dass
Balap Singh
Surendra Singh
Taj war Singh
Mohan Singh
34. Hardeol Nima Tenzing 31 May 1978
(7151 m) Nima Dorjee (Sr.) First ascent
S.P. Mulasi Thondup Sherpa
Kanhiya Lai
Dawa Rinzing
Prahlad
35. Kamet Roshan Lai 14 May 1981
(7756 m) Ang Tharkey Skied from
Sohan Lai Magan Singh Meade's Col
Nima Tenzing
Neema Dorje
36. Saser Phu Dorje 7 Sept. 1985
Kangri II T. Smanla First ascent
(West Peak) Sonam Wandus
(Indo- Sherup Chholdan
Japanese)
(7518 m)
Hukam Singh
37. Saser Dawa Tsering 15-16 May 1986
Kangri III Budhiman First ascent
(7495 m) Wangchuk Rabgias
S.P. Chamoli Magan Singh
Sharup Chholden
Tsering Sherpa
Furba Sherpa
Bihari Lai
Neema Dorje
Tajwar Singh
Chewang Smanla

Sher Singh
1. In our records this is considered as the first ascent.-Ed.
38. Chaukhamba I Dawa Ringzing 31 May 1987
(7138 m) Neema Dorje
V.K. Dandona Kanhiya Lai
Thondup Sherpa
A jab Singh
Bachan Singh
Ashtam Singh
39. Durpata Ang Puri 8 June 1987
(6465 m) Puran Singh
S.S. Dahiya Kundan Singh
Bharat Singh
40. Unnamed Peak P.K. Dhasmana 23 August 1987
near Chumar T.B. Ghale First ascent
(H.P.) Sunder Singh
(6428 m)
P.K. Dhasmana
41. Unnamed Peak Chhewang Smanla 7-8 Sept. 1987
Pangong Sonam Norphal First ascent
Range Stenzing Namgayal
(Near Chushul) (6725 m) Illam Singh Tilak Raj

Illam Singh

Ishey Lundup
Dorje Tshening
Sonam Tashi
Tarsem Singh
Janak Singh
Dialu Ram
42. Mana Kanhiya Lai 21 May 1988
(7272 m) T. Smanla East face
Harbhajan Sherup Chholden
Singh
43. Nun Budhiman 18 June 1988
(I.T.B.P.-I.A.F. Mohan Singh
expedition) Bhim Singh
(7135 m)
Chait Singh
44. Rimo I T. Smanla 28-29-30
(Indo- Kanhiya Lai July 1988
Japanese Dr C. Patnaik First ascent
expedition) Sherup Chholden
(7385 m) N.D. Sherpa
Hukam Singh Y. Ogata
Rattan Singh
N. Shingo
Y. Futamata
A. Chatterjee
H. Watanabe
J. Takahashi