EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

1. SIA KANGRI SW PEAK, 1974
2. BRAMMAH II, 1975
3. ASCENT OF LESSER PEAKS : KEDAR VALLEY, 1976
4. ANNAPURNA IV, 1976
5. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK—EAST FACE, 1976
6. THE FOUR FROM GRAZ ON NANGA PARBAT, 1976
7. KOLNER KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1976
8. PHUPARASH GROUP, 1976
9. EXPEDITION VIZCAINA TO TIRICH MIR WEST IV, 1976
10. KALANKA NORTH FACE, 1977
11. EXPEDITION 'LAHUL 1977'
12. NORTH OF ENGLAND HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO KULU, 1977
13. EDITOR'S NOTE ON THE I.A.F. EXPEDITION TO KULU, 1971
14. THE IRISH HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO KULU, 1977
15. ASCENT OF RUDUGAXRA II AND LAMKHAGA PASS, 1977
16. LATOK GROUP, 1977
17. THE SPANISH EXPEDITION TO SARAGHRAR, 1977
18. MANCHESTER UNIVERSITY HINDU KUSH EXPEDITION, 1977
19. A SUMMARY OF SPANISH CLIMBING ACTIVITY IN THE HIMALAYA, KARAKORAM AND HINDU KUSH

 

 

ON 14 July my Swiss comrade Peter Liechti and I met Heidi and Albin Schelbert who had just arrived from Switzerland, in Rawal pindi. Due to bad weather the next day we decided to leave by road for Balakot. From there we reached Skardu in a rented jeep via Bsbusar pass and Gilgit in 3 ½ days,

20.7. After settling the formalities of police registration and purchasing provisions we were again on the move. A jeep brought us four miles short of Dusso where the Braldo river had flooded the road. In 2 ½ days' hard walking we reached Askole.

23.7. We had to exchange our Dusso porters for new men from Askole. Two more were required to carry the additional 100 pounds of ata (local rye flour). We left the same afternoon and arrived at the end of the main Baltoro glacier named 'Concordia' after 7 days.

30.7. At the first sight of K2 our porters wanted to return- We paid them and kept only two whom we provided with boots and warm clothes. Now we had to carry equipment ourselves following the Upper Baltoro and the Duke of Abruzzi glacier.

2.8. The Base Camp was established at about 5250'm. The two porters went only to an intermediate camp on the moraine of the Abruzzi glacier where we released them the same day.

3.8. Albin, Peter and I started for a first reconnaissance on the SW ridge of Urdok I. After two days' snowfall and with the weather still looking not too promising we decided to change our plans and to climb Sia Kangri from the south-west instead. The weather remained bad till 7.8 with a lot of snowfall.

8.8. For the second time we plodded through deep snow towards the Conway Saddle and established Camp 1 at about 6100 m, 200 m below the saddle.

9.8. 'The lost day'. We made an unsuccessful attempt, traversing above the Ccnway Saddle on the southern slopes to the Sia Kongri South peak. A 50 m high partly overhanging ice-wall .'.topped our rush at round 6500 m. In spite of the spectacular view of the peaks of the Siachen glacier we returned discouraged and shifted Camp 1 to a small plateau, 100 m above the original site. Now everybody agreed to the route, through an open couloir which I had already proposed earlier.

10.8. At 6.30 a.m. we left for the couloir rising approximately 300 m above our camp. The steps prepared by Albin and Heidi the day before heloed us a lot, but soon) the hard work of plodding in deep snow started again. Higher up the route seemed without difficulty. However, we had to climb a steep slope covered with Schwimmschnee (very loose snow with a hard crust) before we reached an ideal site for Camp 2 protected by a solid serac at about 6900 m.

11.8. Jammed like sardines during the night, we were happy to leave the tent at 7 a.m. Unfortunately I vomited just after drinking a little hot Ovaltine. My stomach was upset due to the rapid climbing and bad acclimatization. It was bitterly cold on the SW face and I was forced to take off the boots and massage my toes. My comrades were better off as they all used special double boots. For a long time we could see the Sia Kangri summit above us but it took us hours to reach the highest point. Heidi was very little affected by the altitude and she broke the trail for a long time. We stopped for a short rest on the only rocks on the whole snow face, a few feet under the top. Climbing over the ridge and a steep hard snow slope with crampons we reached the Sia Kangri SW summit at 1 p.m. Standing on the watershed between Baltoro and Siaehen glacier we had a splendid view into China. The Urdok glacier originating from the slopes of the Hidden peak leads into the Shaksgam valley. Due to rising clouds and a strong wind we decided to descend as quickly as possible and not to cross over to the higher north summit. At 3 p.m. we had returned to Camp 2 and continued down to Camp 1 which we reached by dusk.

 

 

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THE ten members of the Sapporo Alpine Club left Delhi by minibus on 10 August, and arrived in Kishtwar on 14 August. Three days after that, we started from Kishtwar with 33 ponies, and on 21 August the Base Camp was established at the end of the Brammah glacier (3440 m). On 29 August, all members were in Camp 1 (3980 m) where we could examine Brammah II for the first time.

There are two possible routes up Brammah II, one from the west and the other from the east. From this point the glacier takes a turn towards the south, and the way to Camp 2 led up the easy glacier.

On 1 September, we established Camp 2 (4320 m) at the head of the glacier, and we could look up at the northern face of Brammah II from there. We decided to take the west route, because this long route had more possibility of success.

We eventually broke through the ice-fall that leads up to tin* west ridge. On 3 September, we set up Camp 3 (5450m) at the col on the west ridge. We traversed the snow slope on the northern side, and on 8 September, we set up Camp 4 (5800 m) on the northern ridge of the 8002 m peak.

A steep ridge and three rock peaks run upwards from Camp 4 to the 6002 m peak. Four days' struggle was needed to make the route and to set fixed ropes, as far as Camp 5 (5950 m), behind the 6002 m peak.

On 15 September, the weather was not good. At 4.00 a.m. the summit team (Yokoyama and Noku) and the support party (Kawagoe and Inagawa) started to climb. They climbed up the rocky and icy face step by step, and Yokoyama and Noku got to the summit at 3.00 p.m. They could not enjoy any view from the summit because of a snowstorm.

All members descended to the Base Camp on 18 September.

The team :

Kosaku Keira (leader), Akio Kawagoe (deputy leader), Isao

Tomita, Tsukasa Yamanaka, Hideo Yokoyama, Shizuo Noku,

Yoshimasa Chiba, Yasumichi Waaa, Yuko Hoshino and Kiyoshi Inagawa.

Our liaison officer was Capt. K. S. Sooch.

Two instructors from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi worked with us till 1 September.

 

 

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IN 1967 I had to pay all my attention to the ascent of Jogin III. The lesser peaks in the Kedarganga valley were not studied well —an opportunity came our way in 1976.

We followed the true left of Kedarganga over a shepherd's track, crossed a few steep snow tongues, went across a big landslide and on 28 May pitched our base near a shepherd's shelter (12,500 ft).

Four days' rations were left under an overhang. Totaram was paid off and we started on 29 May with heavy loads. After the birch forest, there was a biggish land-slide; we went along its upper edge and had a breather. A stream was coming down from the basin formed by Pt. 19,600 ft and Bhrigu Parbat I. A high ridge connected Bhrigu Parbat I and II. The side was steep and a basin was formed below, from which a stream was issuing down, Manda was hidden by Bhrigu Parbat II, and Pt. 21,547 ft was sending down a ridge which was bifurcating towards the valley. On the arm towards us there was a huge rocky peak with serrated edges looking like a skyscraper. The other arm was joined to Pt. 19,710 ft. A hundred-foot waterfall was descending from the left. We walked to its base and established our Camp 1 (13,500 ft).

On 30 May, Ganga and Vaija went up a grassy gully and reappeared on top of the waterfall. They crossed the stream, cut ever two accumulated snow tongues and began traversing the side of the Patangini Dhar. The rock was rotten and they had to go very carefully. They reached the summit of Pt. 14,500 ft on the Dhar. They had a good view of the Bhrigu Parbats, Manda group and the huge spur. The Dhar was leading towards another summit of 15,500 ft but the rock was rotten. They could not make out any peak from Rudugaira valley as the mist had come up.

31 May dawned fine and cold. After breakfast, we packed up our ironmongery, rope and food and started for the rocky summit of 15,500 ft. A few steps were cut in a snow gully and we came to easier rocky ground.

The next day we crossed the Kedarganga to its right over a snow bridge and found the base of the ladies' Jogin III Expedition. We crossed to the left over a big wide snow-bridge and camped near the stream from the col.

On 2 June there was verglas everywhere. We started rather late. We went up steeply and found a big boulder and a shepherd's camp site. Kedar Kharak was below us. It was a good expanse of alp. It was surprising but there were no flowers ; the whole alp was covered over with lovely green grass. We had some refreshment near the sparkling stream and then followed the left bank of a bigger stream. High up a moraine ridge, there was a stone as a landmark. It was nicely covered with grass. We came to a shepherd's shelter. It was 2 p.m. and we decided to pitch our Camp 3 (15,000 ft). After a general survey we decided to attempt Pt. 16,500 ft which was on the Dhar itself.

After a heavy breakfast on 3 June we started at 6.30 a.m. The slope up to the foot of the horseshoe ridge was gentle, covered with a few stones and tufts of grass. The ridge was rather broad. Our ridge now had snow on it and we roped up. The snow was very hard and after a few steps we had to put on our crampons. The going was good now and soon we gained the top of the ridge. There was not a cloud in the sky. We had a long rest. We changed ends of the rope, went up the easy slopes and reached the summit at 10.30 a-m. We had a grandstand view of the lower reaches of the Kedar glacier and the whole of the Rudugaira glacier basin. We were an hour on the summit—had our lunch, built a small cairn and left an empty tin of pineapple behind.

