EXPEDITIONS 1975-1977
Mountain | Expedition | Leader | Remarks |
EXPEDITIONS 1975 GARHWAL |
|||
Kalanka (22,740 ft - 6931 m) | Kamiichi Hoso-Kai Expdn. | I. Tanabe | 1st ascent 3.6.75 |
KARAKORAM | |||
Skyang Kangri (24,750 ft- 7544 m) | Austrian | F.Deutschmann | Attempted |
Note : The bulk of the 1975 Expeditions have been listed in H.J., Volume XXXIV. 1974- 75.
EXPEDITIONS 1976
NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
Mountain | Expedition | Leader | Remarks | |
1 | Everest (29,028 ft - 8848 m) |
Jt. British- Nepalese Army Mtng. Expdn. | Lt. Col. Tony Streather | Climbed via South Col 16.5.76 |
2 | Lhotse (27,293 ft-8511 m) |
Kanagawa Alpine Assoc. | K. Kamei | Attempted |
3 | Makalu (27,824 ft - 8481 m) |
Combined Spanish and Czech Expdn. | J. M. Montfort (Sp) I. Galfy (Cz) |
5th ascent 24.5.76 by SE. ridge (Sp) . and SW. buttress (Czech) |
4 | Jannu (25,294 ft - 7710 m) |
Sangaku Doshikai Jannu Expdn. | M. Konishi | Climbed by N. face 11, 12, 13 and 14.5.76 (1st ascent by N. face |
5 | Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft - 8167 m) |
Italian A.C. | R. de Bertolis | 4th ascent 4.5.76 |
6 | Annapurna IV (24,688 ft - 7525 m) |
German | P. Schubert | Climbed from the South 18.5.76 |
7 | Glacier Dome (23,191 ft - 7063 m) | Austro- German | R. Messner | Attempted |
8 | Lam Jung Himal (22,921 ft-6986 m) | Kochi Him. Expdn. | S. Kunisawu | Climbed 28, 29 and 30.4.76 |
9 | Gurja Himal (23,599 ft-7193 m) | Alsace A.C. | P. Ertlen | Climbed 5.5.76 |
10 | Manaslu (26,760 ft - 8156 m) |
Third Korean Manaslu Expdn. | Jung Sup Kim | Attempted |
NEPAL (Post-Monsoon) | ||||
11 | Everest (29,028 ft - 8848 m) |
American Bicentennial Everest Expdn. | P. Trimble | Climbed via South Col. 8.10.76 |
12 | Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (25,066 ft-7640 m) |
Seppyo A.C. | Y. Shuji | Climbed 13.10.76 |
13 | Manaslu(26,760 ft- 8156 m) | Iran-Japanese Expdn. | Brig. Gen. M. Khakbiz and N. Tamura |
Climbed 12.10.76 via E. face |
14 | Kanjiroba Main Peak (22,580 ft-6882 m) |
Hong Kong Kanjiroba Expdn. | R. Isherwood | Climbed 16.10.76 |
15 | Annapurna South Peak (23,683 ft- 7219 m) | Hong Kong Annapurna S. Pk. Expdn. | Capt. P. C, Cooper | Climbed 3.11.76 via E. face |
16 | Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 ft-7246 m) | Jap. Rock Climbing Socy. (J. A.C.) | K. Shindo | Attempted |
17 | Tukche (22,703 ft - 6920 m) | Nepal Police Mtng. Expdn. | Suptd. G. Shrestha | Climbed 2.10.76 |
GARHWAL | ||||
1 | Nanda Devi (25,645 ft-7817 m) |
Indo- Japanese | K. Kano, Jagjit Singh | 1st Traverse of both peaks. East climbed on 3.6.76 Traverse 13-15.6.78. Main climbed on 15.6.76 |
2 | Changabang (22,520 ft-6864 m) | Japanese | N. Toda | 2nd ascent 13.6.76, via SW ridge |
3 | (a)Changabang (22,520 ft. -6864 m) (b)Sakram(20.520 ft. 6254 m) |
British | C. Read | 3rd ascent 2.10.76 via SE. face Climbed |
4 | Changabang (22,52:0 ft-6864m) | British pair | J, Tasker and P. Boardman | 4th ascent 15.10.76 by a direct line on W. face |
5 | Pt. 21,500 ft (6553 m) between the Ghangabang and Uttari Rishi glaciers, |
British Solo | P. Burgess | Climbed 4.6.76 |
6 | (a) Kalanka (22,740 ft- 6931 m (b) Pt. 20,300 ft (6137 m) on ridge between Ghangabang and Rishi Kot |
Italian | C. Rabbi | Attempted Climbed 18.10.76 |
7 | (a) Devistan I : (21,910 ft- 6678m) (b) Devistan II (21.420 ft- 6529 m) |
American | D. J. Graber | Climbed 4.6.76 via E. face, repeated 5.6.76. Climbed 4.6.76 from the east and descent via SW. ridge |
8 | Mrigthuni (22,490 ft-6855 m) | German | Dr H. Meck | Climbed 5.10.76 via E. ridge and over the E. summit to the Main Pk. |
9 | (a) Maiktoli (22,320 ft- 6803m) (b)Devtoli(22.270 ft-6788 m) |
Japan Workers' Alpine Fed. | K. Kondo | Climbed 12 & 13.10.76 12.10.76 Traverse between the two peaks 12- 13.10.76 |
10 | Dimagiri (23,184 ft- 7066 m) |
Japanese | Dr A.Makinouchi | Climbed 21 & 24.10.76 |
11 | Dunagiri (23,184 ft-7066 m) |
