THE EIGHT-THOUSANDERS

A RECORD OF ASCENTS, 1980-1984

D. F. O. DANGAR and T. H. BRAHAM

OUR SERIES BEGAN with the ascent of the first 8000 m peak in 1950 and it was spread over 30 years upto 1979 during which period we recorded a total of 80 ascents of the world's 8000 m mountains. In acceding to the Editor's request to extend the list for a further 5 years upto and including the 1984 season, it has been agreed that this should be the last of the series.1

Over a century ago when the early pioneers entered a virgin field in the European alps and first ascents were the order of the day, chronological records were maintained by the Alpine Club London and others of ascents of the major peaks for a couple of decades. Thus when the Matterhorn was first ascended on 14 July 1865 records were kept of every ascent made thereafter until 1890 after which they were discontinued. So it should be with the 8000 m mountains of the Himalaya and Karakoram.

Annapurna I was first climbed 35 years ago, and 32 years have passed since the first ascent of Everest. It is now not uncommon to record more than 20 ascents each season of 8000 m mountains— their merit being judged by the manner in which they are clim-bed, i.e. alpine style, solo, in winter, by a new route, etc. The current trend is towards traverses of the 8000 m peaks. Five were achieved in 1984. This opens up a whole new field.

More up-to-date methods are becoming available to cope with the problem of keeping records of this burgeoning activity in the world's highest mountains. Himalayan archives have been esta¬blished in the German and Austrian Alpine Clubs, where com¬puterized information is eventually to become available. The U.I.A.A. in Geneva are also considering the possibility of data-based information. The Alpine Club; in London have proposed setting up a computerized information source which is intended ultimately to cover climbing records for all mountains throughout the great ranges situated in Nepal, Pakistan, China, and India.

While hoping that these worthwhile aims may soon be turned into reality, what a departure that will be from the days when Tilman and Shipton set forth on their ventures planned on the back of an envelope, with few records on which to rely, filling in blanks on the map and setting foot on virgin summits.

Footnote

  1. For the first part of the series see H.J. Vol. 36, p. 207

 

  1. MOUNT EVEREST (8848 m — 29,028 ft)
  2. K2 (8610 m — 28,253 ft)
  3. KANGCHENJUNGA (8598 M – 28,208 FT)
  4. LHOTSE (8511 m — 27,923 ft)
  5. MAKALU (8481 m — 27,825 ft)
  6. DHAULAGIRI (8167 m — 26,795 ft)
  7. MANASLU (8156 m — 26,760 ft)
  8. CHO OYU (8153 m — 26,750 ft)
  9. NANGA PARBAT (8125 M – 26,660 ft)
  10. ANNAPURNA (8091 m — 26,545 ft)
  11. GASHERBRUM I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m — 26,470 ft)
  12. BROAD PEAK (8047 m — 26,400 ft)
  13. XIXABANGMA (SHISHA PANGMA) (8046 m — 26,398 ft)
  14. GASHEEBRUM II (8035 m — 26,360 ft)

 

 

MOUNT EVEREST (8848 m — 29,028 ft)

(All ascents by South Col and SE ridge unless otherwise stated)

19. 1980
Feb. 17
Polish expendition.
L. Cichy, K. Wielicki.
1st winter ascent.
20. 1980
May 3

May 10
Japanese expedition.
Y. Kato.
by NE ridge.
T. Ozaki, T. Shigehiro.
by N face.
21. 1980
May 14
Spanish expedition.
M. Zabaleta, Pasang Temba.
22. 1980
May 18
Polish expedition.
A. Czok, J. Kukuczka.
by S buttress.
23. 1980
May 20
R. Messner.
from Tibet, solo
by N Col, NE face and ridge.
24. 1981
Oct. 21
Oct. 24
Oct. 24
American expedition.
C. Kopczynski, Sundare.
C. Pizzo, Ang Tenzing.
P. Hackett (alone from just above the South Col).
25. 1982
May 4

