EXPEDITIONS 1978- 1980

  1. 1978 KARAKORAM
  2. HINDU RUSH
  3. 1979 SIKKIM
  4. NEPAL
  5. GARHWAL
  6. KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  7. KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
  8. KARAKORAM
  9. HINDU KUSH
  10. 1980 SIKKIM
  11. NEPAL (Pre-monsoon)
  12. NEPAL (Post-monsoon)
  13. GARHWAL
  14. KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
  15. KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
  16. KARAKORAM
  17. CHINA

 

 

1978 KARAKORAM
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Teram Kangri II (7406 m - 24,300 ft. Indian Army Col N. Kumar Climbed 13/10
2 Choricho (6756 m 22,165 ft.) Scottish H. McNickoll Attempted

 

 

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HINDU RUSH
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 (a) Darban Zom (7219 m) British S. Parr Attempted
(b) Pt 6166 m (S of Udren An pass) Climbed
2 Tirich Mir I (7706 m) Japanese K. Ikebe Climbed 26/7

 

 

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1979 SIKKIM
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Lama Anden (5944 m - 19,500 ft) Climber's Circle, Bengal B. Nayak Attempted

 

 

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NEPAL
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Cho-Oyu (8153 m - 26,750 ft) German M. Saleki Climbed solo, 10/10
2 Patal Hiunchuli (6441m-21,133 ft) Shakunage Dojin, Japan H. Asane Attempted
3 (a) 'Sosat' (5800 m- 19,030 ft)
(b) 'Raski* (5300 m - 17,390 ft) (Annapurna group)		 Italian M. C. Guerat Climbed
Climbed
4 Kusum Kangguru (North peak) (6369 m - 20,897 ft) (a)British
(b)Takamatsu Workers Alpine Federation, Japan
(c)New Zealand		 Doug Scott
K. Kanazawa
-		 Climbed 16/9
Climbed 21/10
Attempted
5 Kangde Shar (6190 m - 20,313 ft) L. Griffin
R. Everett		 Climbed
6 Bedingtse (5136 m - 16,851 ft) Polish A. Sklodowski Climbed

 

French expedition to South pillar of Dhaulagiri I led by Jean Coudray, 1980.

Illustrated Note 6

French expedition to South pillar of Dhaulagiri I led by Jean Coudray, 1980. They returned to complete their unfinished route but did not proceed to the summit due to bad weather, (See H.J. 36)

First ascent of Manaslu North II (right) by Czechoslovak Krkonose expedition 1979 ied by V. Krupicka.

Illustrated Note 7

First ascent of Manaslu North II (right) by Czechoslovak Krkonose expedition 1979 ied by V. Krupicka. They reached the summit by following Larkya glacier to north ridge. Two groups summated on 16 and 20 October 1979.

 

 

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GARHWAL
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Koteshwar (c. 6000 m - c. 19,600 ft) Indian Ladies U. Jagirdar Climbed
2 Pt 21,740 ft (On Sunder Bamak,Gangotri) Himalayan Lovers Assn., Calcutta P. Chakraborty Attempted
3 Pt. 6648 m (21,810ft) (Near Devtoli) Japanese Polish K. Hirasawa S. Z. Zdrojewski 1st ascent 22/9 Attempted
4 (a) Bhagirathi II (6512 m - 21,364 ft)
(b)Bhagirathi III (6454 m - 21,176 ft)
(c) Pt c. 6556 m (21,510 ft) (Near Bhagirathi I)		 Czechoslovakian Z. Lukes Climbed 1/10
Climbed 7/10
Climbed 4/10
5 Rishikot (6236 m - 20,460 ft) Polish T. Karolczak R. Pawlowski 1st ascent 9/9
6 Mrigthuni (6855 m- 22,490 ft) Spanish A. S. Garcia Attempted

 

 