On 6 June we were back at Gangotri.

We saw Kashmir and white-capped redstarts, blackbirds, choughs, jungle crows, himalayan vultures, wagtails, snow pigeons, yellow bunting, brahmany myna and king crows.

Flowers were not many. This year there was not much of snow and the valley gets a good deal of sunlight—I was expecting to see more. Marsh marigold, buttercup, monkshood, berberry, wild rose, saxifraga, rhododendrons, primula denticulata and wild strawberry were the only once seen.

Members: G. R. Patbordhan (leader), Negi Gangasingh ; Tota- ram P. Misra, Vaijanath P. Misra (H.A.P.s).

 

 

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Members: Heinz Baumann, Dr Werner Goltzsche (deputy leader), Ernst Mahner, Udo Pohlke, Dr Karles Van Saamek (doctor), Pit Schubert (leader), Rudiger Steuer.

THE south face of Annapurna IV has not been tried before. Only a German Expedition (1955) and later, a Japanese expedition, have had a look at the south face from a point many miles away. They thought there was no possibility for an ascent. The face is too steep and too many avalanches sweep down throughout the day and night. So they went to Marsyandi valley and tried Annapurna IV from the north. This was the German expedition of Harald Biller, Jurgen Wellenkamp and Harald Steinmetz. This expedition was the first to reach the top of Annapurna IV.

The height of the face is 5000 m. The glacier comes down to a height of 2500 m. The porters can go only up to this point. After this there are steep walls where the porters cannot go without fixed ropes. After considerable effort we at last found a suitable site for a Base Camp (3600 m). Camp 1 was set up at 4100 m and Camp 2 at 5020 m.

The way to Camp 1 was very difficult and dangerous. We counted sixty avalanches sweeping past in a single day. Between Base Camp and Camp 1 there is an ice-fall. The way to Camp 2 was comparatively less dangerous from avalanches.

Camp 2 (5020 m) was three days' distance from Camp 1. We thought we had found a safe place because it was against a rock wall. But 80 m from this wall there was a steep chute. Through this couloir the avalanches shot down with tremendous force. Beneath Camp 2 was a steep rocky camp which was made safe on 8 May. At its end were newly fallen snow avalanches, and blocks of broken ice. Next day when the flank was free from new snow, Schubert and Baumann could cross it to the next higher camp site. Since in one day over 60 avalanches swept by, the risk was considered too great by the others.

Since the monsoon was threatening to break, Schubert took the risk to attempt the summit assault in the swift alpine style. On 10 May they left Camp 2 to attempt the 2500 m to the summit. They agreed to let off light flares if the radio contact failed. Whereas the weather deteriorated at the lower camps, it was very clear above the clouds at about 6000 m. After reaching the material depot in half the time, they crossed the crevasse to the east and reached their tent at 5650 m. From this point, radio contact to the Camp 2 was broken. On 11 and 12 May they progressed 500 m per day; on 15, about 150 m. At 6800 m they found a level place to put up a tent. They saw the summit so close to them and were elated. They didn't know that they still had 4J clays to go. Because at this height everything appeared so close to them they did not attempt to hurry.

At midnight of 16/17 May they made the first attempt across the bare ice. A little to the west Schubert loosened a snow slab and was engulfed by the snow slide. Fortunately his comrade could soon find him but since the excavation of his legs took so long they froze (he had to be in hospital where some toes had to be amputated). Nevertheless, he continued the summit attempt. They reached the summit the next day at 10 a.m. only to realize that they were not yet on the actual summit of Anna- purna IV—it was another 150 m away. The fog descended, followed by a snowstorm and they had to return to the bivouac. The storm continued the next day and it was very cold. Food became scarce. They used their fuel only to melt snow. For seven days they had now been without radio contact. They had planned for a four-day ascent and a two-day descent- Now they felt they needed two more days to reach the summit.

On 17 May another attempt was made. They carried no loads.

Baumann had a pullover; Schubert, a down jacket. They shared a pair of crampons between them and a bivouac sack and each had a light-weight safety sack. But they could not reach the ridge that day. In the early evening they scooped out a snow cave. Next day, before sunrise they started again. Once the ridge was reached, each put on one crampon, and after three rope lengths they reached the summit at noon. It was so small that they just managed to sit. After 20 minutes they descended. On 18 May evening, they reached their tent. Schubert was in great pain- his toes had blistered and were blue.

The weather deteriorated and as they reached the first part of the spur an avalanche enveloped them. Schubert loosened himself from the rope and Baumann ran for his life down. All the crevasses were covered with wet snow avalanche debris and they stepped into a crevasse almost simultaneously. Within a few seconds, one saw the other disappear. Fortunately this crevasse had a ledge and as they sank in, their ruckssek got caught on the lip. When they reached Camp 2 they found some provisions and a tattered tent.

They realized that their comrades had already abandoned this camp. They were five days overdue. Since the team mates experienced such bad weather and avalanches they must have given them up as lost. It later transpired that the last porters had left Camp 2 only five hours before their arrival. The descent from Camp 2 to Camp 1 which was at 4100 m was difficult but secured with fixed ropes—but by now the ropes had disappeared. No one knows who removed them; probably the high-altitude porters. Thus with the frozen feet the descent was made mostly on their knees.

When they reached the Base Camp it was deserted. They at once proceeded to the next village. At Siklis, the villagers kindly brought them to Pokhara. Especially kind to them was Miss Laxmi Gurung and Mr Chinbahadur Gurung. On 26 May they were all united at Kathmandu.

 

 

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 ANNAPURNA South peak lies to the south of the main Anna- ** purna range and is connected to the latter by a long ridge. The mountain stands 23,683 feet high and the east face route is approached from the Annapurna Sanctuary.

In the autumn of this year a group of nine British Army climbers serving in Hong Kong mounted an expedition to climb this route. Prom a report written by a previous expedition to Annapurna South peak,³ it was apparent that the east face had some technically difficult climbing on it, most of which was concentrated on a long snow and ice-ridge named Serac Ridge. It was because of this climbing that the route was chosen in order to give more interest to the expedition.

 

On 22 and 24 September the expedition set off from Pokhara in two groups accompanied by a total of 70 porters, a Liaison Officer and two runners, both of whom were also in the Army. After 6 days' march the expedition arrived in the Sanctuary and Base Camp was set up at about 14,000 feet, not far from the subsidiary glacier between Annapurna South and Hiunchuli.

Over the next seven days a possible route up the near side of the subsidiary glacier was tried but this proved to be heavily crevassed and severely threatened by avalanche from the slopes of Hiunchuli. It was not until 6 October that a Camp 1, on the far side of the glacier, was set up and occupied. In order to reach Camp 1 it was necessary to drop down into the main Annapurna glacier basin, go under the snout of the subsidiary glacier and climb up its moraine on the far side. Camp 1 was situated about half-way up the moraine at about 15,500 feet on a grassy spot near a stream coming from the upper slopes.

From Camp 1 the plan was to reach the further of two round- shaped cliffs (called left and right nostril) on the east face but after five days Camp 2 was set up at approximately 17,500 feet by the nearer of the two. From here we found that the route along the glacier below the left nostril was blocked by a wide crevasse and eventually a route was made over the ridge behind the left nostril and down to the foot of Serac Ridge. Camp 3 was set up here at 18,500 feet on 18 October.

During the third night of occupation at 3 the camp was hit by an ice-avalanche coming from the side of Serac Ridge. The tent was pitched on a rise above the snow-field and was thus only partially buried and rolled over a few yards. Nevertheless Camp 3 was moved further from Serac Ridge to a safe place. The Serac Ridge itself was a broad staircase of moderately steep snow rising in steps of vertical ice cliffs along its length. Although the weather during the expedition was mainly good the ridge was covered in deep powder snow and the ice was very wet and mushy. This made climbing both difficult and dangerous so it was with some relief that Camp 4 was set up at 20,500 feet on 23 October.

However the troubles were not yet over as from here until Camp 5 at about 21,500 to 22,000 feet (altimeter had broken by this stage) the ice continued to be in poor condition with a covering of loose snow on its less steep slopes. The route was eventually made and Camp 5 set up on a gently sloping snow-field at the end of Serac Ridge. The date was 31 October. At Camp 5 the Serac Ridge ran into the main face leaving about another 1,000 feet of climbing to the main Annapurna ridge. This part of the route gave the best climbing with short vertical sections of hard water-ice interspersed with steep hard snow. In its middle section the face was less steep but the final 300 feet to the cornicc did give some moderate climbing in deep snow. As there were three of us in the summit party, climbing the face was slow and a bivouac was used in a crevasse at about 22,500 feet the night before the summit bid.

On the morning of 3 November the summit party climbed easily over the cornice on to the main ridge to be greeted by a viciuis wind. After 3 hours' walking in the wind the group finally reached the southern summit of the mountain at 1 p.m. We stayed only a few minutes and then returned. Unfortunately the wind had a bad effect, causing exposure to two of the party even through their down jackets, and it was necessary to spend a further night at the bivouac before descending.

On the descent we discovered that the tent at Camp 5 had been blown away during our absence but after two days all members were safely recovered to Base Camp.

