RAKTVARN GLACIER AND ASCENT OF UNNAMED VIRGIN PEAKS

RANVIR SINGH

RAKTVARN IS a major tributary glacier of Gangotri valley in Garhwal Himalaya. The Raktvarn valley is about nine miles long from its head to its terminus and widens up to slightly less than a mile in its middle part. It stretches from head to snout for about 7 miles. A nala, locally known as Kaliganga or Raktvarn, emerging from the snout of the glacier flows down for about 2 miles to finally submerge under the ice-mass of Gangotri glacier. Raktvarn valley has many tributaries, all of them having glaciers. Most of the tributaries lie on the true right side of the main Raktvarn valley including two unnamed small hanging glaciers, and 3 major tributaries; Swetvarn and Thelu. The glaciers in all the above major tributaries do not join Raktvarn glacier but end abruptly before reaching the terminus of the tributary valley. From the snouts of these glaciers, emerge rivers; unnamed nala, Swetvarn nala and Thelu nala. While unnamed nala and Swetvarn nala submerge under the ice-mass of Raktvarn glacier, Thelu nala situated lower down joins Kaliganga or Raktvarn nala. Raktvarn nala also ultimately submerges under the ice-mass of Gangotri glacier. In the upper reaches of Raktvarn glacier an ice-snow sheet descending from Sri Kailas massif forms a gigantic icefall before joining the main glacier. On the true left of Raktvarn glacier lie its two tributary glaciers, Nilambar Bamak uid Pilapani Bamak with a cwm in between the two.

There are a number of peaks around Raktvarn glacier and its tributaries. Most of these peaks still remain unclimbed as the area has not been frequently visited by mountaineering parties. With a view to reconnoitring routes and to attempt peaks, I had organized an expedition during pre-monsoon period of 1977 in the area.¹ Subsequently during post-monsoon periods of 1979 and 1980 also two expeditions were organized by me in the area. All the above expeditions were sponsored by Parvatarohi, Bombay.

1979 — Upper Raktvarn glacier and ascent of unnamed virgin Dome (c. 21,750 ft)

The great mountain massif above the icefall in the upper Raktvarn glacier area is characterized by large snowfields rising in the north up to the main Himalayan crest. The other side of the crest falls abruptly to form steep impregnable walls. At this crest lies Sri Kailas (22,744 the highest peak in the entire Raktvarn glacier area flanked by an unnamed dome (c. 21,750 ft) on west and a subsidiary peak on southwest. During post-monsoon period of 1979, we visited the area for uttempting the above peaks.

 

On 7 September we proceeded from Gaumukh along the true right lateral moraine of Gangotri glacier. The topography of the area has been changing year after year. Further ahead on our route we encountered a slope of loose scree which we crossed carefully and moved ahead up and down above the surface moraine of the glacier to reach a place from where we could see Raktvarn valley in the east. Wc entered the valley after negotiating a slope where scree and boulders were continuously falling from the higher points. For entering into the Raktvarn valley we had to descend a little from the true right side of Gangotri glacier and then traverse across the scree slope and then ascended about 300ft to reach the terminus of Raktvarn valley. The terminus is marked by a ridge formed of boulders and mud. We proceeded along the Raktvarn nala which the local people call Kaliganga. We moved further ahead to reach a gently sloping grassland. However, sheep and goats are not allowed in the valley. The area has also some animal life including bharals. We moved further ahead and crossed a dry stream-bed and then reached the true right bank of Thelu nala which is the usual base camp site in the area. There are plenty of juniper bushes around. The height is around 15,000 ft. From this base camp we could see peaks 17,267 ft and 19,361 ft on the divide between Raktvarn valley and Chaturangi valley. The slope of the divide towards Raktvarn valley is very steep and rocky. The snout of Raktvarn glacier is at a distance of about a mile from the base camp site.

Next day we ferried loads to advance base camp site. For this purpose we crossed Thelu nala and followed the true right scree slope of Raktvarn valley. For crossing a gully we had to carefully descend into the bed of the gully and then ascend on the other side. After a traverse over a scree slope we finally emerged on a plain surface with boulders scattered all round. There was a nala with some water. We dumped our loads near the nala and returned back to base camp.