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KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Pt 6464 m (21,209 ft) (On Bara Shigri glacier) Indian T. Manab Climbed
2 (a) Chota Shigri I (c. 5389 m - c. 17,680 ft)
(b) Pt 20,300 ft		 British N. Groves 1st ascent
1st ascent
3 Pt 5940 m (On Bara Shigri) Himanish, India K. Chakraborty Climbed 3/10

 

 

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KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Brammah's Wife (5279 m - 17,320 ft) (a) Polish
(b) Polish		 R. Urbanek W. Fiut Climbed Climbed (NW ridge)
2 Susuk (5790 m - 18,997 ft) Italian A. Mastellaro Climbed
3 Lasli Toghor (5570 m - 18,275 ft) Italian G. Tosi Climbed
4 Pt 5900 m (Matho group) Italian R. Martini Climbed solo
5 Pt 6013 m (19,730 ft) (E. of Eiger) Polish M. Kokaj Climbed Sept.
6 Pt 6560 m (21,525 ft) (Kishtwar) Konan Univ., Japan K. Shibuya 1st ascent 13/8
Korean Manaslu expedition 1980 by Dongguk Alpine Club, Seoul, led by InJung Lee

Illustrated Note 8

Korean Manaslu expedition 1980 by Dongguk Alpine Club, Seoul, led by InJung Lee. Summit climbed on third attempt by a member and Sherpa on 28 April.

Spanish expedition from Gijon to Mrigthuni (6855 m) in 1980.

Illustrated Note 9

Spanish expedition from Gijon to Mrigthuni (6855 m) in 1980. They attempted from unclimbed south face reaching the summit on 11 September.

 

 

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KARAKORAM
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Trivor (7720 m) Czechoslovakian J. Foltanek Attempted
2 K2 (8610 m) French B. Mellet Attempted
3 Rakaposhi (7788 m) Waseda Univ., Japan A. Ohtani Climbed 2/8
4 Nanga Parbat (8125 m) French French J. P. Fresa Fond
W. Rupert		 Attempted
Attempted
5 Diran (7268 m) Spanish A. Fernandes Climbed 11/7
6 Broad Peak (8047 m) Spanish M. Lopez Attempted
7 Chogolisa NE (7654 m) Japanese Y. Maruyama Attempted
8 Pt 6960 m (Near Latok) British R. C. Perriment Attempted
9 Hardinge (7024 m) Kanseigakuin Univ., Japan M. Kawazoe Attempted
10 Gasherbrum II (8035 m) German H. Schell Climbed 31/7 and 4/8
11 Lupghar Sat W (7198 m) - H. Gloggner Attempted

 

 

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HINDU KUSH
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Ghamber Zom Japanese Y. Isomada Attempted
2 Tirich Mir Group
I (7487 m)
II (7480 m)
III (7400 m)
IV (7338 m)		 Italian Alpine Club ---- Traversed 2 to4/8
3 (a) Tirich Mir WestI (7487 m)
(b) Ghul Zom (6778 m)		 Italian - Attempted Climbed
4 Kosta Gol Zom (c. 5000 m) Italian E. Sagliani Climbed Aug.
5 Sararich (6225 m) Japanese M. Sangakukai Attempted
6 (a) Buni Zom (6551 m)
(b) Khorabar Zom (5850 m)
(c) Panorama Peak (5690 m)		 British R. J. Isherwood Climbed
Climbed
Climbed

 

 

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1980 SIKKIM
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Guicha (6127 m-20,103 ft) Indian A. K. Roy Attempted
2 Gurudongmar (6715 m-22,032 ft) Assam Rifles Indian Army - Climbed

 

 

