MOUNTAINEERING IN THE KASHMIR HIMALAYA

1. THE GLACIER VALLEY OF THAJIWAS
2. CLIMBING AND EXPLORATION INT HEBOD GUMBAR NAR
3. training a kashmiri to climb

 

 

THE following remarks with regard to climbing in the 'Valley of the Glaciers' are made in the hope that they may be of use to Members of the Club intending to mountaineer in that locality.¹ References are to the Survey of India one-inch maps 43 N/7 and 43 N/8.

Captain Johnstone, Mr. J. Harrison, and myself, all of the 8th Punjab Regiment, arrived at Thajiwas camping-ground in the second week of June 1933, and were joined later by Major R. V. M. Garry, r.a. We spent slightly over a month in the 'Valley of the Glaciers', during which time we carried out several ascents and various glacier expeditions. The weather, though occasionally unfavourable, was on the whole good.

Snow. During the period of our stay we never encountered snow which appeared liable to avalanche, nor were any extensive avalanches seen or heard. The snow was, almost without exception, in perfect climbing condition, the steepest snow slopes being easily and safely traversed without step-cutting or the use of crampons.

Glaciers. All the glaciers in the valley are of the 'hanging' variety. The glacier nearest to Thajiwas was very easily ascended. The next two glaciers up the valley, though steep, are not difficult in their lower sections, but both are intricate and much crevassed higher up, though their uppermost sections are again quite easy. In every case these glaciers should be tackled by their western edges, as difficulties greatly increase towards their eastern flanks. They are composed of a series of convex slopes separated by narrow shelves, with the result that when on them one's view upward is extremely restricted, and falling blocks of ice are apt to appear quite suddenly at close range. These, in the afternoon, constitute a distinct danger, as when descending, the climber has his back to the falling ice and the blocks come down almost silently. In many places the ice descends by definite gullies, which can be avoided or quickly crossed. Glacier conditions became rapidly more difficult as the snow melted, and by the end of June a good deal of step-cutting became necessary. These glaciers have no flattish sections such as one often meets in the Alps, and consequently their passage; is slow. Any serious ascent by the glaciers must therefore be preceded by an overnight bivouac on the rocks at their foot.

 

Rock. The rock in this valley is on the whole very good, affording frequent and firm holds. The summit ridges are very broken and disappointingly easy. No doubt good rock-climbing could be found, but in our case time was always an object, and consequently we used the slopes of n6v6 as far as was possible. Ganj (Map 43 N/7) particularly affords interesting rock climbing, but it can easily be ascended from the col at the head of the glacier, in which case the final rock climb is short and easy. Peak 15,528 (Map 43 N/8) at the south-east end of the valley is well worth a climb, part of its eastern arete being quite difficult. It is best attacked by its eastern flank, the glacier on its west being very intricate in its lower section. In our opinion, the most interesting problem which the valley provides is the ascent of Peak 15,928 (Map 43 N/7). It is quite impracticable from the glacier to the north of it, its northern face being very steep and swept by falling stones and ice. Its north-west arete is impossible from the col at the top of the eastern fork of the north glacier. It appears to be practicable from the glacier to the south of it. This glacier is, however, the most difficult in the valley and could only be ascended under very favourable conditions.

To sum up, the 'Valley of the Glaciers' is by no means a cragsman's paradise, but it affords some varied and arduous climbing. For those who are fond of snow- and ice-work, it is an excellent playground. If the weather of this year can be taken as a criterion, I would suggest that climbers should commence operations early in June and finish by the first week of July, by which time not only is the weather deteriorating, but the glacier difficulties are increasing. Quite apart from the pleasure of climbing, this locality provides the most glorious and varied scenery. We were also greatly and agreeably surprised at the absence of glare on the snow, even on brilliantly fine days. On no occasion did it punish us to anything like the same extent which it does in the Alps. No advice from local people as to weather or routes is obtainable.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

Mr. J. Harrison of the 8th Punjab Regiment and myself left Bltal on the14th July with camp equipment and stores sufficient for a week, and with four ponies, five coolies, and onebearer. We camped fort that on the left bank of the Bod Gumbar Nar, at it mouth, after scrambling round a rocky shoulder and crossing by a snow- bridge; the ponies had to cross two miles lower downstream.

On the 15th we ascended the left bank of the Bod Gumbar over broken snow-bridges and shale slopes, crossing about two miles upstream at a ford about 2 feet deep about Tengepathar, and opposite the mouth of the Kibla Nar; we then proceeded up the right bank for another two miles, where the ponies again had to ford the stream to reach a small mound on the left bank a further mile upstream, which we on foot had reached by a rather doubtful- looking snow-bridge. From this camp site (Camp 2), which was covered with a great variety of wild flowers, we had a magnificent view up the nullah for a mile; three hanging glaciers on the right bank faced us and towered up for 3,000 feet with very broken ice- falls, but, as far as we could see, there were smooth snow surfaces above these. Rain in the afternoon prevented more than a short reconnaissance to the farther glacier moraine (D).

