Himalayan Journal vol.35
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.35

Publication year:
1979

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. THE STORY OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB, 1928-1978
    (JOHN MARTYN)
  3. FIFTY YEARS RETROSPECT AND PROSPECT
    (TREVOR BRAHAM)
  4. THE PASSANRAM AND TALUNG VALLEYS, SIKKIM
    (DR EUGEN ALLWEIN)
  5. NANDA DEVI AND THE SOURCES OF THE GANGES
    (H. W. TILMAN)
  6. THE MOUNT EVEREST RECONNAISSANCE, 1935
    (ERIC SHIPTON)
  7. THE SHAKSGAM EXPEDITION, 1937
    (MICHAEL SPENDER)
  8. GANGOTRI TRIANGULATION
    (Major GORDON OSMASTON)
  9. EVEREST, 1976
    (MAJOR M. W. H. DAY, R.E.)
  10. LHOTSE, 1976
    (KANJI KAMEI)
  11. THE SECOND ASCENT OF LHOTSE, 1977
    (DR HERMANN WARTH)
  12. MAKALU, 1976
    (ANDERS BOUNDER & OTHERS)
  13. THE CLEAN-UP TREK, 1976
    (MICHAEL CORDELL)
  14. THE THIRD KOREAN MANASLU EXPEDITION, 1976
    (JUNG SUP KIM)
  15. THE HONGKONG KANJIROBA EXPEDITION, 1976
    (DICK ISHERWOOD)
  16. AVALANCHE ON SISNE, 1977
    (R. A. L. ANDERSON)
  17. DHAULAGIRI IV, 1975
    (KUNIAKI YAGIHARA)
  18. NORTH SIKKIM, 1976
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  19. NANDA DEVI FROM THE NORTH, 1976
    (H. ADAMS CARTER)
  20. NANDA DEVI SANCTUARY - A NATURALIST'S REPORT
    (LAVKUMAR KHACHER)
  21. A BOTANICAL SURVEY IN THE NANDA DEVI SANCTUARY, 1974
    (N. C. SHAH)
  22. AN ATTEMPT ON NITALTHAUR, 1974
    (MANIK BANERJEE)
  23. CHAMRAO GLACIER EXPEDITION-1977
    (M. DEY)
  24. CHIRING WE, 1977
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  25. KINNAUR-1976
    (LIEUTENANT-COLONEL BALWANT SANDHU)
  26. BLACK PEAK, 1976
    (MANDIP SINGH SOIN)
  27. NILAMBAR EXPEDITION, 1977
    (RANVIR SINGH)
  28. POLISH K2 EXPEDITION, 1976
    (JANUSZ KURCZAB)
  29. A CRAWL DOWN THE OGRE
    (DOUG SCOTT)
  30. ISTOR-O-NAL NORTH I, 1976
    (RONALD NAAR)
  31. THE ASCENT OF SHERPI KANGRP 1976
    (PROF. KAZUMASA HIRAI)
  32. AFGHAN DARWAZ, 1975
    (RYSSZARD W. SCHRAMM)
  33. SWISS THUI EXPEDITION, 1975
    (DR ADOLF DIEMBERGER and HANS SCHIBLI)
  34. CLIMBING SHERPAS OF DARJEELING
    (DORJEE LHATOO)
  35. OF MOUNTAINS & MEMORIES
    (SITU MULLICK)
  36. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  37. OBITUARIES
  38. BOOK REVIEWS
  39. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  40. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1976
  41. EXPEDITIONS 1975-1977

EXPEDITIONS 1975-1977

Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks

EXPEDITIONS 1975

GARHWAL
Kalanka

(22,740 ft - 6931 m)
Kamiichi

Hoso-Kai

Expdn.
I. Tanabe 1st ascent 3.6.75

KARAKORAM
Skyang Kangri (24,750 ft- 7544 m)

Austrian F.Deutschmann Attempted

Note : The bulk of the 1975 Expeditions have been listed in H.J., Volume XXXIV. 1974-75.