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NEPAL (Pre-monsoon)
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Annapurna I (8091 m-26,545 ft) W. German G. Harder Climbed
2 Annapurna II (7937 m-26,041 ft) (a) Polish
(b) Japanese		 J. Michalski I. Tanabe Attempted
Climbed
3 Annapurna III (7555 m-24,787 ft) Australian W. Deacock Attempted
4 Api (7132 m-23,399 ft) British Major Agnew Attempted
5 Baruntse (7220 m-23,688 ft) (a) French
(b) Spanish		 J. Graux J. Lopez Attempted
Climbed 27/4
6 Dhaulagiri I (8167 m-26,795 ft) (a) British
(b) Swiss		 A. Maclntyre
H. v. Kaenel		 Climbed (E. Face)
Climbed
7 Everest (8848 m-29,028 ft) (a) Polish
(b)Spanish		 A. Zawada
J. Lorente		 Climbed (S. Pillar)
Climbed 14/5
8 Fang (7650 m-25,089 ft) Austrian J. Mayerl 1st ascent 17/5
9 Ganesh II (7150 m-23,460 ft) Japanese Y. Arai Attempted
10 Ganesh V (6950 m-22,802 ft) Japanese Dr Y. Nagao 1st ascent 22/4
11 Tseringma (6333 m-20,778 ft) Australian Maj P. A. Culiinan 1st ascent
12 Kangchenjunga (8598 m-28,208 ft) (a) Sangaku Doshikai, Japan
(b) German		 M. Konishi
K. Herrligkoffer		 Climbed, N. Face, 14/5 and 17/5
Climbed
13 Manaslu (8156 m-26,760 ft) (a)Polish
(b) Korean		 J. Ferenski
In Jung Lee		 Attempted
Climbed 28/4
14 Numbur (6954 m-22,816 ft) Japanese S. Kitaoka Attempted
15 Sisne Himal N (6470 m-21,228 ft) Swiss R. Meier Climbed
16 Tamserku (6608 m-21,680 ft) Japanese K. Okano Climbed
17 Tilicho (7132 m-23,400 ft) German-Swiss Dr J. Biel Attempted
18 Yalungkang (8420 m-27,625 ft) Mexican Prof J. M. C. Becena Climbed 4/5
19 Kangguru Japanese S. Kikuchi Attempted
20 Lamjung (6986 m-22,921 ft) Japanese H. Hagiwara Climbed 13/5
21 Langtang Lirung (7239 m-23,750 ft) British M. Searle Attempted
22 Lhotse (8511 m-27,293 ft) (a) French
(b) Spanish		 N. Jaeger
A. Bahi		 Attempted
Attempted
23 Makalu I (8481 m-27,824 ft) American J. Roskelley Climbed (W.Pillar)
24 Makalu II (7640 m-25,060 ft) American G. White Attempted

 

 

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NEPAL (Post-monsoon)
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Ama Dablam (6856 m-22,495 ft) (a) Japanese
(b) New Zealand		 Y. Kato
R. Brice		 Climbed N. Face
Climbed 18-21/10
2 (a) Annapurna HI
(b) E Summit (6900 m)		 Swiss D. Bertholet Climbed N. Face 1st ascent
3 Everest (a) Italian-Nepa- lese
(b) Polish		 F. Santon A. Zawada Attempted
Climbed 17/2 (1st Winter ascent)
4 Ganesh III (7138 m-23,419 ft) Japanese S. Imai Attempted
5 Lhotse Austrian R. Messner Attempted solo
6 Pumori (7145 m-23,442 ft) (a) Italian
(b) Japanese		 T. Klingendrath Y. Iwazoe Attempted
Climbed 21/10
7 Gauri Shankar (7150 m-23,460 ft) Nepalese-Japanese R. Ichihasi Attempted
8 Tilicho Swiss G. Bumann Climbed
9 Annapuma I W. German L. Greissl Attempted
10 Annapurna IV (7525 m-24,688 ft) W. German F. Kroell Climbed 23/10 (N. Face)
11 Dhaulagiri I French J. Coudray Attempted via S. Pillar
12 Langtang Lining Japanese I. Otsuka Climbed S. face
13 Churen Himal (7371 m -24,184 ft) Italian O. Frachey Attempted
14 Ganesh II Nepalese - Swiss P. Molinari Attempted
15 Ganesh IV (7102 m-23,302 ft) French M. Feuillarade Climbed
16 Baruntse Utsunomiya Univ., Japan T. Saito Climbed
17 Makalu II British Doug Scott Climbed 5/10
18 Manaslu (a) Czechoslovakia ladies
(b) Austrian		 Dr M. Sterbova H. Schell Attempted Attempted
19 Nilgiri N. (7061 m-23,167 ft) Korean I. H. Oh Attempted
20 Tuckche (6920 m-22,703 ft) Japanese T. Morimoto Climbed 28/9

