EXPEDITION NOTES

The notes have came to hand these really should have been included in Vols. XXIX and XXX.

Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
KISHTWAR
1. Pt. 5,279 m. (Brammah’s Wife)
Pt. 5,630 m. (Crooked Finger)
Pt. 6,200 m.
Pt. 5,255 m.		 British
(full article in H.j., Vol. XXX)		 Charles Clarke Attempted
Climbed 22.9.69
Attempted
Climbed 18.10.69
2. Pt. 5,340 m.
Pt. 5,605 m.		 British Ladies Mrs. Niki Clough Climbed 28.5.70
Climbed 29.5.70
KARAKORAM
1. Malubiting (7,453 m.) The Munich Karakoram Expdn. Peter Von Gizyck Attempted
HINDU KUSH
1. Owir Valley
Owir Zom (c. 5,125 m.)		 Italian V. Lazzarino Climbed 8.8.70
2. Item 15 on p. 337 (Vol. XXX) add:-
Pt. 4,800 m.
Pt. 4,760 m.		 Tiroler H.K. Expdn., 1970 Kurt Pittracher Climbed
Climbed
3. Bandaka Sakhi (6,340 m.) British B.R. Why brow Attempted
4. Koh-e-Barf (5,797 m.)
Pt. 5,680 m.
Pt. 4,703 m.
Pt. 5,590 m.
Pt. 5,055 m.
Pt. 4,870 m.
Pt. 5,207m.
Pt. 5,250 m.
Pt. 5,550 m.
Pt. 5,460 m.
Pt. 5,107 m.
Shak-e-Kabud (6,435 m.)
Koh-e-Marchech (6,435		 Imperial College (London) Expdn. 2nd ascent 19.8.79 by the east face
3rd ascent 29.8.70 by a snow couloir east of the summit
2nd ascent 22.8.70
1st ascent 19.8.70
1st ascent 20.8.70
1st ascent 25.8.70
1st ascent 25.8.70
1st ascent 26.8.70
1st ascent 27.8.70
1st ascent 8.9.70
1st ascent 13.9.70
1st ascent 14.9.70
4th ascent 13.9.70 by a new route-SE. buttress
3rd ascent 12/14.9.70 by a new route-the south ridge
5. Pt. 5,406 m. (according to the new Afghan Survey 5,160 m. by Frey. The peak lies just east of Frey’s Pt. 5,107 m.) Sierra Club Expdn. S. Aron
T. Myres		 Climbed by the west ridge, descending by a series of chutes on the south face
NEPAL
1. Mardi Himal (Annapurna Grp.) (18,330 ft.)
Yala Peak (Langtrang Himal)		 ‘tourist climbing’ organized by Sporthaus Schuster W. Utzmeier
A. Ernst		 Climbed by 17 members
Climbed by 19 members
2. Nilgiri East (more information on correct height and location awaited) Spanish - 1st ascent in Nov. 1970
KULU
1. Mukar Beh (19,910 ft.) Italian C.Rabbi 3rd ascent 14.10.70
2. Hanuman Tibba
(19,450 ft.)		 Climbed 20.10.70 by a new route via the north ridge
EXPEDITION 1971
KASHMIR — LADAKH
1. Nun (23,410) ft - 7,135 m.) N.D.A. Khada kvasla Expdn. Ft. Lt. K. P. Venu gopal Climbed 20.7.71
Kun (23,250ft. - 7,087 m.) Climbed 25, 26 and 27.6.71
2. Tata kuti (15, 500 ft.- 4,724 m.) (Poonch District) Agriculture Dept. Expdn. K. S. Singh Climbed 24.6.71 Summit team of eight was accompanied by two dogs
3. Kolahoi (17,799 ft- 5.425 m.) Meijo Univ. A.C. M. Oki Climbed 4.8.71
