EXPEDITIONS 1975-1977

  1. EXPEDITIONS 1975
  2. EXPEDITIONS 1977

 

 

EXPEDITIONS 1975-1977

Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
EXPEDITIONS 1975

GARHWAL
Kalanka (22,740 ft - 6931 m) Kamiichi Hoso-Kai Expdn. I. Tanabe 1st ascent 3.6.75
KARAKORAM
Skyang Kangri (24,750 ft- 7544 m) Austrian F.Deutschmann Attempted

 

Note : The bulk of the 1975 Expeditions have been listed in H.J., Volume XXXIV. 1974- 75.

 

EXPEDITIONS 1976
NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)

 

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Everest
(29,028 ft - 8848 m)
Jt. British- Nepalese Army Mtng. Expdn. Lt. Col. Tony Streather Climbed via South Col 16.5.76
2 Lhotse
(27,293 ft-8511 m)
Kanagawa Alpine Assoc. K. Kamei Attempted
3 Makalu
(27,824 ft - 8481 m)
Combined Spanish and Czech Expdn. J. M. Montfort (Sp)
I. Galfy (Cz)
5th ascent 24.5.76
by SE. ridge (Sp) . and SW. buttress (Czech)
4 Jannu
(25,294 ft - 7710 m)
Sangaku Doshikai Jannu Expdn. M. Konishi Climbed by N. face 11, 12, 13 and 14.5.76
(1st ascent by N. face
5 Dhaulagiri I
(26,795 ft - 8167 m)
Italian A.C. R. de Bertolis 4th ascent 4.5.76
6 Annapurna IV
(24,688 ft - 7525 m)
German P. Schubert Climbed from the South 18.5.76
7 Glacier Dome (23,191 ft - 7063 m) Austro- German R. Messner Attempted
8 Lam Jung Himal (22,921 ft-6986 m) Kochi Him. Expdn. S. Kunisawu Climbed
28, 29 and
30.4.76
9 Gurja Himal (23,599 ft-7193 m) Alsace A.C. P. Ertlen Climbed 5.5.76
10 Manaslu
(26,760 ft - 8156 m)
Third Korean Manaslu Expdn. Jung Sup Kim Attempted
NEPAL (Post-Monsoon)
11 Everest
 
(29,028 ft - 8848 m)
American Bicentennial Everest Expdn. P. Trimble Climbed via South Col. 8.10.76
12 Makalu II
(Kangchungtse) (25,066 ft-7640 m)
Seppyo A.C. Y. Shuji Climbed 13.10.76
13 Manaslu(26,760 ft- 8156 m) Iran-Japanese Expdn. Brig. Gen. M. Khakbiz and
N. Tamura
Climbed 12.10.76 via E. face
14 Kanjiroba Main Peak
(22,580 ft-6882 m)
Hong Kong Kanjiroba Expdn. R. Isherwood Climbed 16.10.76
15 Annapurna South Peak (23,683 ft- 7219 m) Hong Kong Annapurna S. Pk. Expdn. Capt. P. C, Cooper Climbed 3.11.76 via E. face
16 Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 ft-7246 m) Jap. Rock Climbing Socy. (J. A.C.) K. Shindo Attempted
17 Tukche (22,703 ft - 6920 m) Nepal Police Mtng. Expdn. Suptd. G. Shrestha Climbed 2.10.76
GARHWAL
1 Nanda Devi
 