EXPEDITIONS 1976

NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
1 Everest

(29,028 ft - 8848 m)
Jt. British- Nepalese Army Mtng. Expdn. Lt. Col.

Tony

Streather
Climbed via South Col 16.5.76
2 Lhotse

(27,293 ft-8511 m)
Kanagawa

Alpine

Assoc.
K. Kamei Attempted
3 Makalu

(27,824 ft - 8481 m)
Combined Spanish and Czech Expdn. J. M. Montfort

(Sp)

I. Galfy (Cz)
5th ascent 24.5.76

by SE. ridge (Sp) . and SW. buttress (Czech)
4 Jannu

(25,294 ft - 7710 m)
Sangaku Doshikai Jannu Expdn. M. Konishi Climbed by N. face 11, 12, 13 and 14.5.76

(1st ascent by N. face
5 Dhaulagiri I

(26,795 ft - 8167 m)
Italian A.C. R. de Bertolis 4th ascent 4.5.76
6 Annapurna IV (24,688 ft - 7525 m) German P. Schubert Climbed from the South 18.5.76
7 Glacier Dome (23,191 ft - 7063 m) Austro- German R. Messner Attempted
8 Lam Jung Himal (22,921 ft-6986 m) Kochi Him. Expdn. S. Kunisawu Climbed

28, 29 and 30.4.76
9 Gurja Himal (23,599 ft-7193 m) Alsace A.C. P. Ertlen Climbed 5.5.76
10 Manaslu

(26,760 ft - 8156 m)
Third Korean

Manaslu Expdn.
Jung Sup Kim Attempted
NEPAL (Post-Monsoon)

11 Everest

(29,028 ft - 8848 m)
American Bicentennial

Everest Expdn.
P. Trimble Climbed via South Col. 8.10.76
12 Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (25,066 ft-7640 m) Seppyo A.C. Y. Shuji Climbed 13.10.76
13 Manaslu(26,760 ft-8156 m) Iran-Japanese Expdn. Brig. Gen. M. Khakbiz and

N. Tamura
Climbed 12.10.76 via E. face
14 Kanjiroba Main Peak

(22,580 ft-6882 m)
Hong Kong Kanjiroba

Expdn.
R. Isherwood Climbed 16.10.76
15 Annapurna South Peak (23,683 ft-7219 m) Hong Kong Annapurna S. Pk. Expdn. Capt. P. C, Cooper Climbed 3.11.76 via E. face
16 Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 ft-7246 m) Jap. Rock Climbing Socy. (J. A.C.) K. Shindo Attempted
17 Tukche

(22,703 ft - 6920 m)
Nepal Police

Mtng.

Expdn.
Suptd.

G. Shrestha
Climbed

2.10.76

GARHWAL
1 Nanda Devi

(25,645 ft-7817 m)
Indo- Japanese K. Kano, Jagjit Singh 1st Traverse of both peaks. East climbed on 3.6.76 Traverse 13-15.6.78. Main climbed on 15.6.76
2 Changabang

(22,520 ft-6864 m)
Japanese N. Toda 2nd ascent 13.6.76, via SW ridge
3 (a)Changabang (22,520 ft. -6864 m)

(b)Sakram(20.520 ft. -

6254 m)
British C. Read 3rd ascent 2.10.76 via SE. face

Climbed
4 Changabang

(22,52:0 ft-6864 m)
British

pair
J, Tasker and P. Boardman 4th ascent 15.10.76 by a direct line on W. face
5 Pt. 21,500 ft

(6553 m) between the Ghangabang and Uttari Rishi glaciers,
British Solo P. Burgess Climbed 4.6.76
6 (a) Kalanka (22,740 ft- 6931 m Italian C. Rabbi

Attempted
(b) Pt. 20,300 ft (6137 m) on ridge between Ghangabang and Rishi Kot
Climbed 18.10.76
7 (a) Devistan I : (21, 910 ft- 6678 m) American D. J. Graber Climbed 4.6.76 via E. face, repeated 5.6.76.
(b) Devistan II (21.420 ft- 6529 m) Climbed 4.6.76 from the east and descent via SW. ridge
8 Mrigthuni