Pt. 4,850 m. Pt. 4,350 m. (near Haramukh) Climbed 5.8.71 Climbed
KULU-LAHUL-CHAMBA-SPITI
1. Leo Pargial (22,280 ft- 6,791 m.) St. Stephen's College Expdn. M. H. Johnson Attempted
2. Leo Pargial (22,280 ft- 6,791 m.) Indo-Tibet Border Police K. C. Mehra Climbed 24.9.71
3. Indrasan (20,410 ft- 6,221 m.) British Tony Johnson 2ndasceht 9.6.71 repeated 13.6.71
4. Papsura (21,165 ft- 6,451 m.) Air Force Trekking and Mountaineering Assoc. Ft. Lt. V. P. Singh 2nd ascent 4.6.71
5. Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft- 6,446 m.) Corps of Elect, and Mech. Engineers Maj. B. S. Ramdas 4th ascent 13.9.71
6. Ladakhi Peak (17,525 ft. 5,342 m.) I.I,T.Kharagpur A. Naresh Climbed 2.6.71
7. Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.- 6,001 m.) Nanbu A.C. Y. Matsuda Climbed: 28.5.71
8. Deo Tibba (19,687 ft.- 6,001 m.) Ladies'. Expn. of Delhi Mountaineering Assoc. Madhuri Mahajan Climbed 2.10.71
9. Gushu Pishu (18,610 ft- 5,652 m.) I.T.B.P. A. K. Janardhan 1st ascent 14.9.71
10. Menthosa (21,140 ft- 6.444 m.) Keio Univ. M. Takemura Attempted
11. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft- 5,928 m.) Mushurakusei- kai (Tokyo) T. Shiobara Climbed by north ridge on 15.9.71. By normal route on 30.9.71
GARHWAL
1. Bandarpunch (20,720 ft.-6,315 m.) Army Mountaineering Assoc. Gurdial Singh Climbed 12.6.71
2. Gangotri III (21,578 ft-6,577 m.) I.T.B.P. N. C. Tripathi Climbed 26.6.71
3. Suvarna (20,020 ft.) 'KalindiPeak(?_c. 19,900 ft.) north of Kalindi Khal Giri Brahman, Poona K. G. Sambhus Climbed3.6.71 Climbed 3.6.71
4. Rajramba (21,446 ft- 6.537 m.) I.T.B.P. J. C. Ojha 1st ascent 11.6.71
5. Kagbhusund (19,210 ft.-5,855 m.) I.T.B.P. N. Singh 1st ascent 17.5.71
6. Kamet (25,447 ft- 7,756 m.) Gujerat Expdn. Attempted
7. Nanda Devi (25,645 ft.-7,817 m.) Youth Welfare Centre, Palan- pur B. L. Kashyap Non-starter, deserted by porters at Dharansi
8. Kedarnath Dome (22,410 ft.-6,830 m.) I.T.B.P. - Climbed 15.9.71
9. Trisul (23,360 ft - 7,120 m.) Delhi Mountaineering Assoc. O. P. Sharma Climbed 6.6.71
10. Jogin II (20,805 ft- 6,345 m.) Dutagar, Calcutta Amulya Sen 1st ascent 11.10.71
11. Srikanta (20,120 ft- 6,133 m.) Nehru Inst, of Mountaineering - 1st ascent reported in Oct. 1971
BHUTAN
1. Kangri I (22,700 ft- 6,919 m.) Kangri II (19,350 ft.- 5,898 m.) Indo-Bhutanese Expdn. Maj. C. S. Nugyal 1st ascents reported
Pre- monsoon NEPAL
1. Everest (29,028 ft.- 8,848 m.) International Himalayan Expdn. N. G. Dyhrenfurth Col. J. O. M. Roberts West ridge abandoned. Reached a height of 27,500 ft. on SW. face
