THE LADAKH SCOUTS MAMOSTONG KANGRI EXPEDITION

Major A. M. SETHI

THE LADAKH SCOUTS Mamostong Kangri Expedition 1988 was planned and achieved by a single infantry unit of the Indian Army, the Ladakh Scouts. The greatest asset of this organisation is its men, who are born and brought up at altitudes from 3000 m to 4300 m. They know no fear of the heights of surviving in the snow bound areas. Their basic instincts, natural mountaineering skill, capability to improvise and capacity to withstand the rigours of high altitude, can only be believed if seen. This is the only reason why we ccfuld take the risk of exposing our team of 27 volunteers to heights above 5500 m. We did not have a separate climbing team and high altitude porters and all were trained to climb. Perhaps the remaining team members would have also climbed the peak, had the weather been more favourable and we were not bound by other constraints.

Mamostong Kangri (7516 m) is located on a ridge separating the Chong Kumdan glacier in the north and Thangman (old Kichik Kumdan glacier) glacier in the south. Both these glaciers flow from west to east into the Shyok river. Another glacier that originates little to the south of this peak is the Mamostong glacier which flows south, melts and joins the Tulum Puti Tokpo flowing from the Saser la to the Nubra river. The first ascent of Mamostong Kangri was made by the Indo-Japanese expedition in 1984. It followed the Mamostong glacier, across 'Mamostong Col' (5885 m)'to Thangman glacier and climbed the east ridge.1

Footnote

  1. See H.J. Vol. 41, p. 97.—Ed.

 

Mamostong Kangri can be approached along the Mamostong glacier or along the Thangman glacier. In both the cases the final climb can be the same; either via the south spur or the east spur. The peculiarity of this peak is its accessibility for a very brief period during the year. The pony track from Sasoma is buried under snow from November to June. From July to August water level rises, making the stream crossings by men and mules precarious and selective. Therefore the climbing of this peak is usually restricted from August to October. We could accept the challenge of attempting it in May because firstly, we were familiar with the route from Sasoma to the snout of Thangman glacier and secondly, we had certain administrative advantages which could not be available to others. Our first hurdle was of induction of the team and equipment across the Saser la. This 5395 m pass over the Saser range is closed from November to June each year.

The Mamostong massif rises 2000 m from the surrounding glaciers in less than 2.5 km. on the east-west ridge on which it is located, it rises 1000 m in just 1.2 km. North of this peak there is an icefall of over 2000 m, making that face extremely difficult, if not impossible. This peak can be possibly attempted from three directions, from the east; as we did, from the south via the col of 5885 m and from the west. The eastern spur is a steep icy one covered with a thin layer of snow. The southern spur is a combination of loose rock and ice. We could not see the western spur, but from a detailed study of the map, it i s expected to be an icy spur though less steep than the other two.

The volunteers tor our expedition had assembled at Partapur in the Nubra valley by mid - February. After a month long preparation we left Partapur on 24 March 1988 for Sasoma by road. En route we stopped at the Sumur gompa to seek blessings for the success of our expedition. We started our long trek from the roadhead at Sasoma on 26 March. Weather was extremely bad and our ponies could not make much headway beyond the first 16 kms. They returned a little short of the snout of Mamostong glacier. Beyond this we were entirely on our own. Fortunately our party was lightly equipped as most of our stores were already stocked at Chhongthash. The weather was particularly bad from 30 March to 4 April with winds blowing upto 80 km per hour. Despite innumerable difficulties due to the bad weather and soft snow, we managed to cross the Saser la on 5 and 6 April. This was quite an achievement of human endurance, if not a record of the earliest crossing. Thereafter we spent some time in the ice-pinnacles at the snout of the Thangman glacier during which we did advance training in ice-craft and also reconnaissance for the route. This was also our base camp for the expedition. After about 10 days we retired to Chhongthash (4700 m), which was our administrative base. Here some ponies were available to us from the Chhongthash army post about 15 km away.

The expedition was flagged off on 23 April from Chhongthash and we established base camp on the banks of frozen Shyok river on 24 April at 4740 m. By 26 April we established Cl at 5180 m on the glacier moraine of Thangman glacier. Ponies could be brought upto 2 km short of Cl, beyond which loads were carried on sledges and in rucksacks. We established C2 on 29 April about 17 km west of the base camp, on the same glacier, at 5640 m. This camp was at the foot of the Mamostong massif and 4 km southeast of it. It was our ABC. It was well stocked by using sledges, and we could stay there during prolonged spells of'bad weather. Beyond C2 the slopes were steep and sledges could not be used.