For a 1 but one of the members this was the first time that we had been to the Himalaya. Also, as we had no Sherpas, all the load-carrying was done by expedition members and the sheer hard v/ork of climbing long routes at altitude was brought home to everyone. The route was well worth doing and provided an interesting climb.

 

 

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IN 1975_; under Dr Karl M. Herrligkoffer, a team had attempted the SW ridge and reached a height of 7500 m. The amazing fact is that this route runs along the fierce left part of the Rupal flank which is the steepest wall on earth. We decided, on this route which from base to the summit is half as far as the normal route. Along this way there are few glaciers, though much stone movement between Camp 1 (5100m) and Camp 2 (6100 m). 16 expedi- tions before us had made attempts.

On 25 June we reached Rawalpindi and got our permission that very day.

Our aim was to make this attempt cheaply and without high altitude porters. Robert, Siegfried and Hilmar and the liaison officer left Base Camp with provisions to erect Camp 1 at 5100 m. We took porters upto Camp 1 and transported 18 loads in quick time to save 5 load-days. While I and Gerhardt went with the porters, the others went ahead to set up Camp 1. This part was mostly rock and ice. Ropes had to be fixed. Just below Camp 2 we found steel and perlon ropes left by Herrligkoffer's expedition. The way from Camp 1 to 2 was most difficult and dangerous. Soon after Camp 1 a couloir had to be crossed. At the site of Camp 2 we found some provisions, left by an expedition of the previous year. We, too, left some provisions behind, as also othu material.

Heavy knapsacks and deep snow stopped us 200 m below Camp 3. We fixed a simple depot there. Next day at noon we reached Camp 3 and added yet more load to our knapsacks. We now climbed in deep snow. At 7000 m we found some tattered tents. Whatever else that had been left behind was also useless. We erected our Japanese Dunlop Nanga Parbat tent, After the last, two days of strenuous effort, we decided to rest a day at Camp 2. In the evening a heavy storm descended which this tent withstood well. Next day the sky threatened worse weather and we decided to go down to the Base Camp. It rained heavily for few days and we were apprehensive that the monsoon had begun. We heard on the radio then that Pakistan had had dreadful flood:,.

After six days the weather cleared and we began afresh. By the time we reached Camp 1 the weather had deteriorated again and we spent a day there. At Camp 2 our Japanese tent could hardly be seen. Thanks to the igloo shape of the tent, it could withstand the pressure of the storm and snow. Next day we climbed to look for our depot which we had erected below Camp 3 but it could not be found. We lost the oxygen equipment, personal items and the bivouac equipment.

Anxiously we climbed to Camp 3 but could not find that either. We knew the exact location and after 2 hours' digging we located it under 2 m of snow. It was in a useless condition. We erected the American 4-man Bishop tent which was actually intended for Camp 4.

Next day the weather had cleared as we stood in front of our tent; a sudden gust of wind caught the tent and would have thrown it into the valley. Robert chased it and was able to grasp it. We had forgotten to fix it when erecting it, since it could stand by itself. This oversight would have meant the end of our expedition, because our food, radio and equipment were all in it. Our comrades plodded knee-deep to Camp 4. Although we had to climb only 500m it took 8 hours. Sometimes, we sank up to cur stomachs into the snow; we thought of giving up. Fortunately, ' v/e found a shelf at 7450 m, where we put our Bishop tent.

Next morning we started refreshed. As a precaution we carried mats, burners, snow shovels and bivouac gear, since we were still far from the summit. We had to descend a little and then cross some unpleasant snow slopes and steep rocks Siegfried; fixed ropes. We now reached the snow slopes which Reinhold and Gunter Messner had used for their descent over the Diamir flank. We slowly trudged up to 7700 m where we deposited our bivouac under a rock. On this day we could not attempt the summit, but we reached the place where the Messner brothers had bivouacked. We dug here a little depot. The weather was lovely and as warm as it is in the Alps, Thanks to the American sleeping bags, I had no cold feet and slept well. Incidentally, the European boots are not suitable for this cold weather.

We started at 8 a.m., assuming that we would climb the 400 m in a few hours. But a strong storm forced us to return. At noon the storm was spent. At 7800 m there is a combined rock flank which we crossed in a westerly direction for about 100 m and then climbed over snow.

It became quite steep until it levelled off west of the south shoulder at 8042 m. It was 7 p.m. and it became dark. Hilmar and Siegfried had gone to the summit ridge but could not proceed since the only rope was with us. We decided to bivouac in a rock wall at 8020 m.

We had only one bivouac sack and struggled to fit all four of us in it from our hips down. For our exposed upper bodies we put on sweaters and whatever else we had.

Feeling fine, in spite of the bivouac, we climbed over the steep snow ridge directly to the highest point of Nanga Parbat which we reached after about an hour.

We were surprised that we reached our goal on 11 August, exactly a month from leaving Base Camp. This was the 6th attempt on Nanga Parbat (by the Graz Mountaineering Club), which we reached by a new route via the Rupal flank. We were elated, Siegfried had just two days ago celebrated his 20th birthday and is the youngest to have climbed an 8000 metre summit. Besides none of us used oxygen.

We fixed a hook, given to me by a Japanese friend, into the summit rock and Robert fixed on to the hook his treasured yellow scarf. Soon after descending I was overcome with such exhaustion that I just wanted to sit in the snow. This must have been due to the high altitude. Many hours later I reached my comrades at their snow depot. I had to rest every five steps and reached Camp 4 rather late and even the further descent was as slow, as the ascent. I felt depressed and sometimes hopeless since my exhaustion increased. Only on 5 September did I reach the Base Camp where I felt in my right lung much pain. Throughout this time of exhaustion my comrades looked after me with much care and kindness. The pain lasted until we reached Rawalpindi 10 days later.

 

 

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AFTER preparations of three years the Kolner Karakoram Expedition, 1976, on the occasion of the centenary of the German Alpine Club Section Cologne, started for Pakistan on 14 July. The expedition consisted of two groups with 7 members each who had got permission for Canchen Peak (6462 m) and Haramosh II (6217 m).

After waiting at Rawalpindi, for three and a half weeks(!)— due to an unexpectedly strong monsoon and deficient traffic links to the mountains neither group could reach Skardu before 7 August. Because of the long approach march from Skardu to Haramosh II one of the groups had in the meantime got permission for Sosbun Brakk (6413 m) near Canchen Peak.

Both groups reached their Base Camps with 30 porters each after an approach march of 4 days. So the region of Canchen Peak and Sosbun Brakk was visited for the first time since 1939.⁴

First the camps were built up very quickly; but after one week the undertaking was interrupted by a long period of bad weather: Group I left behind Camp II (5390 m) on Canchen Peak; Group II didn't succeed in getting higher than 5500 m on the west-ridge of Sosbun Brakk. Under winter conditions both groups had to go down. Waiting for the return flight for two weeks at Skardu, the whole waiting time during the expedition was more than half of the time of the expedition itself.

 

 

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THE 'Citta di Rovigo' expedition left Italy on 24 June 1976 with the aim to climb the highest unclimbed peak of the Phuparash Group (6824 m). The members of the expedition were Silvano Brescianini, Giorgio Chierego, Marino Lena, Giancarlo Milan, Franco Morelli, Milo Navasa and Gianni Zumerle with the physician Stefano Zanella. The geologists Raffaele Casnedi and Franco Secchieri, the geographers Paolo Faggi and Mario Ginestri, ind the zoologist Bartolomeo Osella joined the expedition with the task of carrying out scientifis researches.

After completing some business with the government authorities, the expedition left Rawalpindi with the Liaison Officer Capt. Knrooq Rana, for Skardu and then reached, by jeep along the Indus Valley, the village of Sasli. This hamlet is located in the Indus Valley about 170 km downstream from Skardu, at the confluence of the Phuparash and Darchan rivers; it was chosen as the only base for the climb, in spite of the great difference in height (nearly 5500 m) from the top of Phuparash.

The long delay in such an extraordinary hot spot (48° C) for finding out the fuel for cooking in the high camps and for recruiting the porters, caused intestinal diseases in several members of the expedition on account of the lack of potable water. Three members (the doctor too!) were obliged to leave the expedition for this reason.

The Base Camp was finally set up on 12 July at the head of the Phuparash Valley in a nice shady spot at an altitude of 3440 m. Two days later the first high camp was put up at 4300'm on the lateral moraine of the glacier which feeds the Darchan valley. The crevassed glacier was explored in order to find the best route and climbed as far as the head (5100 m), where the second camp was located on 17 July. From this place it was possible to see the tremendous southern walls of the Phuparash, exposed to sun- .shine and therefore beaten by a continuous fall of ice and snow. The wall, 2000 m high, in its terrifying beauty, shows a vertical ace at the base, and in the upper part, very steep, suspended glaciers which produce avalanches with extraordinary frequency.

An attempt to reach the eastern ridge of the mountain was unsuccessful; the climbers decided to head for another peak, the highest on the north-western ridge of the Darchan valley. This unnamed and unclimbed summit, nearly 5500 m high, appeared as a beautiful icy pyramid: it was reached by two teams of climbers by two different routes (north and east). The peak was named after the valley: Darchan Peak. The northern wall of this peak was climbed on 21 July by G- Chierego and S. Brescianini: they got into remarkable difficulties in getting over two large crevasses in the middle part of the route; the icy wall at the top of the mountain was avoided by going up the NE. crest. The ridge was chosen for the descent. The day after, the second team (M. Lena and F. Morelli) climbed the eastern slope of the Darchan Peak; after crossing the Darchan glacier the team went round an icy wall and then got over the steep upper face of the mountain.