American | G.Stephenson | Attempted |
12 | Dunagiri (23,184 ft-7066 m) |
Japanese | M. Kaga | Attempted |
13 | Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) | Yugoslavian | T. Sazonov | Climbed 15 & 16.5.76 |
14 | Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) | Indian | Lt. Col. N. Kumar | Climbed 17.5.76 and skied down from summit to B.C. |
15 | Trisul (23,360 ft-7120 m) | German | S. Hup- fauer | Climbed 2& 6.10.76 |
16 | Bethartoli S. (20,730 ft-6318 m) | Australian | R. Ryan | Climbed |
17 | Abi Gamin (24,130 ft- 7355 m) | Indo- Japanese Women's Expdn. II | DrM. Agrawal | Climbed 18.6.76 Attempted Kamet |
18 | Chaukhamba I (23,420 ft-7138 m) | Indian | P. Chow- dhury | Climbed 6.10.76 |
19 | Jogin III (20,065 ft- 6116 m) | Indian | Capt. J. Bahuguna | Climbed 5.10.76. Jogin I attempted |
20 | Gangotri I (21,890 ft- 6672 m) | Indian | ------ | Climbed 10.6.76 |
21 | Rudugaira (19,090 ft- 5819 m) | Indian student teams | ------ | Climbed by Doon School in June and Univ. of Roorkee in July. |
KULU —LAHUL | ||||
1 | Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft-6446 m) | Japanese | H. Takemato | Attempted |
2 | Fluted Peak (Spiti) (20,200 ft-6157 m) | Climbers' Group, W. Bengal |
Climbed 27.8.76 | |
3 | M5 (20,998 ft-6400 m) |
American | D. Young | Attempted |
4 | Mulkila (M4) (21,380 ft.- 6517 m) | Ryohou Club Japan | T. Oshi | 3rd ascent 16.9.76 |
KASHMIR — KISHTWAR | ||||
1 | a) Sher Khan (19,324 ft- 5890 m) b) Taragiri (c. 17,700 ft-5395 m) c) Sundar Pahar 08.330 ft- 5587 m d) Arjuna (20 440 ft-6230 m) |
Univ. of St. Andrews, Scotland | J. Cant | Climbed 16.7.76 Climbed 29.6.76 Climbed 8.6.76 Attempted |
2 | Katori (20,142 ft-6138 m) | British pair | C. Bonington | Attempted |
3 | Cathedral (17,619 ft 5370 m) | Loughborough Univ. M. C. | A.Judkowski | Attempted |
4 | a) Barnaj II(20.637 ft- 6290 m) b) Pt. 5130 m (16,832ft) |
Japanese Alpine Instrument Technique Club |
Attempted Climbed 13.10.76 |
|
5 | Nun (23,410 ft- 7135 m) | Czech | F. Cejka | Climbed 27 & 28.10.76 |
6 | Nnn (23,410 ft- 7135 m) | Swiss | S. Saudan | Attempted |
7 | a) Kim (23,250 ft- 7087m") b) WhiteNeedle (21.510 ft- 6556 m) |
Swiss | ---- | Climbed 31.8.76 Climbed 26.8.76 |
8 | a) Pt. 6550 m (21,491 ft b) Pt. 6560 m (21,523 ft) (both in Doda valley) |
Tokyo Univ. A. C. | K. Otaki | Climbed 17.9.76 Climbed 19 & 20.9.76 |
9 | Kanglacha (stok Kangri) (20,723 ft-6316 m) | Southampton Univ. | S. Fraser | Climbed by E. face |
10 | Sickle Moon (21,569 ft- 6574 m) | Japanese | K. Ohtaki | Attempted |
11 | Pt. 6550 m 21,491 ft. (Doda valley-Zanskar range) | Japanese | K. Ohtaki | Climbed both W. and E. Peaks 17, 19 and 20.9.76 |
12 | Haramukh E. (16,870 ft- 5142 m) | Japanese | M. Ando | Climbed |
KARAKORAM
Mountain | Expedition | Leader | Remarks | |
1 | K2 (28,250 ft 8610 m) | Klub Wyso- kogorski | J. Kurczab | Attempted NE. ridge |
2 | Skyang Kangri (24,750 ft-7544 m) | Gakushuin Univ. A.C. | G. Mitsui | 1st ascent 11.8.76 by E. ridge |
3 | Trango Tower (Nameless Tower) (20,530 ft-6257 m) | British A.C.G. | Climbed , 8 & 9.7.76 | |
4 | Broad Peak (26,400 ft-8047 m) | French | Y. Seigneur | Attempted |
5 | Hidden Peak (26,470 ft- 8068 m) | French | L. Audouber | Attempted |
6 | Masherbrum (25,660 ft- 7821 m) |
Japanese | H. Miyashita | Attempted |
7 | BaltoroKangri (23,990 ft-7312 m) | Japanese | T. Akiyatna | 1st ascent 7.7.76 |
8 | Gasherbrum II (26,360 ft-8035 m) | Japanese | H. Aoki | Attempted |
9 | Mustagh Tower (23,680 ft-7273 m) | Japanese | R. Ichihashi | Attempted |
10 | Saltoro Kangri II (25,279 ft-7705 m) |
German | G. Schulz | Attempted |
11 | Singhi Kangri (23,628 ft-7202 m) | Tohoku Univ. | H.Sato | 1st ascent 8 & 9.7.76 |
12 | Apsaras 23,770 ft-7245 m) | Osaka M.C. Univ. | H. Misawa | 1st ascent 7.7.76 by S. ridge |
13 | Sherpi Kangri (24,212 ft-7380 m) | Kobe Univ. | K. Hirai | 1st ascent 10.7.76 |
