SIKKIM HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1979

SAMARENDRA NATH DHAR

'QUITE INACCESSIBLE owing to hanging glaciers . . . having been all around the base of the ice-wall, seeking for a crack and finding none.'¹ The earliest remark passed in 1883 by the famous British climber W. W, Graham about Pa 11 dim is phenomenally standing as the true assessment of the mountain up till now. Its majestic grandeur and charm has allured several mountaineers since a century but it has defied all attempts to climb and still holds its head high on the azure sky.

Allured by its past the fourth venture of our club, Diganta (Calcutta), took an ambitious plan to climb Pandim and another virgin peak Guicha in the same area during the post-monsoon period of 1979. Pandim (21,953 ft) and Guicha (20,062 ft) are situated in the West Sikkim Himalaya under the shadow of Kangchenjunga. Apart from W. W. Graham's observation, another Briton, H. Baustead, tried the north face and NW. spur in 1926 and was defeated by bad weather. The calculated height gained by him was 20,000 ft on the north face. In 1928, T. H. Somervell and Allsup reconnoitred the NE. ridge.² H. C. }. Hunt and C. R. Cook recommended the south ridge route after looking at NE, NW ridge and also the north face in a reconnaissance expedition in 1940.³ The only Indian attempt was made by the Durgapur Mountaineers' Association of West Bengal in the year 1978 and they failed to reach the summit through the south ridge route as recommended by Hunt. Guicha was attempted once only by an Indian team in 1975 led by A. J. S. Grewal.⁴ But Guicha remained virgin.

The ten-member team composed of Rabin Banerjee (deputy leader), Amitava Majumdar, Ranjan Kr. Mandal, Swapan Kr. Ghosh, Ashoke Roy Chowdhury, Jiban Kr. Paul, Samir Banerjee and Dr Abul Has- nat (members) and myself as the leader, left Calcutta on 1 October^ 1979 and reached New Jalpaiguri next day. After collecting equipments from Darjeeling we entered Sikkim crossing Great Rangit river and reached Jorethang (1000 ft), a small busy town, on 4th. Our 54 mile motor journey ended at Yoksum (5600 ft) via Pelling (6500 ft) on 6th with much difficulties due to bad weather and lack of transport. Pelling and Yoksum are situated on either side of Rimbi Chu, a tributary to Rathong Chu. Pemiangchi Monastery near Pelling and Dubdi Monastery near Yoksum, the oldest of its kind in Sikkim, were worth seeing. Yoksum literally (in Lepcha language) means the meeting place of three lamas. It was the old capital o£ Sikkim.

 

Photos 15-16-17

The old loads of 10 quintals were distributed on 17 yaks and the Caravan of 16 men and the yaks started for Bakhim, an eight miles' trek. The caravan proceeded towards north through leech-infested jungle trail following the true left bank of Rathong Chu. After covering about 7 miles we crossed Prek Chu and a steep 1000 ft ascent landed us to Bakhim forest bangalow (9000 ft). From here we were supposed to follow the course of Prek Chu which originates from Onglakthang glacier near our proposed base camp site.

Next day we made Dzongri (13,200 ft), 8 miles from Bakhim en route to Tsoka (10,000 ft) situated 1000 ft over Bakhim. Tsoka, black lake' in Tibetan dialect, was the last village inhabited by Tibetan refugees.

After Tsoka the trail forked and we continued through (NE) right- hand route while the other one goes to Jamlingthang en route to Chowringkiang, the training spot of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling. We zigzagged through slushy jungle trail on continues ascent through rhododendron jungle until we reached Dzongri La. The weather, unexpectedly bad, continued with addition of heavy downpour till late night.

We left Dzongri for Ongiakthang on 9th morning and proceeded towards north through the yak pasture of Dzongri. We had a steep decent of about 1000 ft to the river bed after moving a mile. We crossed Perk Chu and followed its true lelt bank. The route led through the rhododendron forest with increased slushy snow on trail. The rain with Occasional snowfall had been continued since the morning and at 1 p. m. we reached 1 comparative flat opening Thansing just a few miles short of Onglakthang.

