OUR SERIES BEGAN with the ascent of the first 8000 m peak in 1950 and it was spread over 30 years upto 1979 during which period we recorded a total of 80 ascents of the world's 8000 m mountains. In acceding to the Editor's request to extend the list for a further 5 years upto and including the 1984 season, it has been agreed that this should be the last of the series.1
Over a century ago when the early pioneers entered a virgin field in the European alps and first ascents were the order of the day, chronological records were maintained by the Alpine Club London and others of ascents of the major peaks for a couple of decades. Thus when the Matterhorn was first ascended on 14 July 1865 records were kept of every ascent made thereafter until 1890 after which they were discontinued. So it should be with the 8000 m mountains of the Himalaya and Karakoram.
Annapurna I was first climbed 35 years ago, and 32 years have passed since the first ascent of Everest. It is now not uncommon to record more than 20 ascents each season of 8000 m mountains— their merit being judged by the manner in which they are clim-bed, i.e. alpine style, solo, in winter, by a new route, etc. The current trend is towards traverses of the 8000 m peaks. Five were achieved in 1984. This opens up a whole new field.
More up-to-date methods are becoming available to cope with the problem of keeping records of this burgeoning activity in the world's highest mountains. Himalayan archives have been esta¬blished in the German and Austrian Alpine Clubs, where com¬puterized information is eventually to become available. The U.I.A.A. in Geneva are also considering the possibility of data-based information. The Alpine Club; in London have proposed setting up a computerized information source which is intended ultimately to cover climbing records for all mountains throughout the great ranges situated in Nepal, Pakistan, China, and India.
While hoping that these worthwhile aims may soon be turned into reality, what a departure that will be from the days when Tilman and Shipton set forth on their ventures planned on the back of an envelope, with few records on which to rely, filling in blanks on the map and setting foot on virgin summits.
Footnote
(All ascents by South Col and SE ridge unless otherwise stated)
19. | 1980 | Feb. 17 |
Polish expendition. L. Cichy, K. Wielicki. 1st winter ascent. |
20. | 1980 | May 3 May 10 |
Japanese expedition. Y. Kato. by NE ridge. T. Ozaki, T. Shigehiro. by N face. |
21. | 1980 | May 14 |
Spanish expedition. M. Zabaleta, Pasang Temba. |
22. | 1980 | May 18 |
Polish expedition. A. Czok, J. Kukuczka. by S buttress. |
23. | 1980 | May 20 |
R. Messner. from Tibet, solo by N Col, NE face and ridge. |
24. | 1981 | Oct. 21 Oct. 24 Oct. 24 |
American expedition. C. Kopczynski, Sundare. C. Pizzo, Ang Tenzing. P. Hackett (alone from just above the South Col). |
25. | 1982 | May 4 May 4 May 5 May 8 May 8-9 |
Russian expedition. V. Balyberdin, E. Myslovsky, S. Bershov, M. Turkevitch. S. Efimov, V. Ivanov. V. Krischaty, K. Valiev. Y. Golodov, V. Khomutov, V. Putchkov. by SW and W ridges. |
26. | 1982 | Oct. 5 Oct. 7 |
Canadian expedition. L. Skreslet, Lhakpa Dorje, Sundare. P. Morrow, Lhakpa Tshering, Pemba Dorje. |
27. | 1982 | Dec. 27 |
Japanese expedition. Y. Kato. |
28. | 1983 | May 7 May 14 |
American expedition. D. Breashears, P. Jamieson, L. Nielson, G. Roach, Ang Rita. G. Neptune, J. States, Lhakpa Dorje. |
29. | 1983 | Oct. 8 Oct. 8 |