14 | K7 22,754 ft- 6935 m) | Japanese | Y. Narisue | Attempted |
15 | Gharkun 1,720 ft-6620 m) | Iida M.C. | H. Sugiyama | Attempted Climbed the S. peak (6500 m) on 29 and 31.7.76 |
16 | Latok I (23,442 ft-7145 m) | Shensu A.C. | Y. Miyahira | Attempted |
17 | a) Ganchen Pk. (21,200 ft- 6462 m) b) Sosbun Brakk (21,040 ft- 6413 m) |
German | R. Wagner | Attempted Attempted |
18 | Baintha Brakk (Ogre) (23,900 ft- 7285 m) | Japanese | T. Nishihara | Attempted |
19 | Batura Mustagh I (25,540 ft-7785 m) | German | DR A. Schlee | Climbed 30.6.76 |
20 | Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) | Fukuoka Univ. | H. Kato | Attempted, Diamir Face |
21 | Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) | Austrian | --- | 5th ascent 11.8.76 via SW. ridge |
22 | Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) | Austrian- German- Polish Expdn. |
M. Gradnitter and W. Rutkiewicz |
Attempted via S. Face (Rupal valley) |
23 | Phuparash (22,390 ft-6824 m) | Italian | Attempted | |
HINDU KUSH | ||||
1 | Tirich Mir (7706 m) | Swiss German-Austrian | H. Von Kanel | Climbed 25.7.76 |
2 | Tirich Mil- West IV (7338m) | Spanish | B. Mancebo | Climbed 23.8.76 via SW. face |
3 | a) Ghul Lasht Zom East Pk. (6611 m) b) Dertona Peak (6100 m) c) Istor-o-Nal North (7373 m) |
Dutch | R. von Maastricht | Climbed 19, 20 & 21.7.76 Attempted 2nd ascent 6, 7 & 8.8.7 |
4 | a) Kohe Keshni-khan (6755 m) b) Kohe Wark (6104 m) c) Kohe Qalat (5508 m) d) Kohe Hawar (6183 m) e)Shakhaur (7116 m) f) Noshaq(7492 m) g) Darban Zom (7219 m) |
Polish | R. Szafirski | Climbed 4.7.76 via N. face Also traverse E-W 3-6.7.76 Climbed 27.6.76 Climbed 27.6.76 Climbed 27.6.76 via S. face 3rd ascent 12.7.76 Climbed 22.7.76 2nd ascent |
5 | Kohe Keshni- khan (6755 m) | Polish | R. Krawczyk | 11-14.8.76 via SE. ridge |
6 | a) Noshaq (7492 m) b)Shingeik Zom (7291) c)Darban Zom (7219 m) |
Polish | K. Olech | Climbed Climbed Climbed |
7 | Shakhaur (7116 m) | Spanish | J. Garreta | Climbed 25 & 28.7.76 via NE. ridge |
8 | Shakhaur (7116 m) | Spanish | A. Arias | Climbed 4.7.76 via N. spur |
9 | a) Kohe Galati b) Kohe Benam c)Langar Zom N. Pk (6750 m) (W. 189) (Putz 7050 m) |
Regensburg H. K.Expdn. | A. Putz | All peaks climbed during the full traverse of theN. Ridge of Langer up to its north ernmost summit 21.24.8.76 |
10 | a) Langar Zom . Pk (6750 m) (W. 189) b) Langar Zom Main (7070 m) (W. 190) c) Langar Zom S. Pk (6850 m) (W. 191) d) Langar Zom Hind (or SE. Pk) (7061 m) (W. 192) e)Pt. 6760 m (south of Langar Zom S.) |
Polish | R. Koziol | Traversed and climbed all peaks 14.18.8.76 Climbed 1.8.76 |
11 | a) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268) b) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269) |
Polish | T. Kozubek | Climbed 18.8.76 Climbed 1.8.76 |
12 | a) Kohe QalaPanja (6328m (W. 388) b) Pt. 5340 m (W. 394) c) Pt. 5434 m d) Pt. 5759 m (W. 391) e) Pt. 6007 m (W. 402) |
Polish | M.Dabrowsi | 3rd ascent 19.8.76 Climbed 6.8.76 1st ascent 6,8.76 Climbed 12.8.76 1st ascent 21.8.76 |
13 | Eshan valley a)Pt. 5250 m b)Pt. 5695 m c)Pt. 5890 m d)Pt. 5565 m e)Kohe Laskhor |
Polish | B. Mac | Climbed 23.8.76 Climbed 31.8.76 Climbed 31.8.76 Climbed 9.9.76 2nd ascent 24.8.76 |
14 | Suigal valley a) Kohe Askival (5870 m) b) Pt. 5386 m c) KoheAinshval (5626 m) d) Kohe Morusg (6435 m) |
British | J. L. Biggs | Climbed 8 & 9.8.76 Climbed 22 & 23.8.76 Attempted |
15 | Agram H. K. Khorbe valley a) Kohe Chap- kotala (5770 m) (WA 205 b) Pt. 5580 m (WA. 192) c) Pt. 5454 m (WA. 208) d) Pt. 5440 m (WA. 181) e) Pt. 5443 m (WA. 212) f)Pt.5420 m(WA. 211) g) Pt. 5390 m (WA. 182) h) Pt. 5260 m (WA. 179) i) Pt. 5250 m (WA. 178) |
Polish | A. Lach | 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent 1st ascent |
16 | a)KoheBandaka S. (6843 m) b)KoheBandaka Sakhi (6414 m) c)Pt.6044 m between Bandaka and Bandaka Sakhi |
Polish | J.Jaworski | Climbed 7-10.8.76 via new route from the east. Climbed via SE. ridge 2nd ascent |