(22,490 ft-6855 m)
German Dr H. Meck Climbed 5.10.76 via E. ridge and over the E. summit to the Main Pk.
9 (a) Maiktoli

(22,320 ft- 6803 m)
Japan

Workers'

Alpine

Fed.
K. Kondo Climbed 12 & 13.10.76
(b)Devtoli(22.270 ft- 6788 m) 12.10.76

Traverse between the two peaks 12-13.10.76
10 Dimagiri (23,184 ft-7066 m) Japanese Dr A.Makinouchi Climbed 21 & 24.10.76
11 Dunagiri (23,184 ft-7066 m) American G.Stephenson Attempted
12 Dunagiri

(23,184 ft-7066 m)
Japanese M. Kaga Attempted
13 Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) Yugoslavian T. Sazonov Climbed 15 & 16.5.76
14 Trisul

(23,360 ft-7120 m)
Indian Lt. Col. N. Kumar Climbed 17.5.76 and skied down from summit to B.C.
15 Trisul

(23,360 ft-7120 m)
German S. Hup- fauer Climbed 2& 6.10.76
16 Bethartoli S. (20,730 ft-6318 m) Australian R. Ryan Climbed
17 Abi Gamin (24,130 ft-7355 m) Indo- Japanese Women's Expdn. II DrM. Agrawal Climbed 18.6.76 Attempted Kamet
18 Chaukhamba I (23,420 ft-7138 m) Indian P. Chow- dhury Climbed 6.10.76
19 Jogin III (20,065 ft-6116 m) Indian Capt. J. Bahuguna Climbed 5.10.76. Jogin I

attempted
20 Gangotri I (21,890 ft-6672 m) Indian ------ Climbed 10.6.76
21 Rudugaira (19,090 ft-5819 m) Indian student teams ------ Climbed by Doon School in June and Univ. of Roorkee in July.

KULU -LAHUL
1 Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft-6446 m) Japanese H. Takemato Attempted
2 Fluted Peak (Spiti)

(20,200 ft-6157 m)
Climbers' Group, W. Bengal Climbed 27.8.76
3 M5

(20,998 ft-6400 m)
American D. Young Attempted
4 Mulkila (M4) (21,380 ft.-6517 m) Ryohou Club Japan T. Oshi 3rd ascent 16.9.76

KASHMIR - KISHTWAR
1 a) Sher Khan (19,324 ft- 5890 m) Univ. of St. Andrews, Scotland J. Cant Climbed 16.7.76
b) Taragiri (c. 17,700 ft- 5395 m) Climbed 29.6.76
c) Sundar Pahar 08.330 ft- 5587 m Climbed 8.6.76
d) Arjuna (20 440 ft- 6230 m) Attempted
2 Katori (20,142 ft-6138 m) British pair C. Bonington Attempted
3 Cathedral (17,619 ft 5370 m) Loughborough Univ. M. C. A.Judkowski Attempted
4 a) Barnaj II(20.637 ft- 6290 m) Japanese Alpine Instrument

Technique Club
Attempted
b) Pt. 5130 m (16 832 ft) Climbed 13.10.76
5 Nun (23,410 ft- 7135 m) Czech F. Cejka Climbed 27 & 28.10.76
6 Nnn (23,410 ft- 7135 m) Swiss S. Saudan Attempted
7 a) Kim (23,250 ft- 7087 m")