May 4
May 5
May 8
May 8-9
Russian expedition.
V. Balyberdin, E. Myslovsky, S. Bershov,
M. Turkevitch.
S. Efimov, V. Ivanov.
V. Krischaty, K. Valiev.
Y. Golodov, V. Khomutov, V. Putchkov.
by SW and W ridges.
26. 1982
Oct. 5
Oct. 7
Canadian expedition.
L. Skreslet, Lhakpa Dorje, Sundare.
P. Morrow, Lhakpa Tshering, Pemba Dorje.
27. 1982
Dec. 27
Japanese expedition.
Y. Kato.
28. 1983
May 7

May 14
American expedition.
D. Breashears, P. Jamieson, L. Nielson, G. Roach, Ang Rita.
G. Neptune, J. States, Lhakpa Dorje.
29. 1983
Oct. 8

Oct. 8
Japanese expedition.
H. Kawamura, S. Suzuki.
by S buttress.
H. Endo, H. Kamura, H. Yoshino
30. 1983
Oct. 8
Oct. 9
American expedition.
C. Buhler, K. Momb, L. Reichardt
J. Cassell, G. Lowe, D. Reid.
1st ascent by E face.
31. 1983
Dec. 16
Japanese expedition.
K. Murakami, T. Ozaki, N. Yamada,
Nawang Yonden.
32. 1984
April 20
May 9
May 10
Bulgarian expedition.
C. Prodanov.
M. Savov, I. Vlatchev.
K. Doskov, N. Petrov.
2nd ascent of W ridge and 2nd traverse.
33. 1984
May 9
May 23
Indian expedition.
Phu Dorji.
B. Pal, Ang Dorji, Dorjee Lhatoo,
Sonam Palzor.
34. 1984
Oct. 2
Australian expedition.
T. Macartney-Snape, G. Mortimer.
by N Col, NE ridge and NE face.
35. 1984 Oct. 8 Dutch expedition.
B. Vos.*
* Czech summit party 7 days later stated that they observed foot-prints up to the S summit but not beyond.
36. 1984
Oct. 15
Czech expedition.
Z. Demjan, J. Psotka, Ang Rita.
by Polish S Pillar route.
37. 1984 Oct. 28 American expedition.
P. Ershler.
by N Col, N face and Great Couloir.

 

 

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K2 (8610 m — 28,253 ft)
5. 1981
Aug. 7
Japanese expedition.
E. Ohtani, N. Sabir.
1st ascent by W ridge.
6. 1982
Aug. 14
Aug. 15
Japanese expedition.
N. Sakashita, Y. Yanagisawa.
H. Kamuro, H. Kawamura, T. Shigeno,
K. Takami.
1st ascent by N ridge.
7. 1983
July 31
Aug. 4
Italian expendition.
A. de Polenza, J. Raconkaj.
F. de Stefani, S. Martini.
By N ridge.

 

 

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KANGCHENJUNGA (8598 M – 28,208 FT)
4. 1980
May 14

May 17
Japanese expedition.
H. Kawamura, R. Pukada, N. Sakashita,
S. Susuki, Aug Phurbu.
M. Konishi, M. Omiya, T. Sakano,
Pemba Tsering, Dawa Norbu.
by new route on N face.
5. 1980
May 15
West German expedition.
G. Ritter, Nima Dorje, Lhakpa Gyalbu.
by SW face.
6. 1980
May 9
Japanese expedition.
K. Fujikura, A. Hosaka, K. Katacka,
S. Suzuki, N. Yamada, 1 Sherpa.
From SW.
7. 1981
May 20
Czechoslovak expedition.
J. Psotka, L. Zahoransky.
By N face.
8. 1981
French expedition.
M. Paramentier, J.-J. Ricouard.
From the SW; 1st post monsoon ascent.
9. 1982
May 2
Italian expedition.
I. Menabreaz, O. Squinobal, Ang Temba.
By SW face.
10. 1982
May 6
Italian expedition.
R. Messner, J. Mutschlechner, Ang Dorje.
By N face and N ridge.
11. 1983
May 28
Austrian expedition.
G. Bachler.
from the SW.
12. 1983
Oct 17
French expedition.
P. Beghin.
from the SW, solo.
13. 1983
Oct. 21
Swiss expedition.
M. Bruchez, V. May.
From the N.
14. 1984
May 19

May 20
Japanese expedition.
T.Ozaki, Ang Tshering.
from SW.
T. Mitani, S. Wada.
Via S and Central summits.
15. 1984
Oct. 18
Canadian expedition.
R. Marshall,
by SW face.