(25,645 ft-7817 m)
Indo- Japanese K. Kano, Jagjit Singh 1st Traverse of both peaks. East climbed on 3.6.76 Traverse
13-15.6.78. Main
climbed on 15.6.76
2 Changabang (22,520 ft-6864 m) Japanese N. Toda 2nd ascent 13.6.76, via SW ridge
3 (a)Changabang (22,520 ft. -6864 m)
(b)Sakram(20.520 ft. 6254 m)
British C. Read 3rd ascent 2.10.76 via SE. face
Climbed
4 Changabang (22,52:0 ft-6864m) British pair J, Tasker and P. Boardman 4th ascent 15.10.76 by a direct line on
W. face
5 Pt. 21,500 ft
(6553 m) between the Ghangabang and Uttari Rishi glaciers,
British Solo P. Burgess Climbed 4.6.76
6 (a) Kalanka (22,740 ft- 6931 m
(b) Pt. 20,300 ft (6137 m) on ridge between Ghangabang and Rishi Kot
Italian C. Rabbi Attempted
Climbed 18.10.76
7 (a) Devistan I : (21,910 ft- 6678m)
(b) Devistan II
(21.420 ft- 6529 m)
American D. J. Graber Climbed 4.6.76 via E. face, repeated 5.6.76.
Climbed 4.6.76
from the east and descent via SW. ridge
8 Mrigthuni (22,490 ft-6855 m) German Dr H. Meck Climbed 5.10.76 via E. ridge and over the E. summit to the Main Pk.
9 (a) Maiktoli (22,320 ft- 6803m)
(b)Devtoli(22.270 ft-6788 m)
Japan Workers' Alpine Fed. K. Kondo Climbed 12 & 13.10.76
12.10.76 Traverse between the two peaks 12- 13.10.76
10 Dimagiri (23,184 ft-
7066 m)
Japanese Dr A.Makinouchi Climbed 21 & 24.10.76
11 Dunagiri
(23,184 ft-7066 m)
American G.Stephenson Attempted
12 Dunagiri
(23,184 ft-7066 m)
Japanese M. Kaga Attempted
13 Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) Yugoslavian T. Sazonov Climbed 15 & 16.5.76
14 Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) Indian Lt. Col. N. Kumar Climbed 17.5.76 and skied down from summit to B.C.
15 Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) German S. Hup- fauer Climbed 2& 6.10.76
16 Bethartoli S. (20,730 ft-6318 m) Australian R. Ryan Climbed
17 Abi Gamin (24,130 ft- 7355 m) Indo- Japanese Women's Expdn. II DrM. Agrawal Climbed 18.6.76 Attempted Kamet
18 Chaukhamba I (23,420 ft-7138 m) Indian P. Chow- dhury Climbed 6.10.76
19 Jogin III (20,065 ft- 6116 m) Indian Capt. J. Bahuguna Climbed 5.10.76. Jogin I attempted
20 Gangotri I (21,890 ft- 6672 m) Indian ------ Climbed 10.6.76
21 Rudugaira (19,090 ft- 5819 m) Indian student teams ------ Climbed by Doon School in June and Univ. of Roorkee in July.
KULU —LAHUL
1 Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft-6446 m) Japanese H. Takemato Attempted
2 Fluted Peak (Spiti) (20,200 ft-6157 m) Climbers' Group,
W. Bengal
  Climbed 27.8.76
3 M5
(20,998 ft-6400 m)
American D. Young Attempted
4 Mulkila (M4) (21,380 ft.- 6517 m) Ryohou Club Japan T. Oshi 3rd ascent 16.9.76
KASHMIR — KISHTWAR
1 a) Sher Khan (19,324 ft- 5890 m)
b) Taragiri (c. 17,700 ft-5395 m)
c) Sundar Pahar 08.330 ft- 5587 m
d) Arjuna (20 440 ft-6230 m)
Univ. of St. Andrews, Scotland J. Cant Climbed 16.7.76
Climbed 29.6.76
Climbed 8.6.76
Attempted
2 Katori (20,142 ft-6138 m) British pair C. Bonington Attempted
3 Cathedral (17,619 ft 5370 m) Loughborough Univ. M. C. A.Judkowski Attempted
4 a) Barnaj II(20.637 ft- 6290 m)
b) Pt. 5130 m (16,832ft)
Japanese Alpine Instrument
Technique Club
  Attempted
Climbed 13.10.76
5 Nun (23,410 ft- 7135 m) Czech F. Cejka Climbed 27 & 28.10.76
6 Nnn (23,410 ft- 7135 m) Swiss S. Saudan Attempted
7 a) Kim (23,250 ft- 7087m")
b) WhiteNeedle (21.510 ft- 6556 m)
Swiss ---- Climbed 31.8.76
Climbed 26.8.76
8 a) Pt. 6550 m (21,491 ft
b) Pt. 6560 m (21,523 ft) (both in Doda valley)
Tokyo Univ. A. C. K. Otaki Climbed 17.9.76
Climbed 19 & 20.9.76
9 Kanglacha (stok Kangri) (20,723 ft-6316 m) Southampton Univ. S. Fraser Climbed by E. face
10 Sickle Moon (21,569 ft- 6574 m) Japanese K. Ohtaki Attempted
11 Pt. 6550 m 21,491 ft. (Doda valley-Zanskar range) Japanese K. Ohtaki Climbed both W. and E. Peaks 17, 19 and 20.9.76
12 Haramukh E. (16,870 ft- 5142 m) Japanese M. Ando Climbed

 

KARAKORAM

 

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 K2 (28,250 ft 8610 m) Klub Wyso- kogorski J. Kurczab Attempted NE. ridge
2 Skyang Kangri (24,750 ft-7544 m) Gakushuin Univ. A.C. G. Mitsui 1st ascent 11.8.76 by E. ridge
3 Trango Tower (Nameless Tower) (20,530 ft-6257 m) British A.C.G.   Climbed , 8 & 9.7.76
4 Broad Peak (26,400 ft-8047 m) French Y. Seigneur Attempted
5 Hidden Peak (26,470 ft- 8068 m) French L. Audouber Attempted
6 Masherbrum (25,660 ft-
7821 m)
Japanese H. Miyashita Attempted
7 BaltoroKangri (23,990 ft-7312 m) Japanese T. Akiyatna 1st ascent 7.7.76
8 Gasherbrum II (26,360 ft-8035 m) Japanese H. Aoki Attempted
9 Mustagh Tower (23,680 ft-7273 m) Japanese R. Ichihashi Attempted
10 Saltoro Kangri II
(25,279 ft-7705 m)
German G. Schulz Attempted
11 Singhi Kangri (23,628 ft-7202 m) Tohoku Univ. H.Sato 1st ascent 8 & 9.7.76
12 Apsaras 23,770 ft-7245 m) Osaka M.C. Univ. H. Misawa 1st ascent 7.7.76 by S. ridge
13 Sherpi Kangri (24,212 ft-7380 m) Kobe Univ. K. Hirai 1st ascent 10.7.76
14 K7 22,754 ft- 6935 m) Japanese Y. Narisue Attempted
15 Gharkun 1,720 ft-6620 m) Iida M.C. H. Sugiyama Attempted Climbed the S. peak (6500 m) on 29 and 31.7.76
16 Latok I (23,442 ft-7145 m) Shensu A.C. Y. Miyahira Attempted
17 a) Ganchen Pk. (21,200 ft- 6462 m)
b) Sosbun Brakk (21,040 ft- 6413 m)
German R. Wagner Attempted
 
