Himalayan Journal vol.31
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.31

Publication year:
1971

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. A. R. HINKS AND THE FIRST EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1921
    (T. S. BLAKENEY)
  3. EVEREST REVISITED THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1971
    (NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTH)
  4. POST-MORTEM OF AN INTERNATIONAL EXPEDITION
    (KEN WILSON AND MIKE PEARSON)
  5. 'QUESTIONABLE CONCLUSIONS IN EVEREST FILM'
    (KEN WILSON)
  6. ACCLIMATIZATION
    (Dr. PETER STEELE)
  7. THE HIMALAYAN ETHIC-TIME FOR A RETHINK ?
    (DENNIS GRAY)
  8. THE JAPANESE MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1969-1970
    (HIROMI OHTSUKA)
  9. CAVING IN THE HIMALAYA
    (A. C. WALTHAM)
  10. THE BRITISH KARST RESEARCH EXPEDITION, 1970
    (JANET M. WALTHAM)
  11. ‘WHERE NO PLANES FLY'
    (JOHN ALLEN)
  12. MANASLU WEST WALL, 1971
    (AKIRA TAKAHASHI)
  13. GANGAPURNA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, 1971
    (KATUHIKO MIYOSHI)
  14. THE JAPANESE MT. API EXPEDITION, 1971
    (KATSUYUKI FUKUZAWA)
  15. DHAULAGIRI IV, 1969
    (LEO GRAF)
  16. ‘AND AFTERWARDS...'
    (KLAUS KUBIENA)
  17. CHUREN HIMAL, 1969
    (PAOLO CONSIGLIO)
  18. THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MAIN PEAK OF CHUREN HIMAL, 1970
    (RYOZO YAMAMOTO)
  19. CHUREN HIMAL, 1971
    (MAKOTO TAKAHASI, KATSUHIKO KANO and KOSEI IDETA)
  20. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK (7,195 M.) SOUTH FACE, 1970
    (MAURICE GICQUEL)
  21. PT 21,133 FT.-THE EASTERN OUTLIER OF ANNAPURNA SOUTH,1 1971
    (CRAIG ANDERSON)
  22. DHAULAGIRI II, 1971
    (FRANZ HUBER)
  23. THE CZECHOSLOVAC EXPEDITION TO ANNAPURNA IV (7,525 m.), 1969
    (VLADIMIR PROCHAZKA)
  24. THE INDIAN JOGIN EXPEDITION, 1970
    (AMULYA SEN)
  25. PUNJAB, 1970
    (CORRADINO RABBI)
  26. SOUTH MALANA GLACIER AND THE MANIKARAN SPIRES, 1971
    (GRAHAM CLARK)
  27. THE ASCENT OF KULU PUMORI, 1970
    (ASHWANI SAITH)
  28. PAPSURA, 1971
    (FLT. LT. V. P. SINGH)
  29. THE KISHTWAR HIMALAYA EXPEDITION, 1971
    (CHARLES CLARKE)
  30. MALUBITING - THE MUNICH KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1970
    (PETER VON GIZYCKI)
  31. THE ASCENT OF K6, 1970
    (EDUARD KOBLMULLER)
  32. FIRST ASCENT OF CHONGRA PEAK (22,390 FT = 6,830 M.)
    (MASAHIKO KAITSU)
  33. THE SECOND CZECHOSLOVAC TATRA EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA -NANGA PARBAT (8,125 M.), 1971
    (MICHAL OROLIN)
  34. ODYSSEY ON NANGA PARBAT
    (REINHOLD MESSNER)
  35. KHINYANG CHHISH CLIMBED
    (ANDRZEJ KUS)
  36. ISTOR-O-NAL
    (DR. IVO VALIC)
  37. SHAH FULADI (5,135 M.), 1971
    (MASAHIKO KAITSU)
  38. EXPLORATION AND ASCENTS IN THE BUNI ZOM GROUP, 1971
    (ROBERT WAGNER and ALBERT WACHTEN)
  39. ALPINE EXPLORATION OF THE WAKHAN 1
    (HENRI AGRESTI)
  40. THE EXPLORATION OF THE HINDU RAJ
    (Dr. A. DIEMBERGER)
  41. SARAGHRAR AND LANGAR GROUP
    (TSUNEO MIYAMORI (JAC))
  42. HIMALAYAN NOMENCLATURE
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. OBITUARY
  45. LETTER TO THE EDITOR
  46. EXPEDITION NOTES
  47. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1971

ISTOR-O-NAL

DR. IVO VALIC

Third Jugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition, 1971

On 5 June two members (Zvone Kofler and Janko Azman) of the 3rd Jugoslav expedition climbed by a new, direct way the south wall and reached the peak of Istor-o-Nal (7,398 m.)1 in the area of the Upper Tirich glacier. It is the second ascent of the principal peak. The first to reach it was a Spanish expedition in 1969 following the SW ridge. All other expeditions reached only the west peak or remained beneath it, the only exception being an Austrian expedition in 1967, which reached the two north peaks from the west.

The Jugoslav expedition consisted of ten members. They set off in four vehicles on 25 April. They reached Rawalpindi on 9 May. After settling all the formalities with the Pakistani authorities they flew from Rawalpindi to Chitral on 16 May. They continued the journey to Charun by jeeps, then across Zani An or Tirich Pass (appr. 4,000 m.) to the village Shagrom and to the Base Camp on donkeys or horses and with porters. The porters were excellent and caused no problems. The expedition did not hire high altitude porters, except for two couriers. . The Base Camp was put up on 22 May at the altitude of 4,500 m., at a place called Nalagut, on the Upper Tirich glacier; on 24 May the first high altitude camp (5,300 m.), the second (5,800 m.) on 30 May and the third (6,600 m.) on 4 June were established. It was from here that the ascent was pursued across the Col and the northern snow-covered part to the principal peak. They were completely exhausted on their return, one had lost his goggles and was troubled by snow-blindness ; the weather conditions were most unfavourable. Bad weather kept up for two days and hindered the rescue of the two members. After five days all the members happily reached the Base Camp. With the exception of the two above-mentioned days the weather was excellent, only rather windy above 6,000 m. Between the Camps I and II there was partly rock climbing, reaching IV-V degrees, and just above Camp II the expedition fixed 500 m. of rope' At places the slope was 60° and more. The return to Chitral took 5 days. The weather being miserable the expedition had to leave for Rawalpindi by jeeps after the authorities had issued special permission. On return the expedition had to hand to the authorities all the films for control. The expedition was accompanied by the Liaison Officer. On the way home the expedition met with an accident. After crossing the Pakistan-Afghanistan border one of the cars drove off the road, bumped into a tree, took fire and got completely burnt. One of the members of the expedition, one of the victorious two and one of the best Jugoslav climbers, got such bad burns that he died two days later in the Kabul hospital. The other two passengers got some scratches. The expedition returned home on 9 July.

1 The revised height now is 7,403 m.--Ed. Himalayan Journal

Members of the expedition: Janko Azman, Iztok Belehar, Sandi Blazina,Janez Brojan, Franc Ekar, Tomaz Jamnik, Zvone Kofler, Peter Scetinin, Ivo Valic (leader) and Joco Znidarsic.



ISTOR-O-NAL (7,398 M.)  MAIN SUMMIT. YUGOSLAV ROUTE OF BC AND CAMPS 1,2,3  (Photo:  J.  Znidarsic)

ISTOR-O-NAL (7,398 M.) MAIN SUMMIT. YUGOSLAV ROUTE OF BC AND CAMPS 1,2,3 (Photo: J. Znidarsic)