17 | Kohe Haftnaw (4921 m) | Spanish | M. A. Torre | Climbed |
18 | Noshaq (7492 m) | Spanish | Climbed 25.8.76 | |
19 | a) Noshaq (7429 m) b) Gumbaze Safed(6800 m)(W 121) |
Yugoslavian | Climbed Attempted |
58. Latok III from B.C. Note page 302.
59. Mango Gusor from the Biafo glacier. Note page 302.
60. The South west buttress of Saraghrar. Note page 304. Photo: Ramon Bramona Rams.
Note : WA refers to numbers given by J. Wala on his map 'Agram H.K.'
EXPEDITIONS 1977
NEPAL (Pre-Monsoon)
Mountain | Expedition | Leader | Remarks | |
1 | Everest (29,028 ft-8848 m) | New Zealand Everest Expdn. | K. Woodford | Attempted |
2 | Lhotse (27,293 ft-8511 m) | Swabian Himalayan Expdn. | Dr G. Schmatz |
Climbed ''2nd ascent) 8 9 & 11-5-77 |
3 | Nuptse(25,726 ft-7841 m) | Japanese Tohokei rukai team | H. Kato | Attempted by NW. ridge and climbed the NW.summit (7745 m) 11-5-77. |
4 | Makalu (27,824 ft-8481 m) | American | J. Roskelly and J. Long | W. face |
5 | Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (25,066 ft-7640 m) | Chiba Univ. | H.Yoshinaga | Attempted NW. ridge |
6 | Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft-8167 m) | West German Italian | R. Messner | Attempted S. face |
7 | (26,760 ft-8156 m) | West German | G. Lenser | Attempted NE. ridge |
8 | Himalchuli(25,895 ft-7893 m) | Meiji Univ. | T. Sugasawa | Attempted E. ridge |
9 | Churen Himal (24,184- ft-7371 m) | Kawasaki A.C. | K. Sato | Attempted from north |
10 | Kangchunne (in Kanjiroba Himal) (21,139 ft-6443 m) | Osaka A.C. | K. Mizu- tani | Attempted |
11 | Sisne Himal (Kanjiroba region) (22,688 ft-6915 m) | British | Capt. R.A.L. Anderson | Attempted |
NEPAL (Post-Monsoon) | ||||
12 | Everest (29,028 ft8848 m) | Korean | Young Do Kim | Climbed 15.9.77 |
13 | Pumor (23,442 ft-7145 m) | First Canadian Himalayan Expdn. | I. Rowe | Climbed 7.10.77 by SW. ridge |
14 | Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft-8167 m) | Japan Kansai Expdn. | Dr Y. Tsu- kazaki | Attempted Via. South buttress of W. face |
15 | Annapurna I (26,545 ft-8091 m) | Royal Netherland A.C. | X. Varrijn- Stuart | Climbed 13.10.77 |
16 | Annapurna III (24,787 ft- 7555 m) | Italian | F. Santon | Climbed 23 & 25.10.77 by W. ridge |
17 | Manaslu (26,760 ft-8156 m) | French | J. Frehel | Attempted via E. ridge |
18 | Rokapi (south Nampa) (22,447 ft-6842 m) | Northumbria Himalaya Expdn. | R. Godfrey | Climbed 10.10.77 via SW. ridge |
GARHWAL | ||||
1 | Nanda Devi (25,645 ft-7817 m) | British | E. Roberts | Climbed 21 and 22.6.77 via 1936 route |
2 | Nanda Devi (25,645 ft-7817 m) | Indo-Japanese | T. Morita | Attempted via American route of 1976 |
3 | Bamba Dhura (20,778 ft- 6334 m) | Himalayan Assoc. Calcutta | M. Banerjee | Climbed 5.10.77 |
4 | Kalanka (22,740 ft-6931 m) | Czech A.C. Liaz Jablonec and Nisou | F. Grunt | 2nd ascent 20.9.77 (first via the N. face) |
5 | Changabang (22,520 ft-6864 m) | Australian | G. Mathew | Attempted |
6 | Rishi Kot (20,460 ft-6236 m) | British | M. Gledhill | Climbed 21.9.77 also climbed Pt. 19,730 ft. NE. along the ridge from Rishi Kot |
7 | NandaGhunti(20,700 ft- 6309 m) | Indian | - | Climbed 2.10.77 |
8 | Mrigthuni (22,490 ft 6855 m) | Giri Doot Ladies Expdn. | - | Climbed 24.9.77 |
9 | Nar Parbat (19,210 ft-5855 m) | Indo-N.Z. Ocean-to-Sky Expdn. |
Sir E. Hillary | Climbed 17.10.77 |
10 | Maiktoli (22,320 ft-6803 m) | Japanese | H. Fukuriki | Climbed 29 and 31.5.77 and 1.6.77 via S. ridge |