Next day, 10th we lelt Thansing (12,900 ft) amidst rain to establish our base camp Jemathang. Within an hour we crossed Onglakthang (13,600 ft) and found the remains of a camp site. It started snowing at 11.30 a.m. as we reached a place (14,000 ft) almost 2 km before Chemathang. The visibility became poor and we could hardly see objects 50 ft apart. In these circumstances, the movement of the team with yak loads was next to impossible. We found a newly constructed semi finished hut with firewood stacked for trekkers. We saw a big lake covered with ice-sheet a few hundred yards upstream. We decided to establish base camp over there. Eight yaks loaded with necessary climbing gear and food for higher camps started along with the members led by Rabin. The yaks returned at 2.30 p.m. dumping the load on the top of the moraine heap beyond which the road was inaccessible to yaks.

I had a look at the topography of the place. The base camp site was situated at the side of the true left lateral moraine of Onglakthang glacier on the bank of a big moraine lake towards north. The eastern gallery adorned with massive Pandim skirted by settled lateral moraine of a glacier coming down from the southwest face of Pandim. The glacier already retreated up to the ridge, forming a hanging glacier. An unnamed glacier from Forked Peak in the west was feeding Onglakthang glacier, one km north of our base camp. The southern ridge of Pandim with three hanging glaciers leads to a point almost 21,000 ft, SW. of main summit and that point is connected by a narrow corniced ridge to the main summit. The western face has a sheer drop of five thousand feet swept by avalanches from the hanging top. The SW. ridge of Pandim arched towards north forms a northern ridge converging at Guicha La.

 

The last night's snow was melting rapidly over the juniper bush; the stream in front of our hut was oozing out of the glacier tarn bearing crystal-clear water. This tarn, Sungmoteng Cho, is sacred to the Sikkimese and lamas make annual visits to it. 'Tarns have a religious attraction in Sikkim. The nymphs who inhabit them are re-- puted to be the consorts of mountain demons. These particular lakelets are said to mark a place of banishment for lamas whose irregular conduct has caused scandal in their community and who have consequently been condemned to live for a time as hermits in the heart of Nature.'¹ Ashoke alongwith three Sherpas and 2 HAPs made a ferry to the proposed Camp 1 site. The weather started packing up quickly and by 9 a.m. snowfall started accompanied by high northern wind.

12th morning showed bright on the snow-covered base camp. Ami- tava, Ashoke and I with two Sherpas accompanied with other members left base camp at 9 a.m. to establish Camp 1. We reached the top of the moraine over the lake following the scree slope of Pandim within an hour. The weather as usual deteriorated and it started snowing. We followed the true left lateral moraine of Onglakthang glacier, kept a lake named Chamlia Pokhri to our right and reached the Camp 1 site at 11.30 a.m. We pitched 2 tents inside a huge rock overhang. All the ferrying members returned at base. The Camp 1 site was situated at Chemathang (14,900 ft) on a flat strip of land with a stream flowing in the middle in between the true left lateral moraine of Onglakthang glacier and the scree slope of Pandim's west wall. Guicha La, the depression between the eastern rock spur of Guicha and northwest ridge of Pandim, was visible from the place. Coming from the west, the Onglakthang glacier took a turn towards south near the point, where we also had a spectacular view of massive Guicha.

13th morning. Amitava, Pasang and myself started for Guicha La (16,208 ft) at 7 a.m. to recce Guicha and Pandim's north ridge and to find a suitable campsite. The route completely snow-covered passes through a wide flat field named Jemathang (15,000 ft). The weather became dull and it was difficult to move on the snow-covered moraine debris but as we stepped on the crest we were rewarded by the mag- nifiecnt view of Tikuchiya Pokhri encircled by the lateral moraine and Guicha wall. A massive hanging glacier, observed below the peak and the south ridge of Guicha, were pouring down avalanches constantly which were absorbed by Tikuchiya Pokhri. From huge ice-block floating on elliptical Pokhri was issuing a stream through its southern major axis. The saddle between Guicha and its satellite seemed to be the possible route to the summit; but one had to cross that hanging glacier to gain the col on the south ridge which is connected to the saddle by a steep ice bridge. The negotiation of the ice- fall in this present state seemed to be too difficult. The hanging glacier with the icefall was fully crevassed and remained in the state of a tottering chaos. So attempt through that route as made by the Indian Talung Expedition '75 was ruled out. We reached Guicha La at 11 a.m. and had a view of the Talung glacier. We could locate the lakes of Yongyotak. The Talung glacier was also highly crevassed and remained in a chaotic condition. The eastern rock spur of Guicha which merges at Guicha La remains the only alternative for attempting Guicha though the accumulated fresh snow over the rock spur seemed to be dangerous for an immediate attempt. We returned to the camp at 3 p.m. The other members led by Rabin, made a ferry from base camp to Camp 1.