Attempted
18 Baintha Brakk (Ogre) (23,900 ft- 7285 m) Japanese T. Nishihara Attempted
19 Batura Mustagh I (25,540 ft-7785 m) German DR A. Schlee Climbed 30.6.76
20 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Fukuoka Univ. H. Kato Attempted, Diamir Face
21 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Austrian --- 5th ascent 11.8.76 via SW. ridge
22 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Austrian- German- Polish
Expdn.
M. Gradnitter and
W. Rutkiewicz
Attempted via S. Face (Rupal valley)
23 Phuparash (22,390 ft-6824 m) Italian   Attempted
HINDU KUSH
1 Tirich Mir (7706 m) Swiss German-Austrian H. Von Kanel Climbed 25.7.76
2 Tirich Mil- West IV (7338m) Spanish B. Mancebo Climbed 23.8.76 via SW. face
3 a) Ghul Lasht Zom East Pk. (6611 m)
b) Dertona Peak (6100 m)
c) Istor-o-Nal North (7373 m)
Dutch R. von Maastricht Climbed 19, 20 & 21.7.76
Attempted
2nd ascent 6, 7 & 8.8.7
4 a) Kohe Keshni-khan (6755 m)
b) Kohe Wark (6104 m)
c) Kohe Qalat (5508 m)
d) Kohe Hawar (6183 m)
e)Shakhaur (7116 m)
f) Noshaq(7492 m)
g) Darban Zom (7219 m)
Polish R. Szafirski Climbed 4.7.76 via N. face Also traverse E-W 3-6.7.76
Climbed 27.6.76
Climbed 27.6.76
Climbed 27.6.76 via S. face
3rd ascent 12.7.76
Climbed 22.7.76 2nd ascent
5 Kohe Keshni- khan (6755 m) Polish R. Krawczyk 11-14.8.76 via SE. ridge
6 a) Noshaq (7492 m)
b)Shingeik Zom (7291)
c)Darban Zom (7219 m)
Polish K. Olech Climbed
Climbed
Climbed
7 Shakhaur (7116 m) Spanish J. Garreta Climbed 25 & 28.7.76 via NE. ridge
8 Shakhaur (7116 m) Spanish A. Arias Climbed 4.7.76 via N. spur
9 a) Kohe Galati
b) Kohe Benam
c)Langar Zom N. Pk (6750 m) (W. 189) (Putz 7050 m)
Regensburg H. K.Expdn. A. Putz All peaks climbed during the full traverse of theN. Ridge of Langer up to its north ernmost summit 21.24.8.76
10 a) Langar Zom . Pk (6750 m) (W. 189)
b) Langar Zom Main (7070 m) (W. 190)
c) Langar Zom S. Pk (6850 m) (W. 191)
d) Langar Zom Hind (or SE. Pk) (7061 m) (W. 192)
e)Pt. 6760 m (south of Langar Zom S.)
Polish R. Koziol Traversed and climbed all peaks 14.18.8.76

Climbed 1.8.76
11 a) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268)
b) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269)
Polish T. Kozubek Climbed 18.8.76
Climbed 1.8.76
12 a) Kohe QalaPanja (6328m (W. 388)
b) Pt. 5340 m (W. 394)
c) Pt. 5434 m
d) Pt. 5759 m (W. 391)
e) Pt. 6007 m (W. 402)
Polish M.Dabrowsi 3rd ascent 19.8.76
Climbed 6.8.76
1st ascent 6,8.76
Climbed 12.8.76
1st ascent 21.8.76
13 Eshan valley
a)Pt. 5250 m
b)Pt. 5695 m
c)Pt. 5890 m
d)Pt. 5565 m
e)Kohe Laskhor
Polish B. Mac
Climbed 23.8.76
Climbed 31.8.76
Climbed 31.8.76
Climbed 9.9.76
2nd ascent 24.8.76
14 Suigal valley
a) Kohe Askival (5870 m)
b) Pt. 5386 m
c) KoheAinshval (5626 m)
d) Kohe Morusg (6435 m)
British J. L. Biggs
Climbed 8 & 9.8.76