2. Makalu (27,824 ft-8,481 m.) French R. Paragot Climbed 23.5.71 by the west ridge
3. Dhaulagiri II (25,429 ft.-7,751 m.) Austrian Himalayan Society F. Huber 1st ascent 18.5.71
4. Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.- 7,660 m.) Groupe de Haute Montagne Japan Dhaulagiri IV Expdn., 1971 M. Hattori Attempted
5. Dhaulagiri V (24,992 ft.-7,618 m.) Kenryo A.C. G. Yasaki Attempted by south ridge
6. Gangapurna (24,457 ft.-7,454 m.) Hachioji Himalayan Expdn. K. Miyoshi Attempted- expdition robbed of their cash , by local inhabitants
7. Annapurna II (26,041 ft.-7,937 m.) Shinshu Univ. A.C. Dr.M. Nishigohri Attempted
8. Baudda (21,890 ft.- 6,672 m.) Aichi Univ. of Education Y. Nakai 2nd ascent 12.4.71 repeated 13.4.71
9. Api (23,399 ft-7,132 m.) Aatsumoto A.C. K. Fukuzawa Attempted
10. Pumori (23,442 ft - 7,145 m.) Fujimiya A.C. K. Mochizuki Attempted
11. Lhotse Shar (27,504 ft-8,383 m.) Korean Alpine Federation P. Shulam Attempted
12. Churen Himal (24,184 ft.-7,371 m.] Tokyo Univ. Dr. M. Takashi Attempted West and East peaks
13. Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 ft.-7,246 m.; Zao A.C. T. Ohishi Attempted
14. Annapurna South (23,683 ft.-7,219 m. Annapurna Club 1971 Expdn. (Jap.) K. Yamada Attempted south face. . Liason Officer went berserk; expdition abandoned
15. Manaslu(26,760 ft- 8,156 m.) Tokyo Metropolitan Mountaineering Fed A. Takahashi 2nd ascent- by new route by west wall
16. Manaslu (26,760 ft- , 8,156 m.) South Korean Kim Ho Sup. Attempted
Post-monsoon
17. Everest (29,028 ft- 8,848 m.) Argentinian Col. H. C. Tolosa Attempted South Col route
18. Makalu II (25,066 ft, 7,640 m.) (Kangchungtse) - Chiba Univ. Dr.M. Numata Attempted by South ridge via Makalu Col.
19. Dhaulagiri V (24,992 ft.-7,618 m.) Kyushu Univ. A.C. T.Shiramizu Attempted by SE. ridge
20. Gangapurna (24,457 ft-7,454 m.) Nagano Mountaineering Assoc. K.Shimizo Climbed15.10.71 from the south through the sanctuary and west ridge
21. Annapurna South (23,683 ft.-7,219 m.) Chiba Univ. of Technology Dr. (Eng.) T. Minegishi Attempted from the north through the sanctuary and east ridge
22. Kanjiroba (22,580 ft-6,882 m.) Shigakukai Osaka A.C. K. Abe Attempted by south face. Climbed an unnamed peak c. 6,500 m. about 12 km. east of the Kanjiroba Main peak on 25.10.71 (1st ascent)
23. Patrasi Himal (21,742 ft-6,627 m.) British E. Hammond Attempted from south Climbed on 27.10.71 unnamed southern feature of Patrasi Himal c. 19,580 ft.