Next morning a close observation of the north ridge of Pandim revealed the remote possibility of gaining the crest from this side, except two gullies on it leading to the ridge situated almost opposite to our Camp 1 which raised a faint hope. The gullies were snow- covered with steep ice-wall leading to a crest which was finally connecting with the icy summit ridge. Other than these two gullies the entire rock-wall towards the south, almost vertical with a minimum rise of 4000 ft was containing potential hazards of rock-fall and avalanche from its corniced top. We decided to negotiate another depression on the ridge towards north just preceding to the two gullies, with a view to observing the other side of the ridge, the route through Talung Glacier to reach the eastern ridge of Pandim and to see the eastern ridge, if possible. We reached on the top of the depression about 17,000 ft at 11 a.m. through the mixed snow and loose rocks over a moderate slope. The weather, already dull, took a bad shape with the onset of snowfall. We waited over the ridge for a clear view and succeeded in observing the immediate surroundings. The other side was completely broken with no access to the main summit ridge. It was terminated on a rock outcrop from the north face of Pandim. The eastern ridge was not visible from that place. We looked at our proposed route to the eastern ridge. We came to the conclusion that it would take at least 4 days to reach the foot of the eastern ridge with increased man-power. But it was difficult for us to afford time and to keep supply line alive with the limited number of members, still engaged in ferrying the load from base. So we had to drop the idea of an attempt through the eastern ridge and only option left was to make an attempt through its northern ridge. We returned to Camp 1 at 3 p.m. and found satisfactory progress of ferrying loads to Camp I.

The foggy morning of the 15th cleared at 7.30 a.m. and we set out to recce the gullies and possible Camp 2 site. Ashoke, Himadri, Karma, Mingma and myself approached the gully over the scree slope. A close look into the first gully at our right was discouraging. The narrow snow-covered gully with vertical rock wall on either side leads to the top of a saddle through moderate 45°-5o° first and then a 700 ft-800 ft of wall with a gradient of 7o°-8o° finally. We noted avalanche marks on the ice-face and found debris at the foot of it. The dividing rock ridge between the two gullies was broken and occasional rock fall from its top marked its nature. The only possibility of gaining the summit ridge through the top of the saddle became dim. We avoided that gully and entered into the 2nd gully with a hope of finding an alternative route to the saddle through its top. Gaining height steadily over the loose stones covered with snow on a 45° slope, we reached a point at about 17,000 ft and found a place just sufficient for one tent at the side of the rock wall to our left. Search for any other camping site yielded no result. After an hour's gruelling struggle of ascending the gully through knee-deep snow with occasional patches of hard ice we reached a point where we found a 200 ft snow tongue with almost 80° gradient to our right, on the dividing ridge of two gullies. The top of the gully towards which we were proceeding was fully covered with cloud. We turned to our left .ind started to climb the rock wall so as to gain the nearest crest which would enable us to have a good look at the saddle as well as the top of the snow tongue just opposite to us on the dividing ridge. We belayed each other on the 3rd degree rock face and gained the crest at 1 p.m. The altitude of this place was approximately 18,000 ft. The weather became completely foggy with visibility being nil. It was bitterly cold, and snowing with lashing wind. We waited there for die weather to clear. We were losing patience slowly as the intensity of western wind approached an intolerable limit. It was 1.15 p.m. and I was thinking of withdrawing. All of a sudden the silvery dome of Guicha was exposed and in the twinkling of an eye the whole pano-rama unveiled before me. The ice dome of Guicha having a big crevasse encircling it, was resting over an ice-wall to its east face. The hanging glacier below the south saddle of Guicha looked horrible. To the north, Simvo massif looked magnificent. A few lakes on Talung Glacier were also observed. Pandim was not visible but I could see the whole valley up to Dzongri along the course of Prek Chu. The snow tongue to the opposite of us on the dividing wall of gullies seemed to be negotiable and from its top we could move along the dividing ridge to gain the saddle. Getting down from the rock face wr glissaded down upto our proposed Camp 2 site and returned to our Camp 1 at 4 p.m. Ashoke, Himadri and Karma returned earlier with no result due to poor weather conditions. In a discussion in the evening Rabin proposed to attempt Guicha first with two members and two Sherpas through its eastern rock spur, which was accepted.

