A TREKKING' PARTY IN THE WESTERN KARAKORAM

DAVE WILKINSON

In Pakistan, the Government defines trekking as 'travelling to a maximum height of 5999 m . . . . ' Difficult climbing upto this height still counts as trekking. Above this height, permission, peak fee and liasion officer are required. None of these are needed for trekking in 'open areas—which include Barpu glacier region.

 

LUNGS BURSTING and legs aching, I trudged on up the seemingly endless slope of hard snow, moving in shallow zig-zags to lessen the effort. I was sweating slightly in spite of the deep frost of the night. Behind me, the other four followed with their rhythmic panting breaths and cramponed crunchings, sometimes in step with mine or each others, then separating in a bigame mixing of different tempi, lower down the slope, where the fresh snow had lain deep, we had been jockeying for position, no one wanting to do the trail-breaking job lor long, but on this harder surface, I was now content to lead on into the approaching dawn.

It could have been an Alpine ascent, but for the shortness of breath and hint of light-headedness which told my semi-conscious mind that this was 5200 m in the Karakoram, and nearing the top of our first mountain of the trip. Rounding a brow on the slope, we were hit by the sun, and a few minutes later stood on top. We had climbed Girgindil peak by its north face, just right of a prominent curving ice-cliff, but Ihls north face was no Eigerwand, merely a snow-slope of at most 45°, .iikI nowhere needing a rope.

The view from the top was superb, but quite short on 3 sides, hemmed in by more impressive and higher peaks nearby. On the fourth side, we Could see back to the green meadows of base camp at Girgindil, where Mike had remained, confined to barracks by a stomach bug picked up ,il lower altitudes. Beyond stretched the rubble covered curves of the Hirpu glacier, thankfully avoided on most of our 3 day walk-in from I lopper by a system of well-wooded ablation valleys on the glacier's northern edge. A carefree descent led down the NW ridge, the route taken by most (if not all) previous parties on this popular 'trekkers peak', and back to base camp for lunch.

After this scenic snowy walk, and a days rest, we felt ready for something more challenging. To the north of Girgindil peak rose the impressive unclimbed peaks of the Chukuntans group, rising to over 6300 m. The highest of these looked quite formidable. More amenable was an attractive pyramid shaped peak just left of Girgindil peak when viewed from our base camp. We estimated its height as 5750 m. This had a number of possible options for a route, none looking desperate but none easy.

Mike had by now largely recovered, and was even re-weaned onto solid food, so Stuart kindly offered to do Girgindil peak again for his sake. This they did by another route further left on the north flank, and a descent by the NE ridge.

Meanwhile, the other four set about the 'Girgindil Pyramid'. Just to its north was a small hanging glacier between it and the main Chukuntans peaks. A camp on the flat middle part of this glacier would give access to the north face, a fluted snow/ice face, or to the mixed west ridge running down towards base camp. Access to this glacier was made by a precarious route over loose schist slabs below the west ridge, then left onto the glacier above its steep snout. We finally reached a flat area in the middle of the glacier which seemed safe enough from falling matter for a camp.

After the gruelling approach, Ralph opted out of the climb. This left John, Ged and myself. We chose the ridge rather than the face, for it looked less sustained and so more suitable for a party of three. We decided that we could get up and down in a day, so elected to travel light, without bivouac equipment.

Another fine night and a 3 o'clock start found us traversing diagonally rightward across moderately steep snow, well frozen, and leading onto the ridge which we gained before dawn. Moving together, we gained height rapidly on the easy snowy ridge. As the light gathered, we could see the steeper part of the ridge ahead, which was armed with a crazily leaning pinnacle of rock, which would have to be turned, if yesterday's rock was anything to go by, we did not relish the prospect of any technical climbing on such loose material. Now taking belays, John led up a couloir to the right of the crest, and we were in full daylight contemplating a traverse, to turn the crazy pinnacle, on a face composed (or decomposed) of rotten schist. This type of metamorphic rock was clearly named by a geologist with a sense of humour. The joke did not seem too funny at this moment. The Matterhom too is made of schist, and notoriously loose, but of nastily superior quality to what we now had to handle. There was one compensation : the rock had been well soaked by the previous day's thaw, and well frozen by the night's frost. We were able to climb it with crampon points biting into the frozen rubble.

Past this, more reasonable mixed ground led back to the ridge crest, which continued over some remarkably narrow and exposed snow-aretes to a final section of unconsolidated moist deep powder on the north side of the crest. Reminded me of the Peruvian Andes.