 

 

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GARHWAL
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Bhrigupanth (6772 m-22,219 ft) American-Indian (Ladies) A. Blum 1st ascent 19/6
2 a) Kedarnath (6940 m- 22,770 ft)
(b) Kedar Dome (6831 m- 22,410 ft)
(c) Bharte Khunta (6578 m- 21,580 ft)		 Rajput regiment Indian Army Lt Col P. L. Kukreti Climbed 22/5
Climbed 22/5
Climbed 24/5
3 Kedar Dome Japanese (Ladies) N. Takamoto Climbed 31/5 and 2/6
4 Bharte Khunta Indian (Ladies) U. Jagirdar Climbed
5 Kalindi (6102 m-20,020 ft) (a) Explorers & Adventurers Bombay (Ladies)
(b) Pune (Ladies)		 K. Saraswathi
A. Joshi		 Climbed
Attempted
6 (a) Kamet (7756 m- 25,447 ft)
(b) Abi Gamin (7355 m- 24,130 ft)		 E.M.E., Indian Army Maj J. K. Bajaj Climbed 1/6
Climbed 1/6 (both at 1300 hrs)
7 Kharchakund (6612 m-21,694 ft) Torei Climbing Group, Japan S. Miyahara Climbed 29-30/4
8 Nanda Devi (7817 m-25,645 ft) Sappers, Indian Army Capt J. Bahuguna Attempted
9 Panwali Doar (6663 m-21,860 ft) Japanese K. Nakae 1st ascent
10 'Ekdant' (c. 6126 m- c. 20,100 ft) (Near Neelkanth) The Himalayan Club, Bombay S. Kulkarni 1st ascent 7/6
11 Black Peak (6387 m-20,956 ft) NCC., Indian Col J. Singh Climbed 19/6
12 Maiktoli (6803 m-22,320 ft) Spanish G. Arias Climbed 1/10
13 Dunagiri (7066 m-23,184 ft) Austrian W. Stefan Attempted
14 Trisul (7120 m-23,360 ft) German W. Walcher Climbed 12/6
15 Mrigthuni Spanish Climbed (S. Face)
16 Rudugaira (5818 m-19,090 ft) Indian (Ladies) S. Auwalikar Climbed 3/10
17 Nanda Ghunti (6309 m-20,700 ft) Parvat Abhiyatri Sangh, Calcutta N. Bose Climbed 18/5
18 Shivling (6543 m-21,466 ft) (a) Japanese
(b) Japanese		 K. Kurauchi
N. Yasuda		 Climbed 20/6
Climbed 4/9
19 Vasuki Parbat (6793 m-22,285 ft) Japanese K. Nake 2nd ascent 15/9
20 Bhagirathi I (6856 m-22,495 ft) Japanese M. Toshiro Attempted
21 Deoban (6855 m-22,490 ft) Gunners, Indian Army Lt Col D. K. Climbed Khullar Climbed

 

 

