CLUB PROCEEDINGS

THE HIMALAYAN JOURNAL
RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB
EDITED BY
KENNETH MASON

'To encourage and assist Himalayan travel and exploration, and to extend knowledge of the Himalaya and adjoining mountain ranges through science, art, literature, and sport'

VOLUME VIII
1936

OXFORD
AT THE CLARENDON PRESS
LONDON : HUMPHREY MILFORD

THE HIMALAYAN CLUB
President:
H.E. SIR HARRY HAIG.

Vice-Presidents:
DR. A. M. HERON. A. H. LLOYD, ESQ.

Honorary Secretary:
MAJOR E. A. L. GUETERBOCK.

Honorary Local Secretaries:
KASHMIR. MR. F. LUDLOW.
MAJOR K. C. HADOW.
CHAMBA. DR. J. HUTCHISON.
DARJEELING. J. W. KYDD, ESQ.
EASTERN SECTION. MRS. H. P. V. TOWNEND.
GARHWAL. O.C. 10/I8th Royal Garhwal Rifles.

Honorary Editor:
LT.-COLONEL KENNETH MASON.

Honorary Assistant Editor:
J. B. AUDEN, ESQ.

Honorary Treasurer:
A. H. BYRT, ESQ.

Honorary Librarian:
MAJOR J. R. FOY.

Committee:

J. G. ACHESON, ESQ. W. ALLSUP, ESQ. J. B. AUDEN, ESQ. CAPTAIN E. St. J. BIRNIE. G. B. GOURLAY, ESQ.

THE RAJA OF JUBBUL. CAPTAIN R. A. K. SANGSTER. E. O. SHEBBEARE, ESQ. DR. P. C. VISSER. LT.-COL. J. L. R. WEIR.

 

Additional Members of the Balloting Committee:

CAPTAIN J. F. BLACKDEN. L. R. FAWCUS, ESQ,. MAJOR J. R. FOY. J. S. HANNAH, ESQ. LT.-COL. SIR S. HISSAM-UD-DIN.

A. A. MARR, ESQ. LIEUT. E. H. MARRIOTT. BRIGADIER A. L. M. MOLESWORTH. CAPTAIN G. S. NANGLE. CAPTAIN G. H. OSMASTON.

 

Reprinted from the original edition published by Oxford University Press, Indian Branch, on behalf of the Himalayan Club by arrangement with the publishers.

 

The Eight Annual General Meeting of the Himalayan Club was held in the Army Department Committee Room at New Delhi on Tuesday the 21 st February 1936. The Vice-President, Major- General W. L. O. Twiss, c.b., c.b.e., m.c., took the Chair.

The Honorary Secretary, Major E. A. L. Gueterbock, presented his report on the work of the Club for the year 1935, which was accepted. The Club Accounts for the year were presented by the Honorary Treasurer and confirmed. The Officers, Members of the Committee, and Additional Members of the Balloting Committee for the year 1936 were elected, and Messrs. A. F. Ferguson & Co. were reappointed Auditors to the Club.

Rule 7, dealing with the ballot for new members, was considered and altered, and Rule 10 was amended to provide for the election of Associate Members of the Club. In future the Committee has power to elect as Associate Members persons resident in India whose knowledge or abilities will be an asset to the Club, but who find it impossible to afford the Indian rates of subscription. The number of such Associate Members is limited to ten.

The General Meeting voted a sum of Rs. 2,000/- towards the funds of the Mount Everest expedition. Certain rules for the employment of high-altitude porters were passed. Subscription fees and compounding fees for life membership were considered. It was decided to forward a draft of proposed alterations to Rules 12 and 13 to all members for their remarks, and to call an Extraordinary General Meeting during August 1936 to consider whether such alterations should be accepted.

The presidential term of office was discussed. It was deemed advisable that Presidents should be eligible to hold office for a longer period than two years, if asked to do so. The Honorary Secretary was instructed to circularize members with a view to amending Rule 34 so far as it concerns this question.

A vote of thanks was passed to Mr. J. B. Shearer on his retirement from the position of Honorary Treasurer.

Below are printed the Honorary Secretary's Report for the year 1935, and the Rules for the Employment of High-Altitude Porters, which were adopted at the meeting.

 

Report on the Work of the Club in the Year 1935

By the Honorary Secretary

Membership.—The increase in membership has continued, although this year a large number of members have been struck off the Club roll for non-payment of subscriptions. A large proportion of the latter are newly elected members, and it is hoped that before members propose and second applicants for membership, they will ensure that such applicants are really interested in the activities of the Club. Thirty-six new members were elected during 1935, while there were 5 deaths and 10 resignations. Twelve members were struck off the Club roll owing to their subscriptions being in arrears.