11 | Bethartoli Himal (20,840 ft-6352 m) | Italian | R. Moro | 1st ascent via the N. ridge |
12 | Bethartoli South (20,730 ft-6318 m) | American | L. Jerstad | Climbed |
13 | Dunagiri (23,184 ft-7066 m) | Japanese | Y. Ohga | Attempted via E. ridge |
14 | Tharkot (20,010 ft-6099 m) |
Japanese | M. Hagra | Climbed 4, 5and6.10.77 Also climbed Banoti (5645 m) |
15 | Tharkot (20,010 ft-6099 m) | Bombay Ladies team |
L. Patel | Attempted |
16 | Kamet (25,447 ft-7756 m) | I.M.F. Ladies Expdn. | M. Agrawal | Climbed 14.6.77 |
17 | Chiring We (21,520 ft- 6559 m) | The Moun-taineers, Bombay | Harish Kapadia | Attempted. Climbed Pt. 18,372 it |
18 | Rataban(20,100 ft-6166 m) | NCC Ladies Expdn. | S. Kanta | Climbed 28.8.77 |
19 | Jaonli(21,760 ft-6632 m) | Army Artillery Expdn. | Maj. D. K. Khuller | Climbed |
20 | Banderpunch (19,814 ft-6045 m) | team | D. K. Sarkar | Climbed 24.9.77 |
21 | Koteshwar (19,800 ft- 6035 m) | I.I.T. Bombay | S. Kulkarni | Climbed 23.5.77 |
22 | Thelu (19,696 ft-6003 m) | Bengal team | ---- | Climbed 8.6.77 |
61. Between Camps 2 and 3 on the SW, buttress of Saraghrar. Note page 304. Phpto: Raman Bramona Rams.
62. Sad Ishtragh (KZ62) from the NW. The thinner dotted lines indicate route hidden from view. Note page 305. Photo: Ian Grace
63. K 88, 89, 91 and 92 from the east, from the lower slopes of KZ 71. Note page 305. Photo: Ian grace.
KULU — LAHUL— SPITI
Mountain | Expedition | Leader | Remarks | |
1 | Pt. 20,570 ft (Karcha Nal, Spiti) | Irish Himalayan Expedition | M.C. Curran | 1st ascent 19.9.77 |
2 | a) Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft- 6446 m) b)Pt. 20,300 ft (Devachen) c) Papsura (21,165 ft- 6451 m) d) Angdu Ri (19,500 ft- 5944 m) |
North of England Himalayan Expdn. | P. Bean | Climbed 28.5.77 via SW. ridge First ascent 26.5.77 Climbed 1.6.77 via SW. ridge Climbed |
3 | Upper Tos glacier a) Pt. c 18,000 ft b) Pt. 19,800 ft Pt. c) 17,600 ft d) Pt. 17,820 ft e) Pt. 19,800 ft (middle of the 3 peaks between Dharm- sura and Rinz- ing) f) Pt. 17,650 ft (first peak that runs south-west from Roberts Pk.) |
Univ. of Bristol Mtng. Club | C. Owen | First ascent 9.6.77 via W. face First ascent 12.6.77 via S. ridge First ascent 2.6.77 First ascent 2.6.77 First ascent 30.5.77 First ascent 23.5.77 |
4 | CB 49 (18,685 ft- 5695 m) | W.H.M.I. Manali | R. Singh | Climbed 17.7.77 |
5 | Fluted Pk. (Lohsar Nal") (20,200 ft-6157 m) | Climbers Grp. Serampore | S. Ghosh | Climbed 27.8.77 |
6 | Muker Beh (19,910 ft-6069 m) | Explorers & Adventurers, Bombay | M.S. Shankaran | Attempted |
KASHMIR — KISHTWAR — LADAKH | ||||
1 | Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) | Mountain Travel, America | G. Rowell | 5th ascent 18 and 20.6.77 |
2 | Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) | Swiss | S. Saudan | 6th ascent 26.6.77 Saudan skied down from the summit to B.C. |
3 | Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) | Italian | S. Martini | 7th ascent 19.8.77 |
4 | Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) | Army School Expedition | -- | 8 th ascent 16.9.77 |
5 | Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) | Austrian | E. Vanis | Attempted |
6 | Nun (23,410 ft-7135 m) | West German | E. Rubel | Attempted |
7 | Kun (23,250 ft-7087 m) | Small team | H. Schell | Climbed |
8 | a) Kun (23,250 ft- 7087m) b) Pt. 20,670 ft- 6300 m) (above Phirtse Pass) |
Hauser Inter- national | G. Hauser | Climbed 19.8 and 2.9.77 Climbed |
9 | a) Eiger b) Cathedral (17,619 ft- 5370 m) |
Irish Mtng. Club | C. Torrarrs | Attempted Attempted |