b) WhiteNeedle (21.510 ft- 6556 m)
Swiss ---- Climbed 31.8.76

Climbed 26.8.76
8 a) Pt. 6550 m (21,491 ft Tokyo Univ. A. C. K. Otaki Climbed 17.9.76
b) Pt. 6560 m (21,523 ft) (both in Doda valley) Climbed 19 & 20.9.76
9 Kanglacha (stok Kangri) (20,723 ft-6316 m) Southampton Univ. S. Fraser Climbed by E. face
10 Sickle Moon (21,569 ft-6574 m) Japanese K. Ohtaki Attempted
11 Pt. 6550 m 21,491 ft. (Doda valley-Zanskar range) Japanese K. Ohtaki Climbed both W. and E. Peaks 17, 19 and 20.9.76
12 Haramukh E. (16,870 ft-5142 m) Japanese M. Ando Climbed
KARAKORAM
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1 K2 (28,250 ft 8610 m) Klub Wyso- kogorski J. Kurczab Attempted NE. ridge
2 Skyang Kangri (24,750 ft-7544 m) Gakushuin Univ. A.C. G. Mitsui 1st ascent 11.8.76 by E. ridge
3 Trango Tower (Nameless Tower) (20,530 ft-6257 m) British A.C.G. Climbed , 8 & 9.7.76
4 Broad Peak (26,400 ft-8047 m) French Y. Seigneur Attempted
5 Hidden Peak (26,470 ft-8068 m) French L. Audouber Attempted
6 Masherbrum (25,660 ft-7821 m) Japanese H. Miyashita Attempted
7 BaltoroKangri (23,990 ft-7312 m) Japanese T. Akiyatna 1st ascent 7.7.76
8 Gasherbrum II (26,360 ft-8035 m) Japanese H. Aoki Attempted
9 Mustagh Tower (23,680 ft-7273 m) Japanese R. Ichihashi Attempted

10
Saltoro Kangri II (25,279 ft-7705 m) German G. Schulz Attempted

11
Singhi Kangri (23,628 ft-7202 m) Tohoku Univ. H.Sato 1st ascent 8 & 9.7.76

12
Apsaras

(23,770 ft-7245 m)
Osaka Univ. M.C. H. Misawa 1st ascent 7.7.76

by S. ridge

13
Sherpi Kangri (24,212 ft-7380 m) Kobe Univ. K. Hirai 1st ascent 10.7.76
14 K7

22,754 ft- 6935 m)
Japanese Y. Narisue Attempted

15
Gharkun

(21,720 ft-6620 m)
Iida M.C. H. Sugiyama Attempted Climbed the S. peak (6500 m) on 29 and 31.7.76
16 Latok I (23,442 ft-7145 m) Shensu A.C. Y. Miyahira Attempted
17 a) Ganchen Pk.

(21,200 ft- 6462 m)

b) Sosbun Brakk (21,040 ft- 6413 m)
German R. Wagner Attempted

Attempted
18 Baintha Brakk (Ogre) (23,900 ft- 7285 m) Japanese T. Nishihara Attempted
19 Batura Mustagh I

(25,540 ft-7785 m)
German DR A. Schlee Climbed 30.6.76
20 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Fukuoka Univ. H. Kato Attempted, Diamir Face
21 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Austrian --- 5th ascent 11.8.76 via SW. ridge
22 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Austrian- German- Polish Expdn. M. Gradnitter and W. Rutkiewicz Attempted via S. Face (Rupal valley)
23 Phuparash

(22,390 ft-6824 m)
Italian Attempted
HINDU KUSH
1 Tirich Mir (7706 m) Swiss German- Austrian H. Von Kanel

Climbed 25.7.76
2 Tirich Mil- West IV (7338 m) Spanish

B. Mancebo Climbed 23.8.76 via SW. face
3 a) Ghul Lasht Zom East Pk. (6611 m) Dutch

R. von Maastricht

Climbed 19, 20 & 21.7.76

b) Dertona Peak (6100 m) Attempted

2nd ascent

6, 7 & 8.8.7
c) c) Istor-o-Nal North (7373 m)
4 a) Kohe Keshni-khan (6755 m)