24. Eastern Outlier of Annapurna South(Hiunchuli) (21,133 ft-6,411 m.) Peace Corps Volunteers C. Anderson 1st ascent 10.10.71
25. 'Fluted Peak'(Gangachenpo) Langtang Valley/ Jugal Himal (20,924 ft.-6,378 m.) American-Swiss D.Taylor Attempted
KARAKORAM
1. Chongra Peak (22,408 ft.-6,830 m.) Gampo Tohkoh- kai (Hachioji City) M. Kaitsu 1st ascent 21.8.71
2. Malubiting (24,451 ft-7,452 m.) Karakoram-kai (Kyoto) R. Kotani Attempted
3. Ogre Peak (23,901 ft - 7,285 m.) Rigaku-kai of the Rikkyo Univ. M. Takahashi Reconnoitre
4. K 12 (24,503 ft.-7,468 m.) Ichikawa A.C. T. Arioka Attempted
5. Malubiting (24,451 ft.-7,452 m.) O.A.V. Graz Section H.Schindlbacher 1st ascent 23.8.71
HINDU KUSH
1. Jstor-o-Nal (7,403 m.) Third Yugoslav H.E. I. Valic '2nd ascent by a new route direct to the main peak from the right side of the couloir
2. Tirich Mir (7,706 m.) Italian Expdn. Chitral 1971 R. Varvelli Attempted
3. Upper Tirich Glacier Ghul Lasht Zom East (6,611 m.) Expdn. Wolf- gang Stefan W. Stefan Climbed 13.7.71
until Las lit zom South (c. 6.400 m.) Climbed 15.7.71
Noshaq West (7,250 m.) Climbed 23.7.71
Noshaq Main (7,492 m.) Climbed 23.7.71- first ascent from the Chitral side
Asp-e-Safed (6,450 m. 4th ascent 24.7.71
4. Ghul Lasht Zom South (c. 6,400 m.) Spanish C. P. de Tudela Climbed 15.8.71
5. Noshaq (7,492 m.) Matsusho Gakuen Junior College A.C. H. Koana Attempted
6. Tirich Mir Main (7,706 m.) Ishikawa Prefecture Section of the J.A.C. S. Masue Climbed 10.7.71 by a new route from Dir- gol via and over S. Glacier Peak
7. Saraghrar SW. (7,184 m. or 7,250 m.) Shizuoka Tohan Club R. Akiyama Climbed 29.7.71 by a direttissima on the west wall
8. Udren Zom South (7,050 m.) Shimonoseki A.C. S.Yamashita Climbed 22.7.71
9. Udren Valley Udren Zom (7,131 m. Italian C.A.I., Bieia G. Antoniotti Climbed 21.6.71 and 23.6.71
10. Koh-e-Shakhaur (7,116 m.) Climbed 21.6.71 and 23.6.71
Darban Glacier M 9 (6,028 m.) Climbed 26.6.71
Q 6 (c. 6,000 m.) Climbed 26.6.71
Darban Zom (7,219 m.) Deutsche H. K. Expdn., 1971 E.Keller Climbed 23.7.71
Udren-Darban zom (6,272 m.) (Wala 133) Climbed 4.7.71 1st ascent
Pt. 6,593 m. (Dingo Zom') (East of Shingeik Zom) 3.8.71 (over the east ridge)
11. Wakhan
Urgunt-e-Bala valley
Pt. 6,920 m.(Wala 265)		 Expdn. Excur- sioniste de Gracia, Barcelona J.Paytubi Attempted by a long traverse from below the summits of Koh-e-Tez (W. 268), Koh-e- Shoghct- dok (W. - 267) and Koh-e-Bha- yoz (W. 266)- reached a point 180 m. below the summit
12. Qazi Deh Gumbaz-e-Safed - (c. 6,800 m.) Expdn. Montagne du Monde- Montagne et L.Audoubert Climbed 17.8.71
Noshaq (7,492 m.) Loisirs i Climbed 19.8.71-and 20.8.71.
Also a solo traverse (1st traverse) by Audoubert from
Noshaq to Gumbaa-e- Safed via the Potocki Col.