From the study of maps, we had selected the site for C3 at 6400 m about 2 km east of the peak. The direct and short route from C2 to C3 was over steep rock and ice. After three days of effort of route opening and fixing rope, the leader decided to attempt an alternative route from the east. This route was circuitous, over a number of crevasses. Yet it proved to be practical, after detailed reconnaissance and marking, the earlier route was aborted and the alternate route adopted. Our anticipation proved to be correct as we could use snow-bridges to cross most of the crevasses. However there were few instances of these snow-bridges collapsing and anxious moments in rescue and recovery. There were no accidents or injuries however and after five days of sustained effort C3 (6650 m) was established on saddle, 1.8 km east of the peak. We could recover most of our ropes and equipment used on the earlier route. Now since C3 was 250 m higher and closer to the peak, it was decided to attempt the peak from here itself, instead of having the assault camp in between. On 4 and 5 May we sent up a party to fix ropes beyond C3 but since the weather was marginal, we could not achieve much. On the 5th evening, the weather turned extremely bad and we decided to go down to ABC but it was not possible. The blizzard was blowing at 80 to 100 km per hour, visibility was less than 10 m and all the route markers were buried. The leader and deputy leader were both with this party and with their experience they brought everyone down safely to ABC on 7 May. As the weather improved on 10 May, C3 was again occupied. The following day ropes were fixed, route was secured upto 7000 m and it was decided to make the first attempt to the summit on the 13th.

The summit day was crystal clear with dark blue sky. The first party left at dawn at 5 a.m. closely followed by the others. Due to the clear weather and rarified atmosphere, it soon became extremely hot and exhausting. Gradient was a steady 55 to 70 degree and there was no respite in the steep climb upto 7200 m, which we reached by 11 a.m. We had to kick the crampons at each step to gain a toe-hold in the harder snow and it was exhausting. Our noses were nearly touching the snow in front of our faces. The sun was shining brightly and there were chances of an avalanche or the snow-bridges caving in. Fortunately nothing of that sort happened and we made slow but steady progress. Beyond this point the gradient eased a little and the highest point appeared like a bump against the sky about 300 m away. This last climb had a steep slope on either side and the last two spare ropes were used at this place. No sooner had the leading party reached there, they realised that it was only a false crest at 7450 m and the peak was stil! 300 m away. Out of the 9 members who started in the morning, 7 members including the leader, made it to this bump or the false crest. Beyond this point, although the climb was not very steep, there was a precipice on either side going down by almost 2000 m and we had to go roped. There was only one length of rope and we had yet to traverse this last 300 m on the sharp ridge. On this last rope, the first summit party of Naik Chhering Angchuk and Scout Stanzin Chhultim under Subedar Chhering Nurbu moved ahead. As the second party reached this spot they removed one length of the fixed rope and now another three climbers could move ahead. However, one person had to be left behind. The leader decided in favour of others to stay back at 7450 m and the others made it to the summit by 1.35 p.m. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit thanking the Lord Buddha and feeling exhilarated at the success. Now occasional clouds started covering the peak and we started the descent using the fixed ropes. We reached C3 at 4.30 p.m. After almost twelve hours of trudging through the snow without any extra oxygen we were fairly exhausted but in good shape. We decided to spend the night at C3.

On 14 May the second summit parry occupied C3 to attempt the peak on the following day. In the afternoon the weather turned bad with snowfall, strong wind and poor visibility. Seeing the conditions, there was little hope for the summit attempt next day. Yet from the weather report of the nearby army posts we could make optimistic forecasts at about 7 p.m. Fortunately it cleared up by about 2 a.m. and the second summit party started early on the 15th. This party was led by Lance Naik Tashi Wangdus and Major A.K. Gogoi. Taking advantage of the experiences of the earlier summitters, all members made it to the peak by 11.30 a.m. This was quite an achievement.

A third summit party was kept in readiness at C3 but 16 May onwards weather again became bad and it was decided to wind up the expedition. The expedition party returned following the same route over Saser la, in much better snow and weather conditions and reached the roadhead at Sasoma on 24 May. Thus the first all Ladakh Scouts expedition came to a grand finale just in time to join the festivities of its Silver Jubilee celebrations on 1 June 1988.