On 11 September we started for Camp 1 and moved through the big plain to reach its eastern tip. At this tip the scree slope starts. Between the scree slope and the end of the plain there is a gully descending towards the Raktvarn valley. To cross the head of the gully and to reach the scree slope, one has to be careful, because the slope is exposed and a fall at this site could land one on the surface of Raktvarn glacier. We carefully negotiated this patch and descended down to reach the surface of Raktvarn Bamak, turned towards left and started moving up. We walked about a furlong or so on the morainic surface of Raktvarn Bamak and arrived in front of Swetvarn valley. Towards our right on the surface of the glacier we could see many glacial lakes. We reached in front of unnamed Bamak and found a suitable camping site. Next day we ferried loads to Camp 1 situated in front of unnamed valley.

On 14 September we left for Camp 2 with loads. After walking about a mile on the true right slope of Raktvarn valley we turned left where Raktvarn glacier takes a turn to north. While on our way to Camp 2, we could see the gigantic icefall above which stands majestic Sri Kailas flanked by 'Sri Kailas Dome'¹ (c. 21,750 ft) on its west and a subsidiary on its southwest. We could see part of Nilambar Bamak. While on our way back to Camp 1, we could see peaks on the divide between Chaturangi glacier and Raktvarn glacier. We could not find any feasible and safe route to climb these peaks from this side.

 

On 16th we left with loads for Camp 3 site in front of the icefall. We moved along the true right of Raktvarn glacier. On our left we could identify another hanging glacier. The Raktvarn glacier, at this place, is divided into several parts each having its own features. In the middle of the glacier there is a medial moraine ridge. On the sides of the moraine ridge, the slope descends gradually into depressions. These depressions are marked with fresh snow and ice features, and occasional streams. After a furlong from Camp 2, we turned right and entered a maze of snow. We found innumerable pinnacles on the glacier. We descended into a depression carefully and crossed a stream. We established Camp 3 on the medial moraine in front of the icefall on 17th. From Camp 3 we had a wonderful view of the icefall, the peaks at the head of Raktvarn glacier and on the divide between Raktvarn and Nilambar Bamaks. The peak at the head of Raktvarn glacier appeared to be technically difficult. We started from Camp 3 on 19th. Initially we moved upwards on the medial moraine. After a furlong we turned left, entered a depression full of snow pinnacles, moved through it, crossed the glacier stream and started ascending through a snow corridor. Moving up, finally we emerged over a snow plain above the icefall. We carefully negotiated crevasses and decided to camp in front of a large crevasse. Camp 5 was ahead at the end of the crevasses field.

On 21 September we attempted the summit. The weather was fine and the wind was slow. It was an ideal day. Prabhakar Shetty, Arvind Gokhale, Dr Anup Gokli and myself with high-altitude porters Gopal Singh and Narayan Singh started for the attempt. From our camp the route was towards northwest. We zigzagged through many crevasses. Gokhale and Dr Gokli turned back. Immediately after the crevasse zone, we had to walk over a gently sloping snow plain. We ascended the slope and reached above it to find another very large snow plateau. We walked over the snow and identified our route. In front of us the unnamed dome was in view. We also had a view of the west face of Sri Kailas. After a few steps Shetty complained of cold feet and had to return. We continued moving up, reached the base of the col between Sri Kailas and the Dome. From the base we climbed steeply towards left. Finally we emerged on a plain which was higher than the lowest point of the col. From there, we could see the north side of Sri Kailas which was near vertical with a rocky wall. Looking towards far north, we had a view of the landscape on the other side of the main Himalayan crest. Here we had to decide whether we should move towards Sri Kailas or the Dome. For attempting Sri Kailas we had to descend to the col, then ascend the west ridge of Sri Kailas to reach the top. Looking towards the Dome we found it to be nearer and easily accessible. It was also a virgin point. Therefore, we decided to climb it and moved towards the Dome. As we reached nearer the crest the gradient rose. We reached the summit by 12.30 p.m. There was very little space to stand on it. Therefore we gathered in a depression and had a wonderful view all around. Towards east Sri Kailas was still higher than the point where we stood. The ridge leading to Sri Kailas appeared to be steeper. The subsidiary of Sri Kailas was below us. It could, therefore, hardly be identified as a point. We could see the surface of Raktvarn glacier, Chandra Parbat, Satopanth, Vasuki Parbat, Bhagirathi group of peaks and Kedarnath massif. Towards west and southwest, was Matri. The other side of the Dome was very steep and at places near vertical. Descending was not much problem except at places where snow layer was less. We reached the camp at about 4.00 p.m. The sun was still shining brightly. We rested outside our tents enjoying the sun and sipping hot tea.