On the 16th, being unable to climb owing to rain and mist, we set off up the main nullah for a mile and a half. We reached a point where it divides, a western stream coming from a fine glacier (B) set in an amphitheatre of hills. A fairly easy passage up it appeared along its left bank (northerly). This seemed to be the old track to Bod Kulan Ganj marked on the map, but now it is never used by the locals, so we were informed.

Overlooking the junction of the streams towered two more glaciers, their snouts at least 3,000 feet above us, and behind them an extensive snowfield with Point 18,098 set in its midst. This peak is visible from Tengepathar.

We followed the eastern branch, which narrows considerably and turns very sharply from the line of the main nullah. After climbing 1,500 feet over what looked like slag heaps, we discovered we were on a large glacier of black ice (G) and moraine. Keeping along the left bank for another mile and a half, we reached the first visible ice-wall, which we turned by climbing about 600 feet up its easy shale and snow slopes. From there onwards the going was very easy up gentle snow slopes, the mist lifting at intervals to show two further ice- walls, one sheer for at least 400 feet. The farthest visible col at the head of the main glacier appeared to be distant another mile. The left bank of the glacier was bounded by a very steep icy ridge with snow cornices, this ridge curving round and appearing to contain a left tributary glacier. A possible route to the snowfield by Point 18,098 appeared to lead from the top of the first ice-wall. We left the glacier at 3 p.m., after ascending it for a mile.

Rain fell during the night. The weather was still doubtful on the 17th. On this day we explored the Kibla Nar, which enters the Bod Gumbar about two miles below our camp, working up its left bank above a fine waterfall and then over snow-bridges for two miles, as far as the foot of a rock ridge over which the stream falls. The map is very inaccurate in this area and we noted the snout of a hanging glacier above us on the left bank of the nullah.

A fairly easy but steep grassy approach up the ridge on the left bank enabled us to round the shoulder of the nullah, which here almost describes a semicircle. A snow col is visible across the stream, and is said to lie at the head of the Ranga Nala and to be used occasionally by locals. The valley from here was a beautiful sight, covered with patches of snow and having a blue half-frozen lake at our feet, while at its head lay a magnificent ice-wall towering up 1,000 feet above the valley.

We kept above the left bank till we reached the col at the head. We then were able to turn the ice-wall by climbing along the easy snow and shale slopes of the arete from the col, and so reached the smooth upper surface of the glacier. The ground here is particularly well shown on the one-inch map (43 N/7). Walking up the glacier for another mile, we found that it descended from a col still a mile farther away. The glacier (F), which at its base is at least a 1,000 yards across, is bounded on either side by the steep ridges of the Sirbal peaks. These, though only 1,000 feet above it, appeared to be difficult to ascend from the glacier surface, for the rock dips almost vertically and the snow slopes run up to cornices on the ridges at an average angle of 70 degrees. The ridge on the right bank of the glacier seemed to be the more accessible of the two. Owing to mist and rain, Point 17,178, the highest of the Sirbals, was not visible from the glacier, nor was it possible to identify any points for certain in or beyond the Sind valley. We noted, however, that the path leading down from the col to the Kokurun Nar appeared to be very steep, though passable for lightly laden coolies. Ponies could undoubtedly reach the foot of the rock ridge (marked Falls on the sketch-map). This glacier is one of the finest visible from the hills on either side of the Thajiwas valley, and by the Kibla Nar can be reached easily in two days from Baltal.

The 18th dawned fine at last, and we left Camp 2 at 5.30 a.m. and started up the western glacier of the Gumbar cirque by the snow gully and later by a rib of rock leading up its left edge. The snow was in good condition and the climb of 2,500 feet at an average slope of 40 degrees possible for lightly laden coolies. Arrived above the ice-fall, we made our way up the smooth snow surfaces of the glacier for about a mile and a half, aiming for a rock peak at its head which appeared to command it. About 300 feet below the crest, the snow lay at an angle of about 60 degrees, so we roped and climbed half the distance before traversing to a rock sentinel from which there was an easy approach to the summit over rather friable rock with a nearly vertical dip. We estimated the height of this peak (Pk) to be about 16,400 feet. It appeared to be the culminating point of three ridges and commanded a magnificent view over three large glaciers. The glacier (D) up which we had climbed was bounded on its right side by a ridge on which we identified Peak 17,178, the highest of the Sirbals. This peak looked very difficult to climb from the glacier, owing to the steep slopes and the vertical dip of its strata. On the farther side of the col, at the head of which we were, flowed another glacier (A), curving round towards the north-west, and about two miles long, while 2,000 feet below us was the upper smooth surface of Glacier ^SB'. This last flows from a col to which a possible route appeared, which may be that shown on the one-inch map leading to Bod Kulan Ganj; though, since it must traverse a rock ridge of over 17,000 feet, the local people do not recognize it as feasible. Such a route appears certainly to offer the easiest approach to the ice-field on which lies Point 18,098, and could most easily be reached by the track up glacier 'B' mentioned already as seen by us on the 16th. Point 17,135 lies at the head of this glacier.