On 16th morning Rabin, Amitava alongwith Sherpas Pasang and Mingma started for attempt to Guicha with three days' ration and pulsions. I accompanied them with Himadri, Samir and Karma to ferry loads up to Guicha Camp 2 (16,230 ft) which was established just below the Guicha La at 12 noon. We returned to Camp 1 on the very day afternoon.

17 October: The weather raised hope for a good day for the members at Guicha. But suddenly Guicha became engulfed with cloud at 10 a.m. and we got worried. Ashoke, Dawa and myself with necessary tent ind food started at 1 p.m. to reach Camp 2 at 3.30 p.m. and found thru ill safe. Rabin detailed his experience and observation to me.

He started at 6.30 a.m. with Pasang, Mingma and Amitava. They first negotiated the eastern ridge of Guicha right from their campsite. After climbing about 200 ft of rock wall they had to negotiate another rock wall with the help of rope. After about 40 minutes' climb they stepped on an ice-slope, from there they noticed a snow-covered peak of about 20,000 ft high to the south of Guicha. Guicha loomed larger in NW and Pandim majestic in SE. To the south the treacherous Onglakthang glacier and to the north Talung glacier, Zemu Gap and Simvo came into view. The ridge ahead was razor-shaped and full of loose rocks. It was, therefore, impossible to negotiate the same. They moved towards west and after an hour's climb, they stepped on a corniced place where NE ridge of the South peak had an abrupt drop near south of Guicha. So, they turned north and finally reached the foot of a modest rock wall. Again climbing about 500 ft they gained an ice-slope which traversed westerly. The ice-condition was poor with crevasses en route. After climbing a little, to the north they found an overhang at an altitude of 18,000 ft. Clouds enveloped the whole area; snow started pouring down when they noticed a marking flag inside a crack. Due to complete white-out they could not see anything more. They waited for the clear sky. But the situation was bleak and desperate. So they started climbing down by the same route and at 1.40 p.m. reached the camp.

They assumed that the NE ridge of the south peak might connect Guicha. But as observed, the NE ridge of the South peak terminates in that overhang, after that overhang the ridge had a sudden drop to the glacier, south of Guicha. The peculiar factor to be considered here is that there is almost no feasible campsite between Guicha camp and the overhang point. At best, only one two-man tent can be pitched with difficulty under the overhang. So any party who will plan to climb Guicha will have to negotiate that overhang of about 30 ft height to reach near the summit of the South peak through the NE ridge covering a height of 1000 ft then to get down towards north of the South peak and to further climb up towards east, both the faces being stretched about 1000 ft. Thus they may get on the south ridge of Guicha which leads to the summit.

The members of Camp 1 reached us at 11 a.m. through foggy weather. We dismantled our camp and returned to Camp 1 at 2 p.m. All members had occupied the Camp 1 on the previous day.

On 20 October, Amitava and myself with Pasang, Mingma moved to Pandim Camp 2 site, on the second gully on Pandim's north ridge at an altitude of 17,000 ft. We pitched two tents one at the side of the rock wall and another over a prepared platform carved out from debris. Four others ferried loads to our new campsite and returned. We experienced snowfall at night.

Next day the weather cleared at 7 a.m. but the sun was yet to touch the gully. Amitava, Passang, Mingma and myself set out with fixed ropes and other gear for the saddle. After an hour's steep ascent through hard snow we reached in front of the snow tongue. A horizontal traverse towards right brought us at the foot of the tongue. After observation we found it dangerous to climb the tongue through its snow-slope. So we tried the left rock outcrop of the tongue and 120 ft of difficult rock climbing left us at the middle of the tongue. We had to cut 100 ft of diagonal step on hard snow and reached the top of the tongue. From that point the icy NW summit ridge looked very close and tempting. The place where we stood was almost 2 ft wide having a vertical drop of about 300 ft to the avalanche gully, the first gully. The saddle seen distinctly from there was flanked by two rock pinnacles with a small ice cone in the middle. It was 10.30 a.m. The weather deteriorated very fast. We had to call it a day and started descending. We fixed up 100 ft of rope on snow wall and an extra 240 ft of nylon rope for safe descending. We returned to Camp 2 at 2 p.m.

