CLIMBS OF INDO-TIBET BORDER POLICE

S. P. CHAMOLI

THE INDO-TIBET BORDER POLICE (I.T.B.P.) is basically a mountain force working in close proximity of the Greater Himalayan range. Ever since its inception this force has systematically carried out a meticulously worked out intensive programme of moulding every member of the force into a veritable mountaineer. Rock climbing course is a must for all I.T.B.P. jawans: and those who show special aptitude are given higher institutionalised training — both inside as well as outside the I.T.B.P. This theoretical knowledge is given claws and teeth by sending the I.T.B.P. boys to explore the Himalaya, to acquire first hand knowledge.

The year 1970 really marked the flowering of mountaineering in this force when I.T.B.P. started organising its own expeditions to various Himalayan peaks, especially those which were considered to be technically difficult and had remained unclimbed, In order to measure and assess the extent to which the I.T.B.P. mountaineers had been able to imbibe and assimilate the techniques and skills taught to them. The start was made with the Trisul expedition under the leadership of Hukam Singh in 1970 and to date I.T.B.P. has climbed a total 44 peaks out of which 25 are first ascents.

In the field of white water rafting also, I.T.B.P. mountaineers after climbing Saser Kangri III made a maiden rafting venture through the Shyok river in 1986 under the leadership of S. P. Chamoli.

I.T.B.P. climbers have also participated in various joint expeditions and distinguished themselves by contributing to the success of the main expeditions. Some of these major joint expeditions are: Ski-Trisul sponsored by the I.M.F. in which Hukam Singh participated, Saser Kangri II Indo-Japanese expedition under the leadership of Hukam Singh alongwith 9 members of T.T.B.P., Nun (I.T.B.P.-I.A.F. Expedition) under the joint leadership of Chait Singh in which two members of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak, Nanda Devi expedition sponsored by I.M.F. in which Sonam Palzor of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak, Rimo I Indo-Japanese .joint expedition sponsored by the I.M.F. under the leadership of llukam Singh in which three members of I.T.B.P. climbed the peak. Joint Indo-New Zealand Himalayan Traverse Expedition sponsored by I.M.F. under the leadership of S. P. Chamoli of I.T.B.P. successfully trekked the entire Himalaya from Kangchenjunga in the rust to the Karakoram in the west and covered more than 5000 km and crossed more than 106 high passes between 3000 m and 6300 m. I.T.B.P. has also made great contribution to the success of 1965 Indian Everest expedition which was successful in putting 9 members on top of the Everest under the leadership of Capt. M. S. Kohli who was at that time Commandant of I.T.B.P. Sonam. Palzor of I.T.B.P. has also climbed Everest in the next successful Indian expedition in 1984.