10 | a) Pt. 20,970 ft- (6392 m) (Kiar Nal) b) Sickle Moon (21,569 ft 6574 m) |
Carlisle Mtng. Club | S. Hepburn | First ascent 7.10.77 Attempted |
11 | Barnaj II (20,637 ft-6290 m) |
Japanese | N. Kubo | Attempted; climbed Pts. 6150 m and 6170 m South' of Barnaj II |
12 | Barnaj II (20,637 ft-6290 m) | British | P. Nunn | Attempted |
13 | Gharol (19,889 ft-6062 m) | Army Signals Expdn. | Maj. A. G. Roy | Climbed |
14 | a) 78 (19,850 ft- 6050 m) b) 72(20,260 ft- 6175m) |
Italian | G. Buscaini | 1st ascent 26.7.77 |
15 | Leh Pk. (19,981 ft-6090 m) | Italian | S. Billoro | Climbed, along with 3 other five- thousanders |
KARAKORAM | ||||
1 | K2 (28,250 ft- 8610 m) | Japanese | I. Yoshizawa | 2nd ascent 8 & 9.8.77 |
2 | Broad Peak (26,400 ft-8047m) | Japanese | M. Yuazua | 2nd ascent 8.8.77 |
3 | Gasherbrum I (26,470 ft-8068 m) | Yugoslavian | J. Loncar | Climbed 8.7.77 |
4 | Biale (21,071 ft-6422 m) | Japanese | M. Aoki | 1st ascent 22 & 24.7.77 |
5 | Latok II (23,461 ft-7151 m) | British | D. Morrison | Attempted |
6 | Latok II (23,461 ft-7151 m) | Italian | A. Berga- maschi | Climbed 28.7.77 Also chmbed 15 other five-thousanders |
Note: These are revised heights, after the recent survey by the Italian party. The original height of Latok II is 7108 m. The above revised he'orht of Latok
It is greater than the original height of Latok I ! -Ed
Mountain | Expedition | Leader | Remarks | |
7 | Tahu Rutum (21,822 ft-6651 m) |
Mtng, Federation of Osaka | N.Kuwabara | 1st ascent 13 & 14.7.77 |
8 | Kamnire Dior(23,433ft-7142 m) | German-Austrian | D. Class | Attempted |
9 | K7 (22,754 ft- 6935m) | Japanese | H. Ishikawa | Attempted |
10 | a)Mt.Ghent NE. (24,089 ft - 7342m) b) Depak (23 459 ft- 7150 m) c) Pt 6650 m d)Chogron Kangri (22,474 ft- 6850m) e)SiaLaKangri(20,177 ft- 6150 m) |
O. A. V. | W. Axt | 1st ascent 28.6.77 2nd 26.6.77 1st ascent 11.7.77 1st ascent 14.7.77 1st ascent 15.7.77 |
11 | Batura I (25,540 ft-7785 m) | Japanese | S. Kono | Attempted |
12 | Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125m) | American | J. M. Hell- man | Attempted |
13 | Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft-8125 m) | Polish | A. Zyzak | Attempted |
14 | Phuparash Central (22,262 ft-6785 m) | Charlotte Mason College Expdn. | R. Rutland | Climbed 18.8.77 |
15 | Pt. c 7000 m (about 3 km SW, of Chogolisa) | Japanese | H. Akiyama | 1st ascent 14 & 22.7.77 ("Pruppoo Burkh" named by the Japs has been accepted by the Pak authorities) |
16 | Trango Tower (main summit) (20,530 ft-6257 m) | American | G. Rowell | 1st ascent of the main summit June 1977 |
HINDU KUSH | ||||
1 | Saraghrar (7349 m) | Spanish | R. Bramona Rams | Attempted |
2 | Tirich Mir West IV (7338 m) | Italian | T. Vidoni | Climbed 21 & 22.7.77 by SW. face |
3 | Tirich North I (6732m) | Swiss | J-J. Asper | Attempted |
4 | Istor-o-Nal NE. (7276 m) | Nagoya Keiryo Club | H. Hikota | Attempted |
5 | Garmush (6244m) | Doshisha Univ. | T. Matsumura | Climbed 26 & 27.8.77 |
6 | Udren Zom Central (7080 m) | Japanese | K. Hirai | 1st ascent 10.8.77 |
7 | Urgunte Bala valley a) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268) b) Pt. 5800 m (next to Kohe Awal) c) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269) d) Kohe Tez (7015 m) e) Shoghordok Zom (6838 m) (W. 267) f) Shoyoz Zom (6905 m) g) Urgunt East (6920 m) (W. 265) h) Kohe Urgunt (7038 m) (W. 258) |
Czech | M.Neuman n | Climbed 28.6; 1.7 & 9.7.77 Climbed 2.7.77 Climbed 5, 6 & 7.7.77 Traverse on 8 &9.7.77 11.7.77 11.7.77 12.7.77 12.7.77 |