On 22 September, we wound up the last camp and descended to lower altitudes and returned to Bombay.

1980 — Middle and lower Raktvarn valley and ascent of unnamed virgin peak 19,180 ft

During September-October 1980 the area was again visited by us. The aim of the expedition was to climb peak 19,180 ft and from its summit to reconnoitre routes to virgin peaks 22,298 ft and 22,100 ft through a cwm from the mouth of Pilapani Bamak and to enter into unnamed valley, Swetvarn valley and Thelu valley for reconnaissance of peaks around them.

Ascent of peak 19,180 ft

By 27 September we were established at Camp 1. On 28 September all members left Camp 1 for attempting peak 19,180 ft. Initially we proceeded oh Raktvarn glacier, climbing steeply through a gully on the slope of the peak. Thereafter we reached a plain corridor from where we moved towards right and started ascending towards the summit. The entire route was rocky and full of scree. We continued to move up and then after about 1500 ft climb we encountered occasional snow-patches. Finally we reached the flat summit which was covered with fresh snow because of heavy snowfall only a few days back. On reaching the summit, I went to the edge of the slope descending into the hanging glacier. From there the hanging glacier and the slope from the head of the hanging glacier to the summits of peaks 21,541 ft, 21,000 ft and 20,490 ft could be seen. The entry into the glacier was difficult, both from its mouth as well as from the ridge. We made observations all around us, and could identify peaks at the head of Raktvarn glacier; peaks on the divide between Raktvarn and Nilambar Bamak, and peaks at the head of the cwm. On the way back we met Tarapore climbing up. We returned to camp one after another between 2.30 p.m. and 3.00 p.m. A little later, Tarapore also arrived after climbing the summit.

Unnamed Bamak

On 29 September, Narayan Singh, Gopal Singh and myself left (camp 1 for reconnaissance around unnamed Bamak. We moved down towards the mouth of unnamed Bamak and then entered into unnamed valley over a scree slope and moved up to reach the terminus of the glacier. We followed the true left lateral moraine of the glacier. The lower portion of the glacier is covered with heaps of morainic material. Higher up medial moraine and lateral moraine is clearly defined between which surface and subterranean channels have been formed. We crossed the channel and moved to reach the medial moraine From where on our left (west) we could identify rocky peak 20,180 ft. To climb this peak from either of the sides of the ridge appeared to be technically difficult because of many rocky steps. In front of us we could see peaks 21,710 ft and 22,330 ft. As we moved higher, the wind velocity increased. In the upper portion of the valley there was more snow. Higher up, looking towards west we could see the col between peak 20,180 ft and 21,710 ft. Across the col, we could see peak 21,880 ft at the head of Swetvarn glacier. Finally the morainic portion of the glacier gave way to snow and ice. We moved up the crevassed snowfield very carefully. There was another very steep ridge leading to the summit of peak 21,710 ft just in front of us. The lower portion of the ridge was rocky. Higher up on the route was a camping place, just below the ridge leading to the summit. However, the route required fixed ropes at least in the lower portion. The glacier at the head is highly crevassed. After reconnoitring the glacier we returned to Camp 1.

Nilambar Bamak

On 30 September we moved up on the medial moraine ridge of Raktvarn glacier in front of Nilambar Bamak. On our left the terminus of a hanging glacier was in view. We could see Sri Kailas and also Sri Kailas Dome which we had climbed in September 1979. Ahead of us was the Sri Kailas icefall. Towards our right was Nilambar Bamak full of seracs and an icefall descending from the ridge leading to peak 22,100 ft. Leaving the others on Raktvarn glacier, Gopal, Narain, Bachan and myself entered the Nilambar Bimak through a maze of crevasses and seracs zigzagging our way .across them. We crossed over towards the true right lateral moraine of Nilambar Bamak and continued up over the lateral moraine. Our idea was to find a suitable route to peak 20,470 ft situated on the divide between Nilambar Bamak and Raktvarn Bamak. We went up fo about 18,500 ft and not finding any suitable route returned to Camp 1.