The peak we were on offered a good view of the Gumbar Nar just below our camp, and viewed from there, appears to be lower than the rock towering over the camp in this direction. We are of opinion that the site of Camp 2 in fine weather would afford ten days' interesting climbing and exploration; it would be necessary to make bivouacs to reach the higher peaks and to carry up fuel. The scenery and flowers in this locality are difficult to better anywhere in Kashmir.

On the 19th we went about three miles up the Lokut Gumbar Nar opposite the Bod Gumbar Nar, mostly on snow-bridges. From this nullah appears a possible approach to Amarnath peak, by turning the glacier at its head by its left bank and then traversing along and up the snow slope, which on its south-east side seems almost to reach to the peak. The north-west side, or along the arete, appears impracticable. We returned to Baltal on the evening of the 19th July.²⁸

In conclusion, we consider that the best time of year for such an expedition as suggested would be in June, owing to the fact that the glaciers have then more snow on them, the weather is more settled, and the snow-bridges more numerous, thus making travel up the main nullahs considerably easier. Before June there is said to be danger from avalanches.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

The following notes may interest those who may imagine that the climbing of small peaks in Kashmir is an expensive and difficult occupation. I joined my parents at the end of July 1933 and scrambled about for a month from Sonamarg in the Sind valley, over the Basmai pass to Kolahoi, then by Arau, in the Lidar valley to Armiun, south of the Buttress peak of Kolahoi, and on to Pahl- gam. There is, of course, nothing new about the route, but as I was unable to find a friend to climb with me, I decided to try and train my tiffin coolie, Abdulla Mir of Sopor, a willing youth of twenty-one, who had never been high before.

We started by making two attempts on Peak 15,928 (Map 43 N/7),²⁹ on the watershed between the Basmai and Thajiwas nullahs, and reached a point within 300 feet of the summit; we were able to see that the finish of this route appeared to be quite easy. By the end of the second climb here Abdulla was becoming quite useful with rope and axe, while throughout he was always extremely surefooted. After crossing the Basmai Gali we dropped into the Kohaloi valley and crossed the Hoksar Gali (14,188 feet), climbing the 15,000- foot peak to the west of this pass. I now felt confident about attempting something a little bigger.

 

W. H. Johnson in the season 1855-6, but visited also by Mr. Douglas in 1857. They probably reached it from the Kokurun Nar. It is an uninteresting and very tiring ascent of 5,500 feet direct from the Sind valley from opposite the village of Saribal. Dr. Neve remarks that the highest of the Sirbal peaks, 17,178 feet, would make a most interesting climb from the Kokurun Nar.

The existing map of the country to the north-east of Armarnath peak is not good and needs revision. Dr. Neve believes that the peak can best be approached by the Kainpathar Nar, just west of the summit of the Zoji La. Mr. W. H. Johnson's station at 16,427 feet, set up and observed from in 1856, lies on the watershed between the Amarnath Nar and the Kainpathar Nar, half a mile west of the highest peak, 17,290 feet. My own station, made in 1911 at 15,815 feet, is half a mile west of Johnson's, and my route was from the Kuthpathar Nar, a tributary of the Panjtarni Nala. We had some trouble in getting the theodolite up the last part of the climb. Johnson's station is accessible from the ridge to the east of my route, but I very much doubt whether Amarnath peak itself, at 17,290 feet, is accessible from the south.—Ed.

We camped at Armiun for ten days in vile weather. Towards the end of that time it cleared; and after a four-hours' walk over the Korapathar pass to Pahlgam to collect three coolies, I took a light camp to the foot of the south glacier of the Kolahoi massif, which descends from between the Buttress peak and Bur Dalau (Dr. Neve's 'South Peak' of Kolahoi) We camped for two nights on a good platform at 13,200 feet, having sent the coolies back to Armiun.

On the 1st September, starting up the glacier at dawn, we climbed the Buttress peak (16,785 feet) without difficulty by 10.30 a.m. and were back again at the camp by half-past one. An hour later a heavy thunderstorm and blizzard came on, and the whole mountain was covered during the next twelve hours under a foot of new snow. Throughout the climb Abdulla carried a rucksack and ice-axe, and would have out-distanced me anywhere had we not been roped. His 'head' is excellent and height had no effect upon him. During the climb we fed mostly on sugar, with one mutton and bread meal at 6 a.m. When very tired, six lumps of sugar soaked in weak whisky proved a very good meal and carried us on for at least two hours. The expenses of such a climb are negligible—about seven rupees, excluding climbing equipment. It is worth mentioning that the weather throughout the trip was very bad; without doubt June is the best month for climbing in this region.

⇑ Top