Himalayan Journal vol.31
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.31

Publication year:
1971

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. A. R. HINKS AND THE FIRST EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1921
    (T. S. BLAKENEY)
  3. EVEREST REVISITED THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1971
    (NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTH)
  4. POST-MORTEM OF AN INTERNATIONAL EXPEDITION
    (KEN WILSON AND MIKE PEARSON)
  5. 'QUESTIONABLE CONCLUSIONS IN EVEREST FILM'
    (KEN WILSON)
  6. ACCLIMATIZATION
    (Dr. PETER STEELE)
  7. THE HIMALAYAN ETHIC-TIME FOR A RETHINK ?
    (DENNIS GRAY)
  8. THE JAPANESE MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1969-1970
    (HIROMI OHTSUKA)
  9. CAVING IN THE HIMALAYA
    (A. C. WALTHAM)
  10. THE BRITISH KARST RESEARCH EXPEDITION, 1970
    (JANET M. WALTHAM)
  11. ‘WHERE NO PLANES FLY'
    (JOHN ALLEN)
  12. MANASLU WEST WALL, 1971
    (AKIRA TAKAHASHI)
  13. GANGAPURNA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, 1971
    (KATUHIKO MIYOSHI)
  14. THE JAPANESE MT. API EXPEDITION, 1971
    (KATSUYUKI FUKUZAWA)
  15. DHAULAGIRI IV, 1969
    (LEO GRAF)
  16. ‘AND AFTERWARDS...'
    (KLAUS KUBIENA)
  17. CHUREN HIMAL, 1969
    (PAOLO CONSIGLIO)
  18. THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MAIN PEAK OF CHUREN HIMAL, 1970
    (RYOZO YAMAMOTO)
  19. CHUREN HIMAL, 1971
    (MAKOTO TAKAHASI, KATSUHIKO KANO and KOSEI IDETA)
  20. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK (7,195 M.) SOUTH FACE, 1970
    (MAURICE GICQUEL)
  21. PT 21,133 FT.-THE EASTERN OUTLIER OF ANNAPURNA SOUTH,1 1971
    (CRAIG ANDERSON)
  22. DHAULAGIRI II, 1971
    (FRANZ HUBER)
  23. THE CZECHOSLOVAC EXPEDITION TO ANNAPURNA IV (7,525 m.), 1969
    (VLADIMIR PROCHAZKA)
  24. THE INDIAN JOGIN EXPEDITION, 1970
    (AMULYA SEN)
  25. PUNJAB, 1970
    (CORRADINO RABBI)
  26. SOUTH MALANA GLACIER AND THE MANIKARAN SPIRES, 1971
    (GRAHAM CLARK)
  27. THE ASCENT OF KULU PUMORI, 1970
    (ASHWANI SAITH)
  28. PAPSURA, 1971
    (FLT. LT. V. P. SINGH)
  29. THE KISHTWAR HIMALAYA EXPEDITION, 1971
    (CHARLES CLARKE)
  30. MALUBITING - THE MUNICH KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1970
    (PETER VON GIZYCKI)
  31. THE ASCENT OF K6, 1970
    (EDUARD KOBLMULLER)
  32. FIRST ASCENT OF CHONGRA PEAK (22,390 FT = 6,830 M.)
    (MASAHIKO KAITSU)
  33. THE SECOND CZECHOSLOVAC TATRA EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYA -NANGA PARBAT (8,125 M.), 1971
    (MICHAL OROLIN)
  34. ODYSSEY ON NANGA PARBAT
    (REINHOLD MESSNER)
  35. KHINYANG CHHISH CLIMBED
    (ANDRZEJ KUS)
  36. ISTOR-O-NAL
    (DR. IVO VALIC)
  37. SHAH FULADI (5,135 M.), 1971
    (MASAHIKO KAITSU)
  38. EXPLORATION AND ASCENTS IN THE BUNI ZOM GROUP, 1971
    (ROBERT WAGNER and ALBERT WACHTEN)
  39. ALPINE EXPLORATION OF THE WAKHAN 1
    (HENRI AGRESTI)
  40. THE EXPLORATION OF THE HINDU RAJ
    (Dr. A. DIEMBERGER)
  41. SARAGHRAR AND LANGAR GROUP
    (TSUNEO MIYAMORI (JAC))
  42. HIMALAYAN NOMENCLATURE
  43. BOOK REVIEWS
  44. OBITUARY
  45. LETTER TO THE EDITOR
  46. EXPEDITION NOTES
  47. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1971

SARAGHRAR AND LANGAR GROUP

TSUNEO MIYAMORI (JAC)

Some Problems of Topography and Identification

(Translated by Ichiro Yoshizawa)

1. Saraghrar is the fourth highest mountain in the Hindu Kush, after Tirich Mir (7,403 m.) most of whose geography has been recently explained and well known.

