BRAHMA SAKLI EXPEDITION, 1989

M. AMIN

THE PIR PANJAL is a lofty mountain chain with many of its peaks rising above the perennial snowline. Some of them rising above 3500 m and capped with extensive glaciers which project their tongues down the slopes.

The Pir Panjal descends through a long gentle slope towards the Valley of Kashmir, as opposed to its sharp escarpment - like ascent from the plains of Riasi. The gentle and graded nature of the slope on the northern flank makes it ideally suited to the accumulation of snow. Practically all Pir Panjal glaciers rest on the northern slopes. In contrast to the glaciers in Karakoram and other Himalayan ranges, they are small.

Pir Panjal is more imposing in its east-west axis, which in the Rupri promontory is studded with a number of peaks, most conspicuous among which is Brahma Sakli (5076 m) group, about which chronicles have not been fair, for very little is known of its history. Dr Neve makes a brief mention in his book Picturesque Kashmir. 'The other most prominent points are three great gentle peaks marked in the map as Brahma Sakul and irreverently dubbed by the surveyors as the ''three B's or bread, bone and beef.'' The cliffs of the centre one seem actually to be beyond perpendicular, but from Kounsernag side, on the south, they could be ascended.'

To attempt any of these challenging peaks of the group, in August 1989, under the auspices of the 'Kashmir Mountaineering Team' Srinigar, a 6-man expedition led by M. Amin was sent.

27 August: Srinagar to Manzgam: After loading all food-stuff and necessary equipment, we left Srinagar by bus. Our journey started with rain but the programme was strictly scheduled and all the participants were determined. In an hour we reached Pampore (16 km) On the main highway to the south. It is the centre of saffron industry. Further half hour's journey drove us to Avantipur (29 km). This popular stop on Pahelgam road is noted for its Hindu temple ruins. The temples were constructed by King Avantivarma between 885 and 833 A.D. after whom this ancient centre was named.

Photo 9

Since the bus was destined for Arfantnag we changed to another bus for Manzgam from the Islamabad bus stand. At 5 p.m. amidst rain our bus left us at Manzgam where we stayed for the night.

28 August: Manzgam to Kadalbal: It was thorugh the efforts of Mahammed Akbar, with whom we had stayed, that two porters were ready to carry the extra load of our expedition in this rain. We arranged porters for our onward journey at Rs. 60 per head per day excluding boarding and lodging.

Several routes via Damhal or Kongawatan could be chosen to Brahmasar but the Manzgam route is the shortest though steep. We left Manzgam, a village of 1000 cholas. at 10 a.m. An old temple with dharamshala where visitors could rest and a mosque, both situated on spur-100 m from the village, are the main attractions of the village. Our path is through juniper shrubs followed by pine forests. The gradual and continuous ascent led us to Buddalar in an hour. The gujjar nomads have cultivated maize on the terraces. Another habitation, Mandalav is nearby.

The two hours of steep ascent through forest took us to the top of Aburpathri (' the land of clouds') where we refreshed ourselves. The jungle was full of mist living upto its name Aburpathri. Here we saw the villagers from the lower villages cutting trees indiscriminately without fear. Our party was much displeased to see the bizzare fate of our forests. A herbal vegetable locally named 'Rael Gab' of mushroom family like yellow cauliflower is seen grown at this place. From Alasmarg after crossing a tiny stream, the ascent again continues.

Descending from forest we found ourselves in an open place, Upper Chrinbal, a nice camping site where number of nomads used to live in dokas. As we finished our lunch, the drizzle turned into torrential rain. We moved onwards. The rain had made our ascent further troublesome. At 4 p.m. we reached Kadalbal. We were shivering due to the cold as our clothes were wet. Losing no time we took shelter in an ordinary forest hut for the night.

29 August : Kadalbal to Brahmasar gujjar hut: A bright and clear morning on the 29th awakened us and our spirits. So we put our best foot forward and marched off from Kadalbal. From a distance Brahma Sakli peak was seen like a huge cathedral dome wrapped in solitary splendour.

Crossing a bridge over torrent, gradual ascent through forest led us to the beautiful meadow of Hawkawas in two hours. It is a vast pasture where many shepherds and gujjars reside during the summer season. From here we chose the right spur in order to reach Brahmasar early avoiding Zajimarg. The ascent was tiring. Tree belt thins out from here. Scattered dokas locally named 'Band' were observed. At 5.30 p.m. we reached a gujjar hut, the only hut half kilometre before Brahmasar lake.

30 August: Gujjar hut to base camp: We took advantage of the break in the weather next day. A chicken, arranged yesterday through the head shepherd in the area, was sacrificed towards Brahma Sakli to ward off bad weather.

Leaving all the heavy stocks under the supervision of our older porter at the doka, we all, 6 persons with one porter, moved off to BC. The path went over boulders till one gradually gains height and reaches Brahmasar (lake). We had lunch here and photographed this beautiful sar.