RECORD OF I.T.B.P. CLIMBS 1970-1988

S.No. Peak Height Leader Summiters Date
1. Trisul (7120 m) Hukam Singh Hukam Singh
Mohinder Singh
B.T. Lama
Hirdey Ram
Ang Chottar
10 July 1970
2. Ladakhi (5342 m) D.D. Malhotra D.D. Malhotra
Y.C. Khanna
Parma Nand
Purtemba
Onkar Chand
Mohinder Singh
Bhagat Chand
Lopsang
Panchi Ram
Nawang Tshering
Mitamber
Dr Agarkar
13 Sept. 1970
3. Shiti Dhar (Friendship) (5294 m) D.D. Malhotra D.D. Malhotra
Y.C. Khanna
Parma Nand
Purtemba
Onkar Chand
Mohinder Singh
Bhagat Chand
Lopsang
Panchi Ram
Tek Bahadur
Nawang Tshering
Raj Lai
Mitamber
H.C. Pant Dr
Agarkar
17 Sept. 1970
4. Kagbhusand (5830 m) J.S. Negi J.S. Negi
Nafe Singh
Mingur Sherpa
Ang Chottar
17 May 1971 Second ascent
5. Rajrambha (6537 m) J.C. Ojha J.C. Ojha
M.S. Panwar
Lakpa Tshering
Lakpa
Mohan Chandra
Sundev Singh
Fateh Singh
Prahlad Singh
Pritam Singh
Jeewan Ram
11 July 1971 First ascent
6. Gangotri III (6577 m) N.C. Tripathy Sohan Lal
Nim Puttar
Ang Puttar
26 June 1971
7. Gushu Pishu (5672 m) A-K. Janar-dhanan A.K. Janardhan
T.S. Bhangu
Roshan Lal
Bihari Lal
D.S. Chadlha
K.L. Khurana
Bhim Singh
Shiv Nath
Milka Singh
Sukhram
Ram Prakash
14-15 Sept 1971 First ascent
8. Kedar Dome (6831 m) R.S. Verma R.S. Verma
Swaran Singh
B.T. Lama
Narain Singh
Hirdey Ram
Nim Puttar
N. Thandup
15 Sept. 1971
9. Leo Pargial (6791 m) K.C. Mehra K.C Mehra
Onkar Chand
Amar Singh
Jai Singh
Garib Dass
20-24 Sept. 1971
10. Unnamed Peak (Kagbhusand Range) (6096 m) Hukam singh Hukam Singh
Nafe Singh
Lakpa
Mingur
Prahlad Singh
Ramesh Chandra
Dil Bahadur
Prem Singh
Man Bahadur
10 June 1972 First Ascent
11. Bhagirathi II (6512 m) TST.C. Tripathy Sohan Lal
L.P. Semwal
Narayan Singh
Tej Bahadur Gurang
Nim Puttar
Ang Puttar
Pooran Singh
Kunwar Sing
15 June 1972
12. Unnamed Peak(Ganesh Parbat Range) (6495 m) R.K. Khanna An B.T. Lama
Ang Chottar
Puran Singh
Kundan Singh
23 July 1972 First ascent
13. Unnamed Peak (Tirsuli Range) (6098 m) M.S. Panwar M.S. Panwar
Dharam Dass
Lakpa Sherpa
Sunder Singh
Prahlad Singh
Ramesh Chandra
Mohan Chandra
Basant Ballabh
Kundan Singh
Puran Chand
3 July 1972 First ascent
14. Kanglacha(Ladakh) (6254 m) Y.C. Khanna Y.C. Khanna
Balbir Singh
Fauzdar Singh
Dawa Temba
Punchok Rabgias
Budhiman
Pasang Namgial
7 July 1972
15. Unnamed Peak(Pangong Range) (6190 m) R.C. Anand R.C. Anand
Balbir Singh
Rabgias
Budhiman
Tashi Sherpa
Chhering Norbu
20 Sept. 1972 First ascent
16. Panchchuli I(6355 m) Hukam Singh Sohan Lai
Mohinder Singh
Bhagat Singh
Dawa Norbu
Prem Singh
17-18 Oct. 1972 First ascent
17. Panchchuli II(6904 m) Mohinder Singh J.S. Negi
Bhagat Singh
Lakpa Sherpa
Pritman Singh
B.T. Lama
Nafe Singh
Mingur Sherpa
Dorjee Sherpa
Parma Nand
Kanhiya Lai
Prem Singh
Sher Singh
Ang Chottar
Nim Dorjee
26 May 1973 First ascent
18. Saser Kangri I(7672 m) Joginder Singh Y.C. Khanna
C.R. Patnayak
Sonam Paljor
Mohinder Singh
S.K. Bali
G.S. Bhangu
Budhiman Gurung
Punchok Rabgias
Dawa Rinzing
Dawa Tenzing
6-7 June 1973 First ascent
19. Nanda Pal (6306 m) M.S. Panwar Ramesh Chandra
Bhim Bahadur
Lakhan Singh
Dharam Singh
Nate Singh
Khem Singh
Tika Bahadur
Jewan Ram
Upper Singh
Kundan Singh
8 July 1973 First ascent
20. Balakun (6471 m) Hukam Singh Hukam Singh
Daulat Singh
Ang Chottar
Puran Singh
Dorji
9 July 1973 First ascent
21. Unnamed Peak(Chamba-Lahul range) (5946 m) T.S. Singh T. S. Singh
Paras Ram
Kartar Chand
Thandup Tsering
Devi Ram
Harbhajan Singh
Multan Singh
23 July 1973 First ascent
22. Unnamed Peak (Lahul) (6111 m) Sukhdev Singh Sukhdev Singh
Nakhu Ram
Hirdey Ram
Ram Bahadur
Nathu Ram
Rama Nand
Chhering Temba
Ringchan Thondup
Sonam Ram
Pitamber Lal
Prem Singh
23 August 1973 First ascent
23. Vasuki Parbat (6792 m) L.P. Semwal Ang Puri
Ang Puttar
Neem Puttar
2 October 1973 First ascent
24. Kakstet (Pangong range) (6442 m) Faujdar Singh Kehar Singh
Thandup Sherpa
Chhewang Renzing
Sonam Wangdus
Labzong Chhetan
Nawang Tashi
Tsering Thondup
Dorje Morup
22 October 1973 First ascent
25. Kedarnath (6940 m) Y.C. Khanna Y.C. Khanna
B.T. Lama
Lakpa Sherpa
Mingur Sherpa
Pritman Singh
Parma Nand
Budhiman Singh
P. Rabgias
Prem Dass
19 May 1974 Second ascent
26. Jorkanden (Kinner Kailash) (6473 m) D.S. Malik H. Lai
Wanchoo
Thondup Tsering
Da Tensing
A. Singh
Dawa Rinzing
26 May 1974
27. Shivling (6543 m) Hukam Singh Hukam Singh
Ang Tharkey
Pemba Tharkey
Laxman Singh
Dorjee
Pasang Sherpa
3 June 1974 First ascent
28. Unnamed Peak (Sangla Valley) (6446 m) J.C. Rana 19 Sept. 1974 First ascent
29. M 6 (6182 m) Neema Tenzing
Pitambar Lai
O.P. Sharma
Paras Ram
27 Sept. 1974 First ascent
30. Chandra Parbat (6728 m) K. C. Mehra 29 Sept. 1974
31. Nilkanth (6596 m) S.P. Chamoli Son am Palzor
Kanhiya Lai
Sunder Singh
Daleep Singh
Neema Dorjee
3 June 1974 Second ascent1