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KULU — LAHUL — HIMACHAL
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Leo Pargial (6791 m-22,280 ft) St Stephen's College Centenary Expedition, New Delhi R. Bhattacharji Attempted
2 CB 53 (6096 m-20,000 ft) Jumma Alpine Club, Japan T. Mirakami Climbed 7, 8, 11/8
3 Deo Tibba (6001 m-19,687 ft) (a) St Stephen's College, Delhi (Ladies)
Thane Mountaineers, Bombay		 P. Pathak
V. Gadre		 Climbed 9/6
Climbed
4 Kulu Pumori (6553 m-21,500 ft) Pune Mountaineers, India U. Bhide-Sathe Climbed
5 Lion (6126 m-20,100 ft) Jadavpur Univ., India A. B. Choudhary Climbed 2/10
6 Menthosa (6444 m-21,140 ft) Austrian G. Gruber Climbed 29/7
7 Tapugiri (5867 m-19,250 ft) R. A. F. British Sqr Ldr E. J. M. Thomas Attempted
8 KR 3 (6157 m-20,200 ft) British Lt Col D. Hardy 1st ascent
9 Pt 20,101 ft (S. Parbati) The Climbers Club, Bombay Ravi Kamath Attempted
10 Pt c. 19,000 ft (5791 m) On Bara Shigri glacier Giri-Doot, Bengal K. Chakraborty Climbed
11 Pt 19,530 ft (S. of Dharamsura) Ichapore, Bengal S. N. Kar Climbed

 

 

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KASHMIR — LADAKH — KISHTWAR
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 (a) Barnaj II (6290 m- 20,637 ft)
(b) South (6150 m- 20,180 ft)
(c) Central (6170 m- 20,244 ft)		 Tokyo College, Japan Y. Kubota Attempted
1st ascent 13/8
1st ascent 13/8
2 'Flat Top’ (6100m-20,068 ft) British Maj R. Wilson Climbed Aug.
3 Chiring British C. Lloyd Climbed
4 Agyasol (6200 m-20,397 ft) British Attempted
5 Sickle Moon (6574 m-21,569 ft) British R. Rutland Attempted
6 Brammah I (6416 m-21,050 ft) French S. Emenaul Climbed 29/9
7 (a) Pt 6013 m
(b) (Kejai Nala)		 Polish K. Lozinski Climbed
(b) Arjuna Climbed
8 Nun (7135 m-23,410 ft) Austrian W. Knezicek Climbed 11/7
9 Kun (7087 m-23,230 ft) Austrian H. Klaus
H. Gunther		 Attempted
Climbed 24/7
10 (a) ZI (6400 m- 21,150 ft)
(b) 'Independence Peak' (Near ZI)		 Hokkaido Univ., Japan M. Ouchi 1st ascent 20/8
Climbed 15/8
11 (a) Flavia (5810 m- 19,115 ft) Italian A. Bergamaschi Climbed 11/8
(b) Bologna (6110 m- 20,101 ft) 1st ascent 5-13/8
(c) Pyramid (5930 m- 19,509 ft) 1st ascent 10/8
(d) Modena (5710 m- 18,785 ft) 1st ascent 12/8
(e) White Wall (5680 m- 18,686 ft) 1st ascent 15/8
(f) Pt 5330 m (17,535 ft) (Durung Drunag glacier, Zanskar) Climbed 16/8

 

 

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KARAKORAM
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 K2 British P. Boardman Attempted
2 K7 (6935 m) British R. Tonn Attempted
3 Baltoro Kangri V (7260 m) British Dr Elston Climbed 6/6
4 Gasherbrum I (8068 m) French M. Bernard Climbed
5 Broad Peak French G. Bettembourg Climbed
6 Apsaras I (7245 m) Indian Army Brig K. N. Thadani Climbed 18/9
7 Tirich Mir E. (7692 m) Canadian- American M. Foubister Attempted
8 Sakyang Kangri (7544 m) British J. Lowe Attempted
9 Chogolisa (c. 7665 m) American- Canadian H. Weaver Attempted
10 Pt c. 6000 m (S. Barum glacier ) American G. Porzak Climbed July
11 Gasherbrum IV (7925 m) American S. Swenson Attempted
12 Mitre Italian Y. Ghirardini 1st ascent solo
13 Uzun Brakk British -- Climbed
14 Nanga Parbat French Spanish Y. Seigneur
L. Fraga		 Attempted
Attempted
15 Mohmil Sar (7342 m) Spanish A. L. Rodrigues Attempted
16 (a) Disteghil Sar E. (7700 m)
(b) Yazgh Dome (7440 m)		 Polish --
17 Gasherbrum II (a) Spanish
(b) Japanese		 E. Font
--		 Climbed 1/8
Climbed 1/8
18 Ghent S. (7401 m) West German B. Scherzer Climbed 18/6