13. Noshaq (7,492 m.) Tiroler H.K. Expdn. E. Reisigl Climbed
11.7.71 and 16.7.71
Kharposht-e-Yakhi (5,698 m.) Climbed
Rakh-e-Daroz (5,695 m.) Climbed
14. Noshaq (7,492 m.) Gemeinschafts- bergfahrt O.A.V. Salzburg M. Schmuck Climbed 2.8.71
15. Noshaq (7,492 m.) H.K. Expdn. Section Neu Ulm G. Kampfe Climbed 2.8.71
Kharposht-e-Yakhi (5,698 m.) Climbed
16. Wakhan
KoH-e-Khaen (6,020 m.)		 Med. Dept.A.C of Hiroshima Univ. G. Hirai 1st ascent 13.7.71
17. Qala Panja Valley
Koh-e-Kamisktar (6,164 m.) (Wala 390)		 Expdn. C.A.I. Trieste W. Hejak 1st ascent 26.7.71
Pt. 5,896 m. (Wala 389) 1st ascent 30.7.71
Koh-e-Shmar (5,861 m.) (Wala 392) 1st ascent 30.7.71
Koh-e-Umieh (5,759 m.) (Wala-391) 1st ascent 19.7.71
Pt. 5,430 m. (Wala 394) 1st ascent ' 31.7.71
18. Dara Issik Valley
Koh-e-Pamir (6,177 m.)		 Expdn. Oxus '71 C. A. Pinelli 1st ascent 7.8.71
Koh-e-Marco Polo (6.174 m) 1st ascent 10.8.71
Koh-e-Hilal (6,281 m.) 1st ascent 14.8.71
19. Hindu Raj
Buni Zom area
Phargam I (c. 6,000 m.)		 Kolner H.K. Expdn.. 1971 R. Wagner 1st ascent 31.8.71
Phargam II (c. 6,000 m.) 1st ascent 31.8.71
Awi Zom (6,484 m.) 1st ascent 3.9.71
Pt. 6,000 m.; Pt. 5,950 m.; Pt. 5,950 m.; Pt. 5,900 m.
(Four summits lying between Phargam II and Awi Zom)		 All first ascents 31.8.71
Golen Zom (5,810 m) 1st ascent
Sohnyoan Zom (5,625 m.) 2nd ascent: 24.8.71 and 27.8.71
Pt. 5,700 m. 'Kolon Zom' (5,300 m.) Climbed 1st ascent 1.9.71
20. Koh-e-Bandaka S. (Main) (6,843 m.) Mtg. Assoc. of Fukushima Prefecture T. Sasaki Climbed 12.8.71
21. Parshui Valley
Pt. 5,339 m.		 Takashoku Univ. A.C. and O.B. Group H. Tagaka Climbed 8.7.71
Pt. 5,600 m. Climbed 8.7.71; B.C. attacked by bandits- thereafter expdition abandoned
22. Shah-e-Anjuman (6,026 m.) Iwate Medical Univ. A.C. Y. Yasui 2nd ascent 28.7.71 via new route from the north
Pt. 5,644 m. (‘Barwano'?) 1st ascent 22.7.71
23. Pt. 6,220 m.('Buni Zom South') O.B. A.C. of the Oyama High School (Toyama Prefecture) H. Saegi 1st ascent 23.6.71 and 29.6.71
Buni zom in orui (6,337 m.)
Pt.5,974 m.('Ectha Zom')
Khorabohrt Zom (5,850 m.)
Pt. 5,906 m.(Buri Zom') S.E. of the waterfall in Khorabohrt glacier		 Climbed
Climbed 3.7.71
Climbed 4.7.71
Climbed 8.7.71
24. Panorama Peak (5,690 m.)
Pt. 6,220 m. (Buni Zom South')
Buni Zom Main Pk. (6,551 m.)		 The Swallow Kai (Tokyo) M.Nakamura Climbed 23.9.71
3rd ascent 27.9.71
Attempted
25. Thui I (6,662 m.) Yama no Kai of the Waseda Univ. J. Kitaoka Attempted
26. Swat Harambit (c. 6,000 m.) Higashi Kobe High School A.C. A.Yamanouchi Attempted
Himalayan Journal 31
Editor: Soli S. Mehta Published Year: 1971
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
    (Soli S. Mehta)
  2. A. R. HINKS AND THE FIRST EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1921
    (T. S. BLAKENEY)
  3. EVEREST REVISITED THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1971
    (NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTH)
  4. POST-MORTEM OF AN INTERNATIONAL EXPEDITION
    (KEN WILSON AND MIKE PEARSON)
  5. 'QUESTIONABLE CONCLUSIONS IN EVEREST FILM'
    (KEN WILSON)
  6. ACCLIMATIZATION
    (Dr. PETER STEELE)