 

 

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LHOTSE (8511 m — 27,923 ft)
5. 1981
April 30
Bulgarian expedition.
C. Prodanov.
by W face.
6. 1983
Oct. 9
Oct. 10
Oct. 11
Japanese expedition.
K. Murakami, T. Ozaki, N, Yamada.
T. Kagawa, T. Miyazaki, Dawa Norbu.
K. Takahashi, S. Suzuki, Pemba Norbu.
by W face.

 

 

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MAKALU (8481 m — 27,825 ft)
7. 1980
May 15
American expedition.
J. Roskelley.
by W face and W ridge.
8.
1981
April 25 Austrian expedition.
R. Schauer.
by N face.
9. 1981
Oct. 5
Anglo-Polish expedition.
J. Kukuczka.
solo ascent by W face.
10. 1982
May 20
South Korean expedition.
Heo Young-Ho, Pasang Norbu, Ang Phurba.
by SE ridge.
11. 1982 Sept. 30 Japanese expedition.
M. Ishibashi, K. Yuda, Y. Michiwaki. by N ridge.
12. 1982
Oct. 10
Polish-Brazilian expedition.
A. Czok.
by new route on W face.
13. 1984
May 16
Spanish expedition.
M. Abrego, K. de Pablo.
by original French route
14. 1984 Sept. 29 Swiss expedition.
R. Nottaris.
variation on W face.

 

 

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DHAULAGIRI (8167 m — 26,795 ft)
(by NE col and NE spur unless otherwise stated)
8. 1980
May 13
May 14

May 17
May 18

May 19
Eiselin Commercial expedition.
H. von Kaenel, F. Luchsinger, Ang Rita.
J. Buchholzer, R. Monnerat, H. J. Muller,
H. Zimmerman.
H. Burgstaller, H. Eital, F, Graf.
M. Ballman, R. Bleiker, M. Reudi,
Lhakpa Gyalzen, Mingma Gyalzen.
S. Burkhardt, J. Mueller, Ang Rita.
9. 1980
May 18
British expedition.
A. Maclntyre, R. Ghilini, W. Kurtyka,
L. Wilczynski.
1st ascent by E face and NE spur.
10. 1981
May 17
Anglo-Canadian expedition.
Adrian and Alan Burgess.
11. 1981
June 2
Japanese expedition.
H. Kamuro.
12. 1982
May 5
May 6
Belgian expedition.
P. Cornelissen, R. van Schick, Ang Rita,
M. Caston, J. van Hees, L. Vivijs,
Ang Jangbo.
13. 1982 Oct. 17 Japanese expedition.
T. Mitani, J. Tanaka.
14. 1982
Oct. 18
Japanese expedition.
K. Komatsu, Y. Saito, N. Yamada.
1st ascent by N face and NW ridge.
15. 1982
Dec. 13
Japanese expedition.
A. Koizumi, Nima Wangchu.
1st winter ascent.
16. 1983
May 18
Polish expedition.
M. Gardzielewski, J. Jezierski,
T. Laukajtys, W. Otreba.
17. 1984
Oct. 4
French expedition.
P. Beghin, J-N. Roche.
2nd ascent by S pillar.
18. 1984
Oct. 23
Czechoslovak expedition.
K. Jakes, J. Simon, J. Stejskal.
1st ascent of W face.