Many difficulties were overcome during the return' journey along the Indus valley to Skardu: the rain caused a lot of land slides and the road was interrupted in several localities; most of the way was covered on foot.

Even if the highest peak of the Phuparash is still unclimbed, the expedition has shown good results as regard the exploration of the very steep southern slope of the Group. An easier approach must be considered by the north-western side, from the Hunza valley—still closed to foreigners.

The work carried out by the scientists was much more extensive and covered, besides the above-mentioned zones, many different areas of Kashmir as far as Nepal.

R. Casnedi, who had already made geological researches on the Karakoram under the direction of Prof. A. Desio, investigated the titure line along the upper Indus valley and the Dras zone Indian Kashmir), between the Indian and the Eurasian continents; this argument is one of the most exciting of the modern plate tectonic theory.

F. Secchieri surveyed, from the geological and glaciological points of view, the upper Darchan valley.

B. Osella collected many specimens of fauna of high altitude in order to point out the differences between the Baltistani and Kashmiri zoological peculiar rities.

Faggi and Ginestri carried out studies on the commercial activities of the most important villages of the upper Indus valley which underwent a deep change after the Partition.

 

 

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 WE left Bilbao (Euskadi) on 3 July. It was a little late but some last minute problems like examinations forced us to wait until that date.

Ahead of us, 10,000 kilometres to Pakistan. We had no time to lose. Day and night we travelled in our two jeeps through Europe and Asia, and in eleven days we reached Islamabad,

Everything was like a quick mid-summer dream which we wouldn't realize until we had lived through it.

Anyway, by 14 July the nine members of the expedition were in Pakistan, making the last arrangements with the Government to get the final permit to climb Tirich Mir West IV, (7338 m) climbed only once in 1984 by Kurt Diemberger.

19 July—We've got the permit and "can't wait any more—that very night under heavy monsoon rains we leave for Dir, 540 km to the north.

At last, our dream starts to come true and the first wooden houses of Dir are in front of us. In Dir, we leave our vans and take smaller jeeps for the narrow tracks to Chitral and Mulkoh. These narrow tracks are one of the most exciting experiences of the expedition. Luckily, in two days we reach the roadhead safe and sound—Mulkoh—its apricots, the best in the world.

From here, we have an approach march with 60 porters to the Base Camp. There is no problem at all with the first day's porters but next day we have to change the porters and the new ones are far more expensive, as they charge us three times the price allowed by the Government. After a day of we agree with them and in three more days we set our Base Camp at a height of 4700 metres.

The Base Camp is not a beautiful green meadow as we had been told but doubtless it's the best place in the area. One hundred metres over the glacier and with the range of the Tirich Mir North in front—we wouldn't change it for the best Hilton.

On 30 July, we start putting up Camp 1 at a height of 5050 m. The first few days are hard. With no high-altitude porters (our finances didn't allow it) all the load must be carried by the members. Sometimes we envy our liaison-officer comfortably resting at the Base Camp.

But little by little we feel better and soon Camp 1 is ready so we can start on the next camps.

In Camp 1 there is an Iranian expedition coming down from the Main Tirich Mir. They tell us about the condition of the glacier. Crampons will not be needed till the base of the Tirich Mir West IV wall which is good news for us. 4 August—we set up Camp 2 at 5600 m. This will not be a real camp to stay in as the strong winds and the frequent opening of crevasses makes life very uncomfortable in it. We'll use it as a depot for material, sleeping every night at Camp 1, which from now on will be our new Base Camp.

On 7 August, Camp 3 is reached at 6050 m, two hundred metres in front of the wall.

For the first time, we see the SW. wall of Tirich IV completely. One thousand two hundred metres of rock and ice that will be our home for the next few weeks. We discuss the way to follow, from the bottom it doesn't seem so hard as it eventually turned out to be. Our goal is in front and we stare with fascination at the virgin wall.

Trying to watch the wall from different points and to improve acclimatization, two members of the team climb a peak near camp 3 the name of which we are not quite sure but suppose it to be Achar Zom (6132 m).

The following week we equip Camp 3. The work is getting harder and harder because apart from the height, we have to carry the loads every day from Camp 1 (5050 m) to Camp 3 (6050 m), and come down to sleep at Camp 1.

After five days of exhausting work, on the 11 August, four members sleep for the first time in Camp 3 and start the attack on the wall the next day.

Two pitches of ice lead to the first metres of rock. Up there three hundred metres of rock climbing that sometimes reach difficulties ties of IV-V, start to show us that the wall will be a hard task for the expedition.

Three days later, on 15 August, we manage to establish Camp 4, simple tent on a little ledge in the middle of the wall, at (6450 m.

Now the weather begins to worsen and we'll have to reach the top as quickly as possible. It snows from noon onwards every day and the ice climbing becomes very dangerous because of the thin mantle of snow that covers, the ice.

To equip Camp 4 would be one of the hardest jobs we have done so far.

At 6650 m on the wall we set up a new camp. This would be camp 5 and from there, the final attack to the top is planned.

On 22 August two members leave Camp 5 and after an exhausting day of ice climbing with slopes of 45°-65° and another two hundred metres of rock climbing (IV), they are forced to bivouac one hundred metres below the top. The temperature drops to 30° and the night becomes uncomfortable.

Next morning 23 August, at 8.30 a.m. our two friends, Ernesto Fonquernie and Francisco Chavarri, reached the top. In the descent the accident happened. It was after a rappel-always the traitor rappel! Ernesto fell down 1000 m, to sleep in the mountain he had sacrificed his life for.

Members of the Expedition : Benjamin Mancebo (leader), Ernesto Fonquernie, Francisco Chavarri, Javier Poza, Miguel Angel Alonso, Ricardo Alea Goitia, Inaki Alvarez Mendieta, Jose Luis Alvarez Mendieta, Agustin Castells.

Activities: 10 August—Achar Zom, (6132 m).

23 August—Tirich Mir West IV, (7338 m), second ascent by a new routq on the SW. Face, with difficulties of III, IV and V on rock₇ and 45°-70° slope on ice.

 

 

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WE travelled to Delhi in two trucks, and continued in them up to Chamoli where we transferred the loads to local hired lorries which finally landed us at Lata (at the confluence of Dhauli and Rishi Ganga rivers). At Lata we hired porters and goats for carrying the loads and bought all provisions for the porters.

One can approach the north face of Kalanka two ways. We were not given permission for the easier northern route leading from the Dhauli Ganga through the Dunagiri and Bagini glaciers so we had to traverse the more spectacular Rishi gorge and the classical route to Nanda Devi.

Base Camp was set up at 4600 m on a grassy field on Ramani glacier under the shadow of Rishi Kot.. Kalanka was first attempted by a small British expedition led by Jon P'rosser in 1974. A strong Japanese team (led by Ikuo Tanabe) came in 1975 and after an unsuccessful attempt on Changabang, made the first ascent of Kalanka from the South. In 1976 an Italian expedition from Torino failed on the SW ridge of Changabang as well as in the attempt on Kalanka.

Our Camp 1 was established at 5150 m at the foot of the Bagini Pass on the Ramani glacier, about 7 km from the Base Camp. Camp 2 was at a similar height on the other side of the Pass (5600 m) over which 300 kg of loads were carried. The Pass itself was exhausting work—-fixed ropes and the dangers of stone avalanches.

The north side of Kalanka and Changabang comprises a granite massif (2000 m wide and 1800 m high) covered with ice and snow —average slope of about 80° which is almost constantly scoured by stone and snow avalanches.

We first attempted the Face diretissima but were beaten back by the weather. We then planned the route via the col between Kalanka and Changabang. Camp 3 (5950 m) lay between two bivouacs on the Face. The second one was on a small platform at the top of a vertical rock pillar rising directly over Camp 3. The climbing of this pillar (Grade V) took three days. On 18 September it was decided to complete the rest of the ascent alpine style by a team of two (Josef Rakoncaj and Ladislav Jon) whilst the other supporting members J. Jains, J. Hons and M. Uhlir descended to Camp 3.

On 19 September the two summiters climbed up to the final bivouac and the following morning started for the summit. The te mperature was —20° C, foggy but without wind. At 11.30 a.m. they reached the ridge connecting Kalanka and Changabang about 150 m above the saddle. The last 100 m over the ridge to the summit followed the Japanese line of 1975. The summit was reached at 3 p-m. After the customary photographs they rappelled down one 40 m pitch after another to reach Camp 3 late in the evening. They all arrived at Camp 2 the following day. Base Camp was struck on 23 September.

During the whole of the expedition we had bad weather, but most unusual was the absence of the wind which indeed allowed good progress on the Face. Temperatures at Base Camp were between —2°C to 6°C; in Camps 1 and 2 they varied between -5° C to 0° C, During the final ascent, the weather improved and the low temperatures of —20° C at Camp 3 allowed safe climbing on the Face.

Members: Frantisek Grunt (leader), Ing. Jan Kulhanek, Bohumil Karasek, Jiri Etryoh, Jaroslav Hons, Jiri Jains, Ladislav Jon, Richard Kastak_a Oldrich Kopal, Jaroslav Krnak, Gustav Pfannenstiel, Miroslav Polman, Josef Raconcaj and Miroslav Uhlir.

 

 

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THE Polish Himalayan Expedition 'Lahul 77' was organized ^ by the Mountaineering Club 'Matragona' from Warsaw. The members were: J. Andzelm, M. Gieraltowski, M. Konecki, A. Koziorowski (doctor), Miss B. Lewandowska, P. Nowacki, A. Palczewski (organizing leader), M. Singh (liaison officer), A. Wachal and A. Zboinski (mountain leader). Our aim was one of the virgin peaks in the Koa Rong Valley in Central Lahul. We chose the peak 6157 m denoted on Krenek's map as KR 1 (H.J., Vol. XIII, 1946, p. 61).