Japanese expedition. H. Kawamura, S. Suzuki. by S buttress. H. Endo, H. Kamura, H. Yoshino |
30. | 1983 | Oct. 8 Oct. 9 |
American expedition. C. Buhler, K. Momb, L. Reichardt J. Cassell, G. Lowe, D. Reid. 1st ascent by E face. |
31. | 1983 | Dec. 16 |
Japanese expedition. K. Murakami, T. Ozaki, N. Yamada, Nawang Yonden. |
32. | 1984 | April 20 May 9 May 10 |
Bulgarian expedition. C. Prodanov. M. Savov, I. Vlatchev. K. Doskov, N. Petrov. 2nd ascent of W ridge and 2nd traverse. |
33. | 1984 | May 9 May 23 |
Indian expedition. Phu Dorji. B. Pal, Ang Dorji, Dorjee Lhatoo, Sonam Palzor. |
34. | 1984 | Oct. 2 |
Australian expedition. T. Macartney-Snape, G. Mortimer. by N Col, NE ridge and NE face. |
35. | 1984 | Oct. 8 | Dutch expedition. B. Vos.* |
* Czech summit party 7 days later stated that they observed foot-prints up to the S summit but not beyond. | |||
36. | 1984 | Oct. 15 |
Czech expedition. Z. Demjan, J. Psotka, Ang Rita. by Polish S Pillar route. |
37. | 1984 | Oct. 28 | American expedition. P. Ershler. by N Col, N face and Great Couloir. |
5. | 1981 | Aug. 7 |
Japanese expedition. E. Ohtani, N. Sabir. 1st ascent by W ridge. |
6. | 1982 | Aug. 14 Aug. 15 |
Japanese expedition. N. Sakashita, Y. Yanagisawa. H. Kamuro, H. Kawamura, T. Shigeno, K. Takami. 1st ascent by N ridge. |
7. | 1983 | July 31 Aug. 4 |
Italian expendition. A. de Polenza, J. Raconkaj. F. de Stefani, S. Martini. By N ridge. |
4. | 1980 | May 14 May 17 |
Japanese expedition. H. Kawamura, R. Pukada, N. Sakashita, S. Susuki, Aug Phurbu. M. Konishi, M. Omiya, T. Sakano, Pemba Tsering, Dawa Norbu. by new route on N face. |
5. | 1980 | May 15 |
West German expedition. G. Ritter, Nima Dorje, Lhakpa Gyalbu. by SW face. |
6. | 1980 | May 9 |
Japanese expedition. K. Fujikura, A. Hosaka, K. Katacka, S. Suzuki, N. Yamada, 1 Sherpa. From SW. |
7. | 1981 | May 20 |
Czechoslovak expedition. J. Psotka, L. Zahoransky. By N face. |
8. | 1981 | French expedition. M. Paramentier, J.-J. Ricouard. From the SW; 1st post monsoon ascent. |
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9. | 1982 | May 2 |
Italian expedition. I. Menabreaz, O. Squinobal, Ang Temba. By SW face. |
10. | 1982 | May 6 |
Italian expedition. R. Messner, J. Mutschlechner, Ang Dorje. By N face and N ridge. |
11. | 1983 | May 28 |
Austrian expedition. G. Bachler. from the SW. |
12. | 1983 | Oct 17 |
French expedition. P. Beghin. from the SW, solo. |
13. | 1983 | Oct. 21 |
Swiss expedition. M. Bruchez, V. May. From the N. |
14. | 1984 | May 19 May 20 |
Japanese expedition. T.Ozaki, Ang Tshering. from SW. T. Mitani, S. Wada. Via S and Central summits. |
15. | 1984 | Oct. 18 |
Canadian expedition. R. Marshall, by SW face. |
5. | 1981 | April 30 |
Bulgarian expedition. C. Prodanov. by W face. |
6. | 1983 | Oct. 9 Oct. 10 Oct. 11 |
Japanese expedition. K. Murakami, T. Ozaki, N, Yamada. T. Kagawa, T. Miyazaki, Dawa Norbu. K. Takahashi, S. Suzuki, Pemba Norbu. by W face. |
7. | 1980 | May 15 |
American expedition. J. Roskelley. by W face and W ridge. |
8. | 1981 |
April 25 | Austrian expedition. R. Schauer. by N face. |
9. | 1981 | Oct. 5 |
Anglo-Polish expedition. J. Kukuczka. solo ascent by W face. |
10. | 1982 | May 20 |
South Korean expedition. Heo Young-Ho, Pasang Norbu, Ang Phurba. by SE ridge. |
11. | 1982 | Sept. 30 | Japanese expedition. M. Ishibashi, K. Yuda, Y. Michiwaki. by N ridge. |
12. | 1982 | Oct. 10 |
Polish-Brazilian expedition. A. Czok. by new route on W face. |