In spite of three climbing expeditions (Japanese) to the Saraghrar group since the first ascent of its main peak by the Italians led by Fosco Maraini in 1959, this massif has not been clearly understood.

This article is therefore an attempt at elucidation and has been undertaken with the notes and photographs offered by both Japanese and other climbers who have visited the area.

The altitude of the peaks, except that of the main peak of Saraghrar and the SE. peak of Langar, are all estimates until official heights are published.

2. Mr. Ichiro Yoshizawa (Vice-President, JAC), the Chairman of the Japan Hindu Kush Conference, in the foreword for ‘Mountain Travelling in the Rosh Gol Glacier' by Kenichiro Yamamoto wrote: 'although we have that splendid result of the survey of the Hindu Kush ranges by Dr. G. Gruber in 1965 and others I think we must study further the individual details especially of the Saraghrar peaks. Accordingly, the altitudes of each peak mentioned here are to be taken as provisional to the last... Jerzy Wala, the famous Polish mountaineer and cartographer has made a series of maps of the High Hindu Kush which has been relied upon as the best by European climbers. But when we studied it in detail some parts such as the SW face of Saraghrar, we found the detail insufficient though it was unavoidable ...' [the excellent Wala map is on really too small scale for great detail to be included.-Ed.]

2.1 Where does the highest snow-field flow'?

The Histotsubashi University Expedition 1967 report says as follows: ‘The summit ridge of the south peak was a long one stretching from west to east, and we saw that a parallel ridge was running in front of us lying in between a broad (width about 1 km.) snow-field. The right end of it was falling to Niroghi glacier and the other to Rosh Gol. But we must take special note of the fact that the debris caused by avalanches of the Niroghi glacier is incomparably larger than that of the Rosh Gol side.'

2.2 The problem of height: See Table I. The numerals of the last column are all calculated by me but not official.

3. There appears some misconceptions and questionable peaks marked on some maps. The following series of photographs and sketches taken from different angles have been compared with existing maps and some tentative conclusions drawn. The peaks marked 1-16 refer to the Saraghrar and Langar massif with reference to Table I and the sketch map only.

3.1 When seen from north-west (west peak of Niigata Zom- Wala 235), the highest snow-field is lower than P6, and it falls into the Niroghi glacier.

3.2 From the same point, P2 (the central peak) lies behind P8, it is as conspicuous as PI (Saraghrar main peak).

3.3 See sketch plate A-Saraghrar, seen from Langar SE. P4 lies behind a ridge running north-westwards from P2 [the direction is more west than north-west.-Ed.].

3.4 See sketch plate B-Saraghrar seen from the east ridge of Langar Zom Main (c- 7,070 m.)-P4 is now distinctly seen. A new peak (P12) (c. 6,850 m.) appears in the Langar group and PI3 (Wala 191) stands at the extreme right.

3.5 See sketch plate C-Saraghrar and Langar Zom, seen from Shayoz (6,855 m.-Wala 266). The height of P8 may be c. 6,900 m. Peak III (i.e. Saraghrar III; ref. H.J., Vol. XXIX, 1969) of Dr. A. Diemberger may be a shoulder-like rock mass on a ridge between P2 and P4. [The height of P8 looks less than 6,900 m. and should be more in line with P15 (Wala 193) which has been estimated at c. 6,700 m- Could Dr. Diemberger's Saraghrars II and III coincide with PX, P2 or P4?-Ed.].

3.6 See sketch plate D-P2 and P4 seen from the main peak PL P4 is lower than P2 which in turn is lower than PL [PX really looks too insignificant to be called a summit-perhaps only a hump-Ed.].

3.7 See sketch plate E-Saraghrar west face seen from Udren An. I think a rock dome under P4 may be peak III (i.e. Saraghrar III; ref. H.J., Vol. XXIX, 1969) of Dr. Diemberger. [The Saraghrars II and III were really named by the Italians and it is a moot-point as to what summits they referred-they seem more likely to correspond to P2 and P4 of T. Miya- mori.-Ed.]. The SW. ridge is derived from the p peak of the P5 (twin summits). The snow-field between P4 and P5 does not show its highest line.

3.8 See sketch plate F-Saraghrar and Langar Zom west face as seen from Darban Zom (7,219 m.-Wala 116). P2 can be clearly seen behind P4. The line of the snow-field, in this case, may be the highest.

3.9 See sketch plate G-Saraghrar south face, seen from Panorama peak, west of Buni Zom North.

Two sets of identifications: (a) is that of Dr. Gruber and (b) is T. Miyamori's.

3.10 Sketch plates H-J follow. They have enabled me to redraw the Saraghrar and Langar summit areas afresh. This should not be taken as the last word on the subject but should serve to excite the curiosity of climbers visiting that area to fill in the few blanks and add to the knowledge already gained.