We reached Darcha on 29 June by bus, and left it with 10 mules on 3 July. In 2 days we were at the beginning of the Koa Rong valley. It turned out to be false! The exit of the Koa Rong forms a very steep canyon about 3 km long which is difficult not only for mules but even for porters. A, proper way leads from Yotse upwards at about 4000 m and then traverses over the walls of the canyon. On 6 July the first tent was pitched and in 3 days Base Camp was finally established at about 4400 m under the south ridge of our peak near a pretty little lake. In two days Camp 1 was established at 5100 m and we reached the south ridge of the peak 6157 m. The first part of this ridge is rather horizontal with several difficult small summits which culminate at Ft. 5603 m. From the pass behind that point begins a steep slope. By this slope a south summit can be climbed and then by an easy ridge the main summit. We decided to establish Camp 2 on the pass between point 5603 m and the south summit and try the main peak from that camp.

Unfortunately the weather was very bad all the time. It was raining at B.C. and snowing over 5000 m every day. After a few days of waiting for better weather P. Nowacki and A. Palczewski started on 16 July to find a way through the horizontal part of the ridge. In difficult rock and ice climbing conditions during a constant snowfall we reached Pt. 5603 m at 2 p.m. It was a very small and sharp snow summit. We found that in such bad weather conditions it was too difficult to establish Camp 2 and transport equipment to it. We went back to Camp 1 and the next day to B. C. Since bad weather continued we decided to go back to Darcha.

Apart from the first ascent of Pt. 5603 m, Miss B. Lewandowska and A. Zboniski climbed Pt. 4941 m by the easy south slope on 13 July.

 

 

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"D A.B weather early on, causing a low snow level, resulted in extended load-carrying by Paul Bean and Rowland Perriment. By 19 May a Base had been established on the East Tos glacier at 14,000 ft. After passing a huge ice-fall we then set up an Advance Base on 23 May at 16,000 ft on he Papsura glacier at the foot of White Sail (Dharmsura).

The team split into two groups and proceeded using Alpine tactics.

On 25 May Paul Bean (leader), Barry Needle and an Indian friend Tara Chand bivouacked at the head of the Papsura glacier and next day (26 May) during 14 hours made the first ascent of the beautiful Point 20,300 ft. We later named the peak Deva- chen which means "Paradise of boundless light". The route went via the south couloir 50° connecting the west couloir 55° and on to the summit ridge. Grade AD-D. The climbers regained camp that evening in fine weather but only after being threatened by an electric storm throughout the climb.

Meanwhile the first attempt on the unclimbed SW. ridge of White Sail had failed through a climber becoming ill but next day Rowland Perriment and George Crawford-Smith set out again. They left on 27 May, climbed a steep snow gully on to the peak's prominent shoulder on its SW. ridge. Through thick cloud they continued up a narrow ridge, past a serac wall and bivouacked on a level section 1000 ft. below the summit, which they reached next morning. Height 21,148 ft. Again the climbers reached Advance Base the same day. The climbers -were amazed that on such a popular peak (now 5 ascents) this fine, safe route had never been attempted before.

Editor's Note: Apart from KRI (20,200 - 6157 m) the other peaks mentioned above are not marked on Krenek's map, which itself is not very detailed. The photo of Pt. 6340 m (20,800 ft) corresponds to KR4 which is, however, ciearly shown.

We weren't surprised that the buttress-like SW. ridge of Papsura (21,165 ft.) hadn't been tried. It looked very impressive but it was decided to make an attempt as soon as the weather became settled. After 2 minor ascents and a new route on Angdu Ri (19,500 ft) Barry Needle and Rowland Perriment bivouacked below Papsura south face, on 31 May. The first 1000 ft vertical buttress was passed by climbing up the steep mixed south face to a prominent step on the ridge. The crest was then closely followed with several very delicate slab pitches of grade 5+, one pitch of 6 and finally a tension traverse and grade 6 pitch to near a bivouac ledge at 20,000 ft. Next morning a few further mixed pitches and the snow ridge avoiding a bergschrund and a serac led to the summit, which they reached just after 1.00 p.m. (21,165 ft). In a snowstorm the climbers descended a new route down the NW. ridge connecting Devachen and down steep snow on to the Papsura glacier where they bivouacked again at 8.00¹ p.m. Advance Base was regained next morning and the expedition started down to the valley.

The climb on Papsura was a tremendous finish to the expedition and ignoring its isolation the route was still regarded as being at least T. D. Sup. Under the conditions it would have been very difficult to descend had unsurmountable difficulties been met near the top.

The expedition was extremely low-weight and low-budget, the equipment all being carried from England within normal air baggage allowance, and food was purchased locally. No Sherpas were used and above Base the climbers carried all the loads without local porter assistance.

The area is ideal for hard alpine climbing and although the weather was terrible we felt at ease and could treat the difficulties at face value.

 

 

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An account of the above expedition was printed in the H.J., Vol- XXXI, 1971, pp. 240-49. I should have had the photographs c hocked carefully and I regret to say that my lapse has resulted in a serious mistake of identity.

Thanks to Paul Bean, my attention has been drawn to this and now comparing his sketch and photograph along with those of the I.A.F. and Pettigrew (in A.J. 317—Plate No. 35) it becomes obvious that Flt. Lt. V. P. Singh's team actually climbed White Sail (Dharmsura) and not Papsura as deecribed in the article.

This, of course, in no way detracts from the fine climbing effort of the Air Force team, as long as these' corrections are taken gracefully in the same spirit as they are made.

Papsura (21,165 ft) — 1st Ascent 1967 — Expedition led by Robert Pettigrew. — 2nd Ascent 1977 (1st ascent by SW ridge) Expedition led by Paul Bean.

Dharmsura (White Sail) (21,148 ft)

— 1st ascent 1940 — Expedition led by Col J. O. M. Roberts.
— 2nd ascent 1961 — Expedition led by Robert Pettigrew
— 3^rd ascent1970 — Expedition led by Lt. Col P. P. S. Cheema.
— 4th ascent 1971 — Expedition led by Ft Lt V. P. Singh.
— 5th ascent 1971 — Expedition led by Maj. B. S. Ramdas.
— 6th ascent 1974 — Expedition led by A. Bamzai.
— 7th ascent 1977—(1st ascent by SW ridge)—Expedition led by Paul Bean.

 

 

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The main aims of the expedition were :

1. To climb the North Ridge of Hanuman Tibba (19,450 ft) and to explore the Bara Bangal, a remote area to the west of the main Kulu valley in the state of Himachal Pradesh, Northern India.

2. To collect (a) ant-lions and dragonfiies between Istangul and Delhi as part of a study of their worldwide distribution and (b) birds, small mammals, reptiles and insects for study. This work was carried out for the Royal Scottish Museum Edinburgh.

On 4 September the expedition arrived in the Kulu valley to find that the monsoon rains still affected the area and that Hanuman Tibba was out of condition. It was decided to divide the expedition stores and make an excursion to the Karcha Nala in the Spiti region with a view to attempting Peak 20,570 ft. This peak is the highest point on a clearly defined ridge which runs from the Kunzum Pass first in an easterly direction and then south-east towards the Gyundi Nala. In precise terms, the peak is situated at Lat. 32°22' and Long. 77° 43' ; it is clearly marked on the map prepared by Mr J. P. Lynam, who as a member of the Shelbourne-Spiti-Kulu expedition mapped the area in 1958.

Due to access problems the expedition had to content itself with an approach via the Karcha Nala. An attempt from the Losar valley had been recommended by Mr Lynam who had inspected the mountain from the north and east during his 1958 visit.

On 15 Sept., Base Camp was established at 14,400 ft on the left bank of the Kareha river just below its confluence with a glacial torrent flowing from the large basin due south of Peak 20,570 ft and termed by us Karcha Nala east. After a speedy inspection of the peak during the following day it was decided to make an attempt via the prominent west ridge. On the morning of the 17th four climbers, Mick Curran, John Forsythe, H. John Kerr—all members of the Irish Mountaineering Club—and our guide T'ara Chand of Manali, set out with heavy loads, intent on establishing a camp as high as possible on the west ridge and then returning to Base Camp. Our loads were dumped at about 17,300 ft after a five hour slog up unstable scree. The next day, the same team left B.C. with lighter loads and quickly regained the previous high ooint. At 17,500 ft on a small shelf we erected a tent and consolidated our position.

The alarm wert at 2 a.m. the following morning and by 3.30 a.m. We had breakfasted and geared up. Slowly we followed the crest of the ridge as it curved round and eventually rested against the bulk of the mountain itself. A rising traverse was made to the left (north) to gain the top of an isolated egg-shaped buttress at the bottom of the west face from where a further upward traverse to the right up a shallow couloir allowed us to gain the crest of the ridge. The climbing was generally easy with some rock steps providing the only difficulties. These steps were climbed either directly or on their left side and nowhere did the standard of difficulty rise above V.Diff. The rock itself was bad throughout.

The summit was reached at noon just as a heavy cloud bank rolled in from the south, A few photographs of neighbouring peaks and of the party, were hastily taken. John Kerr built a small cairn a few feet below the summit while M. Curran wrote out details of our ascent and inserted them in a plastic bag attached by a peg to the nearby rock. At 12.15 p.m. the descent began. Due to fatigue and soft snow conditions the descent was very slow and at 19,500 ft we bivouacked for a few hours to allow the snow to freeze. The descent was down the huge ice slope which forms the west face.