Polish

R. Szafirski

Climbed4.7.76

via N. face

Also traverse

E-W 3-6.7.76
b) Kohe Wark (6104 m) Climbed

27.6.76
c) Kohe Qalat (5508 m) Climbed

27.6.76
d) Kohe Hawar (6183 m) Climbed

27.6.76 via

S. face
e)Shakhaur (7116 m) 3rd ascent

12.7.76
f) Noshaq(7492 m) via central

pillar of

N. buttress

g) Darban Zom (7219 m)
Climbed

22.7.76

2nd ascent
5 Kohe Keshni- khan

(6755 m)
Polish R. Krawczyk

11-14.8.76 via SE. ridge
6 a) Noshaq (7492 m)

b)Shingeik Zom (7291)
Polish K. Olech Climbed

Climbed
c)Darban Zom (7219 m) Climbed
7 Shakhaur (7116 m) Spanish J. Garreta Climbed 25 & 28.7.76 via NE. ridge
8 Shakhaur (7116 m) Spanish A. Arias Climbed 4.7.76 via N. spur
9 a) Kohe Galati

b) Kohe Benam

c)Langar Zom N. Pk (6750 m) (W. 189) (Putz 7050 m)

Regensburg H. K.Expdn. A. Putz All peaks

climbed during

the full traverse of theN. Ridge

of Langer

up to its north

ernmost summit21.24.8.76
10 a) Langar Zom . Pk (6750 m) (W. 189)

b)Langar Zom Main (7070 m) (W. 190)

c)Langar Zom S. Pk (6850 m) (W. 191)

d)Langar Zom Hind (or SE. Pk) (7061 m) (W. 192)
Polish

R. Koziol

Traversed and climbed all peaks 14.18.8.76
e)Pt. 6760 m (south of Langar Zom S.) Climbed 1.8.76
11 a) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268) Polish T. Kozubek Climbed 18.8.76
b) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269)
Climbed 1.8.76
12 a) Kohe QalaPanja (6328m (W. 388) Polish M.Dabrowsi 3rd ascent

19.8.76
b) Pt. 5340 m (W. 394) Climbed

6.8.76
c) Pt. 5434 m 1st ascent

6,8.76
d) Pt. 5759 m (W. 391) Climbed

12.8.76
e) Pt. 6007 m (W. 402) 1st ascent

21.8.76
13 Eshan valley

Polish

B. Mac

a)Pt. 5250 m Climbed 23.8.76
b)Pt. 5695 m Climbed 31.8.76
c)Pt. 5890 m Climbed 31.8.76
d)Pt. 5565 m Climbed 9.9.76
e)Kohe Laskhor 2ndascent

24.8.76

14
Suigal valley

a)Kohe Askival (5870 m)

British J. L. Biggs
Climbed 8 & 9.8.76
b)Pt. 5386 m
c)KoheAinshval (5626 m)

d)Kohe Morusg (6435 m)
Climbed

22 & 23.8.76 Attempted
15 Agram H. K. Khorbe valley

a) Kohe Chap- kotala (5770 m) (WA 205

Polish
A. Lach
1st ascent
b) Pt. 5580 m (WA. 192) 1st ascent
c) Pt. 5454 m (WA. 208) 1st ascent
d) Pt. 5440 m (WA. 181) 1st ascent
e) Pt. 5443 m (WA. 212) 1st ascent
f)Pt.5420 m(WA. 211) 1st ascent
g) Pt. 5390 m (WA. 182) 1st ascent
h) Pt. 5260 m (WA. 179) 1st ascent

i) Pt. 5250 m (WA. 178)
1st ascent
16 a)KoheBandaka S. (6843 m)

b)KoheBandaka Sakhi (6414 m)

c)Pt.6044 m between Bandaka and Bandaka Sakhi
Polish J.Jaworski Climbed 7-10.8.76 via new route from the east.

Climbed via SE. ridge

2nd ascent

17 Kohe Haftnaw (4921 m) Spanish M. A. Torre Climbed
18 Noshaq (7492 m) Spanish Climbed 25.8.76
19 a) Noshaq (7429 m)

Yugoslavian Climbed
b) Gumbaze Safed(6800 m)(W 121) Attempted
Note : WA refers to numbers given by J. Wala on his map 'Agram H.K.'

EXPEDITIONS 1977

NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
1 Everest (29,028 ft-8848 m) New Zealand Everest Expdn. K. Woodford Attempted
2 Lhotse (27,293 ft-8511 m) Swabian Himalayan

Expdn.
Dr G.

