EXPEDITIONS

A JOURNEY TO BHUTAN

WE have received a brief account of two interesting journeys performed by Mr. and Mrs. F. Williamson, and Messrs. G. Sherriff and F. Ludlow, in Bhutan and Tibet. Williamson travelled on duty in his capacity as Political Officer in Sikkim; Sherriff and Ludlow were bent on natural history. The two latter left Gangtok (Survey of India map 78 A) for the Ha valley in western Bhutan on the 5th May 1933. Deep snow on the Natu La forced them to halt at Ghangu for a week and Yatang was not reached till the 14th. A few days were spent in the Chumbi valley, after which they crossed the Ma-Sang- Kyung-Du range (78 E) by the Kyu La and Ha La, and proceeded in a leisurely manner to Ha Dzong, where Mr. and Mrs. Williamson and Raja S. T. Dorje joined them on the 15th June.

The combined party now proceeded eastwards to Bumtang, the summer residence of H.H. the Maharaja of Bhutan. They travelled via Paro, Trashi Cho Dzong, Punaka, Wang-du-potrang (78 E) and Trongsa (78 I), and arrived at Bumtang on the 11th July. The route outlined above is one of the main highways of Bhutan, linking up the country from east to west, and tapping the most important centres. The 'grain^’ of the country is from north to south, owing to the high rainfall and consequent denudation, so that this east-west route traverses the watersheds of many Himalayan rivers flowing from north to south. On arrival at Bumtang the party split up, Sherriff and Ludlow continuing eastwards to Trashiyangsi.

During their stay in Bhutan the travellers met with a kindly welcome wherever they went. No trouble was deemed too great to ensure their comfort. At every stage a camp was prepared for their reception. Transport and supplies were immediately forthcoming. At times, even roads appear to have been freshly cut through impenetrable jungle to facilitate their progress. We have no doubt that Williamson, Sherriff, and Ludlow will therefore long cherish the happiest memories of their visit to Bhutan, and of the very genuine hospitality they received at the hands of H.H. the Maharaja and all his subjects.

On leaving Bumtang, Williamson and his party ascended the Chamka Chu northwards to the difficult glacier pass, Mon-La-Kar- Chung La (17,442 feet, 77 L), on the Great Himalayan range, and at the boundary between Bhutan and Tibet. From its summit there is a magnificent view of the Kulha Kangri massif, which rises to over 24,000 feet some twelve miles to the north.

Meanwhile Sherriff and. Ludlow left Bumtang on the 18th July, and, crossing the Rudo (Rudong) La, 12,600 feet, reached Lhuntse Dzong (incorrectly spelt Lingtse Dzong on map 78 M) on the 28th. From Lhuntse they went eastwards over the Donga La to Trashi- yangsi Dzong, whence they penetrated northwards into unexplored territory. Ascending the Trashiyangsi Chu valley they reached Lao in three stages (about 23 miles). At this uninhabited and uncultivated stage they left the main stream and branched off in an easterly direction to Shingbe, at the foot of the Me La. From the summit of this pass (about 15,000 feet), which is evidently situated south of the Great Himalayan axis, they found themselves overlooking a valley with many hanging glaciers at its head, drained by a river which appeared to flow south-eastward into the Nyam-Jang Chu. In the neighbourhood of the Me La they found a rich alpine flora, and a timely break in the monsoon enabled them to collect a number of rare and beautiful plants.

From the Me La, Sherriff and Ludlow retraced their steps to Tobrang (two stages north of Trashiyangsi), and then crossed the Donga range into the Khoma Chu valley by the Pang La. It would appear that this pass is seldom used even by local inhabitants, for the path for several miles had to be cut through dense rhododendron forest before its passage could be effected. On reaching Sawang in the Khoma Chu valley, they joined the route followed by Claude White in 1906.³⁰

Ascending the valley, they reached Narim Thang on the 18th August and halted there for ten days. They then crossed the Kang La and Bod La (16,290 feet)³¹ into Tibet, reaching Lhakhang Dzong (77 P) by the Lhobrak or Kuru Chu, on the 1st September. Still following White's route, they ascended the Kuru gorge to Towa Dzong and Lhalung. At Monda they abandoned White's route and broke new ground by crossing the Monda La to To monastery on the eastern shore of Pomo Chang-Thang Tso. From To they crossed the Ling La at the head of the Lingbe Chu, followed this valley down to Ling, and traced Williamson's footsteps along the western shore of the Yamdrok Tso to Nangkartse Dzong. Then they turned westwards to Gyantse and returned to India by the Gyantse-Phari road to Kalimpong, which was reached on the 7th October.

Mr. Ludlow informs me that the zones of vegetation given by Kingdon Ward (.Himalayan Journal, vol. i, p. 55) for the Mishmi Hills are generally applicable to Bhutan. The real Conifer belt does not start until about 8,000 feet, although Pinus longifolia occurs, of course, a good deal lower. Between 8,000 and 10,000 feet there are Tsuga Brunnoniana and Larix Griffithii; and between 10,000 and 12,000 feet there are large forests of Abies Webbiana. Alpines and rhododendron scrub occur between 12,000 and 13,500 feet.

Upper Trashiyangsi valley from Lao showing dense forest at 9-10,000 feet

Photos G. Sherriff

View towards the Me La. Junction of the Board-Leafed and Conifer Forest at about 10,500 feet in the Lao Valley

Khulu Kangri, from the northern shore of the Pomo Tso

Photo G. Sherriff

Near the Tree limit (12,500 -13,000 feet), a mile south-west of the MeLa

pANORAMA from north to south-south- east from Me La, Bhutan

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