By 2 a.m. we reached our tiny tent for a long sleep. Base Camp was reached in time for lunch on the 20th and a few days later we struck camp to return to Manali on the night of the 25th.

A second Base Camp was set up at Beas Kund, about 12,000 ft, at the head of the Solang Nala on 5 October but bad weather and dangerous snow conditions frustrated an attempt on Hanuman Tibba.

On 8 October Mick, T'ara and John Kerr climbed the South Ridge of Shiti Dhar (White Ridge) 17,358 ft from Beans Kund, making the descent the same day.

Beas Kund Base was cleared on the 11th and the party descended to the Kulu valley. The next few days were spent in the valley resting, repacking and preparing the expedition minibus for the long homeward journey. With goodbyes said, the group drove back down to Delhi and then overland to the U.K. The large number of specimens collected for the Royal Scottish Museum were taken to Edinburgh and will be catalogued and studied over the next six months.

On 22 November, the expedition returned to Belfast.

Members: Mick Curran (leader) ; John Forsythe ; Foster Kelley; John Kerr ; Peter Lamont ; Terry mooney and Tara Chand.

 

 

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THE beautiful alp on Mian glacier was seen many a time whilst going to Gangotri and an unnamed peak looked very attractive. In 1948 Patbordhan was recalled when he was about to proceed towards Lamkhaga. An opportunity came this year to visit both.

The team made Rishikesh on 23 May and reached Uttarkashi the next day. Gangasingh, Gangal and the porters left for Lanka on 27 May and reached Gangotri the same day. After receiving the permits Patbordhan arrived at Gangotri on 28 May. All stayed under canvas near Swami Sunderanandjfs Ashram.

On 29 May a track was followed along the right of Ruduganga ; higher up a bridge was crossed and camp was made on the left bank. On 30 May the left bank was followed and camp was made near the river. On 31 May a reconnaissance was made to find a pass to enter Mian glacier but the pass could not be located and Base Camp was made on Rudugaira Kharak II (14,000 ft). On 1 June, Camp 1 was established on Kharak III (15,500 ft).

On 2 June Priti Bahadur, Gangal and Patbordhan reached the summit of Rudugaira II (c. 17,000 ft) at 11 a.m.

They returned to Gangotri on 5 June and Harsil was reached the next day. After making camps at Gangnani and Kiarkoti, on 10 June the Jalandri gad was crossed to its left with difficulty and after a long struggle Gangasingh and Durg Bahadur reached Lamkhaga Pass (17,330 ft) at 2.30 p.m. The weather was superb throughout. Due to a mild winter the flowers were very few. Even so, marsh marigold, wild strawberry, vetches, dog rose, primula clenticulala, iris kumaonsis (seen for the first time by Patbordhan in these parts), wild garlic and primroses were found scattered.

Common and jungle crows, vultures, golden eagle, blackbirds, Himalayan whistling thrushes, snow pigeons, Kashmir and white- capped redstarts, coughs, hill and brahminy mynas, were some of the birds seen.

Members: G. R. Patbordhan (leader), Negi Gangasingh, V. Y. Gangal; Durg Bahadur and Priti Bahadur (H.A.Ps)

 

 

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Introduction

THE maps in existence mark the three main summits of the Latok group with the heights as follows: Latok I, 7145 m the central top of the group; Latok II, 7145 m the western top and Latok III, 6956 m, the eastern top. Our surveys with Galileo and Salmoiraghi instruments have given different results, namely: for Latok I, the new height is 7085 m; it is named Latok II in the report; for Latok II, the new height is 7151 m. In the report it is marked as Latok I; for Latok III, the new height is 6860 m. We can explain the difference between the former heights due to their being results of surveys plotted by English topographers at the end of the last century with very distant collimations (about eighty kilometres).

I first thought of "Biafo 77" last last year, before the expedition "Groenlandia 76". In the documents presented to the Pakistan Tourism Ministry, I had asked authorisation in this order: first the 'Ogre', or one of the three Latok, all being virgin summits of more than 7000 m.

Early in November, the Ministry sent me the authorisation but net for the ‘Ogre', granted to an English expedition led by Doug Scott, that had applied before, but for Latok II (the former Latok I, 7085 m).

The Latok group is situated between the Choktoi glacier and the Biafo glacier. Having got informations from Japanese and English alpinists, I soon realized that Latok II seemed a very dangerous mountain because of the continuous falls of ice-blocks down the south wall, which is the most accessible side. Mr Takada, a Japanese, had written to me, 'Latok II is like a handsome woman that always drives man back. If you want my advice, look for another mountain'.

The members of the expedition were obliged to accept two conditions: (a) self-financing, (b) two months absence from Italy.

By the end of April already 130 boxes containing food, various material and medicines, were ready; they weighed 135 quintals. As we had not got security enough from transport agents by land, Mr. Dario Perrino of Livorno forwarded all the material by air as his contribution to the expedition. On 24 July, we were already at Islamabad, visiting several offices of the Ministry. Only on 31 July could we leave Rawalpindi, by a C 130 which loaded all the material. The liaison officer Nadeen Ayub Khan, showed at once a deep interest and later proved to be a true friend.

We lost two days more from Skardu to Dassu as the inhabitants of these two villages were celebrating the festivity of their prophet.

The long march with 152 porters began On 3 August and went on for eight and a half days, not for the fault of the porters but owing to the flood of a river that we were obliged to bridge with a cableway.

On 10 August we pitched the Base Camp on the moraine of the Baintha Lukpar glacier at an altitude of 4620 m. It is a glorious land; there is vegetation and also a rivulet of clear water.

The exploration started on 12 August and we soon learnt the truth of the information we had got from the Japanese—the south wall is not accessible, neither is the couloir of the Japanese. There were continuous discharges by day and night. There might be a way to climb alpine style, but we were then at an altitude of 5000 m and the top was 7085 m. The problem can't be solved easily. Further exploration and observation, even by night, did not enable us to establish the right time to avoid being swept away by huge snowslides.

As I think that human life is worth much more than scoring a first ascent, I decided to give up Latok II and to address every effort to Latok I which later was found to be the highest in the group.

Camp 1 was pitched in the large basin of the Latok group, in front of the glacier which runs down from Latok I, at an altitude of 4839 m. The climb to Latok I began on 14 August. Camp 2 was pitched on 16 August by Ezio Alimonta and Toni Mase at an altitude of 5480 m, over the ridge that leads to the top, from the south to north. From Camp 2 we climbed straight over the ridge of a snow field and arrived in front of a large ice-wall of the glacier which runs down from Latok I. Having climbed up this 40 m-high wall we again traversed on snow and arrived at the foot of a large triangular ice-wall under which Camp 3 was pitched at an altitude of 6000 m. From Camp 2 to Camp 3, 520 m of fixed ropes were fitted. From Camp 3 we went through a small gorge, between the ice and the rock; we climbed up another ice-wall and reached 6220 m high, where we established Camp 4. We pitched it inside a crevasse to shelter it from snowslides. From this camp we climbed up a long ice slope and after overcoming difficulties of the 4th degree over a mixed ground, reached a small gorge which ends into a chimney at 6470 m. The bad weather made the climbing very hard and compelled us to spend whole days under the tent.

We climbed up snow slopes and rocks towards a boulder where we established Camp 5 (6680 m).

On 28 August, Ezio, Renato and Toni started for the summit at 10 a.m. just after a snow-storm. The sun seemed to win but in the early afternoon a violent storm of snow and wind compelled the three men to take shelter in a snow- hole. There was a lot of fresh snow and climbing was very hard. At 7.45 p.m. they arrived on the top, (7080 m) which was seen from the Base Camp, but they were rather sorry to see that it was not the real summit, which was connected to it through a sharp snow ridge. That is to say that there are two tops: the south summit 7080 m high, and the true summit 7151 m high. The party of the three men decided to go on; they started again and reached the top at 10.45 p.m., in a changeable weather. In a moment of clearing; a glorious landscape appeared to them. It was full moon and K2 appeared stately to their sight and a number of peaks wrapped in a white mantle reflected the moonlight in a wonderful scene.

We had spent 15 days from Camp 1 to the top. They had been hard days but full of happiness.

After some stormy days which compelled five members of the climbing party to rest at Camp 5, the south summit was again reached by Attilio Bianchetti, Giorgio Cantaloni, Beppe Villa and Beppe Zandonella.

While 9 climbers were engaged on Latok, others climbed many peaks on the south side of Baintha Lukpar glacier, after having equipped the "high camps on the way to Latok I. Ten peaks were climbed, ranging from 5208 m to 5768 m in height and among them Maria Peak 5766 m, reached by Gianni Pasinetti, Italo Zandonella and Angelo Zatti and Mario Zandonella Peak 5713 m, reached by Ezio Alimonta, Arturo Bergamaschi, Angela Masina, Gianni Pasinetti and Angelo Zatti.

Besides these alpine enterprises also very good scientific results were achieved. Geologist Prof. Pompeo Casati and topographer Geom. Aldo Rampini made surveys all around, even in neighbouring areas. Several specimens of rocks which will be examined in the Institutes of Geology of the Universities of Milan, Cosenza and Pisa, were taken to Italy. Simultaneous observations of temperature, humidity and pressure were made at the observatory of Skardu.