Schmatz
Climbed ''2nd ascent) 8 9 & 11-5-77
3 Nuptse(25,726 ft-7841 m) Japanese Tohokei rukai team H. Kato Attempted

by NW. ridge and climbed the NW.summit

(7745 m) 11-5-77.
4 Makalu

(27,824 ft-8481 m)
American J. Roskelly and

J. Long
W. face
5 Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (25,066 ft-7640 m) Chiba Univ. H.Yoshinaga Attempted NW. ridge
6 Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft-8167 m) West

German

Italian
R. Messner Attempted S. face
7 (26,760 ft-8156 m) West

German
G. Lenser Attempted NE. ridge
8 Himalchuli(25,895 ft-7893 m) Meiji Univ. T. Sugasawa Attempted E. ridge
9 Churen Himal (24,184- ft-7371 m) Kawasaki A.C. K. Sato Attempted from north
10 Kangchunne (in Kanjiroba Himal) (21,139 ft-6443 m) Osaka A.C. K. Mizu- tani Attempted
11 Sisne Himal (Kanjiroba region) (22,688 ft-6915 m) British Capt. R.A.L.

Anderson
Attempted


NEPAL (Post-Monsoon)
12 Everest (29,028 ft8848 m) Korean

Young Do Kim

Climbed 15.9.77

13 Pumor (23,442 ft-7145 m) First

Canadian

Himalayan

Expdn.
I. Rowe Climbed 7.10.77

by SW. ridge
14 Dhaulagiri I

(26,795 ft-8167 m)
Japan Kansai Expdn. Dr Y. Tsu- kazaki Attempted Via. South buttress of W. face
15 Annapurna I (26,545 ft-8091 m) Royal

Netherland

A.C.
X. Varrijn- Stuart Climbed 13.10.77
16 Annapurna III (24,787 ft-7555 m) Italian F. Santon Climbed 23 & 25.10.77 by W. ridge
17 Manaslu

(26,760 ft-8156 m)
French J. Frehel Attempted via E. ridge
18 Rokapi (south Nampa)

(22,447 ft-6842 m)
Northumbria

Himalaya

Expdn.
R. Godfrey Climbed 10.10.77 via SW. ridge
GARHWAL
1 Nanda Devi

(25,645 ft-7817 m)
British E. Roberts Climbed 21 and 22.6.77 via 1936 route
2 Nanda Devi (25,645 ft-7817 m) Indo-

Japanese
T. Morita Attempted via American route of 1976
3 Bamba Dhura (20,778 ft-6334 m) Himalayan

Assoc.

Calcutta
M. Banerjee Climbed 5.10.77
4 Kalanka

(22,740 ft-6931 m)
Czech A.C. Liaz Jablonec and Nisou F. Grunt 2nd ascent 20.9.77

(first via the N. face)
5 Changabang (22,520 ft-6864 m) Australian G. Mathew Attempted
6 Rishi Kot

(20,460 ft-6236 m)
British M. Gledhill Climbed 21.9.77 also climbed Pt. 19,730 ft. NE. along the ridge from Rishi Kot
7 NandaGhunti(20,700 ft-6309 m) Indian - Climbed 2.10.77
8 Mrigthuni (22,490 ft 6855 m) Giri Doot

Ladies Expdn.
- Climbed 24.9.77
9 Nar Parbat (19,210 ft-5855 m) Indo-N.Z.

Ocean-to-Sky Expdn.
Sir E. Hillary Climbed 17.10.77
10 Maiktoli (22,320 ft-6803 m) Japanese H. Fukuriki Climbed 29 and 31.5.77 and 1.6.77 via S. ridge
11 Bethartoli Himal (20,840 ft-6352 m) Italian R. Moro 1st ascent via the N. ridge
12 Bethartoli South (20,730 ft-6318 m) American L. Jerstad Climbed
13 Dunagiri

(23,184 ft-7066 m)
Japanese Y. Ohga Attempted via E. ridge
14 Tharkot

(20,010 ft-6099 m)
Japanese M. Hagra Climbed 4, 5and6.10.77 Also climbed Banoti (5645 m)
15 Tharkot

(20,010 ft-6099 m)
Bombay

Ladies

team
L. Patel Attempted
16 Kamet (25,447 ft-7756 m) I.M.F.