  7. THE HIMALAYAN ETHIC-TIME FOR A RETHINK ?
    (DENNIS GRAY)
  8. THE JAPANESE MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1969-1970
    (HIROMI OHTSUKA)
  9. CAVING IN THE HIMALAYA
    (A. C. WALTHAM)
  10. THE BRITISH KARST RESEARCH EXPEDITION, 1970
    (JANET M. WALTHAM)
  11. ‘WHERE NO PLANES FLY'
    (JOHN ALLEN)
  12. MANASLU WEST WALL, 1971
    (AKIRA TAKAHASHI)
  13. GANGAPURNA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, 1971
    (KATUHIKO MIYOSHI)
  14. THE JAPANESE MT. API EXPEDITION, 1971
    (KATSUYUKI FUKUZAWA)
  15. DHAULAGIRI IV, 1969
    (LEO GRAF)
  16. ‘AND AFTERWARDS...'
    (KLAUS KUBIENA )
  17. CHUREN HIMAL, 1969
    (PAOLO CONSIGLIO)
  18. THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MAIN PEAK OF CHUREN HIMAL, 1970
    (RYOZO YAMAMOTO)
  19. CHUREN HIMAL, 1971
    (MAKOTO TAKAHASI, KATSUHIKO KANO and KOSEI IDETA)
  20. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK (7,195 M.) SOUTH FACE, 1970
    (MAURICE GICQUEL)
  21. PT 21,133 FT.-THE EASTERN OUTLIER OF ANNAPURNA SOUTH,1 1971
    (CRAIG ANDERSON)
  22. DHAULAGIRI II, 1971
    (FRANZ HUBER)
  23. THE CZECHOSLOVAC EXPEDITION TO ANNAPURNA IV (7,525 m.), 1969
    (VLADIMIR PROCHAZKA)
  24. THE INDIAN JOGIN EXPEDITION, 1970
    (AMULYA SEN)
  25. PUNJAB, 1970
    (CORRADINO RABBI)
  26. SOUTH MALANA GLACIER AND THE MANIKARAN SPIRES, 1971
    (GRAHAM CLARK)
  27. THE ASCENT OF KULU PUMORI, 1970
    (ASHWANI SAITH)
  28. PAPSURA, 1971
    (FLT. LT. V. P. SINGH)
  29. THE KISHTWAR HIMALAYA EXPEDITION, 1971
    (CHARLES CLARKE)
  30. MALUBITING — THE MUNICH KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1970
    (PETER VON GIZYCKI)
  31. THE ASCENT OF K6, 1970
    (EDUARD KOBLMULLER)
  32. FIRST ASCENT OF CHONGRA PEAK (22,390 FT = 6,830 M.)
    (MASAHIKO KAITSU)
  33. THE SECOND CZECHOSLOVAC TATRA EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA — NANGA PARBAT (8,125 M.), 1971
    (MICHAL OROLIN)
  34. ODYSSEY ON NANGA PARBAT
    (REINHOLD MESSNER)
  35. KHINYANG CHHISH CLIMBED
    (ANDRZEJ KUS)
  36. ISTOR-O-NAL
    (DR. IVO VALIC)
  37. SHAH FULADI (5,135 M.), 1971
    (MASAHIKO KAITSU)
  38. EXPLORATION AND ASCENTS IN THE BUNI ZOM GROUP, 1971
    (ROBERT WAGNER and ALBERT WACHTEN)
  39. ALPINE EXPLORATION OF THE WAKHAN 1
    (HENRI AGRESTI)
  40. THE EXPLORATION OF THE HINDU RAJ
    (Dr. A. DIEMBERGER)
  41. SARAGHRAR AND LANGAR GROUP
    (TSUNEO MIYAMORI (JAC))
  42. HIMALAYAN NOMENCLATURE
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. OBITUARY
  45. LETTER TO THE EDITOR
  46. EXPEDITION NOTES
  47. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1971