On the summit, we lounged back in the sun, enjoying stunning views of the Chukuntans peaks, Spantik, Malubiting and all. We had no bivi gear, but a gas stove provided welcome drinks to stave off the dreaded altitude dehydration.

On the descent, the upper part proved harrowing after the midday sun had softened the snow, but the wall of crumbling schist was avoided by following the crest to the crazy pinnacle, then a diagonal abseil, for which our 50 m ropes just sufficed. John's couloir was frighteningly wet, loose and unprotected, but the easier ridge below could be romped at great speed, so we regained the tents and Ralph's welcoming brew well before dark. It snowed in the night, and the next day dawned thick and grey. We opted to descend the glacier by turning the snout on the other side from our way up. This proved scarcely easier.

The whole of the trip so far had shown a changeable weather pattern, with 2 or 3 days of fine weather alternating with a couple of bad days. This was ideal for the sort of mountains we were doing; we had got in step with the weather, climbing during the good weather and resting in the bad. For our next objective, we had noticed a pleasant looking mountain of just over 6100 m, the highest of the Yengutz group, just north of Spantik. This would involve a large approach, starting with a long day's walk up the main Barpu glacier beyond Girgindil. This was done during the continuing bad weather, cloudy with intermittent light rain. From base camp, the way was on the glacier for a mile, hideous going on rubble covered mounds of ice. This turned a rock spur, past which we quitted the glacier, and traversed the lower slopes of Girgindil peak on steep grass. Finally, there was a delightful ablation valley, verdant grass of a lime-rich soil and an amazing spectral display of wild flowers. At first I feared to tread, but when they came thicker and more abundant, I just marched through them, in places thick carpets of yeljow and blue. This led to-a camp site opposite where Spantik's golden pillar rose into the mist.

Next day dawned with fresh snow on our tents, and still falling, a grim scene showing all signs of being settled in. Defeatist talk was in the air, and a move to return. I argued that it might change, and only one thing was certain: if we did go back to base, we would certainly not do the climb. Ged, Ralph and Mick were unconvinced, and abandoned the wait.

Success in big mountains can depend on a number of factors. Good luck, choice of objective, organisation, and the obvious personal attributes of climbing ability, fitness and adaption to altitude. Less obvious is the virtue of patience, the ability to live contentedly in the mountains for periods of inactivity, and then be able to switch to an active mode again when the time is right.

John, Stewart and I sat tight and waited. That evening we were rewarded as the clouds broke up and the peaks emerged gold and red into the setting sun. Pessimism was swept aside as food and gear were sorted and sacks packed in a mood of gathering expectancy. The night was clear and frosty and the morning fine, but we were in no rush.

After the waiting, climbing the mountain now seemed something of a formality. We made a 9 o'clock start, shouldered big sacks and trudged iipto the Yengutz col. Time and energy were still abundant, so we Continued up the broad ridge towards our mountain to a high camp just before the ridge steepened and merged with the face on its right. John was suffering a bit from the altitude, so next morning, Stewart and I continued without him.

The continuation of the ridge formed the left part of the SW face, which was easier further right. The rock band low on this face was turned by a long traverse right through soft, thigh-deep avalanche debris, followed by climbing diagonally rightwards on 50° snow to turn the band by a 55° runell. We then returned diagonally leftwards to a vague snow-rib which led directly to the flat summit at over 6100 m. Stewart had done very well on his first big mountain route. There was little technical difficulty, but steep and sustained snow, with quite an atmosphere of isolation, and we had moved together most of the time. The view from on top was quite panoramic, real roof of the world stuff, with most of the big peaks of the Western Karakoram visible, and hosts of lesser ones.

Our high camp and early start had put us on top with plenty of time to spare, so we made an unroped descent to join John for a second breakfast, than back to the previous camp for lunch, then a tired but elated "perpetual-motion return to Girgindil for tea-time, and next day back to Hoppar, the jeep road, and civilisation.

Mountains Climbed:

1. Girgindil peak (5296 m). Many previous ascents, climbed/descent by 4 separate routes : NW and NE ridges, 2 routes on N face, all easy (Alpine F/PD)
2. 'Girgindil Pyramid' Not marked on Polish map. Estimated height 5750 m. No record of previous ascent. Climbed and descended by west ridge. Grade: Alpine D/TD.
3. Yengutz I. No height on Polish map. Estimated height: c.6000 m.
   No record of previous ascent.
   Climbed and descended by W ridge/SW face.
   Grade: Alpine AD/D.

August 1989 visit to Barpu glacier, Nagar district, Western Karakoram by six members of Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club: Ralph Atkinson, Ged Campion, Mick Curtin, John Keska, Stewart Muir and Dave Wilkinson.

 

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