8 | Mandaras valley a) M9 (6100 m) (W.126) b) M5(6074 m) (W.135) c) Kohe Man- darasM8 (6628 m) (W. 129) d) M7 (6284 m) (W. 132) e) Noshaq (7492 m)(W. 98)Bandaka region - Zidghan valley f) Kohe Bandaka (6843 m) g) Kohe Zerago (5907 m) and h) Kohe Nol (5593 m) |
Polish- British | A. Zawada | Climbed 2, 3 & 4.8.77 Climbed 1 & 2.8.77 Climbed 12.8.77 Climbed 13 & 14.8.77 Climbed 19.8.77 Climbed 9.8.77 Traversed |
9 | Ishmurg valley a) Kohe Spartakadia (5080 m) (W. 380) b) Pt. 5850 m (W. 351) c) Kohe Dusti N. (6390 m) (W. 362.2) d) Kohe Hevad $5843 m) (W. 353) e) Kohe Dusti S. (6435 m) (W. 362) f) Kohe Uparisina NE. (c. 6248 m) (W. 381.3) |
Academic A. C., Krakow g) Lunkho-i- Sharqi (c. 6600 m) |
J. Maczka | Climbed 28.7.77 Climbed 30.7.77 Climbed 2.8.77 Climbed 10.8.77 Climbed 11.8.77 Traverse via N. face and descent by NE. ridge 17-20.8.77 1st ascent 21.8.77 |
10 | Kohe Hevad (6843 m) (W. 353) | Krakow Expdn. | K.Jaku bowski | Attempted |
11 | Urgunte Bala valley a) Kohe Awal (5800 m) (W. 281) b) Kohe Koanen (5320 m) (W. 293B) c) Pegish Zom I N. Pk. (6269 m) (W. 294) d) Pegish Zom I S. Pk. (6080 m) (W. 294A) |
Academic Sect, of Beskiden Guides of Warsaw |
E. Kuna | Climbed 19 & 23.7.77 2nd ascent 22.7.77 Climbed 28 & 31.7.77 Climbed 28 & 31.7.77 |
12 | Urgunte Bala valley a) Kohe Awal (5800 m) (W. 281) b) Pt. 5800 ra (near Kohe Awal) c) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268) d) Urgunt East (6920 m) (W. 265) e) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269) |
Academic A.C. of Silesian Univ. of Katowice |
K. Malczyk | Climbed 22 & 24.7.77 Climbed 24.7.77 Climbed 28 & 31.7.77 Climbed 1 8c 2.8.77 Climbed 7.8.77 |
13 | Urgunte Bala valley a) Kohe Awal (5800 m) (W. 281) b) Akher Chaq (7020 m) (W. 269) c) Kohe Dur (5100 m) d) Kohe Tez (7015 m) (W. 268) e) Shayoz Zom (6905 m) (W. 266) f) Shoghordok Zom (6838 m) (W. 267) |
Academic A.C. of Poznan Expdn. |
R. Tuliszka | Climbed 21.7.77 Climbed Climbed 27.7.77 Climbed 1 8c 8.8.77 Climbed 2.8.77 Climbed |
14 | Shakhaur (7116 m) | Wroclaw Mountain Club | J. Kulis | Climbed by new routes via central buttress of NE. face (9-13.8.77) and by the NW. buttress of the NW. face (12-16.8.77) |
15 | a) W. 164 b) Kohe Nadir- shah (6814 m) (W. 137) |
Polish Mountain Club, Warsaw |
P. Mlotecki | Climbed 30.7.77 Climbed 8 & 9.8.77 |
16 | a) Noshaq (7492 m) (W. 98) b) Kharposhte Yakhi (5698 m) (W. 86) |
Mountain Club of Torun |
W. Szymanski |
Climbed 12 & 18.8.77 Climbed 2.8.77 |
17 | Yashek valley (H. K. Zebak) Pt. c 5400 m(WZ. 185) | Univ. of Gdunsk | K. Patelski | Climbed 13.8.77 |
18 | Munjan H. K. Suyengal valley a) Kohe Saruke Sard (5728 m) b) Kohe Morusg (6100 m) c) Kohe Dosare Surengal N 5380 m) d) Pt. 5550 m |
Krakow Section of the Polish Society of Earth Sciences |
J. Wala | 2nd ascent 21.7.77 Climbed 23.7.77 Climbed 28.7.77 Climbed 28.7.77 |
19 | Suigal valley (Munjan) a) Pt. 4800 m b) Pt. 4267 in & c) Pt. 4257 m d) Pt. 5150 m e) Pt. 5580 m f) Kohe Morusg (6435 m) g) Pt. c 5430 m h) Pt. c 5000 m i) Pt. 5200 m j) Pt. 5000 m |
Stoleczny Tatra Club PTTK of Warsaw |
S.Bratkows ki | 1st ascent 15.7.77 Climbed on 16, 20 & 21.7.77 1st ascent 21.7.77 2nd ascent 22.7.77 Climbed 25 & 27.7.77 Climbed 25 & 27.7.77 1st ascent 28.7.77 Climbed 30.7.77 Climbed 1.8.77 |
20 | Chapdara valley Szczecin Mountain a).Pt. 4950 m Club Expdn. b) Kohe Khwaja Shagwa (5585 m) c) NW. Peak (5550 m) d) SE, Peak (5585 m) e) Pt. 5014 m f) Pt. 5336 m g) Pt. 5500 m h) Pt. 5700 m i) Pt. 5580 m j) Pt. 5100 m |