Climbed 22 & 23.8.76
Attempted
15 Agram H. K. Khorbe valley
a) Kohe Chap- kotala (5770 m) (WA 205
b) Pt. 5580 m (WA. 192)
c) Pt. 5454 m (WA. 208)
d) Pt. 5440 m (WA. 181)
e) Pt. 5443 m (WA. 212)
f)Pt.5420 m(WA. 211)
g) Pt. 5390 m (WA. 182)
h) Pt. 5260 m (WA. 179)
i) Pt. 5250 m (WA. 178)
Polish A. Lach 1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
1st ascent
16 a)KoheBandaka S. (6843 m)
b)KoheBandaka Sakhi (6414 m)
c)Pt.6044 m between Bandaka and Bandaka Sakhi
Polish J.Jaworski Climbed 7-10.8.76 via new route from the east.
Climbed via SE. ridge
2nd ascent
17 Kohe Haftnaw (4921 m) Spanish M. A. Torre Climbed
18 Noshaq (7492 m) Spanish Climbed 25.8.76
19 a) Noshaq (7429 m)
b) Gumbaze Safed(6800 m)(W 121)
Yugoslavian Climbed
Attempted

 

Latok III from B.C.

58. Latok III from B.C. Note page 302.

Mango Gusor from the Biafo glacier.

59. Mango Gusor from the Biafo glacier. Note page 302.

The South west buttress of Saraghrar.

60. The South west buttress of Saraghrar. Note page 304. Photo: Ramon Bramona Rams.

Note : WA refers to numbers given by J. Wala on his map 'Agram H.K.'

 

 

⇑ Top

 

EXPEDITIONS 1977
NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Everest (29,028 ft-8848 m) New Zealand Everest Expdn. K. Woodford Attempted
2 Lhotse (27,293 ft-8511 m) Swabian Himalayan Expdn. Dr G.
Schmatz
Climbed ''2nd ascent) 8 9 & 11-5-77
3 Nuptse(25,726 ft-7841 m) Japanese Tohokei rukai team H. Kato Attempted
by NW. ridge and climbed the NW.summit (7745 m) 11-5-77.
4 Makalu (27,824 ft-8481 m) American J. Roskelly and J. Long W. face
5 Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (25,066 ft-7640 m) Chiba Univ. H.Yoshinaga Attempted NW. ridge
6 Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft-8167 m) West German Italian R. Messner Attempted S. face
7 (26,760 ft-8156 m) West German G. Lenser Attempted NE. ridge
8 Himalchuli(25,895 ft-7893 m) Meiji Univ. T. Sugasawa Attempted E. ridge
9 Churen Himal (24,184- ft-7371 m) Kawasaki A.C. K. Sato Attempted from north
10 Kangchunne (in Kanjiroba Himal) (21,139 ft-6443 m) Osaka A.C. K. Mizu- tani Attempted
11 Sisne Himal (Kanjiroba region) (22,688 ft-6915 m) British Capt. R.A.L. Anderson Attempted
NEPAL (Post-Monsoon)
12 Everest (29,028 ft8848 m) Korean Young Do Kim Climbed 15.9.77
13 Pumor (23,442 ft-7145 m) First Canadian Himalayan Expdn. I. Rowe Climbed 7.10.77 by SW. ridge
14 Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft-8167 m) Japan Kansai Expdn. Dr Y. Tsu- kazaki Attempted Via. South buttress of W. face
15 Annapurna I (26,545 ft-8091 m) Royal Netherland A.C. X. Varrijn- Stuart Climbed 13.10.77
16 Annapurna III (24,787 ft- 7555 m) Italian F. Santon Climbed 23 & 25.10.77 by W. ridge
17 Manaslu (26,760 ft-8156 m) French J. Frehel Attempted via E. ridge
18 Rokapi (south Nampa) (22,447 ft-6842 m) Northumbria Himalaya Expdn. R. Godfrey Climbed 10.10.77 via SW. ridge
GARHWAL
1 Nanda Devi (25,645 ft-7817 m) British E. Roberts Climbed 21 and 22.6.77 via 1936 route
2 Nanda Devi (25,645 ft-7817 m) Indo-Japanese T. Morita Attempted via American route of 1976
3 Bamba Dhura (20,778 ft- 6334 m) Himalayan Assoc. Calcutta M. Banerjee Climbed 5.10.77
4 Kalanka (22,740 ft-6931 m) Czech A.C. Liaz Jablonec and Nisou F. Grunt 2nd ascent 20.9.77 (first via the N. face)
5 Changabang (22,520 ft-6864 m) Australian G. Mathew Attempted
6 Rishi Kot (20,460 ft-6236 m) British M. Gledhill Climbed 21.9.77 also climbed Pt. 19,730 ft. NE. along the ridge from Rishi Kot
7 NandaGhunti(20,700 ft- 6309 m) Indian - Climbed 2.10.77
8 Mrigthuni (22,490 ft 6855 m) Giri Doot Ladies Expdn. - Climbed 24.9.77
9 Nar Parbat (19,210 ft-5855 m) Indo-N.Z. Ocean-to-Sky
Expdn.
Sir E. Hillary Climbed 17.10.77
10 Maiktoli (22,320 ft-6803 m) Japanese H. Fukuriki Climbed 29 and 31.5.77 and 1.6.77 via S. ridge
11 Bethartoli Himal (20,840 ft-6352 m) Italian R. Moro 1st ascent via the
N. ridge
12 Bethartoli South (20,730 ft-6318 m) American L. Jerstad Climbed
13 Dunagiri (23,184 ft-7066 m) Japanese Y. Ohga Attempted via E. ridge
14 Tharkot
(20,010 ft-6099 m)
Japanese M. Hagra Climbed 4, 5and6.10.77 Also climbed Banoti (5645 m)
15 Tharkot (20,010 ft-6099 m) Bombay Ladies
team
L. Patel Attempted
16 Kamet (25,447 ft-7756 m) I.M.F. Ladies Expdn. M. Agrawal Climbed 14.6.77
17 Chiring We (21,520 ft- 6559 m) The Moun-taineers, Bombay Harish Kapadia Attempted. Climbed Pt. 18,372 it
18 Rataban(20,100 ft-6166 m) NCC Ladies Expdn. S. Kanta Climbed 28.8.77
19 Jaonli(21,760 ft-6632 m) Army Artillery Expdn. Maj. D. K. Khuller Climbed
20 Banderpunch (19,814 ft-6045 m) team D. K. Sarkar Climbed 24.9.77
21 Koteshwar (19,800 ft- 6035 m) I.I.T. Bombay S. Kulkarni Climbed 23.5.77
22 Thelu (19,696 ft-6003 m) Bengal team ---- Climbed 8.6.77