 

 

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MANASLU (8156 m — 26,760 ft)
8. 1980
April 28
Korean expedition.
Seo Dong Hwan, Ang Pasang, Ang Zawa.
from the NE.
9. 1981
May 7
May 9

May 19
Austro-German expedition.
H. von Kaenel, J. Mecke, Wangchu.
F. Graf, K. Horn, A. Loferer,
H. J. Mueller, H. Zebrowski.
W. Heimbach, S. Millinger, R. Schleypen,
S. Worner, P. Weber, P. Worgotter,
Pasang. from the NE.
10. 1981
Oct. 7
French expedition.
P. Beghin, B. Muller.
by new route on W face.
11. 1981
Oct. 12
Oct. 14
Japanese expedition.
J. Ozaki.Y. Kato, T. Tomita.
from the NE.
12. 1982
Oct. 10
Franco-Italian expedition.
L. Audoubert, Nawang Tenzing.
from the NE.
13. 1983
Oct. 22
Korean expedition.
Y. Ho Huh
from the NE.
14. 1983
Oct. 22
German expedition.
G. Huerter, H. Streibel, H. Tauber,
H. Wehrs, Ang Dorje, Nima Rita,
by S face and S ridge.
15. 1984
Jan 12
Polish expedition.
M. Berbeka, R. Gajewski.
1st winter ascent.
16. 1984
April 30
May 7
May 11
Swiss-German expedition.
E. Loretan, M. Ruedi.
M. Dacher, F. Zintl.
N. Joos, Ang Chepal, Wongyal,
R. Schnaider, W. Schaffert, G. Sturm.
by NE face.
17. 1984
May 4
Yugoslav expedition.
S. Bozic, V. Groselj.
by S. face.
18. 1984
Oct 20
Polish expedition.
A. Lwow, K. Wielicki
by new route on S ridge.
A Swiss-Czech expedition led by Z. Lukes attempted a difficult line on the virgin Savoia Kangri (7262 m) in 1982.

Illustrated Note 7
A Swiss-Czech expedition led by Z. Lukes attempted a difficult line on the virgin Savoia Kangri (7262 m) in 1982. They climbed ‘Czech Pillar’, in centre till 6600 m before retreating.
Photo: Z. Lukes

An Austrian expedition led by E. Lindenthaler made the second ascent of Kharchakund in August 1983.

Illustrated Note 8
An Austrian expedition led by E. Lindenthaler made the second ascent of Kharchakund in August 1983. They climbed by a new route, NE wall and also by W ridge (original route). Both routes were about 1800 m high and each was climbed in a two-day push.

Sangemar Mar (7050 m) from Muchichul glacier.

Illustrated Note 9
Sangemar Mar (7050 m) from Muchichul glacier. Peaks 3, 2 and 1 (1 to r). A Japanese expedition led by T. Matsuo made the first ascent by SW ridge traversing all the peaks. All the members reached the summit with 3000 m of fixed ropes.

 

 

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CHO OYU (8153 m — 26,750 ft)
4. 1983
May 5
Italian expedition.
M. Dacher, H Kammerlander,
R. Messner. by SW ridge and SW face.
5. 1984
May 13
Czechoslovak expedition.
V. Komarkova, M. Sterbova, Ang Rita, Nuru.
by SW ridge and SW face.
6. 1984
Sept. 20

Sept. 21
Spanish expedition.
A. Llasera, C. Valles, Ang Karma,
Shambu Tamang.
J. Clemenson, J. Pons,
by SW ridge and SW face.