Szczecin Mountain Club Expdn. | T. Rewaj | 1st ascent 15.7.77 Climbed on 16 & 17.7.77 1st ascent 17.7.77 1st ascent 22.7.77 1st ascent 23.7.77 1st ascent 28.7.77 1st ascent 28.7.77 1st ascent 30.7.77 |
21 | Canigal (Parshui) Valley a)Kohe Canigal (Parshui) (6010 m) b)Pt. 5216 m c)Pt. 5288 m d)Pt. 5300 m |
Academic Guide Section of Krakow | M.Radwans ki | Climbed 12.8.77 2nd ascent 13.8.77 1st ascent 14.8.77 Traverse from S. to N. 13.8.77 |
22 | Achla valley a)Kohe Du-Sikh (5405 m) b)Poshtai-i-Tez (c 4648 m) |
Krakow Section of the Polish Society of Earth Sciences | J. Wala | 1st ascent 9.7.77 Climbed 10 & 11.7.77 |
23 | Mir Samir group Pt. c 5100 m (SW. of Mir Samir) | Polish | W. Paszyn-ski and K. Spyrka | Climbed 29.9.77 |
24 | Khwaja Mohammed region- Piw valley a)Kohe Rakhoy-i- Shamali (5517 m) (W. 13) b) Pt. 5320 m (W.13') c) W. 13 d) W. 13A e) Blandkonj (5330 m) (W. 11) f) Kolla-i-Qandi (W. 15) g) Kohe Shaker Ab (W. 16) h) Kohe Mashkashoy (W. 9) |
Silesian Academic H. K. Expdn. | M. Mal- kowski | Climbed Climbed 26.7.77 Climbed 27.7.77 Climbed 29.7.77 Climbed 28 & 31.7.77 31.7.77 Climbed Climbed 2.8.77 Climbed 2.8.77 |
25 | Ledjdi and Parkhor valleys Qolla-i-Nazar (c 4900 m) | Polish | 1st ascent 23.9.77 | |
26 | Salang region a) Kohe Tobatay (4790 m) (S 14) b) Pt. C 4700 s. and N. Pks. |
Krakow Expdn. (see 18 - and 22) | J. Wala | 2nd ascent 29.6.77 Climbed 28.6.77 |
27 | Salang region Khenjan valley a) Pt 4516 m (S 7) b) Pt. 4430 m (on the summit ridge of Pt. 4516) c) Pt. 4200 m |
Warsaw Expdn. (see 19) | S. Bratkowski | Climbed 27.6.77 Climbed 27.6.77 Climbed 28.6.77 |
28 | Mandaras valley M7 (6284 m) (W. 132) | Spanish | R. Vila | Climbed 6.8.77 via NW. part of the W. face |
29 | a) Noshaq Polish (7492 m) (W. 98) b) Gumbaz-e- Safed (6800 m) (W. 121) c) Aspe Syah (6350 m) d) Aspe Safed (6450 m) (W. -77) e) Kharposht-e- Yakhi (5698 m) (W. 86) f) Gumbaz-e- Safed (6800 m) (W. 121) |
Polish | Z. Breslin | Climbed 8, 19 & 20.8.77 Climbed 15.8.77 by couloir on S. face Climbed 19.8.77 by S. face Climbed 20.8.77 Climbed Climbed by W. ridge |
30 | Noshaq (7492 m) (W. 98) | Czech solo | Ms D. Ster bova | Climbed 6-14.8.77 |
31 | Noshaq (7492 m) (W. 98) | Spanish | E. Font | Climbed 9 & 11.8.77 |
32 | Shyorpalas valley - Zebak Kohe Sakht (5780 m) (WZ 57) | French | J. Gaillard | 1st ascent 10, 12 & 14.8.77 |
33 | a) Rakhe Kuchek (5243 m) b) Kharpasht-e-Yakhi (5698 m)(W. 86) Zebak region c) Kohe Sakht (5780 m) WZ 57) d) Kohe Zard (5810 m) (WZ 16) |
Oxford Univ. M. C. | S. Venables | Climbed by N. face Climbed 2nd ascent 2nd ascent |
34 | Qalat valley- Zebak a) Pt. 5070 m(WZ 70) b) Pt. 5060 m (WZ 71) c) Kohe Qalat (5400 m) (WZ 75) d) Pt. 5600 m (WZ 89) e) Pt. 5045 m (WZ 99) g) Kalisa-i-Sangi (5640 m)(WZ 100) h) Sare Kalan (5650 m) (WZ 92) |
Manchester Univ. | R. Eastwood | Climbed 30.7.77 Climbed 30.7.77 Climbed 6.8.77 Climbed 6.8.77 Climbed 6.8.77 Climbed 11.8.77 Climbed 17.8.77 |
35 | Kohe Bandaka Sakhi (6414 m) | Spanish | E. Martin | Attempted |
36 | Kohe Bandaka (6843 m) | French | B. Gorgeon | Attempted |
37 | Khwaja Mohainmed range Pt. 5578 m | Japanese | T. Sakahara | Climbed 5 & 6.8.78 |
64. KZ 83, 85 and 86 from the north and showing the routes of attempts on KZ 83 and 86. Note page 305. Photo: Ian Grace
65. KZ 75 from NW. (from K 100) shpwing route of ascent. The descent was made via gullies of the south face. B = Bivouac. Note page 305. Photo: Richard Eastwood