 

Between Camps 2 and 3 on the SW, buttress of Saraghrar.

61. Between Camps 2 and 3 on the SW, buttress of Saraghrar. Note page 304. Phpto: Raman Bramona Rams.

Sad Ishtragh (KZ62) from the NW. The thinner dotted lines indicate route hidden from view.

62. Sad Ishtragh (KZ62) from the NW. The thinner dotted lines indicate route hidden from view. Note page 305. Photo: Ian Grace

K 88, 89, 91 and 92 from the east, from the lower slopes of KZ 71.

63. K 88, 89, 91 and 92 from the east, from the lower slopes of KZ 71. Note page 305. Photo: Ian grace.

 

KULU — LAHUL— SPITI

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 Pt. 20,570 ft (Karcha Nal, Spiti) Irish Himalayan Expedition M.C. Curran 1st ascent 19.9.77
2 a) Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft- 6446 m)
b)Pt. 20,300 ft (Devachen)
c) Papsura (21,165 ft- 6451 m)
d) Angdu Ri (19,500 ft- 5944 m)
North of England Himalayan Expdn. P. Bean Climbed 28.5.77 via SW. ridge
First ascent 26.5.77
Climbed 1.6.77 via SW. ridge
Climbed
3 Upper Tos glacier
a) Pt. c 18,000 ft
b) Pt. 19,800 ft Pt.
c) 17,600 ft
d) Pt. 17,820 ft
e) Pt. 19,800 ft (middle of the 3 peaks between Dharm- sura and Rinz- ing)
f) Pt. 17,650 ft (first peak that runs south-west from Roberts Pk.)
Univ. of Bristol Mtng. Club C. Owen  
First ascent 9.6.77 via W. face
First ascent 12.6.77 via S. ridge
First ascent 2.6.77
First ascent 2.6.77
First ascent 30.5.77
First ascent 23.5.77
4 CB 49 (18,685 ft- 5695 m) W.H.M.I. Manali R. Singh Climbed 17.7.77
5 Fluted Pk. (Lohsar Nal") (20,200 ft-6157 m) Climbers Grp. Serampore S. Ghosh Climbed 27.8.77
6 Muker Beh (19,910 ft-6069 m) Explorers & Adventurers, Bombay M.S. Shankaran Attempted
KASHMIR — KISHTWAR — LADAKH
1 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) Mountain Travel, America G. Rowell 5th ascent 18 and 20.6.77
2 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) Swiss S. Saudan 6th ascent 26.6.77 Saudan skied down from the summit to B.C.
3 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) Italian S. Martini 7th ascent 19.8.77
4 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) Army School Expedition -- 8 th ascent 16.9.77
5 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) Austrian E. Vanis Attempted
6 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) West German E. Rubel Attempted
7 Kun (23,250 ft-7087 m) Small team H. Schell Climbed
8 a) Kun (23,250 ft- 7087m)
b) Pt. 20,670 ft- 6300 m) (above Phirtse Pass)
Hauser Inter- national G. Hauser Climbed 19.8 and 2.9.77
Climbed
9 a) Eiger
b) Cathedral (17,619 ft- 5370 m)
Irish Mtng. Club C. Torrarrs Attempted
Attempted
10 a) Pt. 20,970 ft- (6392 m) (Kiar Nal)
b) Sickle Moon (21,569 ft 6574 m)
Carlisle Mtng. Club S. Hepburn First ascent 7.10.77
Attempted
11 Barnaj II
(20,637 ft-6290 m)
Japanese N. Kubo Attempted; climbed Pts. 6150 m and 6170 m South' of
Barnaj II
12 Barnaj II (20,637 ft-6290 m) British P. Nunn Attempted
13 Gharol (19,889 ft-6062 m) Army Signals Expdn. Maj. A. G. Roy Climbed
14 a) 78 (19,850 ft- 6050 m)
b) 72(20,260 ft- 6175m)
Italian G. Buscaini 1st ascent 26.7.77
15 Leh Pk. (19,981 ft-6090 m) Italian S. Billoro Climbed, along with 3 other five-
thousanders
KARAKORAM
1 K2 (28,250 ft- 8610 m) Japanese I. Yoshizawa 2nd ascent 8 & 9.8.77
2 Broad Peak (26,400 ft-8047m) Japanese M. Yuazua 2nd ascent 8.8.77
3 Gasherbrum I (26,470 ft-8068 m) Yugoslavian J. Loncar Climbed 8.7.77
4 Biale (21,071 ft-6422 m) Japanese M. Aoki 1st ascent 22 & 24.7.77
5 Latok II (23,461 ft-7151 m) British D. Morrison Attempted
6 Latok II (23,461 ft-7151 m) Italian A. Berga- maschi Climbed 28.7.77 Also chmbed 15 other five-thousanders