13. | 1984 | May 16 |
Spanish expedition. M. Abrego, K. de Pablo. by original French route |
14. | 1984 | Sept. 29 | Swiss expedition. R. Nottaris. variation on W face. |
8. | 1980 | May 13 May 14 May 17 May 18 May 19 |
Eiselin Commercial expedition. H. von Kaenel, F. Luchsinger, Ang Rita. J. Buchholzer, R. Monnerat, H. J. Muller, H. Zimmerman. H. Burgstaller, H. Eital, F, Graf. M. Ballman, R. Bleiker, M. Reudi, Lhakpa Gyalzen, Mingma Gyalzen. S. Burkhardt, J. Mueller, Ang Rita. |
9. | 1980 | May 18 |
British expedition. A. Maclntyre, R. Ghilini, W. Kurtyka, L. Wilczynski. 1st ascent by E face and NE spur. |
10. | 1981 | May 17 |
Anglo-Canadian expedition. Adrian and Alan Burgess. |
11. | 1981 | June 2 |
Japanese expedition. H. Kamuro. |
12. | 1982 | May 5 May 6 |
Belgian expedition. P. Cornelissen, R. van Schick, Ang Rita, M. Caston, J. van Hees, L. Vivijs, Ang Jangbo. |
13. | 1982 | Oct. 17 | Japanese expedition. T. Mitani, J. Tanaka. |
14. | 1982 | Oct. 18 |
Japanese expedition. K. Komatsu, Y. Saito, N. Yamada. 1st ascent by N face and NW ridge. |
15. | 1982 | Dec. 13 |
Japanese expedition. A. Koizumi, Nima Wangchu. 1st winter ascent. |
16. | 1983 | May 18 |
Polish expedition. M. Gardzielewski, J. Jezierski, T. Laukajtys, W. Otreba. |
17. | 1984 | Oct. 4 |
French expedition. P. Beghin, J-N. Roche. 2nd ascent by S pillar. |
18. | 1984 | Oct. 23 |
Czechoslovak expedition. K. Jakes, J. Simon, J. Stejskal. 1st ascent of W face. |
8. | 1980 | April 28 |
Korean expedition. Seo Dong Hwan, Ang Pasang, Ang Zawa. from the NE. |
9. | 1981 | May 7 May 9 May 19 |
Austro-German expedition. H. von Kaenel, J. Mecke, Wangchu. F. Graf, K. Horn, A. Loferer, H. J. Mueller, H. Zebrowski. W. Heimbach, S. Millinger, R. Schleypen, S. Worner, P. Weber, P. Worgotter, Pasang. from the NE. |
10. | 1981 | Oct. 7 |
French expedition. P. Beghin, B. Muller. by new route on W face. |
11. | 1981 | Oct. 12 Oct. 14 |
Japanese expedition. J. Ozaki.Y. Kato, T. Tomita. from the NE. |
12. | 1982 | Oct. 10 |
Franco-Italian expedition. L. Audoubert, Nawang Tenzing. from the NE. |
13. | 1983 | Oct. 22 |
Korean expedition. Y. Ho Huh from the NE. |
14. | 1983 | Oct. 22 |
German expedition. G. Huerter, H. Streibel, H. Tauber, H. Wehrs, Ang Dorje, Nima Rita, by S face and S ridge. |
15. | 1984 | Jan 12 |
Polish expedition. M. Berbeka, R. Gajewski. 1st winter ascent. |
16. | 1984 | April 30 May 7 May 11 |
Swiss-German expedition. E. Loretan, M. Ruedi. M. Dacher, F. Zintl. N. Joos, Ang Chepal, Wongyal, R. Schnaider, W. Schaffert, G. Sturm. by NE face. |
17. | 1984 | May 4 |
Yugoslav expedition. S. Bozic, V. Groselj. by S. face. |
18. | 1984 | Oct 20 |
Polish expedition. A. Lwow, K. Wielicki by new route on S ridge. |
Illustrated Note 7
A Swiss-Czech expedition led by Z. Lukes attempted a difficult line on the virgin Savoia Kangri (7262 m) in 1982. They climbed ‘Czech Pillar’, in centre till 6600 m before retreating.
Photo: Z. Lukes
Illustrated Note 8
An Austrian expedition led by E. Lindenthaler made the second ascent of Kharchakund in August 1983. They climbed by a new route, NE wall and also by W ridge (original route). Both routes were about 1800 m high and each was climbed in a two-day push.
Illustrated Note 9
Sangemar Mar (7050 m) from Muchichul glacier. Peaks 3, 2 and 1 (1 to r). A Japanese expedition led by T. Matsuo made the first ascent by SW ridge traversing all the peaks. All the members reached the summit with 3000 m of fixed ropes.
