CZECHOSLOVAKS OVER THE SOURCES OF THE GANGA

ZDENEK LUKES

IN THE days from 21 September to 9 October, 1979, an eleven-member expedition of the Mountaineering Section of the 'Prague-Bank' Physical Culture Union operated in the Gangotri glacier area of the Indian Himalaya. On 1 October, it reached the summit of Bhagirathi II {6512 m), on 4 October, a high point (c. 6556 m) on Bhagirathi I (6856 m) and on 8 October, the summit of Bhagirathi III (6454 m). In the three ascents mentioned the following five expedition members took part: Zdenek Lukes, leader of the expedition, participated in all three ascents; Meritorious Master of Sports Leopold Palenicek, and Karel Jerhot took part in ascending the high point and Bhagirathi III, Bhagirathi II having been ascended by the head of the expedition accompanied by Jan Strasky and Jiri Vitha.

On 4 August, 1979, seven expedition members left Prague by road.

Throughout our way to the mountains we were accompanied by the Ganga. Having started from the sacred Rishikesh, we covered 150 picturesque kilometres to Uttarkashi where we were surprised by the very well equipped Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. Just when getting accustomed to the idea of leaving the civilization and facing mountaineering difficulties, after a night spent among scorpions and monkeys at the foot of the mountains, we could spend another night in this institution's pleasant dormitories. Here we also received reliable information as to the further possibilities of proceeding, substantial assistance in recruiting porters and approximate information concerning our mountaineering goal.

Under optimal conditions, provided the whole road leading from Rishikesh via Uttarkashi upto Gangotri is passable, the mountaineering area around the Gangotri glacier is very convenient for our type of a small expedition with limited time and financial possibilities but with its own vehicle. From the road head two days are needed to get on foot to the base camp. Within these two days at least a dozen peaks over 6500 metres may be observed closely. On the first day, however, we could follow a carefully maintained path used by pilgrims to Gau- mukh, a place where the Gangotri glacier gives birth to the small river Bhagirathi Ganga.

Nevertheless, prior to our arrival the road had been heavily damaged by monsoons, and 12 kilometres of flooded road followed after the motorable 40-kilometre section from Uttarkashi to Bukhi. The flooded 12 km had to be avoided by taking a provisional trail on the hill-side of valley slopes. Then came the motorable 30 km section from Dabrani to Lanka followed by a non-motorable 2 km section from Lanka to Bhaironghati and by additional 10 motorable kilometres to Gangotri, mentioned above. This complication bereft us of six days and affected our budget since our car had to be left at Bukhi. From there porters were to be used. That is why we recruited them as early as at Uttarkashi.

Photos 22 to 25

The next day, we shifted to Bukhi immediately and started to carry the loads ourselves over the flooded section. When, 17 porters appeared at Bukhi, all the luggage left could be taken by them along with expedition members. On 19 September, at noon, all pieces of baggage were at Dabrani. In the afternoon we went to Lanka by a hired bus and succeeded in carrying the majority of baggage over a gorge to Bhairon- ghati in the dark. On 20 September in the morning, we overtook our advanced group at Gangotri. After four days of separation, the whole expedition and outfit were finally complete for about an hour. On the same day, two thirds of the loads, all porters and all expedition members, with the exception of two keeping guard at Gangotri got to Bhojbas, the last human dwelling and also a sacred place in the Bhagirathi mountain valley at about 3600 m. The next day, the remaining loads were transferred from Gangotri to Bhojbas while the expedition's vanguard, together with the porters reached Nandanban and established base camp to which the last load was brought as late as after two days.

Nandanban is an isolated grassed plateau situated in a place where the Chaturangi valley and the Gangotri glacier are branching off under the beautiful silhouette of Shivling, close to the foot of the Bhagirathi group, at about 4400 m. At the time we arrived there, the plateau was not yet reached by the snow belt, the lean stream yielding water as late as in the afternoon hours, after it had thawed. During the day, temperatures reached 20°C here, the night temperatures sinking to — 10°C, in more elevated places up to — 20°C. It was the plateau where we had to decide which direction to take in order to reach the summits of Bhagirathi group. The next day, two exploration groups set forth: one to the north, along the Gangotri glacier, to explore the western walls, the other one to the east, along the Chaturangi and Vasuki glacier, to explore the Bhagirathi group's eastern and southern walls.

On 24 September, base camp was complete and, simultaneously, reports of both exploration groups were available. The steep western walls over the Gangotri glacier being discouraging, it was decided to proceed from the southeast. Palenicek and Jerhot who had explored this direction, had left a tent there. It became the basis of Camp 1 (5300 m) and was extended as well as supplied within the next four days.

On 27 September, the decision to make a mass assault on Bhagirathi I and II was taken. On 28 September, eight members slept in Camp 1. The way to Bhagirathi I led from Camp 1 to a shallow saddle-back from where it was necessary to descend to the upper part of the Vasuki glacier and to ascend the steep iced slope, to a gallery shaped by a small ascending cwm parallel to the glacier, and running between Bhagirathi I and II. In addition, the access to the peak of Bhagirathi I was cut off by two spires more than 6500 m high. They started to be fix ropes immediately on the steep slope from the glacier to the small cwm.

On 29 September, one group continued fixing rope, the other one setting forth in the direction of Bhagirathi II to establish an assault camp as high as possible, from where the Bhagirathi II peak was to be attempted after reinforcement. The assault tent was pitched at approximately 6000 m, in a place where further advance over the steep slope started to be dangerous. At short intervals the southeastern wall of Bhagirathi II and even more than the opposite wall of Vasuki Parbat were whipped by small as well as larger stone and snow avalanches. All was quiet at the small pre-cwm reached on that day by two of our friends, looking in the distance like tiny dots. On 30 September Lukes, Strasky and Vitha after ten 80 m lengths of combined climbing through rock formations, reached assault camp. Peak was climbed at 5.00 p.m. on 1 October. Close before midnight, they descended to assault camp through a steep snowfield followed by a traverse.

On 2 October, the last assault on Bhagirathi I was started with the aid of prepared fixed ropes. On 4 October, expedition members Palenicek, Jerhot and Lukes reached the nearer of the two spires standing in the way to Bhagirathi I and decided, for technical and time reasons, to conclude the climb. The next day they returned to Camp 1.

On 7 October, the same group of three set forth to the mountainside of Bhagirathi II. They traversed close above the Vasuki's glacier upper circus and having surmounted the exposed edge via the northern cwm between Bhagirathi II and III saddle. They reached the peak of Bhagirathi III (6452 m) on 8 October at 4.30 p.m. From there together with the expedition physician, having waited in Camp 1, the three-member group arrived at base camp on 9 October, several hours after the latter had actually been evacuated. There the group was met by a Czechoslovak Television cameraman. The next day it reached Gangotri and Delhi. Indian kindliness and hospitality had a considerable share in the expedition's success. Thanks to these the visit to India has become one of our most beautiful experiences.

View from Camp 2 of SE and E Wall of Bhagirathi II. (Photos: Z. Lukes)

23. View from saddle above Cmap 1 to unnamed double peak and Bhagirathi I.

View of double peak and Bhagirathi I from ridge on bhagirathi II. (Photo: Z. Lukes)

View from summit of Bhagirathi II of N ridge of Bhagirathi III. (Photp : Z. Lukes)

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