 

 

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CHINA
No Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Everest (a) Austrian
(b) Japanese		 R. Messner
Y. Kato		 Climbed Solo, From N. 20/8
Climbed NE. ridge 3 and 10/5
2 Kongur (7719 m) British C. Bonington Attempted
3 Gongga Shan (Minya Konka) (7162 m) American
American		 L. Reichardt
Y. Chouinard		 Attempted
Attempted
4 Mustagh Ata (7546 m) American N. Gillette Climbed
5 Gosainthan (Shisha Pangma) (8012 m) West German Prof M. Abelein Climbed 15/5

 

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Himalayan Journal 37
Editor: Harish Kapadia Published Year: 1981
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
    (Harish Kapadia)
  2. YUGOSLAV EVEREST EXPEDITION
    (TONE SKARJA)
  3. AUSTRIAN LHOTSE EXPEDITION AULEX, 1979
    (ERICH VANIS)
  4. POLISH LHOTSE EXPEDITION, 1979
    (ADAM BILCZEWSKI)
  5. THE BRITISH-NEPALESE GAURI SHANKAR EXPEDITION, 1979
    (PETER BOARDMAN)
  6. AUSTRALIAN GAURI SHANKAR (TSERINGMA) EXPEDITION
    (P. A. CULLINAN and G. BRAMMER)
  7. MAKALU WEST PILLAR
    (JOHN ROSKELLEY)
  8. TUKUCHE WEST PEAK (6780 m) EXPEDITION
    (RENE COLLET)
  9. ANNAPURNA III, SOUTH FACE
    (RON and LINDA RUTLAND)
  10. SWISS SISNE HIMAL EXPEDITION, 1980
    (RUEDI MEIER)
  11. DHAULAGIRI EAST FACE EXPEDITION
    (ALEX MACINTYRE)
  12. SIKKIM HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1979
    (SAMARENDRA NATH DHAR)
  13. SINIOLCHU*
    (SONAM WANGYAL)
  14. ASCENT OF RATABAN AND CANOEING/ RAFTING THE MANDAKINI AND ALAKNANDA RIVERS
    (COL BALWANT S. SANDHU)
  15. SATOPANTH GLACIER EXPEDITION, 1980
    (SHASHANK KULKARNI and SOUMITRA WADALKAR)
  16. GUERILLAS IN THE GARHWAL
    (JOHN THACKRAY)
  17. CZECHOSLOVAKS OVER THE SOURCES OF THE GANGA
    (ZDENEK LUKES)
  18. VASUKI PARBAT
    (N. G. CLEAVER)
  19. RAKTVARN GLACIER AND ASCENT OF UNNAMED VIRGIN PEAKS
    (RANVIR SINGH)
  20. KINNAUR, 1980
    (SUDHIR SAHI)
  21. EXPEDITION TO THE DHARLANG VALLEY, PANGI AND ZANSKAR
    (N. A. PITTS-TUCKER)
  22. AIRMEN IN LAHUL
    (WING COMMANDER N. M. RIDLEY)
  23. A TREK IN LADAKH AND ZANSKAR
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  24. TERAM KANGRI II EXPEDITION
    (COL N. KUMAR)
  25. LADAKH, 1979
    (AAMIR ALI)
  26. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CHORICHO1
    (GEOFFREY CHILDS)
  27. THE 'OBVIOUS LINE': ULI BIAHO
    (JOHN ROSKELLEY)
  28. THE CHILEAN KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1979
    (GASTON OYARZUN)
  29. RISK *
    (MIKE THOMPSON)
  30. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  31. EXPEDITIONS 1978- 1980
  32. IN MEMORIAM
  33. BOOK REVIEWS
  34. CORRESPONDENCE
  35. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1980