4. | 1983 | May 5 |
Italian expedition. M. Dacher, H Kammerlander, R. Messner. by SW ridge and SW face. |
5. | 1984 | May 13 |
Czechoslovak expedition. V. Komarkova, M. Sterbova, Ang Rita, Nuru. by SW ridge and SW face. |
6. | 1984 | Sept. 20 Sept. 21 |
Spanish expedition. A. Llasera, C. Valles, Ang Karma, Shambu Tamang. J. Clemenson, J. Pons, by SW ridge and SW face. |
8. | 1981 | Aug. 5 |
Dutch expedition. R.Naar. By SW ridge. |
9. | 1981 | Aug. 19 |
Italian expedition. S. Fassi, L. Rota, B. Scanabessi. By Diamir face. |
10. | 1982 | June 10 |
Swiss expedition. N. Joos, E. Loretan. by Diamir face. |
11. | 1982 | July 14 |
French expedition H.Engl by Diamir face. |
12. | 1983 | July 10 |
Japanese expedition. N. Nakanishi, M. Taniguchi. by Diamir face. |
13. | 1983 | July 17 |
Austrian expedition. E. Koblmuller. by SW ridge. |
14. | 1983 | Aug. 5 |
Spanish expedition. K.de Pabla, J-L. Zuloaga. by Diamir face. |
15. | 1984 | June 3 |
Swiss expedition. M. Ruedi. Accompanied by two others to 8000 m. by Diamir face. |
16. | 1984 | June 27 |
French expedition. Liliane and Maurice Barrard. 1st ascent by a woman. by Diamir face. |
17. | 1984 | Aug. 7 |
Spanish expedition. O. Cadiach, J. M. Guell. by NW ridge. |
8. | 1980 | May 1 May 2 May 3 |
German expedition. G. Harder, K. Staltmayr, Ang Dorje. W. Broeg, K. Schrag, Ang Tsangi, Maila Pemba. V. Boenning, L. Greissl, H. Oberraueh. by 1977 Dutch route. |
9. | 1981 | Oct. 29 |
Japanese expedition. H. Aota, Y. Yanagisawa. 2nd complete ascent of S face. |
10. | 1982 | May 4 |
International expedition. W. Burkli, T. Hagler, W. Worgotter, Dawa Tenzing. from the N by a variation of preceding routes. |
11. | 1984 | Oct. 23-24 |
Swiss expedition. E. Loretan, N. Joos. 1st traverse of E. Central and Main summits. |
5. | 1980 | July 15 |
French expedition. M. Barrard, G. Narbaud. by SW ridge and S summit. |
6. | 1981 | Aug. 3 |
Japanese expedition. H. Azuma, K. Shimotori. by SE spur. |
7. | 1982 | July 22 |
German expedition. M. Dacher, S. Hupfauer, G. Sturm, via Gasherbrum La and N buttress. |
8. | 1982 | July 27 |
Franco-Swiss expedition. S. Saudan, M-J. Vallencot, J. P. Oilagnier, D. Semblanet, Mohammad Ali. by SE spur. 1st ski descent. |
9. | 1983 | June 23 June 24 |
Swiss expedition. E. Loretan, M. Ruedi. P. Morand, J-C. Sonnenwyl, M. Spicher. via Gasherbrum La and variation on N buttress. |
10. | 1983 | July 23 |
Polish expedition. W. Kurtyka, J. Kukuczka. by new route on SW face. |
11. | 1983 | Aug. 22 |
Spanish expedition. V. Arnal, I. Cinto, J. Escartin, J. Lopez, L. Ortas, A. Ubieto. by new route from SW and S. |
12. | 1984 | June 28 |
Italian expedition. H. Kammerlander, R. Messner. traverse from G. II by N buttress. |
4. | 1981 | Aug. 5 |
Spanish expedition M. Hernandez, E. Pujol, S. Escalera, A. Sors. |
5. | 1982 | July 23 |
German expedition. R. Bartl, P. Gioggner, H. Kirchberger, K. Lewankowski. |
6. | 1982 | July 23 |
Austrian expedition. G. Bachler. A. Furtner, W. Losch. |
7. | 1982 | Aug. 2 | Messner expedition.R. Messner, Nazir Sabir, Sher Khan. |
8. | 1983 | June 26 June 28 |
British expedition.J. Afanassieff, R. Baxter Jones,A. Parkin, A. Rouse.D. Scott, S. Sustad. |