 

 

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NANGA PARBAT (8125 M – 26,660 ft)
8. 1981
Aug. 5
Dutch expedition.
R.Naar.
By SW ridge.
9. 1981
Aug. 19
Italian expedition.
S. Fassi, L. Rota, B. Scanabessi.
By Diamir face.
10. 1982
June 10
Swiss expedition.
N. Joos, E. Loretan.
by Diamir face.
11. 1982
July 14
French expedition
H.Engl
by Diamir face.
12. 1983
July 10
Japanese expedition.
N. Nakanishi, M. Taniguchi.
by Diamir face.
13. 1983
July 17
Austrian expedition.
E. Koblmuller.
by SW ridge.
14. 1983
Aug. 5
Spanish expedition.
K.de Pabla, J-L. Zuloaga.
by Diamir face.
15. 1984
June 3
Swiss expedition.
M. Ruedi.
Accompanied by two others to 8000 m.
by Diamir face.
16. 1984
June 27
French expedition.
Liliane and Maurice Barrard.
1st ascent by a woman.
by Diamir face.
17. 1984
Aug. 7
Spanish expedition.
O. Cadiach, J. M. Guell.
by NW ridge.

 

 

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ANNAPURNA (8091 m — 26,545 ft)
8. 1980
May 1
May 2

May 3
German expedition.
G. Harder, K. Staltmayr, Ang Dorje.
W. Broeg, K. Schrag, Ang Tsangi, Maila
Pemba.
V. Boenning, L. Greissl, H. Oberraueh.
by 1977 Dutch route.
9. 1981
Oct. 29
Japanese expedition.
H. Aota, Y. Yanagisawa.
2nd complete ascent of S face.
10. 1982
May 4
International expedition.
W. Burkli, T. Hagler, W. Worgotter,
Dawa Tenzing.
from the N by a variation of preceding
routes.
11. 1984
Oct. 23-24
Swiss expedition.
E. Loretan, N. Joos.
1st traverse of E. Central and Main summits.

 

 

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GASHERBRUM I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m — 26,470 ft)
5. 1980
July 15
French expedition.
M. Barrard, G. Narbaud.
by SW ridge and S summit.
6. 1981
Aug. 3
Japanese expedition.
H. Azuma, K. Shimotori.
by SE spur.
7. 1982
July 22
German expedition.
M. Dacher, S. Hupfauer, G. Sturm,
via Gasherbrum La and N buttress.
8. 1982
July 27
Franco-Swiss expedition.
S. Saudan, M-J. Vallencot, J. P. Oilagnier,
D. Semblanet, Mohammad Ali.
by SE spur. 1st ski descent.
9. 1983
June 23
June 24
Swiss expedition.
E. Loretan, M. Ruedi.
P. Morand, J-C. Sonnenwyl, M. Spicher.
via Gasherbrum La and variation on
N buttress.
10. 1983
July 23
Polish expedition.
W. Kurtyka, J. Kukuczka.
by new route on SW face.
11. 1983
Aug. 22
Spanish expedition.
V. Arnal, I. Cinto, J. Escartin, J. Lopez,
L. Ortas, A. Ubieto. by new route from SW and S.
12. 1984
June 28
Italian expedition.
H. Kammerlander, R. Messner.
traverse from G. II by N buttress.

 

 

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BROAD PEAK (8047 m — 26,400 ft)
(All ascents by W spur and N ridge)
4. 1981
Aug. 5
Spanish expedition
M. Hernandez, E. Pujol, S. Escalera,
A. Sors.
5. 1982
July 23
German expedition.
R. Bartl, P. Gioggner, H. Kirchberger,
K. Lewankowski.
6. 1982
July 23
Austrian expedition.
G. Bachler. A. Furtner, W. Losch.
7. 1982 Aug. 2 Messner expedition.R. Messner, Nazir Sabir, Sher Khan.
8. 1983
June 26

June 28
British expedition.J. Afanassieff, R. Baxter Jones,A. Parkin, A. Rouse.D. Scott, S. Sustad.
9. 1983 Swiss expedition.
K. Palmowska (Polish)
first all-women's ascent.
F.Graf, E. Loretan, M. Ruedi, S. Worner.
P. Morand, J-C. Sonnenwyl.
10. 11. 1984 June 26 Swiss expedition.
12. 1984 June 26 Italian expedition.
13. 1984
June 26
Polish expedition.
T. Hagler (CH), A. Reinhard (CH),
M. Prieto (Columbia), L. Deuber (CH),
R. Franzl (A).
July 13 H. Zebrowski (BRD), R, Schlexpen (D),
K. Hub (D).
July 13 G.Calcagno (I), T. Vidoni (I).
July 14 J. Wlajer (P), R. Pawlowski (P),
W. Fuit (P).
July 14 K. Wielicki (P), (1-day ascent-descent.)
July 17 J. Kukuczka (P), W. Kurtyka (P).
(1st traverse of N Central and main summits.)
July 18 K. Diemberger (A), J. Tullis (GB).
14. 1984
Aug. 5