 

Note: These are revised heights, after the recent survey by the Italian party. The original height of Latok II is 7108 m. The above revised he'orht of Latok

It is greater than the original height of Latok I ! -Ed

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
7 Tahu Rutum (21,822 ft-6651
m)
Mtng, Federation of Osaka N.Kuwabara 1st ascent 13 & 14.7.77
8 Kamnire Dior(23,433ft-7142 m) German-Austrian D. Class Attempted
9 K7 (22,754 ft- 6935m) Japanese H. Ishikawa Attempted
10 a)Mt.Ghent NE. (24,089 ft - 7342m)
b) Depak (23 459 ft- 7150 m)
c) Pt 6650 m
d)Chogron Kangri (22,474 ft- 6850m)
e)SiaLaKangri(20,177 ft- 6150 m)
O. A. V. W. Axt 1st ascent 28.6.77
2nd 26.6.77
1st ascent 11.7.77
1st ascent 14.7.77
1st ascent 15.7.77
11 Batura I (25,540 ft-7785 m) Japanese S. Kono Attempted
12 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125m) American J. M. Hell- man Attempted
13 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Polish A. Zyzak Attempted
14 Phuparash Central (22,262 ft-6785 m) Charlotte Mason College Expdn. R. Rutland Climbed 18.8.77
15 Pt. c 7000 m (about 3 km SW, of Chogolisa) Japanese H. Akiyama 1st ascent 14 & 22.7.77 ("Pruppoo Burkh" named by the Japs has been accepted by the Pak authorities)
16 Trango Tower (main summit) (20,530 ft-6257 m) American G. Rowell 1st ascent of the main summit June 1977
HINDU KUSH
1 Saraghrar (7349 m) Spanish R. Bramona Rams Attempted
2 Tirich Mir West IV (7338 m) Italian T. Vidoni Climbed 21 & 22.7.77 by SW. face
3 Tirich North I (6732m) Swiss J-J. Asper Attempted
4 Istor-o-Nal NE. (7276 m) Nagoya Keiryo Club H. Hikota Attempted
5 Garmush (6244m) Doshisha Univ. T. Matsumura Climbed 26 & 27.8.77
6 Udren Zom Central (7080 m) Japanese K. Hirai 1st ascent 10.8.77
7 Urgunte Bala valley
a) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268)
b) Pt. 5800 m (next to Kohe Awal)
c) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269)
d) Kohe Tez (7015 m)
e) Shoghordok Zom (6838 m) (W. 267)
f) Shoyoz Zom (6905 m)
g) Urgunt East (6920 m) (W. 265)
h) Kohe Urgunt (7038 m) (W. 258)
Czech M.Neuman n  
 