Pilapani Bamak

On 1 October, Prasad, Narayan Singh, Gopal Singh and myself started for recce of the cwm between peaks 22,100 ft and 22,298 ft and also of the entrance of Pilapani Bamak. we crossed the Raktvarn Bamak towards Pilapani Bamak. We continued up till we reached in front of the cwm. From Pilapani Bamak the entire cwm slope from the summits of peaks was visible. Initially it was a gentle snow slope above which between the heights of 18,000 JEt and 19,000 ft there was an icefall, with a rocky feature. Towards point 19,580 ft on the true left side of the cwm there appeared to be a corridor to ascend the icefall. Above the icefall, at an altitude of around 19,000 ft there appeared to be a snow plain which will provide a camp site. There were two ridges coming down from the peak and joining points 19,510 ft and 19,580 ft. We could not see the head of Pilapani glacier because it was hidden from view by the ridge of peat 19,580 ft. From Pilapani no feasible route appeared to be leading to the peaks on its periphery. After completing our reconnaissance we moved down to Camp 1 across the glacier, collected our loads and went down to ABC in front of Swetvarn valley where other members had already arrived.

Swetvarn Valley

On 2 October we moved up inside Swetvarn valley to dump loads near the snout of Swetvarn glacier. A camp was established near the snout for reconnaissance. The divide between Swetvarn and unnamed Bamak is very steep from this side and technically difficult to ascend. Our camp was established near the snout of tine glacier between two streams.

On 4th we left for the ridge leading to Kote shwar. Initially we had to negotiate a very steep scree slope. We contnnued through a snow- slope, occasionally marked with rocky patches. Finally we reached the ridge. The ridge had many rocky steps on the way to Koteshwar and peak 20,230 ft. Moving up on a rocky ridge wve came to the conclusion that this ridge could not be followed for climbing peaks. From the ridge we had a grand view of peaks arouncd us. We identified the cwm by which the usual route to Koteshwar leads through a snow slope. We moved down the ridge quickly, some of us glissading, and reached the camp by noon.

On 5th we moved on Swetvarn glacier for recce of Sudarshan Parbat and other unnamed peaks. We identified Koteshwar and peak 20,230 ft on our left, In front of us was Sudarshan and another ridge dividing Swetvarn Bamak into two parts. We were moving towards the Sudarshan side of the glacier on a medial moraine aridge. On our left was the ridge leading to Sudarshan from the side of peak 20,230 ft. Up to a certain distance, the ridge appeared to be negotiable but near the summit there was a big drop, a very steep portion which appeared to be very difficult. In front of us was a ridge of Sudarshan coming down and ending abruptly. This ridge was dis sected by some gullies. Higher up, there appealed to be a snow-corridor. Between the snow portion and the summit there was a steep rocky portion on the ridge which may be difficult to negotiate. A snow corridor was leading to the ridge of Sudarshan and ending abruptly. It appeared that to reach the ridge was easy, where a camp could also be established, but the real problem would start over the portion when the rocky section leading to the snow cap of Sudarshan starts. At the head of the glacier, peak 20,800 ft appeared to be climbable. We found that peak 20,230 ft can be climbed from this side on the snow slope leading to the summit and from there perhaps reaching Koteshwar will also be possible. Descending down we had a glance towards the other section of the upper Swetvarn. We found that to climb peak 21,710 ft initially a rocky slope of 500 ft had to be negotiated. Once the ridge is gained, then climbing the peak will be easier and from there if sufficient time is available, perhaps to reach 22,330 ft will also be possible. From this side, to climb rocky peak 20,180 ft on the divide between Swetvarn and unnamed Bamak appeared to be very difficult. After completing the reconnaissance around Swetvarn, we rushed down, collected our loads at the snout camp and descended to reach ABC in front of Swetvarn valley on Raktvarn glacier.

Thelu Bamak

On 6 October, we wound up ABC and moved down to the base to enter Thelu valley. We moved very fast, reached the snout of Thelu Bamak and found the remnants of old camps. We climbed up the terminus of the glacier through a morainic corridor in the middle of the glacier from where we could identify peak 20,230 ft and Sudarshan. We could also see Thelu peak in front of us. On our left, at Bhujbas Dhar, there were a number of rocky towers. We returned to base.

We wound up base camp on 8 October and reached Bombay by 16 October 1980.

Members (1979) — Ranvir Singh (leader), Prabhakar Shetty (deputy leader), Dr Anup Gokli, Arvind Gokhale.

(1980) — Ranvir Singh (leader), Kersi Dastur (deputy leader), Prasad Karandikar, Sorab Gandhi, Sarosh Tarapore, B. H. Patwardhan.

 

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