The majority of those members who have resigned have left India for good. It is not perhaps always realized that those who leave India can continue their membership at home for per year, which can be compounded into a life membership on the payment of £2.

The membership now stands at 395, an increase of 9 over last year.

Obituary.—We mourn the death of several members of the Club.

Mr. F. Williamson, a valued Founder Member, who died recently at Lhasa.

Captain D. L. Clark of the 2/1 ith Sikh Regiment.

Major J. P. Little, r.a.m.c., who died on board ship whilst en route to England.

Lieut. D. N. B. Hunt, r.e., who was tragically drowned in Chitral.

H.H. The Rajah of Chamba.

Expeditions.—Many expeditions have taken place this year, and the following are among the expeditions in which members of the Club have taken part.

Dr. and Mrs. Visser carried out their fourth expedition to the Karakoram, which was concluded as successfully as previous expeditions. Owing to Dr. Visser proceeding to Europe immediately on the return of his expedition, I regret that I was unable to obtain from him a short report of his doings for this Report.

Mr. J. Waller, Captain H. C. J. Hunt and party visited the Karakoram and made an attack on Peak 36.

Captain H. C.J. Hunt and Mr. Brotherhood climbed Kolahoi by the south face.

Captain R. J. Lawder and the late Lieutenant D. N. B. Hunt climbed in the Tirich Mir district. A full report of these climbs will appear in the 1936 journal.

Mr. Gardiner and Mr. Finch travelled up the Lachen valley and camped at various places on the slopes of Lachsi and other hills on the west of the route between Thangu and Gyagong.

Mrs. H. P. V. Townend, the Honorary Secretary, Eastern Section, spent eighteen days travelling in north Sikkim at the end of May and beginning of June, with the purpose of inspecting various sites for the Glub huts. Following the ordinary route as far as Thangu rest-house, she then went up the Jha Chu valley, accompanied by a road munshi sent by the State Engineer of Sikkim. There are excellent sites for a hut at the top of the valley close to the foot of the Sebu La as it is approached from the west, and not far from Kangchenjhau. Shelter from the wind, plenty of dwarf juniper for fuel, good water, and magnificent scenery combine to make this section of the valley admirably suited for the building of a hut. Instead of crossing the Sebu La, Mrs. Townend climbed out of the valley in a northerly direction, and, skirting the lower westerly and northerly slopes of Kanchenjhau at altitudes of from 15,000 to 17,000 feet, made her way round to the Gordama lake, and from there to the Tso Lhamo, where she rejoined the ordinary route over the Donkhya La and so down to Mome Samdong. Here she was rejoined by the road munshi, and after following the side valley to the west as far as the big moraine, which is the beginning of the ascent to the Sebu La from the east, returned to Mome Samdong. Although there is a possible site near the moraine, it is obvious that a hut at Mome Samdong would be more useful, as it would also serve travellers coming over the Donkhya La and would be a possible base for trips over the Karpo La into the north-eastern corner of Sikkim, south of Pauhunri—a bit of country about which little is known. There are three grassy terraces in the angle made by the junction of the stream coming down from the Sebu La with the Lachung. Several rough stone huts used by yak-herds are scattered about on these maidans, and there is generally plenty of yak-dung available for fuel, though there is no wood. Any one of these maidans would be a suitable site for a hut, the middle one being possibly the nicest, and a place was selected on it where it is hoped the first hut will be built. The march between Yumthang, the last bungalow up the Lachung valley, and Mome Samdong, is particularly fine, and in May and June, when the rhododendrons are in full flower and the Alpine flowers coming into bloom, it is well worth while travelling up to Mome Samdong to see the flowers alone. Dr. Calder, of the Botanical Survey of India, sent one of his plant collectors with Mrs. Townend, and he brought back an interesting collection of some 600 specimens.