Lastly, I express my thanks to Mr. Ichiro Yoshizawa and Mr. Eizo Tanaka (both of JAC) and the HK Conference for their kind suggestions and help.
Heights in metres
Peak Mountains J. Wala G. Gruber A. Linsbauer F. Maraini Japaese Expdns. Suggested
1. Saraghrar Main (Wala 195) 7,349 7,307 7,349 7,349 7,350 7,338 7,349
x Peak X - - - - - c. 7,330
2. Saraghrar Central - 7,338 - - - c. 7.330
3. Saraghrar South (Wala 196) 7,307 ? 7,350 7,304 7,356 c. 7,307
4. Saragnrar N W. - - - - - c. 7,300
5. Saraghrar SW. ., - - - - 7,184 c. 7,260
- - - - 7,134 c. 7.250
6. Saraghrar SE. (Wala 197) 7,208 7,220 or 7,184 7,307 - 7,307 c. 7,208
7. Saraghrar W. - - - - - c. 7,000
8. Saraghrar N. (Wala 194 ) 7,040 7,040 7,040 7,040 7,040 c. 6,900 or c. 7,040
9. Saraghrar Brink (Niroghi Zom) (Wala 198) - - 7,220 or 7,209 - - c. 6,600
10. Langar Main (Wala 190) 7,061 7,060 7,070 - 7,060 c. 7.070
11. Langar SE, (Wala 192) 6,950 7,061 7,061 7,061 7,661 7,061
12. Langar central - - 6,850(?) - - c. 6,850
13. Langar S. (Wala 191) 6,850 6,850 7,050 - - c. 6,850
14. Langar N. (Wala 189) 6,750 - 7,050 - 6,750 6,750
15. Langar SSE. (Wala 193) - - - c.6,700 c. 6,700
16. Langar W. .. c. 6,600
[According to the sketch map, P11 should more appropriately be designated as Langar E. and P 15 as Langar SE.-Ed.]

Seem more likely to correspond to P2 and P4 of T. Miyamori.-Ed.]. The SW. ridge is derived from the peak of the P5 (twin summits). The snow-field between P4 and P5 does not show its highest line.
  1. See sketch plate F-Saraghrar and Langar Zom west face as seen from Darban Zom (7,219 m.-Wala 116). P2 can be clearly seen behind P4. The line of the snow-field, in this case, may be the highest.
  2. See sketch plate G-Saraghrar south face, seen from Panorama peak, west of Buni Zom North.
Two sets of identifications: (a) is that of Dr. Gruber and (b) is T. Miyamori's.
  1. Sketch plates H-J follow. They have enabled me to redraw the Saraghrar and Langar summit areas afresh. This should not be taken as the last word on the subject but should serve to excite the curiosity of climbers visiting that area to fill in the few blanks and add to the knowledge already gained.
Lastly, I express my thanks to Mr. Ichiro Yoshizawa and Mr. Eizo Tanaka (both of J AC) and the HK Conference for their kind suggestions and help.



(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate A-Saraghrar, seen from Langar SE.

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate A-Saraghrar, seen from Langar SE.



(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate B-Saraghrar, seen from east ridge of Langar Zom main

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate B-Saraghrar, seen from east ridge of Langar Zom main



(Drawing by T. Miyamori)  Sketch Plate C-Saraghrar,  and Lanrar Zom, seen from the Shayoz (w-266)

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate C-Saraghrar, and Lanrar Zom, seen from the Shayoz (w-266)



(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate D- Saraghrar central (P2) and NW. (P4) , seen from The main peak (P1)

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate D- Saraghrar central (P2) and NW. (P4) , seen from The main peak (P1)



(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate E- Saraghrar West face, seen from The Udren An

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate E- Saraghrar West face, seen from The Udren An



(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate F- Saraghrar and Langar Zom west face, seen from The Darban Zom (w-116)

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate F- Saraghrar and Langar Zom west face, seen from The Darban Zom (w-116)



Sketch Plate G- Saraghrar South face,seen from Panorama Peak, West of Buni zom North

Sketch Plate G- Saraghrar South face,seen from Panorama Peak, West of Buni zom North



As Identified by T. Miyamori

As Identified by T. Miyamori



(Drawing  by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate H—Saraghrar South Peak. Seen from the main summit

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate H—Saraghrar South Peak. Seen from the main summit



(Drawing  by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate I—Langar Zom east face. Seen from Langar SE. Peak

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate I—Langar Zom east face. Seen from Langar SE. Peak



(Drawing  by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate J—Langar Zom South face. Seen from Saraghrar main Peak

(Drawing by T. Miyamori) Sketch Plate J—Langar Zom South face. Seen from Saraghrar main Peak