Ladies Expdn.
M. Agrawal Climbed 14.6.77
17 Chiring We (21,520 ft-6559 m) The Mountaineers, Bombay Harish Kapadia Attempted. Climbed Pt. 18,372 it
18 Rataban(20,100 ft-6166 m) NCC Ladies Expdn. S. Kanta Climbed 28.8.77
19 Jaonli(21,760 ft-6632 m) Army

Artillery

Expdn.
Maj. D. K. Khuller Climbed
20 Banderpunch

(19,814 ft-6045 m)
team D. K. Sarkar Climbed 24.9.77
21 Koteshwar (19,800 ft-6035 m) I.I.T.

Bombay
S. Kulkarni Climbed 23.5.77
22 Thelu

(19,696 ft-6003 m)
Bengal team ---- Climbed 8.6.77
KULU - LAHUL- SPITI
1 Pt. 20,570 ft

(Karcha Nal, Spiti)
Irish

Himalayan Expedition
M.C. Curran 1st ascent 19.9.77
2 a)Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft- 6446 m)

b)Pt. 20,300 ft (Devachen)

c)Papsura (21,165 ft- 6451 m)

d)Angdu Ri (19,500 ft- 5944 m)
North of England Himalayan Expdn. P. Bean Climbed

28.5.77 via SW. ridge

First ascent 26.5.77

Climbed 1.6.77 via SW. ridge

Climbed
3 Upper Tos glacier
a) Pt. c 18,000 ft
Univ. of Bristol Mtng. Club C. Owen
First ascent 9.6.77 via W. face
b) Pt. 19,800 ft Pt. First ascent12.6.77 via S. ridge
c) 17,600 ft First ascent 2.6.77
d) Pt. 17,820 ft First ascent 2.6.77
e) Pt. 19,800 ft (middle of the

3 peaks between Dharmsura and Rinz- ing)
First ascent 30.5.77
f) Pt. 17,650 ft (first peak that runs south-west from Roberts Pk.) First ascent 23.5.77
4 CB 49 (18,685 ft- 5695 m) W.H.M.I. Manali R. Singh Climbed 17.7.77
5 Fluted Pk. (Lohsar Nal") (20,200 ft-6157 m) Climbers Grp. Serampore S. Ghosh Climbed 27.8.77
6 Muker Beh

(19,910 ft-6069 m)
Explorers & Adventurers, Bombay M.S.

Shankaran
Attempted

KASHMIR - KISHTWAR - LADAKH
1 Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) Mountain

Travel,

America
G. Rowell 5th ascent 18 and 20.6.77
2 Nun

(23,410 ft-7135 m)
Swiss S. Saudan 6th ascent 26.6.77 Saudan skied down from the summit to B.C.
3 Nun

(23,410 ft-7135 m)
Italian S. Martini 7th ascent 19.8.77
4 Nun

(23,410 ft-7135 m)
Army School Expedition -- 8 th ascent 16.9.77
5 Nun

(23,410 ft-7135 m)
Austrian E. Vanis Attempted
6 Nun

(23,410 ft-7135 m)
West German E. Rubel Attempted
7 Kun

(23,250 ft-7087 m)
Small team H. Schell Climbed
8 a) Kun (23,250 ft-

7087m)

7087
Hauser International G. Hauser Climbed 19.8 and 2.9.77
b) Pt. 20,670 ft- 6300 m) (above Phirtse Pass) Climbed
9 a) Eiger

b) Cathedral

(17,619 ft- 5370 m)
Irish

Mtng. Club
C. Torrarrs Attempted

Attempted
10 a) Pt. 20,970 ft- (6392 m)

(Kiar Nal)
Carlisle Mtng. Club S. Hepburn First ascent 7.10.77
b) Sickle Moon (21,569 ft 6574 m) Attempted
11 Barnaj II

(20,637 ft-6290 m)
Japanese N. Kubo Attempted; climbed Pts. 6150 m and 6170 m South' of Barnaj II
12 Barnaj II

(20,637 ft-6290 m)
British P. Nunn Attempted
13 Gharol

(19,889 ft-6062 m)
Army Signals

Expdn.
Maj. A. G. Roy Climbed
14 a) 78 (19,850 ft- 6050 m) Italian G. Buscaini 1st ascent 26.7.77
b)72(20,260 ft- 6175 m) 1st ascent 31.7.77
15 Leh Pk.