A most ambitious trip was that of Mr. Cooke and Mr. Schoberth to Kabru. The party, consisting of Messrs. Cooke and Schoberth, four high-altitude porters and coolies, left Darjeeling on the 10th October and arrived at Churung Chu on the 18th via the Singaila ridge. From here a path was made through rhododendron jungle to a camp by the Rathong Chu. Three and a half miles of exceptionally rough glacial moraine were crossed and the Base Camp fixed at the foot of the Kabru ice-fall at 15,800 feet. On the 2nd November, Camp 1 was fixed at 17,500 feet at the top of a smaller ice-fall descending from the Dome, from there the main ice-fall was entered by crossing over a shoulder buttressing the Dome. After twelve days the party reached the neve slopes above the Kabru ice-fall and there established Camp 5 at 21,000 feet inside a large crevasse and equipped it with stores and fuel sufficient for the whole party of six for twelve days as a retreat in the event of bad weather. High wind was experienced even inside the crevasse, particularly the first evening when with great difficulty the camp was moved farther into the crevasse. The highest bivouac was placed at 22,400 feet on the 16th and the following day an attempt was made, but lack of acclimatization and a somewhat cold wind put the summit out of reach. The next day Mr. Cooke and Mr. Schoberth, with an earlier start, climbed together to the rocks just below the summit at about 23,000 feet, where the latter was unfortunately obliged to turn back due to the height and cold hands. The plateau between the two summits was reached at about 2 p.m., and the summit about an hour later after traversing two intermediate high points on the ridge. The table-like formations of the hard snow on the plateau carved by the wind were a peculiar feature and gave an indication of very high wind velocities. The party descended next day to Camp 5 from where Mr. Cooke and Ang Tsering (II Sherpa) took a light bivouac with them and made an attempt on the Dome. After crossing a point on the ridge nearly level with the summit they climbed along it for f of a mile and then returned owing to lack of time, as there was still i| miles of sharp ridge of the summit with a dip of 500 feet between. They camped for the night at 20,000 feet and joined the rest of the party on the descent next day. The Base Camp was reached on the 23rd. On the 25th November Mr. Cooke and Ang Tsering crossed the glacier and ascended three miles of moraine to the gap on the Nepal border between Little Kabru and the Koktangpeak, and obtained a view of the Yalung glacier in Nepal. Darjeeling was reached on the 2nd December via Dzongri and Rinchenpong.

Mr. Auden went to Tehri Garhwal with Dr. D. G. Macdonald. They first ascended the Kedarnath glacier hoping to make an attempt on one of the Kedarnath peaks, but were held back by an ice-fall 500 feet in height, which stretched across the whole of the glacier. They then returned to Gangotri and ascended the Rudagaira nala which comes down from the Gangotri peaks. They turned back at a height of 19,000 feet on account of treacherous wind-slab snow which completely concealed a series of deep crevasses.

Mr. G. A. Hamilton, well known for his magnificent photographs of Sikkim, spent a couple of weeks taking photographs at Lhonak. The weather was so fine that he says he prayed for a little cloud to give the right artistic finish to his pictures, for day after day there was none.

There were a large number of parties out in the autumn. Mr. Sexton went up to Yumthang to study plants and collect seeds. Mr. Twynam and Mr. Dash crossed the Donkhya La, visiting the Gor- dama lake en route. Mr. Sassoon followed the same route a little later, and Mr. Duncan Pocock (now up for election to the Club) and two friends later still crossed the Donkhya La on the 25th October, which is exceptionally late for the pass to be open, but the crossing was made possible by the very fine autumn.

Mr. Fawcus, Dr. Jenkins, Mrs. Townend, Mr. Gardiner, Miss Atkins, and Miss Griffin (the two latter now up for election to the Club) went out to Dzongri and the Guicha La, leaving Darjeeling on the 27th September, travelling via Phalut and the ridge route to Dzongri and returning via Yoksam and Pamionchi.

Expeditions in 1936.—First and foremost comes the Mount Everest expedition. The finally chosen personnel of this expedition include a number of Himalayan Club members. The good wishes of all members of the Club will be with the expedition when they make their attack on Mount Everest. An appeal to all members of the Club was circulated, asking for subscriptions towards the funds of this expedition, but it is regretted to report that the response has been very poor.

A French Himalayan expedition will visit the Karakoram or Rakaposhi in the spring of 1936. They have not yet finally decided on their objective. A circular was sent to all members asking whether any member would like to accompany the expedition, but no decision on this point has yet been arrived at.

A German Himalayan expedition has received permission to attack Nanga Parbat again, but they have not yet decided whether to make the attack in 1936 or only to reconnoitre that year and make an assault on the summit in 1937.¹

If any members are proposing to carry out expeditions in the Central or Western Himalaya, and are looking for companions, I should be glad if they would write to me, as I may be in a position to put members in touch with each other Mrs. Townend, the Honorary Secretary of the Eastern Section, is often able to do the same for members proposing to visit the Eastern Himalaya.