The weather was not fine from 25 August: there were many snowfalls even at the Base Camp. Members of the expedition:

Prof. Don Arturo Bergamaschi (leader), Prof. Francesco Cavazzuti, Ezio Alimonta, Attilio Bianchetti, Giorgio Contaloni, Prof. Pompeo Casati, Ing. Luciano Grassi, Toni Mase, Prof. Stefano Mazzoli, Giovanni Pasinetti, Geom. Aldo Rampini, Heinz Stein- kotter, Renato Valentini, Giuseppe Villa, Beppe Zandonella, Italo Zandonella and Angelo Zatti.

 

 

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THE Spanish team who had intended the climb of Saraghrar south-west buttress has come back to Spain from Pakistan after their second attempt to climb this huge wall.

Modern alpinism has begun to face difficult ascents on high peaks of seven and eight thousand metres altitude. Let us also say that the technical difficulties of these ascents are not more severe than on most problems in the Alps. The recent ascents in the Hindu Kush range, the Karakoram or the Himalayas combine great altitude and a certain degree of technical difficulties.

But this huge wall in the Hindu Kush range—the south-west wall of Saraghrar Peak—offers new alpinistic problems—altitude and important technical problems.

Saraghrar is 7349 m high. The difficulties of the SW. buttress do not decrease at any point. The foot of the wall is 5050 m high. The difference in height to the top is more than 2300 m. The total length of the buttress itself is estimated at some 3500 m.

Spanish climbers began to study the possibilities of this ascent in 1972 and made a first attempt in 1975.¹ After 39 days on the wall, the eight members of the party set up four high camps (one at the foot of the wall and three on the wall). Bad weather and the end of available time made the party abandon the attempt, that year.

 

The second attempt has taken place in 1977. The team was composed of 12 members. The team reached the highest point of 1975 and continued along a very severe section to the point where the buttress looks to be less steep. During the following weeks, Camps 5 and 6 were placed after overcoming new difficulties.

At an altitude of 6350 m the leading party realized that the buttress was cut at this point; beginning here was a depression, which gave the origin to the very wall of Saraghrar. The difficulties of this second part of the wall being great, and seeing that the high camps would have to be hunig with ropes in impossible places, and that a new supply of food, ropes and tents would be necessary from the foot of the wall, the party decided to abandon this second attempt.

All this confirms that the Pakistani south-west wall of Saraghrar is actually the highest and the most difficult rock wall in the world, today.

The party reached Base Camp at Totiraz Noku (4160 m) on 24 June and left it on 2 August.

The members of the team were: Ramon Bramona (leader); Jordi Pons (deputy leader); Jaime Altadill, Jose Manuel Anglada, Joan Cerda, Joan Claramunt, Jordi Colomer, Joan Massons, Jose Luis Perez, Anton Rane (doctor), Genis Roca and Francisco Sabat.

 

 

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THIS six-man expedition climbed in the Zebak Region of the Hindu Kush during July and August 1977. In under five weeks it made twelve ascents in lightweight style, including eight previously unclimbed peaks.

The ascents made were as follows, the peak numbers being from Wala's map of the Zebak Hindu Kush: all the summits reached were first ascents

1. Col between KZ 70 and 71, from the west: R. Thomas, 29-7-1977.
2. KZ 70' (5090 m) and KZ 71 (5064 m): short ice-climb by the north face, and rock traverse on the ridge: A. Hamilton and I- Grace, 30-7-1977.
3. Col between KZ 94 and KZ 278 (col at 5200 m): steep ice- face, AD inf: J. Vogel, I. Nightingale and R. Thomas, 31-7-1977.
4. Attempt on KZ 83 (5573 m): reached col at 5150 m via north face between KZ 83 and KZ 85: 550 metre ice-face. PD: I. Grace, A. Hamilton, 5-8-1977.
5. Qalat (KZ 75, 5290 m): solo climb by north ridge and north face, D sup, mostly rock with sections of V, and one section of ice at 70°: 600 m: J. Vogel, 6-8- 1977.
6. KZ 99 (5045 m): rock route east ridge, F. R. Eastwood 6-8-1977.
7. KZ 89 (c. 5600 m): by 550 m ice-route on north face, PD: R. Thomas and I. Nightingale, 6-8-1977.
8. KZ 88 (5339 m): steep north ice-face, 600 m, D inf: A. Hamilton and I. Grace, 10-8-1977.
9. Kalisa-e-Sangi (KZ 100, 5640 m): mixed terrain on north face, 500 m, PD: I. Nightingale and R. Eastwood, 11-8-1977.
10. Attempt on Sad Ishtragh (KZ 62, 5859 m): from the north, reached 5550 m via north ridge, including ascent of unnumbered peak on this ridge (between KZ 70 and KZ 62): PD sup: I. Grace and A. Hamilton, 15-8-1977.
11. Sare Kalan (KZ 92, 5939 m): sustained 3-day rock-climb via the buttress on the NE. face, 900 m, TD: R. Thomas, J. Vogel and I. Nightingale, 17-8-1977. (This peak has been referred to in English as 'Warhead'.)
12. Attempt on KZ 86 (5320 m): reached col at 5200 m between KZ 86 and KZ 88, via ice-face- of north wall: AD inf: R. Thomas, R. Eastwood, A. Hamilton and I. Grace, 19-8-1977.

The list of heights includes the result of our own surveying, and is to be taken as an amendment to Wala's figures (see article and detailed map of the Zebak region in H. J., Vol. XXXII, 1972-73); in particular, the corrected height for KZ 92 is much higher than previously thought.

All this climbing was done from two camps in the Qalat valley near Eshkashem, and there was no high wind or snowfall until the last climb. The most significant ascents are those of KZ 75, 88 and 92. The attempts on Sad Ishtragh and KZ 83 were both abandoned because of appalling terrain—deeply corrugated icefields and rotten rock.

Items for future development are either very hard or fairly easy. The attempt on Sad Ishtragh (KZ 62) proved that there is a good line on to the upper snow-fields from the north ridge. The ascent of the same peak by the north-east face from the Syorpalas valley has been suggested by others, but this route would be subject to bad ice and stone-fall, and would be steep and very difficult. In a dry summer it will be possible to climb KZ 83 by the northern ice-rib which leads straight towards the summit. P'revious visitors have suggested the west face of Qalat (KZ 75) as a fine rock-route: this is actually an iced-up rock- face with many overhangs and no natural lines. Short but interesting routes remain on KZ 90, 91, 86 and 85. Many climbs remain in the adjoining valleys to the south-west, but what is left in the Syorpalas valley is of the highest level of difficulty, mostly on the Kaian Wall (KZ 46 to 60).

Other activities of the Expedition included collecting botanical specimens in the area visited, photogrammetric surveying to add to the maps of the area, and filming for a BBC television documentary about the Expedition.

A few notes about the area may be of interest to other climbers. The Afghan authorities no longer demand food-tax from visiting expeditions, but make every group pay 20 US dollars per day for the services of a translator (who is called a 'guide'). Parties including students can obtain a reduction in this fee.

It is not possible to take one's own vehicle further into Badakshan Province than the town of Kishim, due to the state of the roads—Land Rovers and suchlike do not have adequate ground-clearance. Local transport is readily available for hire in Kunduz and Kishim, and the two-day journey one-way to Qazi Deh or Eshkashem can cost up to 8000 Afghanis (£100 or US $190). Portering from little- visited villages can cost as little as Afs 500 per man-day for a 25 kg load; in popular centres such as Qazi Deh it can cost several times as much.

Prices for transport and pfortering in this region are rising dramatically because some foreign visitors take no trouble to haggle for low prices. Expeditions from Germany, Japan and the USA are particularly to blame in this respect, and if they continue in the same way they will soon have the Afghan Hindu Kush to themselves, since those of us from other countries can only just afford the 1978

 

 

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1935. The first visit of a Spanish mountaineer—Andres Espinosa (a well known traveller-alpinist of the time). He turns up at Darjeeling but is unable to get permission from the Indian Government to enter the mountains— presumably because of the tragic end of Maurice Wilson's solo attempt on Everest the previous year.

1954. The first Argentinian Expedition to Dhaulagiri had as one of its members a Spaniard living in Chile (a climber with considerable experience in the Andes). The invitee was 30-year old Roberto Bus cjuets. He reached up to a height of about 6000 m — between Camps 4 and 5.

1967 Carlos Balaguer (one of the early pioneers and a well- loved devotee of mountaineering) was the only Spanish member of a Franco-Swiss expedition to the Kashmir region. Kolahoi was attempted and abandoned due to continuous heavy snowfall, but Katrina Peak was climbed and another unnamed summit on the Indo-Pakistan border.

1968 Carlos Balaguer, this year, had joined a Swiss expedition led by Max Eiselin, to Nepal— Langtang and Ganja La area.

The other members were G. Bishop, J. Bletter, A. Chigna, D. Ewers, L. Fischer, H. Messerkneth and the Sherpas comprised Ang Temba, Girmi Dorje, Ang Tsering, and Tensing Gyaltso.

The team scaled several summits of 5000 m and above — one of which was successfully climbed by Balaguer.

1969 expedition entitled 'Transhimalaya' organised and financed by Venancio Lopez de Ceballos climbed in three different ranges.

They started off by making the first known ascent of Indrakilla (6040 m) in the Punjab Himalaya — Emilio Civis and Sherpa Pasang.

Moving westwards to the Hindu Kush (Bamayan region) they nnde the first ascents of Kohe Urgas and Kohe Ahangaran.

Finally Ceballos and his wife along with the Ecuadorian climber M;irco Cruz and the photographer Victor Vidal moved to the I.nngtang area and from their base around Gosainkund lake they vI imbed three unnamed summits of 4864 m, 5118 m and 4611 m.