Aug. 8
French expedition.
D. Chatrefou, B. Moreau, J-J and Mme
M.Roland.
R. Joswig, R. Schauer.

 

 

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XIXABANGMA (SHISHA PANGMA) (8046 m — 26,398 ft)
(All ascents except 5 and 6 by original route from the N)
2. 1980
May 11
May 12
German expedition.
M. Dacher, W. Schaffert, G. Sturm, F. Zinte.
S. Hupfauer, M. Sturm.
3. 1980 Oct. 13 Austrian expedition.
E. Obojes, E. Putz.
4. 1981 April 30 Japanese expedition.
Y. Tabei, 2 Chinese.
5. 1981
May 28
Mixed expedition.
R. Messner, F. Mutschlechner.
by new route on N face.
6. 1982
May 28
British expedition.
R. Baxter Jones, A. Maclntyre, D. Scott,
by new route on SW face.
7. 1982
Oct. 10
Oct. 12
Oct. 12
Japanese expedition.
M. Hara, H. Komamiya, H. Konishi.
T. Chiba, M. Ohmiya.
M. Tomita.
8. 1983 April 29 German expedition.
U. Schum, Josep and Marianne Walter.
9. 1983 Sept. 30 American expedition.
M. Browning, C, Pizzo, G. Porzak.
10. 1984
May 6
May 8
American expedition.
D. Howe, M. Jenkins, D. Kelly, M. Wingert.
S. Creer, M. Lehner.

 

 

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GASHEEBRUM II (8035 m — 26,360 ft)
(All ascents except 16 by SW spur and E ridge)
7. 1980 Aug. 2 Japanese expedition.
M. Fukushima, K. Imada, H. Sato.
8. 1980 Aug. 2 Spanish expedition.
P. Aymerich, E. Font.
9. 1981 June 29 Austrian expedition.
F. and G. Neumayer.
10. 1981 Aug. 3 Swiss expedition.
R. Nottaris, R, Zund.
11. 1981 Aug. 6 French expedition.
E. Beaud, P. Grenier, C. Janin,
Sher Khan.
12. 1982
June 9-10
June 11
Austrian expedition.
M. Gruner, G. Kaser, G. Markl,R. Renzler.
J. Trattner.
13. 1982 June 12 French expedition.
M. Barrard, A. Bontemps.
14. 1982 June 24 Messner expedition.
R. Messner, Nazir Sabir, Sher Khan.
15. 1983 June 25 Swiss expedition.
F. Graf, E. Loretan, A. Meyer, M. Ruedi,
J-C. Sonnenwyl, S. Worner.
16. 1983 July 1 Polish expedition.
W. Kurtyka, J. Kukuczka,
by SE spur and E ridge.
17. 1984 June 25 Italian expedition.
H. Kammerlander, R. Messner.
traversed to G. I.
18. 1984 Aug. 6 French expedition.
P. Bournat, W. Pasquier.
1st ski descent.
19. 1984 July 31 French expedition.
J. Demarolle, P. Gleizes, P. Guedu,
F. Maurel.

 

Since these records were compiled the Nepalese authorities have adopted new heights for the following five peaks:

Kangchenjunga 8586 m—28,170 ft
Lhotse 8516 m—27,941 ft
Makalu 8463 m—27,767 ft
Cho Oyu 8201 m—26,907 ft
Manaslu 8163 m-—26,783 ft

 

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