Darjeeling Porters.—The register of Darjeeling porters, maintained by the Eastern Section, is already proving most useful. From it one can choose men specially suited for particular jobs. Two Darjeeling men, Palten and Da Tondrup, both of whom were on Nanga Parbat last year, were sent up to Kashmir to join Mr. Waller and Captain Hunt on their attempt on Peak 36 in the Karakoram, and both earned warm praise. Da Tondrup and two other men went to Garhwal with Mr. Auden; though one unfortunately fell ill, the other two did excellent work. There is great keenness amongst the porters to earn their Himalayan Club chit-books and a place in the register. Many men whose connexion with mountain-climbing in Sikkim goes back a number of years, came to see the Honorary Secretary, Eastern Section, in Darjeeling. Probably the oldest of these is Sunglu, who accompanied Dr. Kellas on many of his climbs, and who still has a good reputation as a Sirdar in Darjeeling.

 

The Honorary Secretary of the Eastern Section and the Honorary Secretary, Darjeeling (Mr. Kydd) are prepared to assist members in engaging Darjeeling porters. A schedule of conditions of service is being drawn up. It will include details of pay, clothing, equipment, and compensation for accidents to be provided by the employer.

Eastern Section.—There have been several successful dinners and lectures during the year. General Bruce was in Calcutta last Christmas (1934) and after visiting Darjeeling, where he gave a feast to his old friends among the Darjeeling porters, he returned to Calcutta; on the 9th January he dined with the Eastern Section at the Lawn House of the United Service Club and afterwards gave a most amusing and interesting talk on the subject of Himalayan porters. A few days later, on the 14th January, Dr. and Mrs. Visser dined with the Club and showed magnificent slides of their expedition in the Karakoram.

On the 27th March Mr. Ronald Kaulback and Mr. John Tracey passed through Calcutta, and Mr. Kaulback gave an amusing lecture on his previous year's expedition to Zayul with Captain Kingdon Ward, well illustrated with lantern slides. He and Mr. Tracey were on their way to Yunnan. They took with them three well-known Darjeeling porters, Lewa the sirdar, Nima Dorje the cook, and Nima Tondrup, the general utility man.

On the 9th September Mr. Waller gave the Eastern Section an excellent account of the attempt made by himself and Captain Hunt on Peak 36 in the Karakoram. He also had a good selection of slides, and a great deal of interest was aroused by the light tent, down sleeping-sack, and 'Li-Lo' rubber mattress, which he used at the higher camps and which were rigged up in the hall.

There has been an average of from twenty-five to thirty people at all these dinners, with about the same number coming in for the lecture afterwards.

Several well-known travellers and mountaineers have passed through Calcutta. Captain Kingdon Ward arrived on the 23^rd February and left again on the 25th on his way to the Naga hills. News has been received that after spending about two months there he went into Tibet and travelled about 1,500 miles in six months, at least half of it being through totally unexplored country. He has now gone back to the Naga hills.

The members of the Mount Everest reconnaissance party were in Calcutta towards the end of April and got back to Darjeeling again during the last half of September.

Mr. Vernay and Mr. Suydam Cutting spent a few days in Calcutta at the beginning of November on their way back from Lhasa. As they had not been able to collect specimens of animals in Tibet, they had taken to plant collecting and had an interesting collection, which is being taken to Kew.

Mr. d'Arcy Weatherbe, having two weeks to spare between arriving from Peking and catching a boat to Africa, visited Darjeeling and went out to Phalut to see the Sikkim Himalaya.

A party of French tourists, some of them keen mountaineers, travelling under the auspices of the French Alpine Club, were in Calcutta in January and got into touch with the Honorary Secretary, Eastern Section, through the French Trade Commissioner, with the result that a party was arranged at which they met members of the Eastern Section.

As usual the Eastern Section has been active in bringing members together and putting people who wish to climb or trek in touch with one another.

There are certain people to whom special thanks are due from the Club: Mr. van Manen, Secretary of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, who is always willing to put his time and wide knowledge at the disposal of travellers; Dr. S. N. Sen of the Meteorological Observatory, Alipore; members of the Survey of India and of the Geological Survey, who are always willing to help travellers and mountaineers to the best of their ability.