9. | 1983 | Swiss expedition. K. Palmowska (Polish) first all-women's ascent. F.Graf, E. Loretan, M. Ruedi, S. Worner. P. Morand, J-C. Sonnenwyl. |
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10. 11. | 1984 | June 26 | Swiss expedition. |
12. | 1984 | June 26 | Italian expedition. |
13. | 1984 | June 26 |
Polish expedition. T. Hagler (CH), A. Reinhard (CH), M. Prieto (Columbia), L. Deuber (CH), R. Franzl (A). |
July 13 | H. Zebrowski (BRD), R, Schlexpen (D), K. Hub (D). |
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July 13 | G.Calcagno (I), T. Vidoni (I). | ||
July 14 | J. Wlajer (P), R. Pawlowski (P), W. Fuit (P). |
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July 14 | K. Wielicki (P), (1-day ascent-descent.) | ||
July 17 | J. Kukuczka (P), W. Kurtyka (P). (1st traverse of N Central and main summits.) |
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July 18 | K. Diemberger (A), J. Tullis (GB). | ||
14. | 1984 | Aug. 5 Aug. 8 |
French expedition. D. Chatrefou, B. Moreau, J-J and Mme M.Roland. R. Joswig, R. Schauer. |
2. | 1980 | May 11 May 12 |
German expedition. M. Dacher, W. Schaffert, G. Sturm, F. Zinte. S. Hupfauer, M. Sturm. |
3. | 1980 | Oct. 13 | Austrian expedition. E. Obojes, E. Putz. |
4. | 1981 | April 30 | Japanese expedition. Y. Tabei, 2 Chinese. |
5. | 1981 | May 28 |
Mixed expedition. R. Messner, F. Mutschlechner. by new route on N face. |
6. | 1982 | May 28 |
British expedition. R. Baxter Jones, A. Maclntyre, D. Scott, by new route on SW face. |
7. | 1982 | Oct. 10 Oct. 12 Oct. 12 |
Japanese expedition. M. Hara, H. Komamiya, H. Konishi. T. Chiba, M. Ohmiya. M. Tomita. |
8. | 1983 | April 29 | German expedition. U. Schum, Josep and Marianne Walter. |
9. | 1983 | Sept. 30 | American expedition. M. Browning, C, Pizzo, G. Porzak. |
10. | 1984 | May 6 May 8 |
American expedition. D. Howe, M. Jenkins, D. Kelly, M. Wingert. S. Creer, M. Lehner. |
7. | 1980 | Aug. 2 | Japanese expedition. M. Fukushima, K. Imada, H. Sato. |
8. | 1980 | Aug. 2 | Spanish expedition. P. Aymerich, E. Font. |
9. | 1981 | June 29 | Austrian expedition. F. and G. Neumayer. |
10. | 1981 | Aug. 3 | Swiss expedition. R. Nottaris, R, Zund. |
11. | 1981 | Aug. 6 | French expedition. E. Beaud, P. Grenier, C. Janin, Sher Khan. |
12. | 1982 | June 9-10 June 11 |
Austrian expedition. M. Gruner, G. Kaser, G. Markl,R. Renzler. J. Trattner. |
13. | 1982 | June 12 | French expedition. M. Barrard, A. Bontemps. |
14. | 1982 | June 24 | Messner expedition. R. Messner, Nazir Sabir, Sher Khan. |
15. | 1983 | June 25 | Swiss expedition. F. Graf, E. Loretan, A. Meyer, M. Ruedi, J-C. Sonnenwyl, S. Worner. |
16. | 1983 | July 1 | Polish expedition. W. Kurtyka, J. Kukuczka, by SE spur and E ridge. |
17. | 1984 | June 25 | Italian expedition. H. Kammerlander, R. Messner. traversed to G. I. |
18. | 1984 | Aug. 6 | French expedition. P. Bournat, W. Pasquier. 1st ski descent. |
19. | 1984 | July 31 | French expedition. J. Demarolle, P. Gleizes, P. Guedu, F. Maurel. |
Since these records were compiled the Nepalese authorities have adopted new heights for the following five peaks:
Kangchenjunga 8586 m—28,170 ft
Lhotse 8516 m—27,941 ft
Makalu 8463 m—27,767 ft
Cho Oyu 8201 m—26,907 ft
Manaslu 8163 m-—26,783 ft