Note on the approach route:

(a) Leh to Sasoma. It is 158 km of dirt track going north, which takes upto 2 days in vehicles. Highest point on this road is the Khardung la, (5540 m) over the Ladakh range about 30 km north of Leh. Road north of this pass tends to get temporarily blocked with snow/avalanches during bad weather upto 10 days from November to July.

(b) Sasoma to Saser la. Saser la (5395 m) is about 30 km east of Sasoma. They are connected by a pony track, which is along the nala (Tulum Puti Tokpo). This nala starts at Saser la, flows west to join Nubra river at Sasoma. Saser la locks up the Depsang Plains across the Saser mountains from November to June each year. At the end of March, beyond the first 6 km, the pony track was blocked with ice and snow. After clearing bad patches, the ponies could be used for about 16 km from Sasoma. Beyond this the movement was entirely on manpack basis. The snow and ground conditions were treacherous, we were sinking hip to waist deep and had to crawl on all fours to cross bad patches. The last 6 km climb to the Saser la is over hard ice of frozen lakes or glacier and we had to use crampons. The movement from Sasoma to Saser la was very slow and we had to establish three camps. Our difficulties were compounded due to extremely bad weather conditions, strong winds and poor visibility.

On the either side of Saser la, there is a glacier for about 4 to 6 km.

(c) Saser la to Shyok river. It is 8 km down hill west to east. Movement was partially on the glacier and the rest through soft snow as the track was lost in snow. We established one camp about half way on this stretch.

(d) Shyok river to Thangman glacier. It is 8 km to north along the Shyok river. We crossed the flowing river thrice and the frozen river once. Camp was set up at the snout of the Thangman glacier on the banks of Shyok river. Ice-pinnacles of the glacier, 30 to 70 m high, come down near the river-bed and provided excellent training ground for the climbers. Here the river was frozen hard while further south it was flowing.

(e) Thangman glacier. It is 17 km long flowing west to east. At the end of April, moraine was visible at few places for the first 8 km, beyond which it was either snow or ice. Sledges could be used for pulling the loads after the first 6 km. During afternoon, the snow becomes soft and the sledges would sink deep, therefore it was ideal to start moving by 4.30 a.m. and complete the movement latest by 11 a.m. This glacier has precipice walls towards the south and mountain slopes in the north. Two more side glaciers join it from the north. At the foot of the Mamostong Kangri this glacier is separated from the Mamostong glacier by a col of 5885 m. From the col 5885 m ('Mamostong Col'; by crossing this col the peak was first climbed in 1984 and again in 1989), to the snout this glacier is 1 to 2 km wide and not very steep. The crevasses were mostly covered with snow-bridges. From the Col 5885 m the Thangman glacier turns north, anti-clockwise to the east of the peak, where is_quite steep with a number of huge crevasses. After detailed and laborious reconnaissance, a safe route can be found. From the east-saddle to the summit, we used about 1500 m of nylon fixed ropes. The rope was fixed using deadman or snow-pickets which we had improvised from thick aluminium sheets. After we ran short of these pickets, we had to sacrifice a number of ice axes. Jummars were useful on the fixed rope. It is anticipated that from July to October ponies can be used from Sasoma upto about 8 km upon the Thangman glacier and one will be left with about 15 km move on foot or sledges upto the peak.

Team:

Major Anand Mohan Sethi (leader), with 25 members from Ladakh Scouts.

Successful summiters:

(a) 13 May 1988

Subedar Chhering Nurbu, Naik Chhering Angchuk, Naik Mohammad Shafi, Scout Stanzin Chhultim, Scout Mohammad Ibrahim and Scout Rigzin Phunchuk.

(b) 15 May 1988

Major A. K. Gogoi, Lance Naik Tashi Wangdus, Lance Naik Tundup Dorje, Scout Sonam Tragias, Scout Chhering Angdus, Scout Thukje Loldan, Scout Sonam Stobgias, Scout Nawang Sonam and Scout Sonam Stobdan.

SUMMARY

The second ascent of Mamostong Kangri (7516 m) by a new approach route from the east. The team was first to follow the Thangman glacier(old Kichik Kumdan glacier) to the base of the peak and climbed the peak on 13 and 15 May 1988 by the eastern ridge.

 

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