KOLAHOI BY THE SOUTH FACE

JOHN HUNT

On our return from Peak 36 in the Karakoram in 1935 Brotherhood and I left Humpet in the Bat Kol and crossed into the East Liddar by the Gulol Gali, with the somewhat vague intention of attempting a new ascent of Kolahoi (17,799 feet). James Waller had spoken of one of its faces, but we had no knowledge of its appearance or history when we reached Pahlgam on the 9th July. A local coolie, who informed us that the mountain had been approached only by the glacier on its north side, and a nullah shown on the map as running south of Kolahoi into the West Liddar at Arau, gave us the hint that we should do well to approach from this direction if we were to make a new route.¹¹

It was thus in this nullah (the Armiun Nar), which joins the West Liddar seven miles above Pahlgam and along which there is a spring route to the upper Sind valley by way of Har Nag, that we camped on the night of the nth July, near the shepherd's huts of Armiun. The height is about 10,300 feet. Brotherhood, who had climbed the southern slopes of the nullah towards Korapathar to get a view of Kolahoi, returned to say that it was a complete 'cow peak'. This was disappointing, but, as we were to discover later, what he had actually seen was an insignificant rise in a ridge well to the south of Kolahoi.

Starting at 5 o'clock next morning and accompanied by our Darjeeling porter, Pal ten, with our sleeping-bags, we ascended from the valley in a northern direction, up steep grass, and later over a succession of dirty snow-beds and outcrops of rock, with no more encouraging view than that seen by Brotherhood the day before. On reaching this, however, at 8.30 a.m., we were somewhat taken aback to find that Kolahoi itself was some two and a half miles to the north, partly masked by an intervening summit, and separated from us by another ridge. The height of our view-point must have been about 15,500 feet.² We were on a ridge, or rather on the west edge of a plateau drained by a glacier (the Musa-Sab-in-Qabr) towards the Armiun Nar. The precipices on our left fell into a narrow cirque (Katar Nag) drained by a stream (the Girwar Nar) towards Arau, in the West Liddar. At this early hour few monsoon clouds were about and a fine view was obtained of Nanga Parbat.

Kolahoi Routes 1912 & 1935

Keeping to the west of the plateau, we made northwards for the ridge which we had to cross, aiming for a col between two summits (the Buttress Peak and Burdalau). We reached the col at 10.45 ^a-^m-₅ rested for food, and reviewed the situation. A mile to the north, across the head of the main Kolahoi glacier, was Kolahoi, the south face of which appeared to offer us rather more than we had expected. Although, as stated above, the previous route to the summit was not known at the time, we were right in assuming that it lay along the east ridge, quite apparently, when seen from this side, the line of least resistance.

(Photo: Mason ,1912)

1. Kolahoi from the east

(Photo: Hunt ,1935)

2. The south face of Kolahoi

3. On the south face of Kolahoi

4. Descending by the east ridge, Kolahoi

Anticipating a bivouac, for it was now 11.30, we left our sleeping- bags and sacks on the col, sent Palten down to Armiun, and, crossing the glacier, made for a prominent rib in the south face, which is continuous until just below the summit and forms the western border of a great snow couloir in the centre of the face.

For some 500 feet the rocks of this rib are broken, set at a high angle, and demand care. Knowing each other's capabilities we started unroped, keeping close together to minimize the danger of loose rock. The quality of the rock gradually improved as we rose. At about 1,000 feet above the glacier Brotherhood, who was leading, found himself in difficulties on a smooth, holdless slab to the right of the crest, and had to make an awkward descent into the couloir to his right. Forewarned, I was able to make a somewhat sensational advance on the crest of the rib, but it was clearly a hint that we should rope. This was effected on a small patch of snow 100 feet higher; in case of a forced descent we were using 200 feet of line.

There was good firm rock above this, mostly to the west of the rib, by which we reached a prominent band of snow which traverses the whole face from the south-west ridge and, cutting the rib, joins the great couloir. Above it 200 feet of vertical rock, observed from below as an obvious obstacle, barred direct progress by the rib. We therefore made a slight upward traverse along the snow band to the west to a point where excellent rock, at a steep but easier angle, could be gained. We reached this rock with some difficulty by bestriding a large block projecting into the band.

Anxious glances were cast from time to time at the weather. Huge monsoon clouds had been working up towards the mountain for some time, and all views were now obscured. We made good progress, however, and were able to rejoin the rib immediately above the impassable vertical section. Shortly afterwards we reached the large steep snow slope below the summit, and, kicking steps in good firm snow, joined the east ridge at exactly the point where it rises to the summit cone.

It was now half-past two. We had taken hours for the ascent from the glacier, a fair testimony to steady progress. The only view accorded us was down the terrific north face to the north glacier below and a very limited glimpse along the east ridge through the mists. But it was this east ridge which we favoured for the descent. Our route upwards was singularly deficient in belays for roping down, and having ascended 7,500 feet from our camp in the Armiun Nar, we were in no mood to descend it without using the double rope. We took infinite care on this easy ridge in view of our weariness. At about half its length a subsidiary rib was seen running direct to the glacier down the south face, and by this we descended. We reached the glacier in 3 ½ hours at 5.45 p.m., a reflection not on the difficulties, but on our, and, I fear, particularly my, state of exhaustion.

We reached the col soon after 6 o'clock. Here nourishment revived us, all thoughts of a high bivouac were put aside, and we raced down to Armiun, 5,000 feet below, in less than 2 hours, arriving at 8 p.m.

Both the climb, which presents no outstanding difficulties, and the route by which we approached the mountain can be recommended. The route by the Armiun Nar is short and very attractive. I think, however, that most parties intending to climb the peak from this south side will be wise to make a bivouac at or near the col by which we reached the Kolahoi glacier. An ascent of 7,500 feet and a descent of the same amount, with a horizontal distance of five miles each way, is a big undertaking for one day. Had we not been in good training after our Karakoram climb, we should not have managed it ourselves.

Note by the Editor

The route taken by Dr. Ernest Neve and myself, as well as that taken by Hunt and Brotherhood, have been shown on the accompanying illustrations, which are somewhat foreshortened. A brief account of the first ascent, written by Dr. Neve, appeared in the Alpine Journal, vol. xxvi, p. 407. The rock is a very stable trap and affords good rock practice, easily accessible from Pahlgam these days. The Editor would be glad to know whether any other ascents of Kolahoi have been made between 1912 and 1935, and, if so, by what route. See also Himalayan Journal, vol. vi, pp. 132, 133, for Lieut. James Waller's ascent of the Buttress Peak and additional notes.

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