1969. Meanwhile E. Civis had joined the Barcelona Hindu Kush expedition led by Jose-Manuel Anglada. This was a highly success- !ui expedition which after climbing four peaks in the Ano Gol, made a sweep of four major summits of Istor- o-Nal including the flr::t ascent of the main summit.

26-7-1969 Apollo XI Zom (6010 m)—Civis, Roca, Pons, Anglada.

28 7-1969 Ghul Lasht Zom III (6361 m)— Civis, Roca, Pons, Anglada.

31-7-1969 Cataluna Zom (6060 m)—Civis, Cerda, Roca, Pons, Anglada.

31-7-1969 Aspe Safed South (6450 m)—-Civis, Cerda, Roca, Pons, Anglada.

11-8-1969 Rock Pinnacle (7200 m) —Civis, Cerda, Pons,

12-8-1969 Istor-o-Nal S. (7303 m) Anglada.

12-8-1969 Istor-o-Nal SE, (7365 m)

12-8-1969. Istor-o-Nal Main (7403 m)

(See H.J, Vol. XXIX, 1969)

1970. A small team from Barcelona (Jordi Matas, Manuel Martin, Alfredo Poveda and Joan Marti) drove overland to Nepal to attempt Annapurna. Beaten back by the bad state of the route they turned " to the nearby Nilgiri massif and climbed the East Summit (6749m)—first ascent—Martin and Matas.

1971. An expedition led by Cesar Perez de Tudela visited the T'irich area in the Hindu Kush; after some confusion as to the actual peak climbed, it was finally identified as Ghul Lasht Zom South (c. 6400 m). Tudela lost his wife Elena who died of some intestinal infection at Base Camp.

1971. The Expedition Excursioniste de Gracia, from Barcelona to Urgunte Bala valley was led by Jose Paytubi and comprised Manuel Martin, Jordi Matas, Cesar Comas and Miguel Lusilla. Their target was Pt. 6920m (Wala 265) (Kohe Shah, a name which Dr A. Diemberger prefers not to use, in order to avoid confusion with Shah Dhar—he suggests Urgunt East. He also avoids the equally misleading title Kohe Shan.)

The approach was made by a long traverse from below the summits of Kohe Tez (W. 268), Kohe Shogordok (W. 267) and Kohe Shayoz (W. 266) but had to give up the attempt about 170 m from below the summit due to bad weather. The second attempt was abandoned when Matas fell into a crevasse and died.

The peak was climbed (first ascent) by an Italian Expedition led by Bruno Toscan, a few weeks later by the same route as that of the Spaniards.

(See H.J, Vol. XXXII, 1972-73)

1972.Dr. Mariano Arrozola joined a French expedition to investigate the approaches to Everest via Lho La. The other members were Christian Mollier, Michel Martin, A. Tezez and B. Taillaz. The party made the ascent of Island Peak.

1972. Fr. R. Erviti of St. Xavier's High School, Bombay led a party of schoolboys and teachers to the Kulu valley. Together with another priest he climbed Hanuman Tibba.

1973. Jaime Fabres and his wife joined a French expedition (Claude Jaccoux, Jean Joannon, Dr. Hasslin and his wife) to the Kashmir Himalaya. The Fabres made the ascent of Kolahoi.

1973. A Spanish expedition led by J. G. Orts attempted Manaslu from the east, by the Japanese route of 1956. It was the first post-monsoon attempt on Manaslu and ran into bad weather-— Camp 2 was twice destroyed by avalanches, luckily unoccupied at the time. Further attempt was given up.

1973. An expedition to the Hindu Kush (Upper Tirich glacier) was led by Jose Maria Montfort. The other members were A. Bahi, A. Redondo, J. Camprubi, R. Ma jo, E. Bonastre, J. Lleonart, J. M. Diaz, J. Frontera and F. Ludwing. In a highly successful venture they ascended

10-8-73 Tirich Mir Main (7707 m)—Montfort and Camprubi.

11-8-73 Dir Gol Zom (6778 m)—Ludwing and Lleonart.

13-8-73 Manresa Zom (7352 m), a fore summit of Tirich West I and Tirich West I (7487 m)—Ludwing and Lleonart.

(See H.J., Vol. XXXIII, 1973-74).

1973. Cesar Pelez de Tudela along with Ecuadorian Ramiro Navarrete and Sherpa Nawang Gyalsen attempted Annapurna in the post-monsoon. (This appears to be an unrecorded attempt as the official Nepalese list only mentions an Italian attempt of the peak in the post-monsoon period—Ed.)

1974. An expedition led by J. M. Anglada made the first ascent of Annapurna East (8026 m) lying directly east of Annapurna 1.

The other members were J. Pons, M. Martin, X. Perez, A. Villena, E. Civis, E. Benavente, E. Blanchard and Dr Mariano Anglada.

The leader along with Pons and Civis reached the summit on 29 April.

1974. The Tximist expedition led by Juan I. Lorente attempted Everest by the South Col route but were beaten back by high winds after having reached a point at about 8500 m.

(See H. J., Vol. XXXIV, 1974-75)

1974. A small party comprising Luis Fernando Bianco-Magadan, Jose Manuel Cuevas and Antonia Alsina Fen were joined by Ewald Ruf (German) and Edward Hauser (Swiss) in an attempt on Noshaq Main (7492 m) which was climbed by Ruf and Cuevas. Aspe Safe a (6507 m) was also attempted.

1975. Saraghrar (7349 m) was attempted by an expedition led by Jordi Colomer, by its difficult SW spur. The highest point reached was 6020m on 24 August.

(See H.J., Vol., XXXIV, 1974-75)

1975. A team from Manresa led by Jose M. Montfort had more success in Qadzi Deh when all the summits of Noshaq were traversed on 22 and 23 August. The expedition also climbed Aspe Nafed (6450 m) and Kharposhte Yakhi (5498 m).

(See H.J., Vol. XXXIV, 1974-75)

1975. An expedition from Madrid led by J. G. Orts was successful on Manaslu (8156 m) via the east ridge. On 25 April J. R. Martinez, G. Blazques and Sherpa Sonam reached the summit.

1975. A team comprising I. Aldaya, J. Pastor, J. M. Mendizabal, V. Munoz, M. Zabaleta and J. Matas visited the Kulu valley. They i limbed Manali Peak (5669 m) by a new route along its east spur, Miikar Beh (6069 m), Shiti Dhar and finally capped a good venture l .v the ascent of Hanuman Tibba by its north ridge.

(See H.J., Vol. XXXIV, 1974-75)

1975. Hanuman Tibba was also climbed by Fr. R. Erviti and Fr. J. Castiella of St. Xavier's, Bombay during their annual training camp in Kulu for the young boys under their charge.

1975. E. Martin, M. Forne, J. Forne, and J. C. Martin made some useful ascents in Kashmir including Kolahoi (via the east buttress), Bur Dalau (NW. buttress), Pk. 4859 m (SW. couloir) and Pk. 5230m (E. buttress).

1976. Shakhaur (7116m) was climbed twice during the year by Spanish expeditions.

The N. spur was climbed by a team comprising A, Arias (leader), M. Lopez, R. Moreno, L. B. Duran, F. Casado, L. del Olmo, E. Garcia, L, Lopez, A. Romero and I. Torrico.

The NE. spur was ascended by a team whose members were J. Garreta (leader), J. Garayoa, T. Cornellana, J. Lasterra, A. Alvira, J. Pastor, G. Plaza, I. Aldaya, J. Ayucar, G. Ariz and L. Arbeloa.

1976. Expedition Viscaina at Tirich Mir West IV made the second ascent of the peak (7338 m) by a new route up its difficult SW. Face. The team led by Benjamin Mancebo comprised E. Fonquernie, F. A. Chavarri, J. Poza, M. A. Alonso, R. A. Goitia, I, A. Mendietta and A. Castells.

The Summit was reached on 23 August by E. Fonquernie and F. Chavarri. On the descent, Fonquernie fell during a rappel and died.

The team also climbed Achar Zom (6132 m) on 10 August. 1976. Miguel A. Torremocha and Jaime Nogueroles from Barce- lOma climbed Kohe Haftenor (Bamayan valley).

1976. Another team from Barcelona comprising A. Sors, E. Pujol, J. Gomis and M. Hernandez climbed Noshaq (7492m) on 25 August by the SE. buttress.

1976. Makalu (8481 m) was climbed by the combined efforts of Centro Excursionista de Comarca de Bages (led by J. M. Montfort) and the Czech Assoc. of Physical Culture (led by I. Galfy) who joined forces at Camp 6.

The Spanish team had climbed by the SE. ridge while the Czechs had ascended via the SW. pillar. The summit was reached by Jorge Camprubi Casas, along with Czechs Milan Krissak and Karel Schubert on 24 May at 4.30 p.m. On the descent the exhausted Schubert decided to bivouac while the other two continued down by the Spanish route from Camp 6. He was not seen again.

1976. A team from Barcelona comprising R. Margalef, N. Margalef, A. Garcia, A. Boluda, A. Rodriguez, A. Martin, M. Bon, X. Cami and Dr X. Latorre attempted Nun and Kun.

1977. Teams from Barcelona were active in the Hindu Kush.

1. The NE. buttress of Kohe Bandaka Sakhi was attempted.
2. M 7 in the Mandaras valley was climbed by a new route.
3. Saraghrar (7349 m) was again attempted by the 1975 route (SW. spur) and the team wag led by Ramon Bramona Rams.

 

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