Climbed 28.6; 1.7 & 9.7.77
Climbed 2.7.77
Climbed 5, 6 & 7.7.77
Traverse on 8 &9.7.77 11.7.77
11.7.77
12.7.77
12.7.77
8 Mandaras valley
a) M9 (6100 m) (W.126)
b) M5(6074 m) (W.135)
c) Kohe Man- darasM8 (6628 m) (W. 129)
d) M7 (6284 m) (W. 132)
e) Noshaq (7492 m)(W. 98)Bandaka region - Zidghan valley
f) Kohe Bandaka (6843 m)
g) Kohe Zerago (5907 m) and
h) Kohe Nol (5593 m)
Polish- British A. Zawada Climbed 2, 3 & 4.8.77
Climbed 1 & 2.8.77
Climbed 12.8.77
Climbed 13 & 14.8.77
Climbed 19.8.77
Climbed 9.8.77
Traversed
9 Ishmurg valley
a) Kohe Spartakadia (5080 m) (W. 380)
b) Pt. 5850 m (W. 351)
c) Kohe Dusti N. (6390 m) (W. 362.2)
d) Kohe Hevad $5843 m) (W. 353)
e) Kohe Dusti S. (6435 m) (W. 362)
f) Kohe Uparisina NE. (c. 6248 m) (W. 381.3)
Academic A. C., Krakow
g) Lunkho-i- Sharqi (c. 6600 m)
J. Maczka  
Climbed 28.7.77
Climbed 30.7.77
Climbed 2.8.77
Climbed 10.8.77
Climbed 11.8.77
Traverse via N. face and descent by NE. ridge 17-20.8.77
1st ascent 21.8.77
10 Kohe Hevad (6843 m) (W. 353) Krakow Expdn. K.Jaku bowski Attempted
11 Urgunte Bala valley
a) Kohe Awal (5800 m) (W. 281)
b) Kohe Koanen (5320 m) (W. 293B)
c) Pegish Zom I N. Pk. (6269 m) (W. 294)
d) Pegish Zom I S. Pk. (6080 m) (W. 294A)
Academic Sect, of Beskiden Guides of
Warsaw
E. Kuna Climbed 19 & 23.7.77
2nd ascent 22.7.77
Climbed 28 & 31.7.77
Climbed 28 & 31.7.77
12 Urgunte Bala valley
 
a) Kohe Awal (5800 m) (W. 281)
b) Pt. 5800 ra (near Kohe Awal)
c) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268)
d) Urgunt East (6920 m) (W. 265)
e) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269)
Academic
A.C. of Silesian
Univ. of Katowice
K. Malczyk  
 
Climbed 22 & 24.7.77
Climbed 24.7.77
Climbed 28 & 31.7.77
Climbed 1 8c 2.8.77
Climbed 7.8.77
13 Urgunte Bala valley
a) Kohe Awal (5800 m) (W. 281)
b) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269)
c) Kohe Dur (5100 m)
d) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268)
e) Shayoz Zom (6905 m) (W. 266)
f) Shoghordok Zom (6838 m) (W. 267)
Academic
A.C. of Poznan Expdn.
R. Tuliszka  
Climbed 21.7.77
Climbed
Climbed 27.7.77
Climbed 1 8c 8.8.77
Climbed 2.8.77
Climbed
14 Shakhaur (7116 m) Wroclaw Mountain Club J. Kulis Climbed by new routes via central buttress of NE. face (9-13.8.77) and by the NW. buttress of the NW. face (12-16.8.77)
15 a) W. 164
b) Kohe Nadir- shah (6814 m) (W. 137)
Polish Mountain Club,
Warsaw
P. Mlotecki Climbed 30.7.77
Climbed 8 & 9.8.77
16 a) Noshaq (7492 m) (W. 98)
b) Kharposhte Yakhi (5698 m) (W. 86)
Mountain Club of
Torun
W.
Szymanski
Climbed 12 & 18.8.77
Climbed 2.8.77
17 Yashek valley (H. K. Zebak) Pt. c 5400 m(WZ. 185) Univ. of Gdunsk K. Patelski Climbed 13.8.77
18 Munjan H. K. Suyengal valley
a) Kohe Saruke Sard (5728 m)
b) Kohe Morusg (6100 m)
c) Kohe Dosare Surengal N 5380 m)
d) Pt. 5550 m
Krakow Section of the Polish
Society of Earth
Sciences
J. Wala  
2nd ascent 21.7.77
Climbed 23.7.77
Climbed 28.7.77
Climbed 28.7.77
19 Suigal valley (Munjan)
a) Pt. 4800 m
b) Pt. 4267 in &
c) Pt. 4257 m
d) Pt. 5150 m
e) Pt. 5580 m
f) Kohe Morusg (6435 m)
g) Pt. c 5430 m
h) Pt. c 5000 m
i) Pt. 5200 m
j) Pt. 5000 m
Stoleczny Tatra Club PTTK of
Warsaw
S.Bratkows ki 1st ascent 15.7.77
Climbed on 16, 20 & 21.7.77
1st ascent 21.7.77
2nd ascent 22.7.77
Climbed 25 & 27.7.77
Climbed 25 & 27.7.77
1st ascent 28.7.77
Climbed 30.7.77
Climbed 1.8.77
20 Chapdara valley Szczecin Mountain
a).Pt. 4950 m Club Expdn.
b) Kohe Khwaja Shagwa (5585 m)
c) NW. Peak (5550 m)
d) SE, Peak (5585 m)
e) Pt. 5014 m
f) Pt. 5336 m
g) Pt. 5500 m
h) Pt. 5700 m
i) Pt. 5580 m
j) Pt. 5100 m
Szczecin Mountain Club Expdn. T. Rewaj  
 
1st ascent 15.7.77
 
Climbed on 16 & 17.7.77
 
1st ascent 17.7.77
1st ascent 22.7.77
1st ascent 23.7.77
1st ascent 28.7.77
1st ascent 28.7.77
1st ascent 30.7.77
21 Canigal (Parshui) Valley
a)Kohe Canigal (Parshui) (6010 m)
b)Pt. 5216 m
c)Pt. 5288 m
d)Pt. 5300 m
Academic Guide Section of Krakow M.Radwans ki  
 