Next day at 9.30 a.m. we reached our last day's point and found the sharp rock rib ahead leading to the saddle. The rib hardly 2 ft wide with sharp drop on either side posed the real problem. The weather-decomposed rock with soft snow encrusting it gave way as soon as we touched the rock. As a last bid to gain the saddle we decided to negotiate the rib. I was held by two belays from Pasang and Mingma to fix rope, 100 ft of rope was fixed in an hour's effort and the weather packed up by the time. Mingma succeeded in fixing another 100 ft and we returned to camp at 2.30 p.m. The progress during the last two days was not satisfactory and we were losing the battle against time.

On 23rd we fixed another 200 ft of rope. The weather followed its precedents and we started descending. To make another camping site near beginning of our fixed rope position, a spot was selected at the middle of the gully protected by some rock outcrop, but it was not fully safe from powder avalanche from the top of the gully and so was left under observation.

On 24th, with three hundred feet of fixed rope we set out for the saddle with a hope of gaining that on the same day. The going over the rib was too difficult because of heavy wind experienced for the first time over the rib. We fixed up 200 ft of rope by 1 p.m. when only 150 ft remained to reach the saddle. The weather was not so dull like the previous days except occasional clouds fleeing fast with the western wind. The rock rib was almost an 8o° staircase composed of stairs of loose decomposed-rock leading to the left rock pinnacle of the saddle, the gateway to Pandim. To our left at the head of our 'camping gully a mammoth neolithic head was carved neatly on the rock projection by the northwestern wind. We could see Zemu Gap clearly and towards west Kabru Dome, Guicha and Kangchenjunga were looking captivating. Talung peeping over the Guicha dome was seen for the first time. Pandim was obstructed by the right pinnacle of the saddle which was the only visible object to be encountered to step on to the silver-corridor of the Pandim north ridge. We were hopeful to step inside the forbidden sanctuary but the hope shattered instantly as Pandim struck back. The whole area become engulfed with cloud coming from Pandim sanctuary. Anchored with the fixed rope we waited there for the mercy of weather God. After some time myself, Karma and Mingma with double belay fixed up another 100 ft leaving only 50 ft of horizontal traverse to reach the saddle. The visibility became nil. The fixed rope had already been consumed. Moreover, the traversing wall seemed to be a band of hard marble conglomerate stone with almost no hold. The height reached was about 19,500 ft. The seven hours hard toil remained unfruitful. Considering the situation and the time I decided to return. The descending was quick but just at the end of the fixed rope Amitava slipped on the ice-slope of gully but escaped unhurt. With great caution Ranjan and myself stepped on the horizontal traverse point and found that all the steps and trail marks were washed out and the place was completely filled with knee-deep soft snow. We broke the trail again, but I could hardly recognize the spot except the rock outcrop. The platform, the mark of trail, everything had vanished, leaving heaps of knee-deep snow. The situation was certainly alarming and the evidence of powder avalanche was found prominent everywhere. The worried faces of our members received us at Camp 2 at 5 p.m. I made assessment of the situation. We had already consumed all the fixed rope which seemed to be required over the summit ridge because of expected hard ice and high wind. Even if we gain the saddle and pitch camp over there it was difficult to make the summit in a day and come back due to the existing condition of weather. So another intermediate camp on the summit ridge would cost us a day which in no case could be spared as we were supposed to reach base camp by 26th evening. So I had to take the logically wise but sad decision to withdraw from the mountain.

This less explored region bears fine prospects for future mountaineering and trekking. The region is enriched with great resources of flora and fauna. The tree line extended over 13,000 ft with Rhododendron dominating solely on higher region. In between 5000 ft and 10,000 ft one can observe several varieties of orchids and primulas apart from Rhododendron (companulatum and arboreum). We have observed dwarf rhododendron (lepidotum) even at 14,000 ft on the Thansing slope. Colourful Sikkimese pheasants, wild doves, whistling thrushes and finches are real gems of wild forest.

 

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