Equipment.—During the first half of the year the Club possessed 7 serviceable high-altitude light tents and 4 old tents. In June 1935, 2 light tents and 1 60-lb. porter's tent were purchased from Captain Gregory. In September, 2 second-hand 40-lb. tents were purchased from the Ordnance Department at a cost of Rs. 45/13. The total number of tents in hand at the end of the year is 12 possibly serviceable and several old ones. A number are still out on hire, and on return all tents will be reclassified if necessary.

In addition to the 3 tents mentioned above, the club purchased from Captain Gregory 3 ice-axes, 4 pairs of crampons, and Alpine rope, all in good condition, at a total cost of Rs. 200. Two ice-axes (second-hand) were also purchased in September at a cost of Rs. 16.

There has been a good demand for the use of the Club's equipment, and we were only just able to meet this during the September- October period. During the year, 27 tents were issued for periods varying from 1 to 5 months, 31 ice-axes were issued, and 30 pairs of crampons. This equipment was taken by parties visiting Sikkim, by the Visser, Waller, and Hunt expeditions in NW. India, and by Mr. Auden for his visit to Garhwal. There was a demand for wind-proof suits, mattresses, and gloves, which we were unable to meet.

Library.—A revised catalogue of the Club Library has been printed. The great deficiency which was felt in the original edition of the catalogue has been made up by adding the dates of publication of the books in the revised edition.

About thirty new books were purchased and added to the Library during the year, and the whole amount of £10 allotted for the purchase of books was again spent.¹

Eighty-three books were issued to members, out of which sixty- eight were sent outside Simla. Books have also been requisitioned for members from the U.S. Institution Library, Simla, and the Goedetic Branch Library, Dehra Dun.

Journal.—The Committee of the Club desire to congratulate Colonel Mason, the Honorary Editor, on the exceptionally fine number of the Journal issued in 1935.

I have many queries sent me as to when the Journal will be received in India. These I am unable to answer as I receive no intimation of their dispatch to India. It has also been stated that the Journal has been reviewed in India before members have received their copies. This is because the publishers send advance copies to certain newspapers out here for review, but not because the book is on sale before issue to members.²

The attention of members is drawn to the notice in the 1935 Journal stating that earlier volumes are now obtainable at a cheaper rate. All applications for journals should be addressed to the Clarendon Press, Oxford, or the Oxford University Press, Nicol Road, Bombay.

Miscellaneous.—The Honorary Treasurer has again had considerable difficulty in recovering subscriptions. Although subscriptions are payable annually on the 1st January in advance, numerous reminders have to be sent out. The Honorary Treasurer would be grateful if as many members as possible would pay their subscriptions by banker's order. Necessary forms can be obtained from him.

 

Many members proceed on leave and fail to notify me of change of address. Their Journal is not accepted at the old address and eventually is delivered to me. If possible I readdress to the India Office or High Commissioner for India, but in the case of mercantile members I am unable to send the Journal on. I should be grateful if all members would take particular care to inform me of any change of address, not only from the point of convenience to myself, but to save the Club postage charges on readdressing Journals.¹

The question has been raised this year of Honorary Membership. Certain members of the Committee consider that Honorary Membership should be of two kinds, i.e. the eminent person and the person who, though considerably interested in Himalayan life, &c., and able to help the Club in various ways, cannot afford the annual subscription. The matter will be discussed at the Annual General Meeting, and I should be grateful if any member having views on this subject would forward them to me.

Sir Herbert Emerson retires this year from the office of President, under Rule 34 of the Club. The Committee propose Sir Harry Haig in his place.

Major-General Twiss is proceeding to Burma in March and regretfully retires from the office of Vice-President after holding the position one year. The Committee propose Mr. Lloyd in his place.

Mr. J. B. Shearer has had to resign from Honorary Treasurer as he is proceeding to England, and Mr. Byrt is proposed in his place.

Rules for the Employment of High-altitude Porters

1. On receipt of written applications specifying the number of high-altitude porters required and the probable duration of their engagement, the Himalayan Club will do its best to assist members and others to engage porters. Applicants will be held to agree that the Club incurs no legal responsibility whatever towards either party to the contract.
2. The Himalayan Club is interested in keeping rates for porters to reasonable amounts, and it therefore stipulates that those who seek its assistance will not only undertake to see that porters are provided with full equipment but will also contract with them for suitable rates of pay, rations, and compensation.
3. Suitable rates of pay, rations, compensation, and scales of equipment will be laid down by the Eastern Section, Himalayan Club, in accordance with local conditions.

¹ It would also prevent disappointment and delay if members could keep me informed of the addresses to which they wish their Journals to be forwarded.—Ed.

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