Climbed 12.8.77
2nd ascent 13.8.77
1st ascent 14.8.77
Traverse from S. to N. 13.8.77
22 Achla valley
a)Kohe Du-Sikh (5405 m)
b)Poshtai-i-Tez (c 4648 m)
Krakow Section of the Polish Society of Earth Sciences J. Wala 1st ascent 9.7.77
Climbed 10 & 11.7.77
23 Mir Samir group Pt. c 5100 m (SW. of Mir Samir) Polish W. Paszyn-ski and K. Spyrka Climbed 29.9.77
24 Khwaja Mohammed region- Piw valley
a)Kohe Rakhoy-i- Shamali (5517 m) (W. 13)
b) Pt. 5320 m (W.13')
c) W. 13
d) W. 13A
e) Blandkonj (5330 m) (W. 11)
f) Kolla-i-Qandi (W. 15)
g) Kohe Shaker Ab (W. 16)
h) Kohe Mashkashoy (W. 9)
Silesian Academic H. K. Expdn. M. Mal- kowski  
Climbed
Climbed 26.7.77
Climbed 27.7.77
Climbed 29.7.77
Climbed 28 & 31.7.77
31.7.77 Climbed
Climbed 2.8.77
Climbed 2.8.77
25 Ledjdi and Parkhor valleys Qolla-i-Nazar (c 4900 m) Polish   1st ascent 23.9.77
26 Salang region
a) Kohe Tobatay (4790 m) (S 14)
b) Pt. C 4700 s. and N. Pks.
Krakow Expdn. (see 18 - and 22) J. Wala  
2nd ascent 29.6.77
Climbed 28.6.77
27 Salang region Khenjan valley
a) Pt 4516 m (S 7)
b) Pt. 4430 m (on the summit ridge of Pt. 4516)
c) Pt. 4200 m
Warsaw Expdn. (see 19) S. Bratkowski  
Climbed 27.6.77
Climbed 27.6.77
Climbed 28.6.77
28 Mandaras valley M7 (6284 m) (W. 132) Spanish R. Vila Climbed 6.8.77 via
NW. part of the W. face
29 a) Noshaq Polish (7492 m) (W. 98)
b) Gumbaz-e- Safed (6800 m) (W. 121)
c) Aspe Syah (6350 m)
d) Aspe Safed (6450 m) (W. -77)
e) Kharposht-e- Yakhi (5698 m) (W. 86)
f) Gumbaz-e- Safed (6800 m) (W. 121)
Polish Z. Breslin Climbed 8, 19 & 20.8.77
Climbed 15.8.77 by couloir on S. face
Climbed 19.8.77 by S. face
Climbed 20.8.77
Climbed
Climbed by W. ridge
30 Noshaq (7492 m) (W. 98) Czech solo Ms D. Ster bova Climbed 6-14.8.77
31 Noshaq (7492 m) (W. 98) Spanish E. Font Climbed 9 & 11.8.77
32 Shyorpalas valley - Zebak Kohe Sakht (5780 m) (WZ 57) French J. Gaillard 1st ascent 10, 12 & 14.8.77
33 a) Rakhe Kuchek (5243 m)
b) Kharpasht-e-Yakhi (5698 m)(W. 86) Zebak region
c) Kohe Sakht (5780 m) WZ 57)
d) Kohe Zard (5810 m) (WZ 16)
Oxford Univ. M. C. S. Venables Climbed by N. face
Climbed
2nd ascent
2nd ascent
34 Qalat valley- Zebak
a) Pt. 5070 m(WZ 70)
b) Pt. 5060 m (WZ 71)
c) Kohe Qalat (5400 m) (WZ 75)
d) Pt. 5600 m (WZ 89)
e) Pt. 5045 m (WZ 99)
g) Kalisa-i-Sangi (5640 m)(WZ 100)
h) Sare Kalan (5650 m) (WZ 92)
Manchester Univ. R. Eastwood  
Climbed 30.7.77
Climbed 30.7.77
Climbed 6.8.77
Climbed 6.8.77
Climbed 6.8.77
Climbed 11.8.77
Climbed 17.8.77
35 Kohe Bandaka Sakhi (6414 m) Spanish E. Martin Attempted
36 Kohe Bandaka (6843 m) French B. Gorgeon Attempted
37 Khwaja Mohainmed range Pt. 5578 m Japanese T. Sakahara Climbed 5 & 6.8.78
KZ 83, 85 and 86 from the north and showing the routes of attempts on KZ 83 and 86.

64. KZ 83, 85 and 86 from the north and showing the routes of attempts on KZ 83 and 86. Note page 305. Photo: Ian Grace

KZ 75 from NW. (from K 100) shpwing route of ascent. The descent was made via gullies of the south face. B = Bivouac.

65. KZ 75 from NW. (from K 100) shpwing route of ascent. The descent was made via gullies of the south face. B = Bivouac. Note page 305. Photo: Richard Eastwood

 

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