Footnote

  1. In our records this is considered as the first ascent.—Ed.
32. Bharte Khunta (6578 m) B.C. Khulbey 6 June 1975 First ascent
33. Kedarnath and (6940 m) Kedar Dome (6831 m) Y.C. Khanna S. P. Chamoli, Dy. Leader
Bhagat Singh
Da Tenjing
Prem Dass
Balap Singh
Surendra Singh
Taj war Singh
Mohan Singh
1 May 1978 Climbed and Skied from both summits
34. Hardeol (7151 m) S.P. Mulasi Nima Tenzing
Nima Dorjee (Sr.)
Thondup Sherpa
Kanhiya Lai
Dawa Rinzing
Prahlad
31 May 1978 First ascent
35. Kamet (7756 m) Sohan Lai Roshan Lai
Ang Tharkey
Magan Singh
Nima Tenzing
Neema Dorje
14 May 1981 Skied from Meade's Col
36. Saser Kangri II (West Peak) (Indo-Japanese) (7518 m) Phu Dorje
T. Smanla
Sonam Wandus
Sherup Chholdan
Hukam Singh
7 Sept. 1985 First ascent
37. Saser Kangri III (7495 m) S.P. Chamoli Dawa Tsering
Budhiman
Wangchuk Rabgias
Magan Singh
Sharup Chholden
Tsering Sherpa
Furba Sherpa
Bihari Lai
Neema Dorje
Tajwar Singh
Chewang Smanla
Sher Singh
15-16 May 1986 First ascent
38. Chaukhamba I (7138 m) V.K. Dandona Dawa Ringzing
Neema Dorje
Kanhiya Lai
Thondup Sherpa
A jab Singh
Bachan Singh
Ashtam Singh
31 May 1987
39. Durpata (6465 m) S.S. Dahiya Ang Puri
Puran Singh
Kundan Singh
Bharat Singh
8 June 1987
40. Unnamed Peak near Chumar (H.P.) (6428 m) P.K. Dhasmana P.K. Dhasmana
T.B. Ghale
Sunder Singh
23 August 1987 First ascent
41. Unnamed Peak Pangong Range (Near Chushul) (6725 m) Illam Singh Chhewang Smanla
Sonam Norphal
Stenzing Namgayal
Tilak Raj
Illam Singh
Ishey Lundup
Dorje Tshening
Sonam Tashi
Tarsem Singh
Janak Singh
Dialu Ram
7-8 Sept. 1987 First ascent
42. Mana (7272 m) Harbhajan Singh Kanhiya Lai
T. Smanla
Sherup Chholden
21 May 1988 East face
43. Nun (I.T.B.P.-I.A.F. expedition) (7135 m) Chait Singh Budhiman
Mohan Singh
Bhim Singh
18 June 1988
44. Rimo I (Indo-Japanese expedition) (7385 m) Hukam Singh T. Smanla
Kanhiya Lai
Dr C. Patnaik
Sherup Chholden
N.D. Sherpa
Y. Ogata
Rattan Singh
N. Shingo
Y. Futamata
A. Chatterjee
H. Watanabe
J. Takahashi
28-29-30 July 1988 First ascent

 

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