Brahmasar with its sky-blue water is c. 4000 m high. The whole lake looks like a sapphire embossed with aquamarine. It is circular in shape about half km in length and width each and seems deep. It is covered from the southeast and west by mountains. One outlet is towards east. A 20 minute ascent over boulders leads one to another but small tarn lying under the head of main Brahma Sakli peak. We saw heavy ice-blocks floating on its milky water. Actually no glacier feeds this big sar, only this small tarn transfers its waters into Brahmasar. There is no camping place, we however somehow managed to pitch our tents on a piece of land. In front of us stood the rocky head of Brahma Sakli. The night was cold.

31 August: BC to ABC: Left BC late in the morning. The ascent to Didam gali, locally named Kali gali, goes towards southwest. Our exhaustion was increased by crossing and jumping over boulders all the way. Gaining height, the boulders give way to ice. The ascent to the pass/gali was over a wide glacier on which fresh snow had fallen a,few days back. All the crevasses were buried under the snow and moraine. It was after 5 hrs of ascent we reached the top of the Didam gali (4704 m). The continuous steepness had made us tired and thirsty. The condition of A. K. Bhan and other members was pitiable. ABC was established on the top of the pass (4704 m). Brownish coloured stones on the left side of the top were observed. As the night fell, things livened up with torrent winds threatening to pierce our tent.

The group had an uncomfortable night and had been unable to brew adequate beverages and it was cold. Two members refused to continue due to the prevailing conditions and quite naturally the fit members were rather anxious to make an early go next day.

1 September : ABC to summit and return to gujjar hut: A grand sunrise in a clear sky and over the beautiful landscape in the morning inspired us to action. Far below in the distant valley of Gulab Garh plains, there was heavy fog. We noticed that the south ridge towards the Brahma Sakli peak is rather hazardous and there is perpetual danger of falling of rocks from the upper ridges. From the ridge there is a clear view of Gulab Garh plains far below. Amin did very useful work in preparing the route up the steep wall. There is no need of crampons. All the peaks in the area are made up of loose rpcks like Haramukh North peak. We stopped to rest near the col. Happily weather was good and in keeping with the spirit of the occasion. Bhan and Gulzar were terribly exhausted. From the bottom of the ridge to the col the slope is very steep and the last stretch of 150 m is steeper. We continued our ascent and soon our effort was rewarded. We were on the summit at 2 p.m. The magnitude of the range was revealed to our astonished eyes. We were delighted with the dramatic views of Brahma Sakli group. We descended after half an hour. Resting an hour at ABC we went down to BC. At BC we packed our tent and moved towards the gujjar hut. In torchlight around 9p.m. we reached the doka. The climb was celebrated around a camp fire.

2 September : Gujjar hut to Pachakul: We left the doka at 9 a.m. and chose the lower path upto Hawkawas. To our north was Zajimarg and the point where routes from Shopian and Manjipora leading to Gulab Garh pass meet. It forms the usual halting place on the Kashmir side of the pass and is distance of two stages about 20 km south of Shopian. Vigne describes the place as a very beautiful meadow and the bed of a mountain lake lying only a few hundred feet below the forest level.

At 1 p.m. we reached Peth Chiranbal where we had our lunch. Leaving Peth Chiranbal we descended to Bun Chiranbal (lower Chiranbal). There are gujjar dokas here. Crossed the bridge over a torrent. Path now turns to the right through a very dense forest full of monkeys. At Sunderbugh a shepherd family offered huka to our porters. These people are sturdy. The women are of fair-complexion. They are hardy and do more work than the males and tend their sheep seasonally on the high altitude pastures. Passing through Katarpathri and Nakh, we reached Cherikhul/Pachakul at 5 p.m. Pitched tents for the night.

3 September : Pachakul to Kongawatan : Pachakul is the best camping site seen during this expedition. It nestles with its tranquil charm and spring-time gaiety. Wherever one looks, one is overwhelmed by the splendid scenery and grand views. A good number of gujjar nomads live here during summer as most of the pasture land is good for grazing.

We left Pachkul late around noon for Kongawatan. The route passes towards northwest through forest and margs. Budalav was reached at 1 p.m. The onwards march through forest descends to Kongawatan. Night was spent at the forest hut.

4 September: Kongawatan to Ahrabal: Korigawatan is situated in a beautiful glade amid the mountains on the right bank of the Veshav river about 2 km south of the junction of the Chitta Nadi. The place is inhabited by nomadic gujjars said to be descendents of the Biblical Abraham and Isac. Rajput gujjars come here in summer from the plains with their flocks of cattle and buffalo to spend July and August months on the high meadows. There is now a second forest hut. The old hut was being renovated this time. At 3 p. m. we left Kongawatan and in 3 hours reached Ahrabal and lodged at a hotel for the night.

5 September : Ahrabal to Srinagar: Ahrabal is a popular resting place for the visitors. It is an area famed for its apples and has an interesting waterfall said to be the best in Kashmir. It is the start of the popular trek to Kounsernag.

Relieving our porters by an afternoon bus we left for Anantnag. The bus, via Kulgam Qaimoh, and Chewalgam reached Anantnag at 4 p.m. where we arranged another bus to Srinagar. Around 6 p.m. we arrived at Srinagar carrying with us many pleasant memories of the mountains and pastures we had seen during this expedition.

SUMMARY

A visit to the infrcquented Brahmasar area, Kashmir. Brahma Sakli (5076 m) was climbed.

 

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