(19,981 ft-6090 m)
Italian S. Billoro Climbed, along with 3 other five-thousanders
KARAKORAM
1 K2 (28,250 ft-

8610 m)
Japanese I. Yoshizawa 2nd ascent 8 & 9.8.77
2 Broad Peak

(26,400 ft-8047 m)
Japanese M. Yuazua 2nd ascent 8.8.77
3 Gasherbrum I

(26,470 ft-8068 m)
Yugoslavian J. Loncar Climbed

8.7.77
4 Biale

(21,071 ft-6422 m)
Japanese M. Aoki 1st ascent 22 & 24.7.77
5 Latok II

(23,461 ft-7151 m)
British D. Morrison Attempted
6 Latok II

(23,461 ft-7151 m)
Italian A. Berga- maschi Climbed 28.7.77 Also chmbed 15 other five- thousanders
Note: These are revised heights, after the recent survey by the Italian party. The original height of Latok II is 7108 m. The above revised he'orht of Latok II is greater than the original height of Latok I ! -Ed
7 Tahu Rutum (21,822 ft-6651 m) Mtng,

Federation of Osaka
N.Kuwabara 1st ascent 13 & 14.7.77
8 Kamnire Dior(23,433 ft-7142 m) German- Austrian D. Class Attempted
9 K7 (22,754 ft- 6935 m) Japanese H. Ishikawa Attempted
10. a)Mt.Ghent NE. (24,089 ft - 7342 m) O. A. V. W. Axt 1st ascent 28.6.77
b) Depak (23 459 ft- 7150 m) 2nd 26.6.77
c) Pt 6650 m 1st ascent 11.7.77
d)Chogron Kangri (22,474 ft- 6850 m) 1st ascent 14.7.77
e)SiaLaKangri(20,177 ft- 6150 m) 1st ascent 15.7.77
11 Batura I

(25,540 ft-7785 m)
Japanese S. Kono Attempted
12 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) American J. M. Hell- man Attempted
13 Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) Polish A. Zyzak Attempted
14 Phuparash Central (22,262 ft-6785 m) Charlotte Mason College Expdn. R. Rutland Climbed 18.8.77
15 Pt. c 7000 m

(about 3 km SW, of Chogolisa)
Japanese H. Akiyama 1st ascent 14 & 22.7.77 ("Pruppoo Burkh" named by the Japs has been accepted by the Pak authorities)
16 Trango Tower (main summit) (20,530 ft-6257 m) American G. Rowell 1st ascent of the main summit June 1977

HINDU KUSH
1 Saraghrar

(7349 m)
Spanish R. Bramona Rams Attempted
2 Tirich Mir West IV (7338 m) Italian T. Vidoni Climbed 21 & 22.7.77 by SW. face
3 Tirich North I (6732 m) Swiss J-J. Asper Attempted
4 Istor-o-Nal NE. (7276 m) Nagoya Keiryo Club H. Hikota Attempted
5 Garmush (6244m) Doshisha Univ. T. Matsumura Climbed 26 & 27.8.77
6 Udren Zom Central (7080 m) Japanese K. Hirai 1st ascent 10.8.77
7 Urgunte Bala valley

a) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268)
Czech M.Neumann
Climbed 28.6; 1.7 & 9.7.77
b) Pt. 5800 m (next to Kohe Awal) Climbed 2.7.77
c) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269) Climbed 5, 6 & 7.7.77
d) Kohe Tez (7015 m)
Traverse on 8 &9.7.77 11.7.77
e) Shoghordok Zom (6838 m) (W. 267)